You are so competant in both electrical(Digital/Analog) fault finding repair along with mechanical repairs even in very complex vehicles. Nothing seems to faze you. A very rare talent! Looking forward for future episodes as it makes my day!
I did a Mercedes Benz GL450 a few weeks ago that was getting oil in the coolant. It was the filter adapter and the cooler gasket on it also. OEM is the only way to go because you only want to do it once. Thanks Ivan!
If you need to do a V6 Mercedes Diesel, tripple check if the surrounding area of the oil cooler is clean. Also shopvac all the oil and coolant. One of the oil galleys of the cooler goes straight to the bearings. After the change unplug the CKP and build oil pressure. If you get any debris in there or start it without oil in the galley, you are likely to kill the rod bearings.
I like the way your videos always have either birds singing or crickets chirping in the background. Maybe that helps you keep calm as you deal with these finicky and over-complicated engineering nightmares! I hope you are well paid, you certainly deserve it!
Eh to persevere, Ivan! I know most guys don’t like working on these things, but I personally have come to enjoy the euros. The interference fit on everything, and not always the best service info are the tough/challenging things about them. But shoot, I find everything comes apart on them. I’m rarely dealing with seized bolts, and I’m in southern Ontario, Canada! I also agree that premium (almost exclusively OE) parts are the way to go with these things! Unfortunately the market is after full of cheap parts for them, so it’s tempting for people…. But with what they’re like to repair, it ain’t worth it!!✌️
I'll be anxious to hear your thoughts on working on (and maybe finding parts for) new versus older Audi's! Either way they are really interesting creatures of technology, even way back. I was happy to see you take this job on!
Tricky problem on the suspension. Leaks very well taken care of and have no doubt a very satisfied customer. Job well executed and the sun is shining 🌟 once more.
Cool trick with the vacuum! Did that kit come with a new coolant valve? The part with a vacuum hose next to the broken egr cooler coolant housing connection? Those are really common to be leaking too, Also maybe was also mentioned but when it was cranking for the first start after open fuel system you could hear the injector washer seals were compromised on one or more cylinders the psh sound coming out. tell tale the copper sealing washer is blown and compression escaping out of the exit holes above the exhaust manifold. Oh and I read down, the sump plug washer is a thicker design copper one it really crushes well and yes you have to torque it and use that correct washer or it will leak, doesn’t help if it’s been previously overtightened, a little cut away near the thread allows the sump to disform if wrong washer is used or over tightened making it hard to seal
You're an amazing tech Ivan. I kind of envy your position. You have the time to study your patients with meticulous detail. Unlike most of us that seem to have multilabel bosses making us work on a handful of jobs at once.
All respect, I totally realize what it takes to fix these vehicles and /understand/appreciate the time and money charged for repairs. There has to be customers that question and or challenge the amount charged.
Another great video Ivan I'm glad you didn't call it a Euro trash as I'm from the UK and these are my favourite car that is not bad for 181000 mileage You won't get an American or Japanese car drivers well as one of these
I have mostly found in my limited experience with mater kits stuff is missing. If it had to come apart to replace the problem leak. It probably needs to be replaced..
Hey Ivan. FYI...with all Audi/VW diesels, you need to prime the fuel filter which should be a function on your diagnosis tool. You shouldn't then have the long crank times.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics It won't purge the High pressure lines; I thought you had done a fuel filter change when you did the service. Apologies if that wasn't the case. The actual function you would need is called "Transfer Fuel Pump" on Module 01 (engine) (which primes the fuel system) - you need only do this for three secs, but again, it all depends on whether you have this function on your diagnostic computer.
Once that gasket fails after x amount of years or past 100,000 miles... Others will soon follow and that is why I stay away from German cars: costs of parts and specialty fluids PS, love that oil drain diverter with a scrap windshield washer fluid bottle 😊
If you have the $$$ to buy an Audi, you better have the $$$$$ to fix das German engineering. Damn Ivan, is there anything you can`t fix? The complexity on these cars is off the chain. I would look at this issue and say, Nope...not going to attempt it😁 Tip of the hat to your determination for taking on these intricate jobs.
