Be sure to see the links and information in the description. If you like the content and want to see more of it consider subscribing to the channel. It's free and helps the channel grow. Thanks for your support! Subscribe here -- th-cam.com/users/BackyardMaine
This is what I love about the internet. Being able to listen to what someone with 40 years of experience has to say. It's nice to see the differences between our electric systems, here in Argentina our outlets are pretty different, but they're back wired.
I remember back in 1970s trying to ask electricians some simple questions about wiring and they would not tell me. They would act as if their telling me any electrical information would cause the ' Great Electrical Engineer Police ' to come down out of the sky and take away any knowledge and training they possessed. Plus their job. The internet is fabulous, you can easily ask away any stupid question you might have.
Great information. I have found back stab connections to be the most common problem with switch and outlet failure, and I think the method should be stopped.
Excellent video. I had no idea about the back wiring method although I have not used the back stabbing method since about 1969. This of course was decades before youtube was available. I had two different circuits fail due to arcing in back stab connections, so I made a decision to never do them again. As a "handyman" instead of a certified pro, I ran across many backstab connections in the decades since, and I always redid the connection when I found them even though sometimes there was insufficient wire left to redo them, forcing me to run new wiring to replace them. Thanks for a great video. I am 76 and still going strong and learning every day. Keep up the good work.
I'm a homeowner and personally always replace any residential receptacles with commercial grade receptacles any time I have to pull plates off (ie. painting). Changing 4-6 outlets isn't a big cost, and they are a lot nicer. I prefer backwiring, it's fast and easy, but not prone to failure like backstabbing res outlets.
I knew the diffrence between back wiring and back stabbing. I agree, the back stabbing method is bad. I am not an electrician but I am a 30 year DIY home owner and I have had to replaced two outlets that have failed and both of them were wired up using the back stabbing method.
Your video is very clear and concise and helpful. Thank you for your contribution. I subscribed. It only took me one trip to Home Depot and an inspection of outlets on the shelves to understand the difference between the backstabbed connection and the back wired method. My home has backstabbed outlets. I was immediately disinterested in having those anymore because I know as a mechanical engineer that the Barb approach is not going to be as secure as a screw using clamping pressure to retain the wire. Furthermore those designs are a higher risk of having faulty Dimensions from manufacturing processing that could result in a poor connection, whereas a back wired design only relies on a simple screw head and the plates to ensure sufficient contact force. Probably the last time I did any outlet wiring was when I was in my twenties and that was 40 years ago. It was new to me to learn about the backstabbed design when I started the process of inspection after I experienced unstable and incorrect voltage levels in my 33-year-old home. When I went to Home Depot and saw the commercial grade units having a back loaded design I immediately decided that was right for me. It eliminates the need to mess with the wires from their existing condition yet provides me the ability to use the clamp load of the screw heads.
Thank you! Great comment as well. I try to provide value with my videos and I love hearing positive feedback for intelligent people like yourself. I'll try to keep them coming.
How's she goin'? This is a very good video John. Excellent info and you may have prevented a home from burning down with the info you provided. Thanks and take care!!!
Thanks Mike.. I'm doing well I hope all is well with you my friend. I'm kind of leaning into the electrical content since it been the most popular subject on the channel. Great to hear from you.
I worked as an industrial electrician/automation technician and I appreciate all your do and show on your channel. Great stuff for sure!! @@BackyardMaine
As an electrician for over 50 years "now retired " I have found that most failures are caused by poor installation practices and the over loading of circuits. In over 50 years I never went back to make a repair on my own work. I worked slower than most and did not get in a hurry I tried my best to do it right the first time. I am not bragging but that's a pretty good record.
I like trying to not have to go back for the same issue. Ill take different failures all day, as that SHOULD mean that I had it dialed in initially. Should..... Sometimes, those stress fractures just mess up an early off Friday...
Thank you. You can but it's not easy to get the hook connected without removing the connection plate. They are really designed for a straight piece of wire. I have had great result using them as designed. As long as they are tight you should never have a problem.
Just a side note but since the NFPA-70-2017, NEC-2017, receptacles need to be installed with all connections torqued to manufacturer specification, usually this is between 12-16 in.lbs.
The biggest problem with the back stab connection is the very small amount of surface contact area, which will obviously limit current flow, whereas there is a far greater degree of surface contact area available when the wire is properly wrapped around the hold down screw. The other big problem has to do with the limited amount of pressure applied to the wire by the contact surface, which can also lead to current flow failure, whereas again the hold down screw enables a great deal more continuous pressure applied to the contact surface, virtually eliminating connection failure. The goal is to create what is called a gas tight connection, where very few oxygen molecules exist between the metal surfaces of the contact area, allowing for maximum electron flow.
I've loved those commercial, back-wired receptacles ever since I discovered them when rewiring part of my old 1950's house about 20 years ago. They cost a bit more, but for a DIYer, they're just so easy! My only complaint about them it's that they're getting hard to find without special ordering. The Home Depot stores around here used to carry lots of commercial-, industrial-, and even hospital-grade devices. But lately they seem to have mostly residential with just a few higher-grade receptacles in the most basic types. (For example, they'll have 15A but not 20A.) Lowes is sometimes slightly better, but not much. I'm in California. Are they still easy to find where you are?
