Nice job! I also have a 2010 318D John Deere skid steer with 3700 hrs on it, less than half of what you have on your unit. If I ever run into the problem you had after watching your video I think I can handle it too. Thank you for posting this. Curiosity makes me wonder what you decided about getting a dog. If you do make sure it will be one you want for yourself because it will be your dog when all is said and done, trust me on that. There is nothing like a having a good dog to hang out with you. Oh yeah, the thunder while you were installing the bearing assembly was priceless. :)
@@factotumlife any idea what a GRINDING noise would indicate, happens at any RPM comes from drive train area, sounds like a bag of rocks in a coffee mill? While engaging motion forward or back both sides.
Doesn't make noise unless moving? Does it seem to coordinate with the wheels moving? i.e. if the wheels are moving faster is it louder/rhythmic or slower wheel move less rhythmic? if you are turning right or left does that change the noise?
@@factotumlife even from side to side.. somewhat if not moving... steering will 'slump' requiring operator to hold neutral position on controls.. gets louder if park engaged and controls left to 'slump' .. similar sound to pushing a load while RPM is too low.. I'm not the owner and I apologize for lack of 'make, model,operation hours,year of manufacture ... 😃 I'm thinking on buying the beast, you either make payments in this life or make repairs. Thanks for your time and consideration.
Perhaps some type of hydraulic issue, or something not quite right with the linkage control. I guess it depends on how the controls are suppose to maintain neutral, but if the noise still occurs in forward or backwards I might be more inclined to say hydraulic issues. Oil weight in hydraulics and manufacturer recommendations might be something to look at - I switched from 15w40 to 5w-40 and the machine isn't nearly as noisy with lighter oil in hydraulics. Wish you success with your equipment search!
An alternate solution would be to have the seal surface machined to a new tolerance, source a new seal to match the new surface dimensions and the sealing surface is new as well as the seal and you should not have to wonder about the sealing surface being up to snuff. Just a thought. If it had been me I would have gone the machine the surface route versus doing all of the work and taking a chance on the sealing surface leaking and taking it back apart and still resourcing the bearing assembly. Nick, North West Farmer
Shafts shot from fine particulate contamination in the hydraulic oil more than likely. That’s something you’d need to replace along with all seals and bearings.
Nice job. I need to change the same oil seals. Do you still have the part numbers? I really appreciate it if you could give me that information. Best Regards
AT441786 ... Is the John Deere seal kit part # I bought. That # was for a 318D single speed with manual controls. If you have a different setup you can search here: partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/ after input of your machine model under 'parts search', enter in 'seal', and you will be able to quickly scroll to find what you are looking for. If you have a 318D with Manual controls and are looking for the actual oil seal numbers I replaced, send me an email at the address located in the youtube channel "about". I can take photos of the old seals I replaced and email them in about two weeks - the seals are at another location in storage.
If the grooves do not rework out with 600 grit paper you’ll need to replace the shaft or mill it down where the seal rides and replace the shaft seal with one which fits the new Id.
The brake friction discs in this application didn't have any rotational indicators so I was able to just assemble. You don't want a situation where friction disc on friction disc occurs. The design intent is a friction disc sandwiched between metal. If I am interpreting your last question correctly the friction discs can be assembled in different positioning as long as you maintain the correct metal positioning with regards to the correct bottom metal (start of friction pack) and end the pack with the correct top metal (end of friction pack) The middle metals appeared to me as the same.
@@factotumlife I’m having a lot of side play. I keep packing with grease but then it pops the dust plug out of the end of the pivot pin. New Holland shows two washers preventing any side play but my machine has none to prevent that.
