Is the jog area larger than the cutting area? I’m brand new and worried I may accidentally run my bit into the fence hardware. Would it be possible to make the fence equal to the minimum x and y directions so the machine simply cannot reach the hardware (and you don’t lose cutting area)?
@@brooksey097 If you attached a fence to the left of this wasteboard you could do that, but it would be one more thing to attach to either you base or try to screw in from the side into the wasteboard. Make sure to use your spindle to cut the left side of the waste board to get it perfect before you do. That wouldnt work though on the bottom since the Shapeoko has a metal frame there and you can't get past it without build up and losing material thickness
Very keen to get involved with the wonders of CNC Router machining. As yet I have not purchased a Router. However I am spending most of my free time trolling your very informative & educational tutorial post for using the Carbide Create software. Must say when I started took some getting my old head around it but must say after probably 10/14 days the mist is clearing & now starting to make sense. Thank you for your excellent content & looking forward to my CNC future. Thank you.
Hey brother, subscribed yesterday after realizing that I had watched like 6 of your videos. You do great work. Had my shapeoko for about 8 months now and this video put to rest my concern for the odd noises it makes when the x probes. Totally not the intended topic of the vid, but reassuring. Thank you
That k mark on the bit is actually called a crows foot and it’s a marking symbol for elevation, positioning’s etc. just in case you would like to know.
This was great! Love this idea, got the same machine and just got it a few weeks back, so I'm just learning and love your videos, but still need to catch up when time allows. I think going the extra step to square it to the machine is really the only sensible thing to do. Thanks, and I'll check out your other stuff. Andrew
for my cnc fence I made a gcode file that made a full L shape automatically, all you had to do was place the x and y zero in the place you want it to start (you can make it a convenient machine coord for simple remembering/g54 restoration. then it cut it in stages cleanly.
using a XYZ probe plate. when you do the X & Y. since the endmill has flutes the shape is not round so when you touch off on the Plate.. it wont actually be an accurate X & Y position. You need to use a Solid Round Shaft for X & Y and then do Z later with the Endmill installed
You can spin the cutter so the high point touches off. Or use a dial indicator and swing indicate. I have my starrett edge finder from my tool and die days but those you have to run at either 1000 or 1200 rpm so I think the routers are way too fast to use. Another option would be a drill bit installed upside down but be very careful that you only lightly snug it in the collet so you don't wreck the collet spring. But yeah 1/4" dowel pin is the best quick and dirty method. Gets you close enough.
Another point would be to make sure your endmill cutter is low enough that the spiral edge of cutter will touch at its furthest point. Example: the 201 cutter that comes with the shapeoko is a 3 flute. 250in diameter and the side has a cutting edge of .750in. If the end of the cutter is dropped the full .75in below the top surface of the object you're touching off of there is always going to be 1 or 2 points at the full .250inch diameter touching the wall you are touching off on. If you are about 1/2" below the surface at least 1 point will be at the correct diameter. My suggestion would be to make sure you have dropped the cutter below the top surface enough so there is always one of the flutes touching off at its full diameter so you get an accurate touch off.
One suggestion could you adjust the volume on your videos while cutting or have no sound. It goes from your soft speaking to loud vacuums screeching. I love your videos and thank you for sharing. You really helped me learn how to get started with my shapeoko. Your step by step videos were great at helping me get started! Which from there I picked it up fairly quickly. But for disclosure I used to be a tool and die maker apprentice so I ran industrial CNC machines but that was a lil over a decade ago since I was doing that. I've only had my shapeoko for 6 weeks and i'm already considering upgrading to fusion 360 to do more advanced machining and designing. Carbide create is limited for what I would like to do. I honestly would have to say without your helpful videos and winston moys TH-cam channel I would not be as far as I am already. So a huge thank you for sharing your knowledge. Keep creating! If you can dream it, you can build it.
You could also edit your homing script so that after it homes to machine zero against the home switches it automatically moves to work coordinates 0,0 which is the point where your fences meet and have it zero out your DRO. This way you only have to set your z height.
