Arc'teryx Tips: Cleaning an Anchor with Janelle Smiley

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ส.ค. 2019
  • Janelle Smiley shares her tips for safely cleaning an anchor from the 2019 Arc'teryx Climbing Academy.
    squamish.arcteryxacademy.com
    Video: John Price
  • กีฬา

ความคิดเห็น • 26

  • @ihasjb3
    @ihasjb3 11 หลายเดือนก่อน +11

    Oh my days this is, no exaggeration, the single best climbing tech video I've ever seen. Where have you been all my life, production team :o ❤

  • @justinwallace3984
    @justinwallace3984 4 ปีที่แล้ว +37

    Lol all hear tail literally just disappeared

    • @2bfrank657
      @2bfrank657 2 หลายเดือนก่อน

      Ha ha, good spotting 😂

  • @TylerSchwab
    @TylerSchwab 4 ปีที่แล้ว +8

    I don't know of a safer way to clean a two bolt anchor. You will also notice that Janelle used two slings to connect her locking carabiner to her harness for redundancy - this is something I haven't done previously and will take into consideration from now on. Thanks for the video guys! Short, sweet and very informative

    • @Bemo09
      @Bemo09 7 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      It's probably a longer sling folded double, not two slings.

  • @annalipetska5539
    @annalipetska5539 28 วันที่ผ่านมา +1

    In this video, sometimes, the quickdraws are clipped into the rings, sometimes into the bolts. What is the recommended way?

  • @mafan.stenole
    @mafan.stenole 10 หลายเดือนก่อน +4

    in the end the figure of eight on a bight tail got shorter

  • @goldiefish94
    @goldiefish94 4 ปีที่แล้ว +7

    Considering the longevity of the anchors, isn't it better to rappel off the rap rings rather than lowering?

    • @markweedon5678
      @markweedon5678 4 ปีที่แล้ว +9

      Rap rings are constantly shifting the lowering point so you dont get the grooving associated with carabiners or quick links as anchor points. They will last many many years. Even the bolts themselves will be more suspect before the rap rings wear out. This is well accepted to be the cleanest, safest way of cleaning an anchor. Could have tested the new system before untying the original tie-in first though...

    • @Nev4
      @Nev4 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      No

    • @Vim_Tim
      @Vim_Tim 8 หลายเดือนก่อน +2

      This depends on the ethics of the area and the anchor hardware.
      The rappel rings in this video are most likely steel, as seen by the weld in the ring. These will withstand at least thousands of lower-offs before creating grooves large enough to weaken the ring or damage a rope.

  •  4 ปีที่แล้ว +6

    Very fast indeed. However, there is a problem, e.g. in Poland it is forbidden to slide directly through the rings - they wear out too quickly. Sorry for my english xD

    • @longb1913
      @longb1913 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      how u meant to lower off then retard

    • @Blaucreations
      @Blaucreations ปีที่แล้ว +3

      How you do?

    • @climbjay
      @climbjay 10 หลายเดือนก่อน +3

      How else are you supposed to get down 🤷🏻‍♂️

    • @cycloneranger5354
      @cycloneranger5354 9 หลายเดือนก่อน +3

      Pretty dumb imo, they are easy and cheap to replace as far as I'm concerned, much safer and cheaper than leaving gear on the wall or repelling and paying a funeral for noobs

    • @2bfrank657
      @2bfrank657 2 หลายเดือนก่อน

      ​@@climbjaysome people would abseil instead

  • @zirbengeist5317
    @zirbengeist5317 4 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    Isn’t metal on metal a bad idea?

    • @nathanlachow2050
      @nathanlachow2050 4 ปีที่แล้ว +7

      No, this isn't an issue where there isn't an edge- we're concerned with metal on metal anywhere where it's limiting factor- the reduced flexibility, would be an issue. On a masterpoint, here, this is a recommended use.

    • @zonlymachine
      @zonlymachine 4 ปีที่แล้ว

      Nathan Lachow is there another way to explain that , still didn’t quite understand

    • @nathanlachow2050
      @nathanlachow2050 4 ปีที่แล้ว +5

      @@zonlymachine Sure- metal on metal is a general rule of thumb that's floated around for a long time. The reason is that carabiners are not rated for torsion forces (bending and twisting). When you have a nylon connection point, you can be certain that things will be able to move freely to avoid this. However, metal on metal is still fine in any other situation, like this one, where there won't be and bending or twisting going on, as forces are in line and not over an edge.

    • @Nev4
      @Nev4 4 ปีที่แล้ว +7

      What do you think happens every time you clip a quick draw to a bolt

  • @mattbrown3603
    @mattbrown3603 4 ปีที่แล้ว +19

    Were you trying to teach or was it a race? Seemed more like a race to me.

    • @Furansowakun
      @Furansowakun ปีที่แล้ว +13

      It was much better than some videos where they talk 10 min long without much informations

    • @climbjay
      @climbjay 10 หลายเดือนก่อน +4

      All the information was contained within the video wasn’t it?! What’s your issue?! You needed her to take 20 minutes to show something she can do in one minute?!
      Re watch it 20 times if your brain is too slow.

  • @vlaaady
    @vlaaady ปีที่แล้ว

    You should live up to your name and smile more ;)