I would double check your endmill diameter in your cam profile. If it is set to large it will leave the wisps behind because it assumes they were cut by a larger diameter endmill.
Just rewatching this golden video as I attempt to dive into cutting aluminum on my MPCNC. I gotta say I'm disappointed you don't have any new cnc related videos lol Or better yet a way to chat/discuss cnc related projects on a discord of some sort. You should most certainly rectify that shortcoming ;) lol
Single flute is definitely the way to go with cooling, and a big cutter -- for sure. You will not generate a lot of heat and chips will clear out on their own pretty easily. When you get into finer details, and smaller cutters, the high RPM becomes impossible without coolant. Hence I ditched my mdf spoil board (not a shapeoko, a custom CNC, but same issues) -- so now I'm rebuilt my CNC bed with 2020 extrusions and will be bolting 1 inch thick HDPE to it -- I tried using HDPE as a spoil surface on top of MDF, and works a treat, holds threaded inserts, holds tracks -- works with double sided tape, and with blue tape with CA glue. With a full spoil bed being HDPE, coolant is not an issue.
Nice! Only issue i think I'll still run into with the swap is the fact that my entire machine interior is bare plywood so it might still have to wait. Thanks!
@@AustinConrad i made an enclosure for my CNC converted mini mill, and I just painted the plywood with marine paint. That takes care of any issues with coolant - plus if you're just doing mist, not flood, just the spoil board gets wet.
I've been looking through those a bunch and it might be something worth pulling the trigger on in the future as more metal work becomes a thing. Thanks!
@@paulbuffington9709 I used that one for the Pro.... HDZ and spindle. I'm pretty sure my wife thinks my cnc is a expert in cpr, drives a ambulance and has ER privileges at the local trauma center. I just need her to believe I'm in enough danger for a HDM next!!
Great job. I’m a cnc machinist and also went the mechanical engineering route like you did. Glad I found your channel. Some advice, lie to whatever cam software you use and reduce the tool diameter and the little towers it left behind in the adaptive tool paths, or alternatively reduce the step over so the actual tool diameter covers all of it. It looks like a 1/8 flat so just put the tool d a thou smaller
I am curious what your optimal load was for the adaptive roughing. If it is too high the path will leave whisper lines in the part once deflection is added to the system.
By the way here is a video of a less rigid machine cutting aluminum at a very high MRR. Your machine should be able to handle this recipe. th-cam.com/video/zefnrPRvc9Q/w-d-xo.html
The settings are in the video. 0.23" which turned out to be a bit too much. I dont think it was deflection, I think the tool isn't truly. 25" cutting diameter. I plan to find out with more testing
Look into mitee bite work holding, and you might try compressed air for cooling. Yeah it’s not gonna lubricate the cut, but it might keep temps down long enough to do a extended run
Ya that tape worked out great. I've thought about the compressed air,I just don't have an air compressor big enough that it wouldn't be going off the entire time.
Not sure exactly what you're cutting out of them but some double sided tape and tabbing should work just fine. Be sure to deck your mdf waste board first and check your offsets. Also be prepared to give it a few trys.
Have you had any issues with the belt drive? I know i want a machine with linear rails but I can't decide if ball screw is worth the added cost. If all works out, I'd likely upgrade to a larger machine.
Belt drive is faster and cheaper than a ball screw with a con being the rigidity. Depends on what you plan to cut and how fast you're trying to cut it. Personally I haven't had the need for ball screw that justified the cost and many hours of milling later, no issues with the belts. Have fun!
@@AustinConrad Thanks! I have seen other YTers use them before and they gave the same reasoning. I am hoping to get a Shapeoko in the next couple of months. Until then I am continuing to use my crappy Amazon bought Genmitsu lol.
I cut some aluminum coins on my shapeoko 3, with a 1/8in tapered bit (it has a needle sized tip). It did an excellent job. I just had to cut very SLOW (or I'd snap the bit)... I used double sided tape and that worked great.
Nice! Ya the cutting forces get higher the faster you try to move through the material so the better the work holding needs to be. Fortunately double sided tape gets the job done fairly well.
The shapeoko 4 is also pretty darn capable but the linear rails of the pro add a bunch of ragidity. I would say it is likely just going to require a slightly different recipe but keep track of chip load so you don't weld the tool and definitely go for a single flute. Good luck!
How about some annealed carbon steel? One of my hopes for the xxl pro is knife blanks, but I figured i'd have to go to water cooled spindle and hdz...but the rigidity you're showing here makes me think it could do it if even it's on the slow and very careful side of things. Winstons video on his nomad and this video makes yeah...worth a shot.
I think it would do it. I'm in the process of an hdz upgrade right now but sticking with the router and I'll hopefully get some results and go from there.
The machine is typically used in woods and plastic. A big question that comes up is will something like this have the rigidity to cut metals. If you use the correct set up and machining approach, yes. It will cut metals.
