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How to Prime Miniatures Correctly | Best Primers
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ค. 2021
- In this video I demonstrate the best technique for spray priming miniatures for your favorite hobbies - whether it be Warhammer, Warhammer 40k, your favorite Kickstarter game, model railroads, etc. I also talk about the best primers to use and when to use them.
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few extra things 1) shaking the can up and down does not mix as well as swirling. up and down just bounces the shaker up and down, swirling causes the shaker to start a vortex. it will mix much better, quicker. 2) dont reccomend putting the can in water "hot as it will go" it can explode especially with a full can. heat makes things expand remember. it just needs to be warm. 3) you can take the spray nozzle off the gw can and use it on other brands cans if you like it. 4) turn the can upside down after use and spray till only propellant comes out to clear the nozzle so it never clogs with paint drying.
Agreed on all points. I never thought of taking the nozzle off - I have a bunch of empty GW cans, I'm going to try that! And I'd only recommend the hot water for mostly empty cans. The 75C water from the tap shouldn't cause problems - unless you have a water heater that gets water to nearly boiling!
Never knew that
@@WatchItPaintIt You get 75C water from your tap?! That seems like a building codes violation :D
golden tips
My dear old mother managed to convince their plumber to set the waterheater to 85C around 15-20 years ago. I can't tell you how many times I managed to lightly burn my skin when visiting them after moving out. Luckily their new plumber refused to set the temperature that high on the new waterheater...@@zuckasttv
I've been painting for 5 years and learned something new from this short video. Thank you!!
Right on! :) I'm still learning new things from other painters too. Everyone I talk to or watch on YT seems to do things just a little different, which is cool.
This is indeed a helpful video for people who don´t know about primers and their reason/advantages.
Another pro is, after priming a mini, you can see the details better.
I also wanted to mention the prices, because for me GW and Army Painter are almost the same, but then I realized, GW has just the bigger discount at the shop where I am buying.
Yeah where I live (Canada) Army Painter is $15 CAD, GW is $20 CAD. The quality seems the same though.
When I first started painting minis in the early 90s there was no TH-cam to help. The only advice we had was info passed around a small circle of friends. We didn't know about primers or washes or varnishes. The only thing we "knew" was to paint the model white or black with enough paint until it started to stick. We used tubes of artists acrylic. Eventually you can paint the models. After a couple of months half the paint had chipped off!
Yeah I hear ya :) I had a ton of testors paints in the little glass bottles. Washes didn't exist - and all of my decals peeled off from no varnish cover :D
Thank you so much! Just got my first miniatures in the fallout board game and the water bottle trick helped me a lot. Really glad I watched this because I saw a video of someone painting them without primer so i didn’t know if it was necessary
Little late to the video but started painting models for my daughter of her favorite characters. These will be my first Resin models and I have been soaking in all I can to do the best possible paint job. This was very helpful, because I was really scared to use the spray primer out of fear of over spraying or it covering details. I do have an air brush as well…it’s my husband’s not mine and I have never used it before so need to get the basics down and use it on practice models first before feeling comfortable enough to use it on a project I really want to look good. So for now I will be using Citadel (Heard great things about their primer, it’s more beginner friendly and rather pay the more expensive cost, than go cheaper that is less forgiving on mistakes) So thanks for the tips
I'm new to this and just got the starter set and Gulliman ( Him and Dorn are just to badass from the books, so I caved lol) . This helped out a lot, thanks. Can't wait to get started.
Good luck!! It's a great feeling taking something that used to be grey and bringing it to life with color :)
At last... a simple and straight to the point video on how to prime...
Thanks for the quick and easy tutorial. Starting my first unit tonight and was unsure of application. Would not have thought to use a bottle. Probably would’ve just ruined some gloves otherwise.
This is really helpful but probably the main reason people like the rust-oleum paint well I know I do is it almost quarter the price to the army painter and citadel primers especially when you don’t have like an official miniature store that don’t sell them so you have to order them
same comment i left....i get rust-oleum from work....so going to use that today....first timer
In the UK, I would add Simoniz to the recommendations. Good value, and pretty decent quality.
