Arduino Uno R4 Wifi LESSON 2: How to Build Circuits With a Breadboard
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 31 ม.ค. 2024
- Pick your Sunfounder kit up so you get the same results I do:
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In this video I show you how to get started with the Arduino R4 Wifi. I will show you how you can build circuits with the breadboard included with the Sunfounder kit. I will then give a homework assignment to build a simple blinking LED using the components in the kit.
[Disclosure of Material Connection: I am a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. ]
#arduinor4wifi
#gettingstarted
#tutorial - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Protect this guy at all costs
Mr. McWhorter. Your explanation of how the LED works in a series circuit was so easy to understand that it made me feel like I was learning it fresh all over again!
I'm so excited to be on this platform to take apart of the Ardduino4 series! Thank you Paul!
Hope you enjoy it!
Cannot agree more! Let's go lesson N2
Thank you, this is great, I got down to 13ms blink but if you make delays different you can get a lower millisecond after off and still see blink. I haven’t finished your r3 lessons up to about 33 but this has motivated me to do the rest. Great for a retiree to keep the mind active. I now look at automatic operating devices differently and try to work out how they operate. Being a retired plumbing educator I now realise how sensor taps, water flow lights, hand dryers, door openers, urinals etc operate, thanks again.
Good job. keep up the homework. But it would be good if you put your homework under the video that the homework was mentioned, but that is just what I recommend, but do what you wish.
Look forward to your new Arduino 4 series! Paul, Thank you for all you do, I have learned so much and l am excited to continue to explore on this new platform! Keep up the great work!
Thanks! Hope you enjoy the new class.
This is a great lesson on ohms law. Nice pace to help me understand. I really didn’t understand resistors before. Thanks.
This is a huge upgrade from r3 series. You're great! ❤
Thank you Paul for this new series
got the circuit completed. Blinked the morse code. I got to get my kids to show me this upload video TH-cam stuff. Once again great lesson. Quick side note, I really like your how to know God series too.
Nice work!
Thank you for the lesson Paul!
In the past i was working with old-fashioned plc systems. You had to use truth tabels and had to burn eproms to make them work. It was quite fiddly and tedious, one mistake and you had to erase the eprom and do it all over again. Im glad they use arduinos now. Im more a builder than a programmer so these lessons are great for me!
Hi Paul, I just wanted to thank you for taking time out of your schedule to create this series and for the others that you have created in the past. I believe there is a discrepancy in your calculation for the LED current liming resistor. I'm sure that you know this and may be trying to keep it simple for the beginners. You are looking that there will be 5VDC dropped across the resistor which is not correct. All LEDs will have a forward voltage drop across them when they are on. Most red LEDs will have approximately 2.0VDC across them while other colored LEDs such as blue may have a higher voltage drop of around 3.0VDC. Looking at the red LED with a voltage drop of 2.0VDC, there will be 3VDC across the resistor. Using Ohm's law of V=IR and rearranging the equation to R=V/I gives a resistance value of 375Ω = 3/.008. Although, this value is not in our kit, using a 330Ω which is in our kit would yield a current of 9.1mA which I would still consider too high. Although 390Ω is not in our kit, it is a standard resistor value which would yield a current draw of 7.7mA. And with a 1kΩ resistor as used in this lesson would yield a current value of 3mA. Thanks for the ear Paul and have a super great day!
I dont think you understand what I am trying to do. The current across a diode is exponential with voltage, meaning small changes in voltage can lead to very large changes in current. As the current increases, the diode can heat up, and you can end up in a run away condition. Hence, we can not say what the voltage drop across the diode will be. So, to ensure we operate in a manner that we will not damage the arduino, we assume all voltage will drop across the resistor, and then calculate a resistance value that will give 8ma. This ensures that no matter what is going on with the LED, you will never draw more than 8 ma. The design then becomes intrinsically safe.
Thanks for the question (as well as, to Mr.McWhorter, the answer) - I was wondering about the voltage drop across the LED.
I bought my Arduino R4 wifi yesterday im ready to rock!
I did your last set of Arduino lessons, and (as I have seen in the comments for last week) I am using the Uno R3 Arduino (as Amazon hasn't delivered my R4 WiFi one, yet!). I remembered a different value of resistor (to limit the current). While the Uno R4 WiFi can deliver 8mA, the old R3 could deliver a higher current, and so we used a different value of resistor. I'll be posting my homework in a little while.
