Creating the calculator in the spreadsheet was absolutely brilliant. In my humble opinion, the perfect tool for that job. Excellent tutorial, please keep up the great work.
Nice! Some (maybe) helpful hints: 1). I apply the clearance offsets to a single coil prior to 4-way rotation. I also apply a small fillet (0.1mm). It seems to compute slightly faster this way. 2). I create a parameter to capture lead/8 * tan(trapezoid_angle). 3). I use the shell command (0.2mm outside-edges) to create a cutout-body of the entire lead-screw. I save both the main lead screw and the cutout-body in a single component. Then, I can use the combine-cut tool to create a negative.
This is an awesome video and the first one to help me figure out that my mystery 500mm long leadscrews I was given are TR10x8 2mm pitch, 4 start, 8mm lead. So no trying to find printable nuts on thingiverse and using trial and error method of determining what size nuts I need for them. And a bonus, I can design my own. Pretty cool, thanks! 👍
Excellent! Useful for making components that wear out easily when operating swing gates. Engines that operate such gates sometimes have a six-start screw and the part driven by it is made of plastic. When it wears out it is very difficult to find the spare part and most of the time I have to change the engine completely. Obviously much more expensive.
Great Tutorial. I needed a long lead screw with nothing one either end but a taper so I printed it flat and pressed into the bed a few millimeters. It prints, then, without any support but has a slight D shape to it but also worked perfectly inside the nut : )
Perfect, I don't speak English, but it's relatively easy to follow you, even if the machine translation isn't great. In any case that answers my problem, to make a "flywheel" (Sorry weird translation) at the top of my ender3 to go up or down the Z axis, there are plenty of them on thingivers, but doing it yourself is more rewarding. Thank you
Project (include the 3d geometry, in sketch mode is it find) followed by a sketch on plane along path, and sweep for the cut - can be a good option to make custom profiles that really is spot on for our printers. It depends on what layer height whats best distance between out/in thread, for me 0.12 > 0.18-0.2mm between both diagonal and horizontal. 0.2 > 0.22-0.24
Can you help me out to find the Correct settings for a tr8x2x4 trapezoidal thread when creating the first coil? 2 is the pitch (1mm in the coil value ) but what is the 4 in my Case?
thanks, this is a really easy way to make TR threads in particular... much easier than what I was doing before! Is the thread dimension calculator you used with the trapezoidal thread available anywhere?
Do you have any suggestions about how to select the Press Pull offset for the cylinderical and screw surfaces? For example, in the last inner thread demo you mentioned that the part was a little bit tight: how to figure out which offset you need to increase?
Offset value may depend from printer-to-printer. This is something you should experiment for your 3D printer. Those values I used are good to start with.
@@MyTechFun Does Fusion 360 support defining some kind of custom property for the whole scene that could be used for all the offsets that would need to be adjusted for each printer? So that the receiver of the file could adjust just one "tolerance" value that would match his or her printer accuracy.
Threads can be such awkward things to model but you have simplified it no end. I may be missing something but why don't you incorporate your thread tolerance for 3d print when generating the thread initially? It would save having to do any surface pushing later.
I have a question and I am not sure how to phrase it. But here goes: Lets say I am designing a coffee cup with a lid. Being a left hander, I would prefer that the lids spout (hole...whatever) lines up for me. Most coffee cups I have they line up for a Right hander. Is this something that a 2 start thread would solve? Or would both parts, the cup and the lid have to be designed with 2 starts? Or maybe there is a formula for determining where the mating threads line up? Thanks, very interesting video.
Great very accurate !!! I just have a problem ... How do you make a T8 pitch 2 but lead 4 instead? You have made a T8 pitch 2 and Lead 8 which is the standard for almost all 3D printers. I put two T8 pitch 2 lead 4 bars on my ender, or increased the accuracy on the Z axis. I just can't find anyone doing a fusion 360 tutorial ...
this was very useful! thanks, had to print one of those for my printer and it worked really well. BTW i'll leave this video here th-cam.com/video/NDz1b6gsJr4/w-d-xo.html the quality isn't the best but since i watched i was able to make tapered bolts with a really nice finish
Turns out fusion is a pile of junk if you want to sweep custom shapes around a helix. This turns out to be the only way of creating them . I will thumbs up this vid. My disappointment is with fusion as I assumed it was a simple operation as old cad programs like pro desktop can do it.