I find the same thing here in Maine. HD and Lowe’s had them but not the boxes of 10. I think you can order them online though and the electrical supplier has them which works for me but a DIYer would be out of luck. I lived in Sacramento back in the 80s when I was in the USAF. Still have some relatives out in the Fresno area.
@@BackyardMaine The contractor who's building a new shop for me is even having trouble finding some of the back-wirable stuff at his electrical supplier for some reason. Thought he usually does residential work, so maybe he just didn't know what to ask for. They did have the 3-phase load center I wanted, so I know they can get commercial / industrial stuff. I have a good friend who was stationed at Mather 2 or 3 times in the '70s and '80s, and I think he was part of the team that closed it down in the early '90s. I moved to the Sacramento area last year, after 30 years down in the Bay Area. The South Bay has gotten very crowded and congested, so now that I'm no longer working I decided to get out. And I had friends up around Sac, so I ended up here. So far I'm liking everything but the summer heat.
I loved living in Sacramento well actually North Highlands. I was stationed at McClellan AFB from 84-88. I went over to Mather and Beal a few times to help out with electrical problems. Yes, the summer heat is something in Sacramento but it's not humid so it's more bearable. I remember driving two hour to go skiing up in the Sierra Nevada Mountains and washing my car in short sleeves on the same day. That doesn't happen here in Maine. @@laurawerner
All 15 amp receptacles are actually rated for 20 amps current pass-thru, so unless you have something that needs the special sideways tab on the plug, just use the 15 amp outlets.
On the 20amp receptacle shown on 3:54 the type of receptacle has a pressure plate do you install wire with a hook? please look at video it is different from the one that was shown wired
When a pressure plate is used (back wire option) the a hook is not needed or recommended. If side wiring with screw with no pressure plate then a hook is needed.
@@BackyardMaine Wonderful! Thank you! Looking forward to it. Also, I've not been able to find stranded Romex. Does it even exist? If not, why not? 12 awg solid is difficult to work with.
Do you ever recommend wrapping the side wire terminals on the outlets or switches with electrical tape? My house had them wrapped by the electrician. Just curious, thank you for your awesome videos, very well explained and entertaining.
Thank you! I don't wrap the terminal with electrical tape. The tape gets hard over time and when it comes time to replace the devices it's messy and difficult. I don't even tape with metal boxes but it's probably not a bad idea especially for the DIYer.
Hey John I have one of those LED overhead lights in my house that flickers after a while when it’s on. Turning the light on and off makes it stop then it’ll start flickering again after 5 or so mins. Any thoughts? No bulb to swap.
I’ve had that happen but with LED fixtures and also the light bulbs as well. The electronics that feed and control the LED(s) are have a problem. When you turn it off and back on you’re essentially reboot the light. Sadly the fix is replacing the lamp or fixture.
White wire to silver, Black wire to black, if you haven't taken the tabs off, such as to make one of the outlets switched while the other remains constant hot, the positions don't really matter.
With commercial-grade back wiring sockets, is there ever a risk of inserting the wire too far and pinching some insulation in between the contact plates, which might prevent putting enough pressure on the copper to get a good contact?
Yes for sure. You want to make sure to strip the wire to the correct length. You don't want to pinch insulation in the connection because that would cause premature failure.
Surprised to see you're using a Phillips head. Many DYIers already have a Robertson bit in their toolbox, which works so much better. The next step up is the hybrid Robertson / flathead, but that's probably not already in your toolbox.
That's not a phillips head. Its basic the same head as the Robertson but its made by Ideal. I actually like it better and have several of them. Combo Head Screwdriver - amzn.to/3NgKvCd
A NEMA 6-20P is a 20A 250v receptacle. On a receptacle like this you will have two hot wires and a ground fed from a two pole 20A breaker. There is no neutral wire.
My house was built in the 50s and uses residential grade plugs. I've had to replace so many because they wear out and won't hold the plug in anymore. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the commercial outlets make connection with two pieces of metal pressed together by a spring instead of just a single piece folded over. Outlets are such a small portion of the cost of a fairly cheap project, it makes no sense to get the inferior product just to save a few nickels. The back wiring is much less hassle than j-hooks too. J-hooks look easy with free floating wires outside the box, but trying to wrestle them into position inside a box when they're attached at the back can get annoying.
I would like your opinion. I've always used a #1 Robertson for screwing side terminals of receptacles. Is a combo driver that much better? Never had the chance to try one and since I retired my budget is, let's just say small.
With the commercial receptacle. Is it okay to still use the side wiring method. If seems like it would place even pressure on those metal plates if a wire were back wired in. The screw would pull up that bottom plate into the brass metal.
And the nice thing about the side-wiring is that you can get six (6) full circuit connections on one receptacle without double-tapping. 8 if you double-tap. In a single-gang box. I hope you hear the sarcasm.
I would defiantly go with the side wire connections. You can use a torque screw driver to make sure you get the proper tightness. Hubbell makes a new device called the Edge Connect. They are UL listed and tested to preform better in high vibration environments than other connections. I made a video on those as well if you want to check it out. th-cam.com/video/EXauKblaA3k/w-d-xo.html
@@michaelstora70 I was saying that the J-hooks are more reliable than the back stab or quick connects you see on 15A receptacles. The back wiring connections are very reliable and a good choice especially on commercial grade devices. I think either option when done right will give you a reliable connection.