Now it makes sense of what primer to go after for.I did use home depot bulleyes prime and let says it chaulk up the miniature and it looks like damage after usage. I learn thin or not thick prime will work.
It's very important to clean models in water with dishwash detergent (or something similar) to remove all thing layers of oils from molding process
only if they are resin (citadel finecast)
@@bowlofnuggets why only this type? And what about other board games with plastic miniatures?
@@PeterKudinov other plastics are generally fine if they aren't resin
I have an extra step of swapping out my good eyeglasses for my old ones. Getting paint blow back on my good glasses is never fun 😅
Thanks!
Yes :D I use cheap old sunglasses.
So I'm new too painting figures for my marvel and DC collections, they are lead figures.
Im taking an existing one and customizing it into another character
This has given me good information as I haven't used primer and Ive had the same issues when applying paint to the figure. It's either not smooth, has lumps, or I must add more for it too stick.
Thank you very much for this information.
Always helpful :) I may have mentioned washing the minis in soapy water first too :)
Yes - definitely a good step for minis from a cast mold (like KS miniatures). There's so many little things you forget to mention :) It's not necessary for GW minis though.
@@WatchItPaintIt very true :)
Well shit I done messed up then
great vid and thank you. like when people do the double show case....one with primer one without......i have rust oleum x2 primer.....heard that one was the best, or best cheapest....plus i get it free at work, so took 2 cans home...today going to be my first.....lets see how this goes...
Right on, I hope it works well. I've used Rustoleum on terrain with no issues. Just shake the crap out of it ;)
Excellent video.
Rustoleum primer works just fine
How long should i wait after appliying the primer to start paiting
?
Thanks for the tips, great video. What's the music in the background?
It's all free music from the TH-cam Audio Library. If you use Google's listen feature, might be able to tell you the exact song. I can't remember which ones I used in this video.
what its better, gray, white, black, matte, ultra matte, normal?
Hello, great video. I have a question
I used a white primer, let it dry overnight. But if I scratch with slight force it comes out of the figure, is this normal?
My idea is to apply the primer, then paint with acrylics and finally add a coat of satin clear rust-olum.
Should the cover protect against scratches?
That is not normal. What kind of miniatures are they? If they are not on sprues when you get them, they may have mold residue on them from the plastic molds they were made in. You need to wash the models with warm soapy water if that is the case. If they were on sprues then I'm not sure what's happening. If it keeps happening would spray the models with a matte varnish 30 after priming them. Then you can paint the models normally after that.
Thank you, nice bottle idea
I use an old vodka bottle (the glass is heavy so it doesn't tip over) and the caps from soda bottles.
You had me at the intro
You can probably save the citadel nozzles and use them on army paints
Yes, I've heard that! Haven't tried it yet though
I've used army painter, I've used citadel. The dollar can at Walmart works just as good.
I'll never understand this brand loyalty over primer. Vince Venturella had a great vid on primers, and literally says don't waste money on the expensive rattle cans, because they're more or less the same product, just repackaged.
@@ramonosuke- Been told that some of the specialist primers, like Tamiya, do have finer pigment particles, which giver a smoother result if you’re doing aircraft modelling. Never noticed any difference myself.
Cool guide!!
Thanks for the video!
You're welcome!
thank you I ma doing mega construx halo figures for the first time and I'm using the same primer
can you use Retributor Armor Spray Primer on thousands sons or do i still need the black or grey primer please
How many medium sized figures (like the goblin in this) would one can cover (approximately). I feel like I may be wasting primer.
That's a hard question to answer. I never really tested it. I'd say at least 50, but might be a good idea for a video!
Just wondering. I prime with nothing on my base like you do. Then add sand or what ever. Iv never had a problem of glueing gravel on primed base. Have you guys ever had a problem with lose gravel ? So far so good with me.