@@bearleemadeit4718 I wanted a far more custom thread than this but it is fusions limits not this guys explanation. Cheers for replying as I could update my ignorant comment.
Great content/tips! But, man, please, do us and yourself a favour and check correct pronunciation of the words you use most (thread, height). Otherwise fluent and clear pronunciation, but the few wrong words are repeated much too often and spoil the otherwise great content! Hope you take the critic as a chance and not as offence! Keep up the good work!
![[TH] VCT Masters Shanghai Swiss Stage DAY 5 // FPX vs TH | FUT vs LEV](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/r61uDZTmu44/mqdefault.jpg)
Creating the calculator in the spreadsheet was absolutely brilliant. In my humble opinion, the perfect tool for that job. Excellent tutorial, please keep up the great work.
Instead of copy you can just use the make circular pattern to make all 4 at the same time
Yes, I forgot about that. Thanks
Nice! Some (maybe) helpful hints: 1). I apply the clearance offsets to a single coil prior to 4-way rotation. I also apply a small fillet (0.1mm). It seems to compute slightly faster this way. 2). I create a parameter to capture lead/8 * tan(trapezoid_angle). 3). I use the shell command (0.2mm outside-edges) to create a cutout-body of the entire lead-screw. I save both the main lead screw and the cutout-body in a single component. Then, I can use the combine-cut tool to create a negative.
This is an awesome video and the first one to help me figure out that my mystery 500mm long leadscrews I was given are TR10x8 2mm pitch, 4 start, 8mm lead. So no trying to find printable nuts on thingiverse and using trial and error method of determining what size nuts I need for them. And a bonus, I can design my own. Pretty cool, thanks! 👍
Great tutorial! You showed us several great options and I really appreciate how clearly and thoroughly you covered everything.
Great tutorial! This was exactly what I was looking for to create a custom thread for larger threaded inserts. Thanks so much!
Brilliant new sub, I've been trying and failing for weeks, just made it work!!
Excellent,thank you so much,it is useful.
Excellent!
Useful for making components that wear out easily when operating swing gates.
Engines that operate such gates sometimes have a six-start screw and the part driven by it is made of plastic. When it wears out it is very difficult to find the spare part and most of the time I have to change the engine completely. Obviously much more expensive.
Very nicely done and informative. Thanks!
Great Tutorial. I needed a long lead screw with nothing one either end but a taper so I printed it flat and pressed into the bed a few millimeters. It prints, then, without any support but has a slight D shape to it but also worked perfectly inside the nut : )
Very useful video, needed this alot for 3D printing custom bolts
Thank you for all your awesome content! I really appreciate it.
Thank you. The first tutorial that really helped me to work with custom threads.
Perfect, I don't speak English, but it's relatively easy to follow you, even if the machine translation isn't great.
In any case that answers my problem, to make a "flywheel" (Sorry weird translation) at the top of my ender3 to go up or down the Z axis, there are plenty of them on thingivers, but doing it yourself is more rewarding. Thank you
Project (include the 3d geometry, in sketch mode is it find) followed by a sketch on plane along path, and sweep for the cut - can be a good option to make custom profiles that really is spot on for our printers.
It depends on what layer height whats best distance between out/in thread, for me
0.12 > 0.18-0.2mm between both diagonal and horizontal.
0.2 > 0.22-0.24
Thanks for another great video pal, this one helped me out bigtime
Thank you very much for this video! Great tutorial (y)
Thank you. Very helpful.
What did the T8 design change when you wanted to make a T10 nut?, please explain
Love your videos
Thanks a lot for your help buddy !!
Thanks for your video, it is very usefull
Really helpful thanks
Great tutorial!
My man. You really are the MVP
FANTASTIC!
Very useful guide
Thank you!
Awesome, thank you.
Great job!!!
Nice one!