Sure.. Because someone connect a 20A cord and plug connected piece of equipment which would overload the circuit and cause the breaker to trip. The breaker is a protective device and should only trip when there's a problem not as part of normal operation.
When backwiring a commercial grade receptacle it’s not necessary to use any particular side of the screw as I noticed you did. I know. Old habits. lol. I have about the same time in as you. (34 years) Also w back wire terminals I’ve cannnected more than 2 wires to the device. This saves splicing and thereby eliminating wire nuts and possibly able to reduce box size. I have not pigtailed receptacle wires for many years on even regular residential grade receptacles with only two wires. (The old falacy of not supposed to break the neutral) This aves time and $ and when done correctly I believe will not compromise the installation. Cheers.
True, it's not necessary to use a particular side of the screw, but if you use the side that follows the clockwise rotation of the screw threads it helps to keep the wire in instead of possibly pushing it out by going against the thread rotation.
@@BackyardMaine I think you misunderstood, I was commenting on davepaquet regarding back wiring, not side wiring. There are 2 slots for the wire to enter, as you know.
A question just occurred to me while watching you discussing stab connections on receptacles, which I never use. However, I *do* use some Wago connectors that use a similar push in pressure connection, though they do have the lever to increase the pressure. I assume the Wago connection is better, hopefully more reliable, less prone to pulling out (especially if you wrap with e tape to prevent the lever opening unintentionally. In the other regard, amperage capacity, I wonder if the Wagos carry the rated amperage more reliably, whether when installed correctly, or as commonly mis-installed or pulled somewhat out of the correct installation orientation. I hope it’s clear what I am getting at. So, are you aware of any testing that compares these two methods of connection, and/ or do you have any relevant subjective experience?
I have never done side by side testing. I was very skeptical when I first started hearing about the WAGO 221. From my years of experience I didn't trust stab connections on 120v. I have some testing on a well pump which is a tasking circuit for connections because the higher current, inrush, and frequent cycling. They have been connected for over a year now with no issues. I have a couple of videos where I cut open a stab connection to show why I think they are so unreliable. I have a thermal camera on order so I will be doing some comparison videos in the near future.
I don't have the Milwaukee ECX driver so I'm not sure. I use the Ideal 35-204 which works great for not only the receptacle and switch screws but also the box screws as well. I have a link in the description of this video to the tool. This link may work as well. amzn.to/3uNBxWV
How to disconnect a backstabbed wire: I usually like to demonstrate to customers who have had their receptacles backfired. I take the receptacle in one hand and I grab the wires in the other and I simply twist and pull. The wires generally pop right out after a few twists. 😏
I like them for lighting and low load receptacle circuit. When it comes to the Leviton Decora Edge they seem pretty decent but time will tell home they hold up. Hubbell makes one too but they aren't available at your big box store. The Hubbell Edge Connect is a new design and I would use it in my home.
I'm not sure I understand your question. If there is no back wiring option then it won't be possible to back wire the device.. If the device offers side wiring and back stab connections then I recommend using the side wiring option.
Sorry-Off the subject, but I was watching a video on a channel “Hannah vacuums” from the UK and it appears that she plugs her vacuum in and then flips a switch on the faceplate. What’s up with that? To me it seems like that would be a good idea in the US.
If you ever have issues and you have back stabbed devices just go ahead and change them over to side wired. Back stabbed is a terrible idea, a problem waiting to happen and in my opinion only done by people who don’t know better or by electricians who want to save a minute or two making up the device to increase their profit.
I lived in an old trailer home and all it had were cheap back stabber connections. There were no other options to the outlets. On top of that they were all wired from outlet to outlet. Lots of connections relying on a knife- edge of connection . I made sure anything that had serious amperage ( refrigerator, washer ) had newer outlets but a lot of lesser amp outlets I didn't change, such as bedrooms. One time I needed to temporarily hook up a window air conditioner and it was on a line about 5 back- stabbed connections from the power box. I was watching all the outlets in between to make sure none of them were smoking.
Every time I wire a back-wire outlet I wonder why no manufacturer has modified the ground connection to make it function like the back-wiring of the hot and neutral wires. Sure, it doesn’t take long to make a j-hook for the ground, but after 200 outlets and switches in a larger house, I would welcome the time saved.
And just like the back stab connections having problems with working loose or failing, why on earth would you want to use wago clips, in my mind, the same issues!
Question: If a clueless homeowner accidentally dumped water on an outdoor receptacle and it stops working and they tell an electrician about the problem and he tells them to shut off the main then remove the cover and check the wiring, wouldn't this b dangerous? No advice to use a tester to ensure the power is OFF first.
The power should be off and the circuit tested before anyone does any electrical work and also only take on projects that you feel comfortable with doing yourself. Sometimes hiring a professional is the best plan.
Why oh why do they make ground screws different? Sometimes a different tool is needed. While the power wires can be pushed in and screwed - never the ground screw. But almost always won't allow 2 wires connected to it.
There not. The code and the manufacturers do not specify orientation. I prefer ground down but the are six orientations that are acceptable. I made a video detailing this as well.
Actually no you don't. The screws are a second option for connecting the wires but play no roll in securing the backstab connection. I have a video where I cut one open and show this. Its at the 2:10 mark if you want to skip ahead. th-cam.com/video/EXauKblaA3k/w-d-xo.html
for beginners??? Being an electrician is not a hobby… it’s not something you learn on Mr. Rogers neighborhood in kindergarten.. One of my favorite supporting actors, Frank Silvera, who played The bandit that killed Paul Newman in the movie hombre, he was electrocuted / killed at his home, working on his garbage disposal..
