Thanks! The extra layer of fibre blocks really make a difference in retaining heat. I've heard that one's made just with fibre blanket can struggle to reach temperature.
Have you had any experience firing Ollas for garden watering? I'm using a heavy grog terracotta clay supposed to be cone 04 to 05 My first attempt I ran it up to 1000f for 2 hours it looked good at first then about 5 mins after filling it with water it cracked in several places and fell apart. Its fired enough that the clay doesn't dissolve in water but it has no strength. I have one in the fire right now going to about 1500f this time. I had to get a bigger burner today and they left the needle valve out of the box so I;m having to control it with valve on the bottle ,man you talk about touchy lol! Been cooking this thing since a little before noon today and I'm at about 1300f now
Keep going hotter if you can! I bisque all my pieces to 1000 degrees Celsius first (1832 fahrenheit) and then refire with my glazes in this kiln to 1050c. Sounds like your pieces are not vitrified which is why they are cracking/brittle. 900-1000.C (minimum of 1652f) is still quite porous for terracotta and should seep water nicely for Ollas with the added strength you are looking for.
@@regularguy8592 I'm not too sure as I only ever glaze fire in mine. When I bisque fire in my regular kiln I programme it to turn off as soon as it reaches temperature (no soak/ hold) If this is your first firing then cooling of the pieces is just as important as reaching temp. Close off any ports and leave to cool very slowly. Look up "stages of cooling pottery" to better understand the vitrification process and prevent cracking when cooling (even tiny hairline cracks can become a problem later on). Hope this helps :)
someone did really nice job on the insulation!
Thanks! The extra layer of fibre blocks really make a difference in retaining heat. I've heard that one's made just with fibre blanket can struggle to reach temperature.
@@karenwildeart I used 1" fiber blanket but next one I do will have the rigid board for sure
Have you had any experience firing Ollas for garden watering? I'm using a heavy grog terracotta clay supposed to be cone 04 to 05 My first attempt I ran it up to 1000f for 2 hours it looked good at first then about 5 mins after filling it with water it cracked in several places and fell apart. Its fired enough that the clay doesn't dissolve in water but it has no strength. I have one in the fire right now going to about 1500f this time. I had to get a bigger burner today and they left the needle valve out of the box so I;m having to control it with valve on the bottle ,man you talk about touchy lol! Been cooking this thing since a little before noon today and I'm at about 1300f now
Keep going hotter if you can! I bisque all my pieces to 1000 degrees Celsius first (1832 fahrenheit) and then refire with my glazes in this kiln to 1050c. Sounds like your pieces are not vitrified which is why they are cracking/brittle. 900-1000.C (minimum of 1652f) is still quite porous for terracotta and should seep water nicely for Ollas with the added strength you are looking for.
@@karenwildeart Ok ima take your advice i'm at 1500 now and going to 1650 in another hour. How long would you maintain 1650?
@@regularguy8592 I'm not too sure as I only ever glaze fire in mine. When I bisque fire in my regular kiln I programme it to turn off as soon as it reaches temperature (no soak/ hold) If this is your first firing then cooling of the pieces is just as important as reaching temp. Close off any ports and leave to cool very slowly. Look up "stages of cooling pottery" to better understand the vitrification process and prevent cracking when cooling (even tiny hairline cracks can become a problem later on). Hope this helps :)
@@karenwildeart I definately plan on closing all the holes when its done then I will open it up in the morning already past my bed time lol
@@karenwildeart I have a 500,000 btu burner you can blow on that valve and temp jumps up 100 degrees lol.