A buddy found this attachment brand new and still in it's box at a flea market for $20 and got it for me since he doesn't have a radial arm saw, but knew about my old Craftsman. I said "thanks" since I didn't have a clue about it. Now I know I owe him a BIG thanks. Good job, Bernie.
I will say the trickiest part about using this attachment would be the initial set up, which involves making sure that the planer is parallel to your table, I had to adjust my "0" notch on my radial arm saw. You'll notice on my video at the 4:48 mark that the left side of the board shows a few marks where one side of the planer was cutting deeper than the other side, so I made the slight adjustment before proceeding. And thx for the compliment
I love seeing someone who is not afraid to understand and use a radial arm saw for more than just cutting to length. There is so much more versatility there, and they are getting cheaper. 👍 and subscribed!
My old craftsman was grabbed from the scrap pile twenty years ago and fitted very quickly with an eight ft table and has been my “portable” lol for mainly siding in all forms and especially soffit and facia work in aluminum. It fits nicely in my suburban and once on a job site and set up it provides a nice work table for bending, will cut full width soffit in multiple layers. The length is easily marked on the cut side and support on the other. It also becomes your go to for ripping anything on the job site. It’s beat up and just barely maybe sorta square but it’s been used to cut thousands of feet of product. This attachment is awesome! I have another saw that is in much better shape that would need to be set up properly for accurate safe work on heavier materials in the shop. Certainly an undervalued tool that with an unwarranted scary reputation. Man what a great attachment!
Omg this video was really fun to watch. Seeing that beautiful piece of wood restored so easily without a super expensive planar, was really amazing. Beautiful end result! I found this exact same model radial arm saw for $100, and I'm going to pick it up tomorrow. I wasn't sure if I should get it, because I recently had a severe kickback on a table saw with no riving knife, but my life dream has always been to have a nice old radial arm saw.
I just bought a 1959 Accu Arm to replace my RAS that was lost in a fire. It came with this attachment. I can’t wait to use it. This attachment is one of the reasons I purchased my current RAS over others. It also came with a kit that I haven’t had time to study. It’s currently in my storage unit, but looks like it’s for routing or dato cuts.
Very handy attachment. Even those of us that have both a jointer and a planer, our jointer typically has a narrower capacity than our planer. Or in the case of reclaimed lumber, or random slab cut out of a log with a chainsaw, don't really want to run through delicate jointer or planer blades until it is cleaned up. You can basically double the width of stock you can plane by securing it to a piece of MDF, planing half of it, then spin it around and plane the other. Additional support and clamping may be required. Even on pieces like you are working on, I'd probably secure it to a piece of MDF so it can't rock.
I have a 1963 vintage DeWalt 1400, I use it for everything, got rid of my tablesaw years ago and found what Mr. Sawdust said to be true: in only 20% of the footprint that a tablesaw requires, it can do it all and more. I first surface planed a glued up end table top using the 3- winged shaper attachment, now that'l make a man outta ya! ☺
Thanks for the post I just got the attachments they were from my grandfather didn't even know we had them and was asking for a planner, I excited to try this
Excellent buddy, with a little history behind the tool as well, sweet. Hope the video encourages you to use it, as well as helping you to be comfortable with the attachment as well
I’m interested in one of these. Seems like it work well as a thickness planer once you jointed a pice of wood that would lay flat against the table and fence
I love your sense of caution with this thing. It indeed looks scary as hell! I am looking for a cost effective way to plane without trying (surely unsuccessfully) to justify a planer to the wife.
Great video. Finally someone shows instead of tells the different uses of the radial arm saw, Bernie where can I get a planning attachment like that for my older Craftsman Radial Arm Saw that is similar to your? Thank you for a great video. Please show more attachments and their uses.
Bernie, that planner is for raise panel on kitchen doors..... try planning like ripping. ............ go with the grain not across, you get better finish. feed the wood into it like a planner. be safe
Thanks for posting this video a while ago i was searching on Ebay. For cwetain parts on a older Thickness planer i was going to buy and fix up for personal use in that search i kept seeing the Craftsman Radial Arm saw attachments that were reasonably priced and ive been wondering how they performed i figured their may be something on TH-cam and was quite impressed with your. Demonstation as it looks like i does better than What i expected it to do I wouldn’t want to do large quantities of lumber with it b it for. Doing one or two. Boards Here and there it looks fine i am a retired Woodworker who did 20 years of fast pace production work. And now I go at a much slower an enjoyable pace that as a general rule doesn’t have a strict deadline to meet so i beleive i may just pick one up and use it on a dedicated saw I my shop
Very glad to share what I found out about this attachment, enjoy the slower pace which you can set for yourself. I use my woodshop mainly in the winter months because we are out on our Goldwing motorcycle during the summer
Very nice. I have the planer attachment for my 1971 DeWalt Power Shop. I set it up once and it scared the bejeezers out of me. Your video helped show me my errors. Mine has a guard and specific fence. Now I realize I need neither.
