Install Wall Hung Laundry Utility Tub, Washer Standpipe, Air Admittance Valve
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ส.ค. 2024
- Older laundry tubs drain the washing machine leaving dirt and soap scum stains.
Discharging the rinse water into a standpipe keeps the tub clean. Using an air admittance valve ensures the tub will drain smoothly and gives you a clean-out. And the hanging unit allows for adjusting the height higher or lower, and removes the legs being on the floor.
Some points and tips:
- the standpipe should be 30 - 36 inches to prevent water overflow
- deburr cut PVC pipe as lint and material will catch to create blockages
- glued PVC needs a twist to assure a good connection
- use a carbide bit for masonry walls
- it is best and easier to drill a smaller hole first, then drill the correct size hole
- put the tub’s trap on before the lower plumbing for correct measurements
- after connections are hand-tightened, run hot to check for leaks, then tighten again
- the air admittance valve prevents air lock, and sewer gas odor
www.mrhardware....
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VERY SNEAKY....You didn't show every body when you shortened the distance between the tees and dropped the sink trap lower to make room for the air valve.
Probably would work better if that air valve is higher than the sink drain too.
I don't think it will work better, only safer considering that everything 'mechanical' will fail someday, and if the vent is higher water won't come out of it. I always keep my vents 'high' when I can and always accessible. Some day they will need to be changed.
Yes, I noticed that little unmentioned mistake correction also. Would have been nice to mention that the full drain assembly should be dry fit before gluing to avoid such rework.
Should be 4 inches or so above the trap, but sometimes lack of room is a lack of room.
@@LTVoyager common sense bud. Rough draft first.
sneakrevived People with common sense don’t watch videos like this. 😁
I don't know how I found you, but i'm glad I did. Great vid. Keep making them, your a natural.
Run hot water to get a quarter more turn I great advice.
Good job ...however I think since you were adding a washing machine standpipe you should have mention the height limitations for it. The minimum and maximum heights, as required by code and to avoid potential problems.
Excellent , just excellent explanation and parts!! Am subscribing!!
Exactly the project I am about to do. Thank you.
If you're in Michigan. And need an apprentice hire me. Thank you for this video
Call the store if you want a Jon, 586-776-9532, ask for Jennifer
Very nicely done and your explanations are very helpful.
Thanks
An AAV is supposed to be 6" above the rim of the sink.
exactly what I was looking for..cats kept jumping on the old metal standup sink and loosening the fittings on me..couldn't figure out why is was leaking every once in a while..i'll do your technique..thanks
That air valve is supposed to be 18 inches above the highest point of the water where it enters the system
Actually 4” above the trap weir. Check the code.
Nice video, your second try, sanitary tee for the sink could be improved with a street sanitary tee, and does your total install time include demolition and reinstallation of sink standard sanitary tee?
yes, that was from the intro to the water testing.
Thanks for posting this, much appreciated.
WHY post a video in which you made a boo boo and failed to mention it ? You lowered the line and added an extension to the drain and didn't say a word.
Shouldn't the air vent be positioned above the top of the sink. If the drain ever gets clogged you may get contaminants in the valve preventing it to seal properly.
I do when I can. The vent, like anything mechanical will require replacement or cleaning some day so keeping it accessible is most important. However a clog should not effect the seal in the vent as it should be closed at the time of the clog.
I have a washing machine in the basement and the sewer main exits through the foundation at around 3 feet high. An 2"air vent comes off the cleanout about 18" above that with a 4X4X2TEE. Then a 2"X2X1.5" tee to a 1.5"trap for the washing machine. This has a standpipe but its tops out about 6 feet high. Im installing a filtrol filter, they claim washing machine pumps are max'd at 6'. The filter casing is about a foot high. Im now at 7' . Im considering building a platform to place the washing machine on. Is ther another way?
I like to install a lift pump in the floor of the basement so I can have sinks and other stuff draining into it. You can even add a toilet and if you buy the right one it will raise waste from the toilet up to the sewer line.
Didn't think we would catch you messed up the drain and changed it to fit air admittance valve. haha
Woops, I started w/the tee to high. Glad to see someone keeping an eye on me!
