I can't actually say that I am on a mission to cover the state in Sapote. Like Johnny Apple seed, who was one of Americas first successful nurserymen, I intend to make a profit from all these seeds. I have an associate who will buy all the fruiting trees I can provide for distribution on Earth Day. Together, you might call the two of us Johnny Sapote.
The White Sapote will produce a decent tree from seeds in most cases. They will not be exactly like the parent but if the seeds come from quality plants most will be pretty good. On the other hand, if you wish to maintain an existing type you will need to graft. The seedlings would be the first step in the process. Once they grow to pencil size you can insert scions from the mother tree with a cleft or whip graft.
*Your methods are similar to mine whereas you keep it simple. (you're experienced)* *I really like the no waste of potting mix, in your multiple pot filling in the tub technique, that's a new one on me, that I'll be using from now on.* *Thank You!.....(Johnny Sapote)* *Thumbs Up # 115*
Yes, about 20 years ago when first growing this plant I used to open the seeds first. The results were a bit uneven but the germination dropped by about 20% over uncracked seeds due to embryo damage from the cracking. I found the same was true with macnuts. In those days I would grow 10 or 12 plants. These days I grow hundreds of them and the process of cracking is extra labor with no advantage. Consider the fact that the tree has survived for millions of years without cracking.
I have been growing the fruit in this 2 months and it is 7-8 inch already. so happy. the reason i am watching this video to know should i cut them now ? to grow more or not? thanks
Bill, I planted four grafted varieties last year in Ocala Florida 9a zone. I heard there is a large tree on the University of Florida campus 40 miles north of me. That tree has never fruited. Is the lack of fruiting a cold environment thing or a pollination problem? I purchased four trees two each are different varieties. I planted them semi close together in hope they will help with pollination. However even if I never get fruit they are such beautiful trees.
Zone 9 A Florida should be suitable. Some White Sapote are not self fertile. Stories of lone fruitless trees are common enough. Many types are self fertile and I have seen productive lone trees too.
Aloha Mr Merrill. I bought some white sapote from the store. They are kind of hard and green. How do I know when they are ripe? It's been 5 days since I bought them. They are still kind of rock hard. One has a little give to it but not much.
Are the white Sopote affected by the citrus greening & other diseases which affect citrus family. I'm a back yard fruit grower Not a big production so would you suggest me planting the seeds like these directly in a 4 inch pot as opposed to the little 6 pack seed trays I'm thinking it might reduce transplant shock.
Lucky for me the only citrus diseases I've ever dealt with from CA to HI is citrus canker in HI. For now I have no experience with the greening. Because Sapote and citrus are both in the rutaceae I would worry. I can find nothing on google about this. Try your local AG agent, they may have local knowledge.
Hi Bill, great videos. Particularly enjoyed "Pushing the Envelope..". I'm trying to propagate some "exotics" here in my east bay garden not too far from you, sapote, cherimoya, avocado. Is your sapote still fruiting? if so, would it still be possible to pick up some of your fruit? thanks!
Watching this 11 years down the track. So doubt I will get an answer. I live in the subtropics in Australia. Can I plant the seeds in a warm spot in winter, as I have one ripe fruit just fallen off the tree?
I've grown hundreds of these trees from seed. If it is winter and you do not have a greenhouse try a flower pot on the window sill. Cold will delay or damage germination.
I usually get fruit from Sapote seeds in around 6 years or so. They are fast growing trees. Grafting the seedlings to a name type will speed the process to 3 or 4 years.
Some seeds require scarification and hot water treatment to 180 degrees. Those, I soak. Others I do not because it makes planting difficult and messy. I water the soil with the seed in place.
@@GreenGardenGuy1 ok great I'm in the Caribbean & I ordered some seeds from mainly Florida. The Icecream beans 2 of the 5 came sprouting already planted out all but green & white Sopote has hardish shells also some Cherimoya & Annona Reticula & guava seeds would you plant directly in good well draining potting mix or would you presoak beforehand,
@@geriannroth449 Since i usually work with fresh seed that has the pulp still hanging soaking wouldn't make much sense for me. If you have old, hard, dry seed that is borderline for germination a soak won't hurt. Don't soak more than overnight though. The seeds know what they are doing when planted even if people worry.
