Good day Nick, hope you can help me with a 4r100 in a 2003 7.3l e350. Great videos on TH-cam by the way. So I guess I’ll start by telling you what I’m doing…all bearings all thrust washers transmission had 94,000 miles when it blew the lip on the forward piston, everything inside was super clean. so I decided tp beef it up a bit. Changed the aluminum for steel six pinion planets in the rear. All new steels, Raybestos GPZ frictions. All new sprags, including the heavy duty one, milled Center support with snap ring, tig welded coast clutch, new center support sonnax bearing, new solenoid pack, sonnax oil pump reg size. The question to you is I have a box truck that weighs 10,000 pounds daily and was wondering if I should use the sonnax HD or the transgo tugger kits. What would you suggest? Should I mill the oil pump stator and body? Should I add another friction and steel to forward and machine the upper plate? I’m also using a billet torque converter from Goerend Torque Converter ( 4FBD ).
Hi Manny, thank you for the views and kind words. Looks like your build is off to a solid start; you're doing a lot of the same things I and many other builders do to these transmissions. I typically install both the Transgo Tugger kit and a few select parts from the Sonnax Zip kit such as the PR valve, Boost valve and line pressure modulator valve. Most of the pumps have enough wear that requires some resurfacing so I always have the pump body milled out to install the Sonnax oversize gears. Adding another friction and steel to the forward drum is up to you but usually not necessary given that clutch is always applied in any forward range position on the shifter. I would replace the belleville style return plate with a new one, install a Sonnax one-piece rear case bushing along with new bushings everywhere else in the unit and overdrive piston return spring spiral-loc snap ring.
Thanks again for your insight, I would suggest that a possible video for the future would be a pump resurface… if you don’t have one already…thank you again for your quick and timely response… stay blessed.
Hey Nikk, once again thanks for all the help so you won’t guess what I did instead of six frictions and six steels, I only installed five and five, which led to the slippage and burned out the pack putting everything back together now I’ll let you know how I make out once I’m done Once again thank you…
Hi Alcatraz, I'm in Las Vegas...You can reach out to me via Facebook direct message if you'd like to chat further and get a quote for a rebuild: facebook.com/profile.php?id=61565989906020
Good Nick, Put everything together in my 4R100, just wanted to verify something with you before I put the oil pump on… I am able to turn the input shaft in both directions by hand, but I’m only able to turn the output shaft in one direction and in the other direction it does not move, Is that normal? I’m assuming that’s why you don’t soak your… I soaked my frictions.
Hi Manny, it's hard to turn the output shaft when the the transmission is vertical as you have the entire weight of the components working against you. Install the pump then rotate the case horizontally and spin each shaft...If the output shaft won't spin at all when horizontal and not in park, something is bound up or misassembled in the case.
Hey Nick, need your help put everything back together started the truck and went through all the gear with the manual shifted and R felt funny checked the fluid was a bit low and added some more and tried again felt better but I wasn’t convinced…have all my forward gears when test driving had reverse for a little bit when I got back then I felt something vibrating felt like slipping and then I smelt burnt clutches and lost reverse trying to back the truck back up into the driveway. Any thoughts? Thanks for your help. I believe I felt them slip from the start when I engaged in reverse and got on the throttle. Installed the gf tugger and some parts from the sonnax hp kit. I used their 3 accumulator plungers and the transgo springs do you think me mixing the two would have caused the problem? I didn’t check my pressure but almost feels like it was low, possibly
Do a line pressure test before you pull it back out - you need to determine what line pressures it has. Confirm fluid level is correct first (add more if necessary)...If you can confirm line pressure is good, yank it back out and replace all burnt clutches and steels, check everything else over (clean the case again). If line pressures are abnormally low, you'll need to locate the reasons why. Vacuum test the pump cover and valve body following these instructions: www.sonnax.com/tech_resources/639-ford-e4od-4r100-vacuum-test-guide Did you replace your solenoid pack with an OEM version? If not, the line pressure control solenoid in that pack could be bad but you won't know until you do a pressure test then test the solenoid block itself.
