Well done for sure. Threading is the most fun you can have on the lathe. Mrpete222 has helped a lot of us with learning machine work. Keep on keeping on.
Rather than using the compound, you could also turn between centers and rest your lathe dog on the jaw, then index it to the next jaw, and cut again, etc. This will only work if your multi-lead is divisible by the number of jaws though (and your jaws are precision ground and equally spaced). In your case since you have a 3-jaw and a triple lead, you can cut each lead on each of the jaws (if you have a 4-jaw you can cut double and quadruple leads, or if you have a 6-jaw you could cut 1,2,3,or 6 leads, can you imagine a 6 start thread?). Just an alternative method, that's the best thing about the trade, there's about a million and one ways to do the same thing, haha.
I'm really glad you posted this as a comment, after sharing this video with some (real) machinists, they gave me the exact same feedback. Certainly another great solution, and I agree with you 100%, it's so awesome how machining (and making stuff in general) leads to so many different ways of solving the same problem!! Thank you for watching and contributing!
I woulda used a 3 jaw to do the triple lead thread turning between centers indexing each lead to a diff jaw with the dog. For 2 or 4 leads...use a 4 jaw chuck and pick between 2 and 4....Your method works too and thanks for sharing it 😊 ~ Richard PS: I always use #2 on my thread dial when engaging ;)
If you run your machine in reverse, and had your tool post on the other side you can start your threading in the relief area and auto feed away from the spindle towards your tailstock.... no headcrashing. Also it saves on you as it allows you plenty of time to stop the auto feed at any point once you cleared the part. If the part calls for a relief, which most do, I always thread in reverse as I'm not on edge trying to stop the auto feed before it crashes into the part or the spindle. It's almost essential for turning inside threads as it comes so close to the spindle. Save yourself the trouble and run the spindle and auto feed in reverse. You of course are threading on the opposite side of the part. Good luck bud!
...I have cut some two start threads using just the threading dial...odd lead like 7 gives you a 14 pitch...cut one lead on the numbered lines...the other lead on the un-numbered lines...you can alternate between leads each pass and get to full depth pretty quickly...
If i may, have you ever tried the old school trick of using the 50/50 mix of kerosene and cutting oil for aluminum? If not you must, the threads will look flawless.
Very interesting, great video :) for the fusion360 stuff you can use the 'press/pull' tool to continue ends of the thread and the sweep off the part. if you use the 'press/pull' tool and select the left over triangle then it should be possible to move that face off the part therefor completing the thread and cutting that last little bit.
I have a mini lathe and have never been able to cut threads and i like to fly racing loans and 2 and 3 mm are a must and I would love to know which plastic gears to use to cut 2 and 3 mm threads in doing add-ons to my racing quads.. also I bought a 5 inch 4 tooth Chuck and it come with a four inch 3 tooth and I cannot find a mounting plate for it would love to have a reply from you to maybe help me out with that.. thanks
Ricard Rinaldo basically makes a fine pitch thread act like a course pitch thread so you can screw it on faster. An example would be instead of a 24 pitch thread that takes 24 revolutions per inch to screw on you get essentially the same as that but 1/3 the revolutions so instead of screwing on at 24 revs/inch it will take 8 revs/inch. Problem with course thread is thread depth and torque , benefit is speed. Problem with fine thread is speed, benefit is shallower cut with more torque making it a stronger bond with less turning torque to achieve it.
Well, stupid laws are never great, but at least you have more guanciale than we do here in the US :D Thanks for watching from all the way on the other half of the world!
Sir please explain the thread dividings in three start thread please explain dividing the three start thread my English language is week explain the compound slides practical
You can download the program (I think it's in a "trial" version when you download it) then once downloaded, you can register it from within the program as a hobbyist user. I'm not an expert, and there are a ton of great helpful TH-cam videos from Autodesk and a number of other creators. Thanks for the sub, glad to hear about more old south bends out there making stuff :)
Please tell me why was tool moved to 42000 of an inch. I am unable to understand the calculation. Plz share some more info on calculation part with example
I tried to get Fusion 360 for hobbyist but see no way to do it...for professionals or students and if you select student for the free version they ask for your institution. So what is the trick?
Well done for sure. Threading is the most fun you can have on the lathe. Mrpete222 has helped a lot of us with learning machine work. Keep on keeping on.
Thank you, and I agree on all counts! Thanks for stopping by, Harold!
Rather than using the compound, you could also turn between centers and rest your lathe dog on the jaw, then index it to the next jaw, and cut again, etc. This will only work if your multi-lead is divisible by the number of jaws though (and your jaws are precision ground and equally spaced). In your case since you have a 3-jaw and a triple lead, you can cut each lead on each of the jaws (if you have a 4-jaw you can cut double and quadruple leads, or if you have a 6-jaw you could cut 1,2,3,or 6 leads, can you imagine a 6 start thread?). Just an alternative method, that's the best thing about the trade, there's about a million and one ways to do the same thing, haha.
I'm really glad you posted this as a comment, after sharing this video with some (real) machinists, they gave me the exact same feedback. Certainly another great solution, and I agree with you 100%, it's so awesome how machining (and making stuff in general) leads to so many different ways of solving the same problem!! Thank you for watching and contributing!
Practical Renaissance
ever try upside down and backwards?
I woulda used a 3 jaw to do the triple lead thread turning between centers indexing each lead to a diff jaw with the dog. For 2 or 4 leads...use a 4 jaw chuck and pick between 2 and 4....Your method works too and thanks for sharing it 😊 ~ Richard
PS: I always use #2 on my thread dial when engaging ;)
Never heard of a thread like this. Very interesting and cool. Always enjoy your videos.