Remember the first Corvette I had bought 1978 anniversary, take any normal part price and multiply x 4. A learning experience . Wanna play gotz to pay. Ha ha ha . On my sixth one now and nothing has changed. Standard oil change $165 😮 , 10 quarts of racing quality oil . I will say as far as parts you have to go with OEM quality, that used to mean made in the USA but could be as Eric would say now OEM Chineesium ha ha
i had to swap the same engine last summer on a Audi A7 because the timing chain guide broke off and locked the engine! when i was done, the flywheel had a loud rattle and i had to drop the transmission! believe me, i know how nice is to work on these cars :)
So true, those type of vehicles simply will cost you much more during maintenance intervals so its best to simply accept that and buy the better brand parts such as OEM. They are very much more finicky than USA built so there's not much point in making matters worse, just dig a bunch deeper and give the vehicle what its going to take to do it right.
A few years ago Audi, s won the car that had the most trouble calls by some australian states auto motor associations breakdown data mostly with electtrics issues. Great cars to drive but money pits down the track like alot of european and german makes.
I own a 2015 Audi s3 and I have had an issue with the car for almost 2 years. I have been to 5 different mechanics including 2 Audi dealerships and 3 European shop experts and not a single one has been able to figure out what’s wrong. I have spent thousands of dollars on what they suspected was wrong but I am still getting fault codes and my car still barely starts. If you are willing to take on this challenge I will compensate you for your time. If not, any advice in the right direction would be highly appreciated. I do not know where else to turn. The problem: When starting the car it takes 3-5 times to push the ignition before the car turns over. It generally just sputters and then shuts off. Occasionally, at idle the car will just shut off. When it doesn’t shut off the idle is very rough and I can feel the whole car shaking. I don’t really notice a lack of performance once the car is started, although the more aggressively I drive the harder it is to start the next time. I have had the fuel pump replaced and the carbon cleaned from the engine. The dealer stated those would both fix the problem and they both did not work. I can go into more detail about what each mechanic told me if you are interested. The fault codes are: System too rich at idle bank 1 02 Sensor negative current control circuit/open bank 1 sensor 1 Cylinder 1 misfire detected Cylinder 4 misfire detected System too rich at idle bank 1 (permanent) I will provide you with any additional information you need and can go into much more detail about what each mechanic said. Thank you
kudos to you Ivan for doing a great job on this german beast; I cannot understand why anyone would pay so much for what is basically a pimped-out VW,,,but thats just my opinion,,,
Charging full price??? RU kidding me??....the owner should mail U an extra $500.00, because most Stealerships would have charged wayyyy more, and they never would have figured out the ups and downs of the suspension. Truly GREAT work! wow!
Well done ivan perfect :-D, Another feather in your cap :-D Don't they make it a pain in the arse to access. Nice that the local Audi had the propper O ring.
one thing I can tell you is I did this exact same job on a VW Touareg it was leaking oil and coolant i replaced the water pump at the same time and it came back leaking coolant and when I vacuum tested the system with low amount of of vacuum it would leak and you would hear air getting in the system but with high vac level it would not leak or at least not as much the problem was the plastic vacuum operated coolant valve it was leaking on the shaft seal do yourself a favor replace that valve no question ask if I have to do this job again I will replace that valve for sure.
I just had all this done 2 weeks ago, water pump just before that and still have a leak somewhere. No codes from the car right now, any suggestions where to look now?
Standard issue by those V6 Engines.....almost everyday rituals 😂 Good job though. It is good when that plastic cover from Waterpump doesnt leaking.....dude that is a nightmare 😂😅
No wonder other mechanics stay far away as possible from Germans and European makes. Really need to appreciate Ivan for having the guts to accept such tasks. My neighbor paid $4k+ to get his radiator replaced on his Porsche Cayenne (essentially Audi) that too at an independent shop and not dealer! lol
An old friend of mine who was a long time Audi and Mercedes Benz parts man had a saying that is very true: "Expensive cars are made of Expensive parts".
I didn’t see a lot of black oil on yourself. You did well! I order from FCP Euro for my customers. Cheaper than dealer and lifetime warranty on parts. Service kits are priced well using OEM spec oil.
I learned this with my second white block Volvo. The first time around I bought dealer parts for the timing belt service, including the water pump. With my next one, I bought all of the same items from FCP, OE spec, including the Volvo branded Aisin water pump with the Volvo name ground off, the cost was half of what the dealer charged years earlier for the first Volvo.
I have a Touareg with the 3.0 TDI that seems to have this same issue, as a ballpark, how much can I expect to pay to have someone repair this? $1000? $5000?
I wish I could get my 2003 Lesabre to you from Tulsa. It primes the fuel system when turning the key from Off to the Unlock position and again like it is supposed to in the On position. No codes from Security system but at night when I turn the key back and forth from Off to Unlock position the Security light will blink 1 time real quick(sometimes). Nothing else is On except for the PRNDL light. Fuel pump is priming too early for some odd reason. Car starts and runs. I'm pulling my hair out.
