Years back i did the same laping tool for a mauser sticky chamber and i thougt might never see someone do it as i did ,.. at that time i didnt knew there was a Mark Novak,,Outstanding!!!
Can't swing a dead cat up here in Canada without hitting an SVT or three.... I'm sure it is buried in the comments, but you don't need to loosen the gas tube to change the gas setting - yes, there is a tool , yes they are incredibly rare, yes there are reproductions (that tool BTW also is the wrench for the gas system, you can field strip with a cartridge, detail strip with the tool). Just turn the gas nut in the same direction (using the tool) as the threads on the tube & it won't back out. I really don't know if the average Ivan was issued the tool, hard to say. Cases mostly stick in those things because of the lacquer used on the steel cases and the gas system being set up wrong - too hot and it rips case heads off. You (we Canadians ;) ) learn to carry a case extractor - just drop it in, let the bolt slam shut on it, drop another case through the hole in the bolt handle and YANK HARD.
It's really cool to witness you learning the way the gun works, and to have you show it to us without trying to pretend that you already knew everything beforehand.
4:00 Here's how you take the rear dust cover on and off very easily: Push the top cover and recoil spring all the way forward, then put a 54R cartridge (or similar) in between the back of the receiver and the guide rod (which has a concave rear to catch the cartridge tip). This will hold the spring, allowing you to take off the top cover. Reverse the process to reinstall it just as easily!
I had the same problem on my son's rifle; the bolt had pulled the case head completely off and he get forgetting to bring it to me for about 2 years. That actually worked to our benefit because by the time he got it to me, I had stumbled across an old Russian military issue, 7.62x54R cleaning kit with an old stuck cartridge case remover. It's in 2 pieces and goes in through the camber end and you screw/tighten the 2 pieces together. The "bullet end" of the remover is bullet shaped but its partitioned so that tightening causes the bullet end to expand which causes a tiny ledge to evenly engage the lip on the case mouth. Then simply put the Issue Cleaning Rod through from the muzzle and tap it all out through the chamber. Its quick and simple and it minimizes any danger of damaging the chamber. I checked the chamber afterwards and it was free of major damage but I did polish the chamber a bit to get rid of some perpendicular microscopic scratches that may have caused the problem in the first place. No trouble since then!
Mark, one of the things i love about your videos is how you solve problems! I don't know if they're typical trade techniques but it really helps to show there's a lot of ingenious ways to handle things.
@ 12:00 Mark, you are one of the few people I have ever heard mention using a double boiler to heat a low melt alloy. I use cerrobend (159) at work and for the last ten years I have used a double boiler to keep from overheating the alloy. In our particular application the danger of overheated metal is that it causes an electrical short in the cable. Since I started using the double boiler approach I haven't had any issues with melted insulation.
For the setting on the gas piston from one Russian shooter. 1.2 - Brass and hot weather 1.3 - Brass and room temperature 1.5 - Standard (bi-metal, brass ammo) 1.7 - Is either cold weather or dirty gun He also mentioned that 1.5 and 1.7 are typically winter settings.
I bought my SVT in 1997. I went to the range, loaded a stripper clip and took a single shot, the fired case stuck and wouldn't extract. I managed to get it out but I never fired it again. Now, after 23 years I'm going to fix that problem thanks to watching what you did. PS .... Mine came with a tool kit and one of them happens to be a shell extractor for the issue the one you had where it ripped off the base with the extractor, seems this was a fairly common issue.
Sir i have to say at 60 now i still love watching a person that knows what he is doing no matter what it is still learning at 60 great work Thank you for your time been nice watching , and they say a old dog cant learn new tricks well i have here in the back woods of Ky
Surprised it wasn't mentioned that this was a Finnish capture. Finn SVT's came into the US decades earlier than the early 90's import Russian post war refurbs, and many of the Finn's were absolutely beat to hell. The Finn's used them very hard, got what they could out of them, and tossed them into storage after the war. They didn't make any spare parts so they are almost universally mixmasters, and it's not unheard of for sears and other parts to be seriously worn. It's entirely possible that much of the wear and damage was there even before this owner got to it. Also the "2" marking on the gas regulator is a Finnish modification to help make the rifles work with their ammo in their environment. They bored out the original Russian 1.1 setting and overstamped a 2 on it. This gun is shockingly elegant and fragile for a Russian weapon, and illiterate conscripts didn't know what to do with it. It seems German and Finnish soldiers really quite liked the gun though. I think it says something that of all the wartime pictures of SVT's being fielded the majority are in German or Finnish hands.
I have both a Garand and an SVT40 and I find it interesting to see how two different designers conceptualized solutions to the problems inherent in trying to make a semi auto rifle that shoots a full power rifle cartridge. The SKS is in many ways a somewhat simplified SVT40 scaled down to shoot an intermediate cartridge. Simonov sure did like the tilting bolt concept for his firearm designs. Like the Garand, the SVT40 is fun to shoot and once you get the gas system adjusted to the ammo you are using, they are pleasant to shoot. Great video as always! I especially like your illustrated description on how the gas system works on a SVT40.
Damn Mark, that's one of my bucket list guns! On a more serious note: you can see quite clearly where the SKS came from in this gun. The biggest departure is the gas system, which I suspect Simonov cribbed from Kalashnikov (or maybe Kalashnikov cribbed it from him). Really the SKS is very AK like from the gas block forward. It'd be interesting to see a detailed comparison (and by that I mean full teardowns) between this gun, the SKS, the AVS-36 (Simonov's original full auto design) the SVT-38 (Tokarev's original semiauto conversion/simplification), and Simonov's semiauto antitank guns that immediately preceded the SKS.
@@ironhead2008 yes, the svt40 has a short stroke gas system, the operating rod is not attached to the bolt/carrier but just pushes against it. The entire op rod only has about 1" of travel.
SVT 40 breaking the 1000 dollar barrier. I remember 350 dollars got a really good one back in the day. Really fun rifle to shoot. Thanks Mark for sharing this with us, I actually learned a few things here.
