Looks good mate, I would've wire wheeled the difficult to reach rusty bits and put some corrosion killer on to future proof it. Cos you know Land Rovers🙂 This week I changed my S2A shocks for Monroe Gas Shocks and done the same I suggested while I had good access. Good on ya putting anti seize on the fixings, that's what I do👌🏻 My D1 200 was lifted with +2" shocks and springs and my mates D1 300 with +2" spacer blocks. 8 months later he bought +2 shocks and springs... so yeah, I don't think much of spacer blocks so I saved like hell to get the springs/shocks. YMMV. Looking at the loadbed forward tilt I thought your Defender 110 was doing a Navara D40 impression and snapping it's chassis😲😁 You've done good mate👍🏻 Will you be colour matching the roof and wheels?.
Thank you!! Yes, I will go back and treat the rust and rust protect the whole underside once the P38 is road worthy and used as my daily. Always good to protect it when you can! Yes, springs are always better but I got these new for £15 and for the things I do with it don't really need the added flex that lift springs need. Mainly wanted to level it out. Haha exactly, it is definitely NOT snapping! I put some new mounts on and haven't had time to adjust them properly so that's why it is leaning 😅😅 the chassis is solid! I have white steel rims with summer tyres, the roof will stay white as well!
@@Td5Adventures Good on ya mate👍🏻 Fair1 on the springs. But body mount adjusting on a Landy is a pain in the fucking arse! Lol. If it's worth investing in, it's worth protecting, applies to both Landies and sweethearts and properties.
Luckily there are only four bed mounts in total which have slotted holes so adjusting the bed to sit flat isn't really hard. But every Landy is slightly different so I'll have to alter the slots in some places to make it fit tighter👌🏼 That's right with investing!
Great DIY video as always :-) Looks so much better. Want to do something similar on my Range Rover classic, basically just dismantle and taking a look if there is a problem because I hear "clunking" from the front axle when I do wheel articulation :-) Or I just accept it because its a over 30 year old car, still have to rebuild the right front footwell :-D
Great video! years ago I made spacers to lift my defender 90 with soft range rover springs to get an ATV type ride with long travel adjustable Rancho shocks. The ride was fantastically soft with the shock damping turned to no1! Recently when lifting my TD5 110 I felt that the progressive wound springs may coil bind and/or the shock compresses fully and get damaged, if by chance my bump stop fails. What do you think?
You should always make sure the bump stops are in good condition. The bump stops are designed so the springs and shocks won't bind. If they do fail there's usually no backup and that's just the way it is unfortunately.
@@Td5Adventures Thanks for your quick response. I assumed it was designed that the shocks/springs don't bottom/coil-bind without Bump Stops, to be 'Fail-Safe'. I agree that bump stops should always be in good condition.
@@captarmour Maybe stock suspension is made that way but I'm not sure and when swapping for aftermarket and lifted suspension you should not ignore the bump stops and might even need different ones to accommodate what you install😊
Nice one. Well done...
Thanks!!
I really enjoyed this one!
Awesome! Thank you for watching!
Looks good mate, I would've wire wheeled the difficult to reach rusty bits and put some corrosion killer on to future proof it. Cos you know Land Rovers🙂
This week I changed my S2A shocks for Monroe Gas Shocks and done the same I suggested while I had good access.
Good on ya putting anti seize on the fixings, that's what I do👌🏻
My D1 200 was lifted with +2" shocks and springs and my mates D1 300 with +2" spacer blocks. 8 months later he bought +2 shocks and springs... so yeah, I don't think much of spacer blocks so I saved like hell to get the springs/shocks.
YMMV.
Looking at the loadbed forward tilt I thought your Defender 110 was doing a Navara D40 impression and snapping it's chassis😲😁
You've done good mate👍🏻
Will you be colour matching the roof and wheels?.
Thank you!!
Yes, I will go back and treat the rust and rust protect the whole underside once the P38 is road worthy and used as my daily.
Always good to protect it when you can!
Yes, springs are always better but I got these new for £15 and for the things I do with it don't really need the added flex that lift springs need. Mainly wanted to level it out.
Haha exactly, it is definitely NOT snapping! I put some new mounts on and haven't had time to adjust them properly so that's why it is leaning 😅😅 the chassis is solid!
I have white steel rims with summer tyres, the roof will stay white as well!
@@Td5Adventures Good on ya mate👍🏻
Fair1 on the springs. But body mount adjusting on a Landy is a pain in the fucking arse! Lol.
If it's worth investing in, it's worth protecting, applies to both Landies and sweethearts and properties.
Luckily there are only four bed mounts in total which have slotted holes so adjusting the bed to sit flat isn't really hard. But every Landy is slightly different so I'll have to alter the slots in some places to make it fit tighter👌🏼
That's right with investing!
6:42min
🤣🤣🤣🤣 I'm laughing my ass off!!!
Sometimes I got a laggy brain 🧠 🤣
Great DIY video as always :-) Looks so much better. Want to do something similar on my Range Rover classic, basically just dismantle and taking a look if there is a problem because I hear "clunking" from the front axle when I do wheel articulation :-) Or I just accept it because its a over 30 year old car, still have to rebuild the right front footwell :-D
Thank you!
You should do that when you have time for it :)
Great video! years ago I made spacers to lift my defender 90 with soft range rover springs to get an ATV type ride with long travel adjustable Rancho shocks. The ride was fantastically soft with the shock damping turned to no1!
Recently when lifting my TD5 110 I felt that the progressive wound springs may coil bind and/or the shock compresses fully and get damaged, if by chance my bump stop fails. What do you think?
You should always make sure the bump stops are in good condition. The bump stops are designed so the springs and shocks won't bind. If they do fail there's usually no backup and that's just the way it is unfortunately.
@@Td5Adventures Thanks for your quick response.
I assumed it was designed that the shocks/springs don't bottom/coil-bind without Bump Stops, to be 'Fail-Safe'.
I agree that bump stops should always be in good condition.
@@captarmour Maybe stock suspension is made that way but I'm not sure and when swapping for aftermarket and lifted suspension you should not ignore the bump stops and might even need different ones to accommodate what you install😊