On the welder: That’s a nice piece of equipment you got there, Hobart is the best! The “Accu-Set” design is a direct amperage adjuster on the transformer and it will increase amperage by 1-amp increments. You just need to dial in and you will be welding in AC just for fun, trust me. Two thumbs up!
Yea that's cool but the new lcd readout inverter machines are just as good now a days I honestly have Miller and hobart I just to run my vevor 210 3 in one inverter tho
For a novice welder you did all right.. I would of clamped a plate on the machined face before I welded the bell housing. I have not welded aluminum for so long with stick I do not remember anything about the process. Well done.
@@scrapmanindustries My memory just got tickled. You do know that there is a fluxless rod where all you have to do is clean the base metal with a stainless brush and heat the item to a certain temperature and the rod flows like water. Let it harden and the repair metal is like two to three times stronger than the base metal. The stuff really works. Good luck too. VF
thanks. I always kept reading all these horror stories of people trying to stick weld aluminum and seeing videos like chucke2009 made, I personally thought it would turn out like garbage. While it wasn't the best weld ever it was a lot easier than I was expecting. with some practice it could definitely be a go to method for repair.
I like to keep an open mind so I have to say that it’s ugly, but it works. Moreover, this is cast aluminum and requires material preparation which was not given and you still did a good weld there!
Nice. I need to weld an aluminum piece with a whole I made not knowing that it was hollow and contained refrigerant. I think this should be great for just covering the hole. You think?
@@scrapmanindustries I know how to weld iron and steel. However, I plan to do some tests on a crap piece of aluminum before I proceed. Thanks, I wasn't sure if this was a viable option.
@@funkaddictions you are welcome. and yes that casing in the video was scrap as well. believe it or not I'm actually better at stick welding aluminum than I am at tig welding it currently.
Good job, by the way, and if I had some broken aluminum around the house, then I will use it to cast bronze instead with tensile strength comparable to steel.
that would be cool. I haven't casted anything yet but I've been researching it a lot. even though I've worked in the metals room of a junkyard I've only ever seen a few pieces of bronze. That would be super cool to make some of it.
235AC/ 160DC. according to miller. I've never verified that but it will run a 5/32" 7018. mine also ran 6010's. some claim theirs doesn't. they stopped making them so if you find them being sold new I believe they are left overs. they're pretty good machines for the price of em.
is it possible to weld 1/4” cast aluminum ? i bought a new but damaged Jet 12” disc sander. one of the legs is completely broken off and there a crack that travels from the outer edge to 2” away from the center hole. the material is about a 1/4” think in most places. i purchased the blue diamond aluminum rods, and had high hopes of repairing this tool but i was unsuccessful with the heating it up to 730 degrees. i was running two mapp gas tanks and it was not getting up to temperature. i’m willing to pay someone to weld it, but i don’t know if this is at all possible. at this point i don’t think the aluminum rods will work because all the youtube video show it brazing solid or extruded aluminum but not much on cast aluminum. although there’s a video n repairing a cast aluminum small engine block. should i try heating it up again and just stick it out a little longer to heat it up or is that not going to work? where should i go from here?
I have tried aluminum brazing to no avail. The companies videos make it look super simple but for some reason I could not figure it out. and I am not alone in that regards. there's a bunch of us welders that had high hopes for it but can't figure it out. but yes it can be welded. any welding shop that has the ability and skill to run aluminum tig should be able to figure it out and get you patched up in no time. the problem your going to face it trying to find a weld shop that can actually tig weld. They are out there. depending on your area though it might be hard to find them since most guys just get set up with a stick welder than maybe a mig welder and all they care to learn is steel and sometimes stainless. around here where I'm at there's only 3 of us that are running welding businesses that I know of that can touch aluminum. 2 of us me included do the majority of it with mig. I don't have aluminum tig abilities. the other 2 guys do but only one of them is above average at it. so it may take you a minute to find a place willing to do your repair but keep calling around and once you find a place that can do it and if it lives up to all your expectations make sure you tell all you friends about that place.
I tried the 1/8 hobart 4043, I ran through the whole 10 pack and still dont know if I can run them consistently. I get lucky a few times and able to run an inch weld. It feels like I have to constantly long arc and short arc to keep the rod lit while traveling. How are you running this rod like a 6013 drag or more like a 6010 whip?