I almost always add sand/dirt after the primer. It doesn't need primer. And sand only falls off if I don't use enough glue :)
If you like the citadel nozzle ….
Can you swap it out and remove the army painter one and place the citadel nozzle on the army painter can?
Yes you can!
Do I need mini cans? Or will a walmart primer spray can work o k?
Any acrylic primer will work. Just make sure it's acrylic :)
@@WatchItPaintIt- Does it have to be acrylic? Many of the cheaper spray primers are certainly not acrylic. For metal minis, I’m not even sure acrylic is the best choice.
Liquitex also makes great spray cans. Besides they are absolutely odourless.
I haven't tried the Liquitex spray paints, just their varnishes - and those are VERY smelly :)
@@WatchItPaintIt surprising....my acrylic primers are not smelly at all...
Can i prime when it's relatively cold out as long as I put the primer in hot water before hand? it's not like snow winter weather but it definitely isn't warm.
You can definitely prime in cold weather. I do it all the time. I wouldn't recommend putting a full can of paint in warm water. I normally only do that when the can is at around 1/3 because the can pressure starts to drop off.
@@WatchItPaintIt alright thanks! I’ve had a can of primer for a while and haven’t gotten around to it yet
cool
I noticed you've got white and black In what circumstances would you use each colour?....im new to this
I normally use white if the model has bright colors (yellows, blues, greens, flesh colors) OR if I plan on using a lot of contrast paints. I use black if the model will be mostly metallics (metal colors go really well over black).
If you're ever unsure of what to use, grey is the best option :)
how do you prime when its really humid outside or just rained
It's not primer that's really an issue - it's varnish. You shouldn't have any problems with primer (in my experience). I've never had the primer do something weird in super humid weather.
How many basic unit models can you prime with 1 can? I'm new to the hobby and recently got an AoS starter set with 32 models and used up a whole can to prime them. I'm sure I didn't do it too thick, as the details are well preserved, but it still feels like a very small amount of models primed. I've primed them in bulks of 6-7 attached ~an inch appart to a piece of wood with a double-sided tape.
Hmm. That does seem like a low amount of models. Are you just applying 1 thin layer? I've never really counted the number of models that could be primed! That's something I should test out.
@@WatchItPaintIt I'm spraying them untill I get an even coat. I guess I used a lot of primer off miniature. Maybe I'm overcautious trying not to spray directly on the mini...
@@orzech1080 You do spray directly on the mini - but with very short bursts as shown in the video - never a long stream.
This gives smoother thinner coats - what you want.
Also, start the quick burst off the mini - that way, if there is a small clog or particle in the nozzel - it does not hit the mini.
I get dozens of minis out of a can. But with primer - as shown - you want a very thin coat.
I got one and I have no idea how to turn it off when I’m done
Hey Mike, I was recently priming with lead belcher and found it extremely difficult to paint on the pieces that I have primed, does Leadbelcher work the same way as other primers or should I use Chaos black for my armor pieces?
That's odd - I've painted right on top of the Leadbelcher in the past. HOWEVER I did get a weird reaction when painting Vallejo airbrush metallics on top of Leadbelcher. They started to bubble and react - it was weird. I've stopped using Leadbelcher since then, because I like the smoothness of the Vallejo airbrush metallics. Now I prime black, then spray on a silver paint after (using an airbrush).
Leadbelcher spray is good for getting the colour on quickly but I always brush a thin layer from the pot before adding any other layers.
I personally use rustoleum over army painter. Rustoleum gets a much smoother finish. Army painter almost gives a rough matt finish... plus I cant justify $30AUD for a can of army painter vs $7 for Rustoleum lol
hi! im using an fdm printe and looking to paint a 20cm figure, however i know barely anything about painting, just asking if i use a rustoleum or any kind of filler primer, i wont need to sand anything if i put very light sprays right, that and i wont need to add any extra primer after adding the filler primer, help would be very appreciated!