When I hook up my crp919e and monitor the crank pid it will drop out and almost stall at idle. Has what I call a "dirty" graph signal on crk sensor and tps voltage fluctuates from 0.49v to 0.47v when at idle and not touching the throttle. It has the same symptoms of the AllData TSB 05-06-04-058. No TCM codes or anything that I can find. Transmission shifts good and smooth. I have unloaded the parts cannon on it. It was doing this before I replaced anything. Car came from a Used Lot. No history. The crk sensor data will show around 150 rpm and the car will not be running. Sometimes it will stall but start right back up. STFT around 0 to -1 at idle and LTFT is -10. The fuel pump priming situation is strange to me. Like something is going on with the Passkey lll or something. It will prime as I turn the car off on the unlock position too. The stall and fishbite problem is intermittent but will happen at light throttle or 70 mph steady cruise. It freaks me out! Lol!! Sorry for the long reply. Thanks for your time Ivan.@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics
Ok. I thought about that but I don't have one so I'll go back to the fuel priming issue. I'm trying to figure out what is telling the PCM to ground the fuel pump relay when the key is turned to the unlock position (before ON). Every time. It's strange. If I can figure that out I think that will solve the ckp sensor issue. Wondering if the PMM (Power Mode Master) portion of the DIM (Dash Integration Module) is causing it without setting a code. I'm not a pro so, I don't know. But, I'm a poet and didn't know it. Lol!! @@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics
I know VWs constantly needing work is a meme for a reason but my 2015 TDI Golf Sportwagen has been great since new. Besides the dieselgate stuff, I've only had to replace a wheel speed sensor and an A/C pressure switch. I just recently got to 100k miles, so it's "low" miles.
My 2011 1.6 tdi passat has 215k on it and apart from a wheel alignment and a set of tyres it’s problem free. People like to slag things off they know nothing about.
I mentioned this on the first vid but I had an 2002 A4 1.9tdi for 7 years and it was a superb car. Had over 300k miles on it when I eventually traded it in and it always started first flick of the key. Great car to work on as well, drop the entire front end into the service position and you unlimited access to the timing gear when the belt was due. Also I think at that time Audi still galvanised the entire chassis so rust was never an issue on the main structure
@@stephen7mgte@stephen7mgte Ye, 1.9TDI or 1.8T with a manual or even the EU sold slow 1.6 8 valve and you cannot go very wrong. Many of these were not sold in the US however.
On something like that you would think they would put a time change or mileage that recommends that you change it out .With amount of money you pay for one of those cars.
Guess you'll have to add a new slogan now. No Vacuuming Required..... Damn, I don't know why I never thought of making a bucket and keeping my wet vac clean.
@@dakotabedwell6829 and lambo and Bugatti. All I know is that Porsches are more reliable than most Audis today when talking with mechanics, especially the Caymans.
These German manufacturers can’t make rubber gaskets that live long to save their life. What a difference from the tanks they built through the early 90s compared to recent years. Most unfortunate. After Lexus hit the scene and made a better car for much less money the Germans couldn’t figure out how to compete so they just made things cheaper and cheaper and cheaper. So sad, my father had an 85 325e that was a great car until a deer totaled it with 300k miles.
And when you make Oil Cooler sealent, Always but ALWAYS needs to change those coolant valves and every o-ring which is there buried in V. It is really pain in the A** again to disassemble
you are right about that vac. operated coolant valve I leaned it when I had to go back and replace that plastic valve I did not know that valve was there now it I have to do it again I will replace it for sure I wonder if he is going to get a come back out of this job because to have such a major leak out of seal rings with the car parked over knight is very suspect I hope that we will se later if all is fine.
This happened to mine years ago after I undid the wrong bolts down there while removing something else, maybe EGR. I did them up again, but it must have broken the gasket seal and oil and water would acculumlate and slosh forward onto the belts when braking.
As with any European vehicle if they are outside Europe they are expensive to maintain (and anything manufactured in Germany they are over engineered.) I will be sticking to Japnesse manufactured vehicles mainly because they require less maintance & when they do aftermarket parts are suitable in most cases which also makes them cheaper to repair.tCheers Ivan.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics ok thanks definitely looks like a easy workable setup to keep the water in the bucket instead of the vac like your design 🙏🐺
most V6 V8 V10 or V12 that the intake inlet is in the V some engine are know a a HOT V LIKE A BMW V8 twin turbo this why I don't like V engines I like better in line engines.