There are a lot of different ways to pick up knowledge. Like it or not people add and replace receptacles and switches in their homes. I give them the knowledge to do it right. But I am sure you never went on youtube to learn something that could save you some money. Maybe something like changing your brake rotors and pads?
I appreciate what you’re doing, I am a retired electrician/HVAC tech. since I am a retired electrician, I would never encourage someone to go into an electrical project that did not have any electrical experience.. risky business.. you did answer a question I always had about the direction you mount a receptacle, ground, facing up or down. I put all mine facing down, I didn’t care what the NEC said, especially in my laundry room, and behind my refrigerator, the plug on those appliances is a 90° angle plug.. I do have a question. Lightning rod , mounted on the roof of the house. Do you ground it to your existing buried ground rods? Possibly energizing your panel board with a lightning strike? I was sitting outside with my wife one day, watching a storm approach, and we saw a lightning strike my house, it hit the cable television cable and damaged the cable box, and the HDMI port, on the back of my television.. I have been wanting to put a lightning rod on my roof grounded to something else other than my two buried ground rods that my panel board is grounded to..
This is what it says in the NEC. 250.106 Lightning Protection Systems The lightning protection system ground terminals shall be bonded to the building or structure grounding electrode system. Informational Note No. 1: See 250.60 for use of strike termination devices. For further information, see NFPA 780-2017, Standard for the Installation of Lightning Protection Systems, which contains detailed information on grounding, bonding, and side-flash distance from lightning protection systems.@@Jodyrides
Be sure to see the links and information in the description. If you like the content and want to see more of it consider subscribing to the channel. It's free and helps the channel grow. Thanks for your support! Subscribe here -- th-cam.com/users/BackyardMaine
Excellent thank you
@@arenta9862 My pleasure.
This is what I love about the internet. Being able to listen to what someone with 40 years of experience has to say. It's nice to see the differences between our electric systems, here in Argentina our outlets are pretty different, but they're back wired.
I remember back in 1970s trying to ask electricians some simple questions about wiring and they would not tell me.
They would act as if their telling me any electrical information would cause the ' Great Electrical Engineer Police ' to come down out of the sky and take away any knowledge and training they possessed. Plus their job.
The internet is fabulous, you can easily ask away any stupid question you might have.
Great information. I have found back stab connections to be the most common problem with switch and outlet failure, and I think the method should be stopped.
Manufacturers need to ABSOLUTELY stop making that option!!😮
Excellent video. I had no idea about the back wiring method although I have not used the back stabbing method since about 1969. This of course was decades before youtube was available. I had two different circuits fail due to arcing in back stab connections, so I made a decision to never do them again. As a "handyman" instead of a certified pro, I ran across many backstab connections in the decades since, and I always redid the connection when I found them even though sometimes there was insufficient wire left to redo them, forcing me to run new wiring to replace them. Thanks for a great video. I am 76 and still going strong and learning every day. Keep up the good work.
Thank you my friend. I just retired a couple of years ago but not I have a new hobby making videos. lol. Turned 60 last fall.
Excellent video to keep home owners out of trouble. Thank you for your tutorials.
Thank you and thanks for watching.
Simple "Thanks " for your video/clips
My pleasure. Thanks for watching
I'm a homeowner and personally always replace any residential receptacles with commercial grade receptacles any time I have to pull plates off (ie. painting). Changing 4-6 outlets isn't a big cost, and they are a lot nicer. I prefer backwiring, it's fast and easy, but not prone to failure like backstabbing res outlets.
Your videos are the best ..very educational.
Glad you think so! Thanks so much. I keep them coming. 👍
Well spoken and easy to follow.
Thank you.
I knew the diffrence between back wiring and back stabbing. I agree, the back stabbing method is bad. I am not an electrician but I am a 30 year DIY home owner and I have had to replaced two outlets that have failed and both of them were wired up using the back stabbing method.
I'm glad I found you, John. Excellent videos!
That's great to hear. Thanks for watching and your kind words. I'm going to start posting once a week if possible. I got lazy over the summer. lol
Great, timely video. Getting ready to wire my shop soon.
Glad it helped. 👍
Awesome training video!
Thank you!
Your video is very clear and concise and helpful. Thank you for your contribution. I subscribed. It only took me one trip to Home Depot and an inspection of outlets on the shelves to understand the difference between the backstabbed connection and the back wired method. My home has backstabbed outlets. I was immediately disinterested in having those anymore because I know as a mechanical engineer that the Barb approach is not going to be as secure as a screw using clamping pressure to retain the wire. Furthermore those designs are a higher risk of having faulty Dimensions from manufacturing processing that could result in a poor connection, whereas a back wired design only relies on a simple screw head and the plates to ensure sufficient contact force. Probably the last time I did any outlet wiring was when I was in my twenties and that was 40 years ago. It was new to me to learn about the backstabbed design when I started the process of inspection after I experienced unstable and incorrect voltage levels in my 33-year-old home. When I went to Home Depot and saw the commercial grade units having a back loaded design I immediately decided that was right for me. It eliminates the need to mess with the wires from their existing condition yet provides me the ability to use the clamp load of the screw heads.
