I’m getting back into bashing and leaning towards the Kraton 6S EXB. I’m building a one and done. It’s expensive to do it right. About $1700 all in with the setup I want. I’ve been researching a lot. This is by far the single best review on the Kraton EXB I’ve seen so far.
@@AJJAMStudios Im torn between getting a HPI Savage x xl v2 flux ( the orange xl one ) or a ARRMA Kraton EXB or a ARRM Talion EXB was also looking at a HPI Vorza truggy but that Vorza Truggy does not come with a center brace and seems to just sit to low ... like something is off. I use to own a Savage X 4.6 Nitro so im not 100 percent noob I could back flip it and front flip it. Out of what I mentioned from your knowledge what is the most durable model stock or with upgrades. Back in the day my heart was 100 percent sent on the HPI Savage but this was over 10 years ago !
I like this guy! He's the best in my opinion to layout the pro's and con's on RC vehicles. I love the way he gave us the part numbers as well. This guy's videos has helped me out tremendously.
Thanks for the praise. One thing though, for the Kraton EXB switchover to RPM arms, you will also need a Kraton V4 rear sway bar. This one is spaced right for the RPM arms. Sorry this fact was left out of the video. It is in the description however. Thanks again. 😎👍
@@AJJAMStudios Hey man nice shop you got there ! I was just wondering why would you drill 2 holes in the tire to let sand and water from getting stuck but you put tape over one of the holes ? Could you just drill 1 hole or 2 holes on just the out side ?
This is quickly becoming one of my fav channels. I haven’t driven my rc in a year or two and now I’m back at it. Happy to see a new face on the scene, and the content is terrific. Keep it up! 👊
I’m 45 and went hard in on a stampede 2wd. About 900 $ I had to learn the hard way . Then got a great deal on a vxl stampede 4x4 that had been sitting up for years . 25$ got me everything but tires and the motor was missing shaft . 400$ later I’m just barely running 2 3s packs before busting axles , shafts , spur gears … anyhow .. thanks for the videos . I’ve learned a lot .
Got my Talion thanks to you! Got the RPM wing Mounts and Wheelie bar and Rear Bumper! I also added some 3.8 Raptors! Loving it!!! Thanks for your info!
hey man i have been watching your videos and you have explained so many things to me and given away things you could have kept to your self. thank you for the time and effort in producing easy to understand content and teaching in a way I can understand. thank you!
This is the best review ever. Very in depth and you definitely got me thinking about upgrades. And everything you talked about upgrading I was already thinking about
Was just setting up my EXB today, and you were spot on about the diff cases, mine was off just a few thousands, I invested in some aluminum diff cases to start with, based on the information on this video. Now it's set up properly, buttery smooth, no play. Good call!
I’m glad it helped. I’ve been chastised for commenting about the molding process. But I’ve checked and there are differences. Thanks for confirming this fact for me. AJ 😎👍
@@AJJAMStudios yeah, im no chemist, so I cant vouch for the type of plastic they used. But it seems that no two are alike. Also it seems like that's a tiny pinion in the thing considering the amount of power were running through these trucks.
I believe the gearing is designed to help with run time. Gear the diffs low so you can adjust your speed with the pinion size. Small diff pinion equals torque. Large motor pinion equals speed. Thanks for the comment. 😎👍
man, I'm in the middle of the video and have to checked it once again, you have only 4k subs? WTF... you present the content like a TV guy or something, super pro! Great sound and transitions. Plus very, very informative. I'm just debating with myself, is the EXB Kraton a way to go for me and I've find that vid super helpful. Keep it up!
wow... I was avoiding your review vid coming across my feed (out fear of ,"what now"). Silly me! While I've already upgraded the diff bulk heads and diffs(aluminum) and did the shimming both rear and front, I was wondering about the front hub carrier. I did have to work on mine to try and get my camber corrected. I noticed exactly what you were saying about the re threading of that red cap. It took me several attempts to get it back in straight, so I'm sure I did cross thread it. So thank you for that upgraded part! Your content presentation is superb--subbed!
Subbed. Great vid. Lots of top tips! Thanks. But, it’s nice to support your local hobby shop. They’re there to support the community, hold events, have local inventory for ‘right now’ fixes, advice, bla bla bla.. I’m not an owner nor employee of one, just appreciate having them and the local community. And yea, I do buy stuff on line, too much actually and I feel guilty all the time! Keep it up, and good luck growing the channel.
I definitely do try and buy local when possible, but sometimes, especially when you need certain parts, like upgrades, you have to source them elsewhere. For this, the internet is the great equalizer. Look local, by all means, which I do, but go where you have to to get what you need. However, I wouldn't feel guilty, if they carried what it is you are looking for, you wouldn't have to look elsewhere. 😎👍
Great in depth review man! I'll be using your tips for my kraton 6s V4. I've had a few issues with diff pins breaking but nothing big yet, I have some m2c upgrades but I really like those hub carriers, wing mounts and servo saver. I'm looking forward to your xmaxx review too, I'm considering a mojave exb or XMAXX for my next truck.
You really can't go wrong with either car. The Mojave is fun, fast and durable, however, it is a short course truck, which handles a bit differently from your Kraton. The XMAXX however, is more of what you already have, and I mean more. It's big, bad, and fun as hell to play with. Whichever way you go, you'll love it. Thanks for watching. AJ
Thank you for all this usefull info! Broke my rear hub first time out with the EXB. Great advice for beefing up this car as it breaks. It's encouraging that you have an XMAXX in the background but this car is your go to basher. Cheers!
Bought 2 new V5 Notorious and 1 new V5 Kraton. On 2 basic grass runs the pinion gear came loose and the centre diff started leaking oil on 1 car. The other 2 haven't been ran yet(thankfully).....So basically I am going to have to properly degrease, clean and Loctite all 3 pinions, check gear mesh, upgrade all 3 motor mounts with M4 bolts, check 8 diffs are tight, add oil and reseal 1, check 6 diff housings are shimmed correctly. These cars are super expensive in Oz as well. It really pisses me off Arrma's QA is shit house. I would expect this from say my cheap WLToys cars. Hell they may as well advertise on the box - Please Note the entire RC needs to broken down checked over and rebuilt before driving. Great videos BTW TY 👍👍👍
Arrma could definitely use stricter quality control rules for sure. Seems like they all need one thing or another, but after seeing to the issues that plague their rigs they actually perform damn good. Modding is always encouraged for longevity. I hope you get yours up and running soon. Thanks for sharing. AJ
Bro , I think im gonna get one of these tomorrow . A guy has one BNIb I met at my church parking lot . He bought 20 from a hobby shop that closed recently and the deal seems sweet . I like to mod my knives and I like modding RC cars , pew pew, trucks , as well . Also , homes .
Great video 😁 lots of good info 😉 i got the fireteam and have been upgrading. Went through all diffs before even powering up and did metal hubs n knuckels along with RPM arms. Got GPM skid plates and just received a bunch of stuff for next upgrades. Metal diff cases and hardened steel gears along with metal cases for those. Metal center diff mount. Turnbuckles and center brace mounts. Making all metal besides arms for some flex 😁 got a basher skins decal kit for body and top roll bar along with wheelie bar and front bumper upgrades. I have dumped a ton of $ into this thing. Also hooked it up with radiomaster mt12 (expresslrs) and receiver. Great radio 🤯 i was using radiomaster and expresslrs on my drones and wanted similar experience. May even put a o3 air unit on it to use fpv system. Should have miles range. I know it will go further than i can see 🤣 keep the great videos coming man 😁 oh, i also started off with pro line Trenchers. And have all metal bell crank and new servo to put in. Oblique metal gears. Sincecam 37kg
hey buddy well we def think alike with the bending from RPM. They now saved my rear diff housing already twice now just waiting for RPM to send me some new ones for free. i actually snap both of them today. yup did a wheelie going about 40mph and fliped her right off the ground pretty hard. 15T pinion plus with 40 degrees cold weather any kind of plastic will get brittle. One word of advice if you leave your car in the cold before you drive it is a no go. Now im gonna leave here in my house where its about 68 degrees and will help the plastic parts hold up in the cold alot better. always store your rigs in doors not the garage in the winter unless its heated before you use it. this will help the durability by far. Summer time is bashing time for me. great video great tips man yeah i have 2 chip teeth on my front diff and still she is holding up great runs fine. thank god arrma sent us those LSD rear diffs. and for some reason they sent me 2 diff housing lol i guess they know that those molds are fuck up )
The idea behind the limited slip differentials is that you can have a more open feeling when you're going around turns but a more locked up feeling when you're under acceleration.
Great Honest Review and Feedback! New Sub 🤟 Enjoyed the action vids. Driving more like us instead of only clips of “flawless sends” Keep up the super work!!
Excellent review! I have Arrma’s since the V2’s and had 90% of the same issues. Especially the rear diff problem. I actually just ordered a 19x16x0.1mm shim for the big bearing (facing the diff house) inside the rear diff. I have to try it but even with two shims on the outside I had a lot of gear stripping problems. Maybe I can set it up better now.