I keep telling you " DON'T EVER WORRY ABOUT PUTTING PARTS IN A CAR, NO MATTER WHAT THE COST IS" that's not your problem your primary concern is not having a come back.
So your replacing all the gaskets and didn't do the "missing" one? Lol you don't vacuum/pressure test the Coolant system before filling? That will tell you if you have a leak before you fill it.
two reason it took a long time to start it a Diesel and he open the fuel sytem and introduced air in and second he should've use his scan tool to prime the system before to start the engine and it seem like the battery was not 100 % the cranking speed seemed a bit low.
Someone I worked with wanted me to work on his Audi Q7. Mate if you can afford a car like that you can afford a proper mechanic. That thing is a can of worms. haha
Chrysler and Audi are out there using the valley of the engine as a spill tray. While I’ve seen new Nissan nv2500 mount there’s like a horn in the very front of the engine near the bottom. They also leak along with a tsb on them leaking I believe but at least you don’t have to dig them out like these valley dwellers!
Buying Audi brand oil is just an affectation. Audi doesn’t manufacture oil, but they do set standards for the correct oil. The standards include both oil grade and additive inclusions. For Audi diesel the additive spec is VW 507 00. Many manufacturers include this spec. I’ve always used Mobil Delvac in my German diesels. Only one of many suitable oils.
![3.0 TDI Valley Coolant Leak [VAG 3L V6 Diesel Gen2] 2013 Porsche Cayenne 958, Audi Q7, VW Touareg](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/MA0qaoT0EdI/mqdefault.jpg)
You are so competant in both electrical(Digital/Analog) fault finding
repair along with mechanical repairs
even in very complex vehicles. Nothing seems to faze you.
A very rare talent!
Looking forward for future episodes as it makes my day!
Taking on more difficult jobs on "quirky" vehicles definitely keeps it interesting, and makes "regular" car repairs seem rather trivial 😄
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics A MAN OF MANY, MANY, TALENTS.
After being a tech for 30 years, these are the exact jobs I pass along now. "Aint nobody got time for that!". But good job.
I did a Mercedes Benz GL450 a few weeks ago that was getting oil in the coolant. It was the filter adapter and the cooler gasket on it also. OEM is the only way to go because you only want to do it once. Thanks Ivan!
If you need to do a V6 Mercedes Diesel, tripple check if the surrounding area of the oil cooler is clean. Also shopvac all the oil and coolant. One of the oil galleys of the cooler goes straight to the bearings. After the change unplug the CKP and build oil pressure. If you get any debris in there or start it without oil in the galley, you are likely to kill the rod bearings.
Duley noted. Lots of little things that will kill them. Thanks!@@tschuuuls486
You make every job a great learning experience for your viewers! Great job Ivan!
Hey Will I appreciate that! Hope all is well!
I like the way your videos always have either birds singing or crickets chirping in the background. Maybe that helps you keep calm as you deal with these finicky and over-complicated engineering nightmares! I hope you are well paid, you certainly deserve it!
Don't for get the " RUBBER HOSE THST MOVES IN HIS GARAGE ".
@@NoWr2Run lol thankfully not this year! 😅
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics I know, such a disappointment.
He was a BIG ONE, YIKES !
I have to agree with the other commentors , you never seem to get shook up or intimidated by some old computer on wheels. You are the man !
I love how you never leave a customer disappointed you just go your route fixing stuff ❤
Customer satisfaction is priority #1! 😁
Eh to persevere, Ivan!
I know most guys don’t like working on these things, but I personally have come to enjoy the euros. The interference fit on everything, and not always the best service info are the tough/challenging things about them. But shoot, I find everything comes apart on them. I’m rarely dealing with seized bolts, and I’m in southern Ontario, Canada!
I also agree that premium (almost exclusively OE) parts are the way to go with these things! Unfortunately the market is after full of cheap parts for them, so it’s tempting for people…. But with what they’re like to repair, it ain’t worth it!!✌️
I'll be anxious to hear your thoughts on working on (and maybe finding parts for) new versus older Audi's! Either way they are really interesting creatures of technology, even way back. I was happy to see you take this job on!
Tricky problem on the suspension. Leaks very well taken care of and have no doubt a very satisfied customer. Job well executed and the sun is shining 🌟 once more.
Brilliant gutter system for the oil drain 👍
Did you stop posting videos???
Sweet job Ivan, now…if we could just agree on the seatbelt situation 😊. I have a 2017 A4 with 46k on it and not a need for any repairs ‘so far’.🇺🇸
Cool trick with the vacuum!