Great video!!! Just an observation, when your touching off the tool should be rotated so your flute touches off on the touch off plate. In thos case your X is out by the depth of the flute
It's more accurate to probe the X at a deeper Z; (7:58) You are measuring the core/ chip evacuation part of the mill instead of the cutting edge. With a lower Z the chance of hitting a cutting edge is simple larger if a mill with a helix is used.
yes, it could be. but the horrendous, simplistic and buggy carbide software, in conjuction with the abysmal rigidity, kid toy quality shapeoko flat trashcan, do not help you either with programming, using, or actually cutting. avoid this expensive diy hipster crap at all costs.
Great ideas Ben! It took awhile but I found a local shop that could sharpen my carbide bits when dull instead of chucking them. Find someone with a commercial CNC and find out where they send their bits.
If you're cutting the parts put, like you did to make the fence, you only need to be square enough to make sure the material covers the cut area. Probing X and Y for that job is useless. I will say that the fence and a place to zero it off is useful is either you're doing tool changes, multiday work, or you're cutting something that has the final edges already on it (like engraving a panel).
removable precision (set) pins and clamps can be used for mounting the fence and other utilities/templates. ease of de-mounting combined with precision, rules.
I've just downloaded the svg files for the cam clamps; thank you. I'm new to cnc and am using carveco maker. Is there a specific size 'model' that the clamps were designed for? (eg 400 x 300mm mdf). I've tried numerous variations on the size, but the svg file appears to change to suit the model (and I don't want 400mm clamps 🤣).
Can you give me the source for those little 2 rail holdowns. Id like to use your table design on my CNC table. Also what is your hole spacing.... Thanks... Henri
Wondering why you didn't build the fence to fit just outside of the cutting area? On my setup (a Shark HD5), I have the fence only protruding into the cutting area by about 1/4" after the straightening cutoff.
Nice job. A little tip though. Your life would be easier if you had cut a chamfer or a small step on the bottom inside edge of your fence rails. Having the right angle created by the intersection of the spoil board and the edge of the fence creates a corner that's difficult to clean thoroughly. Having a small relief at that corner would make it easier to keep it free of debris. Cheers, R
Just a bit of a tip to you. Don't use the cutters for finding the edge of your parts. Because you will most likely NOT bump on the flute ( the major diameter) of the cutter. That will give you a false reading of where your edges really are. Use a smooth pin. Any size, just tell your program what size you're using. Then put your cutter in to set the Z height. 50 years of experience tells us what not to do. Learning is a process. Keep it up.
I set my fence on the limit of cut so I didn't lose cutting area also guarantee that the bit would not crash into the fence on a fast return to 0,0. (Easel likes shooting back at 3.8mm) Does your setup not position the bit at 0,0? Does this negate need for 3D zero probe?
Hey Myers! I just attempted to cut the fence.. I tried the free version and it went not as expected. It started to go good but then it started to go really deep and then it started to short cut the fence. Not sure what happened.. Maybe CC did something that was Incorrect?
I am trying to wrap my head around including the touch plate into the fence. Does the touch plate align the X and Y to the bottom corner of the fence (as long as the bottom left is selected in the carbide software) or does a touch plate only set Z and you jog to where X&Y are? Sorry, new to cnc and learning before I buy one, I am thinking shopoko 3 standard based on size.
@@MyersWoodshop Thank you for the reply. Perhaps it is just the camera angle that was throwing me off. From what I have seen in the last few weeks I think I will save up for the Shapeoko. I'm going to save your videos to buy the plans when I get the machine.
Hi I just bought the 3 files from your store I can load the Fenced file and the clamp file , But when I load the waste board file it loads some what and then it just sits there, across the screen at the top it says that Carbide create is not responding , so what do you think is the matter. Jeff
The wasteboard file has A LOT of calculations for carbide motion. When it 'hangs' get a cup of coffee, check the mail, and give your spouse a kiss. then come back and it should be responsive again.
When I tried to create the fence. It appears that the area for the probe is being cut on the outside of the area. I see in the video that when the probe slots are cut. There is one L shape and one straight line. My cut was two L shape cuts. I looked at the c2d using carbide create and the probe cuts look correct. Althought the top cut is not a complete rectangle. Am I doing something wrong?
As an aside I deleted the touch probe paths and recreated them. I then cut out the fence with no problem. The file that I used came from the blog. Both the xxl and xl show the wrong tool path. The small file does not bring up the save as option.
@@MyersWoodshop Does this mean you are saying that the free file is correct? Because I just downloaded the file and ran it. When loaded into carbide create the toolpath shows the path around the area that is supposed to be a pocket.
