Chris, the top and lower links on the 3pt need to float so the mower follows the ground. It doesn't matter that it hangs down at the back when you lift it. It rides on the four wheels of the deck, not the level of the tractor. That was the purpose of the slots on the back rails of your green mower, so it could float.
Don't worry how level it is when you pick it up - that pivoting top link allows the rear to float - it should sag down so the rear can rise and fall with the terrain independent of the tractor - see your owners manual !
Level it by adjusting your top link in or out. The worst thing you can do is backup with the mower down, that will bend those band straps and also bend the yoke shafts on your wheels. Pick it up a little when backing up then set it down and go forward.
The PU-38 space modulator is definitely out of sync with the flux capacitor! If you adjust the lateral incandescent upper support I beam and add some cavitation fluid in all the zerk fittings you’ll find the warp core will come into phase and you can achieve geo syncretism on the induction drive system! Also be careful of antidisestablishmentarianism as that can lead to all kinds of incomprehensibilities in the honorificabilitudinitatibus! And remember sometimes life kinda gets out of control…I think…could you pass me that ashtray…I like salad…baked potato…just had a nice salad!… I don’t know…all I can say is have a lot of guns!……hope that helps!
Made in Selma Alabama. Bush hog is a great American made product. They use to make a peanut picker called a lilliston everyone had them. We have a rotary mower that's a bush hog. Im 41 and it was on the farm when I was a kid and still use it to cut along fence lines. The blades are different they are thick not sharp and will plow through anything. To be honest I don't think other than grease we ever did anything to the mower. This will last a lifetime
I have done a lot of hydro seeding, straw blowing, disk crimp straw in place, clue straw in place, blow in pine needles. Hydro in fertilizer. Punch roll slopes with winch truck and roller. Worked two years for a land restoration erosion company. Lot of work reclamation of old open pit mines etc. New and old work of freeway roadsides. Pipe line put in through mountains have to replace habitat.
I have never used one of those but it sure looks to me like something at the top there should have some movement to compensate for terrain...those metal bars were bending like a rubber band..
Hey Chris, none of those are "finish" mowers. They are brush cutters. Some call them slitters or rotary cutters. But they all have an articulated blade arm to allow for hitting hard matter without breaking the blade. Set up should always have the front lower than the rear, by design. They do make a 'finish' mower that runs 3 pt but that ain't one.
Hey letsdig18! Awesome new mower! Now you can come up here to Canada and do my lawn with it! I'll supply beer while your mowing but after finishing you gotta buy your own! Ride ride ride!
PLEASE CONSIDER getting a skidsteer sod cutter! You can make money on preserved sod, reuse, charge for sod preservation and stop struggling with thankless dozing, grading, loading and hauling scrambled sod.
Here's an old farming trick that has worked for me in the past replace the top link with a chain. The machine is designed to be dragged on its wheels, the top link is only meant for transporting to and from the job and turning at the end of the row. The chain needs to be long enough so that when the machine is raised as far as it will go, the back of the mower is about 10-12 inch off the ground, and when the machine is lowered allow it to " float" over the ground. (you may need to dis-engage the P.T.O. to protect the shaft knuckles when raising the machine). The green mower (the red mower will bend to over time) frame is bent because as the tractor goes over a dip the weight of the tractor is transferred through the top link onto the back of the mower. The mower wants to rotate around the bottom link arms but the top link stops it so it ends up bending the A-frame on the mower which is weaker than the top link.
the center antiscaple wheel was an add on accessory on my woods. Probably the same with Bush hog. See if the holes are already tnere. Definitely makes a big difference.
It seems that at mowers end the top link can be put on three different bolts of different heighs and it is now set to middle one. Put that to the lowest bolt and that will fix your problem.
Holy crap that hydroseeding must seem like it takes forever! It sure seems like they would have some kind if pull behind sprayer for large areas like that.
You are going to hate that new mower. I had a Land pride built just like what you have there. The gauge wheels are too narrow and if you get on any contours the mower scalps and plows sod. I ended up bolting gauge wheels on the two sides which helped but then you can't mow close to anything.