Man, that coffee looks good. ALL THE TIME.
Thank you Paul, Cheers！
Love this guy. ❤❤❤❤
Thanks for your time Paul,just sent a short over but not sure if i have done it correctly ,new to using youtube stuff😅
Excellent..!
An easy way to remember ground led lights connections, Think of the resistor as a block of wood, And if you look at the inside of the led light, To what appears to be an axe. The axe always chops the wood, Meaning
The ax part of the light is choppingngtthe resistor visually
Good news, the kit is back in stock and I should receive it within a week!
I would agree 13ms, I can still detect the blinking, Peter NZ
High Paul. Just started to watch your new series on the R4 - already done a lot of the V3 - so wont make comments on homework but will watch future episodes with interest. Just one problem though, could you please - as I listen with headphones - isolate your Mic from your work bench as every time you enthusiastically bang the bench its like an Howitzer being fired in a war zone :-}. Telboy
Hey Paul, I am going through this series for the first time on a week by week basis as they are coming out. Even though the beginning videos are very basic, I am learning new things. For example even though I have been trying to learn electronics for the past couple of years, I never thought about or understood how the resistor is chosen for the LED. But, Professor, I still have some questions. For all the previous projects I have done, I used about 200-300 ohm resistors with the LEDs. Is this because the amp output for the I/O pins on the Uno R4 is so low? I noted the amp out for the R3 is 20 milliamps instead of 8 milliamps. Is this a significant limitation on what peripherals can be run from the I/O pins on the R4?
The R4 digital pins can only safely source 8 ma and the R3 could do more. Hence, we need a bigger resistor.
Hello Paul,
I like your Arduino lessens. I bought the Arduino R4 WIFI after I have done the R4 lessons and I started whit the R4 WIFI lessons.
When I download the first blink sketches with 200 ms blinks the arduino does not really blink but faded away. You hardly see the blinking. When you use the rest button the blinking becomes more sharper. Is there a delay in the system? I like your lessons.
Thanks.
Good point. I learned as a Navy Aviation Electronics Technician not to trust electronics.
1:45 into video you say to turn LED on you set the voltage to HIGH but then to turn it off you set it to off.
Didn't You mean to say that to turn the LED off the voltage is set to LOW?
P.S. Love your lessons! Wish I were in your classroom.
P.S. I've found that Plano plastic tackle boxes with slide-out drawers are great for storing/organizing component kits are really handy for transporting as well.
Especially since the drawers have customizable plastic dividers. 😁
A slight oversimplification on the resistor calculation. The voltage accros the resistor is not 5V. it's 5V minus the forward voltage of the LED, which for a red LED is usually about 1.7V. So 5V - 1.7V = 3.3V. R = V / I therefore R = 3.3 / 0.008 = 412ohm. Still might select 1K just to be sure though. 1K will actually give a current nearer 3mA.
Please watch today's supplemental video, where I explain better why I am doing it the way I am. Assigning a 'usual' value for red led can indeed lead to a circuit that will burn out the arduino. Watch my video today for a better explanation.
Thanks for the question (as well as, to Mr.McWhorter, the answer) - I was wondering about the voltage drop across the LED.
I see the lesson is at 7:00 AM. I'm in California. Is it Pacific Standard Time or a different time zone?
Don't want to miss it!!
TH-cam should show you the time in your local time. Dont adjust it, just believe what it is telling you.
Yes, in California it will be 7:00AM but chatting is sooner!
Need voltage drop for the LED, and don't forget the arrows for the LED symbol.
I assume that all voltage drops across the resistor. This ensures that no matter what happens in the LED, the circuit will never draw more than 8 mA, and hence will never damage the arduino. Imagine the LED failed in a way that it became shorted. Even in such a case, the current would not be more than 8 mA and the arduino would not be damaged.
Looks like I'll have to hold off on ordering a SunFounder Elite Explorer Kit until the end of the Chinese Labor Day. But not having the kit did keep me from writing the code to send the SOS... Why do I hear ABBA, "So when you're near me, Darlin can't you hear me? SOS."
I know there must be a better way to send each Dit or Da... I added a bunch of comments to keep my head straight...