@@andrewh5988 I'm assuming your talking about the lowest right/left bucket pins (attach boom to quick attach). I have a bucket pin kit on the shelf that looks like this: www.tractorpartsasap.com/bucket-pin-kit-new-john-deere-t259403-t255859-154276.html If that lowest dust shield is popping out I have to wonder if the bucket pin bushing or quick tatch bushing is walking around inside the actual housing and hydraulically pushing grease against seal. Although, I think the bucket pin bushing included in the above link is on the boom side. There is a second bushing on the quick attach hardware (see last link) side where the dust shield is. www.tractorpartsasap.com/bushing-bucket-pivot-quick-attach-new-167966.html But, I haven't had mine apart yet.
Take this for what its worth, I haven't had my bucket pins apart... I believe the nut end of the bucket pin kit is behind the dust shield and the washer is simply a washer that helps spread the pressure on the nut side and the opposite pin head side against the bushings. If you were having a lot of slop in that area have you checked the nut tension behind the dust shield. According to JD manual the "boom pin cap screw" torque is 236 ft-lbs for the 318D,319D,320D, and 323D. This is for the boom-to-coupler pin and nut. If your pin nut torque is correct I would look for evidence of a busing moving side to side. The fitment of the pin in the bushing is normally sloppy forward and backwards, but side to side should be fairly fixed, unless the bushings are moving.
The part # for my manual is TM11299 - Manual Controls. The link below should populate the entire list of all manuals available including control type for a 318D. Of course you can change the model and search for anything. www.johndeeretechinfo.com/search?p0=model&p0_v=318D&pattr=p0
My manual doesn't distinguish, but you might see more from a parts diagram. See Link: partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/62282/referrer/navigation/pgId/365559
Nice job!
I also have a 2010 318D John Deere skid steer with 3700 hrs on it, less than half of what you have on your unit.
If I ever run into the problem you had after watching your video I think I can handle it too. Thank you for posting this.
Curiosity makes me wonder what you decided about getting a dog. If you do make sure it will be one you want for yourself
because it will be your dog when all is said and done, trust me on that. There is nothing like a having a good dog to hang out with you.
Oh yeah, the thunder while you were installing the bearing assembly was priceless. :)
Great videos thank you for sharing
Great video
Drop that part in the deep freezer next time for a couple hours before pressing it in. Probably fall in next time.
Groovy. Let's see if that seal tolerance stayed . See ya next episode
One year later...still holding!
@@factotumlife any idea what a GRINDING noise would indicate, happens at any RPM comes from drive train area, sounds like a bag of rocks in a coffee mill? While engaging motion forward or back both sides.
Doesn't make noise unless moving? Does it seem to coordinate with the wheels moving? i.e. if the wheels are moving faster is it louder/rhythmic or slower wheel move less rhythmic? if you are turning right or left does that change the noise?
@@factotumlife even from side to side.. somewhat if not moving... steering will 'slump' requiring operator to hold neutral position on controls.. gets louder if park engaged and controls left to 'slump' .. similar sound to pushing a load while RPM is too low..
I'm not the owner and I apologize for lack of 'make, model,operation hours,year of manufacture ... 😃 I'm thinking on buying the beast, you either make payments in this life or make repairs. Thanks for your time and consideration.
Perhaps some type of hydraulic issue, or something not quite right with the linkage control. I guess it depends on how the controls are suppose to maintain neutral, but if the noise still occurs in forward or backwards I might be more inclined to say hydraulic issues. Oil weight in hydraulics and manufacturer recommendations might be something to look at - I switched from 15w40 to 5w-40 and the machine isn't nearly as noisy with lighter oil in hydraulics. Wish you success with your equipment search!
An alternate solution would be to have the seal surface machined to a new tolerance, source a new seal to match the new surface dimensions and the sealing surface is new as well as the seal and you should not have to wonder about the sealing surface being up to snuff. Just a thought. If it had been me I would have gone the machine the surface route versus doing all of the work and taking a chance on the sealing surface leaking and taking it back apart and still resourcing the bearing assembly. Nick, North West Farmer
Thanks for watching!
Sauer danfoss made the yellow drive motors too. john deere just put a sticker over the data plate before they painted them yellow.