I have not been able to run 6013’s really. But honestly it’s like it’s own beast. Trying to run it the same as you would with a steel rod of any kind will mess you up. I won’t be building semi trailers with it but when I ran it I pretty much just hovered at the start and went in a straight line. I didn’t weave much as it was everything I could do just to keep running it in consistantly. Setting your amps correctly is key. If your running 1/8” rod you should be somewhere around 120 amps or so. Make sure your stinger is in the positive side of the welder.
Thx for the reply, maybe it's the machine I'm using, it's just a small inverter but it can output 160amps and has arc force and hotstart. I tried hovering as well but it's really hard cause when the rod sticks I tend to pull up a little too hard causing the arc to go out completely. I might give lincoln 4043 rods a try, i used their 6011 and 309stainless rods before and they were really easygoing.
pre heat would definitely help. get it up to like 250 degrees Fahrenheit or something close to that. This was just a peice of scrap metal that was rolling around in the bed of my truck for a while so I didn't care really if it got fixed the right way I was just practicing welding aluminum.
It’s not always possible to weld on both sides and grinding with the wrong wheels will contaminate the aluminum. I actually never believed that until I was trying to sell a bar of silver a few years after we hit it with the grinder at the junkyard. The junkyards gun said 99.9 silver but the silver buyer kept telling me it was copper. Their gun even read 70 some percent copper. I went out to the truck hit it with a clean flap wheel and sure enough it came back 99.9% silver.
yeah man your definitely gonna need to braze it though. they make silicon bronze wire for mig welding or tig welding stuff like that together. it won't be a true weld but it will be stuck together.
@ goatstinker347: And what do YOU sound like? No need to make rude insensitive comments about others. What? Your shit don’t stink? Who are you to make fun of others w stupid childish comments!? You don’t like it, then go to another channel & stop listening you entitled mf. There’s always got to be an a-hole everywhere - sheesh!
You probably would have had a flatter looking weld had you leveled the piece or ran uphill. Running downhill with rods not designed for it makes the weld want to fall down into your puddle
This is more like a last resort type of thing, emergency weld or temporary repair just to get you going till you get an aluminum TIG welder or spool gun ready MIG machine. Pardon me for saying, but showing quality on your work says a lot about you. Good video, thanks for sharing.
yes. this is usually just used when no other option is available. but its useless if you don't know how to run it. so I like to practice on scrap like that housing.
bullshit. they welded my scooter cases 180cc piaggio 2 stroke engine with electrodes and 10 years later its still rocking. That thing vibrates and is pretty shit quality as for the castings are concerned. So no. And don't start with the usual but you know its not something you should do: im a qualified ISO 9712 NDT tech. So i can probably explain to you how stuff should be welded.
not really sure man, I've heard mixed emotions when people put aluminum stick welds vertical. some say down some say up, I never learned aluminum stick in school, so I just found some scrap I had in my truck for awhile and went to town. it wasn't an extreme angle besides the one area so wasn't worried. just experimenting pretty much.
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I think preheating it with a torch would have helped a lot. I'm pretty sure that's a Ford Mustang bellhousing or some sort of Ford T5 bellhousing
yes it probably would have. luckily its all just scrap
On the welder: That’s a nice piece of equipment you got there, Hobart is the best! The “Accu-Set” design is a direct amperage adjuster on the transformer and it will increase amperage by 1-amp increments. You just need to dial in and you will be welding in AC just for fun, trust me. Two thumbs up!
Yea that's cool but the new lcd readout inverter machines are just as good now a days I honestly have Miller and hobart I just to run my vevor 210 3 in one inverter tho
For a novice welder you did all right.. I would of clamped a plate on the machined face before I welded the bell housing. I have not welded aluminum for so long with stick I do not remember anything about the process. Well done.
Thanks for the tips!
@@scrapmanindustries My memory just got tickled. You do know that there is a fluxless rod where all you have to do is clean the base metal with a stainless brush and heat the item to a certain temperature and the rod flows like water. Let it harden and the repair metal is like two to three times stronger than the base metal. The stuff really works. Good luck too. VF
@@victoryfirst2878 yes I have that in my arsenal now. At the time I did not.
@@scrapmanindustries Peace
@@victoryfirst2878fluxless aluminum rod?
Important to block wind in this situation
I will try that today, never really stick weld aluminum but it seems like its easier for my application.
Ficou muito Boa Sua Solda , tentei soldar aqui em casa mais Minha Solda não ficou Boa assim não . Parabéns pelo Bom trabalho que você Fez ..