I would just make a small fence that I can cut out in one piece say 12" x 12" and then use a speed square and micrometer to set it in place with screws. this way you already have the cut at 90. you could then set zero for all axis and if you really wanted run a second path to cut inside edge. just the 12" fence should be sufficient to hold your peace in perfect 90 degree and use your clamps on the the opposite corner sides to hold down tight. Still a great video just though making it two pieces was not the most efficient way to make it.
sometimes 90 isn't always 90 relative to the machine, which is why i trim the insides once it's installed. Two pieces for a fence this size is a way to keep the huge amount of waste down.
What if you mount the fence on the machine wood floor, at the edge of the working board? If you do that you don’t lose any of your cutting area... (I don’t own yet the machine so I don’t know the implications of screwing something on the floor board, so just using my common sense logic here, if I am wrong in my presumption, please correct me)
I'm surfacing my spoil board right now and 2 things keep happening. 1) the axis is a hair off, leading to a step y cut and 2) it quits in the middle of the job and has done this 5 times now.
Ben - thanks for all your awesome tips. VERY much appreciated! do u have a vid on zeroing with paper for those of us that don't have a probe yet? thanks!
Ben, I have several bits with the "K" mark on them. Is there a problem with inserting the bit deeper than the "K"? This assumes sufficient clearance for the collet and the hold down clamps.
@@MyersWoodshop That's exactly what I thought. And, I suppose it could also help with "less deflection". BTW -- I bought both your spoilboard and fence plans.
@@MyersWoodshop It appears that you suggested 1/4" screws for the fence but the diameter on the cc file is .156. Should that be changed to .25 or is there a reason to make it smaller and screw it into the mdf?
X axis wasnt even set off the tooth of the tool. This is the only reason I dont like the tool setter... accuracy is always a pet peeve to me when I deal with microns every day lol :(
wow. that Shepoko team is pretty serious about marketing. it's a shit CNC kit, the equivalent to a cheap multi-tool that can do just so little that it'll cost you a lot of time and not do the job and you'll end up buying the more expensive tool, now you have a good tool but you had to pay for a shitty tool as well making things even more expensive
worst cnc out there. horrible, simplistic, buggy software, hilarious rigidity (axes are somewhat ok but table is like a blanket), can be easily derailed i Z axis,cannot remove z axis for cleaning, gets detuned easily, dust goes everywhere, belts easily skip and you lose xyz even when changing tool, 800w spindle is an overkill, an 125W would be more appropriate, the list of why this cnc sucks is endless. no tool changer, no spindle controls, no options in general. trendy, branded expensive trash for rich diy hipsters. i have developed gray hair in the first months of use, just because my friends in a 'fablab' (wow) bought it. you can get tons better machine in similar, same, or even lower prices.
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Is the jog area larger than the cutting area? I’m brand new and worried I may accidentally run my bit into the fence hardware. Would it be possible to make the fence equal to the minimum x and y directions so the machine simply cannot reach the hardware (and you don’t lose cutting area)?
@@brooksey097 If you attached a fence to the left of this wasteboard you could do that, but it would be one more thing to attach to either you base or try to screw in from the side into the wasteboard. Make sure to use your spindle to cut the left side of the waste board to get it perfect before you do.
That wouldnt work though on the bottom since the Shapeoko has a metal frame there and you can't get past it without build up and losing material thickness
Love this, I'm just getting started with my CNC machine so I'm in sponge mode and this is very useful information !!! Thanks for sharing !!!
Just got my plans. I Will get started tomorrow thanks.
You do a fantastic job helping us learn how to set up our machines. Thank you!!!
Very keen to get involved with the wonders of CNC Router machining. As yet I have not purchased a Router. However I am spending most of my free time trolling your very informative & educational tutorial post for using the Carbide Create software. Must say when I started took some getting my old head around it but must say after probably 10/14 days the mist is clearing & now starting to make sense. Thank you for your excellent content & looking forward to my CNC future. Thank you.
I’m waiting by the door for my shapeoko XXL supposed to be here any minute lots of projects to do thanks to you BEN🇺🇸❤️🇺🇸❤️🇺🇸❤️🇺🇸❤️🇺🇸❤️🇺🇸❤️🇺🇸
thanks pete! Looking forward to seeing what you make!