Even in Canada where as you may know, they imported a bunch not too long ago, I hear prices are getting near that... Were around $350-$450 as I recall when they first hit. I love my 1941 Tula SVT-40 A LOT, even as a Soviet refurb, unlike it appears the one shown here... Probably a Fin capture: White bolt, no refurb mark I could see (square stamp) on the top receiver flat, near the chamber.
In Canada: When I bought my SKS, the same importer had SVTs. The SKS was 160$, the SVT was 180$. I didn't buy the SVT because the range I used at the time didn't allow muzzle devices (we shot from indoors through sliding windows onto an exterior range). I STILL regret not buying one when they were cheap, they run 1000-1500$ here nowadays. Meanwhile my SKS is still a 160$ gun.
I think Mark may have hit on something I've never seen explained before. One of the problems with the SVT-40 as a sniper rifle was that the first round tended to have a fair amount of randomness to where it went. Really bad when you may have one shot, and don't know where it will go. I've read about it in more than one source, but I've never read an explanation as to why and that bugs me - there has to be a "why". I think Mark's description of how little contact there is between the stock and the action may be the answer. The rifle spends most of its life being carried, slung. propped against stuff, etc. then it's suddenly called on to be precise. My thought is that with so little contact between the stock and action, there's a lot of room for randomization before shot #1 is fired. I'm not a gunsmith, so if you think I'm wrong, please explain..
Russians would put wood wedges in between the stock n receivers to stiffen them up because they would wiggle around in there, have 2 svt40s myself 1 with scope rails, payed 250 Canadian for them bout 8 yrs ago
I want to take a moment and thank you for the deep dive close up of the gas key and how it works. My SVT40's was loose and spinning around and I haven't, up till now, found anywhere that adequately explained how it worked.
This was so pleasant to watch. Mark is such a charming guy. His work is stellar and his commentary is always interesting and unique. Thank you for always making me happy, especially as the world is burning.
Mark, thanks for making these videos. As a hobbyist myself I appreciate all the fine level of detail you go into when making these. Keep up the good work.
Love the videos. I had a pre 64 Winchester 94 30-30 that I bought at a lawn sale back in the 80s when you could find and buy guns at lawn sales before the commies took over here in NY had the same issue had a stuck case with a missing head. I was like 14 at the time not knowing anything about Cerosafe my grandfather poured the gun full of lead and then drove the case out, he cleaned the bore out and then took a brand new shell pulled the projectile dumped the powder then fired the primer in another gun then he ran a dowel rod through the barrel pushing it into the case then coated the case with valve lapping compound and went to town on the chamber. It ended up being a great gun with no malfunctions still hunt with it today it was the best 40 dollars I ever spent.
nice seeing an ailing svt get some much needed love. yeah, doctrine called for svts called for them to be issued to ncos corp. or higher since it was felt they would likely be better equipped to understand the needs of the weapon. love mine. the only problem ive had with it. from the day i got it freshly factory refurbished, the cleaning rod walks out down the barrel until im worried its going to take bullet hits. the locking button isnt loose at all. when its in and clicked i can lift the entire weight of the firearm by it and shake vigorously and it will not come out. however, every time i shoot it the rod walks its way out. last time i shot it it was having difficulty feeding some round nosed ammo i had. never had any problems with spitzer though. its only other occasional vice is stove piping.
Awesome video. I learned more about the SVT from this than anything I've seen before. I wish more time would have been spent on that hand guard repair though. I have a couple rifles that need similar repairs and would have liked to see exactly how it was done.
A video I have been waiting for! I have an SVT-40 that I acquired a while back and have been refurbishing. It came to me missing every spring, the muzzle key, and the bolt. Numrich was able to supply the parts needed, but it required quite a bit of hand fitting to get everything to fit right. The bolt was teh biggest issue - it was about 1/20th of an inch too long. I filed the back end until it would lock up correctly. After test firing it (with a long string) it doesn't cycle. I have to mortar it to get it open. The casing don't show any problems when I get them out - other than the nice fluted chamber stripes. I'll get in there and clean and polish to see if that works. I am glad to see someone digging inside and really looking at the guts of one of these.
Idiot check: Is the gas port open and flowing gas? If so, I'd guess that you're loosing too much gas around the piston. Does your gas piston have a ring on it?
You bring this to a whole new level man. All these surplus guns I have I'm taking a better look at. And man I wish I could preserve your knowledge for years to come
Now that you briefly showed the 1895 Winchester hanging around you just GOT TO make a video of it! I've had few and really like them! The one i have now is rechambered to 9.3x53R to be a perfect moose gun :)
That gas key trick works for a while: but all you did was swell the metal of the gasket head so it fit the piston better. That'll wear down fairly quickly because it's really only the edge of the head which was expanded. A slightly more intensive, but still fairly easy process which would offer a far more permanent solution would be to true that piece up then friction fit a small steel o-ring sleeve onto it by heating it up and letting it cool-friction-fit onto it. Then turn that down to near 1-to-1 fit with the gas tube which fits around it. That would provide a proper seal and take forever and a day for metal on metal contact to wear down.
@kilroy washere *Car guy 1:* puts out video about restoring original '65 mustang and having to repair original parts to get car working *Car guy 2:* describes different way to restore original part to get car working *You:* "can't you just buy a new one?" - suggesting simply throwing away the original part to replace it with yet another part which is in better condition _rather than_ repairing and restoring the original part *Car guy 2:* [long sigh]
You might ought to read Yuri Yakovlev`s comment down there. Here`s what he said: "Dear Mr. Novak! The fact that you managed to remove the valve together with the return spring indicates a malfunction of your SVT. Tokarev foresaw the impossibility of such manipulation. You have a faulty shutter or receiver. This is very dangerous, as sooner or later the bolt will fly out and the shooter may be injured!"
The SVT40 looks so cool with all the vents, slots & ports, i had to get one in about 2001 for $250, in what must be rebuilt cond. Bluing is great wood is shiny, it came with sight tool, sling, ammo pouch. i found a bayo also that cost about what the rifle cost. Even have a broken shell extracter just in case.😊😊
Wow... I just discovered this... and I find this really amazing... You took gun repair and turned it on its head for me.. I never would of known what to do with a stuck case that had a torn head, and then you me out of all the solutions I might of though of, and showed me yet another method that worked most perfectly. I also like the fact you go with paths of least resistance.. All too often people put a great deal of work thinking work will insure success, and its just now always the case.. Especially if you never tried technique before. And then... if you can answer a problem with the same tool comes the danger where you pigeon hole yourself by always using the same tool to answer all problems. That said.. I understand there must be alot of effort put into ever technique you have done and realize that is why you put a disclaimer at the front of your video. In any case, I really am enjoying this channels narrative and hope to see more tools of your arsenal of knowledge.
