This is amazing. I'm seriously impressed. You guy might want to investigate epoxy granite. It's basically a mix of various sizes of gravel and sand, with a bit of epoxy to bind it. The damping and stiffness properties are as good, if not better than, cast iron. It can be used to make whole machine bases. You could box in the frame of your grinder, and cast in some DIY epoxy granite. Machine tools are heavy for a reason, and adding weight and rigidity would likely go a long way towards improving the precision and surface finish you're able to achieve.
Weight will definitely help reduce chatter, encasing the machine in granite will definitely improve rigidity, so it is a win win strategy for this one.
Pro Tip: When you're tig welding an open joint. Put a piece of .125"-.250" copper flat bar on the backside. One, you were getting porosity because of airflow from the backside of your weld and two, it'll help with bead control while your skills continue to get better. For blending use type 27 flap discs.
One problem I saw what that you were cutting on both passes. One pass would try and cut with the spin of the wheel and the other would cut against the spin of the wheel... You ALWAYS want to cut cut against the spin of the wheel! This leads to a cleaner and more controlled surface. So, start with you part on the mag-chuck. And with you part between the wheel and the upright body of the grinder. - If you work cannot fit under the throat of the grinder, then that is a good sign that your part is too big... Then you want you work to start moving back and forth so that the wheel leaves the work completely on each pass. Then start shifting the work a quarter of the wheel with with each pass, against the spin of the wheel. Continue until the work has fully passed under the wheel. The leading edge of the wheel might get worn down by your work... Continuing to the trailing edge of the wheel should make for a more level surface. If the direction of feed is away from the body of the machine, and you inappropriately look/move away, the work will not automatically crash into the machine... That is why you start with the work between the wheel and machine. You might want to re-surface the wheel before your final pass... Don't move your part from the chuck though. Just turn the chuck off, add the wheel burr - turn the chuck on again - level the wheel - remove the burr - do the final passes... ------------------------------ Also, after you get your machine level and parallel... Surface grind the surface of your chuck. You will never get parallel flat sides if your table is not both flat and perpendicular to the wheel... Also, you must have liquid cooling!!! Not only with this help with the dust - if you control the spray - but it will keep the work cool. If the work expands from the grinding, then it does not mater how the machine is set, then work will not be flat when it cools back down... ------------------------------ Hope all of this helps!
Too much music too much slow mo. reminds me of alec steeles videos, which I can't stomach. Had to jump through this video so maybe I missed the ToT ref but his videos are not in this style. Thankfully...
Congrats to your first grind. You gain valuable practical experience. Blend that with theory and you will put your grinder to higher levels. Keep up with your good work and thanks for sharing your journey with the maker community.
I have watched all these videos back to back today, and I am very impressed with your creation. Really well done lads, you should be proud of yourselves
You guys are talented, I just rather buy the machines from pros that make them, and have a warranty. Very good craftsmanship, I hope young people watch your videos and get inspired to use their hands. Thank you.
Your wobble is caused by the fact, the whole machine is way too light for it's job. The "bench" is behaving like a spring, due to its construction. Every slight unbalance in the grinding wheel gets transported thru the frame and then amplified by the springy bench. Have a look what the actual contact-forces are, when you hitting the plate with the wheel. This outward push is easily compensated thru bend in your contruction. You gotta enforce the whole frame and put sandbags or clay in every free spot to get rid of the whobble.
A crude method to balance the wheel is a matched pair of 123 blocks on a very level surface plate (ie use a machinists level) and a shaft that matches the ID of the wheel, once it has stopped rolling back and forth the centroid of the wheel will be on the bottom so you can then use a carbide drill and take just a partial cut into the side of it to “balance” it. Rinse/ repeat till it balances at any rotation. Physics!
I still think the chatter is the stepper motor to ballscrew coupling, they flex both up and down, do a test with just finger power, the rest is comming on fine 👍
Paint it “Gun Metal Grey”...of course. Oh yea, please increase the volume of videos! Seriously. You guys are at the top of my favorite channels. Thanks for all you do.
I just finished a machine wiring and safety class and it’s interesting to see how you positioned everything in the box, wires etc. we talk about enclosure positions and it’s interesting to see your ideas were so simple and effective.