Homework accomplished and video, not very good quality I'm afraid, but uploaded anyway. The description contains a link back to this lesson.
Link to video: th-cam.com/video/UJ8DchnDCxY/w-d-xo.html
LEGEND!
Is there something in a comment that prevents it from being posted by TH-cam?
Robert, Your comments are being published, and you are repeating yourself. Please relax.
And we are done. th-cam.com/video/NcU9C6JPkco/w-d-xo.html Really looking forward to this series and what I will learn. You have such a great teaching style, Paul.
LEGEND!
I am legend double chest bump, except I have no idea how to post anything to youtube so maybe I'm a walmart chair after all????
Did first lesson got to 16 ms.
You can teach an old dog to do new tricks !!! Thanks.
Here's my solution for the homework assignment: th-cam.com/video/eNOXOovuPm4/w-d-xo.html
LEGEND!
Here's my homework #2 fresh out of the oven : th-cam.com/video/E88bkhyrN_8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=DRVqwTU4N86DXcio
Thank you again! I look forward to video #3!
LEGEND!
Video: th-cam.com/video/bkMNRoFDhac/w-d-xo.html
int ditt = 250; //delay time for a dot
int dat = 500; //delay time for a dash
int lett = 750; //delay time between letters
int i = 0; //a counter
void da_dit(int ta, int tb); //function prototype
void setup() {
// put your setup code here, to run once:
pinMode(13, OUTPUT);
}
void loop() {
digitalWrite(13, LOW);
da_dit(ditt, lett);
da_dit(dat, lett);
da_dit(ditt, lett);
delay(lett);
// put your main code here, to run repeatedly:
}
//definition of function that blinks LED
void da_dit(int ta, int tb){
for(i = 0; i < 3; i++){
digitalWrite(13, HIGH);
delay(ta);
digitalWrite(13, LOW);
delay(tb);
}
}
Got the homework done: th-cam.com/video/PC5sMWTvncc/w-d-xo.html. Thanks for the lesson!
Yes I did it. And my video is here. th-cam.com/video/EnlBt_Yjmf0/w-d-xo.html . I'm still using my R3, because Amazon haven't managed to get my R4 WiFi to me yet.
smoke has to stay in the board
I posted my homework and code twice. I don't see it anywhere.....Really Wierd!
I moderate all comments, so comments do not appear until I look at them and approve. I do that once a day, so might be one day delay for your comments to show.
My homework srry about the bad quality th-cam.com/video/-DQFafIqGuc/w-d-xo.html
LEGEND!
Hi Paul! Thanks a lot for the lesson. It worked for one LED so i grabbed three more and a button I found in the kit (code in the description): th-cam.com/video/i0yaXoJLCcs/w-d-xo.html. It was really fun! enjoy the weekend and thanks again 🙌🏻
LEGEND!
got the circuit and the Code complete:
th-cam.com/users/shortsAhZ8x1j8Tfw?si=1ZEYItpyzMKOPEM2
You have set the video to private so no one can see it. Try uploading normal video instead of using shorts, might be easier.
Surely theres a way to condense the code other than how i did it , but i did get it done!
th-cam.com/users/shortsfhoe0dIXIsY?si=QrvArYzw517_-em5
LEGEND!
Code: void setup() {
pinMode(13,OUTPUT);
// put your setup code here, to run once:
}
void loop() {
// put your main code here, to run repeatedly:
digitalWrite(13,HIGH);
delay(100);
digitalWrite(13,LOW);
delay(100);
digitalWrite(13,HIGH);
delay(100);
digitalWrite(13,LOW);
delay(100);
digitalWrite(13,HIGH);
delay(100);
digitalWrite(13,LOW);
delay(200);
digitalWrite(13,HIGH);
delay(200);
digitalWrite(13,LOW);
delay(200);
digitalWrite(13,HIGH);
delay(200);
digitalWrite(13,LOW);
delay(200);
digitalWrite(13,HIGH);
delay(200);
digitalWrite(13,LOW);
delay(200);
digitalWrite(13,HIGH);
delay(100);
digitalWrite(13,LOW);
delay(100);
digitalWrite(13,HIGH);
delay(100);
digitalWrite(13,LOW);
delay(100);
digitalWrite(13,HIGH);
delay(100);
digitalWrite(13,LOW);
delay(100);
delay(500);