The piston has to be tightened with the wrench that comes with the tool kit, it has a square cutout that matches the square shoulder on the piston.The end of the wrench has a cutout that matches the five sided adjustment on the gas regulator. I found that if i didnt tighten the piston sufficiently, the regulator would rotate from the desired setting and that would cause cycling issues. Original tool kits are readily available on ebay, and the wrench is available separately on ebay as well.
It would be advisable to have the end of the gas piston hard chromed. That way you could machine it to the desired diameter and it would be a lot more durable. No guarantee of the condition of replacement pistons considering they are 80 years old.
Nice video. Interesting at 4:19 how the trigger group is removed... The tab on my refurbished SVT-40 is MUCH harder to turn, and removal of the group is done by inserting a 7.62x54R cartridges nose into the rear of the tab hole, and pushing firmly... Pop, and now the TG is unlocked for removal. I wonder since it appears this rifle is a Finnish capture (white bolt, no refurb mark on the top square receiver flat near the chamber) that the components are so worn, that as you show is possible? BTW, you used to be able to buy the gas regulator wrench pretty cheaply, and now most are $$$ repos. Shame too it seems so may are seen with "sewer pipe' quality barrels, but will also say mine to this day could collapse world copper spot values, if I ever sold what it keeps returning.
Clearly a Master of his trade at work! Really liked the way he analysed his options, thought them through and then acted on his best option… Measure seven times, cut once!
Spectacular brother proper job i picked one of these for $75 🤗🤗 crazy i did not know what i got and the seller did not know what he had he told me it was a sks nope not one of those he did not take care of it now it falls to me i need to learn as much as possible about the svt40 1943 thank you brother for your knowledge and expertise and for sharing your videos i hope to keep you informed on my progress
I bought one in 1970. I fixed a crack in the stock wrist, but then it just sat until I got married. Sold it because I needed the money. Bought and sold for $100, if I remember. I never fired it. I saw it about 40 years later at a gun show. I think they were asking about $750.
I'm fortunate to have bought a crate of these back in 2012. In Canada the SVT 40's, SKS's and Mosin Nagants were super cheap, the market was flooded with them. Other than the SKS's all others were refurbished in a post war make work project, some lighter then others. The SVT-40's are probably my favorite. Great video!
Dobra, iz gud. Excellent video, most informative and entertaining. Looking at the gas control system brings the Fabrique Nationale FAL to mind. The SVT appears to be the early forebear of the FN system.
All very good info, especially in how to lap the chamber! On my own SVT it's been too prone to cases sticking in the chamber and I'm now wary of taking it out anymore. This is just the info I needed for working on and inspecting the gas system as well.
From what I have been told the WW2 Soviets machining was a bit rough and some SVT chambers weren't the best. They were more interested in huge numbers of working weapons. So lapping the chamber should help. Also check to see if extractor 'Claws' and/or spring are worn
Woaah, mine is made in 1940 and the gas regulator says 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.5 and 1.7. Not 2! And this one does not look like a refurb, bolt is not plum color, mine is. Though I have an original spare gas regulator and it says Roman I I instead of 1.1, but the contraperture looks smaller than 1.2! Works on surp reliably 1.2 at summer and 1.3 at winter. On Barnaul it is good 1.1 at summer 1.2 at winter. Stovepipes heavy loads at 1.3 summertime. Love to Mark, Othias, Bruno, Mae and to all you guys, Yevgen from Ukraine.
What's funny is that the US had the long-stroke gas piston M1 while Russia had the short stroke SVT40. But then afterwards Russia adopted the long stroke AK, and the west (mostly) adopted short stroke systems (AUG, G36, SCAR, FAL, HK416)
What an amazingly beautiful rifle. I am so glad that it was refurbished and conserved so that it can be shot for another 100 years...provided that it is properly maintained.
Thanks for the video Mark. I have an SVT40, its the most expensive gun I own. It is in great shape, and of course when I bought it the first thing I did was take it completely apart (except for the staked pins in FCG) so I could learn how it works. These rifles scream "art deco" to me, they are sexy machines. My biggest issue with the rifle is that it vertically strings like a mofo. The first round hits where you aim it, then after that it goes up and up! I tried using some gasket material under the handguard to put downward pressure on the barrel but it was no help. I guess it is what it is? These things have pencil barrels and quite thin receivers.
Agree... It is almost shocking to see how thin the barrels are, and like your rifle, mine strings/scatters too... At least all I feed her are my own non-corrosive handloads, so clean-up is not so bad. Another thing that strikes you, if you have never handled one is how light they feel, for their size... On top of what we have discussed, the wood is a very light species (Artic Birch or some sort IIRC), and the refurbs like mine got the full auto stocks, leftover from full-auto AVT-40's and so marked... Has the second notch near the safety, where you swing it opposite for full auto. Also supposed to be a beefier design, to rectify issues with cracking.
Just watched AGAIN, Mark. Partly because I own one, and mostly because it's an awesome video! Wish I could give you another Thumbs Up. Merry Christmas and a Happy (hopefully better) New Year!!
@@marknovak8255 Ive had a similar issue with a 1917 that had a nick in the chamber. I had to beat the daylights out of it to get it out. Thanks for the reply!
The K43's gas system is a direct copy of the SVT-40. The German Army (Whermacht) had forbidden any semi-auto design that tapped gas from the barrel, so Walther and Mauser had to go through all sorts of dances to get a semi-auto 8mm working with other methods, meanwhile the Soviets were kicking their ass with the SVT-40. The SVT had a lot of parts for Russian conscripts, but the Germans loved them. Walther finally copied the gas and recoil system, pairing it with their locking lug design on the G43, later K43. Apparently Walther filed for a patent on Tokarev's design.
