I have a Harbor Freight hitch but found it to be a pain like you said but watching how you made the top pin correction, I think that you solved my problem! Thank You, Bill, I am now a subscriber!
From what I've seen I think that you're quick attach should be much straighter than it is and the top link then should fit in better so try and extend your top link
Thank you sir! I have been looking in to the Harbor Freight quick connect and you help me make my mind up and I'm ordering one today! I'm so tired of fighting attaching my implements in the summer heat.
Make sure it fits your implements. It’s dangerous to use like this and you’ll need bushing adapter kits for the side pins on all implements you wish to use.
The H-F reviews that have low ratings is because the quick hitch isn't wide enough or the implement pins are not long enough. If not wide enough for the implement, the simple fix is usually EZ. Just take the pins off and have them point inwards. Had to do this on a hole auger. And if the implement's pins just can't reach, pick up longer pins from TSC, ASC, Rual King and the others that have them. Even H-F has them. I've done this with my box blade. Works so much nicer now. Hope this helps.
You didn't need that extra piece from TSC. All you have to do is adjust your top link out some so that your Quick Hitch is level vertically (up and down). Then when you lift up on it, it will hook all 3 points. I have the Harbor Freight Quick Hitch and it works great when you have it adjusted right. So try adjusting it right first.
Lengthen the top link so you can get under it. If you use your fix for a ground engaging implement you’re gonna have issues. The top hook on the quick attach looks like it can be adjusted up or down. Thanks for the video. Gonna go try one.
I know it looks that way in the video but with my implements you couldn't take the hook off the quick hitch and hand fit it. My work around has worked well for 3 years with my tiller, hush hog, hillers and cultivators. If I had a double bottom plow then maybe not. But I don't use it with my middle buster or hay rake.
That was a great video all these years I've seen them a piece of equipment attached to what they really do now that I've seen your video I know exactly where I'm going to Harbor Freight thank you very much and you have a wonderful great life on the farm from Paul
When you have something heavy on like a molboard and that to piece slides off ur gonna end up wearing the impliment on your head. Learned that from experience
I can honestly say it's quicker just kicking them old 3 point pins in as I've been doing the last 34 years. I can see this idea working if it's perfected though. Thanks for your video.
By no means I’m I telling you your business however I feel I should tell you this to keep you safe. You should have some bushing adapters on the pins of the cutter and every implement you will use w the quick hitch. Here’s a link to see what I’m talking about. You can get them at any dealer also from tractor supply but they’re found cheaper elsewhere. www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/countyline-quick-hitch-bushing-kit-cat-1 Without this bushing kit you could do some serious damage to the cutter, quick hitch, tractor or to yourself. The pins on the implements are small in diameter and will bounce around inside the quick hitch and also from side to side. They could even pop out or break because they aren’t held in tightly as they would be with the adapter kit and bounce around w lots of force from the weight of the implement. They are a must if you use the quick hitch. Also the way you have it rigged for the top hook is dangerous. The hook is meant to hold the top link and top pin of the implement tightly. Without using the quick hitch as it’s intended you could cause a lot of damage quickly. I’ve used a quick hitch for well over 10 years. Each implement has an adapter kit and each completely locks firmly into place both top hook and the pins on each side. If the hook is too wide for your implements then this hitch isn’t meant for them. I have a John Deere Tractor w a John Deere quick hitch. It fits all of my implements perfectly except my seed spreader. I have to remove the hitch because the top hook doesn’t match the top pin on the spreader. So to be safe I just don’t use it. But my hitch works on frontier implements as well as Kubota implements. Again I don’t mean to tell you your business merely giving you the information to use as you see fit and to possibly keep you from injury or damage to the tractor.
Exactly, this a wreck waiting to happen. My father spent the last 12 year's of his life in a wheel chair due to a tractor implement improperly hooked up. Its worth the time and money to hook it up correctly.
I think ur top pin is not adjusted right, mine hooks at bolt under where top pin attaches to cutter. Didn't need swivel or anything. Lots more solid connection too. Box blade, rock rake and disc all connect this way.
A lot of people think that. But I couldn't make it fit no matter what I did. I think it has to do with the size of the hook. Lots of people with different tractors have the same issue. There are all kinds of folks welding adapter and stuff because of it. I just wanted a simpler route.
Excellent!!! Thank you!!! I am also about to leave the rat race and I need to learn all of these things. And, by the way, And, by the way, I like the way you adjust your belt line. You'd do a great Chris Farley imitation, "Living in a van, down by the river!" Just kidding you dude.. You're terrific. Great video!!!
I've been toying with the idea of a quick hitch. I have a lot of different brand 3 point attachments, some old, some new, so I don't know if there is one made that will work for me.
What was the part that you bought from Tractor Supply to fix the top link problem? I will go tomorrow after Church and buy one. I was getting so frustrated until I saw your video.
The problem isn't the length of the top link. The adapter hook is too large to fit inside the two pins that holds the top of the implement. It will not go between the pins at all. I would have to have rewelded all of my implements to make and adapt them to fit. This swivel made it so I didn't have to weld or move anything for $12.
It wouldn't fit any of my implements without modification. The $7 fix was way easier for us. Actually the hook on the quick hitch would not fit into the area for the implement at all, possibly just a Mahindra thing but I don't know. There just was not enough room for the hook to fit(hook was bigger than the hole it would have to go into). Thanks for the comment.
I had to grind my top hook on the quick attach to get the pin to fit in the slot. Like a previous poster said extend the top link so it will engage first then as you raise it the implement will drop into the bottom attach points.
Great video College Hill Farms I was thinking about getting one from Harbor freight but didn’t know if it would hold up but I’m convinced I’m going to get mine tomorrow Question: what is the part called for the top connection you had to get from tractor supply Thank you very much for sharing
I used a 3/4" shackle from tractor supply instead of the swivels to drop down on the qh hook and I can easily move it to other implements as needed. Kinda of the Same concept
3 point hitches are a process. There is no easy way to work with them, especially if you do not have level ground. But for pulling a plow, or a back blade, there is nothing better! I swear at mine regularly and have strained more than a few muscles connecting my 5' brush hog up to my 1965 IH 424 tractor, as well as my 1953 Ford NAA tractor.
How's she goin'? I just found your channel!!! I just bought a quick hitch and was searching for videos about them and I found you!!! I subbed too because as I watched your channel I see you are a lot like my channel. You show what you like to do around your place, the same sort of things I like to do around mine here in central Nova Scotia!!! Take care!!
The only potential problem with your work around is the top link could come loose while operating. Not likely on level ground and easily solved by pinning that loose end to the quick hitch versus just setting it in the hook.
