Thanks for making this vid. I've just done the heatshrink trick to my DX21 - it worked a treat. Yesterday I tried just flipping the rubber strip 180 to offset the damaged spots. Initially this seemed to work (testing individual keys) but then I noticed a wierd problem with phantom notes, which only occurs when playing chords. Some googling suggested this could be down to the gaps in the strip no longer lining up with raised features on the board. I noticed the carbon strips come in one-octave lengths under the rubber. I was considering cutting some extra slots to facilitate reversing it, but decided instead to use your trick - glad I did.👍
About your key strip problem. If the heat shrink bodge fails or has other issues, here’s a possible future repair that would also protect the white strip from further damage. If you eBay Mylar patches for kitesurfing you’ll find these round Mylar patches (obviously). They are designed to cover pin holes in wings. They are sticky on one side and quite tough. They come in different sizes. Or you can buy a roll of the stuff and protect the whole strip. Hope this helps, in the future.
I saw a video where you put a 1602A display to a DX21 keyboard. I have a Yamaha DX21 keyboard and the screen does not work, I put the one you indicate 1602A on it and I put a potentiometer on it as you say in your tutorial, however it does not work, the screen only lights up and remains blank and although move the potentiometer does not work, I think the potentiometer is not adequate, could you tell me the model of potentiometer you are using. Thank you very much for the tutorial.
if it lights up, it is already a good news nothing is burnt ; pot is a 5k, i tried and it works very well so maybe you didn't wire well something , i write here how to do this : 1/ you cut the orange wire of the 3rd pin ; 2/ then you solder the orange wire from the lcd to the right pin of 5K pot, 3/ then solder the middle of pot to the orange wire of the machine 4/ BONUS it is not on the video, but you can wire the left pin of pot to the pin16 of lcd ( the ground ) so you can adjust more accurately
Hello, I just repaired my DX7 LCD and replaced the battery, but the boot screen shows Japanese, it feels like there is no sound patch, I tried to transmit syse via MIDI, but it seems that it does not accept the signal, any suggestions?
Would it be possible to install the rubber strip offset, so that the keys fall between the existing wear points instead of on them? obviously if there are any indexing points that might not make it possible and you'd probably have to take a bit off one end which could leave the other end short. The heat shrink internal support was a great idea though, I wouldn't have thought of that. Almost like a haart stent for your keyboard!
it's comon with a lot of synths but I'm now wondering if the synth was stored with stuff pressing heavily on some of the keys . What would explain the heavy localised wear .
hi, i too have a yamaha dx 21 that i bought in 1986, unfortunately the display is gone for me too. I did as you said in your tutorial, I state that I'm a bit of a geek, but not a professional like you, and I didn't understand which colored wires you connect the potentiometer to and what value the potentiometer should have. if you show me the colors of the wires to which you connected the potentiometer maybe I can resurrect my DX21 thanks for your time
Around 13:25 he mentions that on the other repair he used a 2K or 3K resistor ( he actually used a 2.2K resistor). In that video he said it should probably be 3K but he also said 2.2K was great. Personally, it looked a bit washed out around the edges, but that might just be the video. Anyway, get a potentiometer that goes at least to 3K but not much further, otherwise the adjustment will be very finicky. At 16:39 he does say he thinks it’s a 5k pot in line. He also said he put the pot on wire 3 which is brown. BUT.. in the other video it was not on wire 3, it was in line with a power wire, I forget which, but it’s in THAT video. Hope that helps.
Thanks for making this vid. I've just done the heatshrink trick to my DX21 - it worked a treat. Yesterday I tried just flipping the rubber strip 180 to offset the damaged spots. Initially this seemed to work (testing individual keys) but then I noticed a wierd problem with phantom notes, which only occurs when playing chords. Some googling suggested this could be down to the gaps in the strip no longer lining up with raised features on the board. I noticed the carbon strips come in one-octave lengths under the rubber. I was considering cutting some extra slots to facilitate reversing it, but decided instead to use your trick - glad I did.👍
What a great video!!! Nice to see it being given some much needed attention!!!
heya matt . nice to see you here dude :) thanks
About your key strip problem. If the heat shrink bodge fails or has other issues, here’s a possible future repair that would also protect the white strip from further damage. If you eBay Mylar patches for kitesurfing you’ll find these round Mylar patches (obviously). They are designed to cover pin holes in wings. They are sticky on one side and quite tough. They come in different sizes. Or you can buy a roll of the stuff and protect the whole strip. Hope this helps, in the future.