Hey brother, subscribed yesterday after realizing that I had watched like 6 of your videos. You do great work. Had my shapeoko for about 8 months now and this video put to rest my concern for the odd noises it makes when the x probes. Totally not the intended topic of the vid, but reassuring. Thank you
Thanks Tyler! Yep, its playing you music as it moves :P
Thanks for adding so much to the Shapeoko community.
No problem Josh. Thanks for doing what you do too!
That k mark on the bit is actually called a crows foot and it’s a marking symbol for elevation, positioning’s etc. just in case you would like to know.
This was great! Love this idea, got the same machine and just got it a few weeks back, so I'm just learning and love your videos, but still need to catch up when time allows. I think going the extra step to square it to the machine is really the only sensible thing to do. Thanks, and I'll check out your other stuff. Andrew
Thanks Andrew. I know if I didn't show that extra step it'd get blasted :P The CNC world is a whole lotta fun! Your gonna love it!
Was just thinking about a fence last night and bam, you went and made one. Nice work!
Somehow I knew you were, so I made one for you! :P
man, this fence has saved my life! Thanks ben!
for my cnc fence I made a gcode file that made a full L shape automatically, all you had to do was place the x and y zero in the place you want it to start (you can make it a convenient machine coord for simple remembering/g54 restoration. then it cut it in stages cleanly.
yep.
using a XYZ probe plate. when you do the X & Y. since the endmill has flutes the shape is not round so when you touch off on the Plate.. it wont actually be an accurate X & Y position. You need to use a Solid Round Shaft for X & Y and then do Z later with the Endmill installed
You can spin the cutter so the high point touches off. Or use a dial indicator and swing indicate. I have my starrett edge finder from my tool and die days but those you have to run at either 1000 or 1200 rpm so I think the routers are way too fast to use. Another option would be a drill bit installed upside down but be very careful that you only lightly snug it in the collet so you don't wreck the collet spring. But yeah 1/4" dowel pin is the best quick and dirty method. Gets you close enough.
Another point would be to make sure your endmill cutter is low enough that the spiral edge of cutter will touch at its furthest point. Example: the 201 cutter that comes with the shapeoko is a 3 flute. 250in diameter and the side has a cutting edge of .750in. If the end of the cutter is dropped the full .75in below the top surface of the object you're touching off of there is always going to be 1 or 2 points at the full .250inch diameter touching the wall you are touching off on. If you are about 1/2" below the surface at least 1 point will be at the correct diameter. My suggestion would be to make sure you have dropped the cutter below the top surface enough so there is always one of the flutes touching off at its full diameter so you get an accurate touch off.
One suggestion could you adjust the volume on your videos while cutting or have no sound. It goes from your soft speaking to loud vacuums screeching. I love your videos and thank you for sharing. You really helped me learn how to get started with my shapeoko. Your step by step videos were great at helping me get started! Which from there I picked it up fairly quickly. But for disclosure I used to be a tool and die maker apprentice so I ran industrial CNC machines but that was a lil over a decade ago since I was doing that. I've only had my shapeoko for 6 weeks and i'm already considering upgrading to fusion 360 to do more advanced machining and designing. Carbide create is limited for what I would like to do. I honestly would have to say without your helpful videos and winston moys TH-cam channel I would not be as far as I am already. So a huge thank you for sharing your knowledge. Keep creating! If you can dream it, you can build it.
ok.
My XXL should be coming in this week. I'll be getting some stuff from you on Etsy this week. Gotta help keep that content going!
Great job thanks for the help. Now I have a longmill mk1 30x30 will this file still work for me. ?? Thanks
You could also edit your homing script so that after it homes to machine zero against the home switches it automatically moves to work coordinates 0,0 which is the point where your fences meet and have it zero out your DRO. This way you only have to set your z height.
exactly
great idea! I just set up my cnc. great advice!
Great video!!! Just an observation, when your touching off the tool should be rotated so your flute touches off on the touch off plate. In thos case your X is out by the depth of the flute
Thanks for the tip!
It's more accurate to probe the X at a deeper Z; (7:58) You are measuring the core/ chip evacuation part of the mill instead of the cutting edge. With a lower Z the chance of hitting a cutting edge is simple larger if a mill with a helix is used.
yes, it could be. but the horrendous, simplistic and buggy carbide software, in conjuction with the abysmal rigidity, kid toy quality shapeoko flat trashcan, do not help you either with programming, using, or actually cutting. avoid this expensive diy hipster crap at all costs.