Yes it a new solenoid pack but I didn’t check to see if it had the ex hole like the tugger kit talks about, it was new from Ford with an orange bottom cover
Thank you for watching, Eric..I'll have to take another look at the vid as it was a couple years ago or so but you're correct - nothing should be forced.
I just had an e40d rebuilt, all electrical is good. It doesn’t shift into second gear when it’s supposed to and when the solenoids switch for 3rd it shifts into second gear. When both solenoids go off it skips third ad goes into O/D. Any idea what the builder could have done to the valve body to cause this? Thanks
Some questions: 1) Did you have any of these issues prior to the rebuild? 2) Was the solenoid pack replaced during the overhaul? 3) Do you have a check engine light or overdrive light on? If so, what are the codes? 4) How late is the 1-2 shift in terms of vehicle speed? Late 1-2 shifts are usually associated with sticking 1-2 accumulator valve in the accumulator body. 5) Are you not able to achieve third gear at all or is it possible that you are skipping second gear all together and shifting to third gear (when you think you're in second) then fourth gear? 6) Does the fluid smell burnt? 7) What, if any, shift kit or other non-stock parts installed? The solenoid firing sequence for E4OD/4R100 transmissions is as follows: 1st gear: Sol A - on; Sol B - off 2nd gear: Sol A - on; Sol B - on 3rd gear: Sol A - off; Sol B - on 4th gear: Sol A - off; Sol B - off A common problem with E4OD/4R100/5R110 transmissions is a no 2-3 upshift condition caused by stuck/sticking 2-3 shift valve after rebuild. This is caused by over-torqued valve body bolts that are proximate to the 2-3 shift valve during reassembly. Not sure if this is your problem; answer to question 5 will let me know if it's relevant to consider.
@@nickstransmissions 1. transmission was working perfectly before rebuilt other than it was overheating on the interstate. 2. yes a new solenoid pack was installed, and yesterday I tried a second solenoid pack. No change 3. no check engine light, and we had one trouble code for solenoid 2 low voltage. with a multimeter in the harness voltage seems to be correct .7 to .8 when activated and battery voltage when not activated. 4. with a pair of multimeters hooked to harness when 2nd gear is activated the transmission does not shift, run it up a few more rpms and when third gear is activated according to the voltage readings the truck shifts into second gear but solenoids are showing third gear is activated. 5. the only time i have got third gear is on the highway in overdrive and i get the truck to kickdown, then it will go into third gear. when the truck shifts from second to overdrive it drops like 1000 rpms and is clearly skipping third. 6. In the 20 miles that are on the transmission the fluid has darkened up some but does not smell burnt at all, trans temperature has not went over 130 degrees 7. I would have to ask the builder if there was a shift kit installed It seems like anytime solenoid B or 2 is activated the transmission has the issues Also yesterday I tested all the wiring to make sure there was not broken wires. All the wiring is good. I have a larger B&M pan on the transmission Also when I changed the solenoid pack I noticed a nut falling off the valve body . I found that most of the bolts where not torqued more the just past hand tight, I set my inch pound torque wrench to 90 and went thew everything. I also tried the neutral safty switch, made no difference. Thanks
Yep, sounds like your electrical system and solenoid pack seem to be working fine as you mentioned initially (it's always good to have the details as to what was done to confirm/deny)...So, the suspected causes are 1-2 and/or 2-3 shift valves (main valve body), 1-2 and 2-3 accumulator valves (accumulator body) and check ball placement on the case. E4ODs take 'n' number of case check balls based on prod year as follows: 1989 - 10 CBs 1990-1995 - 9 CBs 1996-1998 - 8 CBs All E4OD and 4R100 transmissions must have the Transgo Tugger and/or Sonnax Zip kit installed as those kits contain numerous updates and product improvement parts that address a multitude of factory-designed issues that lead to several pattern failures when the trans is in service. One of those is sticking 1-2 and 2-3 accumulator valves in the accumulator body - the factory coated aluminum valves often hang up in the bores and should be replaced with the steel valves that come in the kit. The builder should also be polishing these bores so there are no 'high' spots for the valves to hang up. Nearly every E4OD and 4R100 requires this to be done on at least one of those valves. If your builder did not install any shift kit or make any of the other required updates in the case (spiral lock snap ring in the OD piston return spring assembly, stabilizer case ring for the center support (center support needs machining), brazing the overrun clutch drum), I would strongly recommend taking it back and having them do so. The fact that none of the VB bolts were torqued to spec leads me to believe other things may have been missed or neglected as well. If you haven't already done so, check out the first video in my series on Rebuilding the 4R100 where I lay out all of the things builders should do to any E4OD and 4R100 that comes in for its first overhaul so you can query your builder to see if any of that stuff was done to your transmission.