Yea Ron the first time I put this attachment on, it made me a bit nervous also. But I actually trued up a really warped oak dining room table top with it, by cutting the tabletop into 12" rips then using the radial arm saw with this attachment, followed by my planer. Then biscuit joined everything back together and I was able to save the table for a Christmas gift to my wifes daughter
I agree with that whole heartedly, the cutting width of the entire attachment is 3 1/2" so my max pass would be only 1 1/2" so the cutting pressure is always directed towards the fence
Thanks great vid, own a Craftsman RAS and have seen that attachment in the manual but could only imagine how it works in real life. Many of the tools of old had great engineering but you had to pay attention to what you are doing, something that today seems to be engineered out of tools. I also have a dewalt accessory guard for this option that goes around the sides of the cutter like a shield..
I have not ever seen an accessory guard, but since the carbide teeth don't extend outside the housing and there was only about 3/8" of the carbide teeth below the housing exposed (which is adjustable) I felt pretty comfortable with it. It was just that initial start up and then letting it get to full rpm's that made me a bit nervous since I didn't know how well balanced it was.
There is suppose to be a guard around that head. I've a DeWalt radial arm and it has the same attachment. Try to get yourself an attachment guard on ebay, it will make it a lot less scary to use.
you made an awesome demonstration of your RAS as a planer: I have been looking all over but I can find one even old old as it seems, nobody makes them anymore. I found a guy mention Gilmore Pattern Works in Tulsa, but then they no longer exist. I hope someone out there has he 32765 I am willing to buy it. Thanks
@@Tomdic Thanks for this video: I got a RAS and the attachment now. Love it and thanks for the tips. You are awesome and kind to share your knowledge with us all.
Very good video, thanks for making it. I have on order a 29513 rotary planer (eBay $42 total) to use with my Rockwell (Delta) radial arm saw. I appreciate your measurement of the planer hex nut recess, my arbor nut is 1.0" wide so it will fit. I have a similar Craftsman rotary planer (9-2745) for my drill press , JT33 mount, but for several reasons it's not very useful nor safe to use, and this planer will replace it. And I do have a molding guard for my radial saw. But, please please lose your long sleeves and wedding ring. I don't mind you not having a guard because if you contact the rotating planer body with your skin not much will happen, but it is so easy for fabric to get snagged by a rotary tool. Years ago I had a farmer uncle and he was using his tractor with a towed implement driven by a rotating power takeoff shaft (PTO), with no guard, sin number 1. For some reason he stopped and dismounted his tractor while the PTO was still rotating at idle speed, sin number 2. Somehow the PTO snagged his pants leg. Fortunately he was able to quickly grab onto a tractor wheel and hang on for dear life while the PTO rapidly undressed him. He was wearing bib overalls, the loose fitting kind with shoulder straps, and the shoulder straps easily gave way. If he had been wearing pants with a belt or full body coveralls he would have been a goner. Just goes to show you.
Good God man. I did not expect your story to end this way. as soon as you mentioned him dismount with PTO spinning, I was wincing, and reading with on eye covered. I was not looking forward to reading how it twisted his leg off at the hips ball joint with zero mercy, and greedily kept right on spinning, like nothing had happened, while your uncle lie in a bloody mess, shocked, and getting colder as he lost more blood. His boot making a dragging sound with every rotation of the PTO shaft, as it were Satan's very own metronome, until finally the old Massey,(or whatever) took her final sips of the remaining diesel in her tank, a few last chugs, followed by a loud unlady like belch. You uncle long since expired. I did not want to read anything like that, but I Couldn't look away. I'm so glad all he got was a new pair of overalls. If he is still alive, have a beer with that man, and let him know how much he means to you. I think he'd like that a lot. Even if that is not his "thing". Hope all is well.
Mine travels 14". Maybe another 2" with that attachment?? Wow! Great vid. Looks really safe too. I've been watching a lot of dangerous vids on these saws and all but gave mine away for $50. Glad I decided not to sell it now. Thank you for sharing!!!
I don't use that saw much considering I have a tablesaw and a nice dewalt compound slide power mitre saw, but I believe these radial saws do have some unique features that can still make them useful in the shop
In stead of moving the carriage back and forth so many times,would it be possible to lock the carriage in place and push the board thru like you do when ripping a piece of wood?After the first pass move the carriage out to the proper distance lock the carriage and push thru again. Repeat as needed. As I watched the vid it seem on that particular piece of wood it would have taken 2 pushes maybe 3 according to what I could guess the width of your planer.