With the right equipment maintaining it that RC airfield should be good for many years, nice job there guys. I guess you get what you pay for and right there is a prime example with the green mower. Be a handy back up though. Great video bro. Stay safe up your way
Implements will do that when you hooked up to a CAT 2 quick hitch hole pattern. Play with where your top link is mounted, it needs to be pinned higher to get the geometry right and it will pick up flat. You might have to remove the black bracket all together if your lower links will slide in where the brackets mount. I know it sounds confusing but I finally figured that out when we built a 3-point hook up for a forklift mast. If you don’t have the quick hitch on, when you raise it, it will almost keep the back end on the ground. We get by with a hydraulic top link if I don’t have the quick hitch on the tractor though and that does fine, you just have to be mindful when raising it to also suck in your top link so you don’t bind up the PTO... Trust me.. lol
I got one of those green estate mowers, haven't had a problem in 12 years. Not sure why he wants to raise them up so high, but that's what got the drive shaft.
I think it's the tractor three point hitch system. There is an option where the tractor holds the arm down. It is supposed to be used only for grading or plowing. I have a New Holland with the option.
Can the tractor side connections be adjusted to make things better? It seems this unit is just barely adjustable enough to be right which seems odd for such a high quality name brand.
Okay the start shows what looks like a set-up for an RC flying group but what please is all the other grass as far as you can see for? Good quad copter shots. Thanks again.
Gonna take a lot of seed...lol We have several Bush Hog brand rotary cutters, I wish we would have bought them from the beginning. Wasted a lot of money on the cheap stuff. Thanks for the video.
on mine I take those pins out and it lets the front flex and the pins are for transport on mine anyway that allows the front and back to follow contour with the wheels
Chris, That runway was awesome! Hopefully only light rain till the grass comes in. Nice new mower. Just remember, your tractor and mower are not Volvo 250s! Lol
Why don't you buy a flail mower !? Been the best mower I've ever had great for the type of mowing you do ! You don't have to pick up sticks,it will handle heavy grass and do a very good job with light grass , it mulches everything and it you mow wet grass without it clumping up!
I'm at a loss as to why you could not just adjust the top link. I have almost the same mower and just set the top link so that I can lift the deck entirely but it has enough slack to allow for following the terrain freely with all 4 wheels always on the ground.
Your drone was the first flight on that runway, the RC field I fly at has a blacktop runway and a grass runway that lets say could definitely need your help. Lol
Nice work Chris! Looks awesome 👍👍👍👍 Also, if you take your top link in a bit, it should bring the back level. As least that what does it on my Deere and a 272 mower.
I've frequently found that the cheap design of things these days requires immediate personal upgrading. From hose reels to commercial lawn mower components its all made to fail, but a bit of alteration and suddenly it lasts much longer. Wear parts that don't have bearings or grease points, supports made too flimsy, low grade bolts that should be high grade. It goes on and on.
The last gang of hyroseeders i had on a site would of coated the tarmac as well they were that useless! I was sent out with a brush to clean of a load crash barriers and concrete head walls and lets just say they didn't get any more sections on the project
You want the back to sag some.. that way when you drop it the mower is able to float across un even ground. If you don't like that than get a hydraulic top link.
Chris, did you say that mower was 4 grand? They've gone up a lot! I bought a new TM6, circa 1983, for 1500. It's still going strong. In fact, I'm taking a break from using it right now.
I bought the (Bush Hog brand) TM6 circa 1983. It's an older, 6' version, of what Chris just bought. It's still going strong. In fact, I'm taking a break from using it right now!
Chris, do those lower arm stems have an angle to them? I'm wondering if they do, you could flip them over to increase your lift height and get the tail wheels up off the ground better.
If it has Chinese steel in the old mower , the reason it bends is there is no carbon in the steel , i bought a log splitter that was Chinese built and it stripped the bolts and bent frame while i was working it
That is a Slasher...not a Mower. The two are NOT the same. Either DO need to be level and don't let anybody tell you different. I've spent years using both in Aussie.
Its not that simple. When it is on the ground you set top link to be straight on the ground but when you lift the mower, the mower is tilted to the back end. The problem is lrobably, the hitch point on a mower should be closer to the mower itself or top link at the traczor side should be at the lowest hole..
I don't understand why the lifted position matters so much. Surely the only position that matters is where it sits when it's down in the cutting position?
Send that old mower to Andrew Camarata and he'll weld some old '85 Volkswagen rabbit frame pieces on there and Bam! Good as new.
Andrew is amazing.
Andrew does some pretty ingenious things
Chris, the top and lower links on the 3pt need to float so the mower follows the ground. It doesn't matter that it hangs down at the back when you lift it. It rides on the four wheels of the deck, not the level of the tractor. That was the purpose of the slots on the back rails of your green mower, so it could float.