Unfortunately, unless you're using resin, it's hard to get rid of those lines. I've tried Rustoleum filler primer, it's ok, but you still need to sand it after. The rustoleum works fine with acrylics, so you won't need another layer of primer over it. I only use fdm printing for terrain, since it's ok if it looks a little rough.
Yeah that won't work as you will loose all details that you get from fdm, and it will turn out as effectively a blob. Printing without visible layer lines is very difficult with an FDM printer, and pretty much you need to be working at 0.05mm layer heights with low temperature material like PLA. Alternitivly, something you could look into, to get a smoother surface to prime, would be ABS and acetone smoothing, though a organic vapour mask is necessary for this.
Pull, 180, pull, done!
Sounds like when I go to a club!
@@WatchItPaintIt 😂😂
Hello. What about a white primer?
Nice channel and video.
Used to prime in white. Switched to darker colours - dark browns, dark greens, black - because then the deep recesses on the mini get a default coat of shading. You can always add a thin layer of white - or better still, off-white or beige - at the end, sprayed from above.
Don;t know if you still chech these comments but a while ago I got into tabletop and had bought some supplies, I've been trying to get back into the hobby and I could probably still find my 8 year old GW primer can, I was just wondering if it's recommended to just but the can in hot water for a bit or if I should just buy a new can, is there any side affects to using really old primers and paints?
It will have separated like mad, and may even have dried. I would just shake it for 10 minutes and test it on one model. If you like how it primed, go ham, if you don’t, buy a new can!
Can you take the nozel off a citadel can and use it on krylon and rustoleum for a more even coverage?
I've heard you CAN do that. I haven't tried it yet, but I will the next time a citadel can is empty.
Ace hardware has a nice thin iron oxide no gloss primer.
Whenever i prime i always get like these little cracked spots anyone know what to do about it
How long should I let the primer dry before applying my paint?
Depends how warm it is but I wait about 20 minutes
@@WatchItPaintIt- if the primer is acrylic, then 20 mins should be plenty. But for cheaper generic primers there can still be a lot of propellant mixed in with the paint, which leaves a strong smell until it fully evaporates. Not sure it’s a good idea to seal that in with a new layer of paint.
For that reason: (a) leave the mini outside to dry for at least a few hours, preferably in a light breeze; (b) let it stand indoors in a warm, ventilated place until most of the ‘pong’ has disappeared; overnight is best, and 24-36hrs is probably better.
Hi! Not question about primer but question.. What are these mini models u painted? Been searching something like these ones..
You mean the Orks? Those are from Games Workshop. Lots of hobby shops sell Games Workshop miniatures.
Im mean.. :p what specific race from GW :)@@WatchItPaintIt
Let's hope people doesn't fall for that intro
If they do, there’s always our “how to strip your miniatures” video :D
Thank you for the useful advice in the video but my spray is coming out for more gaseous (literally like air freshener rather than a spray paint) is that from not shaking it long enough or a sign of a defective can?
Sounds like not shaking it enough like the gas and paint hasn’t mixed?
@@WatchItPaintIt that is a good to description of how it appears, I shake it for about 4 minutes but would you recommend longer? It's White Scar if that makes any difference
Interesting! 4 minutes should be plenty! You could try leaving the can in some warm water - be careful it’s not too hot as create too much pressure. Otherwise perhaps the paint has dried up, or the can is faulty. It really shouldn’t be hard to get paint out! Could you take the can back?
@@WatchItPaintIt I can't take it back sadly but I've bought a new one from GW and if this works better I'll know it was a dud can and if not then I'll have to try and work out what it could be, thanks for your advice though! It's weird it's a normal temperature when I spray but the paint is dry to the touch as soon as it hits the model, whereas I remember that it used to be really wet and take a while to dry
Does it need primed with Hero Quest 3D printer board or just painting colours straight? Also it says do not get it on your skin (as a warning). But you did.
You should always prime your miniatures before you paint them, otherwise the paint won't stick very well. I usually wear gloves when I prime, I just forgot this time!