Well at least he didn't just cut out that part of the video. Most viewers would not catch it and us plumbers would just say. "That's why we use tubular tailpieces." I do like how clear and concise Gilbert's videos are. A lot of other videos are 95% bloopers, handwaving and fluff and 5% content. Gilberts videos are 96% clear instruction with succinct callouts for the parts.
All site-built projects are moving targets up to the very end. He mentioned possibly raising the faucet but after checking the fit decided the deck was high enough since it was only 1/4 thick.
Thanks for the videos! Keep up the great work!
Thanks man, Blair
Great video very helpful well done !!
Nice suspenders
Good video! Friendly reminder to always wear Safety Glasses/Goggles when drilling.
Great video. My configuration is similar, with some unavoidable differences. Unfortunately, my washer waste water backs up into the sink. A potentially crucial difference between your configuration and mine is that my drain pipe to the city is a horizontal pipe about 12" above the floor. Because of this, my standpipe's P-trap is installed a couple of inches higher than the drain pipe to the city. The run between my standpipe and the street pipe is about 30". My sink's P-trap is connected on that horizontal run with a 2" x 1.5" Tee fitting, about 28" downstream from the standpipe. The top of the standpipe is ~28" above the bottom of its P-trap and about 30" above the bottom of the horizontal run. As such, it is ~9" above the top of the washer tub and sink basin. Any idea what is causing the washer's drain water to back up into the sink? BTW, if I plug the sink's drain, water over flows the standpipe. Is my standpipe too short?
It could be your line is not vented properly and/or it could be getting a little clogged do the buildup of lint and soap, and such. lack of venting can cause a line that becomes overwhelmed with water to Lock up.
that's a great idea! I'll be doing that. thanks
How long can the run be going horizontally from the standpipe over to the washer? I.e. how far away can the washer be from the standpipe?
6"to 8' w/out a vent, I don't know the distance with the vent but it is over 20'. Check with the local plumbing inspector for more exact lengths.
@@blairgilbert7606 thanks so much! I only need about 5 feet so I should be good!
thanks ...
Thanks for the video. I recently moved in a house and currently the washer water drains to a utility sink, under it is pump that drains out to the city pipe(city pipe runs horizontal about 5 ft from ground in basement)
Is there a way to dump the washer drain directly to a pump motor w/o going to the sink or some other method that involves no sink ?
You can get a sewage eject her system which is a waterproof tank with the pump in it you can Bury in the floor and then your sink in your washing machine could go directly into it, which will eliminate the pump that’s underneath your laundry tub now.
Great video, thx
In this setup, when using the washer, will any of the water back up into the utility sink?
Only if the drain line below is clogged. Blair
How do you know when assembling a P-trap which is the right side. Isn't one side of the U pipe taller than the other side ?
The high Side is the inlet, the low side gets the wall tube or the pipe with the bend in it which goes to the wall. That way the trap will hold about an inch and a half of water to keep the sewer gases from coming into the house. Occasionally with the disposal that’s too low I have to install a P-trap backwards to accommodate how low I disposal is.
is it not code for the p-trap to be a certain distance from the floor where you're located? believe its 6"-18" down here in La
I do believe code requires that the distance to a trap cannot exceed 36 inches or so, but distance from the floor is nothing I ever had encountered.
@@MrHardware1 yes sir it dont make much sense to me, but i checked my local code and it sure enough says trap weir to floor must be between 6"-18". only thing i remember seeing for distance to trap was that from trap weir to the vent must be at least twice the diameter of the pipe. so for 2" pipe, the vent has to be 4" from the trap weir.
@@LifeWithTheLords I cannot find any place in the code where it says the distance the trip we are to the floor. Bathtubs, floor drains and slop sinks the trap is below the floor. The only distance code I see regarding a trap is a maximum of 24 inches from the weir to the bottom of the fixture, and others of course but no reference of trap to floor.
Great video! Thanks!!
Hi and thank you for an informative video. I was wondering if the bracket you used to hang the tub was universal or specific to that tub manufacturer. I have a generic utility tub I want to hang on a wall and trying to figure safe way to do that. Thanks again!