Good content I’ve been want to Cnc a milling machine I have and this would be a grate tool for getting comfortable with cam software even if it’s not in aluminum thanks for the video
I do not know about Zirconium, but Diamond coated bits are the key for cutting alu without coolant. TA-C are even better. (Today's industry try to reduce - or eliminate at all when possible - coolant usage for environmental reasons.)
Holy crap Pete! I don't know how I've missed that after all these times but serious thank you! I just saw this and had to run down stairs and check. Yep, staring at me the whole time.
Reduce your tool step over about 5 or 10 thousands to help reduce the problem with the thin fins your seeing. That what the tool path over lap a tiny bit on your step overs.
@@AustinConrad Your welcome I had the same problem with my shapeoko the first time I cut aluminum but now I have built a full tormach size cnc mill so I have tons of rigidity and more to learn. Keep the awesome videos coming
Austin buddy, where did you get your router wrenches. I had seen those a while back on another video but can't find them. Can you help a fellow SPXXL practitioner out? Also, I am seeing how you are pushing your machine to the limits. Really cool.
Hi there, ya the one's I got where these: Park Tool PT-09 Shop Cone Wrench www.amazon.com/dp/B000QSZT0M/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_NYM10PJYP4343TG02G6Z?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Park Tool PT-09 Shop Cone Wrench www.amazon.com/dp/B000C12BZO/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_A48A0YCTM70927QNKPFN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Thanks for enjoying and good luck with your machining! Btw, if you use the spindle lock you can get away with just the larger one. Didn't know that until recently.
@@AustinConrad I've been in woodworking before I had a CNC so I had to change bits the old way back then so it was a no brainer for me. BUT, I have heard those too have a tendency over time to fail. That's why I am looking for the Wrenches. Plus, I like the rubberized handles for comfort.
If you would like to speed up the process a bit you should go full dept and take only 10% of the cutter diameter maybe 5% since its a desktop router this saves alot of air milling that it does in the different depts
It does work, my only worry to use it more often is the brittle nature of CA glue. So far the carpet tape works pretty well but is a fair bit more expensive
@@AustinConrad ah well, CA is not that brittle when its bonded to a surface that is flexible, ive run it in a.. well much larger machine plowing thru steel parts with a 20mm endmill saved the day being able todo so. :)
133IPM not mean nothing. there is no rpm,tool,depth or axial depth. i can cut same part 10IPM full depth and its faster. like i said IPM not mean anything and its inches so 90% people not even understand. chip removal is correct way tell how fast is it
I would double check your endmill diameter in your cam profile. If it is set to large it will leave the wisps behind because it assumes they were cut by a larger diameter endmill.
Just rewatching this golden video as I attempt to dive into cutting aluminum on my MPCNC. I gotta say I'm disappointed you don't have any new cnc related videos lol Or better yet a way to chat/discuss cnc related projects on a discord of some sort. You should most certainly rectify that shortcoming ;) lol
Single flute is definitely the way to go with cooling, and a big cutter -- for sure. You will not generate a lot of heat and chips will clear out on their own pretty easily. When you get into finer details, and smaller cutters, the high RPM becomes impossible without coolant. Hence I ditched my mdf spoil board (not a shapeoko, a custom CNC, but same issues) -- so now I'm rebuilt my CNC bed with 2020 extrusions and will be bolting 1 inch thick HDPE to it -- I tried using HDPE as a spoil surface on top of MDF, and works a treat, holds threaded inserts, holds tracks -- works with double sided tape, and with blue tape with CA glue. With a full spoil bed being HDPE, coolant is not an issue.
Nice! Only issue i think I'll still run into with the swap is the fact that my entire machine interior is bare plywood so it might still have to wait. Thanks!
@@AustinConrad i made an enclosure for my CNC converted mini mill, and I just painted the plywood with marine paint. That takes care of any issues with coolant - plus if you're just doing mist, not flood, just the spoil board gets wet.
@@kazolar thanks, I'll keep that in mind!
Those little Amana cutters are fine. I generally run them at 18,000 rmp
I invested in the SMW fixture plate and hobbyist mod vise with those mitee bites.
I've been looking through those a bunch and it might be something worth pulling the trigger on in the future as more metal work becomes a thing. Thanks!
Remember to tell the wife it is about safety ;)
@@paulbuffington9709 I used that one for the Pro.... HDZ and spindle. I'm pretty sure my wife thinks my cnc is a expert in cpr, drives a ambulance and has ER privileges at the local trauma center.
I just need her to believe I'm in enough danger for a HDM next!!
@@paulbuffington9709 that's right! I could be injured if a part comes loose!