@@WatchItPaintIt Go to doctor and check your health
Its probably a year late but i want to ask as i just started to learn how to paint, do i really have to apply primer over and over until the original color of the model completely covered by the color of primer?
I noticed and afraid if i do so the detail might be missing due covered by the primer. So it is okay as long as its just covered the model and not changed the color entirely before moving to paint?
Thank you!!
You do NOT need complete coverage on the model. It's fine to see a bit of the plastic color underneath - especially with white primers. You just need a little bit of primer on there so the other paints can adhere better.
which type of primer finish is better for models and terrain. gloss or matt?
Definitely matte. Paint has a hard time sticking to glossy surface.
Hi, I'm new to 28mm miniatures. Do you recommend a primer that makes minis look like a pewter figure? So I have no intention of painting them, just to display them.. I just don't like the cheap plastic look of the standard grey.
Maybe check out our slapchop video. Try a black primer and a quick (very little skill or expense) white dry brush over it to pop out all the details
Should you use white or black primer on minis?
If you're painting with speed paints or contrast paints then you should prime with white. For regular paints I find black or even gray primer is best.
Is rust-oleum 2x cover primer good for minis? I am trying to save money because buying the minis & stuff just to put the minis together, have already been a big chunk of change & haven't even put them together yet. It says it works on plastic but I heard that some can melt the plastic so idk what to go with. Really don't wanna go with GW unless I have to
I've heard of lots of people using Rustoleum or Krylon and saying they love it. If it's acrylic primer, it won't melt plastic.
Key is not to spray too close to your minis. It usually says on the can the minimum distance - typically 25cm to 30cm (about a foot). This allows most of the propellant to evaporate before it reaches the model. Any closer and too much propellant remains mixed in with the paint and may corrode the plastic.
@sirrathersplendid4825 I did end up getting some army painter red primer but haven't used it yet. Thank you for the advice!
There's no upside to the burst method. Just hold it down and wiggle it. Much easier and quicker.
Do I need to use a mask with filters (if so any recommendations) or is just a regular medical mask ok?
I'd go with a mask with filters if you plan on using varnish (which you should).
hello, two questions, what determines the color of the primer you are going to use? and is it the same to use abbadon black for example (base paint) than a primer in spay? cool video helps a lot
"Base" colors are just higher in pigment than layer colors, but you can't use them as primers. There are brush on primers but Games Workshop doesn't have any.
As for which primer color to use, I use black if there is a lot of armor on the model. Metal colors look best over black. Grey is good for pretty much anything, and white is great for contrast paints or lighter colored paint schemes (light clothes, skin, etc.) Really though, you can use any color for any paint scheme.
One good thing about the Army Painter primer is the color match with the paints. Don't need to worry as much about the basecoat.
I wonder if using a sponge right after each primer spray might protect against some sloppy technique or equipment. Also I wonder if one just put like 10 miniatures lined up on a yard stick and just did ten time less passes then one at a time.
Lots of people use the yard stick method. I do it if I'm priming a ton of board game miniatures - but I wouldn't do it with Games Workshop/Kingdom Death miniatures since they're so expensive. There's a higher chance of overspray when you prime 10 models at once. As for the sponge - that would probably work if you did it in the first 30 seconds after priming - primer tends to dry VERY quickly.
Tried to sponge off some over-thick sprayed paint a few times. It’s never worked :-/
Even if you sponge within seconds the paint has already gone goopy, and you risk creating a lumpy finish with bits of sponge stuck in it 🤦
Is there any specificly recomended masks and glasses?
I prefer a respirator from a hardware store - the ones with the replaceable filters on the sides. As for eye protection I just wear cheap sunglasses - anything to prevent wind from blowing paint into your eyes.
@@WatchItPaintIt Alright thanks
Is double priming necessary? Still new to painting models.
Definitely do NOT double prime. If you miss any spots the first time, just touch up those spots with a brush.