Thanks for video....I am considering a quick attatch......one thing that may help is I set our brushhog up on 6x6 scrap blocks....if on decent level ground, then this helps in always lining up the pins.... it just helps keep it neat. Also....try to keep the brush and grass off the top after using....will extend life of the top from rusting out as quick. I like your idea for the top link area if the link will not extend that far
Bottom line. Check the measurements of the equipment u have against the quick hitch. You’ll be surprised of the stuff that don’t line up. Even the top link will not work sometimes too.
My wife bought me one from harbor freight in 2004 on sale for around $70 i put it on a L3400 kubota then switched it to a mx 5100 in 2010 still using it, love it. You do have to modify some equipment, but its sure worth it.
thanks for the video, i could probably use that, $100 well spent. I should do a video of my Golf cart top that i installed on my tractor roll over bar, $20 and some scrap lumber to keep the sun and rain off you
1/2" galvanized swivel. I would give you the link but they have the wrong picture on the link so I don't know if it is right or not. It is over by the chains in the store.
I’ve watched so many tractor videos and I’ve noticed that not many folks have a hydraulic top link… when I bought my tractor (Kabota L3830), My dealer told me the best Additional investment I could make was to have them install a three point hydraulic system for the rear blade… Thankfully I listened to his advice…. I know it adds a few dollars to the investment but I’m surprised more folks don’t have the Hydraulic set up for the rear?????
I have used tractors since I was a kid and we never had a hydraulic top link. I knew they existed but I wouldn't have even thought about it because we never had one before.
Got to get me one of those. Maybe hubby will stop hollering for me every time he needs to hook up an implement to the tractor lol. It gets exhausting having to help him hook up an implement.
FYI If you replace your 3rd link with a 32 x 2 cylinder and plug it into your HYDRAULICS Then you dont have to keep adjusting it for different implements you just do it from the cab
In my opinion our old farmall 140 had the best hitch system ever. It was a simple drive up and drive off. One piece. You could load and unload from the seat of your tractor in a single motion. To bad other manufactures didn't pick up on it.
Hello, the hook should be dropped into a lower position. You should then push the top link out so that the quick hitch is 90 degrees to the ground. On your mower the quick hitch is designed to grab the lower “A” frame bolt, not the top link pin. Also get some lift arm bushings and top link bushings and that quick hitch will fit nice and easy onto your mower. I just purchased a quick hitch and it’s wonderful. Great Video.
It still will not fit into my implement if it was off and I hand fitted it. Thousands of people have that problem. With the stump jumper attachment there isn't enough room for the hook to fit.
I usually dont leave comments and i’m doing this to be mean. Just from experience. I had A HF hitch about 2 years ago. After about 2-3 weeks it ended up in the scrape metal pile. It’s cheap made in China junk. I understand all implements are quick hitch usable. But with this type of hitch it’s non adjustable match the with of your lift pins. And hooking up your PTO. Is a pain. Everything in the way. What i switch to was Pats quick hitch. It will fit everything. Heavy duty, made in USA. Sill have to get off your tractor to hook up your top link but lots of times you have to get off your tractor anyway. And ALWAYS with a quick hitch use washers and hitch pins on your lift pins!!! Not preaching, just trying to save equipment and maybe a life. Good luck on your farm.
My harbor freight quick hitch wont work on my trac because lower openings where arms go isnt wide enough,,,top link opening is correct width and works ,,is the lower opening on yours same as top link opening,,??
It only works with type 1 and 0 implements. If you have a larger tractor there are a few for type 2 implements. Some of the older tractors the implements are wider at the bottom. I bet you have a category 2 tractor. Category 2 pins won't fit in the bottom.
I don't know then. I have a couple of implements that won't work with the quick hitch but never with getting the quick hitch to mount to the tractor. @@charliesmith9528
Was having trouble trying to get my top link attached to my new tractor and new to me brush hog, another trip to get a shackle or swivel like that and I’ll be set, thanks for the video!
@College Hill Farm 100 bucks more for the harbor freight one,... plus alot of attachments require you to get out to hook PTO up anyway. (Cant use the quick attachment for a post hole auger)The top link is easy. But i get what you're saying just another option for sure.
Not all attachments have the same standardized spacing. Also creates a longer distance from pto shaft that could cause problems. Great idea but not a cure all .
no the three-point han-shan smaller tractors is narrower than the 3 point hitch on larger tractor also some of the off brand names are all so different that you are correct in the extra distance from your Implement in a longer PTO however if it is well-balanced it usually doesn't present a problem I'm running hay baler and the PTO shaft is 6ft long with a center bearing and 2 U joints also depends on the RPM you're running on your PTO but all three point inches are not the same only on American-made tractors they are the same on the compact tractors but not on the full-size tractors there are adapters for all
If I read correctly, you stated that you had this for 4 years and no problems. I’ve been thinking about getting one, now I think I will. Thanks for the information.
I wouldn’t rig mine this way it’s dangerous. You’ll also need an adapter bushing kit for the pins on the implements. I’ve had a quick hitch for over 10 years and it fits properly. No loose connections and no jerry rigging on the top hook pin.
Brand new cutter... bad boys brand... it does not cut all that well...front scrapes ground... moved tire up and down at rear what other adjustment can I make
I beg to differ because the brush hog mower will chop your a or alfalfa into shorter stocks and making it harder to bail and pick up especially alfalfa we're after it dries it starts flaking if it is cut and lay down and Rose and you turn it over it will not flake is much there is more waste when using a brush hog Tite rotary mower. All this I know from experience because I do have friends that raise alfalfa or horses in for sale they do a lot of business and if you use a brush hog to mow it it makes way too much waste material that lays on the ground and does not get picked up buy a hay baler or rake or what have you so in short just because a brush hog tight more is more user-friendly in the long run it creates a lot of waste that's why the best thing for a an alfalfa actually is a swather but typically a swather is only a one use piece of equipment and expensive or a sickle mower on the back of a tractor is a lot cheaper and does a more efficient job mowers were made to cut grass not farm with
While what you say has some truth - quite a bit actually. It is sufficient for a small farm that does not have a tractor sufficient to operate a disk mower or hay balers. For the most part here in Kentucky we (our hobby farm) bale grass hay not alfalfa. We are keeping it on the farm. I know families that have done it that way for decades. We do not bale it. We put it up loose. Rake it with a wheel rake and pick it up with a buck rake. We loose some but I don't have to buy a bigger tractor nor expensive baler. We only cut about 4 tons per year Or about 8 roll bail equivalents in 3 cuttings.
This is my fifth year. Aside from a little rust it has preformed awesome. Even the swivels have held up that long. I use it on my tiller, bush hog and cultivators. One of the best investments I ever made.