Thank You for putting the wheel guard on it, however, I think if you extend the guard down at least another inch (perhaps a separate guard piece that can be height adjusted to accommodate wheels of different diameters...hint...hint...) you will get much better dust control. I saw a lot of dust flying up as well as sideways. A lower guard will catch all the upwards flying dust and direct it sideways where a wide-mouth funnel would catch it and direct it to the bottom of the funnel and a shop-vac hose (that's the set-up my school shop had on it's surface grinder, we could only see the bottom 1/4 inch or so of the wheel), severely reducing the amount of metal dust in the shop as a whole (which will reduce your cleaning/maintenance/repair bills/work). Other than that, looks good...
I think considering all the problems you solved and the materials used etc. the outcome was nothing short of fantastic. I vote with the guys that say paint it the same colors as the tee shirt, it will look even better.
Looks good. Still think that dressing your wheel to have a step, to reduce width to say 1/4" would help. Even when you tune the machine in, trying to grind with a full width wheel will give you wheel bounce as the machine is fairly flexible.
Yeah, I saw your previous comment too and it's a good call. Most of the wheels I'm looking at are 1/4" and 1/2", also seems to be what guys like Solid Rock (who actually know what they're doing) are using
ifell3 I don’t think they’re listening. They’ve been editing like that since day one. It’s nauseating. I usually just skip to the last few minutes of their videos.
Your tig welding is great, heres why, it did the job fine... are you needing to weld on miltary vessels so each joint holds to the maximum under toreped/missle attack? are you working in the nuclear industry? to people out there wondering about learning / having a go at welding, start from the bottom not compare yourself to the best from the outset.Grind and reweld if needs be, or grind to make the end result look better if you like. your building a dust cover A* in my book Enjoying the process and or result means you want to do more, your now loving practicing and hey your now getting better!
I love what your doing and have considered doing the same and probably will one day. Would you consider changing the X to an air actuator, stepper motors are not continuous motion which could be part of the chatter. Also since you have a mill now, if you re-do the spindle consider tongue and groove the fit up. Better penetration with less heat and warping. Think I have watched the build going on 20 times now getting ideas to start my own project.
In my humble opinion, I do not think you should give up on that motor. Bump it up to 48v and your rpms should be over 6000 rpms. Properly would it would be even higher with more torque, then gear it down as much as possible until it turns 3000 to 3500 rpms Turn a canister for the motor to fit inside of and then you can pump mineral oil through the motor and cycle it to a small radiator for cooling. I seen an advantage here because this is a cnc grinder. The headstock needs to move up and down. The weight saved with this motor is significant. The radiator need not be mounted on the headstock but higher on the fixed portion of the column. Just my 2 cents and I could be wrong. If the frame is stout then a heavier motor could assist with maintaining pressure against the work piece. It is a very interesting conversation.
looking pretty good so far and by far the easyest way to balance is is to dress the diameter true to the y axis and then see where the wheel hits the most metal then just drill a few shallow holes with a masonry bit. and yes please get a surface grinding wheel, that removes at least 50% of the chatter
Glad it has worked out. I wouldn't worry too much about deviation on the first few passes, you will still get a decent level of flatness once you let things spark out. just leave it to make a dozen spring passes ans that will alleviate the pressure and give a consistent cut.
Gonna buy a shirt once I'm not broke. I wish you guys had the option for logo on the front and tools on the back. I'm picky :) but still gonna get the logo on front nothing on back. Thanks! you guys are great and your vids!
dressing the wheel with the diamond on the left hand side of the chuck will avoid the grit flying off and sandblasting the soft steel top of your nice shiny mag chuck . ps... dont grind that poor chuck with that spinny grindy thing, a half inch wide wheel has less mass to be unbalanced. a cable counterweight to preload the up and down of the wheely thing will help, its hard to wind a wheel down without it settling from leadscrew backlash, vibration and ways friction, and taking too much off (the reason for counterweights) at least try dressing the sides of wheel, it will reduce the wobbling to the level of a spin dryer on full speed with a brick thrown in
Direct drive on the spindle with a motor made for constant grinning will help the bog and press fit bearings on the spindle will help with the wobble,dry grinding almost always will give you a chatter on the surface.
I usually like your production decisions and time-gimmicks. But this episode was over the top. Please tone down the background music and just get to the build.
That wobble isnt from the plastic bushings. It's from imbalance in the wheel causing the machine to shake. Also, try dressing the wheel more aggressively by taking .001+ cuts with a fast cross feed
Porosity in the welds is from not cleaning the carbon off the edges after you’d plasma cut it. No chance of getting decent weld if that stuff is not removed.
