@@makingmistakeswithgreg Agreed. In my experience, torch is cheaper to get started with compared to a decent Tig welder. Just spend the extra on getting some decently sized gas bottles, since swaps seem to be pretty close in price, regardless of size.
I have seen steel like that before. Indian steel made from old ship plates heated and rolled so all the crap from years at sea are rolled into the plate, I have seen ships cut into strips and turned into spanners and old anchor chain forged into half shafts for cars. I knew a sea captain who at one time had the job of taking old ships and beaching them in India where they were cut up for scrap. Rather than melting them down they used the metal as is with minimum amount of work so plates are just flattened out or rolled into whatever shape and size required.
it's a good "make do" job, typical in municipal work. I've had to do many jobs just to make it last, we had a pump station problem with a temporary fix that took over 20 years to replace, glad I'm retired
The hard part is where do you start and stop lol. Considering how worn out everything is on it I know it’s going to need more repairs. I find myself in the “how far do I fix it” situation often lol.
8:46 is showing classic beach marks of metal fatigue. The radial marks point towards the crack initiation location, which here would have been about one o’clock
bucket shells are often made of ASTM A572 Grade 50 a high strength, low alloy steel. This steel is alloyed with columbium and vanadium. Vanadium helps with maintaining the toughness of the steel. Columbium is a light grey, crystalline, and ductile transition metal now also known as niobium. This grade of steel is desirable as a bucket shell material because it provides excellent strength without weighing quite as much as comparable steels such as A36. It is also readily welded and formed.
Thanks for the heads up, taking the time to write that benefitted both me and viewers of the channel. One of the downsides of the bucket repair is the timeline I had to get it done. It was so old no information in the library was available on it and I had limited ability to get higher strength steel to repair it. The way it broke and numerous other things suggested to me it was higher strength than a36 but it definitely wasn’t super hard. It welded really decent. I am unsure as to how long it will last with the repair, but it’s in such rough shape I know something else will break. I will definitely order some of that steel to have on hand for future repairs 😀.
Nice! Working in a totally different field, it's interesting how some things stay the same. Like looking at something that's a hunk of junk but gets the job done, and figuring out how far to take the "repairs." Code itself might not change, but everything does around it, and maintenance is just as important as with physical equipment. Biggest difference in code is that we can do what's literally called a "blame" and find out who exactly touched a part last, and what shape it was in beforehand. Though even then, we can't magically tell what other things were going on that forced them to make the decisions they did.
Figuring out how far to go with repairs is the biggest challenge I have faced since I took the repair job I have now. It’s a tough situation, don’t repair enough and you get blamed for not doing a “proper job” when something else fails, but repair too much and you’re wasting time and money lol. The solution I found is to do a solid inspection and input notes on what I found. That way proof exists that I found things and that the fault lies with who determined what I should do lol.
Just looked in the shop ... and found it: a 1968 ArcAir Burners Aid Kit for cutting circles with a torch. It includes instructions in the original metal case with the nice crusty disintegrating foam cusioning all the parts. Your a bit far away or I would loan it to you. Consider: If you have to do more big holes where you can't get the part to a mill or lathe, see if they can get you a magnetic drill and annular cutters.
Cutting Edge Engineering showed a neat way of doing this. All you need is a triangular piece of metal with a hole in it, a bolt, nut, and a washer. Order goes Bolt, Washer, through the two tubes of the torch, through the triangle, nut. You put the tip of the triangle in the middle of where you want to cut, and just keep it there while rotating the torch. Like using a compass to draw a circle. Brilliantly simple!
Great job young man. My approach would have been a bit different and hopefully have had as good as result? Absolutely agree on cutting the broken material away back to good. I would have made new ears first and cut the holes with a TCT holesaw on a pillar drill or mag drill. Then welded the bushes on and then installed the pin and tacked the ears on. Then tacked on two braces at the ends of the ears. Then 7018 all the way out. Stand back and look at it and ask myself, would Greg approve my work? 😂 I would be happy with that jib you did young man!
I like your approach. After doing what I did and putting myself in a bind I would have done it different. Your way would have cut some time down no doubt. I had a mag drill but no cutters. I didn’t have a drill bit that big either. The initial cuts on the bucket were good enough 100% I should have welded everything up off the bucket. That’s one of the things that will make a huge difference in welding, avoiding putting yourself in a bind that forces really bad angle welds lol.
