I have a large format 3D printer (Creality CR-10 Smart), but I wasn't sure if a 3D printed throat plate would work in the table saw. You've given me the confidence to try. Guess what I'm doing this weekend? 🤣 Thanks for the video and the great idea. Cheers. 👍
Great work and presentation. I’ve thought of bandsaw kerf inserts but not table saw. I also knew about the kerf tabs but didn’t think of just putting holes on my wooden insert and adding them. Should probably do that. Being new to 3D printing I don’t know exactly how much infill for finished items like this need. Test it low and final just go full fill if it’s within reason. Amount of filament and print time that isn’t insane.
I printed a hole drilling jig and used 5% infill but set 4 walls thickness, you get some saving in filament but the area around each hole has plenty of walls around and is plenty strong.
What a cool use for 3D printing! I'm thinking of making a few dowelling jigs (just a 5mm thick flat plate with a few cylinders with 9mm holes spaced out) which will have the advantage that I can make them to my specs and print more if I damage any of them. Also I've discovered another use for 3D printing - if I want to get a better idea of what something I'm designing will look like, I make a mock-up in Tinkercad (don't judge me, I'm shyte at CAD programs...) and print a small model. I can then see if there's anything I've missed. Iterative development before I make a single cut...
Hi, I can relate to that. I usually draw my projects in Fusion before building them. I don’t print a plastic model, but seeing a 3D representation of it allows me make adjustments to the look and fit before committing to wood. With your down Jig, you may want to add bearings with the correct I.D. for the holes. This would provide a more durable surface for the drillbit to run through and thus not damage the jig.
Thanks for sharing this! I just purchased a Hafco ST-254 from Machinery House NZ, which seems to be identical with your model. I'm curious, why did you replace the included rise and fall riving knife? Also, would you be willing to share an editable file on Printables? I would need to split this into two parts for a small print bed (probably using some sort of chamfer, so the front half of the insert pushes down the rear half). And I might also add a cut-out for the riving knife.
What an excellent idea! I hadn't thought of using 3D printing for a zero clearance insert.
Thanks.
I don't do woodworking, but I have a PrusaXL and live in WA which is how I found you. Enjoying the videos anyway - keep it up Darren!
Cheers. I have been contemplating doing a 3D prints beyond the workshop video. For items around the house, car, etc.
I have a large format 3D printer (Creality CR-10 Smart), but I wasn't sure if a 3D printed throat plate would work in the table saw. You've given me the confidence to try. Guess what I'm doing this weekend? 🤣 Thanks for the video and the great idea. Cheers. 👍
Hi Chris, I guess you are making a throat plate. 😁
Great work and presentation. I’ve thought of bandsaw kerf inserts but not table saw. I also knew about the kerf tabs but didn’t think of just putting holes on my wooden insert and adding them. Should probably do that.
Being new to 3D printing I don’t know exactly how much infill for finished items like this need. Test it low and final just go full fill if it’s within reason. Amount of filament and print time that isn’t insane.
Cheers. Infill is something you will get a feel for as you print more projects. I mostly use 10, 20, 25, 60 and 80%. On a rare occasion 5 or 100%.
I printed a hole drilling jig and used 5% infill but set 4 walls thickness, you get some saving in filament but the area around each hole has plenty of walls around and is plenty strong.
What a cool use for 3D printing! I'm thinking of making a few dowelling jigs (just a 5mm thick flat plate with a few cylinders with 9mm holes spaced out) which will have the advantage that I can make them to my specs and print more if I damage any of them. Also I've discovered another use for 3D printing - if I want to get a better idea of what something I'm designing will look like, I make a mock-up in Tinkercad (don't judge me, I'm shyte at CAD programs...) and print a small model. I can then see if there's anything I've missed. Iterative development before I make a single cut...
Hi, I can relate to that. I usually draw my projects in Fusion before building them. I don’t print a plastic model, but seeing a 3D representation of it allows me make adjustments to the look and fit before committing to wood.
With your down Jig, you may want to add bearings with the correct I.D. for the holes. This would provide a more durable surface for the drillbit to run through and thus not damage the jig.
Thanks for sharing this!
I just purchased a Hafco ST-254 from Machinery House NZ, which seems to be identical with your model. I'm curious, why did you replace the included rise and fall riving knife?
Also, would you be willing to share an editable file on Printables? I would need to split this into two parts for a small print bed (probably using some sort of chamfer, so the front half of the insert pushes down the rear half). And I might also add a cut-out for the riving knife.
Any recommendations on table saws? Carbatec don't do theirs anymore
Hi Keith, I don't want to recommend something I haven't used. Saw Stop look good although ridiculously expensive.
@DarrensWorkshop that's it mate, they seem great but charge through the nose for them