Did that kit come with a new coolant valve? The part with a vacuum hose next to the broken egr cooler coolant housing connection? Those are really common to be leaking too,
Also maybe was also mentioned but when it was cranking for the first start after open fuel system you could hear the injector washer seals were compromised on one or more cylinders the psh sound coming out. tell tale the copper sealing washer is blown and compression escaping out of the exit holes above the exhaust manifold.
Oh and I read down, the sump plug washer is a thicker design copper one it really crushes well and yes you have to torque it and use that correct washer or it will leak, doesn’t help if it’s been previously overtightened, a little cut away near the thread allows the sump to disform if wrong washer is used or over tightened making it hard to seal
You're an amazing tech Ivan. I kind of envy your position. You have the time to study your patients with meticulous detail. Unlike most of us that seem to have multilabel bosses making us work on a handful of jobs at once.
Yes that is why I work for myself 😁
Complexity is the enemy of reliability!
Preach.
Truth ✅️
Or the enemy of serviceability haha
Nothing truer!
As my mentor Montgomery Scott is fond of saying, "the more complicated you make the plumbing, the easier it is to stop up the drain."
All respect, I totally realize what it takes to fix these vehicles and /understand/appreciate the time and money charged for repairs.
There has to be customers that question and or challenge the amount charged.
Sweet oil drain hack … nicely done …
When the word "massive" is in all caps, you know it's going to be a good time.
Excellent job as always Ivan! Your approach to things is why you can fix things that baffles others.
Another great video Ivan I'm glad you didn't call it a Euro trash as I'm from the UK and these are my favourite car that is not bad for 181000 mileage
You won't get an American or Japanese car drivers well as one of these
y
I put a very light coat of Hylomar on new oil gaskets and used and new o-rings.
100% leak-free every time.
I have mostly found in my limited experience with mater kits stuff is missing. If it had to come apart to replace the problem leak. It probably needs to be replaced..
Lost me on this one. Hope you have better success and have learned from some of these mistakes l.
I learned a long time ago to only put water in engine after major repairs, any problems will only be water on floor
Hey Ivan. FYI...with all Audi/VW diesels, you need to prime the fuel filter which should be a function on your diagnosis tool. You shouldn't then have the long crank times.
How would that purge the HIGH pressure line though? 🤔
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics It won't purge the High pressure lines; I thought you had done a fuel filter change when you did the service. Apologies if that wasn't the case. The actual function you would need is called "Transfer Fuel Pump" on Module 01 (engine) (which primes the fuel system) - you need only do this for three secs, but again, it all depends on whether you have this function on your diagnostic computer.
Ivan I thought that was a 5 o clock shadow you were wearing, lol! Nice work!
Once that gasket fails after x amount of years or past 100,000 miles... Others will soon follow and that is why I stay away from German cars: costs of parts and specialty fluids
PS, love that oil drain diverter with a scrap windshield washer fluid bottle 😊
I like saying there is nothing more expensive than a cheap German car.
Hopefully you replaced the drain plug gasket. They normally will not seal when reused.
I learned that the hard way on this one... Had to wrap some Teflon tape on the drain plug to stop the drips 😆
Opel (Saturn) Astra has similar oil cooler design. Planned failure point.
If you have the $$$ to buy an Audi, you better have the $$$$$ to fix das German engineering. Damn Ivan, is there anything you can`t fix? The complexity on these cars is off the chain. I would look at this issue and say, Nope...not going to attempt it😁 Tip of the hat to your determination for taking on these intricate jobs.
Remember the first Corvette I had bought 1978 anniversary, take any normal part price and multiply x 4. A learning experience . Wanna play gotz to pay. Ha ha ha . On my sixth one now and nothing has changed. Standard oil change $165 😮 , 10 quarts of racing quality oil . I will say as far as parts you have to go with OEM quality, that used to mean made in the USA but could be as Eric would say now OEM Chineesium ha ha
i had to swap the same engine last summer on a Audi A7 because the timing chain guide broke off and locked the engine! when i was done, the flywheel had a loud rattle and i had to drop the transmission! believe me, i know how nice is to work on these cars :)
So true, those type of vehicles simply will cost you much more during maintenance intervals so its best to simply accept that and buy the better brand parts such as OEM. They are very much more finicky than USA built so there's not much point in making matters worse, just dig a bunch deeper and give the vehicle what its going to take to do it right.
Ah, the VW Turag v6 TDI Valley oil water leak. My 2010 what fun.