The heaviest season of the year seems to be Feb to June. The tree is currently back in the flowering stage with very little fruit. I do have about 80 one gallon pot size Sapote trees growing and I also have some nice 5 gallon Ice Cream Bananas if you are interested. You can get to my phone and email through my business website. green garden service.net There are no spaces but you can't put web addresses in this format
+Ben B. Ben, Generally the removal of seed hulls is not a good practice. We often damage the embryo in the process. I suggest planting the seed and letting it crack the shell by it's self. They do this very well. On occasion I have had the lower half of the seed shell keep the root from getting to the soil. the root will coil in the shell. If this happens then I lift the seedling, pick the shell off and replant them. Glad to hear the seeds got there okay. I had a group of 6 people over last weekend who never tasted Sapote fruit. It is always enjoyable to watch people eat these for the first time.
is it safe to assume that whtie sapote don't grow true from seed? As in particular varieties? I have a vernon white sapote so I assume the best way to propagate it is via cuttings or airlayering
If you want a genetic identical to Vernon you will have to air layer or graft. Grafting is easier and faster. You will need seedlings to use as root stock though if you graft so planting the seeds is essential. I find that white sapote produce trees that are similar to the parent from seed. I have yet to run across a seed grown sapote that came from a good line that had bad fruit. It is also how you end up with new types. Often when planting seeds I end up with progeny that are superior to the parent plant. This is true with subtropicals and tropicals but not so much with temperate crops. Our temperate fruits have been too highly bred to produce true seedlings.
I wish I could help you but I sold the White sapote right along with the California home last May when we moved to Hawaii. Just the other day I looked at a white sapote tree for planting here on the Island but walked away with out it. I have Chico Sapote, Mamey Sapote, Chocolate Sapote and Green Sapote already i the orchard here and I tend to enjoy the first two more than the white.
The Mamey and the Black are very tropical but the chico is claimed to survive in slightly colder location. Even here in Hawaii it is a slow growing beast thought.
I am always willing to let people take seed to grow their own trees from mine. If you want to drop in and collect some you are welcome to. If I have to harvest, clean, & dry or grow then I begin to charge because this is how I make my living. I am not a hobbyist, I make my living from plants. Are you local or distant from San Francisco Bay CA?
The Bay Area is famous for micro climates and most of our yards have different conditions in different locations. If I park my sapote seedlings in the center of my backyard where they are wide open to the sky and winter frosts they will often be damaged by cold. If I park them under the edge of a large avocado tree they stay sheltered and over winter in good shape. Snails eating the leaves over the winter is usually more of a problem than cold.
GreenGardenGuy1 Thanks for the reply, Bill. Do you leave the seedlings outside (albeit under an avocado tree or something) even their first winter after sprouting? Do you bring them in on cold nights even?
cscarnevale I am not a big one for sheltering and pampering plants. Under most circumstances if I place my plants in a good location for the winter I leave then there. On occasion we can have a big freeze here in the Bay Area. If that occurs I will take the trouble to run my tender stuff under the roof of the greenhouse for a few days until the cold snap passes. I do this mostly to protect my investment because I make enough money off of my plant sales to bother reporting to the IRS. If I kill them all off my wallet hurts even more than the trees. Shelter is for emergency action though not for the usual growing program. I prefer to keep plants out in the environment as much as makes sense. If you are worried and own a greenhouse then shelter them for the winter. Just make sure to harden them off before moving them back to the weather.
The conditions of growth dictate the amount of time to fruiting. My tree was 6 years to fruiting, 10 years to large crops and 15 year to the point I needed an end loader to clean up all the produce.
+phantomcreamer Cuttings are very difficult if not impossible to root. If tired I would use bottom heat and mist. The usual means is by grafting to seedlings. It is possible to air layer the trees.