Great job. I’m a cnc machinist and also went the mechanical engineering route like you did. Glad I found your channel. Some advice, lie to whatever cam software you use and reduce the tool diameter and the little towers it left behind in the adaptive tool paths, or alternatively reduce the step over so the actual tool diameter covers all of it. It looks like a 1/8 flat so just put the tool d a thou smaller
And the little towers will disappear when you lie to the cam*
@@edenochoa2337 thanks. Ya I think just a simple reduction in the step over should get it done.
Awesome video man!! Next challenge... foam cutting some tool holders for those cabinet drawers!
Thanks! Yes, drawer organizing is in the docket!
I am curious what your optimal load was for the adaptive roughing. If it is too high the path will leave whisper lines in the part once deflection is added to the system.
By the way here is a video of a less rigid machine cutting aluminum at a very high MRR. Your machine should be able to handle this recipe. th-cam.com/video/zefnrPRvc9Q/w-d-xo.html
The settings are in the video. 0.23" which turned out to be a bit too much. I dont think it was deflection, I think the tool isn't truly. 25" cutting diameter. I plan to find out with more testing
Look into mitee bite work holding, and you might try compressed air for cooling. Yeah it’s not gonna lubricate the cut, but it might keep temps down long enough to do a extended run
Ya that tape worked out great. I've thought about the compressed air,I just don't have an air compressor big enough that it wouldn't be going off the entire time.
Can you put build plans for your shroud?
Hi Logan, sorry I dont have any plans at the moment. Did it with a pencil and paper.
Shapeoko does great with both aluminum and brass and that's with out coolent and no pro upgrades
They do AMAZINGLY-AWESOMENESS with upgrades!!
Hello. What is the diameter of the cutter you're using? tnx
Hello, 1/4" single flute
@@AustinConrad Tnx mate!
if you just add aur assist it helps clear chips => less clogging and friction => less heat , so its kinda like coolant
What's AUR assit?
Good job! What is the type of aluminium you used?
Thanks! It was the general use 6061 aluminum.
Trying to figure out how to cut .025 aluminum sublimation sheets on our regular shapeko. Any suggestions? Thank you
Not sure exactly what you're cutting out of them but some double sided tape and tabbing should work just fine. Be sure to deck your mdf waste board first and check your offsets. Also be prepared to give it a few trys.
Impressive speed 👍😊
Thanks!
Have you had any issues with the belt drive? I know i want a machine with linear rails but I can't decide if ball screw is worth the added cost. If all works out, I'd likely upgrade to a larger machine.
Belt drive is faster and cheaper than a ball screw with a con being the rigidity. Depends on what you plan to cut and how fast you're trying to cut it. Personally I haven't had the need for ball screw that justified the cost and many hours of milling later, no issues with the belts. Have fun!
I have seen those blue handled wrenches used in other videos. What is the name brand or do you have a link to purchase them?
Park tool scw-22 and scw-13 (22 and 13 mm). Unfortunately the ones that came with the router were kinda crap and broke on me second time I used them.
@@AustinConrad Thanks! I have seen other YTers use them before and they gave the same reasoning. I am hoping to get a Shapeoko in the next couple of months. Until then I am continuing to use my crappy Amazon bought Genmitsu lol.
@@shrimuyopa8117 Fun times all the same!
I cut some aluminum coins on my shapeoko 3, with a 1/8in tapered bit (it has a needle sized tip). It did an excellent job. I just had to cut very SLOW (or I'd snap the bit)... I used double sided tape and that worked great.
Nice! Ya the cutting forces get higher the faster you try to move through the material so the better the work holding needs to be. Fortunately double sided tape gets the job done fairly well.
I thinking step over was too big that's why it left a small amount of aluminum there. Only my thoughts
Can the Shapeoko 4 do something like this?
The shapeoko 4 is also pretty darn capable but the linear rails of the pro add a bunch of ragidity. I would say it is likely just going to require a slightly different recipe but keep track of chip load so you don't weld the tool and definitely go for a single flute. Good luck!
@@AustinConrad Alr thx. We're planning on buying one for our robotics club. I'm just searching around to see what's capable
@@rookie693 sweet! If you call carbide 3d their sales guys should be able to answer more questions too
Well done mate.
Nice vid. Are you happy with the accuracy, and the cnc rigidity?
So far phenomenal. I wish the z was ball screw instead of lead screw but other than that I'm pretty stoked
what kind of aluminum is it? 6061? or some kind of free machining aluminum?
It's the very generic 6061-T6
How about some annealed carbon steel? One of my hopes for the xxl pro is knife blanks, but I figured i'd have to go to water cooled spindle and hdz...but the rigidity you're showing here makes me think it could do it if even it's on the slow and very careful side of things. Winstons video on his nomad and this video makes yeah...worth a shot.
I think it would do it. I'm in the process of an hdz upgrade right now but sticking with the router and I'll hopefully get some results and go from there.
@@AustinConrad Sounds exciting, can't wait to see.