I have one of these quick attach from HF but it doesn't work on all implement's in the instructions that come with it there is a Y shaped adapter that is available thru HF just not in the store u have to call them. Now it works on all implement's!
Top link connection may work for small hobby size equipment but it is supposed to be a fixed connection.. I'd spend more money and get one that works 100%. Backing up to your equipment equipment shouldn't be that difficult. Again ..the top link is designed to be a rigid connection...designed to Push and pull. I'm 72. Do this every day. Good day 2 min. Bad day 5 minutes. Better video than I could have done.
Absolutely this is a category 1 hitch system. The only ground engaging equipment is the rotary cutter, tiller, and cultivators. So most all work in the forward position.
@@CollegeHillFarm Not as the top link but to move the top link aft. Eather end of that short piece or both can be moved aft by moving the attachment aft. I suspect that's why the extra holes are there.
That might work with the bush hog. I think there still is not enough room for the hook. None of my other attachments have that option anyway. That was a great thought though.
Here are some tips for your HFQH. Keep in mind that it's made in China and also keep in mind that the CAT 1, 2, 3 etc. "standards" allow for a wide variation in implement pin width and centerline height of the third pin. So here is my story with the HFQH. First, the top hook is too close the the QH frame and needs to be extended by 1" to 1-1/4" which is accomplished by welding a block to the back of the hook and redrilling the holes. There are aftermarket ones available for purchase for around $30 if you aren't handy in the fabrication department. Second, the supplied pins that hook the QH to the draft arms are grossly undersized...by 0.100" to be exact. This will cause excessive wear on the swivelly balls of the draft arms and provide a lot of unnecessary slop to the assembly. I bought a set of CAT 1 lower link pins at Farm & Fleet and re-made the lower pins using the purchased ones as a starting point. A little lathe work and fabrication/welding will do the trick. You will also have to drill out the holes in the QH to 57/64" to accommodate the new pins. Third, you need to use bushings on the lower pins of your implement to bring the O.D. of the pins from 7/8" to around 1-7/16" so they fit snugly in the lower hooks of the QH. You have to do this with ANY QH you use, Land Pride, iMatch, SpeeCo, Lee Agra, etc.. I made such modifications to my HFQH and it has served me well for over 3 years with no other issues. Also, in order to keep the "quick" in the QH, you need to adjust your implements to match one setting on the QH...this is only a concern if you use (usually) older implements from a variety of manufacturers as I stated before, the "standards" for 3PH's are very loose at best and allowed manufacturers MUCH leeway in their designs. When hooking up your implements, lengthen the top link sufficiently so that it is mostly vertical with the centerline of the lower pins, back up to the implement aiming the top hook into the upper pin of the implement, engage the top hook, and raise the 3PH and if you have everything adjusted properly, the attachment will hook up perfectly, flop your levers down and go.
My method is quicker and simpler and cheaper than all that. But Thanks for the suggestion. My method was intended to help those people who can't weld. I have welded plenty of things before for implements. But most people that would buy this would never have a welder in their hand before in their life.
@@CollegeHillFarm No problem...I'm a purist and have equipment and know-how to make such modifications so I opted for that route. I have also found that the more you spend on a QH, the less messing around you have to do to make it work as designed. i bought a Farm Hand by Lee Agra for $700 that required "zero" input on my behalf to work. It is made entirely in the USA with USA materials, so it's one of those pay me now or pay me later situations. If you don't want to pony up the $$$ then prepare to spend some time and money to get stuff to work.
No worries. It was just a matter of money for me. I would have a 40HP John Deere or Massey Furguson instead of a 22hp Mahindra too. But the truth is there isn't an American made tractor any more. They might be assembled in the US but most of their parts and engines come from outside the country. But I am satisfied with what I have. It does what I need to do every morning when I go out and start it up.
Thanks for the reply about the swivel link. I am concerned that my pto shaft on my Betstco 37" flail mower might be too short (31.5") fully extended when I add the extra 4" needed for the quick hitch. I have a John Deere 1023e and I had to extend the pto quite a bit to attach it to my tractor. How long is your pto when using the quick hitch to your brush hog? Thanks John
It adds about 4" to 5" to the pto shaft. All of my shafts had the extra length with no problem. Every tractor would be different for the length of the pto shaft. If you have an extra 4 or 5 inches on your pto shaft it should be good that is when the flail mower is all the way down. As far as how long mine is I don't think that would help you. If you just mark with a sharpie where the shaft is when it is fully down then take it off and see how much you have left before it comes off. If you have a foot left you are probably ok. Anything under a foot and I would also be concerned and want a longer shaft. The only one that came close to this was my till. It had such a short shaft to begin with. But when attached it is in 8" or so. That has been enough so far.
@@CollegeHillFarm no doubt. I found that out too. Got one from HD last weekend, and saw how enormous those hooks are... way too big for cat1. So I took it back. Bad design.
not really. I have to replace a clip pin every now and again. The hitch is such that it can't come off of the quick hitch even if both clip pins came out.
I'm new at 3pt. but not tractors. Why can't the two bottom catches be attached to the arms instead of that frame? Another, why not have the two bottom catches spring loaded so they snap shut after catching the pins, and have a lever to open when detaching? A bar can hold the arms width.
it is just made that way. It will spring shut but sometimes it don't so I just open them. The frame is the quick hitch itself. Once you try putting on a 3 pt set of arms on a piece of equipment without the quick hitch and always having to be perfect on the placement and adjust the sway control between every implement you will see the value.
Dave Saam That's what Pat's quick hitch is, I believe. I don't own it though. I still muscle the implements around. The John Deere has sliding/telescoping lift arms to assist hitching up the bottom links. I use a hydraulic top link, which makes hitching up the top really easy.
They are spring loaded. That’s the way I hook mine up. You also need a bushing adapter kit for the side pins. All 3 points must make contact and fit snugly. Otherwise it’s an accident waiting to happen.
Not ever used one of these but am looking in to getting one. One question I have is, what keeps the top/center link connection from disengaging from the quick attach. Nothing there to hold it in place. For instance, pushing dirt or rocks with a blade turned backwards. Looks to me like that top/center connection would jump out?
yes it would. To use a blade that you might use in reverse you have to connect straight to the 3 pt hitch. I have to do that with my hay rake as well and my potato plow.
