On the next model, with the body change, you have to take all that cowling off because there's 1/3 the room that you show there. The metal one is bolted in and its surprising how much room it makes. Just did this yesterday.
I just finished strut replacement on my Yaris thanks to this video. I used the same Pittsburgh pass through socket set with allen key and it worked like a charm on the top strut nuts! The direction of the 2 strut bolts and nuts that attach to the knuckle in your shots was the same as mine. However, I noticed on other videos, it was different for the drivers side, where the bolts are facing toward the front, and nuts toward the back. From what I researched, I don't think it really matters what direction they face. What is your opinion?
@@jollytime0811 it makes absolutely no difference as to the function of the strut on the car. The only difference I could see it making is maybe it's easier to get the bolts in or out when they face One direction versus the other, but that's all. Thanks for watching and commenting and congrats on your fix
There will be a 1/2 gap between the top of the strut and the car when the wheels are on the ground. That is the way they designed it, although I wasn't sure when I made this video.
I thought I was crazy, my Yaris has front shocks with no retention studs, just the center stud. I was hesitant to remove it because I figured that was the capture nut for the entire spring
If you apply that AT205 reseal, make sure next time when you see a wet strut, may be is not because is leaking but just the preserver...so, the "bouncing and driving test" may be required to find out if a new strut is need.
I don't use the AT205 anymore. I finished that bottle and have kind of chalked it up as snake oil. If the rubber is deteriorating, you might as well just call it and replace it.
My 2008 yaris makes a popping sound when going over small bumps on the drivers side right in the corner of the dash. I will see the mechanic next week to replace my coil springs and strut mounting bearings. Do I need to have the mount itself replaced or just the bearings ?
Well the mount and bearing is all the same piece on this style strut. So I would get a whole new assembly and start fresh. But if you hear clunking, it's probably control arm bushings in the lower control arm. I have some videos up on how to replace those also.
Hi. I was wondering if you can help me. Im trying to change coil spring on a Toyota Yaris 2009 and the top strut nut is really tight like super tight. I was using a normal spanner but will a Offset deep ring spanner work? Also the sway bar nut is rusted in and keeps turning round even after putting the alan key in to hold in place. Iv tried the visegrip method from behind now the rubber boots ripped but still wont come loose or come out. If you have any tips please will you let me know. Thanks.
Hey man i found this and i want to say thanks. But the cover on top of the strut is very hard plastic. I have tried everything i know of to remove it. It will not budge. Is there a trick to remove that black cap on top of the strut?
I know I’m late, but in case others see this in the future: don’t try to take the entire black cap off. There is a thin rubber dust cover on top of that cap that you can very easily take off with a slotted screwdriver to access the nut, which is holding the black cap down. (The “black cap” is actually a washer between the nut and the car body.)
Hi, thanks for video. Is it possible to use normal tools , not use the shock key? Furthenmore , did you have replaced the part under the cup, in the shock absorder?
The only way I know to do this is the way I show here. Those pass through sockets are pretty cheap at harbor freight...it's worth getting a set. What part under the cup are you referencing?
Very useful video. Thank you for sharing. How are they going after several years? Do you recommend these struts to buy or something else? Thanks a bunch.
This was my son's car and he sold the car about 2 years ago. They were great the whole time we had the car and I assume they are still ok now. The Yaris is light so they don't get too abused from normal driving. Yes id recommend them. Thanks for watching
Does your new one still good? My old one went until 260K replaced. Went to junk yard had 120K , want to use that, Will easy pass 200K. The aftermarket is not good choice, just feel
I personally think the FCS parts are ok for stock replacement. The struts in this video have about 20K miles on them now and they are fine. Probably not Toyota quality, but still good enough.
Yeah but that Yaris needs little else, as long as you're changing the oil every 5k miles. These things will last a very long time with minimal maintenance and expense
@@jcx2bby when I turn right the wheel between the top rubber and chasis is a little gap under the circle rubber. Is that normal ? I can send you a picture on e-mail.
@@joesaric1 Many other components to consider as well. Are the CV axle shafts and joints in good shape? Loose sway bar end links? Lower control arm ball joints and bushings ok? Impossible to know until you remove the tire and have a look and shake things around.
