Nice update and great to see more of the layout in context. My thoughts on the extension would be to leave it for now. There are a lot of compromises with the fiddleyard, so I’d be tempted to put your efforts into the 009 layout which doesn’t exist yet so you can design it to make most use of the space perhaps...? I noticed yellow tape holding your mocked up building together. What is it please? I use electrical tape which is ok but a bit thick. I already have control panel envy. Love your existing one so am interested in seeing your new one. I did a video with Inkscape control panel tips a few months ago if that would be of help/inspiration. Bye for now. Michael.
Hi Michael, thanks for the comment. The yellow tape is just ordinary masking tape - easy to reposition and providing you don't leave it for too long it comes off easily. I am thinking of using inkscape for the design and have seen your video - I would like to get the design printed on to some kind of plastic rather than paper to make it more durable - any thoughts on that? One one hand I want to crack on with this layout, but on the other I'd love to get some baseboards set up for the narrow gauge! Too much to do and too little time! Cheers Liam
Cheers Liam. I had mine professionally printed onto paper. About 200GSM I think. Once stuck with normal Pritt to a piece of painted plywood and then given 4 coats of Ronseal Matt varnish, it is smooth and plastic-like and has remained perfectly stuck and blemish-free. I’ll send you a quick video look at it if you’re interested.
Hi Michael, that would be great. I’m looking for ideas and didn’t think of the varnish. I’ve salvaged a sheet of acrylic from an old photo frame which may be a option if it cuts and drills ok.
Just a thought, but if you are thinking of making the space beside the transverser into a scenic section, why not remove some of the existing scenic Farm area and put in something like a couple of short goods sidings and a goods shed?
Hi Ray, I already have a good shed and yard in the station area. I am considering using this area for a rural scene and leaving the railway alone. Thanks
Wow, that is a considerable amount of proposed work, so good luck! I see your problems with extending around the fiddle yard. I agree that you are too tight for space for an incline up or down. I would suggest a removable scenic section to finish off the road bridge. Perhaps, extend the road into the distance and put in a small scenic area off that. Could be an industrial area, an army camp entrance, hillside, dairy, cement works, scrapyard, quarry, etc? On the other end, extend the town to put in shops or a town hall or a small park? The Peckett is a great little runner as I bought one last year.
yes, plenty of work though it never really ends! I think extending the road bridge will help and allow the creating of another scene probably rural here. I do find a lot of enjoyment in creating buildings so extending the town will given me more scope to create new buildings. Thanks
@@deansburytownmodelrailway5056 One thing I’ve learned, always build with purpose. What is the local industry? Can you incorporate it into your layout? Industrial towns, although grimy, still had immense civic pride and the Victorians demonstrated this in their public buildings. Sometimes even sewage pumping stations were a work of art! That’s why I suggested a town hall or park as a change from more streets.
Hi, thanks for the suggestion, there is already a small single road shed that goes in the 'industrial' corner, which also has a diesel fuel point. I think a turntable may be too much of a squeeze as well!
@@deansburytownmodelrailway5056 if you add more scenery near the fiddle yard you can always put a decent size loco shed there with a small turntable, there's plenty of turntable kits out there for the smaller tables. And loco sheds weren't always right next to a station, most of them were miles away from one
Another fantastic video! One thought it had regarding extending the layout, could the layout not be turned by 90 degrees to that you can extend? Or will it not fit that way? With your points, try Gaugemaster autofrogs, they're £20 for a pack of three, and will automatically change frog polarity when a loco goes over it. I use them on my layout and they're really good, not to mention easy to install. I did have a thought about your control panel, why not mount it on the wall just below the middle shelf? That way you can read it as it will be within your arm's length, and it removes the need for you to remove it every time you need to lean over that corner of the layout. Your fiddle yard is really impressive, I did consider doing a traverser like that when I was looking at building a roundy roundy layout. I do agree that extending the scenery and adding a bridge to the entrance to the fiddle yard will vastly improve things, and give you a proper science break, and also move the track away from the baseboard edge! Have you considered a small loco shed on the layout? Great video though buddy, always good to see your layout. Chris
Hi Chris, thanks for the comment - glad you liked the video. Unfortunately the layout wont fit the other way - which I did try long ago, its about 6 inches too wide much to my frustration! I will take a look at the autofrogs, I've not come across these before. That's a good suggestion for the control panel, I will have a measure and see what works. There is a loco shed in the back corner already, which I'd lifted of for this video, but can be seen in the layout intro vid. I like the idea of extending the road bridge to give more of a scenic break, will add that to the list of possibilities! Cheers Liam
Just had a quick look at the frog juicers - they look quick similar to what I would have ended up making with the relay but ready made. I’ve still got to remove the points to get the wires to the frogs, but the juicer should save quite a bit of work soldering up the relays, so thanks for the advice!