@@makingmistakeswithgreg You might look at getting a "Boring Bar Head." It would be perfect for some of this. Would have also let you round out the cylinder eyelet to install a bushing.
If you do some torch cutting videos would you mind covering piercing holes? As I can cut from an edge but gas cutting holes is completely different👍 Thanks Greg
I definitely will, and I will have to practice it a bunch to make sure I have it dialed in lol. The hard part is knowing when the material is hot enough all the way through for the oxygen to work its magic. Heat it too little and it will spit back at the torch because it doesn’t cut all the way through. Heat it too long and the puddle will pop causing molten metal to spray all over. It takes the right balance of heat input and oxygen pressure to get right.
You sound tired/worn out on this one....hope ya get some rest. Looking forward to some more Tig videos, after all i'm a YT certified welder apprentice ;)
Have you ever done a back grind 7018 joint? For crack repairs, it seems to make sense to me. Using 7018 for the root and then back grinding the joint and welding 7018 onto the back of the root. I find that 6010 and 6011 are more likely to crack (in conjunction with your video series). A video on backing strips and maybe even ceramic backing would be pretty cool. Thanks for all the videos
7018 could be used for sure. The weld and back grind method works great for a vast majority of situations a person might find. With pipe it’s impossible, but it’s rare that a person would have an open root with no ability to use a backing bar or back grind on most things.
Lots of great information on your channel! I've been going through a lot of your videos lately. I was wondering if you could do a video on welding with car batteries like for trail repairs?
Seems it is import from a dutch demolition company , so it surely have had a rough life ! What size rod ,type and Amps did you do the stick welding with?
I can’t believe I didn’t mention in the video that info 😮, thanks for asking. Stick rods were 3/32 7018 root at 97amps, and the fill was 1/8th 7018 at 128amps. I tend to run way hot and universally run on the higher side when welding thick steel. A good trick is to set the amperage right at the point you get arc blow while holding a tight arc and back it down 5-10 amps. Running cold to more easily control the puddle becomes bad for penetration. Edit: for tig I ran the root at 130 or so, and the fill/cap at 150-160a. 1/16th and 3/32 filler.
Guessing you used the Rogue 200i PRO? They are good machines, got one about a year ago and it is great for some of the stuff that can't come in to the shop.
Yep, rogue 200. I have built a ton of stuff with it. It’s pretty unbelievable how functional it is. Super compact and useful. I actually stick weld with it over the xmt350 I have because it’s a better stick welder lol.
Glad to hear that you learned a bunch. I got it done in a single shift, so approximately 8 hours. That included atleast 40 min of breaks and a couple other small jobs I had to do, so probably 6.5 hours or so. Had I used dual shield wire (my work doesn’t have any) I probably could have knocked a fair amount of time off. Since I don’t get paid by pieces, getting it done faster isn’t much of a benefit.
Hey, I hope you are doing well. I have much enjoyed your videos. I came from your welding with generator video with a pressing question, So could you help me out. I want to know if a King Canada running continous without an inverter at 9000W would be sufficient or avoid damaging a small welding machine. See I am a student whos only got limited places to practice. Thx for your time
So a 9k running watt generator can handle a minimum of 180a mig machine. A simple rule of thumb is take .022 multiplied by whatever the running watt of the generator is. That will give you the absolute bare minimum welder you can run. This is assuming a transformer machine, no power factor correction. So a 6,500 running watt generator would be 135a. Keep in mind this is 240v welders. If you buy a 120v welder expect them to trip breakers on most generators, because generator breakers trip far sooner than a house hold 20a. Most 120v welders draw more than 28a.
They provide the welders, torches, consumables, etc. I have my own (limited set) of tools. I am pretty lucky in the fact I might have 1300$ in my whole tool setup (with cart). The heavy equipment mechanics have more than that just in one side cabinet for the tool box lol.
I have not owned one, but it’s on the list to buy. For oxy fuel welding they are definitely a “artists tool” and give control that is hard to find elsewhere.
@@makingmistakeswithgreg set up correctly you can cut and write your name cutting in thick steel. And I have welded cast iron with thier square cast iron rods with thier flux. It grinds easy. Also welded aluminum with thier flux on thin metal. I'm impressed with the pinpoint cutting. Especially on control arm bolts and truck bed bolts.