Using "Filler Primer" for miniatures and being surprised it goes "thicker"?:) You know it's often used to FILL (hence the FILLER) gaps between layers in 3d prints? Try using normal primer from Krylon or Rustoleum :)
You're right! I only use that for plastic 3D printed terrain - it was the only rustoleum primer I had laying around at the time :) Though that probably looks misleading! I've long since used up my other Krylon/Rustoleum colors and didn't have the cans laying around to put in the video. Thanks for pointing that out though!
I'm not a fan of the way that the citadel cans don't actually say "primer" makes me wonder are they going to have the same staying power?
Yeah you're right!! I never noticed that before. But, I've tested Citadel & Army Painter sprays on hundreds of models, they both work in identical ways as far as I can tell.
Can i use an acrylic spray to make a zenithal prime over a black primer? (Sorry for my bad english)
Yes, I used to do it all the time. I show how in this video
th-cam.com/video/9DBJl_LKQtc/w-d-xo.html
Here’s what I don’t understand. I see videos where people are doing stuff to the bases. I like adding stuff like rocks and grass and the base is empty, but whenever prime your mini it’s on the base, so what comes first.
If you're adding mud texture or rocks, you don't need to prime that first for paint to stick to it - but it really doesn't matter. If you're adding plastic, wood, etc to the base, then you should definitely prime it.
It depends. Do you want the natural color of the rocks and grass? prime first.
When doing lava bases - I glue some sand and rocks on before priming - that way they take the later paint colors well.
When I am doing my desert bases - I put the sand on last - as i want it to be sand color.
Can i use grey tak?
Any putty would work, I assume :)
Is plastic primer okay?
Yes - Vallejo, Citadel, Army Painter are all plastic primers.
ty :)
quick question after i spray primer should i wait before painting it or i can just paint immidiatly
Wait a little bit, I tend to wait about 20-30 minutes in the UK.
ty =) @@WatchItPaintIt
Well, I just discover that I really put too much primer.
You need to do short bursts with the spray.
Question
Does the color of the primer matter? Like I know that black is better for armor and metallic colors (atleast I've heard) but say all I can find is black primer and I wanted to paint something yellow or light blue
Is the black not going to matter or do I have to get a grey or white primer?
Hey - Mike here. I always prime in black. But when you do, you need to build up to light colors. So for yellow, I would drybrush or paint over the black first with Mournfang Brown or Steel Legion Drab (brown colors) then I do Averland Sunset (yellow orange) then I'd use a bright yellow on top of that. For blue, just do black, dark blue, then your lighter blue. Usually 1-2 coats of each color is enough.
Does it matter if it's warm outside? Does the humidity affect the primer going on and staying?
Honestly I've never had problems priming in super hot, high humidity weather or artic level cold. It's varnish that gets screwed up by high humidity sometimes.
Yes, temp and humidity can matter.
Not as much once you are experienced - but in the beginning - it can affect it.
Beginners, when learning how to control and get their bursts right (correct bursts are in the video) - often hold the can too far away.
IF it is really hot (like 100F - not uncommon in some areas in the summer) what will happen is the individual droplets of paint suspended in the air will get a small of amount of "skin" on them - then the model will look gritty. This is called "dusting" or just gritty primer - and the combo of excessive heat and too great a distance can cause it.
Some brands of primer do not like high humidity - and take longer to dry. Gloss primer is more affected by this than matte - but that is just on how the platelets dry in the layers (this is speculative on my part). I have found thinner primers (GW, and another brand I forgot the name of ) are a bit more tolerant to it. Rultoleum light gray is not too bad, but army painter and krylon 2x are more sensitive to humidity when spraying outdoor.
The key is short very thin bursts - that way they can dry easier. Heavy coats are not as good - and just get worse with high humidity.
(again, the coats in the video are perfect - very thin, not too far, and fast - thus not as susceptible to heat or humidity).
I'm the WORST with spray cans. No matter how hard I try, also some splatter that I have to sand off, and try again. Maybe it's the cheap Rustoleum rattle cans I use..... :(
The nozzle does make a difference. I've used Rustoleum, and it does tend to splatter. However - I've heard that you can take the nozzle off of a GW can, and use that on other spray paint cans. Never tried myself, but that might solve your problem.