@@deansburytownmodelrailway5056 You don't need to remove the points to add them. all you need to do is carefully drill a hole next to one of the rails that makes up the V of the frog, and solder the common wire to it, then if your points are the newer type, cut the little wires underneath the gaps on the closure rails with a thin sharp knife blade, or if they're the older type carefully cut the rails about half between the frog and point blades. Then you need to solder a short piece of wire between stock rail and closure rail. You can do all of that in situ, then paint the pice of wire to hide it. I'm in the process of doing this to all of my pints to increase reliability, as I'm having the same issues, mainly because my layout was originally DC. Once done you'll never have to clean a point blade again!
@@deansburytownmodelrailway5056 no worries buddy! Also it helps to remember that you don’t need to solder two wires to the point for track power to the auto frog, you can just take two wires from your DCC bus and the auto frog does the witchcraft for you. I have a ‘bus bar’ under each board and have the auto frogs fed from that
Yes nice plans for the layout, good luck with them, I will follow the layout development with interest!
Many Thanks! Likewise, I am trying to keep up with your layout as well
Superb video, I've subbed for more
Many Thanks, more videos on their way!
Nice update and great to see more of the layout in context. My thoughts on the extension would be to leave it for now. There are a lot of compromises with the fiddleyard, so I’d be tempted to put your efforts into the 009 layout which doesn’t exist yet so you can design it to make most use of the space perhaps...? I noticed yellow tape holding your mocked up building together. What is it please? I use electrical tape which is ok but a bit thick. I already have control panel envy. Love your existing one so am interested in seeing your new one. I did a video with Inkscape control panel tips a few months ago if that would be of help/inspiration. Bye for now. Michael.
Hi Michael, thanks for the comment. The yellow tape is just ordinary masking tape - easy to reposition and providing you don't leave it for too long it comes off easily. I am thinking of using inkscape for the design and have seen your video - I would like to get the design printed on to some kind of plastic rather than paper to make it more durable - any thoughts on that? One one hand I want to crack on with this layout, but on the other I'd love to get some baseboards set up for the narrow gauge! Too much to do and too little time! Cheers Liam
Cheers Liam. I had mine professionally printed onto paper. About 200GSM I think. Once stuck with normal Pritt to a piece of painted plywood and then given 4 coats of Ronseal Matt varnish, it is smooth and plastic-like and has remained perfectly stuck and blemish-free. I’ll send you a quick video look at it if you’re interested.
Hi Michael, that would be great. I’m looking for ideas and didn’t think of the varnish. I’ve salvaged a sheet of acrylic from an old photo frame which may be a option if it cuts and drills ok.
Just a thought, but if you are thinking of making the space beside the transverser into a scenic section, why not remove some of the existing scenic Farm area and put in something like a couple of short goods sidings and a goods shed?
Hi Ray, I already have a good shed and yard in the station area. I am considering using this area for a rural scene and leaving the railway alone. Thanks
Hi
Another idea for the scenic section by road - sewage works with filter beds - not often modelled You could motorise the filter bed system!
Thanks Ray, that is one thing I had never considered modelling!
@@deansburytownmodelrailway5056 You can buy resin 1/76 scale filter beds from Anyscale Models
@@deansburytownmodelrailway5056 Another suggestion would be convert the river into a canal and model a flight of locks!