@@CollegeHillFarm I think a lazy man invented the 3 point hitch but by chance it comes apart tractor and bush hog ruined work on a steep enough slope I guarantee it will un latch
I agree it might. We have plenty of hills. But it hasn't in 8 yrs. To be honest I have lost a pin or two with it not coming loose. I check it every time I use it. If a pin comes out then the sleeves would slide off too. Its all a gamble and a maintenance issue.
harbor freight has something to help with the top attachment point. I gave up because i don't have time to play with the hitch. I recommend checking another TH-camr named "JIMeRIG" that made a add on modifications to your hitch. you'll eliminate that tractor supply part and actually set the quick hitch to drive up and hitch up in one try then flip the two lower levers to lock up the bottom.
seems if you already set your PTO shaft length before you bought a quick hitch, then your PTO shaft might be too short. Did you have trouble like that?
no, most pto shafts have the extra 2". But now if some people bought their pto shaft just exactly long enough their might be a problem. Like they bought a 36"-41" shaft and they had to have the full 41" then they might not have the extra 2".
No. I have added long hitch pins and that has fixed any problems I had. They work better than the snap ring lynch pins I have been using. I have never had it slip off the pins in 6 years. That plowing, cultivatin, tilling, and bushhogging.
If you need it wider, just buy longer side pins for the implements. TSC, ASC, Rual King and the others all have them. I've done this with my box blade. Works so much nicer now. Hope this helps.
This is not based on my experience, just from watching several videos on quick hitches. Your top hook on the. quick hitch, should be all the way down, and hook the lower bar on the top of the mowers hitch. Also adjust the top link out farther for more reach. The bottom locking levers are spring loaded, so you can connect without rotating the top latch levers to open them. Then you lock them open, as you demonstrated, when unhooking the mower. Hope this helps.
Thousands of people have this problem with their implement. It's not just me. It is all in the way you implements are made. That's why the video has over 300k views.
I ‘m building a fence using an auger during bush hogging season, which wasn’t planned that way, it kinda just turned out that way. I don’t know if you’ve ever hooked up an auger to a 3 pt but it is a bitch and I hate unhooking it, then hooking up the bush hog then same thing over again . I’d just about rather take a beating. That looks like something that would help me out tremendously. Thanks so much for letting me know about it. I have 20 acres in the foothills of the Ozark in Arkansas . With the heat & humidity, every little shortcut that makes life easier is a blessing. From your accent, you sound like your from the south also , so I bet you know what I’m talking about. If your like me , you wouldn’t trade this country life for nothing......I’m going to Harbor Freight this week and pick me one up. Thanks again.
Hey, just picked up one at harbor Freight. Couldn't find a double eye swivel the size of the one you have. Wonder if you could steer me in the right direction? Thanks
From another "well rounded and experienced" farmer...I have watched dozens of quick hitch videos, all of them opting to either not use the hitch or having complicated solutions often involving welding. Your solution is simple, economical and easy to implement. Kudos! Great job! and thank you. I will definitely use mine now.
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I have a Harbor Freight hitch but found it to be a pain like you said but watching how you made the top pin correction, I think that you solved my problem! Thank You, Bill, I am now a subscriber!
That was my entire purpose for making the video. Thank you Bill, Joel
Please fix your center link and run it correct. Not being ugly just be safe.
From what I've seen I think that you're quick attach should be much straighter than it is and the top link then should fit in better so try and extend your top link
Your top link is not adjusted properly. Your quick hitch should be plumb vertical. not leaning.
Nicely done and straight to the point. Thank you 👌
Your center link is all the way in run it out so the quick hitch is pointed more forward
I noticed that too.
Have one for 5 years. Too narrow to start but used a little heat and a hammer now fits.
Thank you sir! I have been looking in to the Harbor Freight quick connect and you help me make my mind up and I'm ordering one today! I'm so tired of fighting attaching my implements in the summer heat.
Make sure it fits your implements. It’s dangerous to use like this and you’ll need bushing adapter kits for the side pins on all implements you wish to use.
The H-F reviews that have low ratings is because the quick hitch isn't wide enough or the implement pins are not long enough. If not wide enough for the implement, the simple fix is usually EZ. Just take the pins off and have them point inwards. Had to do this on a hole auger. And if the implement's pins just can't reach, pick up longer pins from TSC, ASC, Rual King and the others that have them. Even H-F has them. I've done this with my box blade. Works so much nicer now. Hope this helps.
You’re not old and fat, you’re well rounded and experienced! 😂👍🏼
Thanks for the encouragement! :)
Ty's Projects and
Would love to see an updated video with a properly adjusted top link
Awsum ,,, thank u for the knowledge
Good, straightforward review. Thanks. Didn't know HF had those.
That was a good idea you had to make the top connection for the bush hog on the quick connect
You didn't need that extra piece from TSC. All you have to do is adjust your top link out some so that your Quick Hitch is level vertically (up and down). Then when you lift up on it, it will hook all 3 points. I have the Harbor Freight Quick Hitch and it works great when you have it adjusted right. So try adjusting it right first.
Lots of people have that problem. You couldn't hand fit that hook into my top. It is too big.
Lengthen the top link so you can get under it. If you use your fix for a ground engaging implement you’re gonna have issues. The top hook on the quick attach looks like it can be adjusted up or down. Thanks for the video. Gonna go try one.
I know it looks that way in the video but with my implements you couldn't take the hook off the quick hitch and hand fit it. My work around has worked well for 3 years with my tiller, hush hog, hillers and cultivators. If I had a double bottom plow then maybe not. But I don't use it with my middle buster or hay rake.
That was a great video all these years I've seen them a piece of equipment attached to what they really do now that I've seen your video I know exactly where I'm going to Harbor Freight thank you very much and you have a wonderful great life on the farm from Paul
“Old, fat and a little bit lazy”. Hearing that personal assessment, I knew I could relate! Great review!
I need to buy one of them. Thanks for the great video.
Love the swivel for the top link, that has been my problem connection.
It’s dangerous
Great Video
When you have something heavy on like a molboard and that to piece slides off ur gonna end up wearing the impliment on your head. Learned that from experience
Don't have a moldboard plow. With a tiller I don't need one.
I'm old and fat and lazy too. Thanks for showing this to me. I think it'd be a big help. Thanks.
It was one of my best purchases.
I can honestly say it's quicker just kicking them old 3 point pins in as I've been doing the last 34 years.
I can see this idea working if it's perfected though. Thanks for your video.
Good Information. Thank You for sharing.
By no means I’m I telling you your business however I feel I should tell you this to keep you safe.
You should have some bushing adapters on the pins of the cutter and every implement you will use w the quick hitch. Here’s a link to see what I’m talking about. You can get them at any dealer also from tractor supply but they’re found cheaper elsewhere.
www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/countyline-quick-hitch-bushing-kit-cat-1
Without this bushing kit you could do some serious damage to the cutter, quick hitch, tractor or to yourself. The pins on the implements are small in diameter and will bounce around inside the quick hitch and also from side to side. They could even pop out or break because they aren’t held in tightly as they would be with the adapter kit and bounce around w lots of force from the weight of the implement. They are a must if you use the quick hitch.