It's possible the bearing at the top of the assembly is worn out and loose causing a clunk. But I think it may be more likely that you have a worn out CV shaft. They clunk when they go bad as well and go bad more often. Not sure of the torque specs, usually too nuts on strut assemblies are 50 to 70 ft lbs.
No. As long as you don't unbolt the lower control arm. Camber is set by bolts on that arm. Toe is set by the tie rod ends so if just replacing the strut, alignment is maintained.
This is the short way if you have the right tool. But the Iron part under the plastic part can be remove its just about six to eight 10mm bolts to be removed
@@janvalle8998 the wiper assembly ain't terrible. Removing the wiper arms can certainly be a workout but the motor for it is just slid into a weld channel and held in place with a few of the 10mm. nothing crazy.
We’re I can get that wrench. Is very difficult to find it. I have to ask a friend for a set that is to high and hit the top metal. For this, I have to disassemble the wipers. Maybe some one hasta internet company to get it? Thanks to everyone. I do My own cars, not to make money. Thanks ones again.
All, the gap between the strut tower and retaining bolt and top cap is intentional. When the vehicle is on the ground you will have an approximate 1/2" gap. This is not a sign of a worn part. There is nothing wrong. Otherwise, good video. Thank you.
@@jcx2bby My Scion XD which same strut as Yaris, go until 270K replaced. OE parts are much better than KYB one. So I went to junk yard removed one have 110K mile. I think it will give me another 10 years. Feel after market strut ,even KYB is not equal the OE.
Great video, used it to change mine out. I have a question, I did the same exact thing you did but for some reason when lowered the car, they pushed up and theres a gap under the top nuts on both sides that hold the shocks on top. It scares me, because I changed my shock absorbers why they made Tap Tap noise and was more up from one side than on the other, now they are not so up but I still see a little space.
@@josedanielpg2329 Jose, the small gap is completely normal. The Yaris has a floating front suspension. I would recommend put everything back together and give it a test drive. If it drives fine, don't worry about it.
2006 to 2013 were pretty much all the same suspension, including the hatchbacks and sedans. I think later years and series they had a sporty option that had upgraded suspension but this series didn't offer that as far as I know.
Sadly, that is the case with all newer cars. Especially with regards to engine work; every single manufacturer has some overpriced specialty tool they have created for anything involving cylinder head/timing work. Frustrating.
You are the man! Helped me a lot and now I finally have a set of open wrench. Thanks!
Awesome man, thanks for commenting
Great job! Looking forward to installing my struts on my car. Thanks, great video 👍
Thank you and good luck
On the next model, with the body change, you have to take all that cowling off because there's 1/3 the room that you show there. The metal one is bolted in and its surprising how much room it makes. Just did this yesterday.
Se puede hacer en todos los modelos ata el Yaris 2012 el 4 puertas
I just finished strut replacement on my Yaris thanks to this video. I used the same Pittsburgh pass through socket set with allen key and it worked like a charm on the top strut nuts!
The direction of the 2 strut bolts and nuts that attach to the knuckle in your shots was the same as mine. However, I noticed on other videos, it was different for the drivers side, where the bolts are facing toward the front, and nuts toward the back. From what I researched, I don't think it really matters what direction they face. What is your opinion?
@@jollytime0811 it makes absolutely no difference as to the function of the strut on the car. The only difference I could see it making is maybe it's easier to get the bolts in or out when they face One direction versus the other, but that's all. Thanks for watching and commenting and congrats on your fix
@@jcx2bby Thanks for your input!
Hi my schocks absorber are changed. Thanks for your help and video. Can you tell, if the cup at the top are touching the car or space? Thanks
There will be a 1/2 gap between the top of the strut and the car when the wheels are on the ground. That is the way they designed it, although I wasn't sure when I made this video.
I thought I was crazy, my Yaris has front shocks with no retention studs, just the center stud. I was hesitant to remove it because I figured that was the capture nut for the entire spring
You mean at the top of the strut assembly?
@@jcx2bby yeah man, you know on other vehicles I've swapped them out, they have 3 retention nuts and thats what you remove on the top to get it off
could u please tel me tools u used to replace the struts ?
@@naveenxavier6645 are you talking about the pass through sockets?
www.harborfreight.com/sae-and-metric-go-thru-socket-set-21-piece-62305.html
If you apply that AT205 reseal, make sure next time when you see a wet strut, may be is not because is leaking but just the preserver...so, the "bouncing and driving test" may be required to find out if a new strut is need.