Thanks so much Mark for making this video! I bought one about 4 years ago and love seeing videos on this often forgetten rifle. I never played with the gas key because I thought I needed the super rare tool, but I'll just tap it out with a hammer. Fortunately the gun runs fine on the gas setting it came with but it's definitely good to know!
Lyudmila Pavlichenko , the top female soviet sniper was given one of these , she hated it and went back to her Mosin Nagant 3 line . Good video with simple effective solutions . Tough guns that will take a fair bit of abuse , simple and reliable
Forgotten Weapons and Mishaco have good videos on these. The pre-1942 sniper models were equipped with a rail for a PU scope, but apparently the receiver is just not stable enough for precision, so they stopped making them. In practice, it's a full-powered battle rifle that is really most effective at about the same range as an intermediate-cartridge rifle. No doubt this influenced the Soviet decisions to keep making the Mosin Nagant, and to issue more submachine guns.
I'm filing away the Cerro case removal and chamber lap technique. Looks like they could save a few firearms with sticky chambers without having to go to bumping it with a reamer or using a brush on a drill. I feel like the brush on a drill just is a little too aggressive and can create its own problems. As far as the stock problems, do you ever use Ishapore screws along with Acraglass to reinforce wrists that are splitting due to over-oiling or excessive recoil? If it's not a historical piece I think they can add some great mechanical clamping force without trashing the appearance.
@@marknovak8255 I have an SVT-40 that I have to mortar to open after firing. I was thinking about trying your technique, however, the spent casings I have won't rechamber. They stop with about 1/4 inch left out. Am I missing something?
Start low and work higher for the gas settings to cycle reliably. And they were designed for the light ball ammo. Just things to keep in mind. I've had 4 and I've never had an issue. Love them. Enjoy the muzzle side blast
There is a gas adjustment wrench, I have one. One was very simple, a pentagonal slot for the gas adjustment and a square end to tighten the other thing that tightens the adjuster in. You adjust the gas while the rifle is all together. The other tool includes those two and also some kind of oval opening that helps take off the handguard, or muzzle brake or something like that anyways.
oh look............some bubba was shooting corrosive 7.62x54R and didnt know about cleaning out the corrosive salts that get left behind in the barrel and gas system.
@ 25:07 Rather than hammering the piece to have it mushroom, or machining a new one , It would be instructive to see electroplating used to bring up the dimensions of worn parts.
@32.30 'If you weren't one of the smarter guys in your unit...', I agree with you completely. I bet the majority of the events of poor reliability were a direct result of the soldiers either not cleaning/maintaining or setting the gas system correctly. When are we going to see more about the half Japanese, half Winchester rifle? Oh and definitely the Boyes! Great video! Take Care and be safe, John
This is a great video. I converted the gas regulator ports to inches as a reference for those that are used to dealing with gas regulators in adjustable gas systems: 2mm = .0787 1.7mm = .067 1.5mm = .059 1.3mm = .051 1.2mm = .047
It is so cool to be able to watch someone who KNOWS so much and wants to SHARE that knowledge. Thanks Mark!!!
Great comment
Yeah he's good,if I needed some gun tlc I'd be happy to send it to him ✌️
Years back i did the same laping tool for a mauser sticky chamber and i thougt might never see someone do it as i did ,.. at that time i didnt knew there was a Mark Novak,,Outstanding!!!
Can't swing a dead cat up here in Canada without hitting an SVT or three.... I'm sure it is buried in the comments, but you don't need to loosen the gas tube to change the gas setting - yes, there is a tool , yes they are incredibly rare, yes there are reproductions (that tool BTW also is the wrench for the gas system, you can field strip with a cartridge, detail strip with the tool). Just turn the gas nut in the same direction (using the tool) as the threads on the tube & it won't back out. I really don't know if the average Ivan was issued the tool, hard to say.
Cases mostly stick in those things because of the lacquer used on the steel cases and the gas system being set up wrong - too hot and it rips case heads off. You (we Canadians ;) ) learn to carry a case extractor - just drop it in, let the bolt slam shut on it, drop another case through the hole in the bolt handle and YANK HARD.
"as with most things Russian, this is simple and yet it's not."
as a Russian, I couldn't agree more.
From those of us that have "scrubbed the pi**" out of old gas systems and cruddy chambers, we salute you. Your humor, sir, is refreshing.
I scrubbed a few FN C1 & C2 gas pistons in my time in the CAF. (1980's)
It's really cool to witness you learning the way the gun works, and to have you show it to us without trying to pretend that you already knew everything beforehand.
4:00 Here's how you take the rear dust cover on and off very easily:
Push the top cover and recoil spring all the way forward, then put a 54R cartridge (or similar) in between the back of the receiver and the guide rod (which has a concave rear to catch the cartridge tip). This will hold the spring, allowing you to take off the top cover. Reverse the process to reinstall it just as easily!
I had the same problem on my son's rifle; the bolt had pulled the case head completely off and he get forgetting to bring it to me for about 2 years. That actually worked to our benefit because by the time he got it to me, I had stumbled across an old Russian military issue, 7.62x54R cleaning kit with an old stuck cartridge case remover. It's in 2 pieces and goes in through the camber end and you screw/tighten the 2 pieces together. The "bullet end" of the remover is bullet shaped but its partitioned so that tightening causes the bullet end to expand which causes a tiny ledge to evenly engage the lip on the case mouth. Then simply put the Issue Cleaning Rod through from the muzzle and tap it all out through the chamber. Its quick and simple and it minimizes any danger of damaging the chamber. I checked the chamber afterwards and it was free of major damage but I did polish the chamber a bit to get rid of some perpendicular microscopic scratches that may have caused the problem in the first place. No trouble since then!
Thats the tool I was referring to....but this job was WAY beyond that
Props to the extractor on that for ripping the entire case head off a steel cased 7.62x54R 😂 that must take a mental level of force!
Mark, one of the things i love about your videos is how you solve problems! I don't know if they're typical trade techniques but it really helps to show there's a lot of ingenious ways to handle things.