+phantomcreamer According to Julia Morton, Fruits of Warm Climates, cuttings are difficult if not impossible to root. Your changes of rooting them in water as opposed to a medium is greatly reduced though. Cuttings might take if struck with a rooting hormone into a sterile medium and held over 80 degree bottom heat with mist. It's a lot easier just to plant a seed and then place a scion on top when the plant is about pencil sized. hort.purdue.edu/newcrop/morton/white_sapote.html
Seeds know exactly what they are doing, the only luck involved is you actually hit the pot rather than the wall. Too many factors involved around your request to make a good estimate. It depends on the genetics, your skills as an orchard keeper, local soil and climate. In my case, in the Bay Area of CA it usually took me about 6 years from a seed to a light crop of fruit. By year 15 I had to either sell the fruit or compost it because there was too much to deal with. When I sold the property with the tree last year it was producing about 2000 pounds of fruit per year.
I can't actually say that I am on a mission to cover the state in Sapote. Like Johnny Apple seed, who was one of Americas first successful nurserymen, I intend to make a profit from all these seeds. I have an associate who will buy all the fruiting trees I can provide for distribution on Earth Day. Together, you might call the two of us Johnny Sapote.
The White Sapote will produce a decent tree from seeds in most cases. They will not be exactly like the parent but if the seeds come from quality plants most will be pretty good. On the other hand, if you wish to maintain an existing type you will need to graft. The seedlings would be the first step in the process. Once they grow to pencil size you can insert scions from the mother tree with a cleft or whip graft.
how long does it take to get to pencil sized, like 8-12 months?
*Your methods are similar to mine whereas you keep it simple. (you're experienced)*
*I really like the no waste of potting mix, in your multiple pot filling in the tub technique, that's a new one on me, that I'll be using from now on.*
*Thank You!.....(Johnny Sapote)*
*Thumbs Up # 115*
I don't know the exact reason but I find tree seeds germinate better in mass than when planted singly. Aloha
Yes, about 20 years ago when first growing this plant I used to open the seeds first. The results were a bit uneven but the germination dropped by about 20% over uncracked seeds due to embryo damage from the cracking. I found the same was true with macnuts. In those days I would grow 10 or 12 plants. These days I grow hundreds of them and the process of cracking is extra labor with no advantage. Consider the fact that the tree has survived for millions of years without cracking.
Gods creation is amazing, perfection humans can never reach.
@@organicgrow4440 If God exists humans are part of it and every bit as amazing.
This was very fun, thank you!
Glad you enjoyed the show. Aloha
Thanks for the video, very informative. 👍
You're welcome. Hope it helps get the seeds started.
I have been growing the fruit in this 2 months and it is 7-8 inch already. so happy. the reason i am watching this video to know should i cut them now ? to grow more or not? thanks
Are you cutting it to graft it? If so, it must be large enough to handle. Pencil to cigar size is good.
Bill, I planted four grafted varieties last year in Ocala Florida 9a zone. I heard there is a large tree on the University of Florida campus 40 miles north of me. That tree has never fruited. Is the lack of fruiting a cold environment thing or a pollination problem? I purchased four trees two each are different varieties. I planted them semi close together in hope they will help with pollination. However even if I never get fruit they are such beautiful trees.
Zone 9 A Florida should be suitable. Some White Sapote are not self fertile. Stories of lone fruitless trees are common enough. Many types are self fertile and I have seen productive lone trees too.
Right on!
Aloha Mr Merrill. I bought some white sapote from the store. They are kind of hard and green. How do I know when they are ripe? It's been 5 days since I bought them. They are still kind of rock hard. One has a little give to it but not much.
Sapote need to be soft in order to be edible. They should be easy to bruise when ready. If they were too green they will never taste the best.
Are the white Sopote affected by the citrus greening & other diseases which affect citrus family. I'm a back yard fruit grower Not a big production so would you suggest me planting the seeds like these directly in a 4 inch pot as opposed to the little 6 pack seed trays I'm thinking it might reduce transplant shock.