Subbed. You should have way more subscribers. Really useful, enjoyable video. I'm late to the party and only just getting my exb but ordered some more parts after watching this 👍
I drilled a small hole on the front side of my hub carrier on my v2 Outcast. I put a small set screw in the hole and once the cap is set tighten the set screw. My caps no longer back out and the mod cost about &1.50.
I've never had a shelf of cars, but I've played with Traxxas cars (owning basically one at a time) since around 2007. Rural area, I don't know many people who are even into RC (to exchange ideas or new brands). My current rig is a 3908 emaxx and it works great, but for whatever reason that itch to buy something crept in and Arrma came on my radar in this last week, and I never heard of them before. You're probably about the 6th video I've seen where they say something about that rear diff. That's kinda off putting as someone researching what to buy next. You'd think the company would get that under control. I'm about 2 and a half minutes into your video, so I'll watch the rest and see what your take is overall, but I'm appreciative of video shares like this one; saves me a headache! So thanks!
Not all of the cars have the diff problems. The issue is the housings, they are not exactly the same inside. They are so close you would not be able to see it but they vary. Out of the many Arrma cars me and my friends have, the odds are about 10% that you will have issues with one diff or another. I've had these issues with just about every brand out there, so it is not exclusive to Arrma. With a little attention to the details when you get yours, you should be able to stave off any problems, but it will require some wrenching and checking before you run it. Shims may be in order to snug everything up to spec, but that's a small price to pay for the performance you should get out of the car. Which car are you thinking of getting?
I was looking at the 1/5 or 1/8 Kraton and I was looking at possibly trying out the roller EXB and doing the electronics myself. Kind of have an itch to try out some FPV, too!
That's the first thing I did after receiving mine. Re-shimming the diff and tightening up the ring and pinion backlash is a must. They may have corrected the issue with newer models but I haven't heard of this yet.
Dang this must’ve taken forever to make! If you ever pick up an e revo 2.0 the tie rods were revised a while ago and I’d like to see this type of video about it since nobody has since it was first released really. With a couple mods (chassis brace, limiting straps, maybe rpm arms) I think it’d be a top tier truck
Revod good but it's just too much Traxxas plastic my mt4 ran into my mates Revo at high speed not a touch of damage on mine but can't say the same for the revo.
@@POLITICALYCORRECTify eh, I have a revo 2.0 the only real areas where having metal would benefit it would be the center shaft and maybe diff housing? Rear brace? I kinda prefer plastic chassis (no bending, haven’t broken one yet) but I tend to nosedive off jumps more than I run into things, so plastic is beneficial, no bending 😅 But yea metal vs plastic in a crash RIP soft flexible plastic, I just prefer it for bashing. It’s done insanely well for 2 years now… just gotta put some metal where it belongs 😁
Thanks. As for the diff, I blew the stock one right away and quickly switched to a locked V4 diff. But I did rebuild the original diff (LSD) and put it back in. Shimming properly matters. Now it runs good with the LSD diff back in place. Thanks again for the comment. 😎👍
@@AJJAMStudios thanks seems like a lot of folks think it a must to add a bunch of m2c upgrades, but I’ll see how the stock stuff holds up. I did install hot racing bulkheads, but the rest of my new exb is stock 😎 hopefully it holds up well to some good bashing!
Depending on your driving style it should hold up. the EXB parts are pretty good, in our opinion, but skate parks will destroy any RC, it's just a matter of time. Good luck. 😎👍
Also, Arrma wheel nuts come loose fast, no matter how tight you put them. After lots of testing, ORANGE locktite is the magic trick. Strong as red but does not need heating to remove. Shredding brand new tires first run gets expensive. FYI
Thanks for this in depth thorough review on this truck. I just bought one on early Black Friday for that heck of a deal they were having. I too like you am going to power it with the blx2050kv motor I have and a Spektrum 150a stock esc. I’m going with a PowerHd 40kg servo though and a dx5c I have spare. Should be a fun budget basher build for me. 👋🇨🇦
Awesome video! There wasn’t anything I didn’t like. Your honest funny and knows some stuff. Great editing/music. Very well done I subscribed and I’ll be back for more
I am interested in this particular model but as a one handed person, my question is.... can the batteries and connectors be unplugged, removed with one left hand ? thank you - for the rest, you have awesome video's about rc's and my first car, the UDR is also one of your favorites i see... and this udr can be handled perfectly with one hand. but i want a second one to bring some variety in my new hobby 🙂
I understand your situation and feel the connectors for most RC cars will be a problem. Building a hard mount for the speed control connector could fix the issue but stock I think you will have issues with the connector. Also, the Velcro may be difficult but if you are somewhat adept with one hand you may be able to overcome that issue. The UDR is special as it has hard connectors and a battery box with a locking door, which would definitely work better for you. However, with a bit of clever engineering I think you could overcome those issues. Best of luck. Let me know what you think. AJ 😎👍
@@AJJAMStudios thnx for the swift reply. as you say, also the velcro's are a bit tricky. but traxxas id connector seems to be the best and most obvious choice and the maxx and maxx x have battery compartment. another choice is the rock rey plus.... so, for my second RC i have already 3 choices - I always see the positive in every situation and have already learnt alot from your video's and your tears of expericience - thanks and keep up the good work!
I hope we were helpful to you. We here try and help as much as we can. That being said, I hope you let us know which car you wind up choosing. And at some point I hope you elaborate on how things work out for you, because I'm sure you are not the only one out there with an issue like that. I think it would be a good thing to share, you know, to help others along the way and all. Thanks for the compliment and being part of our conversations here on the channel. AJ
@@AJJAMStudios hey, i will surely keep you informed what car i eventually gonna call my "second car" and eagerly follow your YT channel as you always come with honest and correct reviews ! allthoughthere are many RC YT'ers, you are one of the best and one can see that you have a lot of experience as an independant reviewer (so not subjective) for now happy holidays and a healthy 2022 !
Great video AJ! Do you like RPM arms front & rear? Also, I’ve had an issue with breaking shock ends. Do you think the more flexible arms will help that? Do you also do shock bumpstops ever? Thanks.
Bump stops can be useful but I usually pass on the idea because of the stress it adds to the suspension. As far as the RPM arms go, for the V4 Kraton 6s I like them all the way around. But for the EXB Talion it is front only. The shock end issue can be solved by using the EXB shock ends. I hope this helps. AJ
It helps, but when the tires fight to grow it creates vacuum. This can effect the way the tires handle this negative pressure and cause other issues-in the long run. Venting tires prevents this issue. At least, that is how I understand it. Thanks for asking. 😎👍
When I brought mine I payed the shop an extra 90 bucks to shim the diffs. A must I heard especially with a powerful motor like the 1717 I put in and locked centre diff with 500,000 oil.
The Diffs are not that hard to do, it is usually just the shop clearing overhead that makes it cost so much. Learning to do it yourself can be so much more rewarding when you get it right. 😎👍
@@AJJAMStudios yeah I want to but I have never had anyone to show me n I'm not confident to pull shit apart by myself coz I'm woried I'll get stuck with it in pieces.
I understand. Puzzles are not my thing either, but sometimes we all have to solve one. I would only attempt the job if I felt confident in my abilities. Best of luck. 😎👍
@@AJJAMStudios I want to learn but I want to get someone who knows what their doing n pay them to watch n guide me through it. Then I won't have the anxiety of ending up with a car in pieces lol. Better to pay someone once n learn rather than everytime I need stuff done
Just ordered the atomic pillow balls because the inserts of my stock EXB popped out on the upper control arm as well as I cross threaded the plastic reinserting a new one which mistakingly bought before buying the Atomic. So now I will have 8 inserts as backups. Hopefully same thread sizing. Question: Do I need to add a dry grease on the balls to prevent any friction on the 6000 series aluminum they are made out of being that the ball joints are steel? Do the Atomiks use Delrey bushings like the M2C Racing insert kit? I hope these are all you said they are. Have you had any problems with the tension inserts backing out from vibration. Locktight?
No Loctite. And yes, I use silicone lube for those. And no, I haven't had the inserts back out with the aluminum replacements. As far as "all I said it was", Mine still kicks @#%, and I've had no issues whatsoever once I did the upgrades. So... Best of luck with yours. AJ
My servo saver is stiff and doesnt give much at all. But i think alluminum just going to wear down. I had alluminum pivot balls on my kraton 4s and after 4-6 months they worn out completely and had to trow them away
I've run aluminum servo savers for many years and in various cars. I've found that the amount of movement within the unit is usually negligible. However, the plastic ones "do break" from time to time. Also, movement within the unit is necessary to protect the servo itself. There are many ways to achieve this outcome, so choosing is "as always" up to you. The process "as shown in the video" is only my preferred method for solving this issue and not in any way a demand that everyone do this to their cars. Long days of running and bashing have confirmed to me, at least, that this way does, in fact, work, however, I'm well aware that other methods exist for coping with the issues the EXB presents. I hope this helps. As always, thanks for the comment. AJ
@@AJJAMStudios i understand the issue is friction. Aluminum doesnt like friction. Thats why pivot balls are made from steel 95% of the time. Plastic is more resistant imo to friction wear than aluminum. And also aluminum doesn't like water much once the anodizing is out
Great video! Have you ever used WD-40 and soaked the tough EXB plastic? It definitely softens the plastic and allows for more flex. It’s a little cheaper way to get the same flex as the RPM plastics. Muc Off works too and I clean my RC’s with it and over time I does the same thing. I’ve been thinking of pulling the trigger on the EXB! New sub and enjoy what you do jj
Yes the WD40 does soften the plastic, but it does nothing to fix the driveshaft issues. The EXB has problems with the front driveshafts popping out. That was the reason for the arm change. RPM is just my go-to because of their plastic durability. Also, their arm design did in fact stop the driveshaft issue. Thanks for the comment. AJ
It’s good to hear from you Speed. You’ve been away from us for a while. If you guys haven’t seen SpeedSyko’s channel you should check it out, he’s awesome!!!