@ 12:00 Mark, you are one of the few people I have ever heard mention using a double boiler to heat a low melt alloy. I use cerrobend (159) at work and for the last ten years I have used a double boiler to keep from overheating the alloy. In our particular application the danger of overheated metal is that it causes an electrical short in the cable. Since I started using the double boiler approach I haven't had any issues with melted insulation.
It's also great for making soup, preferably before you use it to heat alloy.
Is it a coincidence that Mark posted an Anvil twenty minutes after I finished working on my Webley? Probably, but I choose to believe otherwise.
one should not visit you tube just before heading to bed. Never know when a new Vid by Mr. Novak will appear.
Oh well, the bed can wait.
For the setting on the gas piston from one Russian shooter.
1.2 - Brass and hot weather
1.3 - Brass and room temperature
1.5 - Standard (bi-metal, brass ammo)
1.7 - Is either cold weather or dirty gun
He also mentioned that 1.5 and 1.7 are typically winter settings.
I bought my SVT in 1997. I went to the range, loaded a stripper clip and took a single shot, the fired case stuck and wouldn't extract. I managed to get it out but I never fired it again. Now, after 23 years I'm going to fix that problem thanks to watching what you did. PS .... Mine came with a tool kit and one of them happens to be a shell extractor for the issue the one you had where it ripped off the base with the extractor, seems this was a fairly common issue.
Sir i have to say at 60 now i still love watching a person that knows what he is doing no matter what it is still learning at 60 great work Thank you for your time been nice watching , and they say a old dog cant learn new tricks well i have here in the back woods of Ky
Always love your work Mark! It's a dream to watch such skill and natural care taking care of a firearm.
The cheesy Russian accent was the cherry on the sundae. Thanks, Mark, for another fine episode.
Yeah that gave me a cheesey grin.
@Millard Labate @Jeremy Kenneth nice to see the scam sock puppet accounts here. Both joined TH-cam one month ago, seems legit 🤔😂😭
Surprised it wasn't mentioned that this was a Finnish capture. Finn SVT's came into the US decades earlier than the early 90's import Russian post war refurbs, and many of the Finn's were absolutely beat to hell. The Finn's used them very hard, got what they could out of them, and tossed them into storage after the war. They didn't make any spare parts so they are almost universally mixmasters, and it's not unheard of for sears and other parts to be seriously worn. It's entirely possible that much of the wear and damage was there even before this owner got to it.
Also the "2" marking on the gas regulator is a Finnish modification to help make the rifles work with their ammo in their environment. They bored out the original Russian 1.1 setting and overstamped a 2 on it.
This gun is shockingly elegant and fragile for a Russian weapon, and illiterate conscripts didn't know what to do with it. It seems German and Finnish soldiers really quite liked the gun though. I think it says something that of all the wartime pictures of SVT's being fielded the majority are in German or Finnish hands.
I have both a Garand and an SVT40 and I find it interesting to see how two different designers conceptualized solutions to the problems inherent in trying to make a semi auto rifle that shoots a full power rifle cartridge. The SKS is in many ways a somewhat simplified SVT40 scaled down to shoot an intermediate cartridge. Simonov sure did like the tilting bolt concept for his firearm designs. Like the Garand, the SVT40 is fun to shoot and once you get the gas system adjusted to the ammo you are using, they are pleasant to shoot. Great video as always! I especially like your illustrated description on how the gas system works on a SVT40.
the SKS is a scaled down PTRS
Damn Mark, that's one of my bucket list guns! On a more serious note: you can see quite clearly where the SKS came from in this gun. The biggest departure is the gas system, which I suspect Simonov cribbed from Kalashnikov (or maybe Kalashnikov cribbed it from him). Really the SKS is very AK like from the gas block forward. It'd be interesting to see a detailed comparison (and by that I mean full teardowns) between this gun, the SKS, the AVS-36 (Simonov's original full auto design) the SVT-38 (Tokarev's original semiauto conversion/simplification), and Simonov's semiauto antitank guns that immediately preceded the SKS.
you mean the gas block is similar to the AK, right?
Wobben Buffet that’s what he said
@AlabamaAfghan I think the SVT is a short stroke system, too. At least I've always seen the SVTs gas system referred to as such.
@@ironhead2008 yes, the svt40 has a short stroke gas system, the operating rod is not attached to the bolt/carrier but just pushes against it. The entire op rod only has about 1" of travel.
Sir ,you're videos are like tonic in trying times. THANK You
Congrats on getting this old war dog back in service!
This is the most clear video on the SVT-40 gas adjustment system. Answered my question for me.
SVT 40 breaking the 1000 dollar barrier. I remember 350 dollars got a really good one back in the day. Really fun rifle to shoot. Thanks Mark for sharing this with us, I actually learned a few things here.
Way more than that at the current market on most places
Saw a SVT 38 at the local class 3 FFL, looked at it, $3000 FUCK THAT but to be fare they charge $2000 for a garand
@@andrewschulze3865 ouch!
I paid $1k for mine, and that was 12? years ago.
Even in Canada where as you may know, they imported a bunch not too long ago, I hear prices are getting near that... Were around $350-$450 as I recall when they first hit. I love my 1941 Tula SVT-40 A LOT, even as a Soviet refurb, unlike it appears the one shown here... Probably a Fin capture: White bolt, no refurb mark I could see (square stamp) on the top receiver flat, near the chamber.
You find one for a grand let me know
In Canada: When I bought my SKS, the same importer had SVTs. The SKS was 160$, the SVT was 180$. I didn't buy the SVT because the range I used at the time didn't allow muzzle devices (we shot from indoors through sliding windows onto an exterior range). I STILL regret not buying one when they were cheap, they run 1000-1500$ here nowadays. Meanwhile my SKS is still a 160$ gun.
Lucky. SKS is about $550 US dollars for a decent rifle with matching numbers here in the states.
That's a genius way to lap the chamber!
I watched this again because your explanations are so crisp and clear I can "see" what you are describing in my mind. You are an expert.