Also the way you have it rigged for the top hook is dangerous. The hook is meant to hold the top link and top pin of the implement tightly. Without using the quick hitch as it’s intended you could cause a lot of damage quickly.
I’ve used a quick hitch for well over 10 years.
Each implement has an adapter kit and each completely locks firmly into place both top hook and the pins on each side.
If the hook is too wide for your implements then this hitch isn’t meant for them.
I have a John Deere Tractor w a John Deere quick hitch. It fits all of my implements perfectly except my seed spreader. I have to remove the hitch because the top hook doesn’t match the top pin on the spreader. So to be safe I just don’t use it.
But my hitch works on frontier implements as well as Kubota implements.
Again I don’t mean to tell you your business merely giving you the information to use as you see fit and to possibly keep you from injury or damage to the tractor.
Exactly, this a wreck waiting to happen. My father spent the last 12 year's of his life in a wheel chair due to a tractor implement improperly hooked up. Its worth the time and money to hook it up correctly.
I think ur top pin is not adjusted right, mine hooks at bolt under where top pin attaches to cutter. Didn't need swivel or anything. Lots more solid connection too. Box blade, rock rake and disc all connect this way.
A lot of people think that. But I couldn't make it fit no matter what I did. I think it has to do with the size of the hook. Lots of people with different tractors have the same issue. There are all kinds of folks welding adapter and stuff because of it. I just wanted a simpler route.
Excellent!!! Thank you!!! I am also about to leave the rat race and I need to learn all of these things. And, by the way, And, by the way, I like the way you adjust your belt line. You'd do a great Chris Farley imitation, "Living in a van, down by the river!" Just kidding you dude.. You're terrific. Great video!!!
That looks like an easy solution. 3 point can be a bear to attach.
It has worked really good for us for the last 6 years.
You should be useing the bushings on the lower pins cause thay are for class 2
This is a class one hitch. While they make bushings I have never in 8 yrs had a problem with just using hitch pins.
Nice video I subscribed. Iam also looking to get thus for my kubota l3301 to show on my channel
I've been toying with the idea of a quick hitch. I have a lot of different brand 3 point attachments, some old, some new, so I don't know if there is one made that will work for me.
I got mine and will not work with 2 of my attachments but it works with the 3 I use the most.
What was the part that you bought from Tractor Supply to fix the top link problem? I will go tomorrow after Church and buy one. I was getting so frustrated until I saw your video.
They gave gone up a little. www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/national-hardware-3252bc-1-2-forged-swivel-galvanized?cm_vc=-10005
Why wouldn't you just lengthen your top link rather than use the adapter?
The problem isn't the length of the top link. The adapter hook is too large to fit inside the two pins that holds the top of the implement. It will not go between the pins at all. I would have to have rewelded all of my implements to make and adapt them to fit. This swivel made it so I didn't have to weld or move anything for $12.
Looks like you need to lengthen the top 3pt link to get the upper attach point to work on the implement.
It wouldn't fit any of my implements without modification. The $7 fix was way easier for us. Actually the hook on the quick hitch would not fit into the area for the implement at all, possibly just a Mahindra thing but I don't know. There just was not enough room for the hook to fit(hook was bigger than the hole it would have to go into). Thanks for the comment.
I had to grind my top hook on the quick attach to get the pin to fit in the slot. Like a previous poster said extend the top link so it will engage first then as you raise it the implement will drop into the bottom attach points.
@@CollegeHillFarm what is the name of that part? so I can pick one up for my husband. Thanks for any info you can share.
@@Virgilsvortex It is called a galvanized 1/2" swivel. Got it at Tractor Supply. It is only stout enough for category one.
@@CollegeHillFarm thanks may your day be blessed.
Great video College Hill Farms I was thinking about getting one from Harbor freight but didn’t know if it would hold up but I’m convinced
I’m going to get mine tomorrow
Question: what is the part called for the top connection you had to get from tractor supply
Thank you very much for sharing
Been using mine 7 years now with no issues.
I used a 3/4" shackle from tractor supply instead of the swivels to drop down on the qh hook and I can easily move it to other implements as needed. Kinda of the Same concept
Thank you
Love the video would left to see some pictures of your farm house I live in a farmhouse that's a 100 years old in Alabama
What part of Bama?
3 point hitches are a process. There is no easy way to work with them, especially if you do not have level ground. But for pulling a plow, or a back blade, there is nothing better! I swear at mine regularly and have strained more than a few muscles connecting my 5' brush hog up to my 1965 IH 424 tractor, as well as my 1953 Ford NAA tractor.
Thanks for the info, just now learning my implements👍
How's she goin'? I just found your channel!!! I just bought a quick hitch and was searching for videos about them and I found you!!! I subbed too because as I watched your channel I see you are a lot like my channel. You show what you like to do around your place, the same sort of things I like to do around mine here in central Nova Scotia!!! Take care!!
The only potential problem with your work around is the top link could come loose while operating. Not likely on level ground and easily solved by pinning that loose end to the quick hitch versus just setting it in the hook.
If you used it as designed it wasn't pinned on either.
@@CollegeHillFarm true but the top link nor mount point could move independent of the lower arms.
Thanks for video....I am considering a quick attatch......one thing that may help is I set our brushhog up on 6x6 scrap blocks....if on decent level ground, then this helps in always lining up the pins.... it just helps keep it neat. Also....try to keep the brush and grass off the top after using....will extend life of the top from rusting out as quick. I like your idea for the top link area if the link will not extend that far
Fantastic! Thank you
Bottom line. Check the measurements of the equipment u have against the quick hitch. You’ll be surprised of the stuff that don’t line up. Even the top link will not work sometimes too.
yep. But the work around sure beats hooking up a straight 3 point. Almost everything can be modified.
Pats is better. plus it works with an auger, this style doesnt.
My wife bought me one from harbor freight in 2004 on sale for around $70 i put it on a L3400 kubota then switched it to a mx 5100 in 2010 still using it, love it. You do have to modify some equipment, but its sure worth it.
Hey bud, run your top link out and it’ll catch the center pin. No need for that sketchy shackle you’re using.
It don't catch at all. It can't go through the shackle.
City boy!
Thanks for boosting the channel with comments.
I have the same harbor freight quick hitch and I cut out 1-1/4 piece on each side of the top link and welded it back together. It works great
I love mine.
thanks for the video, i could probably use that, $100 well spent. I should do a video of my Golf cart top that i installed on my tractor roll over bar, $20 and some scrap lumber to keep the sun and rain off you
Yes, please make that video!
Top Link......
Hello sir, if you wouldn't mind, what is the device you bought from TS that you looped over the top hook?