I think you'll have trouble hanging that tub. The wall mounts come with the bracket and filler 'wings' that support the lower part of the tub against the wall. Not that you can't McGilbert a system, it won't be easy. Blair
New-ish homeowner here! 😄 Is there a way to do this with just a floor drain beneath the existing utility sink? Or modify it to have the pipe out of the floor like in the video? The sink/washer is currently draining into an open floor drain and I’d really like to change it.
Send a picture of the drain plumbing below the sink. That is where the connection will be made.
Good tips!
Isn't the trap supposed to be min 6"of the floor? Also should you be using a wye 1/8 instead of a tee?
I can't comment on the trap height, but I've passed 3 inspections with this same configuration.
According to my guru you can use a sanitary tee or a wye in this application.
@@MrHardware1 ok. Cool. Thanks for the response. Was just curious!
Wye is illegal for stack venting. It will block air flow for the trap seal and could possibly siphon.
@@sdotmurda Im talking about where the washer comes in the system. Everything I've read says that should not be a tee. Then again I'm not a licensed plumber. Just a diy guy that wants to know things. My stand pipe for my washer in my basement runs into a stack that has a sink above it on the second floor. When I cut that stack to add the standpipe I was told that the tie in from the standpipe into the stack couldn't be a tee. It had to be a combination wye. That's why I was asking
@@EGGINFOOLS I think the reason it needs to be a Wye is because it's a wet vent meaning it also is a drain but it's big enough to be used for a vent.
Shouldn’t the trap be higher off the floor. I would say at least 18 inches
Nope, the trap can be anywhere as long as there is a 30/36" standpipe above it. Your washing machine discharge hose will be high on the wall, and to what end? Actually too high or too far from a vented line and you have to revent, keeping it low prevents suction and the water exits the trap.
Do you still use a lint trap in your standpipe?
I don't but every several years I use a strong acidic drain opener, 3 small doses 10 minutes apart, wait 10 more minutes more then flush with lots of water. The lint filter in the pipe is hidden and will either squirt water or blow off the end of the pipe and clog the trap if you don't change it monthly or more.
More about the tailpiece would have been helpful
What kind of material is made that sink? Band? Thank you.10:44
It is a ridgid form of plastic. I can't tell you the compositon but the brand is Mustee. I like them, hate the legs on all others.
it is made out of polypropylene
Haha, you make it look so easy ! Great video !
Just get too many parts, that will reduce wasted trips to the store.
Mr. Hardware Pretty nice work. Here are a few suggestions: 1) Don't use purple primer. Use clear primer and clear glue for prettier work. 2) I would have used a "no-hub band" on the discharge side of the lower tee connecting to the 2" coming out of the floor (for possible future changes) 3) There is no way into the standpipe trap, except going down through the standpipe. I would either put a Swivel P-trap on or a clean-out tee on the horizontal pipe dumping into the tee, or I would use another "no-hub band" to allow access into the standpipe trap. 4) The Air-admittance valve should be rolled out from under the sink and extended 6" above the flood level rim of the sink that it is serving. The thinking here is that if the drain ever plugs and backs up, the water will fill the sink and flood out rather than potentially backup out of the Air Admittance Valve. I would then pin the Air Admittance pipe to the wall. Lastly, I would try to install a faucet block on the sink to hold the faucet.
All in all, I would give you a "B" to "B+" for this work. Missing the correct height of the trap is totally a no-no. I don't believe that anyone should ever be proud of how little time a job took, instead be proud of how good the work is. Contributed by a Retired Master Plumber Extraordinaire.
@@acemcflanders1704 - "1) Don't use purple primer. Use clear primer and clear glue for prettier work."
You an "F" for that suggestion. Michigan code - where he is working from - demands purple primer for jobs like this.
"P3003.9.2 Solvent cementing Joint surfaces shall be clean and free from moisture. A purple primer that conforms to ASTM F656 shall be applied."
5:15
My wife has a lot of sewer smell
You don't need primer for drain pipes..
Doing to much