I personally feel it's safer and better to go across the grain, especially since the piece of lumber I'm trying to flatten has a bit of a rock to it. So I fell more in control of the lumber by using pressure against the fence as added stablity
I found a mitre saw/dog hole bench on Pinterest. It could easily be modified to accommodate a RAS and secure any rough stock to be planed. I feel my pants getting tighter...
My planer belt just broke in the middle of a project, I have to order one, but I have a ras and one of those heads that I have never used, I think after watching this video I will give it a try.
The only thing I would suggest which I did not address in the video is to first start with a scrap piece and ensure that the cutter head is parallel with your table. If you see any grooves or low spots you will know to fine tune your RAS, it took me a couple times to get it exactly flat
I have a small collection of Dewalt radial arm saws cresting with an R2 which someday I'd like someone to explain to me what they were thinking about with that one? One thing I would Advocate when using a radial saw with the blade parallel to the table is to take a pair of 3 ft 2 by 6 and put them together in either a t or an L configuration so that if a carbide tooth snaps it will rather than dig a hole in your abdomen will bounce terrifyingly but harmless off of the L or t shaped guard between you and it. Slightly annoying that it's directly between you and the saw but better than asking neighbor to take you to the emergency room. Your hands would do well with having a protective glove in case the tooth is determined to get you somewhere. The world is out to get you it is not paranoia!
After working with an metal milling machine, I wonder how much your depth of cut is affected by the species of wood. In the case of metal, there are big differences to how much you want to load the machine and how quickly you want to spin the tool.
Same with wood but naturally you can take bigger cuts at a time with wood. Just like metal, take bigger cuts to get close to the size then a couple finishing cuts.
I just bought a used radial arm saw but I can't move the saw forward or backwards. I think the carriage screw spring is messed up. Can you recommend anything to try in case the carriage screw spring isn't the issue? Great video!
@@xxcodyxx1 thank you. The screw is loosen and the rollers aren't rusted but it seems to be jammed just behind the rollers. Is there a mechanism between the carriage and the column that would stop it from moving?
Hi Bernie I really liked your video. Thanks for making it, it was very entertaining and educational. I have a 12" Craftsman RAS and I have just gotten the planer head that you have there. I noticed after you planed one side you said that now you can take it over to the planer. Why cant you just turn it over and plane the other side the same way? I have a 6" Craftsman Jointer and 6" alien head planer. Should I get rid of these and just use the RAS to do all the planing? Im hoping to be able to do that as I dont have much room in my workshop. Thanks.
Certainly once the warp or twist is eliminated you could simply turn the board over and use the same method on the opposite side, but if you have a planer as I do, it would be faster and a more finished surface as all
I just happen to have one in my woodshop, probably sat there for years still in the package, so not sure where I got it, probably from my father or a friend. I have seen them on E-bay before though
This is an amazing video. I seen your post on Facebook, and came straight here to watch. Excellent demonstration. Thank for doing this. I'd also like your Facebook page if possible to send you a friend request, respectively.
not sure if you can help but I'm looking at picking one of these up for my Craftsman RAS 113.278540C. I notice there are two different models 29512 and 29513, are you able to offer any advice on the difference between the two, or how I would verify which one would work with my saw? I'm finding that they're vintage pieces with not too much info available. thanks, and great vid.
I just pulled the attachment off and found that I have a 5/8" shaft, that is threaded nearly all of the 1 1/2" length. The nut that was already on the saw mics at 1.065" or 1 1/16" and the planer attachment which accepts the nut mics at 1.1". I was thinking that it might accept a 1 1/8" nut, but it does not
great tool but there’s one thing that i really don’t like and that’s the stick isn’t secured. It’s milling with the hope that it doesn’t catch a knot or another part of the wood and sends it flying. no good in my book. but this can be easily fixed by having rails and clamps. the rails secured to the bench and the stock secured to the rails. if the rails are equipped with gears, that will make it easy to move in the Xand Y axis. one clamp should be used to secure it while being milled. I have a cousin with a radial arm saw and he tends to do unconventionally do things because he’s an engineer so he thinks he’s smarter than the machine but that’s a good way to get hurt. he knows who he is.
The planer head attachment actually has very little grabbiness compared to a standard circular saw operation on the RAS. As far as hitting a knot, just go easy on the depth and feed. Kickback can happen in any planning op, even on those little bench top model or big commercial ones as well. Both of them have a lot of potential for grab-n-go. The RAS, not so much in planer mode when proper caution and approach is used..
Great video! I love it! One question though, the board you showed in this video is taller than your fence so the cutter can go over it, how would you plane a board that's thinner than your fence, and not hit the fence with your cutter? It's probably something simple that I'm just not thinking of. Thanks!