Wow, that is a considerable amount of proposed work, so good luck! I see your problems with extending around the fiddle yard. I agree that you are too tight for space for an incline up or down. I would suggest a removable scenic section to finish off the road bridge. Perhaps, extend the road into the distance and put in a small scenic area off that. Could be an industrial area, an army camp entrance, hillside, dairy, cement works, scrapyard, quarry, etc? On the other end, extend the town to put in shops or a town hall or a small park? The Peckett is a great little runner as I bought one last year.
yes, plenty of work though it never really ends! I think extending the road bridge will help and allow the creating of another scene probably rural here. I do find a lot of enjoyment in creating buildings so extending the town will given me more scope to create new buildings. Thanks
@@deansburytownmodelrailway5056 One thing I’ve learned, always build with purpose. What is the local industry? Can you incorporate it into your layout? Industrial towns, although grimy, still had immense civic pride and the Victorians demonstrated this in their public buildings. Sometimes even sewage pumping stations were a work of art! That’s why I suggested a town hall or park as a change from more streets.
Like video thanks
Thanks for the visit Dave
@@deansburytownmodelrailway5056 Thanks doing a layout to
you could put a turntable and engine sheds in the corner.
Hi, thanks for the suggestion, there is already a small single road shed that goes in the 'industrial' corner, which also has a diesel fuel point. I think a turntable may be too much of a squeeze as well!
@@deansburytownmodelrailway5056 if you add more scenery near the fiddle yard you can always put a decent size loco shed there with a small turntable, there's plenty of turntable kits out there for the smaller tables. And loco sheds weren't always right next to a station, most of them were miles away from one
Another fantastic video! One thought it had regarding extending the layout, could the layout not be turned by 90 degrees to that you can extend? Or will it not fit that way? With your points, try Gaugemaster autofrogs, they're £20 for a pack of three, and will automatically change frog polarity when a loco goes over it. I use them on my layout and they're really good, not to mention easy to install. I did have a thought about your control panel, why not mount it on the wall just below the middle shelf? That way you can read it as it will be within your arm's length, and it removes the need for you to remove it every time you need to lean over that corner of the layout. Your fiddle yard is really impressive, I did consider doing a traverser like that when I was looking at building a roundy roundy layout. I do agree that extending the scenery and adding a bridge to the entrance to the fiddle yard will vastly improve things, and give you a proper science break, and also move the track away from the baseboard edge! Have you considered a small loco shed on the layout?
Great video though buddy, always good to see your layout. Chris
Hi Chris, thanks for the comment - glad you liked the video. Unfortunately the layout wont fit the other way - which I did try long ago, its about 6 inches too wide much to my frustration! I will take a look at the autofrogs, I've not come across these before. That's a good suggestion for the control panel, I will have a measure and see what works. There is a loco shed in the back corner already, which I'd lifted of for this video, but can be seen in the layout intro vid. I like the idea of extending the road bridge to give more of a scenic break, will add that to the list of possibilities! Cheers Liam
Just had a quick look at the frog juicers - they look quick similar to what I would have ended up making with the relay but ready made. I’ve still got to remove the points to get the wires to the frogs, but the juicer should save quite a bit of work soldering up the relays, so thanks for the advice!
@@deansburytownmodelrailway5056 You don't need to remove the points to add them. all you need to do is carefully drill a hole next to one of the rails that makes up the V of the frog, and solder the common wire to it, then if your points are the newer type, cut the little wires underneath the gaps on the closure rails with a thin sharp knife blade, or if they're the older type carefully cut the rails about half between the frog and point blades. Then you need to solder a short piece of wire between stock rail and closure rail. You can do all of that in situ, then paint the pice of wire to hide it. I'm in the process of doing this to all of my pints to increase reliability, as I'm having the same issues, mainly because my layout was originally DC. Once done you'll never have to clean a point blade again!
@@chrisderby986 You may have saved me a lot of time!
@@deansburytownmodelrailway5056 no worries buddy! Also it helps to remember that you don’t need to solder two wires to the point for track power to the auto frog, you can just take two wires from your DCC bus and the auto frog does the witchcraft for you. I have a ‘bus bar’ under each board and have the auto frogs fed from that
Hi
One more suggestion for your hillside by the transverser would a be a Gas works. See TH-cam Model Railroader.
Leave it as it is its sweet
Cheers - that would be the easiest thing to do!