Grinding it or just taping on it to let it ring didn’t suggest anything special, but I am still not convinced it was plain mild steel. It welded fine but time will tell how well it holds up. I have ran into a ton of repairs that someone welded with stainless or hardface wire. One of the downsides is following after someone who doesn’t care is you find all sorts of stuff that doesn’t make sense. I did another bucket repair on a similar bucket today and someone literally welded a bunch of stuff with hardface (It arc gouged like trash and all of the welds were cracked). Fun times lol.
@makingmistakeswithgreg I should tell you. I retired from field welding after 45 years. Those cylinder ends can be repaired, but they need to be done at a machine shop. The chances are they aren't the original ones.
The bucket itself must be atleast 8-9k now. The loader it’s attached to is upwards of 170k 💀. My guess is at some point I will have to tig weld the bores on the rams to tighten them up. The municipality is keeping things longer than ever in an effort to conserve funds.
@@makingmistakeswithgreg at these prices I can understand why they want to fix it rather than replace it. Even a couple of years could save them tens of thousands. I had a couple of million in machinery in my company. We were a commercial film lab and that was processing equipment. Replacing one of these sucked the budget out of shape. I used to maintain most of it myself. Hanging onto something a year or more extra was a big help.
Nice repair, Greg. Thanks for sharing!
I love the safety shoes! 🙂
I look forward to some torch videos
I will do that after the tig videos for sure. Torch cutting and welding is a pretty solid skill to have 😀
@@makingmistakeswithgreg Agreed. In my experience, torch is cheaper to get started with compared to a decent Tig welder. Just spend the extra on getting some decently sized gas bottles, since swaps seem to be pretty close in price, regardless of size.
I have seen steel like that before. Indian steel made from old ship plates heated and rolled so all the crap from years at sea are rolled into the plate, I have seen ships cut into strips and turned into spanners and old anchor chain forged into half shafts for cars. I knew a sea captain who at one time had the job of taking old ships and beaching them in India where they were cut up for scrap. Rather than melting them down they used the metal as is with minimum amount of work so plates are just flattened out or rolled into whatever shape and size required.
Thanks for sharing. Enjoy your insights.
it's a good "make do" job, typical in municipal work. I've had to do many jobs just to make it last, we had a pump station problem with a temporary fix that took over 20 years to replace, glad I'm retired
The hard part is where do you start and stop lol. Considering how worn out everything is on it I know it’s going to need more repairs. I find myself in the “how far do I fix it” situation often lol.
8:46 is showing classic beach marks of metal fatigue. The radial marks point towards the crack initiation location, which here would have been about one o’clock
bucket shells are often made of ASTM A572 Grade 50 a high strength, low alloy steel. This steel is alloyed with columbium and vanadium. Vanadium helps with maintaining the toughness of the steel. Columbium is a light grey, crystalline, and ductile transition metal now also known as niobium.
This grade of steel is desirable as a bucket shell material because it provides excellent strength without weighing quite as much as comparable steels such as A36. It is also readily welded and formed.
Thanks for the heads up, taking the time to write that benefitted both me and viewers of the channel. One of the downsides of the bucket repair is the timeline I had to get it done. It was so old no information in the library was available on it and I had limited ability to get higher strength steel to repair it. The way it broke and numerous other things suggested to me it was higher strength than a36 but it definitely wasn’t super hard. It welded really decent. I am unsure as to how long it will last with the repair, but it’s in such rough shape I know something else will break. I will definitely order some of that steel to have on hand for future repairs 😀.
Nice work as always.
Nice! Working in a totally different field, it's interesting how some things stay the same. Like looking at something that's a hunk of junk but gets the job done, and figuring out how far to take the "repairs." Code itself might not change, but everything does around it, and maintenance is just as important as with physical equipment.
Biggest difference in code is that we can do what's literally called a "blame" and find out who exactly touched a part last, and what shape it was in beforehand. Though even then, we can't magically tell what other things were going on that forced them to make the decisions they did.