Shafts shot from fine particulate contamination in the hydraulic oil more than likely. That’s something you’d need to replace along with all seals and bearings.
Nice job.
I need to change the same oil seals. Do you still have the part numbers?
I really appreciate it if you could give me that information.
Best Regards
AT441786 ... Is the John Deere seal kit part # I bought. That # was for a 318D single speed with manual controls. If you have a different setup you can search here: partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/
after input of your machine model under 'parts search', enter in 'seal', and you will be able to quickly scroll to find what you are looking for. If you have a 318D with Manual controls and are looking for the actual oil seal numbers I replaced, send me an email at the address located in the youtube channel "about". I can take photos of the old seals I replaced and email them in about two weeks - the seals are at another location in storage.
do you guys have a video from 280 ll series driver pump motor?
Great video.How is it doing?
Thank you for taking the time to watch the video. So far so good on the skid loader.
If the grooves do not rework out with 600 grit paper you’ll need to replace the shaft or mill it down where the seal rides and replace the shaft seal with one which fits the new Id.
do those brake disc's have a rotational bias or can they be dropped in randomly? and while Im asking are most of them interchangable?
The brake friction discs in this application didn't have any rotational indicators so I was able to just assemble. You don't want a situation where friction disc on friction disc occurs. The design intent is a friction disc sandwiched between metal. If I am interpreting your last question correctly the friction discs can be assembled in different positioning as long as you maintain the correct metal positioning with regards to the correct bottom metal (start of friction pack) and end the pack with the correct top metal (end of friction pack) The middle metals appeared to me as the same.
What were the torque specs?
John Deere quotes $2500 just for the axle Do you know a better source
Have you done any repair work on your Johndeere pivot pins that connect to the quick attach?
I have not. Having problems with yours?
@@factotumlife I’m having a lot of side play. I keep packing with grease but then it pops the dust plug out of the end of the pivot pin. New Holland shows two washers preventing any side play but my machine has none to prevent that.
@@andrewh5988 I'm assuming your talking about the lowest right/left bucket pins (attach boom to quick attach). I have a bucket pin kit on the shelf that looks like this:
www.tractorpartsasap.com/bucket-pin-kit-new-john-deere-t259403-t255859-154276.html
If that lowest dust shield is popping out I have to wonder if the bucket pin bushing or quick tatch bushing is walking around inside the actual housing and hydraulically pushing grease against seal. Although, I think the bucket pin bushing included in the above link is on the boom side. There is a second bushing on the quick attach hardware (see last link) side where the dust shield is. www.tractorpartsasap.com/bushing-bucket-pivot-quick-attach-new-167966.html
But, I haven't had mine apart yet.
Take this for what its worth, I haven't had my bucket pins apart... I believe the nut end of the bucket pin kit is behind the dust shield and the washer is simply a washer that helps spread the pressure on the nut side and the opposite pin head side against the bushings. If you were having a lot of slop in that area have you checked the nut tension behind the dust shield. According to JD manual the "boom pin cap screw" torque is 236 ft-lbs for the 318D,319D,320D, and 323D. This is for the boom-to-coupler pin and nut. If your pin nut torque is correct I would look for evidence of a busing moving side to side. The fitment of the pin in the bushing is normally sloppy forward and backwards, but side to side should be fairly fixed, unless the bushings are moving.
Thanks for update! Earlier comment you mentioned lots of side movement, did you find where that was coming from.
Do u have a part number for that manual you have in order for you to do your work?
The part # for my manual is TM11299 - Manual Controls. The link below should populate the entire list of all manuals available including control type for a 318D. Of course you can change the model and search for anything.
www.johndeeretechinfo.com/search?p0=model&p0_v=318D&pattr=p0
My manual doesn't distinguish, but you might see more from a parts diagram. See Link:
partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/62282/referrer/navigation/pgId/365559
Did u ever get that dog?
Not yet