The Ignitech MISFIRE Mystery...!? Can I Solve it?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ก.ย. 2024
- After a persistent misfire I decided to look at a way of fixing it.
I forgot to put it in the video but a massive thanks to Liam Venter at FastBikeGear: www.fastbikege...
his Ignitech guide was really helpful in understanding the basics of the system and he took the time to speak to me about how to get the Ignitech up and running well. thank you Liam ☺️
ASoftaaja also looks at a Ignitech system here: • 20 hevosvoiman mopo os...
I forgot to put it in the video but a massive thanks to Liam Venter at FastBikeGear: www.fastbikegear.co.nz/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=6233
His Ignitech guide was really helpful in understanding the basics of the system and he took the time to speak to me about how to get the Ignitech up and running well. Thank you Liam ☺️
What was the difference in the dyno power curve from the stock vs lighter aftermarket flywheel? Thanks @AutoBeta2T
@@PRacing-lc8ty hi, peak power was the same just a bit better lower down as it wasn't missing all of the time. I'm wondering if it was a voltage thing (to low) and the Ignitech wasn't getting 11.8 volts until the engine was spinning a bit faster and the coil was outputting a higher voltage? Something I need to test at somepoint.
@Britishpersun yes, probably but I have the fully programmable CDI from Ignitech. Still, I would like to be able to run without it being a total loss system.
2:15 Dave, when you tap the pickup with your finger I think you are referring to the little 'pip' of metal on the outer edge of the unit, the actual 'pip' is at the other end of the unit, it runs very close to the central boss of the flywheel (like 0.5mm away from it). Now you can't see what on earth would act as the trigger on the central boss of the flywheel so I'll tell you what acts as the trigger! The central boss is magnetized due to the four magnets, it has two pole change over points 180 degrees apart, in other words where the central boss goes from north to south and visa versa, it is these switch over points that induce a current in the pickup coil that then triggers the CDI unit, hence the spare spark. It's a crude system in my opinion, there must be a fairly 'fuzzy' area where the pickup coil triggers the CDI, it not like a lump of metal flying past a coil which would give a much more defined and consistent signal.
Very nice!
See this is the reason my AR had awsome clutch slip and probally never got above 70 mph :D
I really have my fingers crossed for you with this one and I'm loving the videos :D
Thank you Trevor 😀
Hopefully at some point I'll have a 100 mph AR 😉
Thanks for your reply chaps. I was thinking of pre CDI.
Nice job Dave, looking forward to a power graph
Cheers - hopefully a little more power with the new pipe... No more power with misfiring (I thought there would be) but the only misfire was when coming onto pipe.
If finding absolute TDC is important to someone, the piston stop method (store bought or fashioned from an old spark plug) and a ubiquitous 6" (minimum) plastic or metal degree wheel is hard to beat. (gentle rock cw/ccw /2). This eliminates the TDC indicator +/- x* rock-over uncertainty and guesstimating. The official TDC can then be permanently and cleanly etched onto the flywheel and a boss or other permanent solid feature on the case.
I like your methodology, and the equipment you have surrounded yourself with. Subscribed.
I too am a fan of Jan Thiel and his pre-retirement work with the extraordinary Frits Overmars on the development of the all conquering RSA at Aprilia.
Cheers buddy. Thanks, and I hope you enjoy future episodes 😊
I think the problem with the misfiring is possibility chips of magnets throwing the timing off. Will you please clean it up and give it a shot again with the original one just to check?
Possibly - but I will retest the standard ignition again to get to the cause of the misfire. I'll inspect the rotor for debris. Cheers.
7:52 I like the fact that the weight was 70 grams and not 69 because of course you needed to drill an tap an m6 hole in the rotor, this would have lost the 1 gram over weight that you had! 🙂 (The hole would have been filled with the bolt but at the moment you have the bolt and no hole).
Exactly... As I had planned 🤯
Good job!
I got ignitech myself on two machines, and one of them is misfiring a bit(twin piaggio zip 200cc, look in my channel)
I already got about the same setup with the trigger on both, but i´ll fix it =)
The Piaggio is Swedens fastest so far even thou it misfires slightly.
The other bike is a tzr 250, this one works properly with ignitech, but as we speak i´m converting it to fuel inejction =)
Hi Patrick - thanks. I need to check your channel out! I imagine it will be even faster minus the misfire!
Thats good. I gave up on Ignitech because I had so many problems with it. Maybe I should revisit.
Hi Mark, it does seem okay now but total loss is a pain. What ignition are you using now?
@@AutoBeta2T I went back to PVL. Wob says im giving up power but the PVL always works. It is hard to set records when the bike is dropping cylinders. haha
@SpeedofCheeseRacing PVL are good. We ran them on our 50cc race bikes. Simple and work well.
Cheers Mark.
@@AutoBeta2T Cheers Dave!
Cool work
Thanks.
Innerr pickup fires twice. Ypu can change tge possition of the inner pickup so the pickup signal and the msincoil signal dont fall close together when reving. These to move when the revs fo op an get too ckose oe meet with echother and disrupt one another. Can be seen when using a osciloscope
Thanks, it sounds like that was happening in mine then. Cheers for the info.
great job lad keep it going
Thank you Mark - we are getting there 🙂
Good ideas
Cheers 😁
Hello Dave and thank's for your video.One thing that struck me was the diameter of the ignition coil windings They appear to be on the large size, could that be the lighting coil? Just asking.
PS. Alex has just posted a video. You and Alex the dream team!
From memory the CDI that is being used is powered by the battery, not by a coil. The thick coil that you can see may well be for charging the battery or powering the lights (or both).
Hi Malc, kinda as Pete said. The battery is supplying the power to the CDI and I converted the standard gene to charge the battery from the 6v charging loop plus the 6v for the headlight.
I'm interested to watch this one! (as I am with all your vids!)
Watch out for a shout-out to you to say thanks
@@AutoBeta2T LOL 3:25 I'm famous! I'm so pleased that my suggestion of losing the 'spare spark' has worked, of course induction from one wire to another is never very good but neither is effectively running CDI at twice the engine speed! It may well have been that the cap' in the CDI was not getting charged high enough or quick enough to produce HT in the coil. With your programable ignition system you should be able to run a decent retard curve and run some advance at low rpm which will 'beef' up the mid range. I know you need top end but it is still better to have a power curve that is nice and fat rather than like a church steeple . Keep the vids coming!
@@sidecarbod1441 yep, that email you sent me many moons ago really helped to make me think about ignition. I think ultimately I'll end up with a "blob" on the spare AR rotor. But that's a job for a few videos.
The pipe test vid should be out by Sunday 😊
@@AutoBeta2T No problem! The setup in the vid looks pretty good but it would be easy enough to 'blob up' a standard flywheel!
EDIT... Oh I guess the setup in the vid isn't charging the battery. 😞
@@sidecarbod1441 my ultimate goal is to have the battery charging and powering the Ignitech so I don't haft to worry about total loss. There seems to be interference that is causing issues... Hopefully I'll get time to install a "blob" and check it out. It seems to be the easiest and most practical solution ☺️
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