I don't use the AT205 anymore. I finished that bottle and have kind of chalked it up as snake oil. If the rubber is deteriorating, you might as well just call it and replace it.
My 2008 yaris makes a popping sound when going over small bumps on the drivers side right in the corner of the dash. I will see the mechanic next week to replace my coil springs and strut mounting bearings. Do I need to have the mount itself replaced or just the bearings ?
Well the mount and bearing is all the same piece on this style strut. So I would get a whole new assembly and start fresh. But if you hear clunking, it's probably control arm bushings in the lower control arm. I have some videos up on how to replace those also.
Hi. I was wondering if you can help me. Im trying to change coil spring on a Toyota Yaris 2009 and the top strut nut is really tight like super tight. I was using a normal spanner but will a Offset deep ring spanner work? Also the sway bar nut is rusted in and keeps turning round even after putting the alan key in to hold in place. Iv tried the visegrip method from behind now the rubber boots ripped but still wont come loose or come out. If you have any tips please will you let me know. Thanks.
Thank you, good dem
Hey man i found this and i want to say thanks. But the cover on top of the strut is very hard plastic. I have tried everything i know of to remove it. It will not budge. Is there a trick to remove that black cap on top of the strut?
I know I’m late, but in case others see this in the future: don’t try to take the entire black cap off. There is a thin rubber dust cover on top of that cap that you can very easily take off with a slotted screwdriver to access the nut, which is holding the black cap down. (The “black cap” is actually a washer between the nut and the car body.)
Hi, thanks for video. Is it possible to use normal tools , not use the shock key? Furthenmore , did you have replaced the part under the cup, in the shock absorder?
The only way I know to do this is the way I show here. Those pass through sockets are pretty cheap at harbor freight...it's worth getting a set.
What part under the cup are you referencing?
@@jcx2bby Thanks nad sorry for my bad english. For exemple : Mapco 34586
@@krisursule6230 oh I see. Yes those parts were also replaced because I replaced the entire strut assembly. It came preassembled from RockAuto.
@@jcx2bby ok thanks.
@@krisursule6230 he rplaced the strut shock absorber + spring because he beought 'quick struts' - that are already assembled with a new spring.
Very useful video. Thank you for sharing. How are they going after several years? Do you recommend these struts to buy or something else? Thanks a bunch.
This was my son's car and he sold the car about 2 years ago. They were great the whole time we had the car and I assume they are still ok now. The Yaris is light so they don't get too abused from normal driving. Yes id recommend them. Thanks for watching
Does your new one still good? My old one went until 260K replaced. Went to junk yard had 120K , want to use that, Will easy pass 200K. The aftermarket is not good choice, just feel
I personally think the FCS parts are ok for stock replacement. The struts in this video have about 20K miles on them now and they are fine. Probably not Toyota quality, but still good enough.
5:31 Hi, is it possible to know the reference of this tool, please? and the size?
Ho sorry , you tell in the video...
www.harborfreight.com/sae-metric-go-thru-socket-set-21-pc-62305.html
@@jcx2bby Hi, is it possible to give me the tall of the 17cm soocket please? I can't buy the Pittsburg beacause , i am a european.
What is the name of this ratchet? Allow a link to purchase thanks
Link is on the description
www.harborfreight.com/sae-metric-go-thru-socket-set-21-piece-62305.html
Can you please give me the web site and tool description where you got the Pittburgh pass thru socket set?
Here you go Ruben. Harbor freight to the rescue!
www.harborfreight.com/sae-metric-go-thru-socket-set-21-pc-62305.html
I have Yaris 2010 sedan. Always struts making trouble every 3 years need to replace because of Front wheel drive
Yeah but that Yaris needs little else, as long as you're changing the oil every 5k miles. These things will last a very long time with minimal maintenance and expense
Sth is hitting when drive on bad roads in the top left strut mount. What could be ?
Do a visual inspection, see what things look like. The top bearing could be fried, or the strut itself might have leaked all the fluid out.
@@jcx2bby when I turn right the wheel between the top rubber and chasis is a little gap under the circle rubber. Is that normal ? I can send you a picture on e-mail.
@@joesaric1 yes, normal. Doesn't look normal but it is.
