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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ก.พ. 2013
- In this video , we talk about using resistors in securrity alarm panels. Why it is important to place them at the EOL or End of line. We also look at alarm basic circuits.
The EOL allows the control panel to supervise the field wiring for open or short circuit . - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Man this video is golden for me. Apprentice fire alarm tech in commercial. And this just made things real clear for me. Thanks a lot
thank you for taking the time to show us ,,I will say thanks for all the thousands that watch your vids.
Thanks for showing why this is better. Now it will be easier to remember whenever I'm in doubt again.
this is a very useful video, i was trained before and knew the why EOL resistor is a must, but just in theory, you experiment and explain more details and prove what i was trained and told is pretty right..
still there are a wonderful peoples in this world.thanks man for your help.
+solitude esttriste NP thanks for watching
@@Krakology can you explain about how conventional sounder activated in addressable fire system how sounder get signal from panel through smoke detector please explain or send some link for this
I have two words for you.... Great video! the best explanation ive ever seen. Good job
I'm installing a new Alarm system in my house (Pima - Hunter PRO), and couldn't understand their explanation about the ELO resistor, till now :-).
Thank you so much for helping me understand this issue.
Great video, explained it quickly and efficiently.
Love the explanation. I just use n/c loops. Especially now with wireless. If a wire is shorting out and I can’t use a different pair, sorry time to go wireless. Resistors are mostly used for supervision in commercial circuits where someone may try and tamper with wiring. But that’s more on the really big commercial side. Residential and small commercial we don’t use EOL. I hate EOL’s cause I find it harder to troubleshoot why a zone keeps false’ing. I work better with uninterrupted circuits. I totally understand why you would do this, but it just complicates things. Dealing with resistors at the panel is much more convenient.
Thanks so much for taking the time to make this video. Very helpful and informative.
This was excellent. I'm putting the in now to upgrade my home wiring setup. Will ensure no issues.
thank you, explained it so much better than my textbook
Really helpful, easy to understand. Thanks for taking the time
Thanks, such a simple concept, but very effective. Well explained.
Very helpful and easy to understand. Thank you!
Hello Thank you for the video i know it's a older one but it helped me a lot. I never know what the resistors are for. But i saw a lot of other videos of people adding resistors but never say what they are for. So again thank you.
This is very helpful. thank you!
really appreciate the explanation. Very thorough and the demo helped solidify. thanks
Very useful! Thanks for this!!
Thanks for taking your time doing this video. This is my issue and I have no one to explain!! Thanks again
Troy T Dinh hey bro. Can u explain this by vietnamese
thanks for the video, was very confused why there were a bunch of resistors at the control panel. Turns out whoever did the install years and years ago never watched this video!
This video is GREAT, thank you so much
Great clip. Thanks mate.
I understood that perfectly. Thank you.
thank you for this explanation!! i have asked why to most of the people i have worked with but no one ever could tell me why.
John Doe Because they don't know either or they just don't want you to know . Sad but truth :-(
If you are in the industry and haven't figured this our on your own, you shouldn't be in the industry. It's not rocket science. The purpose of the EOL is the one of the basics.
Thank you very much for this video.
Thanks, this was really useful!
Thanks for the explanation. Great work brother.
Awesome man. Thanks. Nice and clear
Thanks for a great video,
Very good information.
Thank you for sharing
You are an excellent teacher...
Very helpful, thanks.
Great explanation...thank you very much
clear and concise, thank you
If it were me, I would have the panel programmed for EOL resistor operation. The resistor offers the best of both worlds. Open and closed circuit operation. And, if you are an alarm hobbyist, the resistor is a must. You can tie resistors in series and do some cool stuff. The resistor is fun to play with in alarm systems. And, especially with fire zones...the trouble condition can be demonstrated to friends and stuff about what a trouble condition would look like on an alarm system. And, you can't do that without a resistor. And, especially if you have smoke detectors in your system, the trouble condition can be used as a reminder to put the smoke detector back. Especially me...everyone has done this, you've done this, I've done this. In fact, every time I do work in my house, I stand on a step ladder or a piano stool and twist off the smoke detector and drop it in a desk drawer and then put it right back when finished. Well, if you don't have the resistor, the trouble condition won't work and then, you could easily forget to put the smoke detector back. I would highly recommend keeping the resistor.