I just got my first kraton which of course had to be a exb. I had a couple questions. First off what weight diff fluids do you prefer? Secondly I’ve been thinking about going with the dumborc controller as well because I’ve heard nothing but good things about it. The question I have is did you go with one with a gyro built in? My hoss has a gyro and honestly I’m not sure how much difference it makes but it’s only about $10 more for the dumborc with it included in the receiver so I’m thinking why not but am curious which you chose and why? Thank you and keep making such great informative videos!!!
Fluids: 10k front, 30k rear, 200k center. This seems to handle just fine for me. You’ll have to decide for yourself if it works for you. And I have the Dumbo RC and they do work well. But I find the DX3 to be more versatile. It has better controls and simple setup. It also has an analog brake dial for instant break adjustments on different traction surfaces. I know, the DX3 does not come with the 6 channel receiver but, I think, it’s worth the money. Still, the Dumbo does work good. If money is an issue I would, and have, gone with the dumbo. Best of luck in your bashing. 😎👍
I wouldn’t be able to use a gyro with the spectrum radio correct? That’s another reason I was thinking about going with the dumborc with included gyro. Or are you not a fan of their gyros?
The DumboRC is fair enough to use, but I like the Spektrum AVC system a bit better. It is simple to setup and the onboard controls make it simple to adjust. The DumboRC system works too, so there's that to consider. We've got both systems in the studio, but we've slowly phased out the DumboRC stuff in favor of the newer tech. Either way, I think you can't go wrong -- especially if money is a thing. Thanks for the conversation. PS, your comments wound up in the spam category and I just found them, sorry for the delayed response. AJ
I hope you read this!! I know this video is old but the wheelie bar that you have. Do you know exactly where i can get it or maybe a link? I can not find it all. Please help. thanks.
Great video AJ but I'm kind of new to modifying RC bashers. I went and bought the RPM part numbers you showed on the video for the Kraton EXB. In my case, I'm finding they are not that great of a fit. The sway bar mounts are too far out and cause the links to bind or pop off and the stock shock pins are about 1/2" too long for the RPM mounting hole locations. I bought my Kraton EXB new about three weeks ago. Did you have to do modifications to make the RPM parts work or maybe the latest EXB versions have changed slightly? Just curious, I'm about to put the original parts back on but was really looking forward to making it a bit more bulletproof with the new parts.
I forgot to include the V4 Kraton sway bar switch out. It’s a small thing. I’m sorry for leaving that out of the video. With the V4 sway bar for the rear the parts went on fairly easily. Don’t give up, it’s worth the effort. 😎👍
Great. Thanks for the additional info and by the way, I've watched numerous you tube videos and yours are some of the very best for content and knowledge. Thank you.
@@Murfdawgrc I will add this information to the video description so the issue won't pop up in the future. Thank you for bringing it to my attention. And thanks for the comment. I do try. AJ
I dont understand how you can so casually accept that the rear diff did not come with the right shimming causing the teeth to wear out right away and having to repair it. This is an expensive part. If I paid 800$ for a product and it broke in the next hour due to factory defect, I would be pissed if I had to replace it out of my pocket. ! What 50-60$ to replace the diff parts? What about warranty? Your are far more patient than I am. Good review though. Keep'em coming.
We've been at this for a very long time now and over that time we've realized that no RC is perfect. Straight out of the box things can be a little sketchy from time to time. Personally, I don't like the warrantee process at all, no matter what company is involved, and I hate complaining to a manufacturer about a part that had failed. I would rather just replace or upgrade it and have that behind me, plus we here dig wrenching on these small machines, so that to us, is a bonus. As far as the cost goes, the extra expenditure can be a little off putting to be sure and shouldn't be necessary in the first place, but we've learned to move past that and try and focus on what could be, instead of what happened with the cars. Knowing a diff failed, for example, as we see it, only allows us the opportunity to rip it apart and diagnose the issue. This tests our minds and allows for free thought as to how the issue may be resolved. For us, we here see it as a challenge not a defeat. I hope this helps you understand how we see things like this. P,S, I have a friend who purchased an Arrma Kraton 6s RTR. He was so excited to get it. Then, when he got it out of the box, the car would not go into reverse. Needless to say he was "Upset" and he was chattering on about returning it, and how it should work as advertised. I got involved and diagnosed the issue and in less than a minute his Kraton was working as it was supposed to. What floored me was that car was, at the time, the best basher out there, and he was willing to send it back for a simple setup issue. I would have replaced the speed control, shelling out even more, just to get the thing running so I could play with it. Fort him, it became a trophy, a rig he seldom uses and will not bash, but for me it is nothing more than a tool designed to place a smile on my face as is tumbles and soars off the ramps. For us here, it is the joy of the thing, not the cost. Sorry for the long winded response, and thanks for commenting. 😎👍
Hi, Love the review . Im trying to find the alloy Atomic hub carriers @ Atomic rc but I cant seem to find the part on their site,would you have a link ? Thank you
I cannot find the Atomic carriers, but Integy makes billet aluminum carriers too, and in many colors. I've used them and they work well. Plus, they are readily available. Best of luck. AJ
Kevin Talbot says to not put holes in your tires plus cover the holes in the wheels with duck tape. he's never had I problem. I started it about a yr ago. I noticed me tires are lasting longer
Good question. Since they are still built with the same housings, I would say yes. I would still check the shimming before getting busy with my car. Thanks for asking. 😎👍
I have some videos of approx 60ft jumps and the exb takes some serious abuse. Definitely not perfect as you say but step in the right direction for arrma making a tough basher... i found that wd40 tends to soften the arms a bit making them last longer just a tip 🙂
@@POLITICALYCORRECTify I was just using a soft brush to clean and coat the arms with wd40. I have since switched to simple green due to the wd40 smell. Also if you use wd40 I would suggest wiping it off before your next outing. If you don't dirt tends to stick to the arms easier. Using simple green you won't have to do that.
@@AJJAMStudios I am nee to the sport I’m going to start with a Kraton 6s Roller that will give a good base to start from. Your Vids are very helpful and very well explained. Could you recommend a 26kg Servo pls. Jim Currie Scotland 🏴
Many manufacturers make the proper type. I search EBay for my servo needs. Look at the ratings, make it waterproof, and all metal gears. The prices vary, so you can decide how much you wish to spend. Also, high speed is a plus. Good hunting. AJ
@@AJJAMStudios AJ is it possible to put the Kraton 8 s motor and controller etc in a 6s Roller. I assume that the smaller chassis will not work well with an 8s set up 🤷♂️
I never ask a question before on these sights. I have an issuses and if anybody would have seen this you might have. On the Kraton 8S .transmission . The shaft that holds the spur gear on. The outside bearing next to the spur cover. I notice that the beating race is loose on mine. I cant be the only one. But if it is loose it makes the race shake and loose of power. Tou have to look close while the truck is on blocks and whe wheels engaged. I been wondering if an aftermarket would solve the problem or just a set screw mounted to the housing.
A new bearing should fix the issue. I’ve been using aftermarket bearings that are sealed and they work well enough. My local shop usually has them for the cars they sell. I would definitely try this first. I hope this helps. Thanks for asking. 😎👍
Great vid and review dude, well done. Very informative. Just need to question you at 47:00 to 47:10 you say you put the 2nd thickest oil in the rear and thinnest in the front? I always thought it was the other way around. On my V4 I have 200k center, 30k in the rear and 60k in the front. How would your setup differ to mine? Just curious. 🤔 Subed
Thanks for the question. In fact, I have a vid coming out next week that deals with that exact question. I guess it serves to say, You are not wrong on your setup, if the car does what you want it to do. I like the rear to drift easier and the front to maintain traction. Also, the center is the most important, as it imparts the power to the drivetrain, and I don't like over-spin on my front tires. I also like more dig in the rear. For your setup, and not having driven the car myself, I would only guess that having thicker fluid in the front would limit wheelspin from side to side, but the lighter fluid in the rear may allow more push in the corners. I may be a bit off, due to the variables involved. Let me know how your car handles, I'm curious. AJ
Very good Video. Thank you. I could get the v4 Kraton quite cheap because the v5 is out. On the other hand i think it would be better to get the EXB. What do you think? Buy the v4 and upgrade what breaks or buy the EXB?