Tonight I pulled apart the entire valve body and cleaned everything and made sure everything is free and moving properly. Rebuilder did tell me he never took apart the valve body… all 8 balls are in but one of them can move between 2 holes in the plate. Other than that everything looks perfectly…
@@nickstransmissions still no luck! I took the truck back to the builder, they pulled the transmission back apart and found nothing wrong and claimed to have pressure tested everything! Today we tried a tps sensor and put the original solenoid pack back in… also tested the speed sensor tonight…. Any other ideas??? How can it shift into the wrong gear vs where the solenoid power is???
Good day Nick, hope you can help me with a 4r100 in a 2003 7.3l e350. Great videos on TH-cam by the way. So I guess I’ll start by telling you what I’m doing…all bearings all thrust washers transmission had 94,000 miles when it blew the lip on the forward piston, everything inside was super clean. so I decided tp beef it up a bit. Changed the aluminum for steel six pinion planets in the rear. All new steels, Raybestos GPZ frictions. All new sprags, including the heavy duty one, milled Center support with snap ring, tig welded coast clutch, new center support sonnax bearing, new solenoid pack, sonnax oil pump reg size. The question to you is I have a box truck that weighs 10,000 pounds daily and was wondering if I should use the sonnax HD or the transgo tugger kits. What would you suggest? Should I mill the oil pump stator and body? Should I add another friction and steel to forward and machine the upper plate? I’m also using a billet torque converter from Goerend Torque Converter ( 4FBD ).
Hi Manny, thank you for the views and kind words.
Looks like your build is off to a solid start; you're doing a lot of the same things I and many other builders do to these transmissions. I typically install both the Transgo Tugger kit and a few select parts from the Sonnax Zip kit such as the PR valve, Boost valve and line pressure modulator valve. Most of the pumps have enough wear that requires some resurfacing so I always have the pump body milled out to install the Sonnax oversize gears. Adding another friction and steel to the forward drum is up to you but usually not necessary given that clutch is always applied in any forward range position on the shifter. I would replace the belleville style return plate with a new one, install a Sonnax one-piece rear case bushing along with new bushings everywhere else in the unit and overdrive piston return spring spiral-loc snap ring.
Thanks again for your insight, I would suggest that a possible video for the future would be a pump resurface… if you don’t have one already…thank you again for your quick and timely response… stay blessed.
You're welcome, Manny. I'll look into doing a video on the pump resurfacing once I have another 4R100 in the shop.