A sheet metal housing is useful to avoid a thin layer of metallic dust covering everything and anything in your workshop. As for the colour suggestion that you are gonna ignore anyway - make the body orange and the rest black
I think there is something up with your tig shielding gas....maybe turn your flow rate up a but....also I noticed a couple spots where some impurities boiled out of the weld when you fused that outside corner....if you get a little more filler rod in there even though you are mostly fusing, it'll help deoxidize the weld and keep that porosity down
I recently saw a video of somebody's CNC machine and their spindle was one of those Chinese 2.2 kW ones (the water cooled 3 phase ones) but it had a pulley on it (probably to gear it down). I was thinking that something like that would probably work well for your stuff (and they are obviously rated for continuous duty). It was the video about the acrylic pieces for the MMX marble lift that were made by a guy called Alex CNC i think.
I’m hoping for a Lab gear off-white for that physics lab vibe. It’s a precision tool, and nothing makes things seem more reliable and costly than that off-white color lol
I watch all the videos on this surface grinder. I just can't wait to see the finished product. Color ? You guys are not game to put it fluorescent pink and flash green :)
It's Allliiiiiiiiivvvvveeeeee :) Well done, as for the comment about it being a spring, you could always add dampeners to it by getting a decent powered speaker driver (the type you connect to flat panels .. check out Tech Ingredients video on Worlds Best Speakers for $115 or, Speakers for less that $30 video), and then just run it through the ranges to see where the harmonics sit, then just screw or weld on counter weights around the place to help distort any harmonics :D
Parabéns muito bom vídeo!!!Estou construindo torno caseiro,se eu tivesse a metade das ferramentas que vocês tem e boas idéias meu projeto taria bem adiantado!!!Tem meu like!!!Fiquem com Deus!!!
Balancing the wheel is the least of your guys worries. I run a brown and sharpe grinder every day and get parts to almost a mirror finish and I’ve never balanced a wheel.
Maybe welding cart blue, or rotary table yellow or lathe grey... Also, if you want a similar type of motor that can handle more punishment look into ebike mid drive motors
try a smaller and thinner wheel less weight should help with the surface finish and help the poor little motor (also a pair of tapered spindle bearings !)
Very impressive :-)
Grinder and paint makes a welder what he ain't!
This is amazing. I'm seriously impressed.
You guy might want to investigate epoxy granite. It's basically a mix of various sizes of gravel and sand, with a bit of epoxy to bind it. The damping and stiffness properties are as good, if not better than, cast iron. It can be used to make whole machine bases. You could box in the frame of your grinder, and cast in some DIY epoxy granite. Machine tools are heavy for a reason, and adding weight and rigidity would likely go a long way towards improving the precision and surface finish you're able to achieve.
Weight will definitely help reduce chatter, encasing the machine in granite will definitely improve rigidity, so it is a win win strategy for this one.
Pro Tip: When you're tig welding an open joint. Put a piece of .125"-.250" copper flat bar on the backside. One, you were getting porosity because of airflow from the backside of your weld and two, it'll help with bead control while your skills continue to get better. For blending use type 27 flap discs.
P
Nice to see the series continues :-)
One problem I saw what that you were cutting on both passes. One pass would try and cut with the spin of the wheel and the other would cut against the spin of the wheel... You ALWAYS want to cut cut against the spin of the wheel! This leads to a cleaner and more controlled surface.
So, start with you part on the mag-chuck.
And with you part between the wheel and the upright body of the grinder. - If you work cannot fit under the throat of the grinder, then that is a good sign that your part is too big...
Then you want you work to start moving back and forth so that the wheel leaves the work completely on each pass.
Then start shifting the work a quarter of the wheel with with each pass, against the spin of the wheel.
Continue until the work has fully passed under the wheel. The leading edge of the wheel might get worn down by your work... Continuing to the trailing edge of the wheel should make for a more level surface.
If the direction of feed is away from the body of the machine, and you inappropriately look/move away, the work will not automatically crash into the machine... That is why you start with the work between the wheel and machine.
You might want to re-surface the wheel before your final pass... Don't move your part from the chuck though. Just turn the chuck off, add the wheel burr - turn the chuck on again - level the wheel - remove the burr - do the final passes...
------------------------------
Also, after you get your machine level and parallel... Surface grind the surface of your chuck. You will never get parallel flat sides if your table is not both flat and perpendicular to the wheel...
Also, you must have liquid cooling!!! Not only with this help with the dust - if you control the spray - but it will keep the work cool. If the work expands from the grinding, then it does not mater how the machine is set, then work will not be flat when it cools back down...