I think Mark may have hit on something I've never seen explained before. One of the problems with the SVT-40 as a sniper rifle was that the first round tended to have a fair amount of randomness to where it went. Really bad when you may have one shot, and don't know where it will go. I've read about it in more than one source, but I've never read an explanation as to why and that bugs me - there has to be a "why". I think Mark's description of how little contact there is between the stock and the action may be the answer. The rifle spends most of its life being carried, slung. propped against stuff, etc. then it's suddenly called on to be precise. My thought is that with so little contact between the stock and action, there's a lot of room for randomization before shot #1 is fired. I'm not a gunsmith, so if you think I'm wrong, please explain..
Russians would put wood wedges in between the stock n receivers to stiffen them up because they would wiggle around in there, have 2 svt40s myself 1 with scope rails, payed 250 Canadian for them bout 8 yrs ago
I want to take a moment and thank you for the deep dive close up of the gas key and how it works. My SVT40's was loose and spinning around and I haven't, up till now, found anywhere that adequately explained how it worked.
This was so pleasant to watch. Mark is such a charming guy. His work is stellar and his commentary is always interesting and unique. Thank you for always making me happy, especially as the world is burning.
The trick with the light and the chamber/bore was awesome!
Mark, thanks for making these videos. As a hobbyist myself I appreciate all the fine level of detail you go into when making these. Keep up the good work.
I always learn something new watching Anvil.
1099 Deus Vult that is why I love watching this.
Right ? Crocus cloth …….Who knew …..?
Love the videos. I had a pre 64 Winchester 94 30-30 that I bought at a lawn sale back in the 80s when you could find and buy guns at lawn sales before the commies took over here in NY had the same issue had a stuck case with a missing head. I was like 14 at the time not knowing anything about Cerosafe my grandfather poured the gun full of lead and then drove the case out, he cleaned the bore out and then took a brand new shell pulled the projectile dumped the powder then fired the primer in another gun then he ran a dowel rod through the barrel pushing it into the case then coated the case with valve lapping compound and went to town on the chamber. It ended up being a great gun with no malfunctions still hunt with it today it was the best 40 dollars I ever spent.
nice seeing an ailing svt get some much needed love.
yeah, doctrine called for svts called for them to be issued to ncos corp. or higher since it was felt they would likely be better equipped to understand the needs of the weapon.
love mine. the only problem ive had with it. from the day i got it freshly factory refurbished, the cleaning rod walks out down the barrel until im worried its going to take bullet hits. the locking button isnt loose at all. when its in and clicked i can lift the entire weight of the firearm by it and shake vigorously and it will not come out. however, every time i shoot it the rod walks its way out.
last time i shot it it was having difficulty feeding some round nosed ammo i had. never had any problems with spitzer though. its only other occasional vice is stove piping.
Awesome video. I learned more about the SVT from this than anything I've seen before. I wish more time would have been spent on that hand guard repair though. I have a couple rifles that need similar repairs and would have liked to see exactly how it was done.
A video I have been waiting for! I have an SVT-40 that I acquired a while back and have been refurbishing. It came to me missing every spring, the muzzle key, and the bolt. Numrich was able to supply the parts needed, but it required quite a bit of hand fitting to get everything to fit right. The bolt was teh biggest issue - it was about 1/20th of an inch too long. I filed the back end until it would lock up correctly.
After test firing it (with a long string) it doesn't cycle. I have to mortar it to get it open. The casing don't show any problems when I get them out - other than the nice fluted chamber stripes. I'll get in there and clean and polish to see if that works.
I am glad to see someone digging inside and really looking at the guts of one of these.
Idiot check: Is the gas port open and flowing gas?
If so, I'd guess that you're loosing too much gas around the piston. Does your gas piston have a ring on it?
You bring this to a whole new level man. All these surplus guns I have I'm taking a better look at. And man I wish I could preserve your knowledge for years to come
Now that you briefly showed the 1895 Winchester hanging around you just GOT TO make a video of it! I've had few and really like them! The one i have now is rechambered to 9.3x53R to be a perfect moose gun :)
An implement to remove a stuck casing in Dutch is called a "weduwe bevrediger", or "widow satisfier"...
I love Dutch sometimes
man, locking the bolt forwards by slapping the stock was a swagger move.
That gas key trick works for a while: but all you did was swell the metal of the gasket head so it fit the piston better. That'll wear down fairly quickly because it's really only the edge of the head which was expanded. A slightly more intensive, but still fairly easy process which would offer a far more permanent solution would be to true that piece up then friction fit a small steel o-ring sleeve onto it by heating it up and letting it cool-friction-fit onto it. Then turn that down to near 1-to-1 fit with the gas tube which fits around it. That would provide a proper seal and take forever and a day for metal on metal contact to wear down.
@kilroy washere
*Car guy 1:* puts out video about restoring original '65 mustang and having to repair original parts to get car working
*Car guy 2:* describes different way to restore original part to get car working
*You:* "can't you just buy a new one?" - suggesting simply throwing away the original part to replace it with yet another part which is in better condition _rather than_ repairing and restoring the original part
*Car guy 2:* [long sigh]
Love the refurb/conservation videos. You do outstanding work Sir, cant wait for the next one.
Even as some one with limited access to firearms, Australian. I'm still very entertained with your creative problem solving. Good job Mark.
Mark, I know you can't do it but I could watch a new video of yours every day. Thanks
You might ought to read Yuri Yakovlev`s comment down there. Here`s what he said: "Dear Mr. Novak! The fact that you managed to remove the valve together with the return spring indicates a malfunction of your SVT. Tokarev foresaw the impossibility of such manipulation. You have a faulty shutter or receiver. This is very dangerous, as sooner or later the bolt will fly out and the shooter may be injured!"
The SVT40 looks so cool with all the vents, slots & ports, i had to get one in about 2001 for $250, in what must be rebuilt cond. Bluing is great wood is shiny, it came with sight tool, sling, ammo pouch. i found a bayo also that cost about what the rifle cost. Even have a broken shell extracter just in case.😊😊
the stock smack to close the bolt made me smile and I had to immediately go and try it myself
that chamber camera view was kickass
Truly my favorite channel. Thank you Mark and all who put this together.
You are welcome, for the extended team
Another wonderful deconstruction. Your matter-of-fact manner makes the information very relaxing.
Always a good day when I see a new Anvil is out. Thank you Mark and crew.