Thank you! Great comment as well. I try to provide value with my videos and I love hearing positive feedback for intelligent people like yourself. I'll try to keep them coming.
Thanks for video you did on how to curve a wire around the receptacle's side screws.
It's my pleasure. I have lots of electrical content on the channel. I have a recent video on wire stripper functions that you might find helpful.
How's she goin'? This is a very good video John. Excellent info and you may have prevented a home from burning down with the info you provided. Thanks and take care!!!
Thanks Mike.. I'm doing well I hope all is well with you my friend. I'm kind of leaning into the electrical content since it been the most popular subject on the channel. Great to hear from you.
I worked as an industrial electrician/automation technician and I appreciate all your do and show on your channel. Great stuff for sure!! @@BackyardMaine
As an electrician for over 50 years "now retired " I have found that most failures are caused by poor installation practices and the over loading of circuits. In over 50 years I never went back to make a repair on my own work. I worked slower than most and did not get in a hurry I tried my best to do it right the first time. I am not bragging but that's a pretty good record.
Most mistakes are made when people are pushed and rushed
👍🏻
I like trying to not have to go back for the same issue.
Ill take different failures all day, as that SHOULD mean that I had it dialed in initially.
Should..... Sometimes, those stress fractures just mess up an early off Friday...
Hi John. The link for the combo head screwdriver actually takes you to the wire strippers. -Ed
Thanks Ed. I must have screwed up with the copy paste. I'll go fix that now.
Love your videos because they are so informative and easy to follow
Thank you.. Much appreciated.
Informative and to the point! Question….can I “J” wire on a commercial receptacle? Great video John! Thanks!
Thank you. You can but it's not easy to get the hook connected without removing the connection plate. They are really designed for a straight piece of wire. I have had great result using them as designed. As long as they are tight you should never have a problem.
Thank you for such excellent information. I have learned some valuable lessons from your videos. 👍
Great to hear! Thanks for watching
Thank you, I learned something new about receptacles, I didn't know about those details, Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Just a side note but since the NFPA-70-2017, NEC-2017, receptacles need to be installed with all connections torqued to manufacturer specification, usually this is between 12-16 in.lbs.
Great stuff
(The video not the spray foam)😊
Thank you so much..
I did not know the difference between back stabbing and back wiring. Thank you!
So happy to help. Thanks for watching.
Thank you again for sharing your knowledge and experience.
My pleasure! Thanks for watching.
The biggest problem with the back stab connection is the very small amount of surface contact area, which will obviously limit current flow, whereas there is a far greater degree of surface contact area available when the wire is properly wrapped around the hold down screw. The other big problem has to do with the limited amount of pressure applied to the wire by the contact surface, which can also lead to current flow failure, whereas again the hold down screw enables a great deal more continuous pressure applied to the contact surface, virtually eliminating connection failure. The goal is to create what is called a gas tight connection, where very few oxygen molecules exist between the metal surfaces of the contact area, allowing for maximum electron flow.
I've loved those commercial, back-wired receptacles ever since I discovered them when rewiring part of my old 1950's house about 20 years ago. They cost a bit more, but for a DIYer, they're just so easy!
My only complaint about them it's that they're getting hard to find without special ordering. The Home Depot stores around here used to carry lots of commercial-, industrial-, and even hospital-grade devices. But lately they seem to have mostly residential with just a few higher-grade receptacles in the most basic types. (For example, they'll have 15A but not 20A.) Lowes is sometimes slightly better, but not much. I'm in California. Are they still easy to find where you are?
I find the same thing here in Maine. HD and Lowe’s had them but not the boxes of 10. I think you can order them online though and the electrical supplier has them which works for me but a DIYer would be out of luck.
I lived in Sacramento back in the 80s when I was in the USAF. Still have some relatives out in the Fresno area.
@@BackyardMaine The contractor who's building a new shop for me is even having trouble finding some of the back-wirable stuff at his electrical supplier for some reason. Thought he usually does residential work, so maybe he just didn't know what to ask for. They did have the 3-phase load center I wanted, so I know they can get commercial / industrial stuff.
I have a good friend who was stationed at Mather 2 or 3 times in the '70s and '80s, and I think he was part of the team that closed it down in the early '90s. I moved to the Sacramento area last year, after 30 years down in the Bay Area. The South Bay has gotten very crowded and congested, so now that I'm no longer working I decided to get out. And I had friends up around Sac, so I ended up here. So far I'm liking everything but the summer heat.
I loved living in Sacramento well actually North Highlands. I was stationed at McClellan AFB from 84-88. I went over to Mather and Beal a few times to help out with electrical problems. Yes, the summer heat is something in Sacramento but it's not humid so it's more bearable. I remember driving two hour to go skiing up in the Sierra Nevada Mountains and washing my car in short sleeves on the same day. That doesn't happen here in Maine. @@laurawerner
All 15 amp receptacles are actually rated for 20 amps current pass-thru, so unless you have something that needs the special sideways tab on the plug, just use the 15 amp outlets.
@@laurawernerNot as bad as Zona, but you're closer to earthquakes, to say nothing of woke politics!!👎
Thank you. Very useful info.
Glad it was helpful!