------------------------------
Hope all of this helps!
This Old Tony will love this episode.
Too much music too much slow mo. reminds me of alec steeles videos, which I can't stomach. Had to jump through this video so maybe I missed the ToT ref but his videos are not in this style. Thankfully...
1873Winchester you sound like a republican lol!
@@justtestingonce Not even american, and if I were I'd vote Bernie
Congrats to your first grind. You gain valuable practical experience. Blend that with theory and you will put your grinder to higher levels. Keep up with your good work and thanks for sharing your journey with the maker community.
Kudos for soldiering this project forward - it is a really big project!
I have watched all these videos back to back today, and I am very impressed with your creation. Really well done lads, you should be proud of yourselves
You guys are talented, I just rather buy the machines from pros that make them, and have a warranty.
Very good craftsmanship, I hope young people watch your videos and get inspired to use their hands.
Thank you.
Your wobble is caused by the fact, the whole machine is way too light for it's job. The "bench" is behaving like a spring, due to its construction. Every slight unbalance in the grinding wheel gets transported thru the frame and then amplified by the springy bench. Have a look what the actual contact-forces are, when you hitting the plate with the wheel. This outward push is easily compensated thru bend in your contruction. You gotta enforce the whole frame and put sandbags or clay in every free spot to get rid of the whobble.
Yes, finally a new video!
Isn’t it fun working with sheet metal? I love that stuff. So much easier to work with than with wood. At least on enclosures.
Black and Orange like your new shirt
bright orange
A crude method to balance the wheel is a matched pair of 123 blocks on a very level surface plate (ie use a machinists level) and a shaft that matches the ID of the wheel, once it has stopped rolling back and forth the centroid of the wheel will be on the bottom so you can then use a carbide drill and take just a partial cut into the side of it to “balance” it. Rinse/ repeat till it balances at any rotation. Physics!
I still think the chatter is the stepper motor to ballscrew coupling, they flex both up and down, do a test with just finger power, the rest is comming on fine 👍
Paint it “Gun Metal Grey”...of course.
Oh yea, please increase the volume of videos! Seriously.
You guys are at the top of my favorite channels. Thanks for all you do.
I started watching this channel after my surgery... It's been 3 years lol this project took long but turned out great 😁
Well done guys, great job
I just finished a machine wiring and safety class and it’s interesting to see how you positioned everything in the box, wires etc. we talk about enclosure positions and it’s interesting to see your ideas were so simple and effective.
Pink, the only acceptable choice that no one yet has dared to attempt!
Thank You for putting the wheel guard on it, however, I think if you extend the guard down at least another inch (perhaps a separate guard piece that can be height adjusted to accommodate wheels of different diameters...hint...hint...) you will get much better dust control.
I saw a lot of dust flying up as well as sideways. A lower guard will catch all the upwards flying dust and direct it sideways where a wide-mouth funnel would catch it and direct it to the bottom of the funnel and a shop-vac hose (that's the set-up my school shop had on it's surface grinder, we could only see the bottom 1/4 inch or so of the wheel), severely reducing the amount of metal dust in the shop as a whole (which will reduce your cleaning/maintenance/repair bills/work).
Other than that, looks good...
Nice job guys Im amazed. Maybe drill holes in the frame and fill it with some sand or so just to give it more stability..
Hey guys this is absolutely amazing ;-)
Congratulations! I mean, it's not done done yet, but it works, after a long journey. Keep up the good work
I love the sagety precautions for the first couple of cuts.
Paint it This-old-Tony yellow. A forgiving color...
This-Old-Yellow
This-Yellow-Tony?
I think considering all the problems you solved and the materials used etc. the outcome was nothing short of fantastic. I vote with the guys that say paint it the same colors as the tee shirt, it will look even better.
Paint it manly-pink please.
Looks good. Still think that dressing your wheel to have a step, to reduce width to say 1/4" would help. Even when you tune the machine in, trying to grind with a full width wheel will give you wheel bounce as the machine is fairly flexible.
Yeah, I saw your previous comment too and it's a good call. Most of the wheels I'm looking at are 1/4" and 1/2", also seems to be what guys like Solid Rock (who actually know what they're doing) are using
Nice job Gentlemen. Keep up the good work.
Congrats on the first grind guys ! cool project
Great channel guys. A lot of interesting ideas. Greetings from Prague.
I love that grey-blue type colour that Hardinge HLV lathes are painted.