I like your camera work!!
Thanks!
Which software do you use for generating toolpaths?
Fusion 360
@@AustinConrad h
Time to upgrade to a water cooled spindle! Really cut that noise level down.
Tell the wife the neighbors complained and that it's a must!
You have read my mind sir!
I have never heard of this machine.. The video seems to be for those who know what it is and what it normally cuts.
The machine is typically used in woods and plastic. A big question that comes up is will something like this have the rigidity to cut metals. If you use the correct set up and machining approach, yes. It will cut metals.
Good content I’ve been want to Cnc a milling machine I have and this would be a grate tool for getting comfortable with cam software even if it’s not in aluminum thanks for the video
Ya it's a great place to start for that!
I think I’m going to 3D print some type of air assist for mine
Let me know what you come up with!
I do not know about Zirconium, but Diamond coated bits are the key for cutting alu without coolant. TA-C are even better.
(Today's industry try to reduce - or eliminate at all when possible - coolant usage for environmental reasons.)
Your videos are fantastic. You are on your way to Vince Ramriez levels if you keep it up.
Thanks!
You don't need coolent to cut aluminium, you need the right bits to cut dry. DLC or similar coated bits will give you this result.
don't even need coated bits. just need single flute ideally.
@@chrishayes5755 DLC bits give a cleaner finish and less prone to build of aluminium. They are designed to cut without the need for lubrication.
you do not need two wrenches to change bits on the router austin there is a spindle lock on it :)
Holy crap Pete! I don't know how I've missed that after all these times but serious thank you! I just saw this and had to run down stairs and check. Yep, staring at me the whole time.
Reduce your tool step over about 5 or 10 thousands to help reduce the problem with the thin fins your seeing. That what the tool path over lap a tiny bit on your step overs.
Thanks!
@@AustinConrad Your welcome I had the same problem with my shapeoko the first time I cut aluminum but now I have built a full tormach size cnc mill so I have tons of rigidity and more to learn. Keep the awesome videos coming
I bought a shapeoko 4 and I wish I bought the pro :(
Still a fun time!
What do you feed your cow?
I can never get a hairstyle that slick
Hahaha! Alright sir, out of pure curiosity, what the fuck does that sentence mean?
@@AustinConrad
Wait, that's not a cow lick?
What cursed magic is this ??!!!
Will it cut steel is my question
Try a 2 or 3 flute endmill
In the plans
Austin buddy, where did you get your router wrenches. I had seen those a while back on another video but can't find them.
Can you help a fellow SPXXL practitioner out? Also, I am seeing how you are pushing your machine to the limits. Really cool.
Hi there, ya the one's I got where these:
Park Tool PT-09 Shop Cone Wrench www.amazon.com/dp/B000QSZT0M/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_NYM10PJYP4343TG02G6Z?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Park Tool PT-09 Shop Cone Wrench www.amazon.com/dp/B000C12BZO/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_A48A0YCTM70927QNKPFN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks for enjoying and good luck with your machining! Btw, if you use the spindle lock you can get away with just the larger one. Didn't know that until recently.
@@AustinConrad I've been using the spindle lock ever since the small aluminum wrench bent with the one that
@@homezero glad you figured it out sooner than I did!
@@AustinConrad I've been in woodworking before I had a CNC so I had to change bits the old way back then so it was a no brainer for me. BUT, I have heard those too have a tendency over time to fail. That's why I am looking for the Wrenches. Plus, I like the rubberized handles for comfort.
If you would like to speed up the process a bit you should go full dept and take only 10% of the cutter diameter maybe 5% since its a desktop router this saves alot of air milling that it does in the different depts
look at stickytape and superglue method from nyccnc channel.
It does work, my only worry to use it more often is the brittle nature of CA glue. So far the carpet tape works pretty well but is a fair bit more expensive
@@AustinConrad ah well, CA is not that brittle when its bonded to a surface that is flexible, ive run it in a.. well much larger machine plowing thru steel parts with a 20mm endmill saved the day being able todo so. :)
@@roughedge-machineworks interesting, I'll keep that one in mind then!
I’m telling you bro get a water cooled spindle it’s incredible
133IPM not mean nothing. there is no rpm,tool,depth or axial depth. i can cut same part 10IPM full depth and its faster. like i said IPM not mean anything and its inches so 90% people not even understand. chip removal is correct way tell how fast is it
If the pro Shapeoko can do that then highly likely my Shopbot desktop max can do this
Only one way to find out! Tooling, set up and smart tool paths means there's a lot that can be done.
@@AustinConrad very true, I’ll be ordering a piece of 6061 and some single flutes to give it a go.
@@lunatic231 sweet!
use tape for cut alluminin? O M G !!!!
Definitely try an airplane. Should get you even better
I hate you, but I don't think I care enough to figure out why
Mistakes were made