I cannot find your other video on new screen install
I saw a video where you put a 1602A display to a DX21 keyboard. I have a Yamaha DX21 keyboard and the screen does not work, I put the one you indicate 1602A on it and I put a potentiometer on it as you say in your tutorial, however it does not work, the screen only lights up and remains blank and although move the potentiometer does not work, I think the potentiometer is not adequate, could you tell me the model of potentiometer you are using. Thank you very much for the tutorial.
Ciao amico, ma tu hai risolto?
Se sei riuscito,mi mostri come hai fatto?
Non so come collegare il potenziamento
if it lights up, it is already a good news nothing is burnt ; pot is a 5k, i tried and it works very well so maybe you didn't wire well something , i write here how to do this :
1/ you cut the orange wire of the 3rd pin ;
2/ then you solder the orange wire from the lcd to the right pin of 5K pot,
3/ then solder the middle of pot to the orange wire of the machine
4/ BONUS it is not on the video, but you can wire the left pin of pot to the pin16 of lcd ( the ground ) so you can adjust more accurately
Hello, I just repaired my DX7 LCD and replaced the battery, but the boot screen shows Japanese, it feels like there is no sound patch, I tried to transmit syse via MIDI, but it seems that it does not accept the signal, any suggestions?
all procedure here : th-cam.com/video/gJIoFcYF-nU/w-d-xo.html
Hi nice video! Are you do repair at vintage Yamaha keys? Were you located, what country? Thanks
Time is weird as I just thought today I should replace the board in my old broken freebie
Would it be possible to install the rubber strip offset, so that the keys fall between the existing wear points instead of on them? obviously if there are any indexing points that might not make it possible and you'd probably have to take a bit off one end which could leave the other end short. The heat shrink internal support was a great idea though, I wouldn't have thought of that. Almost like a haart stent for your keyboard!
yeah, bit of a ghetto fix but it works
I did the same with the LCD of my dx27 but the screen didn't read anything :( could you help me?
That membrane and strip design is super simple and super cheap. I wonder how long Yamaha expected it to last before it wore out? long enough.
it's comon with a lot of synths but I'm now wondering if the synth was stored with stuff pressing heavily on some of the keys . What would explain the heavy localised wear .
@@8bitmanshed Do not store bricks on your synth. They should probably put that in the manual.
hi, i too have a yamaha dx 21 that i bought in 1986, unfortunately the display is gone for me too.
I did as you said in your tutorial, I state that I'm a bit of a geek, but not a professional like you, and I didn't understand which colored wires you connect the potentiometer to and what value the potentiometer should have.
if you show me the colors of the wires to which you connected the potentiometer maybe I can resurrect
my DX21
thanks for your time
Around 13:25 he mentions that on the other repair he used a 2K or 3K resistor ( he actually used a 2.2K resistor). In that video he said it should probably be 3K but he also said 2.2K was great. Personally, it looked a bit washed out around the edges, but that might just be the video. Anyway, get a potentiometer that goes at least to 3K but not much further, otherwise the adjustment will be very finicky. At 16:39 he does say he thinks it’s a 5k pot in line. He also said he put the pot on wire 3 which is brown. BUT.. in the other video it was not on wire 3, it was in line with a power wire, I forget which, but it’s in THAT video. Hope that helps.
Hi very good video as tutorial, are you do repair an vintage Yamaha keys?were you located? Thanks
18:10 missed opportunity for a "Yamaha Filthy"
I'll just have to get a new one so :)
Dang I got a free dx21 give to me wish I could send it to you to get it fix