Thank you
1/2" galvanized swivel. I would give you the link but they have the wrong picture on the link so I don't know if it is right or not. It is over by the chains in the store.
I’ve watched so many tractor videos and I’ve noticed that not many folks have a hydraulic top link… when I bought my tractor (Kabota L3830), My dealer told me the best Additional investment I could make was to have them install a three point hydraulic system for the rear blade… Thankfully I listened to his advice…. I know it adds a few dollars to the investment but I’m surprised more folks don’t have the Hydraulic set up for the rear?????
I have used tractors since I was a kid and we never had a hydraulic top link. I knew they existed but I wouldn't have even thought about it because we never had one before.
@@CollegeHillFarm if you use a box scraper much, they are invaluable..
Got to get me one of those. Maybe hubby will stop hollering for me every time he needs to hook up an implement to the tractor lol. It gets exhausting having to help him hook up an implement.
Where did you get the top link swivel connector? I looked on Tractor Supply's website but could not find it.
Tractor supply stopped carrying it. But you can get it from Amazon www.amazon.com/Galvanized-Eye-Swivel/dp/B00WAJM3QI
Thanks for this video. What is the size of the swivel link that you use to attach to the top hook?
www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/national-hardware-3252bc-1-2-forged-swivel-galvanized?cm_vc=-10005
@@CollegeHillFarm Thank you. I didn't know that a half-inch was big enough
1/2" is the thickness of the steel it is made out of not the size of the swivel holes.
@@CollegeHillFarm Thanks for the clarification, I appreciate it.
FYI If you replace your 3rd link with a 32 x 2 cylinder and plug it into your HYDRAULICS Then you dont have to keep adjusting it for different implements you just do it from the cab
The 2 point fast hitch from farmall back in the days was by far the most superior
In my opinion our old farmall 140 had the best hitch system ever. It was a simple drive up and drive off. One piece. You could load and unload from the seat of your tractor in a single motion. To bad other manufactures didn't pick up on it.
@@CollegeHillFarm the 140 of yours does it have a 1 point fast hitch?
@@henryofskalitz2228 Yes that was the tractor I grew up with. My brother still owns it. Going on 62 yrs old. Paw bought it new.
@@CollegeHillFarm that's nice to hear old iron is still running strong
Hello, the hook should be dropped into a lower position. You should then push the top link out so that the quick hitch is 90 degrees to the ground. On your mower the quick hitch is designed to grab the lower “A” frame bolt, not the top link pin. Also get some lift arm bushings and top link bushings and that quick hitch will fit nice and easy onto your mower. I just purchased a quick hitch and it’s wonderful. Great Video.
It still will not fit into my implement if it was off and I hand fitted it. Thousands of people have that problem. With the stump jumper attachment there isn't enough room for the hook to fit.
I usually dont leave comments and i’m doing this to be mean. Just from experience. I had A HF hitch about 2 years ago. After about 2-3 weeks it ended up in the scrape metal pile. It’s cheap made in China junk. I understand all implements are quick hitch usable. But with this type of hitch it’s non adjustable match the with of your lift pins. And hooking up your PTO. Is a pain. Everything in the way. What i switch to was Pats quick hitch. It will fit everything. Heavy duty, made in USA. Sill have to get off your tractor to hook up your top link but lots of times you have to get off your tractor anyway. And ALWAYS with a quick hitch use washers and hitch pins on your lift pins!!! Not preaching, just trying to save equipment and maybe a life. Good luck on your farm.
Just get a longer top link and you don't need the giant swivel to make the connection.
The hook is the problem it is too big to fit in my implements.
It looks like you are missing the little sleeves that go over the Cat 1 pins on the implement itself. It’s almost like a bushing sleeve.
never bought any. I have just simple sleeves over the pins so they don't wear. But I sill use hitch pins.
I can not find a part number for that swivel hook at tractor supply
Jerry, sent you an email with the number. Joel
My harbor freight quick hitch wont work on my trac because lower openings where arms go isnt wide enough,,,top link opening is correct width and works ,,is the lower opening on yours same as top link opening,,??
It only works with type 1 and 0 implements. If you have a larger tractor there are a few for type 2 implements. Some of the older tractors the implements are wider at the bottom. I bet you have a category 2 tractor. Category 2 pins won't fit in the bottom.
@@CollegeHillFarm No i have a compact farmtrac,,all other implements have worked,,
I don't know then. I have a couple of implements that won't work with the quick hitch but never with getting the quick hitch to mount to the tractor. @@charliesmith9528
Just came across this. I will definitlely be getting one. Thanks for the instructional
Was having trouble trying to get my top link attached to my new tractor and new to me brush hog, another trip to get a shackle or swivel like that and I’ll be set, thanks for the video!
Pats easy hitch the way to go
With Pat's looks like you would be getting our of the seat all the time to attach the top link. Plus it is about $100 more.
@College Hill Farm 100 bucks more for the harbor freight one,... plus alot of attachments require you to get out to hook PTO up anyway. (Cant use the quick attachment for a post hole auger)The top link is easy. But i get what you're saying just another option for sure.
@@ImDanimal85 Absolutely.
Not all attachments have the same standardized spacing. Also creates a longer distance from pto shaft that could cause problems. Great idea but not a cure all .
no the three-point han-shan smaller tractors is narrower than the 3 point hitch on larger tractor also some of the off brand names are all so different that you are correct in the extra distance from your Implement in a longer PTO however if it is well-balanced it usually doesn't present a problem I'm running hay baler and the PTO shaft is 6ft long with a center bearing and 2 U joints also depends on the RPM you're running on your PTO but all three point inches are not the same only on American-made tractors they are the same on the compact tractors but not on the full-size tractors there are adapters for all
If I read correctly, you stated that you had this for 4 years and no problems. I’ve been thinking about getting one, now I think I will. Thanks for the information.
I wouldn’t rig mine this way it’s dangerous. You’ll also need an adapter bushing kit for the pins on the implements.
I’ve had a quick hitch for over 10 years and it fits properly. No loose connections and no jerry rigging on the top hook pin.
How do you balance a Bush hog... mine is a bad boys and it basically just turns it over
? I don't understand.
Brand new cutter... bad boys brand... it does not cut all that well...front scrapes ground... moved tire up and down at rear what other adjustment can I make
What was that other implemente in the background?
Cultivators. I use those to cultivate corn fields until the corn gets too tall for my tractor tractor. About 8". Then I use a hand rototiller.
I beg to differ because the brush hog mower will chop your a or alfalfa into shorter stocks and making it harder to bail and pick up especially alfalfa we're after it dries it starts flaking if it is cut and lay down and Rose and you turn it over it will not flake is much there is more waste when using a brush hog Tite rotary mower.