Glad I could show you something, thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching!
If you run your machine in reverse, and had your tool post on the other side you can start your threading in the relief area and auto feed away from the spindle towards your tailstock.... no headcrashing. Also it saves on you as it allows you plenty of time to stop the auto feed at any point once you cleared the part. If the part calls for a relief, which most do, I always thread in reverse as I'm not on edge trying to stop the auto feed before it crashes into the part or the spindle. It's almost essential for turning inside threads as it comes so close to the spindle. Save yourself the trouble and run the spindle and auto feed in reverse. You of course are threading on the opposite side of the part. Good luck bud!
Very well done, Thank you for sharing this. It is quite helpful for those of us learning the art of threading.
Super cool and great video but other than more thread surface for grip why would a triple or multi thread be used?
For speed. 3D printers and robots use them a lot.
I just started learning Fusion 360 last night. I will be using on the CNC Router to mill aluminum and wood.
That's great to hear! I'm a big fan, it's such a useful tool and pretty easy to get the hang of.
...I have cut some two start threads using just the threading dial...odd lead like 7 gives you a 14 pitch...cut one lead on the numbered lines...the other lead on the un-numbered lines...you can alternate between leads each pass and get to full depth pretty quickly...
Very interesting stuff my friend! Always nice to see another video from you :)
Glad you enjoyed it, and thanks!
Nice job , came out great.
+Randy Richard Thanks Randy!
God bless the metric system for threading 😂
If i may, have you ever tried the old school trick of using the 50/50 mix of kerosene and cutting oil for aluminum? If not you must, the threads will look flawless.
I haven't ever heard of that, I will have to look into it thanks!
Very interesting, great video :)
for the fusion360 stuff you can use the 'press/pull' tool to continue ends of the thread and the sweep off the part. if you use the 'press/pull' tool and select the left over triangle then it should be possible to move that face off the part therefor completing the thread and cutting that last little bit.
Thanks for the tip, that makes perfect sense! I'm obviously still getting the hang of Fusion 360, haha. Thanks for watching!
Are different start threads compatible? In other words, can I joint a single thread screw with a 2, 3 or any different than 1 start thread nut?
Nicely done.
Thanks!
I have a mini lathe and have never been able to cut threads and i like to fly racing loans and 2 and 3 mm are a must and I would love to know which plastic gears to use to cut 2 and 3 mm threads in doing add-ons to my racing quads.. also I bought a 5 inch 4 tooth Chuck and it come with a four inch 3 tooth and I cannot find a mounting plate for it would love to have a reply from you to maybe help me out with that.. thanks
Great stuff, like seeing things done well. Thanks
VERY interesting!!
As is if i have already mastered single lead threading ...i now watch videos about triple lead threads .
very nice but what is the purpose of multiple lead threads?
Ricard Rinaldo basically makes a fine pitch thread act like a course pitch thread so you can screw it on faster. An example would be instead of a 24 pitch thread that takes 24 revolutions per inch to screw on you get essentially the same as that but 1/3 the revolutions so instead of screwing on at 24 revs/inch it will take 8 revs/inch.
Problem with course thread is thread depth and torque , benefit is speed.
Problem with fine thread is speed, benefit is shallower cut with more torque making it a stronger bond with less turning torque to achieve it.
Great 👍
Hey PR, what do you think of a double lead ACME thread for a QD suppesor mount? On and off twice as fast.
Something along those lines is an idea I've been considering for a while, would love to implement it in the future!
What is this 3d cad program you are using. Im just starting to learn about using cad and its very exciting.
Autodesk Fusion 360, it's free for hobbyists and there are a lot of free resources online for learning it!
So if you didn't want to do triple lead threads on the part that screws onto that, you'd have to do a single thread at 8 TPI?
Actually, never mind, I didn't think that through.
+Practical Renaissance do you think this would be useful for a suppressor brake mount? it would help screw on the suppressor quicker
It is very much a consideration I'm looking at for when my next form 1 stamp arrives!!
Practical Renaissance that's fantastic! If only we didn't have stupidnlaws here in italy...
Well, stupid laws are never great, but at least you have more guanciale than we do here in the US :D Thanks for watching from all the way on the other half of the world!
Practical Renaissance i'd gladly exchange some of it for some better laws
Sir please explain the thread dividings in three start thread please explain dividing the three start thread my English language is week explain the compound slides practical
That actually looks like fusion put a blunt start on the part like a triple lead would typically have.
How'd you get fusion 360 for Free? Subbed! Have the same lathe you restored
You can download the program (I think it's in a "trial" version when you download it) then once downloaded, you can register it from within the program as a hobbyist user. I'm not an expert, and there are a ton of great helpful TH-cam videos from Autodesk and a number of other creators. Thanks for the sub, glad to hear about more old south bends out there making stuff :)
subd! found you thru makers hustle:)
Maker's Hustle is an A+ fantastic podcast :)
Are you making something you need or just playing with a machine
why not just cut 24 threads per inch?
Did I catch a Wayne's World reference with that "zang?"
haha YES!
Please tell me why was tool moved to 42000 of an inch. I am unable to understand the calculation. Plz share some more info on calculation part with example
Millimeter multi thread fermulaa please send me
I tried to get Fusion 360 for hobbyist but see no way to do it...for professionals or students and if you select student for the free version they ask for your institution. So what is the trick?
You can sign up as "Start-up or Enthusiast" for free. that should be the right option for a hobbyist.
And how do you know how to start at the same spot to cut the threads each time
this is multi helice
2 people hate knowledge, or so it seems
actually they're 4 xD aaaah people are weird