'The man in the carbide van' would be a suggestion? Its just a joke name we use for your local tool maintenance and sharpening company, but those guys can either source or make any odd little carbide bit that you need. Our one sourced blades for our 70's West german planer like they were a common item..... its one of those items that ebay often returns 0 results for! They're aware that they need to go the extra mile to beat amazon or ebay, because of that customer service has got staggeringly good, they do the legwork tracking down bit for you nowadays instead of demanding code numbers
Yes I'm sure you could run the length of the board through as well, the attachment cuts well so there really isn't much resistance at all. I just felt more comfortable with one hand on the saw and one hand on the work piece, rather than the saw relying completely on the locking mechanisms since it is an older saw, and I haven't put the locks to the test
I just pulled the attachment off and found that I have a 5/8" shaft, that is threaded nearly all of the 1 1/2" length. The nut that was already on the saw mics at 1.065" or 1 1/16" and the planer attachment which accepts the nut mics at 1.1". I was thinking that it might accept a 1 1/8" nut, but it does not
I know this is an old video but if anyone is still watching this, PLEASE take note of the serious danger this gentleman is in with unbuttoned cuffs/loose shirt-sleeves as he reaches his arm past a powerful spinning blade to reset the board for each each pass, particularly as he nears the end and gets closer to the blade. This is exactly how serious shop accidents happen, not from sticking your hand into a tool, but by something you never thought of, like a loose sleeve. Rotary machines catch clothing every day in workshops, and it's not pretty. And it happens to experienced woodworkers just as it does to inexperienced ones.
I can appreciate what your saying in this particular situation Stumpy, shirt should have been removed indeed. But you, more than most should understand depth perception in videos is distorted
@@xxcodyxx1 A man such as yourself seems to know where he should be and should not be. You did just fine. Keep your concentration at the work piece and tool and don't mind these kinds of comments. You know what you're doing and what an acceptable distance is to be at around moving parts. Awesome video by the way. I love my old Craftsman radial arm saw. I use it just as much as the miter saw and table saw and wouldn't be without it. Take it easy.
You are running in a way that could pull the piece away from the fence. You are making adjustments to the wood with the tool, not in the stored and safe position. Starting on the right would pull the wood towards the fence and make it so you pull to cut and push the tool back to the safe position to adjust the wood. You are not being safe and waiting for an accident. Don't make videos unless you know what you are doing. At least put a disclaimer so you don't get sued when someone cuts off their arm..
If the planer is spinning CCW from above (which it apparently is), won't starting on the right do the opposite of what your post says? In any case, as he explains in the early part of the video the planer the setup he used pushes the work towards the fence.
A buddy found this attachment brand new and still in it's box at a flea market for $20 and got it for me since he doesn't have a radial arm saw, but knew about my old Craftsman. I said "thanks" since I didn't have a clue about it. Now I know I owe him a BIG thanks. Good job, Bernie.
I will say the trickiest part about using this attachment would be the initial set up, which involves making sure that the planer is parallel to your table, I had to adjust my "0" notch on my radial arm saw. You'll notice on my video at the 4:48 mark that the left side of the board shows a few marks where one side of the planer was cutting deeper than the other side, so I made the slight adjustment before proceeding. And thx for the compliment
We need more guys like this, No Nonsense explanations on how to do something. Well done!
I thank you Sir, I've seen a lot of unsafe videos using the radial arm saw and wanted to be sure I was comfortable with the attachment before sharing
I love seeing someone who is not afraid to understand and use a radial arm saw for more than just cutting to length. There is so much more versatility there, and they are getting cheaper. 👍 and subscribed!
Much appreciated Jim, thx
My old craftsman was grabbed from the scrap pile twenty years ago and fitted very quickly with an eight ft table and has been my “portable” lol for mainly siding in all forms and especially soffit and facia work in aluminum. It fits nicely in my suburban and once on a job site and set up it provides a nice work table for bending, will cut full width soffit in multiple layers. The length is easily marked on the cut side and support on the other. It also becomes your go to for ripping anything on the job site. It’s beat up and just barely maybe sorta square but it’s been used to cut thousands of feet of product.
This attachment is awesome! I have another saw that is in much better shape that would need to be set up properly for accurate safe work on heavier materials in the shop. Certainly an undervalued tool that with an unwarranted scary reputation. Man what a great attachment!
Omg this video was really fun to watch. Seeing that beautiful piece of wood restored so easily without a super expensive planar, was really amazing. Beautiful end result! I found this exact same model radial arm saw for $100, and I'm going to pick it up tomorrow. I wasn't sure if I should get it, because I recently had a severe kickback on a table saw with no riving knife, but my life dream has always been to have a nice old radial arm saw.
I just bought a 1959 Accu Arm to replace my RAS that was lost in a fire. It came with this attachment. I can’t wait to use it. This attachment is one of the reasons I purchased my current RAS over others. It also came with a kit that I haven’t had time to study. It’s currently in my storage unit, but looks like it’s for routing or dato cuts.
Very handy attachment. Even those of us that have both a jointer and a planer, our jointer typically has a narrower capacity than our planer.