All this I know from experience because I do have friends that raise alfalfa or horses in for sale they do a lot of business and if you use a brush hog to mow it it makes way too much waste material that lays on the ground and does not get picked up buy a hay baler or rake or what have you so in short just because a brush hog tight more is more user-friendly in the long run it creates a lot of waste that's why the best thing for a an alfalfa actually is a swather but typically a swather is only a one use piece of equipment and expensive or a sickle mower on the back of a tractor is a lot cheaper and does a more efficient job mowers were made to cut grass not farm with
While what you say has some truth - quite a bit actually. It is sufficient for a small farm that does not have a tractor sufficient to operate a disk mower or hay balers. For the most part here in Kentucky we (our hobby farm) bale grass hay not alfalfa. We are keeping it on the farm. I know families that have done it that way for decades. We do not bale it. We put it up loose. Rake it with a wheel rake and pick it up with a buck rake. We loose some but I don't have to buy a bigger tractor nor expensive baler. We only cut about 4 tons per year Or about 8 roll bail equivalents in 3 cuttings.
What is the exact name or part number for the to link thing you used to attach your bush hog.
www.harborfreight.com/3-point-quick-hitch-27-3-16-inch-clearance-97214.html?ccdenc=eyJjb2RlIjoiODU2MjMwMDUiLCJza3UiOiI5NzIxNCIsImlzIjoiMTI1Ljk5MTAwMDAwMDAwMDAxIn0%3D&campaignid=19560029647&adsetid=150358683492&product=97214&store=3016&gclid=Cj0KCQiAn4SeBhCwARIsANeF9DIUPz-_wHKH_2IoookCj2B7pbal0FvRGdeIn2AH9i3QcLC5cOUcmscaAjXOEALw_wcB
Also the swivel is no longer carried by tractor supply but amazon has them. www.amazon.com/Galvanized-Eye-Swivel/dp/B00WAJM3QI
I want one of these for my 33 hp Kubota. I was hoping you would do an update on how well it holds up over time, like maybe a year.
This is my fifth year. Aside from a little rust it has preformed awesome. Even the swivels have held up that long. I use it on my tiller, bush hog and cultivators. One of the best investments I ever made.
I am old, fat and lazy and appreciate you sharing this video. I will be buying one very soon.
Make sure the one you buy fits correctly. Attaching it like this is dangerous. You’ll also need bushing adapters for the side pins on each implement.
I have one of these quick attach from HF but it doesn't work on all implement's in the instructions that come with it there is a Y shaped adapter that is available thru HF just not in the store u have to call them. Now it works on all implement's!
You should try the Pat's attach system. It's much better in my humble opinion.
This one is working perfect for us. I don't see me changing anytime soon. Thanks for the input!
Top link connection may work for small hobby size equipment but it is supposed to be a fixed connection.. I'd spend more money and get one that works 100%. Backing up to your equipment equipment shouldn't be that difficult. Again ..the top link is designed to be a rigid connection...designed to Push and pull. I'm 72. Do this every day. Good day 2 min. Bad day 5 minutes. Better video than I could have done.
Absolutely this is a category 1 hitch system. The only ground engaging equipment is the rotary cutter, tiller, and cultivators. So most all work in the forward position.
Thanks for the reply. What length is it connected to your brush hog?
Thanks
John
Looks to me like there is little to no room to get in there to connect the PTO. Maybe that's why you didn't do it.
It's a tight fit. But, it is a tight fit anyway with these little compact tractors.
Looks to e like the top link would fit if the other bolt hole in the top link connection on the shredder were used....?
It is just a bolt and not strong enough for the lift like the pin. Also, there is no opening under it.
@@CollegeHillFarm Not as the top link but to move the top link aft. Eather end of that short piece or both can be moved aft by moving the attachment aft. I suspect that's why the extra holes are there.
That might work with the bush hog. I think there still is not enough room for the hook. None of my other attachments have that option anyway. That was a great thought though.
Here are some tips for your HFQH. Keep in mind that it's made in China and also keep in mind that the CAT 1, 2, 3 etc. "standards" allow for a wide variation in implement pin width and centerline height of the third pin. So here is my story with the HFQH. First, the top hook is too close the the QH frame and needs to be extended by 1" to 1-1/4" which is accomplished by welding a block to the back of the hook and redrilling the holes. There are aftermarket ones available for purchase for around $30 if you aren't handy in the fabrication department. Second, the supplied pins that hook the QH to the draft arms are grossly undersized...by 0.100" to be exact. This will cause excessive wear on the swivelly balls of the draft arms and provide a lot of unnecessary slop to the assembly. I bought a set of CAT 1 lower link pins at Farm & Fleet and re-made the lower pins using the purchased ones as a starting point. A little lathe work and fabrication/welding will do the trick. You will also have to drill out the holes in the QH to 57/64" to accommodate the new pins. Third, you need to use bushings on the lower pins of your implement to bring the O.D. of the pins from 7/8" to around 1-7/16" so they fit snugly in the lower hooks of the QH. You have to do this with ANY QH you use, Land Pride, iMatch, SpeeCo, Lee Agra, etc.. I made such modifications to my HFQH and it has served me well for over 3 years with no other issues. Also, in order to keep the "quick" in the QH, you need to adjust your implements to match one setting on the QH...this is only a concern if you use (usually) older implements from a variety of manufacturers as I stated before, the "standards" for 3PH's are very loose at best and allowed manufacturers MUCH leeway in their designs.
When hooking up your implements, lengthen the top link sufficiently so that it is mostly vertical with the centerline of the lower pins, back up to the implement aiming the top hook into the upper pin of the implement, engage the top hook, and raise the 3PH and if you have everything adjusted properly, the attachment will hook up perfectly, flop your levers down and go.
My method is quicker and simpler and cheaper than all that. But Thanks for the suggestion. My method was intended to help those people who can't weld. I have welded plenty of things before for implements. But most people that would buy this would never have a welder in their hand before in their life.
@@CollegeHillFarm No problem...I'm a purist and have equipment and know-how to make such modifications so I opted for that route. I have also found that the more you spend on a QH, the less messing around you have to do to make it work as designed. i bought a Farm Hand by Lee Agra for $700 that required "zero" input on my behalf to work. It is made entirely in the USA with USA materials, so it's one of those pay me now or pay me later situations. If you don't want to pony up the $$$ then prepare to spend some time and money to get stuff to work.
No worries. It was just a matter of money for me. I would have a 40HP John Deere or Massey Furguson instead of a 22hp Mahindra too. But the truth is there isn't an American made tractor any more. They might be assembled in the US but most of their parts and engines come from outside the country. But I am satisfied with what I have. It does what I need to do every morning when I go out and start it up.