Thank you for sharing valuable information 💖
thank you very much man..You are an excellent teacher... Salute..
thanks for your effort sir. u such a nice guy!
Brilliant explanation 👍
Simple and perfect explanation
Great video helped me so much!
Thanks for the explanation
very nice video now I can let my tech know why this is importent
thanks, it's very helpful...
Great video 👍
brilliant very useful thank you
Excellent explanation.
Great video.
thnks for the lesson bro 👍😁
Thank you for spending the time to make this. Clarified things for me alot.
awesome video. I'm an apprentice. you explain it so well and make it so easy. I really don't the theory work but after watching this the theory of it is not so daunting.
thanks for your video
your welcome
If you're going to do this professionally, it's a good idea to learn some (very) basic electronics. Makes understanding things like the purpose of EOL resistors really simple to understand (and things like this video would take 1 minute instead of 8). Without basic electronics, you'll be rote memorizing stuff, and will then get things wrong when you forget that stuff. Basic electronics is not too difficult - just think of water instead of electricity and each component will become clear. For example, a lot of people find voltage calculations with resistors in parallel difficult to grasp. How can putting 2 resistors allow MORE current to flow, and not less. If you think 'water', it all just makes sense - even capacitors and transistors!
Thank you, your explanations are very clear and usefull for me, I have one question the movement detectors are wired like the smoke detector. (it has an open description). Thank you in advance.
Thanks for explanation
Awesome video
This helped me thanks
Same thing with commercial cameras now a days. I’ll run the wire, install the cameras and do all the connections. But don’t ask me to get it online. Cameras are usually all plug in play. But when they want to secure it all and get it working over a local and external network, that’s up to the IT guys.
thank you very much man.. Salute..
your welcome
Nice video thanks
nice explanation
Ok, I will wire it in series and see what happen. Thank you.
thanks it was good to know
nice explanation tnx
You can also use normal closed contacts and use 1 resistor in series with the contact and one parralel to the contact. For example if you use 3K3 resistors, in a normal non alarm state it will read 3K3, in alarm state it will read 6K6, when the conductor is cut it will read out off limit, and when it's shorted it's about 0 ohms. It's the standard way of working here. For fire detectors which are normally open we use the same method as you do.
Very nice video
Good evening. Can you incorporate a maglock into the alarm panel so that we have an intruder detection as well as an access control working togethee
Glad it helped
Thank you sir.
Hi, can you confirm on a smoke detector that the resistor goes across the positive and negative terminals. If so can I use the spare negative and positive terminals on the device itself?
Thank you
Thanks!
thanks explains alot.
O.k.....i have just bought a jet ski, i need to run a wire from my house alarm panel, about 10ft long to the jet ski, am going to loop a wire too and from the ski, i suppose i would (using two wires) run say my blue out to the ski, with my red, (the wires i use) and could just wire either end to a resistor to do the same job.....? it's only like running them to a magnet.....?.....yes...? and if that would be fine, what resitor would you recommend......thank you for your help.......
thanks much!!!
Usually with just one resistor at the last sensor in the loop/furthest from the panel, but some systems (like the Vista series) allow for using double loops with two resistors on a single zone.
Please load more videos related to F & G system wiring.
Thanks. Been looking for an answer for the need for a resistor. My door contacts also have a resistor between terminals? Don't know why. Also, are resistors directional? Regards Phillip
resistors are not directional. Diodes are. For the reason for your contact to have the resistor across both terminals.. Well had to say without more info.. My first 2 thoughts.. A, maybe normally open contact, b, they are trying to correct the resistance with a seprate resistor.
That's a great demo! My only question is why they bothered to put the "eol" resistors in my control panel, where there's no difference between a closed switch and a short... Just a necessary current limiter?
+Mark O some panels cant be programmed to not look for the resistor.. it needs to see that load.. so people cheat and put at panel.
Kraka, How many of these sets do you think i would need to run an RV refrig, say a 31" lcd, a small water pump and maybe a radio with some surround speakers?
+Sean Brooks you need 42
Great explanation as to why the resistor should be at the end of the line but it is a pity that magnet manufacturers make allowance for these in the magnet switch.
Good afternoon, can I please ask for your help? I have a Ademco Microtech Galaxy 8 C055 alarm, and want to attach a GSM communicator to it. It can work with either NO or NC outputs. I just dont kmow in wich terminals I have to connect the communicator to the alarm, and can´t find any schematics online. Can you help me? Thanks in advance.
nice!