Or in the case of reclaimed lumber, or random slab cut out of a log with a chainsaw, don't really want to run through delicate jointer or planer blades until it is cleaned up.
You can basically double the width of stock you can plane by securing it to a piece of MDF, planing half of it, then spin it around and plane the other.
Additional support and clamping may be required.
Even on pieces like you are working on, I'd probably secure it to a piece of MDF so it can't rock.
I agree sir, the safer the better.
I have a 1963 vintage DeWalt 1400, I use it for everything, got rid of my tablesaw years ago and found what Mr. Sawdust said to be true: in only 20% of the footprint that a tablesaw requires, it can do it all and more. I first surface planed a glued up end table top using the 3- winged shaper attachment, now that'l make a man outta ya! ☺
Thanks for making video. I always wondered how the planer attachment actually works,now I know, thanks again
need to get one of those attachments....thanks for showing.....Paul in Florida
Thanks for the post I just got the attachments they were from my grandfather didn't even know we had them and was asking for a planner, I excited to try this
Excellent buddy, with a little history behind the tool as well, sweet. Hope the video encourages you to use it, as well as helping you to be comfortable with the attachment as well
I’m interested in one of these. Seems like it work well as a thickness planer once you jointed a pice of wood that would lay flat against the table and fence
I just bought a rotary planer used from a guy on ebay. I'm going to get my ras table absolutely square this weekend then give her a try!
Wow, I would have thought you pushed it through like a rip. Nice vid. Thanks.
Much appreciated, thx Dale
I think I might have tried the same! Glad I found this video.
I love the "little apprehensive" comment. Universal carpenter term for "This thing scare the sh!t outta me" I know the feeling. Good video.
LOL Yes I was concerned the first time I spun this particular attachment, especially not knowing how old it was or if it had ever been abused and such
There were guards made for use with this cutter and the molding cutter, but they sold way more cutters than guards for them.
I built two houses and all the kitchen cabinets with a RAS. I also prefabed the roof trusses. I'm on my second set of motor bearings.
I love your sense of caution with this thing. It indeed looks scary as hell! I am looking for a cost effective way to plane without trying (surely unsuccessfully) to justify a planer to the wife.
Great video. Finally someone shows instead of tells the different uses of the radial arm saw, Bernie where can I get a planning attachment like that for my older Craftsman Radial Arm Saw that is similar to your? Thank you for a great video. Please show more attachments and their uses.
I still see them occasionally on E-bay
Bernie, that planner is for raise panel on kitchen doors..... try planning like ripping. ............ go with the grain not across, you get better finish. feed the wood into it like a planner. be safe
I just got a saw like that and he came with an attachment for planing great man I'm excited
Good deal sir, if we can inspire one another, there's nothing better
Thanks for posting this video a while ago i was searching on Ebay. For cwetain parts on a older Thickness planer i was going to buy and fix up for personal use in that search i kept seeing the Craftsman Radial Arm saw attachments that were reasonably priced and ive been wondering how they performed i figured their may be something on TH-cam and was quite impressed with your. Demonstation as it looks like i does better than What i expected it to do I wouldn’t want to do large quantities of lumber with it b it for. Doing one or two. Boards Here and there it looks fine i am a retired Woodworker who did 20 years of fast pace production work. And now I go at a much slower an enjoyable pace that as a general rule doesn’t have a strict deadline to meet so i beleive i may just pick one up and use it on a dedicated saw I my shop
Very glad to share what I found out about this attachment, enjoy the slower pace which you can set for yourself. I use my woodshop mainly in the winter months because we are out on our Goldwing motorcycle during the summer
Works just like a Wagner Safety Planer. Good job!
Glad I came across this video . Thank you
Very nice. I have the planer attachment for my 1971 DeWalt Power Shop. I set it up once and it scared the bejeezers out of me. Your video helped show me my errors. Mine has a guard and specific fence. Now I realize I need neither.
Yea Ron the first time I put this attachment on, it made me a bit nervous also. But I actually trued up a really warped oak dining room table top with it, by cutting the tabletop into 12" rips then using the radial arm saw with this attachment, followed by my planer. Then biscuit joined everything back together and I was able to save the table for a Christmas gift to my wifes daughter
Just don't over plane, only use half the planner blade or less per swipe
I agree with that whole heartedly, the cutting width of the entire attachment is 3 1/2" so my max pass would be only 1 1/2" so the cutting pressure is always directed towards the fence
That is a very useful tool, you could replace a 12" jointer. With the right table you could joint a 1x12x12. Way cool.
You could also just put something on top of your table, to raise the material high enough to clear you existing fence
@@xxcodyxx1 Or if you build a Mr. Sawdust style table, just move the fence back. ;)
@@markbeiser you can move the fence back on regular tops.