Bloody awesome guys, it’s really a great result 👍👍
Fantastic stuff, this has been how long in the making,,,,, don't you just love projects like this.
ifell3
I don’t think they’re listening. They’ve been editing like that since day one. It’s nauseating. I usually just skip to the last few minutes of their videos.
Amazing work guys, as always
Your tig welding is great, heres why, it did the job fine...
are you needing to weld on miltary vessels so each joint holds to the maximum under toreped/missle attack?
are you working in the nuclear industry?
to people out there wondering about learning / having a go at welding, start from the bottom not compare yourself to the best from the outset.Grind and reweld if needs be, or grind to make the end result look better if you like.
your building a dust cover A* in my book
Enjoying the process and or result means you want to do more, your now loving practicing and hey your now getting better!
Welcome back! Thought you had given up!
I love what your doing and have considered doing the same and probably will one day. Would you consider changing the X to an air actuator, stepper motors are not continuous motion which could be part of the chatter. Also since you have a mill now, if you re-do the spindle consider tongue and groove the fit up. Better penetration with less heat and warping. Think I have watched the build going on 20 times now getting ideas to start my own project.
IT HAS TO BE PURPLE !!!
MAKE A DIFFERENCE!!!
Keep up the good work you do your wedding will get better
In my humble opinion, I do not think you should give up on that motor. Bump it up to 48v and your rpms should be over 6000 rpms. Properly would it would be even higher with more torque, then gear it down as much as possible until it turns 3000 to 3500 rpms Turn a canister for the motor to fit inside of and then you can pump mineral oil through the motor and cycle it to a small radiator for cooling. I seen an advantage here because this is a cnc grinder. The headstock needs to move up and down. The weight saved with this motor is significant. The radiator need not be mounted on the headstock but higher on the fixed portion of the column. Just my 2 cents and I could be wrong. If the frame is stout then a heavier motor could assist with maintaining pressure against the work piece. It is a very interesting conversation.
looking pretty good so far
and by far the easyest way to balance is is to dress the diameter true to the y axis and then see where the wheel hits the most metal
then just drill a few shallow holes with a masonry bit. and yes please get a surface grinding wheel, that removes at least 50% of the chatter
Ha, I'm glad you saw my comment, cool to see something I said pop up in a video!
Keep it up, guys! You will succeed! Per aspera ad astra!
Glad it has worked out. I wouldn't worry too much about deviation on the first few passes, you will still get a decent level of flatness once you let things spark out. just leave it to make a dozen spring passes ans that will alleviate the pressure and give a consistent cut.
Rail covers! And I really think you should consider adding bulk. Maybe cast some concrete around the steel lattice framing.
Epoxy granite.
@@danielkruger4305 yes, but but think about the guy's budget....
@@JLK89 It would have been cheaper to just buy one that would work way better. Budget is not the issue here.
Gonna buy a shirt once I'm not broke. I wish you guys had the option for logo on the front and tools on the back. I'm picky :) but still gonna get the logo on front nothing on back. Thanks! you guys are great and your vids!
Can't decide between black with orange accents, or orange with black accents, but either one of those has my vote.
"Red wunz go fastah!" so paint it red. ;)
Glad to see progress on this thing.
dressing the wheel with the diamond on the left hand side of the chuck will avoid the grit flying off and sandblasting the soft steel top of your nice shiny mag chuck .
ps... dont grind that poor chuck with that spinny grindy thing,
a half inch wide wheel has less mass to be unbalanced.
a cable counterweight to preload the up and down of the wheely thing will help,
its hard to wind a wheel down without it settling from leadscrew backlash, vibration and ways friction, and taking too much off (the reason for counterweights)
at least try dressing the sides of wheel, it will reduce the wobbling to the level of a spin dryer on full speed with a brick thrown in
Very very interesting project:)
I hope soon we can buy this on Amazon :)
Looks great!
I love what you guy's are doing, but the music really needs to be ratcheted WAY down. It's pretty bad.
Direct drive on the spindle with a motor made for constant grinning will help the bog and press fit bearings on the spindle will help with the wobble,dry grinding almost always will give you a chatter on the surface.
Good job you guys! With the minimum of tools!!!
emerald green. definitely the best machine color
I usually like your production decisions and time-gimmicks. But this episode was over the top. Please tone down the background music and just get to the build.
congrats. You must be excited. nice edit btw
That’s impressive. TOT.
First sparks!!! very nice.
I think the black, white and orange like your shirts is cool.