On the 20amp receptacle shown on 3:54 the type of receptacle has a pressure plate do you install wire with a hook? please look at video it is different from the one that was shown wired
When a pressure plate is used (back wire option) the a hook is not needed or recommended. If side wiring with screw with no pressure plate then a hook is needed.
Very well done video, thank you! It would have been good if you had also shown how to attach stranded wire to the outlet.
I keep that in mind for the next one.
@@BackyardMaine Wonderful! Thank you! Looking forward to it.
Also, I've not been able to find stranded Romex. Does it even exist? If not, why not? 12 awg solid is difficult to work with.
@@CoconutPalmPictures I'm not sure what the reasoning is but 14, 12, and 10 gauge ROMEX is only offered in solid core wire.
Do you ever recommend wrapping the side wire terminals on the outlets or switches with electrical tape? My house had them wrapped by the electrician. Just curious, thank you for your awesome videos, very well explained and entertaining.
Thank you! I don't wrap the terminal with electrical tape. The tape gets hard over time and when it comes time to replace the devices it's messy and difficult. I don't even tape with metal boxes but it's probably not a bad idea especially for the DIYer.
@@BackyardMaine Thank you. Looking forward to more videos. Best wishes and good luck with the channel.
My inspector HATES it when homeowners wrap the receptacles with tape. It doesn't result in a fail, but he tells them to remove it.
Hey John I have one of those LED overhead lights in my house that flickers after a while when it’s on. Turning the light on and off makes it stop then it’ll start flickering again after 5 or so mins. Any thoughts? No bulb to swap.
I’ve had that happen but with LED fixtures and also the light bulbs as well. The electronics that feed and control the LED(s) are have a problem. When you turn it off and back on you’re essentially reboot the light. Sadly the fix is replacing the lamp or fixture.
@@BackyardMaine Rats I figured as much. I have two of these lights in my house. I’ll do some research. Thanks
I knew the difference between the back stabbing and back wiring 😊
Do I use the top or bottom, silver and black mount screws? On the receptacle.
It makes no difference. They are connect through a little tab that connects the two screws and feeds each receptacle (top and bottom) of a duplex.
White wire to silver, Black wire to black, if you haven't taken the tabs off, such as to make one of the outlets switched while the other remains constant hot, the positions don't really matter.
With commercial-grade back wiring sockets, is there ever a risk of inserting the wire too far and pinching some insulation in between the contact plates, which might prevent putting enough pressure on the copper to get a good contact?
Yes for sure. You want to make sure to strip the wire to the correct length. You don't want to pinch insulation in the connection because that would cause premature failure.
Surprised to see you're using a Phillips head. Many DYIers already have a Robertson bit in their toolbox, which works so much better. The next step up is the hybrid Robertson / flathead, but that's probably not already in your toolbox.
That's not a phillips head. Its basic the same head as the Robertson but its made by Ideal. I actually like it better and have several of them. Combo Head Screwdriver - amzn.to/3NgKvCd
@@BackyardMaine My bad. It is the hybrid. Just looked like a philips from the side.
Good information thanks.
My pleasure.. Thanks for watching.
I am putting in a window unit, air/ heater, uses a 6-20p , is this a 20 amp outlet?? Same as 220??
A NEMA 6-20P is a 20A 250v receptacle. On a receptacle like this you will have two hot wires and a ground fed from a two pole 20A breaker. There is no neutral wire.
My house was built in the 50s and uses residential grade plugs. I've had to replace so many because they wear out and won't hold the plug in anymore. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the commercial outlets make connection with two pieces of metal pressed together by a spring instead of just a single piece folded over. Outlets are such a small portion of the cost of a fairly cheap project, it makes no sense to get the inferior product just to save a few nickels. The back wiring is much less hassle than j-hooks too. J-hooks look easy with free floating wires outside the box, but trying to wrestle them into position inside a box when they're attached at the back can get annoying.
I would like your opinion. I've always used a #1 Robertson for screwing side terminals of receptacles.
Is a combo driver that much better? Never had the chance to try one and since I retired my budget is, let's just say small.
I think what you have will perform about as well as the combo head so I wouldn't spend the money.
With the commercial receptacle. Is it okay to still use the side wiring method. If seems like it would place even pressure on those metal plates if a wire were back wired in. The screw would pull up that bottom plate into the brass metal.
The back wiring method is very reliable. The wire pinched between the plates is very secure.
Interesting. GFCI has the same connections as the backwire connections.
And the nice thing about the side-wiring is that you can get six (6) full circuit connections on one receptacle without double-tapping. 8 if you double-tap. In a single-gang box. I hope you hear the sarcasm.
Are back connections or side connections better in a high vibration environment? I am doing a camper conversion of a 6WD military ambulance.
I would defiantly go with the side wire connections. You can use a torque screw driver to make sure you get the proper tightness. Hubbell makes a new device called the Edge Connect. They are UL listed and tested to preform better in high vibration environments than other connections. I made a video on those as well if you want to check it out. th-cam.com/video/EXauKblaA3k/w-d-xo.html
@@BackyardMaine I just want to clarify. Are you saying that J hooks are more vibration resistant than commercial grade back connections?
@@michaelstora70 I was saying that the J-hooks are more reliable than the back stab or quick connects you see on 15A receptacles. The back wiring connections are very reliable and a good choice especially on commercial grade devices. I think either option when done right will give you a reliable connection.
This is a very good video.
Thank you..