Hey Nikk, once again thanks for all the help so you won’t guess what I did instead of six frictions and six steels, I only installed five and five, which led to the slippage and burned out the pack putting everything back together now I’ll let you know how I make out once I’m done Once again thank you…
You're welcome, Manny!
just out of curiosity where are you located im gonna be have my 03 7.3 fixed soon and wanting it upgraded for towing heavy
Hi Alcatraz, I'm in Las Vegas...You can reach out to me via Facebook direct message if you'd like to chat further and get a quote for a rebuild: facebook.com/profile.php?id=61565989906020
Good Nick, Put everything together in my 4R100, just wanted to verify something with you before I put the oil pump on… I am able to turn the input shaft in both directions by hand, but I’m only able to turn the output shaft in one direction and in the other direction it does not move, Is that normal? I’m assuming that’s why you don’t soak your… I soaked my frictions.
Hi Manny, it's hard to turn the output shaft when the the transmission is vertical as you have the entire weight of the components working against you. Install the pump then rotate the case horizontally and spin each shaft...If the output shaft won't spin at all when horizontal and not in park, something is bound up or misassembled in the case.
Do you have a video of the install with check ball location also?
hi Chris - Yep, check out my 4R100 Rebuild, Part 8: th-cam.com/video/HRWgmysaVu4/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for watching!
Hey Nick, need your help put everything back together started the truck and went through all the gear with the manual shifted and R felt funny checked the fluid was a bit low and added some more and tried again felt better but I wasn’t convinced…have all my forward gears when test driving had reverse for a little bit when I got back then I felt something vibrating felt like slipping and then I smelt burnt clutches and lost reverse trying to back the truck back up into the driveway. Any thoughts? Thanks for your help. I believe I felt them slip from the start when I engaged in reverse and got on the throttle.
Installed the gf tugger and some parts from the sonnax hp kit. I used their 3 accumulator plungers and the transgo springs do you think me mixing the two would have caused the problem? I didn’t check my pressure but almost feels like it was low, possibly
Do a line pressure test before you pull it back out - you need to determine what line pressures it has. Confirm fluid level is correct first (add more if necessary)...If you can confirm line pressure is good, yank it back out and replace all burnt clutches and steels, check everything else over (clean the case again). If line pressures are abnormally low, you'll need to locate the reasons why. Vacuum test the pump cover and valve body following these instructions: www.sonnax.com/tech_resources/639-ford-e4od-4r100-vacuum-test-guide
Did you replace your solenoid pack with an OEM version?
If not, the line pressure control solenoid in that pack could be bad but you won't know until you do a pressure test then test the solenoid block itself.
Yes it a new solenoid pack but I didn’t check to see if it had the ex hole like the tugger kit talks about, it was new from Ford with an orange bottom cover
You should polish the burr that is holding that piston in. Shouldnt force anything.
Thank you for watching, Eric..I'll have to take another look at the vid as it was a couple years ago or so but you're correct - nothing should be forced.
Nick! Do you have a shop? I need a rebuild of '99 4R100. DIY is above my pay grade.
Hi WC, I do but you'd have to be local to me as I don't ship. Thank you for watching!
I just had an e40d rebuilt, all electrical is good. It doesn’t shift into second gear when it’s supposed to and when the solenoids switch for 3rd it shifts into second gear. When both solenoids go off it skips third ad goes into O/D. Any idea what the builder could have done to the valve body to cause this? Thanks
Some questions:
1) Did you have any of these issues prior to the rebuild?
2) Was the solenoid pack replaced during the overhaul?
3) Do you have a check engine light or overdrive light on?
If so, what are the codes?
4) How late is the 1-2 shift in terms of vehicle speed?
Late 1-2 shifts are usually associated with sticking 1-2 accumulator valve in the accumulator body.
5) Are you not able to achieve third gear at all or is it possible that you are skipping second gear all together and shifting to third gear (when you think you're in second) then fourth gear?
6) Does the fluid smell burnt?
7) What, if any, shift kit or other non-stock parts installed?
The solenoid firing sequence for E4OD/4R100 transmissions is as follows:
1st gear: Sol A - on; Sol B - off
2nd gear: Sol A - on; Sol B - on
3rd gear: Sol A - off; Sol B - on
4th gear: Sol A - off; Sol B - off
A common problem with E4OD/4R100/5R110 transmissions is a no 2-3 upshift condition caused by stuck/sticking 2-3 shift valve after rebuild. This is caused by over-torqued valve body bolts that are proximate to the 2-3 shift valve during reassembly. Not sure if this is your problem; answer to question 5 will let me know if it's relevant to consider.