Wow... I just discovered this... and I find this really amazing... You took gun repair and turned it on its head for me.. I never would of known what to do with a stuck case that had a torn head, and then you me out of all the solutions I might of though of, and showed me yet another method that worked most perfectly.
I also like the fact you go with paths of least resistance.. All too often people put a great deal of work thinking work will insure success, and its just now always the case.. Especially if you never tried technique before. And then... if you can answer a problem with the same tool comes the danger where you pigeon hole yourself by always using the same tool to answer all problems. That said.. I understand there must be alot of effort put into ever technique you have done and realize that is why you put a disclaimer at the front of your video.
In any case, I really am enjoying this channels narrative and hope to see more tools of your arsenal of knowledge.
Glad to have you along for the ride. Thanks....
Another wonderful video, full of information, humor and craftsmanship. Thank you for sharing your life with us!
The piston has to be tightened with the wrench that comes with the tool kit, it has a square cutout that matches the square shoulder on the piston.The end of the wrench has a cutout that matches the five sided adjustment on the gas regulator. I found that if i didnt tighten the piston sufficiently, the regulator would rotate from the desired setting and that would cause cycling issues. Original tool kits are readily available on ebay, and the wrench is available separately on ebay as well.
Thanks for the intel...
It would be advisable to have the end of the gas piston hard chromed. That way you could machine it to the desired diameter and it would be a lot more durable. No guarantee of the condition of replacement pistons considering they are 80 years old.
Nice video. Interesting at 4:19 how the trigger group is removed... The tab on my refurbished SVT-40 is MUCH harder to turn, and removal of the group is done by inserting a 7.62x54R cartridges nose into the rear of the tab hole, and pushing firmly... Pop, and now the TG is unlocked for removal.
I wonder since it appears this rifle is a Finnish capture (white bolt, no refurb mark on the top square receiver flat near
the chamber) that the components are so worn, that as you show is possible? BTW, you used to be able to buy the gas regulator wrench pretty cheaply, and now most are $$$ repos. Shame too it seems so may are seen with "sewer pipe' quality barrels, but will also say mine to this day could collapse world copper spot values, if I ever sold what it keeps returning.
Informative as always Mr Novak, a Plethora of Knowledge. Once again thank you Sir
These videos are something TV can never give you
No way, what a gem in the mine. Thanks for this vid.
Clearly a Master of his trade at work! Really liked the way he analysed his options, thought them through and then acted on his best option… Measure seven times, cut once!
I actually have an SVT-40 gas block tool. Go me! Another awesome video that helped me understand the gas system. Thank you Mark!
Spectacular brother proper job i picked one of these for $75 🤗🤗 crazy i did not know what i got and the seller did not know what he had he told me it was a sks nope not one of those he did not take care of it now it falls to me i need to learn as much as possible about the svt40 1943 thank you brother for your knowledge and expertise and for sharing your videos i hope to keep you informed on my progress
did you ruin it yet?
@@jobdylan5782 no i have not i have put about 500 rd through it still in good condition 👍👍👍
@@detroitredneckdetroitredne6674 good to hear lol
Good lord if you got a TV show I would buy the box set. It's like the Woodwright's Shop but for guns.
episode #83 Support them on Patreon: www.patreon.com/anvil or buy merch
I bought one in 1970. I fixed a crack in the stock wrist, but then it just sat until I got married. Sold it because I needed the money. Bought and sold for $100, if I remember. I never fired it. I saw it about 40 years later at a gun show. I think they were asking about $750.
Great work; I enjoy watching your process with tackling problems.
what a great video! Very interesting. Love your knowledge and confidence
Thank you for sharing this. Another great example of thoughtful craftsmanship.
I'm fortunate to have bought a crate of these back in 2012. In Canada the SVT 40's, SKS's and Mosin Nagants were super cheap, the market was flooded with them. Other than the SKS's all others were refurbished in a post war make work project, some lighter then others. The SVT-40's are probably my favorite. Great video!
Dobra, iz gud. Excellent video, most informative and entertaining. Looking at the gas control system brings the Fabrique Nationale FAL to mind. The SVT appears to be the early forebear of the FN system.
All very good info, especially in how to lap the chamber! On my own SVT it's been too prone to cases sticking in the chamber and I'm now wary of taking it out anymore. This is just the info I needed for working on and inspecting the gas system as well.
From what I have been told the WW2 Soviets machining was a bit rough and some SVT chambers weren't the best. They were more interested in huge numbers of working weapons.
So lapping the chamber should help. Also check to see if extractor 'Claws' and/or spring are worn
im really impressed about how he work on firearms. His knowledge and his work to save the originals items are really inspiring...
Damn these videos are just awesome to watch!! My wife is inside binge watching (whatever) and I’m binge watching anvil. Great videos mark
Woaah, mine is made in 1940 and the gas regulator says 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.5 and 1.7. Not 2! And this one does not look like a refurb, bolt is not plum color, mine is.
Though I have an original spare gas regulator and it says Roman I I instead of 1.1, but the contraperture looks smaller than 1.2! Works on surp reliably 1.2 at summer and 1.3 at winter. On Barnaul it is good 1.1 at summer 1.2 at winter. Stovepipes heavy loads at 1.3 summertime. Love to Mark, Othias, Bruno, Mae and to all you guys, Yevgen from Ukraine.
Awesome video. Learned a ton about STV 40 and loved watching your great practical gunsmithing methods. A++++ Video
Another outstanding video! Always a pleasure to watch you work shipmate!!
Man. I absolutely love your channel.. not only are you doing great work to preserve the firearms. But you put the history with it..
What's funny is that the US had the long-stroke gas piston M1 while Russia had the short stroke SVT40.
But then afterwards Russia adopted the long stroke AK, and the west (mostly) adopted short stroke systems (AUG, G36, SCAR, FAL, HK416)
I really enjoy your expositions/episodes. Your explanations are clear & logical. Thank you for your work with C&Rsenal.
I love how tight that seal on the gas system has become, it's a satisfying sound hearing the pop of the gas system cycling the rounds.
What an amazingly beautiful rifle. I am so glad that it was refurbished and conserved so that it can be shot for another 100 years...provided that it is properly maintained.