Thank you very much. very helpful in many ways.. do you have a spreadsheet in standard threads as well?
Can you help me out to find the Correct settings for a tr8x2x4 trapezoidal thread when creating the first coil? 2 is the pitch (1mm in the coil value ) but what is the 4 in my Case?
Thanks!
Thank you Mario, I am happy that you liked the video :-) Thx.
I am planning to use T8 8mm 4 start screw as a worm gear and I need to create worm wheels. Where can I get dimensions of T8 screw? Thank you.
thanks, this is a really easy way to make TR threads in particular... much easier than what I was doing before! Is the thread dimension calculator you used with the trapezoidal thread available anywhere?
www.mytechfun.com/video/102 bottom of the page
@@MyTechFun thanks bud
Do you have any suggestions about how to select the Press Pull offset for the cylinderical and screw surfaces? For example, in the last inner thread demo you mentioned that the part was a little bit tight: how to figure out which offset you need to increase?
Offset value may depend from printer-to-printer. This is something you should experiment for your 3D printer. Those values I used are good to start with.
@@MyTechFun Does Fusion 360 support defining some kind of custom property for the whole scene that could be used for all the offsets that would need to be adjusted for each printer? So that the receiver of the file could adjust just one "tolerance" value that would match his or her printer accuracy.
@@MikkoRantalainen I don't know about that kind of function.
Instead of Press/Pull could you use Modify>Offset Face?
Threads can be such awkward things to model but you have simplified it no end. I may be missing something but why don't you incorporate your thread tolerance for 3d print when generating the thread initially? It would save having to do any surface pushing later.
I have a question and I am not sure how to phrase it. But here goes: Lets say I am designing a coffee cup with a lid. Being a left hander, I would prefer that the lids spout (hole...whatever) lines up for me. Most coffee cups I have they line up for a Right hander. Is this something that a 2 start thread would solve? Or would both parts, the cup and the lid have to be designed with 2 starts?
Or maybe there is a formula for determining where the mating threads line up? Thanks, very interesting video.
Great very accurate !!!
I just have a problem ...
How do you make a T8 pitch 2 but lead 4 instead?
You have made a T8 pitch 2 and Lead 8 which is the standard for almost all 3D printers.
I put two T8 pitch 2 lead 4 bars on my ender, or increased the accuracy on the Z axis.
I just can't find anyone doing a fusion 360 tutorial ...
No problem. Ask me if you don´t have the solution
Takk!
At 22:14 you copied the feature and rotated it. Is there any reason you didn't just do it as a pattern?
Is your name Daniel Back?
this was very useful! thanks, had to print one of those for my printer and it worked really well. BTW i'll leave this video here th-cam.com/video/NDz1b6gsJr4/w-d-xo.html the quality isn't the best but since i watched i was able to make tapered bolts with a really nice finish
Bár én értem, de sokan élveznék-használnák magyar nyelven is!
Eh, egy nyelvet is alig győzöm csinálni..
Turns out fusion is a pile of junk if you want to sweep custom shapes around a helix.
This turns out to be the only way of creating them .
I will thumbs up this vid. My disappointment is with fusion as I assumed it was a simple operation as old cad programs like pro desktop can do it.
I'd be happy to help you out if you like.
@@bearleemadeit4718 I wanted a far more custom thread than this but it is fusions limits not this guys explanation. Cheers for replying as I could update my ignorant comment.
Please check the pronunciation of thread online ;-)
I got it, thanks
@@MyTechFun Awesome
Great content/tips! But, man, please, do us and yourself a favour and check correct pronunciation of the words you use most (thread, height). Otherwise fluent and clear pronunciation, but the few wrong words are repeated much too often and spoil the otherwise great content! Hope you take the critic as a chance and not as offence! Keep up the good work!
Noted! I already got the warning in previous comments. Lesson learned, sorry about that.
@@MyTechFun Thank you. Don't worry, I'm sure a lot of people can understand very well what you talk about in your tutorial :-)
Personally I don't care because english is not my native language 😛
U B U and talk as you do. It makes your content unique. Thank you for the video.