Weathering an HO Scale Ballast Car Unit Train
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ส.ค. 2024
- Weathering an HO Scale Ballast Car Unit Train
In this video I weather up 13 HO Scale 70 ton ballast cars made by Bowser using what I call an "assembly line process". The weathering is based on some prototype photos I found of similar ballast cars. Hope you enjoy!
I have to build my rolling stock since I model the turn of the 20th century. It's hard to find ready to roll rolling stock from the early 1900's, so I build Tichy Train Group models that have great detail and look great when finished. I've already built 2 ore cars, 1 40' 50 ton flatcar and a 40' 50 ton wood side gondola. All the models came out looking like more expensive models that you spend big bucks on. I also scratch build for HO scale and Lionel 027 which is O scale. Not too many modelers left that like to build their own buildings and rolling stock.
I found this old pint can of Rustoleum rusty metal primer that works great for ore cars and is perfect for boxcar red. I also use it to paint the wheels for a rust color. That can of paint must be 40 years old. I thinned it with lacquer thinner to shoot it through my HF Avanti .3mm airbrush. Flowed perfectly. Cheers from eastern TN
This is probably one of my favorite weathering videos I've found on youtube in quite some time. Excellent work on these cars, really liked how realistic they looked all together at the end too!
Thanks for watching!
I really appreciate how organized you are.
Organization is key to these "assembly" line projects, nothing puts a damper on a project than lost parts!!!
Great job and presentation joey!!!
A super conservative. I'm the same way. I save absolutely everything. I'm new to the hobby, but your videos have shown me the way. I appreciate the knowledge.
Awesome tips! Like your homemade wheel holder to paint the wheels.
Thanks, it gets the job done!
Well done! Models and video. Thank you for sharing this!
Thanks! These were a lot of fun. I'll be "assembly line" weathering a bunch of covered hoppers in the future, looking forward to that
I have close to two dozen, if not more, similar E&B Valley, Details West & the like ballast hopper kits from the late 80s-early 90s to make a unit ballast train. This video will be very helpful getting some variation between the cars.
@edoconnell7070 Glad you found it helpful!
Another super coll technique is to paint a very light white layer for a sunbleached look- then, take a very thinned brown paint (with thinner that will break through the white layer) and dot it all over. Let it sit for about a minute, then take a brush and streak down. If you did it right, you will get nice rust spots that look like they have a brown trail below them from water damage.
I plan on getting a couple of the ATSF cars for a project I'm working on and wasn't fully sure how to go about it until now this video will be extremely helpful in weathering them!
@texastrainfan56 Very cool, glad this was helpful for you!
Thanks for the tutorial! Gave me a couple tips. The cars look absolutely fantastic! Thanks for taking the time to make the video. I know it is time consuming to produce so Thank You!
I’m getting brave enough to tackle my Scale Trains locomotives. 😉
To me black is a tricky color to fade just right.
Thanks! Yeah I haven't attempted anything black yet. I know NSModeler24 has done some weathering videos with his ScaleTrains NS locomotives, might want to check him out
Fantastic work Joey, really makes me want to weather some trains again.
Thanks! Do it!
Great video, thanks, cheers Peter
Looks Amazing Joey! Good idea on doing the steps
those came out really nice
Looks great!
That is quite a process, but those cars look great! Thanks for sharing.🇨🇦
You’re very talented 👍
Thank you! Just trying my best to make them look decent
Perfect. I just bought a whole bunch of these Bowser's last week. Great ideas. Thanks!
I really appreciate that you are teaching us something. I've used other stuff that you shared and I plan on saving this too. Thank you again, Chris
Glad you found this useful!
Grrreat Job! Like the weathering layers and the pencil trick! Like to have seen the reference photo. The wheel end points and truck journals will need to be cleaned for rolling purposes or the "brakes" will be on! 🙂
Thanks! I don't show the reference photos because I don't own them, and I don't want to infringe on any copyrights of the photographer.
Scraping the tip of a number 2 pencil with a razor makes perfect Road Grime also
Very well edited. Nice to have a video that moves right along.
Thanks!
as always beautiful work. i know those little spray cans are kind of on the expensive side, I was getting ready to start a 42 car Tropicana train. A friend of mine turned me on to rust-oleum 279178 camouflage earth brown for the trucks and woodland scenics rusty rail TT4581 paint marker for the wheels. All in all it worked out really well and the slight difference in the wheel rust and the truck color especially after adding some weathering powders. Looking forward to the next one
Thanks! I chose the Tamiya paint for that specific color. Also, for some reason I can't find any of that Rustoleum camo paint at my local hardware stores, it's like a conspiracy to keep that color away from me lol.