A few years ago Audi, s won the car that had the most trouble calls by some australian states auto motor associations breakdown data mostly with electtrics issues. Great cars to drive but money pits down the track like alot of european and german makes.
Thanks for the video Ivan.
I own a 2015 Audi s3 and I have had an issue with the car for almost 2 years. I have been to 5 different mechanics including 2 Audi dealerships and 3 European shop experts and not a single one has been able to figure out what’s wrong. I have spent thousands of dollars on what they suspected was wrong but I am still getting fault codes and my car still barely starts. If you are willing to take on this challenge I will compensate you for your time. If not, any advice in the right direction would be highly appreciated. I do not know where else to turn.
The problem:
When starting the car it takes 3-5 times to push the ignition before the car turns over. It generally just sputters and then shuts off. Occasionally, at idle the car will just shut off. When it doesn’t shut off the idle is very rough and I can feel the whole car shaking. I don’t really notice a lack of performance once the car is started, although the more aggressively I drive the harder it is to start the next time. I have had the fuel pump replaced and the carbon cleaned from the engine. The dealer stated those would both fix the problem and they both did not work. I can go into more detail about what each mechanic told me if you are interested.
The fault codes are:
System too rich at idle bank 1
02 Sensor negative current control circuit/open bank 1 sensor 1
Cylinder 1 misfire detected
Cylinder 4 misfire detected
System too rich at idle bank 1 (permanent)
I will provide you with any additional information you need and can go into much more detail about what each mechanic said.
Thank you
I love my Audi A6 3.0 TDI. Only 163,000 miles and runs great!
kudos to you Ivan for doing a great job on this german beast; I cannot understand why anyone would pay so much for what is basically a pimped-out VW,,,but thats just my opinion,,,
These are good cars, better than a lot of people think.
If your idea of good is an anonymous gray midsize crossover, perhaps.
Charging full price??? RU kidding me??....the owner should mail U an extra $500.00, because most Stealerships would have charged wayyyy more, and they never would have figured out the ups and downs of the suspension. Truly GREAT work! wow!
Well done ivan perfect :-D, Another feather in your cap :-D
Don't they make it a pain in the arse to access.
Nice that the local Audi had the propper O ring.
one thing I can tell you is I did this exact same job on a VW Touareg it was leaking oil and coolant i replaced the water pump at the same time and it came back leaking coolant and when I vacuum tested the system with low amount of of vacuum it would leak and you would hear air getting in the system but with high vac level it would not leak or at least not as much the problem was the plastic vacuum operated coolant valve it was leaking on the shaft seal do yourself a favor replace that valve no question ask if I have to do this job again I will replace that valve for sure.
Yup new valve installed 👍
I just had all this done 2 weeks ago, water pump just before that and still have a leak somewhere. No codes from the car right now, any suggestions where to look now?
Do AUDI's come complete with crickets?
Great JOB!!
Standard issue by those V6 Engines.....almost everyday rituals 😂 Good job though. It is good when that plastic cover from Waterpump doesnt leaking.....dude that is a nightmare 😂😅
No wonder other mechanics stay far away as possible from Germans and European makes. Really need to appreciate Ivan for having the guts to accept such tasks. My neighbor paid $4k+ to get his radiator replaced on his Porsche Cayenne (essentially Audi) that too at an independent shop and not dealer! lol
Great video. can i get gasket and oring kit from the dealership? My is leaking at 120,549miles.
Ivan: I'm not doing this, the owner can take it to the dealer. Next video, Ivan is doing it. 😂 I love it, keep it up.
An old friend of mine who was a long time Audi and Mercedes Benz parts man had a saying that is very true: "Expensive cars are made of Expensive parts".
Gotta love how rubber hardens and shrinks!
Good call going OEM only. Especially on something as involved as this you don't want to do it twice.
Thanks Ivan!
I didn’t see a lot of black oil on yourself. You did well! I order from FCP Euro for my customers. Cheaper than dealer and lifetime warranty on parts. Service kits are priced well using OEM spec oil.
I learned this with my second white block Volvo. The first time around I bought dealer parts for the timing belt service, including the water pump. With my next one, I bought all of the same items from FCP, OE spec, including the Volvo branded Aisin water pump with the Volvo name ground off, the cost was half of what the dealer charged years earlier for the first Volvo.
I have a Touareg with the 3.0 TDI that seems to have this same issue, as a ballpark, how much can I expect to pay to have someone repair this? $1000? $5000?
Great repair Ivan. It’ll be back soon for an air compressor I think, 400 degrees 😮you could fry an egg on that sucker🤣
How much did this job cost? I own a 2014 a8l tdi with the same leak.