That actually came out pretty good
thanks. I always kept reading all these horror stories of people trying to stick weld aluminum and seeing videos like chucke2009 made, I personally thought it would turn out like garbage. While it wasn't the best weld ever it was a lot easier than I was expecting. with some practice it could definitely be a go to method for repair.
Thanks for the info! Thought you were going to blow your engine at the 3:50 mark!
😄
I like to keep an open mind so I have to say that it’s ugly, but it works. Moreover, this is cast aluminum and requires material preparation which was not given and you still did a good weld there!
Nothing wrong with that....looks good, and it's fixed...
thank you
Nice. I need to weld an aluminum piece with a whole I made not knowing that it was hollow and contained refrigerant. I think this should be great for just covering the hole. You think?
I guess it depends how skilled you are with it.
@@scrapmanindustries I know how to weld iron and steel. However, I plan to do some tests on a crap piece of aluminum before I proceed. Thanks, I wasn't sure if this was a viable option.
@@funkaddictions you are welcome. and yes that casing in the video was scrap as well. believe it or not I'm actually better at stick welding aluminum than I am at tig welding it currently.
You can sell that if you still have it. It's a fox body mustang T5 to small block v8 bellhousing. They have some market value.
yeah I wish I woulda known that a few years ago. that thing got shredded up and probably made into Chinese made hotwheelz by now.
Good catch
Good job, by the way, and if I had some broken aluminum around the house, then I will use it to cast bronze instead with tensile strength comparable to steel.
that would be cool. I haven't casted anything yet but I've been researching it a lot. even though I've worked in the metals room of a junkyard I've only ever seen a few pieces of bronze. That would be super cool to make some of it.
Aluminum should've been preheated to 350 degrees. Makes easy starts and less heat loss when starting
Great info
Great video mate, thankyou
you are welcome.
Which mashin us this welding aluminium jobs good job
it was an old Hobart stickmate 235/160 lx
How much amps does that welder put out?
235AC/ 160DC. according to miller. I've never verified that but it will run a 5/32" 7018. mine also ran 6010's. some claim theirs doesn't. they stopped making them so if you find them being sold new I believe they are left overs. they're pretty good machines for the price of em.
is it possible to weld 1/4” cast aluminum ?
i bought a new but damaged Jet 12” disc sander. one of the legs is completely broken off and there a crack that travels from the outer edge to 2” away from the center hole. the material is about a 1/4” think in most places. i purchased the blue diamond aluminum rods, and had high hopes of repairing this tool but i was unsuccessful with the heating it up to 730 degrees. i was running two mapp gas tanks and it was not getting up to temperature. i’m willing to pay someone to weld it, but i don’t know if this is at all possible. at this point i don’t think the aluminum rods will work because all the youtube video show it brazing solid or extruded aluminum but not much on cast aluminum. although there’s a video n repairing a cast aluminum small engine block. should i try heating it up again and just stick it out a little longer to heat it up or is that not going to work?
where should i go from here?
I have tried aluminum brazing to no avail. The companies videos make it look super simple but for some reason I could not figure it out. and I am not alone in that regards. there's a bunch of us welders that had high hopes for it but can't figure it out. but yes it can be welded. any welding shop that has the ability and skill to run aluminum tig should be able to figure it out and get you patched up in no time. the problem your going to face it trying to find a weld shop that can actually tig weld. They are out there. depending on your area though it might be hard to find them since most guys just get set up with a stick welder than maybe a mig welder and all they care to learn is steel and sometimes stainless. around here where I'm at there's only 3 of us that are running welding businesses that I know of that can touch aluminum. 2 of us me included do the majority of it with mig. I don't have aluminum tig abilities. the other 2 guys do but only one of them is above average at it. so it may take you a minute to find a place willing to do your repair but keep calling around and once you find a place that can do it and if it lives up to all your expectations make sure you tell all you friends about that place.
Is a case for a car trasmission . Clutch housing
thank you. I knew it was something automotive. didn't know what for though. thank you.
I tried the 1/8 hobart 4043, I ran through the whole 10 pack and still dont know if I can run them consistently. I get lucky a few times and able to run an inch weld. It feels like I have to constantly long arc and short arc to keep the rod lit while traveling. How are you running this rod like a 6013 drag or more like a 6010 whip?
I have not been able to run 6013’s really. But honestly it’s like it’s own beast. Trying to run it the same as you would with a steel rod of any kind will mess you up. I won’t be building semi trailers with it but when I ran it I pretty much just hovered at the start and went in a straight line. I didn’t weave much as it was everything I could do just to keep running it in consistantly. Setting your amps correctly is key. If your running 1/8” rod you should be somewhere around 120 amps or so. Make sure your stinger is in the positive side of the welder.