This video help me I just got my quick hitch put back on after I had a loader put on mine tractor
Thanks for the reply about the swivel link. I am concerned that my pto shaft on my Betstco 37" flail mower might be too short (31.5") fully extended when I add the extra 4" needed for the quick hitch. I have a John Deere 1023e and I had to extend the pto quite a bit to attach it to my tractor.
How long is your pto when using the quick hitch to your brush hog?
Thanks
John
It adds about 4" to 5" to the pto shaft. All of my shafts had the extra length with no problem. Every tractor would be different for the length of the pto shaft. If you have an extra 4 or 5 inches on your pto shaft it should be good that is when the flail mower is all the way down. As far as how long mine is I don't think that would help you. If you just mark with a sharpie where the shaft is when it is fully down then take it off and see how much you have left before it comes off. If you have a foot left you are probably ok. Anything under a foot and I would also be concerned and want a longer shaft. The only one that came close to this was my till. It had such a short shaft to begin with. But when attached it is in 8" or so. That has been enough so far.
Couldn't you extend your top link, then the quick attach top hook would hook up
no it wont fit at all.
@@CollegeHillFarm no doubt. I found that out too. Got one from HD last weekend, and saw how enormous those hooks are... way too big for cat1. So I took it back. Bad design.
Have you had any need of bushings?
not really. I have to replace a clip pin every now and again. The hitch is such that it can't come off of the quick hitch even if both clip pins came out.
You are missing bushings on the "fingers". They are 7/8" ID and 1 7/16" OD so your implements will lock in without slop.
Has never been an issue so far
I'm new at 3pt. but not tractors. Why can't the two bottom catches be attached to the arms instead of that frame? Another, why not have the two bottom catches spring loaded so they snap shut after catching the pins, and have a lever to open when detaching? A bar can hold the arms width.
it is just made that way. It will spring shut but sometimes it don't so I just open them. The frame is the quick hitch itself. Once you try putting on a 3 pt set of arms on a piece of equipment without the quick hitch and always having to be perfect on the placement and adjust the sway control between every implement you will see the value.
Dave Saam
That's what Pat's quick hitch is, I believe. I don't own it though. I still muscle the implements around.
The John Deere has sliding/telescoping lift arms to assist hitching up the bottom links. I use a hydraulic top link, which makes hitching up the top really easy.
They are spring loaded. That’s the way I hook mine up. You also need a bushing adapter kit for the side pins. All 3 points must make contact and fit snugly. Otherwise it’s an accident waiting to happen.
Not ever used one of these but am looking in to getting one. One question I have is, what keeps the top/center link connection from disengaging from the quick attach. Nothing there to hold it in place. For instance, pushing dirt or rocks with a blade turned backwards. Looks to me like that top/center connection would jump out?
yes it would. To use a blade that you might use in reverse you have to connect straight to the 3 pt hitch. I have to do that with my hay rake as well and my potato plow.
If it by chance come apart on one side pto shaft is ruined on the tractor and the bushog this is more work than doing it the right way
8 years never came off. 5 Different implements.
@@CollegeHillFarm I think a lazy man invented the 3 point hitch but by chance it comes apart tractor and bush hog ruined work on a steep enough slope I guarantee it will un latch
I agree it might. We have plenty of hills. But it hasn't in 8 yrs. To be honest I have lost a pin or two with it not coming loose. I check it every time I use it. If a pin comes out then the sleeves would slide off too. Its all a gamble and a maintenance issue.
harbor freight has something to help with the top attachment point. I gave up because i don't have time to play with the hitch. I recommend checking another TH-camr named "JIMeRIG" that made a add on modifications to your hitch. you'll eliminate that tractor supply part and actually set the quick hitch to drive up and hitch up in one try then flip the two lower levers to lock up the bottom.
I found on online to modify it and with pins instead of bolts from Ken's Bolt on Hooks.
Y'all got yourselves a nice place there. Looks like you put some sweat in to it too
seems if you already set your PTO shaft length before you bought a quick hitch, then your PTO shaft might be too short. Did you have trouble like that?
no, most pto shafts have the extra 2". But now if some people bought their pto shaft just exactly long enough their might be a problem. Like they bought a 36"-41" shaft and they had to have the full 41" then they might not have the extra 2".
Does HF sell the adaptors for the pins?
No. I have added long hitch pins and that has fixed any problems I had. They work better than the snap ring lynch pins I have been using. I have never had it slip off the pins in 6 years. That plowing, cultivatin, tilling, and bushhogging.
I bought one of these and found it to be limited as to which emplements it will fit because it is set at a fixed width.
If you need it wider, just buy longer side pins for the implements. TSC, ASC, Rual King and the others all have them. I've done this with my box blade. Works so much nicer now. Hope this helps.
This is not based on my experience, just from watching several videos on quick hitches. Your top hook on the. quick hitch, should be all the way down, and hook the lower bar on the top of the mowers hitch. Also adjust the top link out farther for more reach.
The bottom locking levers are spring loaded, so you can connect without rotating the top latch levers to open them. Then you lock them open, as you demonstrated, when unhooking the mower. Hope this helps.
Thousands of people have this problem with their implement. It's not just me. It is all in the way you implements are made. That's why the video has over 300k views.
I ‘m building a fence using an auger during bush hogging season, which wasn’t planned that way, it kinda just turned out that way. I don’t know if you’ve ever hooked up an auger to a 3 pt but it is a bitch and I hate unhooking it, then hooking up the bush hog then same thing over again . I’d just about rather take a beating. That looks like something that would help me out tremendously. Thanks so much for letting me know about it. I have 20 acres in the foothills of the Ozark in Arkansas . With the heat & humidity, every little shortcut that makes life easier is a blessing. From your accent, you sound like your from the south also , so I bet you know what I’m talking about. If your like me , you wouldn’t trade this country life for nothing......I’m going to Harbor Freight this week and pick me one up. Thanks again.
Southeast Kentucky. I like living rural no matter the challenges.
you need to make the quick hitch straight up and down to get it to hook up on the top hitch
The hook itself is larger than the hole it would go into. That will not work. This was the only solution without some sort of welding.
Hey, just picked up one at harbor Freight. Couldn't find a double eye swivel the size of the one you have. Wonder if you could steer me in the right direction? Thanks
Tractor Supply www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/national-hardware-3252bc-1-2-forged-swivel-galvanized?cm_vc=-10005
From another "well rounded and experienced" farmer...I have watched dozens of quick hitch videos, all of them opting to either not use the hitch or having complicated solutions often involving welding. Your solution is simple, economical and easy to implement. Kudos! Great job! and thank you. I will definitely use mine now.