The chassis is weak on the v4. So are the chassis braces. However, I love my v4. Either way, upgrades are needed. With the v4 you get an RTR platform, so you won’t have to buy electrics to make it operational. So there is that to consider. That aside, the EXB is a great machine too. The choice has to be yours. Thanks for asking. AJ 😎👍
I guess it depends upon how willing you are to build your car. The EXB comes as a roller, which means you will have to install a radio system, servo, speed controller, and motor. That is just the way they come. I set mine up with the V4 running gear and a much faster radio, which all costs extra. Thinking that way, how willing are you to invest in a car that basically comes as an RTR in the V5. It may not have all of the upgrades the EXB has, but it the cost should be lower, which means, when you bend or break something you will have a little extra left over to upgrade it. You can buy the EXB chassis, shock towers and so forth. As I see it, there really is no wrong way to go here. RTR gets you up and running like now, while you get to wrench on the EXB before you can pull the trigger. I hope this helps. AJ
@@AJJAMStudios Thank you very much! I already have version 5, it's new. I was thinking of switching to exb or staying with v5 and upgrading it over time.
I have a question if you had to pick between the 1/5 DBXL-E 2.0 and the 1/5 KRATON 4WD EXtreme Bash Roller which would you pick for fun bashing and reliability. I found all the electronics for EXB Kraton and they come out to the same price so because of that I don't know which to pick for a good fun, tuff basher out of the box. Thank you.
It really comes down to your opinion of the two cars. The DBXL-e is BIG and fun, but it is also heavy, weighing in at about 30 lbs w/batteries. The parts sometimes have trouble dealing with the weight, but those are small issues. As far as the Kraton goes, what I've seen of them tells me they are going to require some serious upgrades to go fast and bash hard continuously. Now, I don't have a 1/5th scale Kraton in my collection, but I do do my homework. Still, the choice has to be yours. I wish I could be more help here. I'm afraid my experience with the DBXL-e makes my argument a bit one sided. Bear in mind, I love both Arrma and Losi, so I can't really see a down side here. PS, I love my DBXL-e 2.0...if that helps. AJ
Ihave 2 exbs and i clipped a lot of things and they never pooped. I cross threaded once but but they never work themselve loose and they are hard to spin. Idk how they come loose. I like them personally yes the cross threading csn be an issue
My EXB front driveshafts began popping out on day one, and popped out every time I ran the car. Frustrating, to be sure. However, the EXB pillow balls, "fine thread" work just fine. The V4 balls are the ones that come loose. Thanks for the comment. AJ
@@AJJAMStudios that was an issue i heard i sanded down the red aluminum ring and remove the top clip. It never poped on both of mine. The mojave i didnt do the mod im just lazy i guess XD. And the driveshaft is kinda far inside the cup
One of my mojave red nuts was cross threaded in from factory i tried my best to make it streight. Cross threaded it like 6 times trying. But its in there really tight. I use a T style alen key and need a lot of twisting to turn them maybe im just lucky. I bought spares for both trucks thinking it would be a common failure not so far. My mojave ran in -20 weather. And snow
Hi AJ , how are you powering your twin motor fans on the Kraton EXB? And what leads are you using to connect. Trying to run a simuliar set up. Many thanks
@@AJJAMStudios thanks AJ they are not fond of this idea and saying I need a battery capacitor , so why I’m asking on here bud. They said it’s too much for the receiver.
Yes, as long as it is a small pointed iron. Also, be sure you have proper ventilation when doing this because it produces a significant amount of smoke. Beyond that, be sure to tape over the inner vent holes of the wheels to prevent loading of the foam from the inside. Thanks for asking. AJ
@@AJJAMStudios thank you for your answer. Another question is I am wondering to create a selling business on bearings and bushings what do you think? Do you miss some products / dimensions on these topics?
It's always nice to find a new vendor for products concerning our hobby. Bearings are sometimes hard to locate without going down to the local bearing company and searching through stacks of books to locate a certain bearing. There are companies that do that sort of thing, of course, and my local shops do carry some of them in stock, but not for all the different cars, only the prominent ones. A company that can assemble a bearing kit for just about any car and ship it direct might just be the ticket for this market. I would love to be able to place an order for a particular type of car and have that bearing set assembled and shipped out to me perhaps with a sealed or not sealed option, depending upon the buyers request. It would make things nice and tidy. Well...that's my opinion on the matter. I hope it helps. AJ
Not really. Most of the aluminum ones are tough enough to handle the issues involved. On eBay, search: Kraton 6s bell crank set. Many options pop right up and they do not cost much. Pick the set that speak to you and give them a try. Personally, I like the billet machined ones. This is the set we used: www.ebay.com/itm/134497770021?hash=item1f50b11a25:g:McEAAOSwDMNkF~fK Thanks for asking. 😎👍
I do not understand. The EXB grub screws on mine line up just fine. The mushroom head must be down to widen the contact area, and "on mine" at least, they do line up. I've inspected this myself. Thanks for having me check my findings. AJ
@@AJJAMStudios maybe rpm released a exb version for the arms. But i know in the arrmaforrum picture of rpm arms the grub screws not lining up at all with the ears and that causes ur rod ends to snap.
I’m getting back into bashing and leaning towards the Kraton 6S EXB. I’m building a one and done. It’s expensive to do it right. About $1700 all in with the setup I want. I’ve been researching a lot. This is by far the single best review on the Kraton EXB I’ve seen so far.
Thank you. I hope it helps. 😎👍
@@AJJAMStudios Im torn between getting a HPI Savage x xl v2 flux ( the orange xl one ) or a ARRMA Kraton EXB or a ARRM Talion EXB was also looking at a HPI Vorza truggy but that Vorza Truggy does not come with a center brace and seems to just sit to low ... like something is off. I use to own a Savage X 4.6 Nitro so im not 100 percent noob I could back flip it and front flip it. Out of what I mentioned from your knowledge what is the most durable model stock or with upgrades. Back in the day my heart was 100 percent sent on the HPI Savage but this was over 10 years ago !
I like this guy! He's the best in my opinion to layout the pro's and con's on RC vehicles. I love the way he gave us the part numbers as well. This guy's videos has helped me out tremendously.
Thanks for the praise. One thing though, for the Kraton EXB switchover to RPM arms, you will also need a Kraton V4 rear sway bar. This one is spaced right for the RPM arms. Sorry this fact was left out of the video. It is in the description however. Thanks again. 😎👍
@@AJJAMStudios I thought rpm arms are a no-go for v5 and exb, due to new shock positions
You need the v4 sway bar but they do go on. I got them on mine with little effort.
@@AJJAMStudios Hey man nice shop you got there ! I was just wondering why would you drill 2 holes in the tire to let sand and water from getting stuck but you put tape over one of the holes ? Could you just drill 1 hole or 2 holes on just the out side ?
This is quickly becoming one of my fav channels. I haven’t driven my rc in a year or two and now I’m back at it. Happy to see a new face on the scene, and the content is terrific. Keep it up! 👊
I’m 45 and went hard in on a stampede 2wd. About 900 $ I had to learn the hard way . Then got a great deal on a vxl stampede 4x4 that had been sitting up for years . 25$ got me everything but tires and the motor was missing shaft . 400$ later I’m just barely running 2 3s packs before busting axles , shafts , spur gears … anyhow .. thanks for the videos . I’ve learned a lot .
Got my Talion thanks to you! Got the RPM wing Mounts and Wheelie bar and Rear Bumper! I also added some 3.8 Raptors! Loving it!!! Thanks for your info!
Glad we could help 😎👍
hey man i have been watching your videos and you have explained so many things to me and given away things you could have kept to your self. thank you for the time and effort in producing easy to understand content and teaching in a way I can understand. thank you!
This is the best review ever. Very in depth and you definitely got me thinking about upgrades. And everything you talked about upgrading I was already thinking about
Glad you liked it 😎👍
This is now my Bible of how to build a solid Kraton. Thanks man, your videos are golden
Thank you. I’m glad you like it. 😎👍
SUBBED. just the fact that you have an external mic puts you in the 1% of RC youtubers. Also, very nice and clear presentation style
Thank you. I'm glad to hear it. AJ
How long have u been on youtube?? So few subs.. I have a feeling your channel is going to blow up my friend..
About 4 months. I’m Just getting started. I’m glad you like it. I’m just keeping it real for the world to see. 😎👍
He’s good. I like the lighting, transitions, his presentation... inspiring.
Was just setting up my EXB today, and you were spot on about the diff cases, mine was off just a few thousands, I invested in some aluminum diff cases to start with, based on the information on this video. Now it's set up properly, buttery smooth, no play. Good call!
I’m glad it helped. I’ve been chastised for commenting about the molding process. But I’ve checked and there are differences. Thanks for confirming this fact for me. AJ 😎👍
@@AJJAMStudios yeah, im no chemist, so I cant vouch for the type of plastic they used. But it seems that no two are alike. Also it seems like that's a tiny pinion in the thing considering the amount of power were running through these trucks.
I believe the gearing is designed to help with run time. Gear the diffs low so you can adjust your speed with the pinion size. Small diff pinion equals torque. Large motor pinion equals speed. Thanks for the comment. 😎👍
Thanks for the information... Detailed and I know these upgrades will keep my Kraton in the field and less time on the bench.. Great Review!!