Thanks for the video Mark. I have an SVT40, its the most expensive gun I own. It is in great shape, and of course when I bought it the first thing I did was take it completely apart (except for the staked pins in FCG) so I could learn how it works.
These rifles scream "art deco" to me, they are sexy machines.
My biggest issue with the rifle is that it vertically strings like a mofo. The first round hits where you aim it, then after that it goes up and up! I tried using some gasket material under the handguard to put downward pressure on the barrel but it was no help. I guess it is what it is? These things have pencil barrels and quite thin receivers.
Agree... It is almost shocking to see how thin the barrels are, and like your rifle, mine strings/scatters too... At least all I feed her are my own non-corrosive handloads, so clean-up is not so bad.
Another thing that strikes you, if you have never handled one is how light they feel, for their size... On top of what we have discussed, the wood is a very light species (Artic Birch or some sort IIRC), and the refurbs like mine got the full auto stocks, leftover from full-auto AVT-40's and so marked... Has the second notch near the safety, where you swing it opposite for full auto. Also supposed to be a beefier design, to rectify issues with cracking.
You guys are who I send guys that are inclined for deep dive shenanigans. I love your stuff!
Just watched AGAIN, Mark. Partly because I own one, and mostly because it's an awesome video! Wish I could give you another Thumbs Up. Merry Christmas and a Happy (hopefully better) New Year!!
No views, Mark Novak, SVT f'ing 40
Cha ching
Then he breaks out a surprise. Niiice.
Awesome video! That Cerrosafe trick was amazing
Beats the tar out of the alternatives, for certain
@@marknovak8255 Ive had a similar issue with a 1917 that had a nick in the chamber. I had to beat the daylights out of it to get it out. Thanks for the reply!
The K43's gas system is a direct copy of the SVT-40. The German Army (Whermacht) had forbidden any semi-auto design that tapped gas from the barrel, so Walther and Mauser had to go through all sorts of dances to get a semi-auto 8mm working with other methods, meanwhile the Soviets were kicking their ass with the SVT-40. The SVT had a lot of parts for Russian conscripts, but the Germans loved them. Walther finally copied the gas and recoil system, pairing it with their locking lug design on the G43, later K43. Apparently Walther filed for a patent on Tokarev's design.
Thanks so much Mark for making this video! I bought one about 4 years ago and love seeing videos on this often forgetten rifle. I never played with the gas key because I thought I needed the super rare tool, but I'll just tap it out with a hammer. Fortunately the gun runs fine on the gas setting it came with but it's definitely good to know!
Mark, it's good to see your humor is as good and active as it was back in the day. Also we "coners" had the "I believe button" too. Great Video.
Outstanding. left a message on your page
@@marknovak8255 not sure how to view those, still trying to figure it out.
Lyudmila Pavlichenko , the top female soviet sniper was given one of these , she hated it and went back to her Mosin Nagant 3 line . Good video with simple effective solutions . Tough guns that will take a fair bit of abuse , simple and reliable
Forgotten Weapons and Mishaco have good videos on these. The pre-1942 sniper models were equipped with a rail for a PU scope, but apparently the receiver is just not stable enough for precision, so they stopped making them. In practice, it's a full-powered battle rifle that is really most effective at about the same range as an intermediate-cartridge rifle. No doubt this influenced the Soviet decisions to keep making the Mosin Nagant, and to issue more submachine guns.
I'm filing away the Cerro case removal and chamber lap technique. Looks like they could save a few firearms with sticky chambers without having to go to bumping it with a reamer or using a brush on a drill. I feel like the brush on a drill just is a little too aggressive and can create its own problems.
As far as the stock problems, do you ever use Ishapore screws along with Acraglass to reinforce wrists that are splitting due to over-oiling or excessive recoil? If it's not a historical piece I think they can add some great mechanical clamping force without trashing the appearance.
Brush on a drill wouldn't have even touched this
@@marknovak8255 I have an SVT-40 that I have to mortar to open after firing. I was thinking about trying your technique, however, the spent casings I have won't rechamber. They stop with about 1/4 inch left out. Am I missing something?
Just bought one yesterday. Cant wait to go try it tomorrow.Thank you for the very entertaining video!
Start low and work higher for the gas settings to cycle reliably. And they were designed for the light ball ammo. Just things to keep in mind. I've had 4 and I've never had an issue. Love them.
Enjoy the muzzle side blast
@@VDV90SHakal Oh nice tips! Thank you.
There is a gas adjustment wrench, I have one. One was very simple, a pentagonal slot for the gas adjustment and a square end to tighten the other thing that tightens the adjuster in. You adjust the gas while the rifle is all together.
The other tool includes those two and also some kind of oval opening that helps take off the handguard, or muzzle brake or something like that anyways.
oh look............some bubba was shooting corrosive 7.62x54R and didnt know about cleaning out the corrosive salts that get left behind in the barrel and gas system.
Had an old timer tell me a long time ago that “being slightly corrosive is like being slightly pregnant”.
@@bigb7157 I lol'd at that one.
@ 25:07 Rather than hammering the piece to have it mushroom, or machining a new one , It would be instructive to see electroplating used to bring up the dimensions of worn parts.
I wondered if steel can be plated onto steel. Since it is at the molecular level, it should stay "stuck" on.
Man this made my day Patreon money well spent keep up the awesome work Thank you
@32.30 'If you weren't one of the smarter guys in your unit...', I agree with you completely. I bet the majority of the events of poor reliability were a direct result of the soldiers either not cleaning/maintaining or setting the gas system correctly.
When are we going to see more about the half Japanese, half Winchester rifle? Oh and definitely the Boyes!
Great video! Take Care and be safe, John
That's why the Naval Infantry didn't have much trouble with theirs, but the conscripts in the army had all the trouble with theirs.
Most impressive. Great to watch a really good gunsmith do great work. Love it. Spellbound watching. Wish I was as good 👍👍
I love these videos and cannot get enough. I always learn so much.
This is a great video. I converted the gas regulator ports to inches as a reference for those that are used to dealing with gas regulators in adjustable gas systems:
2mm = .0787
1.7mm = .067
1.5mm = .059
1.3mm = .051
1.2mm = .047