Thanks great vid, own a Craftsman RAS and have seen that attachment in the manual but could only imagine how it works in real life. Many of the tools of old had great engineering but you had to pay attention to what you are doing, something that today seems to be engineered out of tools. I also have a dewalt accessory guard for this option that goes around the sides of the cutter like a shield..
I have not ever seen an accessory guard, but since the carbide teeth don't extend outside the housing and there was only about 3/8" of the carbide teeth below the housing exposed (which is adjustable) I felt pretty comfortable with it. It was just that initial start up and then letting it get to full rpm's that made me a bit nervous since I didn't know how well balanced it was.
Excellent demo. Thank you
Whoa! Awesome stuff.
There is suppose to be a guard around that head. I've a DeWalt radial arm and it has the same attachment. Try to get yourself an attachment guard on ebay, it will make it a lot less scary to use.
Thank you for the great video.
you made an awesome demonstration of your RAS as a planer: I have been looking all over but I can find one even old old as it seems, nobody makes them anymore. I found a guy mention Gilmore Pattern Works in Tulsa, but then they no longer exist. I hope someone out there has he 32765 I am willing to buy it. Thanks
Are you looking for the saw or attachment?
@@Tomdic Thanks for this video: I got a RAS and the attachment now. Love it and thanks for the tips. You are awesome and kind to share your knowledge with us all.
that could be used with finished wood to make some really cool stuff you can step boards and things like that with different heights
Very good video, thanks for making it. I have on order a 29513 rotary planer (eBay $42 total) to use with my Rockwell (Delta) radial arm saw. I appreciate your measurement of the planer hex nut recess, my arbor nut is 1.0" wide so it will fit. I have a similar Craftsman rotary planer (9-2745) for my drill press , JT33 mount, but for several reasons it's not very useful nor safe to use, and this planer will replace it. And I do have a molding guard for my radial saw.
But, please please lose your long sleeves and wedding ring. I don't mind you not having a guard because if you contact the rotating planer body with your skin not much will happen, but it is so easy for fabric to get snagged by a rotary tool.
Years ago I had a farmer uncle and he was using his tractor with a towed implement driven by a rotating power takeoff shaft (PTO), with no guard, sin number 1. For some reason he stopped and dismounted his tractor while the PTO was still rotating at idle speed, sin number 2. Somehow the PTO snagged his pants leg. Fortunately he was able to quickly grab onto a tractor wheel and hang on for dear life while the PTO rapidly undressed him. He was wearing bib overalls, the loose fitting kind with shoulder straps, and the shoulder straps easily gave way. If he had been wearing pants with a belt or full body coveralls he would have been a goner. Just goes to show you.
Good God man. I did not expect your story to end this way. as soon as you mentioned him dismount with PTO spinning, I was wincing, and reading with on eye covered. I was not looking forward to reading how it twisted his leg off at the hips ball joint with zero mercy, and greedily kept right on spinning, like nothing had happened, while your uncle lie in a bloody mess, shocked, and getting colder as he lost more blood. His boot making a dragging sound with every rotation of the PTO shaft, as it were Satan's very own metronome, until finally the old Massey,(or whatever) took her final sips of the remaining diesel in her tank, a few last chugs, followed by a loud unlady like belch. You uncle long since expired.
I did not want to read anything like that, but I
Couldn't look away. I'm so glad all he got was a new pair of overalls. If he is still alive, have a beer with that man, and let him know how much he means to you. I think he'd like that a lot. Even if that is not his "thing".
Hope all is well.
thanx a lot for the information. I really appreciate it.
Absolutely Sir,
Thx for the comment
Mine travels 14". Maybe another 2" with that attachment?? Wow! Great vid. Looks really safe too. I've been watching a lot of dangerous vids on these saws and all but gave mine away for $50. Glad I decided not to sell it now. Thank you for sharing!!!
I don't use that saw much considering I have a tablesaw and a nice dewalt compound slide power mitre saw, but I believe these radial saws do have some unique features that can still make them useful in the shop
I work at a shop that has a huge one if I need to frame a wall I can can cut 20 2x4s in one pass
very nice, but could you please show us all the meconium you used to raise the table or the head.
There's a crank just below the table that with bevel gears turns a leadscrew that lifts the arm.
In stead of moving the carriage back and forth so many times,would it be possible to lock the carriage in place and push the board thru like you do when ripping a piece of wood?After the first pass move the carriage out to the proper distance lock the carriage and push thru again. Repeat as needed. As I watched the vid it seem on that particular piece of wood it would have taken 2 pushes maybe 3 according to what I could guess the width of your planer.
I personally feel it's safer and better to go across the grain, especially since the piece of lumber I'm trying to flatten has a bit of a rock to it. So I fell more in control of the lumber by using pressure against the fence as added stablity
I have always pushed my wood into the planer, I might have to try this way
I found a mitre saw/dog hole bench on Pinterest. It could easily be modified to accommodate a RAS and secure any rough stock to be planed. I feel my pants getting tighter...