Glad to help
Btw do you have a part number for the wheelie Bars for the Kraton?
man, I'm in the middle of the video and have to checked it once again, you have only 4k subs? WTF... you present the content like a TV guy or something, super pro! Great sound and transitions. Plus very, very informative. I'm just debating with myself, is the EXB Kraton a way to go for me and I've find that vid super helpful. Keep it up!
Thank you. We’re glad we could help. 😎👍
Awesome review, thank you! This level of deepdive is exactly what I was looking for for the EXB
Glad it was helpful!
All RTR bashers need upgrades, they all come out of the box ready to run on a flat smooth surface and not much more then that. Great video!
Great point. Thanks for the comment. AJ
wow... I was avoiding your review vid coming across my feed (out fear of ,"what now"). Silly me! While I've already upgraded the diff bulk heads and diffs(aluminum) and did the shimming both rear and front, I was wondering about the front hub carrier. I did have to work on mine to try and get my camber corrected. I noticed exactly what you were saying about the re threading of that red cap. It took me several attempts to get it back in straight, so I'm sure I did cross thread it. So thank you for that upgraded part! Your content presentation is superb--subbed!
Thank you very much. I’m glad you took the time to check the video out. Welcome to the channel. 😎👍
Subbed. Great vid. Lots of top tips! Thanks. But, it’s nice to support your local hobby shop. They’re there to support the community, hold events, have local inventory for ‘right now’ fixes, advice, bla bla bla.. I’m not an owner nor employee of one, just appreciate having them and the local community. And yea, I do buy stuff on line, too much actually and I feel guilty all the time!
Keep it up, and good luck growing the channel.
I definitely do try and buy local when possible, but sometimes, especially when you need certain parts, like upgrades, you have to source them elsewhere. For this, the internet is the great equalizer. Look local, by all means, which I do, but go where you have to to get what you need. However, I wouldn't feel guilty, if they carried what it is you are looking for, you wouldn't have to look elsewhere. 😎👍
@@AJJAMStudios absolutely! I too do my best but the LHS can’t have everything and it used to be batteries from China were 1/4 the cost!
Great in depth review man! I'll be using your tips for my kraton 6s V4. I've had a few issues with diff pins breaking but nothing big yet, I have some m2c upgrades but I really like those hub carriers, wing mounts and servo saver.
I'm looking forward to your xmaxx review too, I'm considering a mojave exb or XMAXX for my next truck.
You really can't go wrong with either car. The Mojave is fun, fast and durable, however, it is a short course truck, which handles a bit differently from your Kraton. The XMAXX however, is more of what you already have, and I mean more. It's big, bad, and fun as hell to play with. Whichever way you go, you'll love it. Thanks for watching. AJ
Thank you for all this usefull info! Broke my rear hub first time out with the EXB. Great advice for beefing up this car as it breaks. It's encouraging that you have an XMAXX in the background but this car is your go to basher. Cheers!
For 6th scale the Xmaxx is king, but in the 1/8th scale category the Kraton series is hard to beat. Thanks for the comment. AJ
First class video. Now I really want to get a Kraton. I am thinking about getting the V-5 Kraton and doing the upgrades. More bang for the buck.
Right on! 😎👍
Hi AJ,
this is a really good video with great tips, since I get my Arrma one on the weekend, I'll see what I can change.
Greetings from Germany 😎
Awesome. Have fun. Comment with any issues you run into.
Bought 2 new V5 Notorious and 1 new V5 Kraton. On 2 basic grass runs the pinion gear came loose and the centre diff started leaking oil on 1 car. The other 2 haven't been ran yet(thankfully).....So basically I am going to have to properly degrease, clean and Loctite all 3 pinions, check gear mesh, upgrade all 3 motor mounts with M4 bolts, check 8 diffs are tight, add oil and reseal 1, check 6 diff housings are shimmed correctly.
These cars are super expensive in Oz as well. It really pisses me off Arrma's QA is shit house. I would expect this from say my cheap WLToys cars. Hell they may as well advertise on the box - Please Note the entire RC needs to broken down checked over and rebuilt before driving. Great videos BTW TY 👍👍👍
Arrma could definitely use stricter quality control rules for sure. Seems like they all need one thing or another, but after seeing to the issues that plague their rigs they actually perform damn good. Modding is always encouraged for longevity. I hope you get yours up and running soon. Thanks for sharing. AJ
Bro , I think im gonna get one of these tomorrow . A guy has one BNIb I met at my church parking lot . He bought 20 from a hobby shop that closed recently and the deal seems sweet . I like to mod my knives and I like modding RC cars , pew pew, trucks , as well . Also , homes .
Good stuff! Very informative and interesting review. Well appreciated!
Wow what a great video! I don't have a kraton yet, but it's next on my wish list. Keep it up!
I’m glad you like it. Welcome to the channel. 😎👍
Great video 😁 lots of good info 😉 i got the fireteam and have been upgrading. Went through all diffs before even powering up and did metal hubs n knuckels along with RPM arms. Got GPM skid plates and just received a bunch of stuff for next upgrades. Metal diff cases and hardened steel gears along with metal cases for those. Metal center diff mount. Turnbuckles and center brace mounts. Making all metal besides arms for some flex 😁 got a basher skins decal kit for body and top roll bar along with wheelie bar and front bumper upgrades. I have dumped a ton of $ into this thing. Also hooked it up with radiomaster mt12 (expresslrs) and receiver. Great radio 🤯 i was using radiomaster and expresslrs on my drones and wanted similar experience. May even put a o3 air unit on it to use fpv system. Should have miles range. I know it will go further than i can see 🤣 keep the great videos coming man 😁 oh, i also started off with pro line Trenchers. And have all metal bell crank and new servo to put in. Oblique metal gears. Sincecam 37kg
hey buddy well we def think alike with the bending from RPM. They now saved my rear diff housing already twice now just waiting for RPM to send me some new ones for free. i actually snap both of them today. yup did a wheelie going about 40mph and fliped her right off the ground pretty hard. 15T pinion plus with 40 degrees cold weather any kind of plastic will get brittle. One word of advice if you leave your car in the cold before you drive it is a no go. Now im gonna leave here in my house where its about 68 degrees and will help the plastic parts hold up in the cold alot better. always store your rigs in doors not the garage in the winter unless its heated before you use it. this will help the durability by far. Summer time is bashing time for me. great video great tips man yeah i have 2 chip teeth on my front diff and still she is holding up great runs fine. thank god arrma sent us those LSD rear diffs. and for some reason they sent me 2 diff housing lol i guess they know that those molds are fuck up )
Thankyou l just bought the EXB . Any other tips would be appreciated . Great vid 👌👍 Aj
I'm glad we could help. 😎👍
Man love the detail u speak with
Thank you. I’m doing my best. Welcome to the channel. 😎👍
The idea behind the limited slip differentials is that you can have a more open feeling when you're going around turns but a more locked up feeling when you're under acceleration.
Right. That topic came up in the LSD rebuild video. Thanks for the comment. AJ
Great Honest Review and Feedback! New Sub 🤟 Enjoyed the action vids. Driving more like us instead of only clips of “flawless sends” Keep up the super work!!
Thanks for the sub! Will do.
Excellent review! I have Arrma’s since the V2’s and had 90% of the same issues. Especially the rear diff problem. I actually just ordered a 19x16x0.1mm shim for the big bearing (facing the diff house) inside the rear diff. I have to try it but even with two shims on the outside I had a lot of gear stripping problems. Maybe I can set it up better now.
Awesome. Thank you.
Subbed. You should have way more subscribers. Really useful, enjoyable video. I'm late to the party and only just getting my exb but ordered some more parts after watching this 👍
Awesome, thank you!
I drilled a small hole on the front side of my hub carrier on my v2 Outcast. I put a small set screw in the hole and once the cap is set tighten the set screw. My caps no longer back out and the mod cost about &1.50.
Perfect. Good idea. 😎👍
Drive it like ya stole it, great review!
Thanks! 👍
I've never had a shelf of cars, but I've played with Traxxas cars (owning basically one at a time) since around 2007. Rural area, I don't know many people who are even into RC (to exchange ideas or new brands). My current rig is a 3908 emaxx and it works great, but for whatever reason that itch to buy something crept in and Arrma came on my radar in this last week, and I never heard of them before. You're probably about the 6th video I've seen where they say something about that rear diff. That's kinda off putting as someone researching what to buy next. You'd think the company would get that under control.
I'm about 2 and a half minutes into your video, so I'll watch the rest and see what your take is overall, but I'm appreciative of video shares like this one; saves me a headache! So thanks!
Not all of the cars have the diff problems. The issue is the housings, they are not exactly the same inside. They are so close you would not be able to see it but they vary. Out of the many Arrma cars me and my friends have, the odds are about 10% that you will have issues with one diff or another. I've had these issues with just about every brand out there, so it is not exclusive to Arrma. With a little attention to the details when you get yours, you should be able to stave off any problems, but it will require some wrenching and checking before you run it. Shims may be in order to snug everything up to spec, but that's a small price to pay for the performance you should get out of the car. Which car are you thinking of getting?