Have a question ford bronco flooding one side of the motor don't have all the fancy equipment to check it with can you maybe give some advice ?
Scan for codes
So your doing a job on the cooling system and did drain the Coolant first?
It drained itself into the valley 🤣
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics great job buddy!
I wish I could get my 2003 Lesabre to you from Tulsa. It primes the fuel system when turning the key from Off to the Unlock position and again like it is supposed to in the On position. No codes from Security system but at night when I turn the key back and forth from Off to Unlock position the Security light will blink 1 time real quick(sometimes). Nothing else is On except for the PRNDL light. Fuel pump is priming too early for some odd reason. Car starts and runs. I'm pulling my hair out.
So what's the actual problem if the car starts and runs? 😅
When I hook up my crp919e and monitor the crank pid it will drop out and almost stall at idle. Has what I call a "dirty" graph signal on crk sensor and tps voltage fluctuates from 0.49v to 0.47v when at idle and not touching the throttle. It has the same symptoms of the AllData TSB 05-06-04-058. No TCM codes or anything that I can find. Transmission shifts good and smooth. I have unloaded the parts cannon on it. It was doing this before I replaced anything. Car came from a Used Lot. No history. The crk sensor data will show around 150 rpm and the car will not be running. Sometimes it will stall but start right back up. STFT around 0 to -1 at idle and LTFT is -10. The fuel pump priming situation is strange to me. Like something is going on with the Passkey lll or something. It will prime as I turn the car off on the unlock position too. The stall and fishbite problem is intermittent but will happen at light throttle or 70 mph steady cruise. It freaks me out! Lol!! Sorry for the long reply. Thanks for your time Ivan.@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics
@@DS-ss396 you need an oscilloscope to diagnose the CKP signal 👍
Ok. I thought about that but I don't have one so I'll go back to the fuel priming issue. I'm trying to figure out what is telling the PCM to ground the fuel pump relay when the key is turned to the unlock position (before ON). Every time. It's strange. If I can figure that out I think that will solve the ckp sensor issue. Wondering if the PMM (Power Mode Master) portion of the DIM (Dash Integration Module) is causing it without setting a code. I'm not a pro so, I don't know. But, I'm a poet and didn't know it. Lol!! @@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics
Do you guys have different service schedule? To me an oil change does not denote a service reset.
Nice job Ivan, I drive a audi A4, it is my fift audi
I know VWs constantly needing work is a meme for a reason but my 2015 TDI Golf Sportwagen has been great since new. Besides the dieselgate stuff, I've only had to replace a wheel speed sensor and an A/C pressure switch. I just recently got to 100k miles, so it's "low" miles.
My 2011 1.6 tdi passat has 215k on it and apart from a wheel alignment and a set of tyres it’s problem free. People like to slag things off they know nothing about.
I mentioned this on the first vid but I had an 2002 A4 1.9tdi for 7 years and it was a superb car. Had over 300k miles on it when I eventually traded it in and it always started first flick of the key.
Great car to work on as well, drop the entire front end into the service position and you unlimited access to the timing gear when the belt was due. Also I think at that time Audi still galvanised the entire chassis so rust was never an issue on the main structure
@@stephen7mgte@stephen7mgte Ye, 1.9TDI or 1.8T with a manual or even the EU sold slow 1.6 8 valve and you cannot go very wrong.
Many of these were not sold in the US however.
I commend you for taking this on, I won’t touch fluid leaks in these cars lol
Great Job
gotta love those q7s, always in the shop!!!!
On something like that you would think they would put a time change or mileage that recommends that you change it out .With amount of money you pay for one of those cars.
Which car manufacturer does that? I think there isn't one who recommends servicing EGR cooler. 😅
Gee, great engineering Audi!
Those residual pressure chokes/valves will fail quickly again. You should`ve replace them.
there are at least 3 comments about that now including me time will tell.
Guess you'll have to add a new slogan now. No Vacuuming Required.....
Damn, I don't know why I never thought of making a bucket and keeping my wet vac clean.
Did one of these a couple of years ago, wouldn't want to do one again. Out of all the german car manufacturers, Audi/VW/Bentley are the worst.
Mercedes are not much better. Porsche is probably the best option at this point.
All is German junk.
@@hokie9910Porshe is Volkswagen
@@dakotabedwell6829 and lambo and Bugatti. All I know is that Porsches are more reliable than most Audis today when talking with mechanics, especially the Caymans.