Don't worry how level it is when you pick it up - that pivoting top link allows the rear to float - it should sag down so the rear can rise and fall with the terrain independent of the tractor - see your owners manual !
I sometimes mow with the top link Unhooked when mowing.
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Top link on the tractor side needs to come down a hole if possible. That will bring the back end up when lifted.
As a last resort you can sometimes check a manual.
Gotta keep that top link long so the mower can follow the contour of the land. It doest need to be level when it’s lifted up.
Level it by adjusting your top link in or out. The worst thing you can do is backup with the mower down, that will bend those band straps and also bend the yoke shafts on your wheels. Pick it up a little when backing up then set it down and go forward.
The PU-38 space modulator is definitely out of sync with the flux capacitor! If you adjust the lateral incandescent upper support I beam and add some cavitation fluid in all the zerk fittings you’ll find the warp core will come into phase and you can achieve geo syncretism on the induction drive system! Also be careful of antidisestablishmentarianism as that can lead to all kinds of incomprehensibilities in the honorificabilitudinitatibus! And remember sometimes life kinda gets out of control…I think…could you pass me that ashtray…I like salad…baked potato…just had a nice salad!… I don’t know…all I can say is have a lot of guns!……hope that helps!
Made in Selma Alabama. Bush hog is a great American made product. They use to make a peanut picker called a lilliston everyone had them. We have a rotary mower that's a bush hog. Im 41 and it was on the farm when I was a kid and still use it to cut along fence lines. The blades are different they are thick not sharp and will plow through anything. To be honest I don't think other than grease we ever did anything to the mower. This will last a lifetime
I have done a lot of hydro seeding, straw blowing, disk crimp straw in place, clue straw in place, blow in pine needles. Hydro in fertilizer. Punch roll slopes with winch truck and roller. Worked two years for a land restoration erosion company. Lot of work reclamation of old open pit mines etc. New and old work of freeway roadsides. Pipe line put in through mountains have to replace habitat.
It look to me like your 3 point hitch is not set to float, that would bend the mower hitch. The new mower hitch is flexing way too much
I have never used one of those but it sure looks to me like something at the top there should have some movement to compensate for terrain...those metal bars were bending like a rubber band..
Hey Chris, none of those are "finish" mowers. They are brush cutters. Some call them slitters or rotary cutters. But they all have an articulated blade arm to allow for hitting hard matter without breaking the blade. Set up should always have the front lower than the rear, by design. They do make a 'finish' mower that runs 3 pt but that ain't one.
Hey letsdig18! Awesome new mower! Now you can come up here to Canada and do my lawn with it! I'll supply beer while your mowing but after finishing you gotta buy your own! Ride ride ride!
PLEASE CONSIDER getting a skidsteer sod cutter! You can make money on preserved sod, reuse, charge for sod preservation and stop struggling with thankless dozing, grading, loading and hauling scrambled sod.
Glad to see a real world review of the "AgriSupply special" mowers. Been looking at them but will go ahead and spend the extra money on a better unit.
Here's an old farming trick that has worked for me in the past replace the top link with a chain. The machine is designed to be dragged on its wheels, the top link is only meant for transporting to and from the job and turning at the end of the row. The chain needs to be long enough so that when the machine is raised as far as it will go, the back of the mower is about 10-12 inch off the ground, and when the machine is lowered allow it to " float" over the ground. (you may need to dis-engage the P.T.O. to protect the shaft knuckles when raising the machine). The green mower (the red mower will bend to over time) frame is bent because as the tractor goes over a dip the weight of the tractor is transferred through the top link onto the back of the mower. The mower wants to rotate around the bottom link arms but the top link stops it so it ends up bending the A-frame on the mower which is weaker than the top link.
Drone flight shows a nice job, well done.
When you work hard all week and you come home and need to cut the grass you just want it to work good , not work on it .
the center antiscaple wheel was an add on accessory on my woods. Probably the same with Bush hog. See if the holes are already tnere. Definitely makes a big difference.
It seems that at mowers end the top link can be put on three different bolts of different heighs and it is now set to middle one. Put that to the lowest bolt and that will fix your problem.
My first thought would be to check the manual. It's in the black tube on the back of the Brush Hog marked Owners Manual. LOL
Holy crap that hydroseeding must seem like it takes forever! It sure seems like they would have some kind if pull behind sprayer for large areas like that.
Swap that top link for a chain....it doesn't matter how it hangs when raised, it will always rest on wheels when lowered.
First thing to do is put a Quick hitch on it. You have the Top of the line mower right there. Keep the deck blown off and your golden brother!!