My planer belt just broke in the middle of a project, I have to order one, but I have a ras and one of those heads that I have never used, I think after watching this video I will give it a try.
The only thing I would suggest which I did not address in the video is to first start with a scrap piece and ensure that the cutter head is parallel with your table. If you see any grooves or low spots you will know to fine tune your RAS, it took me a couple times to get it exactly flat
You can make beveled panels for doors with this tool. You really should use a guard for this attachment. It is the same guard for moulding heads.
Just keep your fingers away and you don't need a guard.
Since this vid has been around for a while, Have you had to replace the carbide and if so where did you find them?
You got a new subscriber
I have a small collection of Dewalt radial arm saws cresting with an R2 which someday I'd like someone to explain to me what they were thinking about with that one? One thing I would Advocate when using a radial saw with the blade parallel to the table is to take a pair of 3 ft 2 by 6 and put them together in either a t or an L configuration so that if a carbide tooth snaps it will rather than dig a hole in your abdomen will bounce terrifyingly but harmless off of the L or t shaped guard between you and it. Slightly annoying that it's directly between you and the saw but better than asking neighbor to take you to the emergency room. Your hands would do well with having a protective glove in case the tooth is determined to get you somewhere. The world is out to get you it is not paranoia!
After working with an metal milling machine, I wonder how much your depth of cut is affected by the species of wood. In the case of metal, there are big differences to how much you want to load the machine and how quickly you want to spin the tool.
Same with wood but naturally you can take bigger cuts at a time with wood. Just like metal, take bigger cuts to get close to the size then a couple finishing cuts.
I just bought a used radial arm saw but I can't move the saw forward or backwards. I think the carriage screw spring is messed up. Can you recommend anything to try in case the carriage screw spring isn't the issue?
Great video!
I mean there is a screw to lock the arm from moving, so make sure that is loose first. Then look at the rollers and make sure they aren't rusted
@@xxcodyxx1 thank you. The screw is loosen and the rollers aren't rusted but it seems to be jammed just behind the rollers. Is there a mechanism between the carriage and the column that would stop it from moving?
Are these attachments still available for the craftsman radial arm saw?
Hi Bernie I really liked your video. Thanks for making it, it was very entertaining and educational. I have a 12" Craftsman RAS and I have just gotten the planer head that you have there. I noticed after you planed one side you said that now you can take it over to the planer. Why cant you just turn it over and plane the other side the same way? I have a 6" Craftsman Jointer and 6" alien head planer. Should I get rid of these and just use the RAS to do all the planing? Im hoping to be able to do that as I dont have much room in my workshop. Thanks.
Certainly once the warp or twist is eliminated you could simply turn the board over and use the same method on the opposite side, but if you have a planer as I do, it would be faster and a more finished surface as all
In theory this would also make the board parallel so you can joint and thickness plane with one attachment.
That did a good job
Hi.
Please where could i find online this kind of attachment?
I looked for It everywhere without successo...
ebay ebay ebay
Thanks for the video!
The unit becomes a wood milling machine. An automatic feeder like on a knee mill would help.
great video where did you get the planing attachment thanks for sharing
I just happen to have one in my woodshop, probably sat there for years still in the package, so not sure where I got it, probably from my father or a friend. I have seen them on E-bay before though
Pretty hard to find them. I saw one on Ebay but that's about it
Any luck finding these attachments anymore?
This is an amazing video. I seen your post on Facebook, and came straight here to watch. Excellent demonstration. Thank for doing this. I'd also like your Facebook page if possible to send you a friend request, respectively.
not sure if you can help but I'm looking at picking one of these up for my Craftsman RAS 113.278540C. I notice there are two different models 29512 and 29513, are you able to offer any advice on the difference between the two, or how I would verify which one would work with my saw?
I'm finding that they're vintage pieces with not too much info available.
thanks, and great vid.
Mine is the 29513, If you'd like I can check my output shaft diameter, length, and the size of the nut which holds onto my blades
I just pulled the attachment off and found that I have a 5/8" shaft, that is threaded nearly all of the 1 1/2" length. The nut that was already on the saw mics at 1.065" or 1 1/16" and the planer attachment which accepts the nut mics at 1.1". I was thinking that it might accept a 1 1/8" nut, but it does not
thanks a bunch! looking forward to more vids!
Glad to help sir
great tool but there’s one thing that i really don’t like and that’s the stick isn’t secured. It’s milling with the hope that it doesn’t catch a knot or another part of the wood and sends it flying.
no good in my book.
but this can be easily fixed by having rails and clamps.
the rails secured to the bench and the stock secured to the rails.
if the rails are equipped with gears, that will make it easy to move in the Xand Y axis.
one clamp should be used to secure it while being milled. I have a cousin with a radial arm saw and he tends to do unconventionally do things because he’s an engineer so he thinks he’s smarter than the machine but that’s a good way to get hurt.
he knows who he is.