Lucky for me the only citrus diseases I've ever dealt with from CA to HI is citrus canker in HI. For now I have no experience with the greening. Because Sapote and citrus are both in the rutaceae I would worry. I can find nothing on google about this. Try your local AG agent, they may have local knowledge.
I sell the seeds 10 for $10 plus postage. The next crop of fresh seed will be late winter to early spring 2014.
Hi bill, i think you answered the question at the end so you dont have to graft onto the seedling?
Hi Bill, great videos. Particularly enjoyed "Pushing the Envelope..". I'm trying to propagate some "exotics" here in my east bay garden not too far from you, sapote, cherimoya, avocado. Is your sapote still fruiting? if so, would it still be possible to pick up some of your fruit? thanks!
Watching this 11 years down the track. So doubt I will get an answer. I live in the subtropics in Australia. Can I plant the seeds in a warm spot in winter, as I have one ripe fruit just fallen off the tree?
I've grown hundreds of these trees from seed. If it is winter and you do not have a greenhouse try a flower pot on the window sill. Cold will delay or damage germination.
@@GreenGardenGuy1 thanks appreciate.
@@chessman483 You're welcome.
Hi thanks for the info, need to know if seeds will germinate after being planted a week or so of storage, how long does it take to mature? Thanks
I usually get fruit from Sapote seeds in around 6 years or so. They are fast growing trees. Grafting the seedlings to a name type will speed the process to 3 or 4 years.
Have you tried cracking the pits to help the seeds emerge?
Great vid so you won't recommend soaking the seeds first?
Some seeds require scarification and hot water treatment to 180 degrees. Those, I soak. Others I do not because it makes planting difficult and messy. I water the soil with the seed in place.
@@GreenGardenGuy1 ok great I'm in the Caribbean & I ordered some seeds from mainly Florida. The Icecream beans 2 of the 5 came sprouting already planted out all but green & white Sopote has hardish shells also some Cherimoya & Annona Reticula & guava seeds would you plant directly in good well draining potting mix or would you presoak beforehand,
@@geriannroth449 Since i usually work with fresh seed that has the pulp still hanging soaking wouldn't make much sense for me. If you have old, hard, dry seed that is borderline for germination a soak won't hurt. Don't soak more than overnight though. The seeds know what they are doing when planted even if people worry.
The heaviest season of the year seems to be Feb to June. The tree is currently back in the flowering stage with very little fruit. I do have about 80 one gallon pot size Sapote trees growing and I also have some nice 5 gallon Ice Cream Bananas if you are interested. You can get to my phone and email through my business website. green garden service.net There are no spaces but you can't put web addresses in this format
Johnny Sapote Seed?
Thanks Bill! Do i need to remove the shell from the seeds or just try to root them as is?
+Ben B. Ben, Generally the removal of seed hulls is not a good practice. We often damage the embryo in the process. I suggest planting the seed and letting it crack the shell by it's self. They do this very well. On occasion I have had the lower half of the seed shell keep the root from getting to the soil. the root will coil in the shell. If this happens then I lift the seedling, pick the shell off and replant them. Glad to hear the seeds got there okay. I had a group of 6 people over last weekend who never tasted Sapote fruit. It is always enjoyable to watch people eat these for the first time.
is it safe to assume that whtie sapote don't grow true from seed? As in particular varieties? I have a vernon white sapote so I assume the best way to propagate it is via cuttings or airlayering
If you want a genetic identical to Vernon you will have to air layer or graft. Grafting is easier and faster. You will need seedlings to use as root stock though if you graft so planting the seeds is essential. I find that white sapote produce trees that are similar to the parent from seed. I have yet to run across a seed grown sapote that came from a good line that had bad fruit. It is also how you end up with new types. Often when planting seeds I end up with progeny that are superior to the parent plant. This is true with subtropicals and tropicals but not so much with temperate crops. Our temperate fruits have been too highly bred to produce true seedlings.
GreenGardenGuy1 thanks. I'm growing avocado and mango's for their root stock already. just need white sapote seeds now.