You are going to hate that new mower. I had a Land pride built just like what you have there. The gauge wheels are too narrow and if you get on any contours the mower scalps and plows sod. I ended up bolting gauge wheels on the two sides which helped but then you can't mow close to anything.
All you have to do is lower the top link down where it attaches to the tractor to level the shredder. A couple of holes should make a big difference.
Very nice job Chris, nice new stronger mower 👍👌⚠️
With the right equipment maintaining it that RC airfield should be good for many years, nice job there guys. I guess you get what you pay for and right there is a prime example with the green mower. Be a handy back up though. Great video bro. Stay safe up your way
You need to use a chain for a top link that way it follows the land better it won't bend anything if you go into a dip
He already has a pivoting top link... no chain needed once he gets it adjusted correctly...
Runway looks great, Chris! A precision job!
Try pulling the back hole of the lower arms to the front hole then put the pin through. It should move it out 3 inches
Raise the top tie rod on the mower side, it looks like it might go up to the same point and the rear tie bars.
Implements will do that when you hooked up to a CAT 2 quick hitch hole pattern. Play with where your top link is mounted, it needs to be pinned higher to get the geometry right and it will pick up flat. You might have to remove the black bracket all together if your lower links will slide in where the brackets mount. I know it sounds confusing but I finally figured that out when we built a 3-point hook up for a forklift mast. If you don’t have the quick hitch on, when you raise it, it will almost keep the back end on the ground. We get by with a hydraulic top link if I don’t have the quick hitch on the tractor though and that does fine, you just have to be mindful when raising it to also suck in your top link so you don’t bind up the PTO... Trust me.. lol
If this bends, there is something serious wrong with the operator. :D
I got one of those green estate mowers, haven't had a problem in 12 years. Not sure why he wants to raise them up so high, but that's what got the drive shaft.
No shit I was thinking the same thing. No indication he even looked at the directions and I know he is smarter then that. Must be alcohol related...
I believe you won't let Timmy use this then? Sorry Tim
I think it's the tractor three point hitch system. There is an option where the tractor holds the arm down. It is supposed to be used only for grading or plowing. I have a New Holland with the option.
Can the tractor side connections be adjusted to make things better? It seems this unit is just barely adjustable enough to be right which seems odd for such a high quality name brand.
Looking good!
right away i see you need to brace the 2 longer supports ..shes shaken and a movin
Okay the start shows what looks like a set-up for an RC flying group but what please is all the other grass as far as you can see for? Good quad copter shots. Thanks again.
Nice Mower Update! 👍
Gonna take a lot of seed...lol We have several Bush Hog brand rotary cutters, I wish we would have bought them from the beginning. Wasted a lot of money on the cheap stuff. Thanks for the video.
on mine I take those pins out and it lets the front flex and the pins are for transport on mine anyway that allows the front and back to follow contour with the wheels
Drag a cow panel with some weight on it to take out the tooth furrows before seeding. That is a cheap way to do it.
Chris, That runway was awesome! Hopefully only light rain till the grass comes in. Nice new mower. Just remember, your tractor and mower are not Volvo 250s! Lol
Smooth as a baby's bottom. Very nice job, Chris & Timmy!
Why don't you buy a flail mower !? Been the best mower I've ever had great for the type of mowing you do ! You don't have to pick up sticks,it will handle heavy grass and do a very good job with light grass , it mulches everything and it you mow wet grass without it clumping up!
Good job on the runway-looks great!!!
Adjust the center draw bar it will lift the back end up its like the tilt up and down on a fork lift
The hitch point on top should be higher or top link at tractor should be at lower hole.
WOW! your building Golf courses now :)
I'm at a loss as to why you could not just adjust the top link. I have almost the same mower and just set the top link so that I can lift the deck entirely but it has enough slack to allow for following the terrain freely with all 4 wheels always on the ground.
Slow down and let the mower work. Going to fast will distort the frame on the new mower. I have a bushog brand myself and it’s 12 years old.
Looks good I bet it took them awhile to spray that with that small tank
Cheap overseas steel bends very easily. We have a Land Pride - awesome mower.
Your drone was the first flight on that runway, the RC field I fly at has a blacktop runway and a grass runway that lets say could definitely need your help. Lol
Move the top link down a hole on the tractor side
I no longer mow with my three-point mower; it's a good one, but the tractor is a few tons too much to be any good to the lawn.