The planer head attachment actually has very little grabbiness compared to a standard circular saw operation on the RAS. As far as hitting a knot, just go easy on the depth and feed. Kickback can happen in any planning op, even on those little bench top model or big commercial ones as well. Both of them have a lot of potential for grab-n-go. The RAS, not so much in planer mode when proper caution and approach is used..
Great video! I love it! One question though, the board you showed in this video is taller than your fence so the cutter can go over it, how would you plane a board that's thinner than your fence, and not hit the fence with your cutter? It's probably something simple that I'm just not thinking of. Thanks!
I would simply put a piece of plywood or random stock under the piece your working with, as long as it still is against your fence
Lower the fence
Thanks, I thought of that but didn't know if it would be sturdy the enough.
And I didn't know that you could lower the fence.
You lower the fence by cutting a strip off the exisnting fence or make a new fence that is narrower then the current one.
Have you been able to find replacement carbide bits for that?
I have never looked for them sir
Do they still sell those attachments?
That's awsome!!!
I am trying to find replacement blades for my Craftsman 29513 rotary planer. Any ideas?
No sir I have never looked for any replacement blades, did you have any luck finding them?
'The man in the carbide van' would be a suggestion? Its just a joke name we use for your local tool maintenance and sharpening company, but those guys can either source or make any odd little carbide bit that you need. Our one sourced blades for our 70's West german planer like they were a common item..... its one of those items that ebay often returns 0 results for!
They're aware that they need to go the extra mile to beat amazon or ebay, because of that customer service has got staggeringly good, they do the legwork tracking down bit for you nowadays instead of demanding code numbers
nicely done
Mr. Cody do you have any other attachments for the RAS that you use?
No sir, just my dado blades
Can you plane the board length wise?
If you lock the saw head in place you might be able to feed the wood through. Just like you would do a rip cut with a radial arm saw.
Yes I'm sure you could run the length of the board through as well, the attachment cuts well so there really isn't much resistance at all. I just felt more comfortable with one hand on the saw and one hand on the work piece, rather than the saw relying completely on the locking mechanisms since it is an older saw, and I haven't put the locks to the test
Would this bit fit the 113 models?
I just pulled the attachment off and found that I have a 5/8" shaft, that is threaded nearly all of the 1 1/2" length. The nut that was already on the saw mics at 1.065" or 1 1/16" and the planer attachment which accepts the nut mics at 1.1". I was thinking that it might accept a 1 1/8" nut, but it does not
I know this is an old video but if anyone is still watching this, PLEASE take note of the serious danger this gentleman is in with unbuttoned cuffs/loose shirt-sleeves as he reaches his arm past a powerful spinning blade to reset the board for each each pass, particularly as he nears the end and gets closer to the blade. This is exactly how serious shop accidents happen, not from sticking your hand into a tool, but by something you never thought of, like a loose sleeve. Rotary machines catch clothing every day in workshops, and it's not pretty. And it happens to experienced woodworkers just as it does to inexperienced ones.
I can appreciate what your saying in this particular situation Stumpy, shirt should have been removed indeed. But you, more than most should understand depth perception in videos is distorted
It’s looking pretty scary at 5:19
@@xxcodyxx1 A man such as yourself seems to know where he should be and should not be. You did just fine. Keep your concentration at the work piece and tool and don't mind these kinds of comments. You know what you're doing and what an acceptable distance is to be at around moving parts. Awesome video by the way. I love my old Craftsman radial arm saw. I use it just as much as the miter saw and table saw and wouldn't be without it. Take it easy.
Much appreciated Mike
I got one from eBay at $98 thanks.
Can’t find one ole boy🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️ I think I need a DeLorean to go find one unless you can help me
Great video. Lets see you RAS haters do that with your table saws.
Seriously? They make a guard that fits over that cutter head. Loose sleeves around unguarded, rotating machinery? Dude, you're gonna be a statistic.
perfeito
👍😉
You are running in a way that could pull the piece away from the fence. You are making adjustments to the wood with the tool, not in the stored and safe position. Starting on the right would pull the wood towards the fence and make it so you pull to cut and push the tool back to the safe position to adjust the wood. You are not being safe and waiting for an accident. Don't make videos unless you know what you are doing. At least put a disclaimer so you don't get sued when someone cuts off their arm..
If the planer is spinning CCW from above (which it apparently is), won't starting on the right do the opposite of what your post says? In any case, as he explains in the early part of the video the planer the setup he used pushes the work towards the fence.
can you still find this attahment. Anyone got any info on it?
I've seen them on Ebay occasionally, may have to check for it a couple times, but they do show up