Thx for the reply, maybe it's the machine I'm using, it's just a small inverter but it can output 160amps and has arc force and hotstart. I tried hovering as well but it's really hard cause when the rod sticks I tend to pull up a little too hard causing the arc to go out completely. I might give lincoln 4043 rods a try, i used their 6011 and 309stainless rods before and they were really easygoing.
@@michaelhui7545what’d you learn?
Thanks brother very helpful!!
Can you repair a hairline crack in an engine block using this method?
maybe.
this was more or less practice welding on scrap metal
hi no need to preheat it ?
pre heat would definitely help. get it up to like 250 degrees Fahrenheit or something close to that. This was just a peice of scrap metal that was rolling around in the bed of my truck for a while so I didn't care really if it got fixed the right way I was just practicing welding aluminum.
First always heat the aluminum to 200 degrees then weld always grind clean first and weld on both sides.
It’s not always possible to weld on both sides and grinding with the wrong wheels will contaminate the aluminum. I actually never believed that until I was trying to sell a bar of silver a few years after we hit it with the grinder at the junkyard. The junkyards gun said 99.9 silver but the silver buyer kept telling me it was copper. Their gun even read 70 some percent copper. I went out to the truck hit it with a clean flap wheel and sure enough it came back 99.9% silver.
What kind of welding machine did you use?
on that one I ran an older Hobart stickmate AC/DC machine. I have also had luck running aluminum on my sa200
Looks good!
thanks
@@scrapmanindustries no lie after seeing your video I fixed a transmission and it looks decent.
@@SWTWHITEGSR Im glad to hear that this video has helped someone.
Damn good job.
Nice - Good job - Thanks
I ve ford gear box ( cast iron ) so wanna join it to 3y engine ( aluminium),so is dis applicable or wat?
yeah man your definitely gonna need to braze it though. they make silicon bronze wire for mig welding or tig welding stuff like that together. it won't be a true weld but it will be stuck together.
If a lap joint is possible, then use self-drilling screws or tap holes for countersink Allen bolts like a machinist.
They have a high nickel rod for cast iron ,I welded my 302 exhaust manifolds , works well .
Not bad for a Forest Gump sounding person.
@ goatstinker347: And what do YOU sound like? No need to make rude insensitive comments about others. What? Your shit don’t stink? Who are you to make fun of others w stupid childish comments!? You don’t like it, then go to another channel & stop listening you entitled mf. There’s always got to be an a-hole everywhere - sheesh!
Super bro u r working
Welding cast iron is much harder imo, because it cracks like glass when exposed to high heat. Welding iron is like trying fix broken glass.
I have fixed many broken borosilicate dab rig nails with a torch
You probably would have had a flatter looking weld had you leveled the piece or ran uphill. Running downhill with rods not designed for it makes the weld want to fall down into your puddle
probably but I was just messing around on some scrap metal. can't be an expert without practicing first.
This is more like a last resort type of thing, emergency weld or temporary repair just to get you going till you get an aluminum TIG welder or spool gun ready MIG machine. Pardon me for saying, but showing quality on your work says a lot about you. Good video, thanks for sharing.
yes. this is usually just used when no other option is available. but its useless if you don't know how to run it. so I like to practice on scrap like that housing.
bullshit. they welded my scooter cases 180cc piaggio 2 stroke engine with electrodes and 10 years later its still rocking. That thing vibrates and is pretty shit quality as for the castings are concerned. So no. And don't start with the usual but you know its not something you should do: im a qualified ISO 9712 NDT tech. So i can probably explain to you how stuff should be welded.
@@fuckingpippaman Oops! "Pardon me for saying, but showing quality on your work says a lot about you."
If you had cleaned the part would been just perfect .👍
yes. sometimes I like to leave my scrap dirty when I weld it though. makes for some real world practice.
Yeah! Just put epoxy where the tapped hole is at.
Shouldn’t you have tried to weld it uphill instead of down?
not really sure man, I've heard mixed emotions when people put aluminum stick welds vertical. some say down some say up, I never learned aluminum stick in school, so I just found some scrap I had in my truck for awhile and went to town. it wasn't an extreme angle besides the one area so wasn't worried. just experimenting pretty much.
Ford bell housing.
That rod works better with Oxy-Acetylene .