I was looking at the 1/5 or 1/8 Kraton and I was looking at possibly trying out the roller EXB and doing the electronics myself. Kind of have an itch to try out some FPV, too!
Sounds interesting. Let us know how that works out. AJ
Great vid AJ. Mine fails in the same way so I will consider your approach with upgrades thx
I’m glad I could help. Thank you. 😎👍
That's the first thing I did after receiving mine. Re-shimming the diff and tightening up the ring and pinion backlash is a must. They may have corrected the issue with newer models but I haven't heard of this yet.
Did you get the v5 regular kraton or exb kraton ?
Great video. Thanks for all he tips. I am thinking about getting a Kraton 6s EXB...Very soon so very helpful!
Love all your info! Thx!
Thank you 😎👍
Very informative review! The best ive seen infact. You got yourself a new sub :D
Awesome, thank you! AJ
Dang this must’ve taken forever to make! If you ever pick up an e revo 2.0 the tie rods were revised a while ago and I’d like to see this type of video about it since nobody has since it was first released really. With a couple mods (chassis brace, limiting straps, maybe rpm arms) I think it’d be a top tier truck
Thank you 😎👍
Revod good but it's just too much Traxxas plastic my mt4 ran into my mates Revo at high speed not a touch of damage on mine but can't say the same for the revo.
@@POLITICALYCORRECTify eh, I have a revo 2.0 the only real areas where having metal would benefit it would be the center shaft and maybe diff housing? Rear brace? I kinda prefer plastic chassis (no bending, haven’t broken one yet) but I tend to nosedive off jumps more than I run into things, so plastic is beneficial, no bending 😅
But yea metal vs plastic in a crash RIP soft flexible plastic, I just prefer it for bashing. It’s done insanely well for 2 years now… just gotta put some metal where it belongs 😁
Fantastic video, great detail.
Many thanks!
Love the high quality content!
Thank you Ethan. You rock. 😎👍
That is truly committed & honest review I have seen on EXB Kraton! How does the rear diff holding up for u sir? LSD or Open rear diff?
Thanks. As for the diff, I blew the stock one right away and quickly switched to a locked V4 diff. But I did rebuild the original diff (LSD) and put it back in. Shimming properly matters. Now it runs good with the LSD diff back in place. Thanks again for the comment. 😎👍
Nice video.....thanks.....is there a video shows how to change the Hubs carriers?
I think Kevin Talbot has one. They are pretty simple. Thanks.
Great video, have you bent your shock towers, braces or chasis yet?
Nope. It is still holding up. Thanks for asking 😎👍
@@AJJAMStudios thanks seems like a lot of folks think it a must to add a bunch of m2c upgrades, but I’ll see how the stock stuff holds up. I did install hot racing bulkheads, but the rest of my new exb is stock 😎 hopefully it holds up well to some good bashing!
Depending on your driving style it should hold up. the EXB parts are pretty good, in our opinion, but skate parks will destroy any RC, it's just a matter of time. Good luck. 😎👍
@@AJJAMStudios yeah, first I need to learn how to control and land it before sending it off a ramp. No skate parks, just dirt bmx tracks👍
You got yourself a Sub mate, keep it going!
Thank you. I plan on it. Welcome to the channel. 😎👍
Also, Arrma wheel nuts come loose fast, no matter how tight you put them. After lots of testing, ORANGE locktite is the magic trick. Strong as red but does not need heating to remove. Shredding brand new tires first run gets expensive. FYI
If it works, run it. Loctite is good stuff. Thanks for the info. 😎👍
I’ve got the m2c lock nuts and they work wonders only 7-8$ also check em out,
@@derekquinones8614dude! I thought they only worked on traxxas! The threat works on Arrma? That’s a game changer Dude!!!
Thanks for this in depth thorough review on this truck. I just bought one on early Black Friday for that heck of a deal they were having. I too like you am going to power it with the blx2050kv motor I have and a Spektrum 150a stock esc. I’m going with a PowerHd 40kg servo though and a dx5c I have spare. Should be a fun budget basher build for me. 👋🇨🇦
Where at?
It is a great rig. The front arms have issues, but the video covers that. Have fun. AJ
@@lazerwolf01 tower hobbies I managed to get one online
@@AJJAMStudios thanks. I will look into the rpm arms on the front as you mentioned. 👋
@@longboardguy thank you
Awesome video! There wasn’t anything I didn’t like. Your honest funny and knows some stuff. Great editing/music. Very well done I subscribed and I’ll be back for more
Thank you for the compliment. I'm glad you like it here. AJ
great detailed look full of info...
Thank you 😎👍
got the roller!!!! upvoted!!!
Awesome 😎👍
Thank you!
If it were just a “shim issue “.....there would have been no need for a redesign😎.
Great point!
There wasn't a redesign? What?
Very nice instructional vid thumps up
Thank you 😎👍
Just installing a Max6 and 1650kv into mine right now!
Sounds like fun 😎👍
Great video.👍👍
I am interested in this particular model but as a one handed person, my question is.... can the batteries and connectors be unplugged, removed with one left hand ? thank you - for the rest, you have awesome video's about rc's and my first car, the UDR is also one of your favorites i see... and this udr can be handled perfectly with one hand. but i want a second one to bring some variety in my new hobby 🙂
I understand your situation and feel the connectors for most RC cars will be a problem. Building a hard mount for the speed control connector could fix the issue but stock I think you will have issues with the connector. Also, the Velcro may be difficult but if you are somewhat adept with one hand you may be able to overcome that issue. The UDR is special as it has hard connectors and a battery box with a locking door, which would definitely work better for you. However, with a bit of clever engineering I think you could overcome those issues. Best of luck. Let me know what you think. AJ 😎👍
@@AJJAMStudios thnx for the swift reply. as you say, also the velcro's are a bit tricky. but traxxas id connector seems to be the best and most obvious choice and the maxx and maxx x have battery compartment. another choice is the rock rey plus.... so, for my second RC i have already 3 choices - I always see the positive in every situation and have already learnt alot from your video's and your tears of expericience - thanks and keep up the good work!
I hope we were helpful to you. We here try and help as much as we can. That being said, I hope you let us know which car you wind up choosing. And at some point I hope you elaborate on how things work out for you, because I'm sure you are not the only one out there with an issue like that. I think it would be a good thing to share, you know, to help others along the way and all. Thanks for the compliment and being part of our conversations here on the channel. AJ
@@AJJAMStudios hey, i will surely keep you informed what car i eventually gonna call my "second car" and eagerly follow your YT channel as you always come with honest and correct reviews ! allthoughthere are many RC YT'ers, you are one of the best and one can see that you have a lot of experience as an independant reviewer (so not subjective) for now happy holidays and a healthy 2022 !
Great video AJ! Do you like RPM arms front & rear? Also, I’ve had an issue with breaking shock ends. Do you think the more flexible arms will help that? Do you also do shock bumpstops ever? Thanks.
Bump stops can be useful but I usually pass on the idea because of the stress it adds to the suspension. As far as the RPM arms go, for the V4 Kraton 6s I like them all the way around. But for the EXB Talion it is front only. The shock end issue can be solved by using the EXB shock ends. I hope this helps. AJ
awesome review new subscriber here. from philippines..
Welcome to the channel 😎👍
Good stuff. What about taping off the holes in the wheel so nothing gets inside and not poking holes in the tire? Does that do anything?
It helps, but when the tires fight to grow it creates vacuum. This can effect the way the tires handle this negative pressure and cause other issues-in the long run. Venting tires prevents this issue. At least, that is how I understand it. Thanks for asking. 😎👍
When I brought mine I payed the shop an extra 90 bucks to shim the diffs. A must I heard especially with a powerful motor like the 1717 I put in and locked centre diff with 500,000 oil.
The Diffs are not that hard to do, it is usually just the shop clearing overhead that makes it cost so much. Learning to do it yourself can be so much more rewarding when you get it right. 😎👍
@@AJJAMStudios yeah I want to but I have never had anyone to show me n I'm not confident to pull shit apart by myself coz I'm woried I'll get stuck with it in pieces.
I understand. Puzzles are not my thing either, but sometimes we all have to solve one. I would only attempt the job if I felt confident in my abilities. Best of luck. 😎👍
@@AJJAMStudios I want to learn but I want to get someone who knows what their doing n pay them to watch n guide me through it. Then I won't have the anxiety of ending up with a car in pieces lol. Better to pay someone once n learn rather than everytime I need stuff done
Just ordered the atomic pillow balls because the inserts of my stock EXB popped out on the upper control arm as well as I cross threaded the plastic reinserting a new one which mistakingly bought before buying the Atomic. So now I will have 8 inserts as backups. Hopefully same thread sizing. Question: Do I need to add a dry grease on the balls to prevent any friction on the 6000 series aluminum they are made out of being that the ball joints are steel? Do the Atomiks use Delrey bushings like the M2C Racing insert kit? I hope these are all you said they are. Have you had any problems with the tension inserts backing out from vibration. Locktight?
No Loctite. And yes, I use silicone lube for those. And no, I haven't had the inserts back out with the aluminum replacements. As far as "all I said it was", Mine still kicks @#%, and I've had no issues whatsoever once I did the upgrades. So...