Can you please explain why it is a code violation to use a 20 amp receptacle on a 15 amp circuit
Sure.. Because someone connect a 20A cord and plug connected piece of equipment which would overload the circuit and cause the breaker to trip. The breaker is a protective device and should only trip when there's a problem not as part of normal operation.
Side wiring is better for stranded wire , for rigid wire I'd stick to the loop and screw.
Can you used stranded wire when back wiring?
Yes you can for the back wire connections but not the back stab or speed wiring connections. They are rated for 14AWG solid copper wore only.
When backwiring a commercial grade receptacle it’s not necessary to use any particular side of the screw as I noticed you did. I know. Old habits. lol. I have about the same time in as you. (34 years)
Also w back wire terminals I’ve cannnected more than 2 wires to the device. This saves splicing and thereby eliminating wire nuts and possibly able to reduce box size.
I have not pigtailed receptacle wires for many years on even regular residential grade receptacles with only two wires. (The old falacy of not supposed to break the neutral) This aves time and $ and when done correctly I believe will not compromise the installation.
Cheers.
I'm not sure what you mean about a particular side. I know the wires can connect to either side.
True, it's not necessary to use a particular side of the screw, but if you use the side that follows the clockwise rotation of the screw threads it helps to keep the wire in instead of possibly pushing it out by going against the thread rotation.
@@surferdude642 Its absolutely necessary to follow the screw clockwise rotation with the wire hook for a reliable connection.
@@BackyardMaine I think you misunderstood, I was commenting on davepaquet regarding back wiring, not side wiring. There are 2 slots for the wire to enter, as you know.
Thank you.
My pleasure.
Good video, Thank you.
Very straight forward.
😂
My pleasure. Thanks for watching.
ECX bits on a Yankee driver will change your life.
I use the ideal version of the same thing.
I like "back stab", "side stab" and "side hook" word terminology better.
Can you backwire these with stranded wire safely?
Yes.. The commercial grade back wire devices are listed for solid or stranded wire.
@@BackyardMaine Thank you! I wired it that way but wanted to be sure it's an acceptable method with stranded wire!
A question just occurred to me while watching you discussing stab connections on receptacles, which I never use. However, I *do* use some Wago connectors that use a similar push in pressure connection, though they do have the lever to increase the pressure.
I assume the Wago connection is better, hopefully more reliable, less prone to pulling out (especially if you wrap with e tape to prevent the lever opening unintentionally. In the other regard, amperage capacity, I wonder if the Wagos carry the rated amperage more reliably, whether when installed correctly, or as commonly mis-installed or pulled somewhat out of the correct installation orientation.
I hope it’s clear what I am getting at. So, are you aware of any testing that compares these two methods of connection, and/ or do you have any relevant subjective experience?
I have never done side by side testing. I was very skeptical when I first started hearing about the WAGO 221. From my years of experience I didn't trust stab connections on 120v. I have some testing on a well pump which is a tasking circuit for connections because the higher current, inrush, and frequent cycling. They have been connected for over a year now with no issues. I have a couple of videos where I cut open a stab connection to show why I think they are so unreliable. I have a thermal camera on order so I will be doing some comparison videos in the near future.
Wired my first house with 20 amp back stab receptacles, when did the code change that allowed them? I'm guessing sometime in the 90's
I can’t remember but it was a while back.
It wasn’t that the code disapproves them. The lost their listing if I remember right so the manufacturers stopped making them
UL listing?@@BackyardMaine
Do outlets use ecx1 or ecx2?
I don't have the Milwaukee ECX driver so I'm not sure. I use the Ideal 35-204 which works great for not only the receptacle and switch screws but also the box screws as well. I have a link in the description of this video to the tool. This link may work as well. amzn.to/3uNBxWV
How to disconnect a backstabbed wire: I usually like to demonstrate to customers who have had their receptacles backfired. I take the receptacle in one hand and I grab the wires in the other and I simply twist and pull. The wires generally pop right out after a few twists. 😏
I don't think you mentioned about what you thought about lever lock connections.
I like them for lighting and low load receptacle circuit. When it comes to the Leviton Decora Edge they seem pretty decent but time will tell home they hold up. Hubbell makes one too but they aren't available at your big box store. The Hubbell Edge Connect is a new design and I would use it in my home.
Is there a problem with backwiring an outlet that only has side wiring?
I'm not sure I understand your question. If there is no back wiring option then it won't be possible to back wire the device.. If the device offers side wiring and back stab connections then I recommend using the side wiring option.
Side wiring is better for stranded wire , for rigid wire I'd stick with the loop and screw.
Is this the chat where we debate how good backstabs really are? Best thing since sliced bread.
Sorry-Off the subject, but I was watching a video on a channel “Hannah vacuums” from the UK and it appears that she plugs her vacuum in and then flips a switch on the faceplate. What’s up with that? To me it seems like that would be a good idea in the US.
I'm not sure but I believe all receptacles have a built in switch in the UK..
If you ever have issues and you have back stabbed devices just go ahead and change them over to side wired. Back stabbed is a terrible idea, a problem waiting to happen and in my opinion only done by people who don’t know better or by electricians who want to save a minute or two making up the device to increase their profit.