Excellent video. I will certainly want to try the pencil trick. Thank you!
Video and step-by-step presentation was excellent.
Suggestion: Obtain a sheet of styrene that is the same thickness as the wheel treads. Cut out two strips about an inch wide by maybe a foot long. Mark the long centerlines of each and then mark the centerlines every 3/4 inch. Drill out the 3/8 inch holes as you did for the wood holder. You should now be able to insert a row of wheelsets in one strip and then lay the other strip atop the opposite wheels of the wheelsets. The result will be the treads all masked off with the rest of the wheels, inside and out, free to paint as desired.
Great job. Thanks for sharing.
I know shit about model trains but man, this looks awesome with the building next to it.
What I would have done differently: keep one of the wagons "unweathered" and add a few dents left and right.
Very nice! I like how you painted your wheels. 👍
Thanks! These were fun to weather up
My dude, I just found your channel and I'm loving it so far!
Thanks! Glad it's enjoyable material!
Very nice weathering!
Really good
Great tutorial. I enjoyed your explanation of techniques and materials used. Could you tell me what kind of dullcote you used after each application of weathering, and whether you hand brushed or airbrushed the dullcote? Thanks
I used Testors dullcote from an aerosol can
@@JoeyBPhotography Thanks.
Great job weathering. What product did you use for "dullcoat?"
Thanks! Testors dullcote in an aerosol can
Look great! Maybe you can "tag" a couple of the cars with some graffiti. Nice work!
11:38 is my favorite part of this video.
Thanks for taking a peek!
Newbie here. Do you let the oil later dry before applying the dull coat or can you apply dull coat when oil layer is wet? Thank you.
Thanks for stopping by! Let the oil layer dry first before dullcote or any other layer of weathering that comes next, otherwise you could seal in the moisture and it'll ruin your next layers of weathering because it will smudge/come off. Oil is notorious for taking a while to dry, but there are things you can do to speed up the process:
- squeeze your oil paint onto a piece of cardboard and let it sit for a while (30-45 minutes) before painting with it, the cardboard will draw some of the linseed oil out from the paint and it'll dry faster after applying it
- after applying thin oil washes, use a hair dryer at an arm's length away from the model on slow setting with med-high heat and gently blow the warm air across the model in sweeping motions, this will help dry up the mineral spirits or whatever the wash agent is and let the oil paint portion dry quicker
Hope this helps!
Thank you for the fast and thorough reply!
@@JoeyBPhotography
😲👍
Awesome Man!!!! Curious as to what sun fading you'd use on a black hopper?
Thanks! For a black hopper, I'd either use a grey acrylic paint with an airbrush, or take a white oil paint and put it on and wipe most of it off to create a thin translucent layer
Great tutorial, thanks. Especially the tip with the pencil on the trucks! Can I ask why you used Vallejo Hull Red for the interior and Tamiya Hull Red for the spatter? Do you notice any difference in them? I have the Vallejo Hull Red and some AK 3rd Gen Hull Red, and use them interchangeably depending on which is closer at hand.
Thanks! I used the Vallejo for both the interior and spatter. I might have misspoke somewhere in there. I used the Tamiya hull red with the grey to airbrush the car to fade the paint.
@@JoeyBPhotography More likely that I got it mixed up. LOL Thanks. 👍
I will be using your wheel mask method, the acrylic ones are trash.
I think it's because the acrylic shapes they cut out are just too thin. I get that the thickness needs to be thin because of the wheels, but I don't think they really thought out how wide the acrylic needs to be. I'm thinking about creating a much better wheel masking template instead of randomly drilling holes lol
Spring no rust
Springs get rusty
Truck gets dirty not rusty. . You do not want to run with rust on the trucks . So please get your facts right . I sent 40 years out there . Great job .
Thanks for the info. Something to think about in future weathering projects. For these they will remain, since I don't feel like changing them all lol
Trucks get dirty and rusty
@@JoeyBPhotography don't change anything the rust is just fine on freight car trucks
Looks great too bad they are HO 🤣
To further enhance the realism take the trip pin off too. JMHO 🤷♂
That can be good news or bad news and owner preference. Most clubs require trip pins because of the delayed action by uncoupling magnetic ramps. Plus, I know trip pins are cut because of couplers being to low. Agreed on the realism.