Best of luck with yours. AJ
My servo saver is stiff and doesnt give much at all. But i think alluminum just going to wear down. I had alluminum pivot balls on my kraton 4s and after 4-6 months they worn out completely and had to trow them away
I've run aluminum servo savers for many years and in various cars. I've found that the amount of movement within the unit is usually negligible. However, the plastic ones "do break" from time to time. Also, movement within the unit is necessary to protect the servo itself. There are many ways to achieve this outcome, so choosing is "as always" up to you. The process "as shown in the video" is only my preferred method for solving this issue and not in any way a demand that everyone do this to their cars. Long days of running and bashing have confirmed to me, at least, that this way does, in fact, work, however, I'm well aware that other methods exist for coping with the issues the EXB presents. I hope this helps. As always, thanks for the comment. AJ
@@AJJAMStudios i understand the issue is friction. Aluminum doesnt like friction. Thats why pivot balls are made from steel 95% of the time. Plastic is more resistant imo to friction wear than aluminum. And also aluminum doesn't like water much once the anodizing is out
Great video! Have you ever used WD-40 and soaked the tough EXB plastic? It definitely softens the plastic and allows for more flex. It’s a little cheaper way to get the same flex as the RPM plastics. Muc Off works too and I clean my RC’s with it and over time I does the same thing. I’ve been thinking of pulling the trigger on the EXB! New sub and enjoy what you do jj
Yes the WD40 does soften the plastic, but it does nothing to fix the driveshaft issues. The EXB has problems with the front driveshafts popping out. That was the reason for the arm change. RPM is just my go-to because of their plastic durability. Also, their arm design did in fact stop the driveshaft issue. Thanks for the comment. AJ
Id love to see a RC factory tour. See what these guys are up to.
So would I. 😎👍
AJ! Your freakin Awesome Bro!🤘🔥🏆🔥🏆🔥🏆🔥🏆🔥🏆🔥
It’s good to hear from you Speed. You’ve been away from us for a while.
If you guys haven’t seen SpeedSyko’s channel you should check it out, he’s awesome!!!
@@AJJAMStudios you’re the manAJ!🤙
Got mine today. Two external venting holes on each tire, none in the rim.
Arrma actually listens to the bashing community. 😎👍
excellent video thank you very much
Glad you liked it!
I just got my first kraton which of course had to be a exb. I had a couple questions. First off what weight diff fluids do you prefer? Secondly I’ve been thinking about going with the dumborc controller as well because I’ve heard nothing but good things about it. The question I have is did you go with one with a gyro built in? My hoss has a gyro and honestly I’m not sure how much difference it makes but it’s only about $10 more for the dumborc with it included in the receiver so I’m thinking why not but am curious which you chose and why? Thank you and keep making such great informative videos!!!
Fluids: 10k front, 30k rear, 200k center. This seems to handle just fine for me. You’ll have to decide for yourself if it works for you. And I have the Dumbo RC and they do work well. But I find the DX3 to be more versatile. It has better controls and simple setup. It also has an analog brake dial for instant break adjustments on different traction surfaces. I know, the DX3 does not come with the 6 channel receiver but, I think, it’s worth the money. Still, the Dumbo does work good. If money is an issue I would, and have, gone with the dumbo. Best of luck in your bashing. 😎👍
@@AJJAMStudios thank you!!!
I wouldn’t be able to use a gyro with the spectrum radio correct? That’s another reason I was thinking about going with the dumborc with included gyro. Or are you not a fan of their gyros?
I also liked that I could get a rechargeable lipo or lion pack for the dumborc remote.
The DumboRC is fair enough to use, but I like the Spektrum AVC system a bit better. It is simple to setup and the onboard controls make it simple to adjust. The DumboRC system works too, so there's that to consider. We've got both systems in the studio, but we've slowly phased out the DumboRC stuff in favor of the newer tech. Either way, I think you can't go wrong -- especially if money is a thing. Thanks for the conversation. PS, your comments wound up in the spam category and I just found them, sorry for the delayed response. AJ
I hope you read this!! I know this video is old but the wheelie bar that you have. Do you know exactly where i can get it or maybe a link? I can not find it all. Please help. thanks.
T bone racing in Hayden Lake has a website: Tboneracing.net. They are the only ones who might still have it.
Hi AJ,
Your video is helpful!
Could you please send the link of the upgraded servo saver? I can’t find it on eBay. Thanks in advance.
Regards,
Sam
Integy Aluminum Billet Machined Steering Bell Crank for Arrma 1/8 Kraton 6S BLX. Search this to find it.
Great video AJ but I'm kind of new to modifying RC bashers. I went and bought the RPM part numbers you showed on the video for the Kraton EXB. In my case, I'm finding they are not that great of a fit. The sway bar mounts are too far out and cause the links to bind or pop off and the stock shock pins are about 1/2" too long for the RPM mounting hole locations. I bought my Kraton EXB new about three weeks ago. Did you have to do modifications to make the RPM parts work or maybe the latest EXB versions have changed slightly? Just curious, I'm about to put the original parts back on but was really looking forward to making it a bit more bulletproof with the new parts.
I forgot to include the V4 Kraton sway bar switch out. It’s a small thing. I’m sorry for leaving that out of the video. With the V4 sway bar for the rear the parts went on fairly easily. Don’t give up, it’s worth the effort. 😎👍
Great. Thanks for the additional info and by the way, I've watched numerous you tube videos and yours are some of the very best for content and knowledge. Thank you.
@@Murfdawgrc I will add this information to the video description so the issue won't pop up in the future. Thank you for bringing it to my attention. And thanks for the comment. I do try. AJ
I dont understand how you can so casually accept that the rear diff did not come with the right shimming causing the teeth to wear out right away and having to repair it. This is an expensive part. If I paid 800$ for a product and it broke in the next hour due to factory defect, I would be pissed if I had to replace it out of my pocket. ! What 50-60$ to replace the diff parts? What about warranty? Your are far more patient than I am. Good review though. Keep'em coming.
We've been at this for a very long time now and over that time we've realized that no RC is perfect. Straight out of the box things can be a little sketchy from time to time. Personally, I don't like the warrantee process at all, no matter what company is involved, and I hate complaining to a manufacturer about a part that had failed. I would rather just replace or upgrade it and have that behind me, plus we here dig wrenching on these small machines, so that to us, is a bonus. As far as the cost goes, the extra expenditure can be a little off putting to be sure and shouldn't be necessary in the first place, but we've learned to move past that and try and focus on what could be, instead of what happened with the cars. Knowing a diff failed, for example, as we see it, only allows us the opportunity to rip it apart and diagnose the issue. This tests our minds and allows for free thought as to how the issue may be resolved. For us, we here see it as a challenge not a defeat. I hope this helps you understand how we see things like this.
P,S, I have a friend who purchased an Arrma Kraton 6s RTR. He was so excited to get it. Then, when he got it out of the box, the car would not go into reverse. Needless to say he was "Upset" and he was chattering on about returning it, and how it should work as advertised. I got involved and diagnosed the issue and in less than a minute his Kraton was working as it was supposed to. What floored me was that car was, at the time, the best basher out there, and he was willing to send it back for a simple setup issue. I would have replaced the speed control, shelling out even more, just to get the thing running so I could play with it. Fort him, it became a trophy, a rig he seldom uses and will not bash, but for me it is nothing more than a tool designed to place a smile on my face as is tumbles and soars off the ramps. For us here, it is the joy of the thing, not the cost. Sorry for the long winded response, and thanks for commenting. 😎👍
Hi, Love the review . Im trying to find the alloy Atomic hub carriers @ Atomic rc but I cant seem to find the part on their site,would you have a link ? Thank you
I cannot find the Atomic carriers, but Integy makes billet aluminum carriers too, and in many colors. I've used them and they work well. Plus, they are readily available. Best of luck. AJ
@@AJJAMStudios the atomic are on eBay little pricey but very well made
I meant the vitavon bulkheads are the ones I bought on eBay very nice!
Great information! Thanks! Subscribed! :)
Thank you. AJ
Kevin Talbot says to not put holes in your tires plus cover the holes in the wheels with duck tape. he's never had I problem. I started it about a yr ago. I noticed me tires are lasting longer
If it works for you, it works. Bash on.
Underrated
Thank you.
Is the shimming still a problem in New exb s?
Good question. Since they are still built with the same housings, I would say yes. I would still check the shimming before getting busy with my car. Thanks for asking. 😎👍
Great vid! Subbed 😁👊
Thank you. 😎👍
I have some videos of approx 60ft jumps and the exb takes some serious abuse. Definitely not perfect as you say but step in the right direction for arrma making a tough basher... i found that wd40 tends to soften the arms a bit making them last longer just a tip 🙂
Just spray it on and leave it? Take the arms off first or keep it on the car. ?
@@POLITICALYCORRECTify I was just using a soft brush to clean and coat the arms with wd40. I have since switched to simple green due to the wd40 smell. Also if you use wd40 I would suggest wiping it off before your next outing. If you don't dirt tends to stick to the arms easier. Using simple green you won't have to do that.