That wobble isnt from the plastic bushings. It's from imbalance in the wheel causing the machine to shake. Also, try dressing the wheel more aggressively by taking .001+ cuts with a fast cross feed
Cool! Hey, could you guys do a review of the magnetic chuck? Than would be great.
Thanks
Please?
Paint it the same orange as your logo 😁
If they do that, it would be better not to go whole hog. Sometimes with brighter colors, less is more.
Just cool it with air. These motors are fine when exposed to flowing air. And cudos to where you got with this. 1thau is really impressive!
I recommend attaching End stop switches, to give all the planes a zero. and would make programing the machine easier.
Cover the vertical support and the horizontal support with sheet metal and fill the supports with concrete to stop the vibration harmonics
Porosity in the welds is from not cleaning the carbon off the edges after you’d plasma cut it. No chance of getting decent weld if that stuff is not removed.
Starts lathe refurbishment project , ends up with fully equipped machine shop :)
Paintn black and orange like you logo 😎
Балансировка в помощь. И конструкция легкая и не достаточно жесткая. Охлаждение эмульсией.
I hope you'll be able to get those rail bearings cleaned. For the sake of all that's Holy, protect them please.
A sheet metal housing is useful to avoid a thin layer of metallic dust covering everything and anything in your workshop.
As for the colour suggestion that you are gonna ignore anyway - make the body orange and the rest black
bright grey and some olive green or blue would be sweet on this machine :)
I think there is something up with your tig shielding gas....maybe turn your flow rate up a but....also I noticed a couple spots where some impurities boiled out of the weld when you fused that outside corner....if you get a little more filler rod in there even though you are mostly fusing, it'll help deoxidize the weld and keep that porosity down
I recently saw a video of somebody's CNC machine and their spindle was one of those Chinese 2.2 kW ones (the water cooled 3 phase ones) but it had a pulley on it (probably to gear it down). I was thinking that something like that would probably work well for your stuff (and they are obviously rated for continuous duty). It was the video about the acrylic pieces for the MMX marble lift that were made by a guy called Alex CNC i think.
I’m hoping for a Lab gear off-white for that physics lab vibe. It’s a precision tool, and nothing makes things seem more reliable and costly than that off-white color lol
I watch all the videos on this surface grinder. I just can't wait to see the finished product. Color ? You guys are not game to put it fluorescent pink and flash green :)
Just think about what color looks best, if covered with a nice layer of grime and oil.
Best. Advice.
Paint it pink, the girls will love it.
After listening to your concerns, I am even more curious about the influence of the magnetism from the Mag vice.
It's Allliiiiiiiiivvvvveeeeee :) Well done, as for the comment about it being a spring, you could always add dampeners to it by getting a decent powered speaker driver (the type you connect to flat panels .. check out Tech Ingredients video on Worlds Best Speakers for $115 or, Speakers for less that $30 video), and then just run it through the ranges to see where the harmonics sit, then just screw or weld on counter weights around the place to help distort any harmonics :D
I love hearing "decent grinder" right before the Harbor Freight grinder got a close-up. 😁
you guys are great., some of the best, I know , I work at NASA
Green.....maybe a shade lighter than "make it extreme", copyright yada yada yada......but green. Love the vlogs guys keep them coming
Wait ... how did i only discover your channel now, I got some catching up to do, PS, massive TOT fan ;-)
Parabéns muito bom vídeo!!!Estou construindo torno caseiro,se eu tivesse a metade das ferramentas que vocês tem e boas idéias meu projeto taria bem adiantado!!!Tem meu like!!!Fiquem com Deus!!!
Balancing the wheel is the least of your guys worries. I run a brown and sharpe grinder every day and get parts to almost a mirror finish and I’ve never balanced a wheel.
wat you could do after you pressed the dimple in the metal plat is repress it with the hollow die over the dimple ontoo a flat piece of steel
Don't operate the grinder motor above the Mag vice it may damage it, opposing magnetic influences. Just a thought
Maybe welding cart blue, or rotary table yellow or lathe grey... Also, if you want a similar type of motor that can handle more punishment look into ebike mid drive motors
Minty green!
try a smaller and thinner wheel less weight should help with the surface finish and help the poor little motor (also a pair of tapered spindle bearings !)
Same colour as the lathe 🤙
Is this still going to grind the lathe ways? I can't remember what happened to that.
Pink! Please make it pink!
OMG. Is this the right universe where the surface grinder will be actually built? Or do I need to keep bouncing through the portals?
Candy automotive Red would be awesome