Great
Thanks for the video. I'm installing my own alarm system at my house. I'm all caught up in the thing about how people can fool the magnet switches, like the ones in your video. Can you recommend a good magnet switch for me? Much appreciated.
There are lots of comments about magnetic switches and how to fool them, or quality. Can I just say, you should only use them as a means of being able to be sure a door is closed when the alarm sets, and to be able to initiate a countdown entry timer from the final exit door. Very rarely these days to people break doors down when breaking in, far easier, and in most cases quieter, to push a panel out of a door, or go through a window in which case the contact isn't broken and the alarm is not triggered. Motion detection is really what is required, of good quality of course.
@@philharrison8857 Actually most break ins are people kicking in back doors. Hardly hear about window break ins. I get my info from jobs I do for the people who have gotten broken into.”
I have a nice little supervised (1.8 KOhm) four zone panel built in to a programmable keypad. I ran all my wiring to a closet behind the keypad and thru-walled the keypad feeds to my closet backbox. This mini-panel also has two supervised open inputs (emerg/fire) and a fixed/momentary contact output for aux out.
I have two doors that must be individually zoned, that's zone one and two. I have eight windows, four on zone three and four on zone four. Each run was a homer AND each contact was supervised at the contact (1.8 KOhm resistor). Now, I've discovered a problem, as you can imagine. The panel wants to see 1.8K, the series-ed windows on each zone offer 7.2K of resistance which looks like a short to the panel.
Do I have to remove three of the resistors on the window contacts so that the panel only sees one resistor? Or maybe, I should have divided by four and put .45KOhm resistors on each window, the combined offering 1.8K at the panel. As long as the zone threshold sees an open (drop of .45KOhm), this should work. Putting the windows in series (at the back box) won't work - do the math.
Didn't USP have built-in resistored contacts at one time?
Most people only use one resistor . The rest leave off.
Kraka069
That was just a fun question. I worked in the security alarm industry for 30 years. The panel I was referring to was a modified MOOSE keypad system. Great little panel. They had some issues with sub-standard power supplies back in the '80's, fixed that and became a pretty good choice for the low end market. I preferred NAPCO (they still around?). Solid performance, many featured and properly priced. They weren't RADIONICS but I preferred their dealer network over RADIONICS.
napco sux. GE or ademco gets my vote
Kraka069
well, i don't have any idea what panels are good or bad anymore, but we always referred to the junior installers and do it your selfers to ademco. real pro's used napco, radionics, dsl, dsr and accutech before your time. nowadays ademco might be the best, but it was the stepping stone alarm panel of its day.
First time i see it can cut or open a line just only pressing the cable with a plier....can you explain that? greets
This isn't only about preventing wiring trouble. If I was a burglar, hell bent on getting access to a building to steal something, I could theoretically get past the alarm if I really wanted to. Perhaps the building is open during the day, I could go inside and short out some window sensors. Or at night, cut or break the glass out of a window, reach through, and short the sensor. Then, you can open the window without setting off the alarm. With the end of line resistor, if somebody were to do this, as soon as you short the wire, the alarm would go off.
@Christopher Jones: I think that's what they are for in most cases, but that wasn't mentioned in the video. In fact I'm not sure the video really summarised why EOL resistors exist at all, more just a non-electronics discussion of what happens when you put EOL resistors into a circuit.
You can't cover the RIGHT sensors like you used to...they go into tamper even with the alarm unset...
@@MrLibbyloulou what you mention here is anti masking, these are sensors of a high quality and grade which have this feature and are wired in line with EOL resistor wiring, an extension of it if you like.
Glad i could help
Basically what he's saying is by using a resistor at EOL you are supervising the entire wire and device which is the correct way of wiring a security device.
@D Smith Which is the wrong way to supervise a circuit. It's the lazy way. No disrespect, but at that point, there's no reason to have a resistor at all. You're not truly supervising anything. Resistor at EOL is actually supervising the entire zone. Resistor at the panel is not supervising to EOL device. In commercial you should not being sv at panel. Reisi I don't even think SV is necessary but to each their own.
Very nice explanation. Excuse me , What is written on Your Left Hand ?
that says jacob in Japanese . other arm says chase, My boys.
i now also have aurebesh that says my daughters name as well
Many sensors are wired in series on one zone, not sure how a control panel would need to be or could be programmed and wired to do resistors at each sensor for an in series closed circuit zone.