Figuring out how far to go with repairs is the biggest challenge I have faced since I took the repair job I have now. It’s a tough situation, don’t repair enough and you get blamed for not doing a “proper job” when something else fails, but repair too much and you’re wasting time and money lol. The solution I found is to do a solid inspection and input notes on what I found. That way proof exists that I found things and that the fault lies with who determined what I should do lol.
Just looked in the shop ... and found it: a 1968 ArcAir Burners Aid Kit for cutting circles with a torch. It includes instructions in the original metal case with the nice crusty disintegrating foam cusioning all the parts. Your a bit far away or I would loan it to you.
Consider: If you have to do more big holes where you can't get the part to a mill or lathe, see if they can get you a magnetic drill and annular cutters.
I do have a mag drill but no cutters. Next time I talk with the shop boss I will have them order some 😀
Cutting Edge Engineering showed a neat way of doing this. All you need is a triangular piece of metal with a hole in it, a bolt, nut, and a washer. Order goes Bolt, Washer, through the two tubes of the torch, through the triangle, nut. You put the tip of the triangle in the middle of where you want to cut, and just keep it there while rotating the torch. Like using a compass to draw a circle. Brilliantly simple!
Cool!
Came out great!
Nice work.
Great job young man. My approach would have been a bit different and hopefully have had as good as result? Absolutely agree on cutting the broken material away back to good.
I would have made new ears first and cut the holes with a TCT holesaw on a pillar drill or mag drill.
Then welded the bushes on and then installed the pin and tacked the ears on. Then tacked on two braces at the ends of the ears. Then 7018 all the way out. Stand back and look at it and ask myself, would Greg approve my work? 😂 I would be happy with that jib you did young man!
I like your approach. After doing what I did and putting myself in a bind I would have done it different. Your way would have cut some time down no doubt. I had a mag drill but no cutters. I didn’t have a drill bit that big either. The initial cuts on the bucket were good enough 100% I should have welded everything up off the bucket. That’s one of the things that will make a huge difference in welding, avoiding putting yourself in a bind that forces really bad angle welds lol.
@@makingmistakeswithgreg You might look at getting a "Boring Bar Head." It would be perfect for some of this. Would have also let you round out the cylinder eyelet to install a bushing.
If you do some torch cutting videos would you mind covering piercing holes? As I can cut from an edge but gas cutting holes is completely different👍
Thanks Greg
I definitely will, and I will have to practice it a bunch to make sure I have it dialed in lol. The hard part is knowing when the material is hot enough all the way through for the oxygen to work its magic. Heat it too little and it will spit back at the torch because it doesn’t cut all the way through. Heat it too long and the puddle will pop causing molten metal to spray all over. It takes the right balance of heat input and oxygen pressure to get right.
You sound tired/worn out on this one....hope ya get some rest. Looking forward to some more Tig videos, after all i'm a YT certified welder apprentice ;)
I had a stomach bug for 2-3 days and it kicked my butt, great ear for it 😅. Glad to hear you’re a youtube certified welder 😀👍.
Have you ever done a back grind 7018 joint? For crack repairs, it seems to make sense to me. Using 7018 for the root and then back grinding the joint and welding 7018 onto the back of the root. I find that 6010 and 6011 are more likely to crack (in conjunction with your video series). A video on backing strips and maybe even ceramic backing would be pretty cool. Thanks for all the videos
7018 could be used for sure. The weld and back grind method works great for a vast majority of situations a person might find. With pipe it’s impossible, but it’s rare that a person would have an open root with no ability to use a backing bar or back grind on most things.
Nice job there young man, weld done. My Tig skills are not that good so I would have gone down the old scholl route of 7018 stick welding.
7018 would have handled it for sure.
Lots of great information on your channel! I've been going through a lot of your videos lately. I was wondering if you could do a video on welding with car batteries like for trail repairs?
Great idea. I have one battery handy, I will have to source a second battery since you need 24v for it to work. I will see what I can do lol.
@@makingmistakeswithgreg That would be great. Thanks!
quick mount bucket ears made from carbon Grade 50 steel
Seems it is import from a dutch demolition company , so it surely have had a rough life ! What size rod ,type and Amps did you do the stick welding with?
I can’t believe I didn’t mention in the video that info 😮, thanks for asking. Stick rods were 3/32 7018 root at 97amps, and the fill was 1/8th 7018 at 128amps. I tend to run way hot and universally run on the higher side when welding thick steel. A good trick is to set the amperage right at the point you get arc blow while holding a tight arc and back it down 5-10 amps. Running cold to more easily control the puddle becomes bad for penetration.