These German manufacturers can’t make rubber gaskets that live long to save their life. What a difference from the tanks they built through the early 90s compared to recent years. Most unfortunate. After Lexus hit the scene and made a better car for much less money the Germans couldn’t figure out how to compete so they just made things cheaper and cheaper and cheaper. So sad, my father had an 85 325e that was a great car until a deer totaled it with 300k miles.
Was the oil mixing with the coolant? Thanks for the heads up
Externally yes. Thankfully not internally lol
What's city do you work in and how much does this cost?
And when you make Oil Cooler sealent, Always but ALWAYS needs to change those coolant valves and every o-ring which is there buried in V. It is really pain in the A** again to disassemble
you are right about that vac. operated coolant valve I leaned it when I had to go back and replace that plastic valve I did not know that valve was there now it I have to do it again I will replace it for sure I wonder if he is going to get a come back out of this job because to have such a major leak out of seal rings with the car parked over knight is very suspect I hope that we will se later if all is fine.
This happened to mine years ago after I undid the wrong bolts down there while removing something else, maybe EGR. I did them up again, but it must have broken the gasket seal and oil and water would acculumlate and slosh forward onto the belts when braking.
As with any European vehicle if they are outside Europe they are expensive to maintain (and anything manufactured in Germany they are over engineered.) I will be sticking to Japnesse manufactured vehicles mainly because they require less maintance & when they do aftermarket parts are suitable in most cases which also makes them cheaper to repair.tCheers Ivan.
Do you pull the filter out of the shop vac to do the bucket thing bud 🙏🐺
I actually replaced the shop vac filter after this messy job lol
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics ok thanks definitely looks like a easy workable setup to keep the water in the bucket instead of the vac like your design 🙏🐺
Are tthere any other cars that are put together like this?
most V6 V8 V10 or V12 that the intake inlet is in the V some engine are know a a HOT V LIKE A BMW V8 twin turbo this why I don't like V engines I like better in line engines.
That o ring is just a regular hydrogenated Nitrile o ring you would use for ac.
that a quiet diesel engine job well done
Why is it when I remove those gaskets, they always break off in tiny bits! Euro's aren't that bad to work on ;)
Sounded like it has some type of compression imbalance on initial crank.
Probably a few small carbon chunks on the valves lol
Wear your seatbelt Ivan
We'd hate to lose you 😳
I keep telling you " DON'T EVER WORRY ABOUT PUTTING PARTS IN A CAR, NO MATTER WHAT THE COST IS" that's not your problem your primary concern is not having a come back.
Hope he has done trans fluid and xfer case oil changes.
Can you say 'trans' fluid any more? Maybe it should be gender fluid! 😅
So your replacing all the gaskets and didn't do the "missing" one?
Lol you don't vacuum/pressure test the Coolant system before filling? That will tell you if you have a leak before you fill it.
I hope you did not warranty the suspension repair. I just don't see it lasting. ☹
WOW!, I think Ivan almost liked the "Euro trash".
"diesels are less complicated than gas engines"..Not any more. Good thing that the Audi dealer was honest.."Audi o-ring? That'll be $39"
Liquimoly makes good oil that may be cheaper than dealer oil.
What’s the cost of this job?
About $1600 with OEM parts 👍
oooofh... that compression on the long crank
two reason it took a long time to start it a Diesel and he open the fuel sytem and introduced air in and second he should've use his scan tool to prime the system before to start the engine and it seem like the battery was not 100 % the cranking speed seemed a bit low.
Someone I worked with wanted me to work on his Audi Q7. Mate if you can afford a car like that you can afford a proper mechanic. That thing is a can of worms. haha
my older son has an Audi TTS Quattro. Car is in the shop more than on the road
Chrysler and Audi are out there using the valley of the engine as a spill tray. While I’ve seen new Nissan nv2500 mount there’s like a horn in the very front of the engine near the bottom. They also leak along with a tsb on them leaking I believe but at least you don’t have to dig them out like these valley dwellers!
At least the Chrysler Pentastar oil cooler job takes maybe an hour haha 😉
True!
Buying Audi brand oil is just an affectation. Audi doesn’t manufacture oil, but they do set standards for the correct oil. The
standards include both oil grade and additive inclusions. For Audi diesel the additive spec is VW 507 00. Many manufacturers include this spec. I’ve always used Mobil Delvac in my German diesels. Only one of many suitable oils.
You forgot to write the follow up from the customer after delivery. If it is still working. 😀 👍
It's working fine 👍
Yeah, Ivan, sometimes you have to actually replace parts that are bad
504/507 oil you cab certainly buy from somewhere else than the dealer. 😂