I lived in an old trailer home and all it had were cheap back stabber connections. There were no other options to the outlets. On top of that they were all wired from outlet to outlet. Lots of connections relying on a knife- edge of connection . I made sure anything that had serious amperage ( refrigerator, washer ) had newer outlets but a lot of lesser amp outlets I didn't change, such as bedrooms.
One time I needed to temporarily hook up a window air conditioner and it was on a line about 5 back- stabbed connections from the power box. I was watching all the outlets in between to make sure none of them were smoking.
Every time I wire a back-wire outlet I wonder why no manufacturer has modified the ground connection to make it function like the back-wiring of the hot and neutral wires. Sure, it doesn’t take long to make a j-hook for the ground, but after 200 outlets and switches in a larger house, I would welcome the time saved.
Brasil show
Welcome Brasil..
Do you wrap electrical tape around your receptacles???
No I don't recommend that except for when an old work box is secured with metal clips.
@@BackyardMaine Good to know! Thanks John!
@@rayraydesign My pleasure thanks for dropping by..
And just like the back stab connections having problems with working loose or failing, why on earth would you want to use wago clips, in my mind, the same issues!
Question: If a clueless homeowner accidentally dumped water on an outdoor receptacle and it stops working and they tell an electrician about the problem and he tells them to shut off the main then remove the cover and check the wiring, wouldn't this b dangerous? No advice to use a tester to ensure the power is OFF first.
The power should be off and the circuit tested before anyone does any electrical work and also only take on projects that you feel comfortable with doing yourself. Sometimes hiring a professional is the best plan.
@@BackyardMaine my exact advice to the homeowners! Thank you!!
Why oh why do they make ground screws different? Sometimes a different tool is needed. While the power wires can be pushed in and screwed - never the ground screw. But almost always won't allow 2 wires connected to it.
It's because the ground is the most important connection for safety.
"I know, I'm old" ... 😂😂🤣🤣🤣🤣
Seems like yesterday I was 30 now I'm 60.. lol
@@BackyardMaine exact same here, so the comment hit home hard.
@@timbrown9305 How did that happen so fast.. lol
I prefer Back wiring.I don’t like back stabbing.
I like the screw driver you are using no info on this😢
I have it linked in the video description.. They are really nice.
Hey! Did you know your outlets are all installed upside down?! 😉
There not. The code and the manufacturers do not specify orientation. I prefer ground down but the are six orientations that are acceptable. I made a video detailing this as well.
@@BackyardMaine I was just teasin! Lol
DO NOT repeat, DO NOT repeat, DO NOT use backstabbing!!! Shoddy crap contractors use those! They are CURSED!!!
.
Great point.
Under no circumstance should you backstab your devices. Ever. Period.
I think thats what I was leading too.
So he is a pro ?? if you back stab you still tighten down the screws to lock them in.
Actually no you don't. The screws are a second option for connecting the wires but play no roll in securing the backstab connection. I have a video where I cut one open and show this. Its at the 2:10 mark if you want to skip ahead. th-cam.com/video/EXauKblaA3k/w-d-xo.html
for beginners??? Being an electrician is not a hobby… it’s not something you learn on Mr. Rogers neighborhood in kindergarten..
One of my favorite supporting actors, Frank Silvera, who played The bandit that killed Paul Newman in the movie hombre, he was electrocuted / killed at his home, working on his garbage disposal..
There are a lot of different ways to pick up knowledge. Like it or not people add and replace receptacles and switches in their homes. I give them the knowledge to do it right. But I am sure you never went on youtube to learn something that could save you some money. Maybe something like changing your brake rotors and pads?
I appreciate what you’re doing, I am a retired electrician/HVAC tech. since I am a retired electrician, I would never encourage someone to go into an electrical project that did not have any electrical experience.. risky business..
you did answer a question I always had about the direction you mount a receptacle, ground, facing up or down. I put all mine facing down, I didn’t care what the NEC said, especially in my laundry room, and behind my refrigerator, the plug on those appliances is a 90° angle plug..
I do have a question. Lightning rod , mounted on the roof of the house. Do you ground it to your existing buried ground rods? Possibly energizing your panel board with a lightning strike? I was sitting outside with my wife one day, watching a storm approach, and we saw a lightning strike my house, it hit the cable television cable and damaged the cable box, and the HDMI port, on the back of my television.. I have been wanting to put a lightning rod on my roof grounded to something else other than my two buried ground rods that my panel board is grounded to..
This is what it says in the NEC.
250.106 Lightning Protection Systems
The lightning protection system ground terminals shall be bonded to the building or structure grounding electrode system.
Informational Note No. 1: See 250.60 for use of strike termination devices. For further information, see NFPA 780-2017, Standard for the Installation of Lightning Protection Systems, which contains detailed information on grounding, bonding, and side-flash distance from lightning protection systems.@@Jodyrides
Get your NEC and look up the definition of “outlet”. Those are not outlets. It makes a difference when you read some sections.
I know this and I have videos explaining it as well. But most people call them outlets so I find using that term works best.
@@BackyardMaine Agreed: there is no point in being _technically_ correct if your language just confuses the listener.
American home.
Come on! Be more aware of your audience reach!
91% of my viewers are from the USA and 7% are from Canada. The remaining 2% from everywhere else.
Unnecessary to specify "American", surely? The sort of outlets shown are not going to be found in Hong Kong or Paris, are they ?
Thank you, I learned something new about receptacles, I didn't know about those details, Thank you
Thank you.
My pleasure