Edit: for tig I ran the root at 130 or so, and the fill/cap at 150-160a. 1/16th and 3/32 filler.
Guessing you used the Rogue 200i PRO? They are good machines, got one about a year ago and it is great for some of the stuff that can't come in to the shop.
Yep, rogue 200. I have built a ton of stuff with it. It’s pretty unbelievable how functional it is. Super compact and useful. I actually stick weld with it over the xmt350 I have because it’s a better stick welder lol.
Great job , I learned a lot.
Btw how long did it take you to do the job?
Glad to hear that you learned a bunch. I got it done in a single shift, so approximately 8 hours. That included atleast 40 min of breaks and a couple other small jobs I had to do, so probably 6.5 hours or so. Had I used dual shield wire (my work doesn’t have any) I probably could have knocked a fair amount of time off. Since I don’t get paid by pieces, getting it done faster isn’t much of a benefit.
Hey, I hope you are doing well. I have much enjoyed your videos. I came from your welding with generator video with a pressing question, So could you help me out. I want to know if a King Canada running continous without an inverter at 9000W would be sufficient or avoid damaging a small welding machine. See I am a student whos only got limited places to practice. Thx for your time
So a 9k running watt generator can handle a minimum of 180a mig machine. A simple rule of thumb is take .022 multiplied by whatever the running watt of the generator is. That will give you the absolute bare minimum welder you can run. This is assuming a transformer machine, no power factor correction. So a 6,500 running watt generator would be 135a.
Keep in mind this is 240v welders. If you buy a 120v welder expect them to trip breakers on most generators, because generator breakers trip far sooner than a house hold 20a. Most 120v welders draw more than 28a.
Other great video Greg!!
Do you use your own tools on the job or they provide tools and welders??
They provide the welders, torches, consumables, etc. I have my own (limited set) of tools. I am pretty lucky in the fact I might have 1300$ in my whole tool setup (with cart). The heavy equipment mechanics have more than that just in one side cabinet for the tool box lol.
Have you used a Corbra or a Hemrod torch? I've had good results
I have not owned one, but it’s on the list to buy. For oxy fuel welding they are definitely a “artists tool” and give control that is hard to find elsewhere.
@@makingmistakeswithgreg set up correctly you can cut and write your name cutting in thick steel. And I have welded cast iron with thier square cast iron rods with thier flux. It grinds easy. Also welded aluminum with thier flux on thin metal. I'm impressed with the pinpoint cutting. Especially on control arm bolts and truck bed bolts.
If it was AR plate of any flavor. You would have known when grinding it.
Grinding it or just taping on it to let it ring didn’t suggest anything special, but I am still not convinced it was plain mild steel. It welded fine but time will tell how well it holds up. I have ran into a ton of repairs that someone welded with stainless or hardface wire. One of the downsides is following after someone who doesn’t care is you find all sorts of stuff that doesn’t make sense. I did another bucket repair on a similar bucket today and someone literally welded a bunch of stuff with hardface (It arc gouged like trash and all of the welds were cracked). Fun times lol.
@makingmistakeswithgreg I should tell you. I retired from field welding after 45 years. Those cylinder ends can be repaired, but they need to be done at a machine shop. The chances are they aren't the original ones.
What does a machine like this cost?
The bucket itself must be atleast 8-9k now. The loader it’s attached to is upwards of 170k 💀. My guess is at some point I will have to tig weld the bores on the rams to tighten them up. The municipality is keeping things longer than ever in an effort to conserve funds.
@@makingmistakeswithgreg at these prices I can understand why they want to fix it rather than replace it. Even a couple of years could save them tens of thousands. I had a couple of million in machinery in my company. We were a commercial film lab and that was processing equipment. Replacing one of these sucked the budget out of shape. I used to maintain most of it myself. Hanging onto something a year or more extra was a big help.
@@melgross I watch Cutting Edge Engineering videos, and he often gives prices for new equipment. Sooo much cheaper to have a shop do it.
They let you take vacation?
I get treated well where I am at. I generally don’t take days off but I do have a bunch of vacation.
Might be ductile
Iron?