@@nickstransmissions 1. transmission was working perfectly before rebuilt other than it was overheating on the interstate.
2. yes a new solenoid pack was installed, and yesterday I tried a second solenoid pack. No change
3. no check engine light, and we had one trouble code for solenoid 2 low voltage. with a multimeter in the harness voltage seems to be correct .7 to .8 when activated and battery voltage when not activated.
4. with a pair of multimeters hooked to harness when 2nd gear is activated the transmission does not shift, run it up a few more rpms and when third gear is activated according to the voltage readings the truck shifts into second gear but solenoids are showing third gear is activated.
5. the only time i have got third gear is on the highway in overdrive and i get the truck to kickdown, then it will go into third gear. when the truck shifts from second to overdrive it drops like 1000 rpms and is clearly skipping third.
6. In the 20 miles that are on the transmission the fluid has darkened up some but does not smell burnt at all, trans temperature has not went over 130 degrees
7. I would have to ask the builder if there was a shift kit installed
It seems like anytime solenoid B or 2 is activated the transmission has the issues
Also yesterday I tested all the wiring to make sure there was not broken wires. All the wiring is good.
I have a larger B&M pan on the transmission
Also when I changed the solenoid pack I noticed a nut falling off the valve body . I found that most of the bolts where not torqued more the just past hand tight, I set my inch pound torque wrench to 90 and went thew everything.
I also tried the neutral safty switch, made no difference.
Thanks
Yep, sounds like your electrical system and solenoid pack seem to be working fine as you mentioned initially (it's always good to have the details as to what was done to confirm/deny)...So, the suspected causes are 1-2 and/or 2-3 shift valves (main valve body), 1-2 and 2-3 accumulator valves (accumulator body) and check ball placement on the case. E4ODs take 'n' number of case check balls based on prod year as follows:
1989 - 10 CBs
1990-1995 - 9 CBs
1996-1998 - 8 CBs
All E4OD and 4R100 transmissions must have the Transgo Tugger and/or Sonnax Zip kit installed as those kits contain numerous updates and product improvement parts that address a multitude of factory-designed issues that lead to several pattern failures when the trans is in service. One of those is sticking 1-2 and 2-3 accumulator valves in the accumulator body - the factory coated aluminum valves often hang up in the bores and should be replaced with the steel valves that come in the kit. The builder should also be polishing these bores so there are no 'high' spots for the valves to hang up. Nearly every E4OD and 4R100 requires this to be done on at least one of those valves.
If your builder did not install any shift kit or make any of the other required updates in the case (spiral lock snap ring in the OD piston return spring assembly, stabilizer case ring for the center support (center support needs machining), brazing the overrun clutch drum), I would strongly recommend taking it back and having them do so.
The fact that none of the VB bolts were torqued to spec leads me to believe other things may have been missed or neglected as well.
If you haven't already done so, check out the first video in my series on Rebuilding the 4R100 where I lay out all of the things builders should do to any E4OD and 4R100 that comes in for its first overhaul so you can query your builder to see if any of that stuff was done to your transmission.
Tonight I pulled apart the entire valve body and cleaned everything and made sure everything is free and moving properly. Rebuilder did tell me he never took apart the valve body… all 8 balls are in but one of them can move between 2 holes in the plate. Other than that everything looks perfectly…
@@nickstransmissions still no luck! I took the truck back to the builder, they pulled the transmission back apart and found nothing wrong and claimed to have pressure tested everything! Today we tried a tps sensor and put the original solenoid pack back in… also tested the speed sensor tonight…. Any other ideas??? How can it shift into the wrong gear vs where the solenoid power is???