@@jcx2bby what is clunking than ? Maybe is loosen between the top and the mount rubber
@@joesaric1 Many other components to consider as well. Are the CV axle shafts and joints in good shape? Loose sway bar end links? Lower control arm ball joints and bushings ok? Impossible to know until you remove the tire and have a look and shake things around.
You are good...i mean GOOD. Thanx
Thank you
What is thhe name that you spray in rubber boots ...pls..
AT205 Reseal.
@@jcx2bby thank you sir.
I have a clunking sound coming from the front end of mine do you think it’s just a loose strut? What’s the torque specs? Thanks man great vid!
It's possible the bearing at the top of the assembly is worn out and loose causing a clunk. But I think it may be more likely that you have a worn out CV shaft. They clunk when they go bad as well and go bad more often.
Not sure of the torque specs, usually too nuts on strut assemblies are 50 to 70 ft lbs.
No spring compressor?
Not if you replace the entire assembly
This black cap is kicking my butt!
Get the pass through sockets and save your sanity
Does strut replacement effect the alignment?
No. As long as you don't unbolt the lower control arm. Camber is set by bolts on that arm. Toe is set by the tie rod ends so if just replacing the strut, alignment is maintained.
was your car ride higher after the install ??
No, this will not affect ride height
This is the short way if you have the right tool. But the Iron part under the plastic part can be remove its just about six to eight 10mm bolts to be removed
Did not know that when I did this job, obviously. Lol. Thanks for the comment
Yeah but it’s got the wiper assembly
@@janvalle8998 the wiper assembly ain't terrible. Removing the wiper arms can certainly be a workout but the motor for it is just slid into a weld channel and held in place with a few of the 10mm. nothing crazy.
Thanks you noble man
You're welcome fellow noble sir
We’re I can get that wrench. Is very difficult to find it. I have to ask a friend for a set that is to high and hit the top metal. For this, I have to disassemble the wipers.
Maybe some one hasta internet company to get it? Thanks to everyone. I do My own cars, not to make money. Thanks ones again.
Any one know how to get this wrench? Thanks
It's a Harbor Freight set. www.harborfreight.com/sae-metric-go-thru-socket-set-21-pc-62305.html
All, the gap between the strut tower and retaining bolt and top cap is intentional. When the vehicle is on the ground you will have an approximate 1/2" gap. This is not a sign of a worn part. There is nothing wrong. Otherwise, good video. Thank you.
100pct correct, and I clearly did not know this at the time. Thank you for the information and comment
@@jcx2bby My Scion XD which same strut as Yaris, go until 270K replaced. OE parts are much better than KYB one. So I went to junk yard removed one have 110K mile. I think it will give me another 10 years. Feel after market strut ,even KYB is not equal the OE.
@@yanrobert5968 I don't disagree with this. Good points.
Great video, used it to change mine out. I have a question, I did the same exact thing you did but for some reason when lowered the car, they pushed up and theres a gap under the top nuts on both sides that hold the shocks on top.
It scares me, because I changed my shock absorbers why they made Tap Tap noise and was more up from one side than on the other, now they are not so up but I still see a little space.
@@josedanielpg2329 Jose, the small gap is completely normal. The Yaris has a floating front suspension. I would recommend put everything back together and give it a test drive. If it drives fine, don't worry about it.
Man i bent the Allen wrench
On the top of the strut? You aren't turning the Allen wrench really, just using it to hold the thing in position while you loosen the nut.
No matter what you drive, service is unpleasant, I guess pick your poison 🤷.
Which years are compatible w 2011 struts
& does it matter if it’s a hatchback
2006 to 2013 were pretty much all the same suspension, including the hatchbacks and sedans. I think later years and series they had a sporty option that had upgraded suspension but this series didn't offer that as far as I know.
@@yaboislemten7106 all yaris are hatchback (I believe). if you go to a website they'll give you options that fit your car. i use ebay.
Rev up your Engine
Thanks for teaching and stupid Toyota company, it's too hard and takes long time to loose the bolts on top. But Echo it's easy to do that
Yes, total pain to get those bolts out!
Frustrating as hell that everything you do on this car requires buying some new freaking tool. I want my '50s era Buick back right now...
Sadly, that is the case with all newer cars. Especially with regards to engine work; every single manufacturer has some overpriced specialty tool they have created for anything involving cylinder head/timing work. Frustrating.