To vent my tires I use the soldering iron it work really well
Your the man 🏴
Thank you 😎👍
@@AJJAMStudios I am nee to the sport I’m going to start with a Kraton 6s Roller that will give a good base to start from. Your Vids are very helpful and very well explained. Could you recommend a 26kg Servo pls. Jim Currie Scotland 🏴
Many manufacturers make the proper type. I search EBay for my servo needs. Look at the ratings, make it waterproof, and all metal gears. The prices vary, so you can decide how much you wish to spend. Also, high speed is a plus. Good hunting. AJ
@@AJJAMStudios AJ is it possible to put the Kraton 8 s motor and controller etc in a 6s Roller. I assume that the smaller chassis will not work well with an 8s set up 🤷♂️
AJ how does a Savox 1231 servo look 🤔
MUY BUEN VIDEO AMIGO!! ME GUSTO MUCHO!! EXCELENTE TRABAJO! 😁😁😁+1
Thank you. I'm glad you like it. AJ
Great video
Thank you. I really enjoy mine. I think you will too. 😎👍
I never ask a question before on these sights. I have an issuses and if anybody would have seen this you might have. On the Kraton 8S .transmission . The shaft that holds the spur gear on. The outside bearing next to the spur cover. I notice that the beating race is loose on mine. I cant be the only one. But if it is loose it makes the race shake and loose of power. Tou have to look close while the truck is on blocks and whe wheels engaged. I been wondering if an aftermarket would solve the problem or just a set screw mounted to the housing.
A new bearing should fix the issue. I’ve been using aftermarket bearings that are sealed and they work well enough. My local shop usually has them for the cars they sell. I would definitely try this first. I hope this helps. Thanks for asking. 😎👍
Great vid and review dude, well done. Very informative. Just need to question you at 47:00 to 47:10 you say you put the 2nd thickest oil in the rear and thinnest in the front? I always thought it was the other way around. On my V4 I have 200k center, 30k in the rear and 60k in the front.
How would your setup differ to mine? Just curious. 🤔
Subed
Thanks for the question. In fact, I have a vid coming out next week that deals with that exact question. I guess it serves to say, You are not wrong on your setup, if the car does what you want it to do. I like the rear to drift easier and the front to maintain traction. Also, the center is the most important, as it imparts the power to the drivetrain, and I don't like over-spin on my front tires. I also like more dig in the rear. For your setup, and not having driven the car myself, I would only guess that having thicker fluid in the front would limit wheelspin from side to side, but the lighter fluid in the rear may allow more push in the corners. I may be a bit off, due to the variables involved. Let me know how your car handles, I'm curious. AJ
Very good Video. Thank you. I could get the v4 Kraton quite cheap because the v5 is out. On the other hand i think it would be better to get the EXB. What do you think? Buy the v4 and upgrade what breaks or buy the EXB?
The chassis is weak on the v4. So are the chassis braces. However, I love my v4. Either way, upgrades are needed. With the v4 you get an RTR platform, so you won’t have to buy electrics to make it operational. So there is that to consider. That aside, the EXB is a great machine too. The choice has to be yours. Thanks for asking. AJ 😎👍
where did u order that wheely bar? cant find it
Tbone racing on EBay. But I don’t think they make it anymore.
@@AJJAMStudios Great, just ordered a wheely bar for a kraton 4s, it was very similar. and the only one I could find for a kraton. damn
Great video! 👍 help me please, kraton 6s v5 or exb?
I guess it depends upon how willing you are to build your car. The EXB comes as a roller, which means you will have to install a radio system, servo, speed controller, and motor. That is just the way they come. I set mine up with the V4 running gear and a much faster radio, which all costs extra. Thinking that way, how willing are you to invest in a car that basically comes as an RTR in the V5. It may not have all of the upgrades the EXB has, but it the cost should be lower, which means, when you bend or break something you will have a little extra left over to upgrade it. You can buy the EXB chassis, shock towers and so forth. As I see it, there really is no wrong way to go here. RTR gets you up and running like now, while you get to wrench on the EXB before you can pull the trigger. I hope this helps. AJ
@@AJJAMStudios Thank you very much! I already have version 5, it's new. I was thinking of switching to exb or staying with v5 and upgrading it over time.
I have a question if you had to pick between the 1/5 DBXL-E 2.0 and the 1/5 KRATON 4WD EXtreme Bash Roller which would you pick for fun bashing and reliability. I found all the electronics for EXB Kraton and they come out to the same price so because of that I don't know which to pick for a good fun, tuff basher out of the box. Thank you.
It really comes down to your opinion of the two cars. The DBXL-e is BIG and fun, but it is also heavy, weighing in at about 30 lbs w/batteries. The parts sometimes have trouble dealing with the weight, but those are small issues. As far as the Kraton goes, what I've seen of them tells me they are going to require some serious upgrades to go fast and bash hard continuously. Now, I don't have a 1/5th scale Kraton in my collection, but I do do my homework. Still, the choice has to be yours. I wish I could be more help here. I'm afraid my experience with the DBXL-e makes my argument a bit one sided. Bear in mind, I love both Arrma and Losi, so I can't really see a down side here. PS, I love my DBXL-e 2.0...if that helps. AJ
@@AJJAMStudios Thank you for the help!!
Parts list and where to get them?
Ihave 2 exbs and i clipped a lot of things and they never pooped. I cross threaded once but but they never work themselve loose and they are hard to spin. Idk how they come loose. I like them personally yes the cross threading csn be an issue
My EXB front driveshafts began popping out on day one, and popped out every time I ran the car. Frustrating, to be sure. However, the EXB pillow balls, "fine thread" work just fine. The V4 balls are the ones that come loose. Thanks for the comment. AJ
@@AJJAMStudios that was an issue i heard i sanded down the red aluminum ring and remove the top clip. It never poped on both of mine. The mojave i didnt do the mod im just lazy i guess XD. And the driveshaft is kinda far inside the cup
One of my mojave red nuts was cross threaded in from factory i tried my best to make it streight. Cross threaded it like 6 times trying. But its in there really tight. I use a T style alen key and need a lot of twisting to turn them maybe im just lucky. I bought spares for both trucks thinking it would be a common failure not so far. My mojave ran in -20 weather. And snow
Hi AJ , how are you powering your twin motor fans on the Kraton EXB? And what leads are you using to connect. Trying to run a simuliar set up.
Many thanks
Direct connection to the radio. Dual plugs. 😎👍
@@AJJAMStudios thanks AJ so a plug for each fan in aux 1 and aux2. Do you have the cable link please as there’s so many and it’s confusing 🙏
Yes. Your local hobby shop should have an adapter to combine them if you need.
@@AJJAMStudios thanks AJ they are not fond of this idea and saying I need a battery capacitor , so why I’m asking on here bud. They said it’s too much for the receiver.
I’ve had no issues with it. A capacitor wouldn’t hurt though. By the way, who’s they?
can you vent manually non - vented tires with a solder head ?
Yes, as long as it is a small pointed iron. Also, be sure you have proper ventilation when doing this because it produces a significant amount of smoke. Beyond that, be sure to tape over the inner vent holes of the wheels to prevent loading of the foam from the inside. Thanks for asking. AJ
@@AJJAMStudios thank you for your answer. Another question is I am wondering to create a selling business on bearings and bushings what do you think? Do you miss some products / dimensions on these topics?
It's always nice to find a new vendor for products concerning our hobby. Bearings are sometimes hard to locate without going down to the local bearing company and searching through stacks of books to locate a certain bearing. There are companies that do that sort of thing, of course, and my local shops do carry some of them in stock, but not for all the different cars, only the prominent ones. A company that can assemble a bearing kit for just about any car and ship it direct might just be the ticket for this market. I would love to be able to place an order for a particular type of car and have that bearing set assembled and shipped out to me perhaps with a sealed or not sealed option, depending upon the buyers request. It would make things nice and tidy. Well...that's my opinion on the matter. I hope it helps. AJ
I bent some of the heavy duty plastic parts in my v5, boiling them in water for a few minutes put them right back into their original shape
Awesome content 👍
What’s the general price to get the Keaton rolling with electronics etc
Is there a specific aluminum servo saver you'd recommend?
Not really. Most of the aluminum ones are tough enough to handle the issues involved. On eBay, search: Kraton 6s bell crank set. Many options pop right up and they do not cost much. Pick the set that speak to you and give them a try. Personally, I like the billet machined ones.
This is the set we used:
www.ebay.com/itm/134497770021?hash=item1f50b11a25:g:McEAAOSwDMNkF~fK
Thanks for asking. 😎👍
The rpm droop screws do not align with the chassi ears
I do not understand. The EXB grub screws on mine line up just fine. The mushroom head must be down to widen the contact area, and "on mine" at least, they do line up. I've inspected this myself. Thanks for having me check my findings. AJ
@@AJJAMStudios maybe rpm released a exb version for the arms. But i know in the arrmaforrum picture of rpm arms the grub screws not lining up at all with the ears and that causes ur rod ends to snap.
I can't explain that, because mine are working fine, and they contact the ears just fine. By the way, they are the same arms designed for the V4.