This is why you start the spray OFF the model (watch the video closely) - that way if the first part of the burst has gunk in it - it misses the model.
Also once done, whipe the nozzel of any accumulated paint.
Priming for the first time and it leaves like a leathery effect how do I not get that
What brand of primer are you using?
Too thick - and not shaken enough - it is shrinking.
Does the color of the primer matter?
It does actually. Obviously contrast paints will look much better over white or bright silver. Metallic paints look much better over black primer. For everything else I go gray or black. That way if I miss a spot painting is harder to see. Prime in white and missed spots are very obvious.
Light grey is my go-to but some models get primed in black so the colors look richer or more muted when you paint. The color of the primer dictates how dark the colors will come out.
I'd there a clear primer?
Matte varnish?
@@WatchItPaintIt thanks this will work ok?
Hello
Sup
3:24 Butt rubbing
😂
Small addendum: WEAR A MASK. THIS IS NOT A RECOMMENDATION. THIS IS A THREAT.
The aeresol components of compressed paint are toxic in even small doses and cause permanent neurological damage. If you do it unprotected long enough you will eventually begin to feel it. Get a basic 3m mask and filter from your local home depot or something, they're like 20 bucks and reusable.
100% agree. I have pretty good lungs so sometimes I'll take a deep breath and prime the model without taking a single breath, then start breathing once I'm back in the house :) But 90% of the time I'm wearing a respirator with the big filters on the sides. Even when I airbrush inside a fume hood I still wear a mask.
Do you wear a mask? I feel like it is hard to prime and not smell it once in a while.
Yes, I almost always wear a mask - though sometimes if it's a single small model, i'll just hold my breath until it's done. You definitely do NOT want to breathe in spray paint!
@@WatchItPaintIt What kind of mask/respirator do you wear?
Should have watched that before I ruined my combat patrol set…
There are ways to remove primer from a model.
Superclean degreaser will remove everything safely. It's many times better than any other in side by side testing. My boyfriend and I use it a lot.
The way i audibly cringed at that perfect display of how NOT to prime a mini
Yes! fuck me, nice spray acrylic paint particles in nature!
first mistake is wasting your money on GW spray paint. go to a hardware store, or hell even stores like wal mart/target. buy any spray paint, rated as primer for plastic. save yourself $20 or more
I usually use Vallejo airbrush primer now. 1 bottle will last years. As for non-hobby primers (Krylon, Rustoleum, etc) I find they go on just a little bit thicker. Not an issue for painting large models or terrain though.
Canadian instant dislike
😆
Are you sponsored by Citadel?! Wow, otherwise you must spend a fortune on primer. Get an airbrush.
Haha :) Definitely not sponsored. And I do have an airbrush - a lot of these are empty, from years of painting. I just haven't taken them to a disposal site yet. I really should use my airbrush more though.
@@WatchItPaintIt I have great results with Stynlrez through my airbrush.
Hmm, does anyone think that the paint industry is pulling this primer BS to make more money though? If they can make multi-colored primers that stick, why not paint?
They DO make "Primer & PAINT" combo cans. I sometimes use BLACK like that. But I prefer Primer, so I can sand between coats, and not waste my paint
It is not BS - they are chemically different.
The "paint and primers" are actually very different. It has to do with how the surface dries, and the structure of the molecules on the layers.
Primer has a different mix - the surfaces are rougher - so they stick to other items (the item you are spraying, and paint above it) better.
It is not bs - it is actual chemistry and science.
Those colored primers - they work - but they are not as great- and are much rougher surface - now, for most people that will not matter - but for some other coatings and what not - it can. (like if you are going to use a wash over "colored primer" vs. a non primer base coat - you will indeed get different results.
For even more chemistry - look into the difference between "flat" and "gloss" it has to do with the chemical bonds on the surface - and how it reflects light.
(yes, there is a lot of science in paint).