Nice work Chris! Looks awesome 👍👍👍👍 Also, if you take your top link in a bit, it should bring the back level. As least that what does it on my Deere and a 272 mower.
Think someone said this also but the top link on the tractor needs to be lowered a hole. That will fix it.
Chinese made mowers are "sub optimal" to say the least...
New equipment has a slight learning curve...interesting video
Read the owners manual maybe?
I've frequently found that the cheap design of things these days requires immediate personal upgrading. From hose reels to commercial lawn mower components its all made to fail, but a bit of alteration and suddenly it lasts much longer. Wear parts that don't have bearings or grease points, supports made too flimsy, low grade bolts that should be high grade. It goes on and on.
Chris, you and Tim do great work, love too watch you videos. Like the new mower deck.
Dirt work turned out Great Chris !! And got a Nice New Mower..... Have a Great Evening !!
I hope you go back to the runway when its grown and show us some R/C planes using it!
I thought you were going to do a touch and go with your drone at the beginning of the the video. Very nice looking job.
Along with the other fellas, it doesn’t matter what it looks like up in the air, only when it’s working...
The last gang of hyroseeders i had on a site would of coated the tarmac as well they were that useless! I was sent out with a brush to clean of a load crash barriers and concrete head walls and lets just say they didn't get any more sections on the project
Please go back in two weeks for an update!
Dang boy! Now you got a mower like a real grownup!
Love the music. Great job. Cornwall UK.
Congrats on the new mower!
You want the back to sag some.. that way when you drop it the mower is able to float across un even ground. If you don't like that than get a hydraulic top link.
Chris, did you say that mower was 4 grand? They've gone up a lot! I bought a new TM6, circa 1983, for 1500. It's still going strong. In fact, I'm taking a break from using it right now.
I believe those mowers are made by the Alamo company which makes Bushhog, Rino and Shulte
send Agri supply a message they may give you a new mower.
Hah, i just watched the video where you got your old finish mower again yesterday. Looking for one myself.
Hopefully this one holds up better.
Rebuild the hitch part with thicker metal
Would you recommend this mower? Considering getting something like this. What are your thoughts on it?
I bought the (Bush Hog brand) TM6 circa 1983. It's an older, 6' version, of what Chris just bought. It's still going strong. In fact, I'm taking a break from using it right now!
I like your idea
I guess it would be just a matter of playing with it until you find what you feel is right you'll get it I got faith
Good work as always!
You better learn to weld or a good friend that can assist. Would help on the repair expenses.
What do you think about de land pride mowers?
They should have told you how to operate from the dealer.🤦♂️
You'd think they come with a manual
Chris, do those lower arm stems have an angle to them? I'm wondering if they do, you could flip them over to increase your lift height and get the tail wheels up off the ground better.
Love the drone views
This must be a runway for a model airplane club !
Geeez, man, maybe 2 1/2" high grass is a bit short, no ? Hey, you field is no golf course !!
You haven’t lived until you’ve played pasture golf and there’s a reason you wear high-top boots when you do.
Nice looking topsoil Chris 🙂
..GOOD ONE ,KEEP SAFE...
If it has Chinese steel in the old mower , the reason it bends is there is no carbon in the steel , i bought a log splitter that was Chinese built and it stripped the bolts and bent frame while i was working it
that's a nice brush hog, I got one.. I put it through hell and then some..ha
What was the point of leaving the strip of grass next to the paved runway?
to keep it from washing from the water off the pavement
👍👍👍
Chris that’s first class!
Even cheap-ass steel wouldn't just flop over like that.
If you knew a good grading contractor,he could smooth up what you are cutting and not tear up your mower.LOL!
Have you ever considered a Ventrac 👍🏼🇺🇸 mowing system Chris 👍🏼🇺🇸👍🏼🇭🇲
That is a Slasher...not a Mower. The two are NOT the same.
Either DO need to be level and don't let anybody tell you different.
I've spent years using both in Aussie.
Dang you beat the hell out of mower deck. Jk
He did, I got one of those estate mowers, haven't had a problem in 12 years.
@@pumkinvine4175 right? I don't know what the heck he does to them 😂
Reedy Creek NC!!
You just need to use the top link to get it square easy fix
Its not that simple. When it is on the ground you set top link to be straight on the ground but when you lift the mower, the mower is tilted to the back end.
The problem is lrobably, the hitch point on a mower should be closer to the mower itself or top link at the traczor side should be at the lowest hole..
I don't understand why the lifted position matters so much. Surely the only position that matters is where it sits when it's down in the cutting position?