I wish I could help you but I sold the White sapote right along with the California home last May when we moved to Hawaii. Just the other day I looked at a white sapote tree for planting here on the Island but walked away with out it. I have Chico Sapote, Mamey Sapote, Chocolate Sapote and Green Sapote already i the orchard here and I tend to enjoy the first two more than the white.
GreenGardenGuy1 the chico, mamey and black are on my list too
The Mamey and the Black are very tropical but the chico is claimed to survive in slightly colder location. Even here in Hawaii it is a slow growing beast thought.
Do you sell these?
+Ben B. Yes, contact me at greengardenservice@yahoo.com
I am always willing to let people take seed to grow their own trees from mine. If you want to drop in and collect some you are welcome to. If I have to harvest, clean, & dry or grow then I begin to charge because this is how I make my living. I am not a hobbyist, I make my living from plants. Are you local or distant from San Francisco Bay CA?
U still offering seeds? If so let me know when?
Im in Sacramento so i can always drive to pick up seeds
Thanks for the great video! Are the seedlings hardy enough to overwinter outside in Fremont at say 6 months or 18 months old?
The Bay Area is famous for micro climates and most of our yards have different conditions in different locations. If I park my sapote seedlings in the center of my backyard where they are wide open to the sky and winter frosts they will often be damaged by cold. If I park them under the edge of a large avocado tree they stay sheltered and over winter in good shape. Snails eating the leaves over the winter is usually more of a problem than cold.
GreenGardenGuy1
Thanks for the reply, Bill. Do you leave the seedlings outside (albeit under an avocado tree or something) even their first winter after sprouting? Do you bring them in on cold nights even?
cscarnevale I am not a big one for sheltering and pampering plants. Under most circumstances if I place my plants in a good location for the winter I leave then there. On occasion we can have a big freeze here in the Bay Area. If that occurs I will take the trouble to run my tender stuff under the roof of the greenhouse for a few days until the cold snap passes. I do this mostly to protect my investment because I make enough money off of my plant sales to bother reporting to the IRS. If I kill them all off my wallet hurts even more than the trees. Shelter is for emergency action though not for the usual growing program. I prefer to keep plants out in the environment as much as makes sense. If you are worried and own a greenhouse then shelter them for the winter. Just make sure to harden them off before moving them back to the weather.
Bill do u sell these sapote seeds. I can't find any here in sw Florida. .....
Yes, I sell seeds. Contact at greengardenservice@yahoo.com
would you be able to give some away?
How many years to fruiting age?
The conditions of growth dictate the amount of time to fruiting. My tree was 6 years to fruiting, 10 years to large crops and 15 year to the point I needed an end loader to clean up all the produce.
Do cuttings work?
+phantomcreamer Cuttings are very difficult if not impossible to root. If tired I would use bottom heat and mist. The usual means is by grafting to seedlings. It is possible to air layer the trees.
GreenGardenGuy1
Thanks, I tried cuttings in water from new growth and they all failed.
+phantomcreamer According to Julia Morton, Fruits of Warm Climates, cuttings are difficult if not impossible to root. Your changes of rooting them in water as opposed to a medium is greatly reduced though. Cuttings might take if struck with a rooting hormone into a sterile medium and held over 80 degree bottom heat with mist. It's a lot easier just to plant a seed and then place a scion on top when the plant is about pencil sized. hort.purdue.edu/newcrop/morton/white_sapote.html
got lucky tossed a seed in a pot and now its sprouting, how long till fruit from seed usually?
Seeds know exactly what they are doing, the only luck involved is you actually hit the pot rather than the wall. Too many factors involved around your request to make a good estimate. It depends on the genetics, your skills as an orchard keeper, local soil and climate. In my case, in the Bay Area of CA it usually took me about 6 years from a seed to a light crop of fruit. By year 15 I had to either sell the fruit or compost it because there was too much to deal with. When I sold the property with the tree last year it was producing about 2000 pounds of fruit per year.