Brilliantly explained...you may of saved someone going to prison {:-) haha
commercial we always use at device also unless doing some-kinda special bypass switch or something
Am I the last guy left who still services Morse MDC-16's!.....one of the best systems ever. And then there's the Optex-Morse Genysis POS!
RadioReprised yup
LOL!...I have about 300 of them monitored and like a Radionics 41 or 61..........they just won't DIE!
The best reason for putting the resistor at the device is to monitor the wire for tampering while the alarm system is armed.
So do you have a video how to wire eolr on fire strobe
I don't think a burglar alarm system requires bell circuit supervision......... fire alarms it just jumps across your data circuit at the end of line.........for a class B circuit.............. but fire alarms you can have class A circuits and class B circuits.................... class A circuits you loop the circuit back to the panel and monitor the circuit from the panel and put your resister in the panel.... you also have to program the fire system to which type you use
It's all in the name..
Good demo with the multimeter, but the explanation was kind of all over the place with the major point not made clearly. If you understand high school physics, easiest way to thing about EOL resistors is: they allow an alarm system to detect THREE states via a voltage read instead of two. The states are: 1) Open circuit - no current/voltage, 2) Normal close, with a reduced voltage due to the resistor and 3) Abnormal close, ie. a full short without the resistor being in-line. Of course, your alarm system needs to be able to measure these 3 states, but almost all have EOL resistor detection to do so.
Hello I have a DSC 1832 alarm system. I have a motion sensor that keeps tripping the alarm off at times. I replaced the sensor and still the alarm is being set off. Can you please help?
Darin Ghisayawan whats in the room? Animals? Balloons or anything that moves? A/c vents? Whats the environment like?
Kraka069 it's in my attic, so there's not much there. No animals, people or anything. The system will arm Ok and then sometime after the alarm will sound, very annoying when it goes off at 3am. Sometimes the zone will be open and it has to be bypassed to arm the system.
Attic is not the place for a motion detector. If you're worried about someone breaking in through the attic to contact switch on your attic hatch
unless it is a microwave motion detector it shouldn't be in an attic, and if it is microwave, it can go through walls like sheetrock.. and is not normal to use in a residential site....... more than likely it isn't a motion detector in your attic, if it is anything, it is a heat detector, if it is on the alarm, but the fact you can arm it, .... if it is a heat detector, it would be a fixed temperature heat detector and would only be able to go into alarm once, and you wouldn't be able to get it out of alarm to arm it again until it was replaced.............its probably not that...... but you said you replaced the sensor, so I'm guessing you know for sure it is a motion in the attic?.................there are a few different types of motion detectors... Infrared and microwave are the two most common....... no one would put infrared detectors in an attic, it gets hot and stays hot, all the motion would see is red all the time and not pick up body heat.....microwave is usually for commercial jobs, where the motion has to see through boxes and around corners and gets stopped by concrete walls..... people put them in houses sometimes, but not often., ... you said it is going off at night when you sleep and if it is a motion and was programmed as a motion in the panel, it would get bypassed when you arm the system in stay mode to sleep, so a motion anywhere wouldn't set it off at 3 am, if the system was armed and you were sleeping............................. I think what your looking at in the attic isn't connected to the alarm system, its not common to put motions in attics, and an 1832 is a normal residential panel.............. ive seen a lot of homeowners think their AC powered smoke detectors are hooked to the system, or think some other device is part of the alarm, when it isn't...... the only thing I don't understand is what you replaced........... if it turns out to be a microwave detector somehow... they don't just go off with animals or people, they will bounce microwaves off anything that moves, so the slightest breeze could move insulation and make it go off...... the infrared one would have to see body heat move................. ive heard people say balloons but I don't see how, its helium, its not hot, unless it moves in front of a 60W light and distorts the heat signature............ an AC vent or sun on a window would do it... not likely at 3am in an attic........................ if it really turns out to be a motion detector in your attic, and it for sure is the zone tripping, you might have squirrels in your attic, they get in there a lot....................... did you have the alarm company install the motion in your attic or was it there when you moved in....... you would of had to specifically request a motion in the attic..... so if you did, why?
Great video. Now I know that my installer totally screwed up my entire system!!