You trashed it. Now offer a better machine in the same price range.
Excellent job sir! Can’t wait to make my new Wasteboard (again) and put this fence to work! Thank you and well done! 👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks Brian! Looking forward to seeing what you make!
Great ideas Ben! It took awhile but I found a local shop that could sharpen my carbide bits when dull instead of chucking them. Find someone with a commercial CNC and find out where they send their bits.
I never even considered bit sharpening. I live in a small town so I doubt there's anyone local.
Great man thank you, I will do the same fence on my CNC
Hi! Will this setup work if the cnc is on the wall? Will it still hold the workpiece when gravity is pulling it away from the spoilboard?
Great idea, Ben, thanks for sharing!
no problem! Thanks Jason!
Just got my xxl, then went to Etsy and got all your files....thanks man..:)
What are those plastic/metal end clamps you're using?
Great work....as always Ben!!! Very informative! Keep them coming!!!
Thanks for beta testing Nick! I appreciate it! Also, great photos! :P
If you're cutting the parts put, like you did to make the fence, you only need to be square enough to make sure the material covers the cut area. Probing X and Y for that job is useless. I will say that the fence and a place to zero it off is useful is either you're doing tool changes, multiday work, or you're cutting something that has the final edges already on it (like engraving a panel).
That's why it's easily removable. It's not for every job.
removable precision (set) pins and clamps can be used for mounting the fence and other utilities/templates. ease of de-mounting combined with precision, rules.
You are doing a fantastic job on these videos. Keep up the great work!
Thanks dan
Another great video! Thanks for all you do!
Thanks kKeith. I hope they've been helpful!
Great video as usual Ben! I'll grab the file once I get my Shapeoko back up and going.
Thanks Scott! Looking forward to seeing what you make!
I've just downloaded the svg files for the cam clamps; thank you. I'm new to cnc and am using carveco maker. Is there a specific size 'model' that the clamps were designed for? (eg 400 x 300mm mdf). I've tried numerous variations on the size, but the svg file appears to change to suit the model (and I don't want 400mm clamps 🤣).
Excellent video
Another great idea, another great video. Thank You, Ben!
Thanks Ron! I'll try to keep them coming!
I appreciate you. Thanks for helping me get started with CNC.
glad it helped garrett!
Love the video's Ben, Thanks
Glad you like them!
Can you give me the source for those little 2 rail holdowns. Id like to use your table design on my CNC table. Also what is your hole spacing.... Thanks... Henri
I just bought the bitzero V2 and doesn't fit on the corner. What do you recommend to solve this?
love the cam idea !!
Wondering why you didn't build the fence to fit just outside of the cutting area? On my setup (a Shark HD5), I have the fence only protruding into the cutting area by about 1/4" after the straightening cutoff.
That could definitely be done.
Hello, great video, do you have a link, (i didnt see one) for the cam clamps you use ? thank you
right here: www.etsy.com/listing/1087096878/myers-woodshop-wasteboard-fence-and
Nice job. A little tip though. Your life would be easier if you had cut a chamfer or a small step on the bottom inside edge of your fence rails. Having the right angle created by the intersection of the spoil board and the edge of the fence creates a corner that's difficult to clean thoroughly. Having a small relief at that corner would make it easier to keep it free of debris.
Cheers,
R
absolutely correct. also a place for the dust to go!
awsome stuff u do ive been following for learning purposes .. and did your claimp setup they come out great do to your teaching on videos
Thanks! I'm really glad they helped!
Just a bit of a tip to you. Don't use the cutters for finding the edge of your parts. Because you will most likely NOT bump on the flute ( the major diameter) of the cutter. That will give you a false reading of where your edges really are. Use a smooth pin. Any size, just tell your program what size you're using. Then put your cutter in to set the Z height. 50 years of experience tells us what not to do. Learning is a process. Keep it up.
or you can put in the cutter upside down. but .005 is good enough for most.
I set my fence on the limit of cut so I didn't lose cutting area also guarantee that the bit would not crash into the fence on a fast return to 0,0. (Easel likes shooting back at 3.8mm)
Does your setup not position the bit at 0,0?
Does this negate need for 3D zero probe?
You could still get a crash if you're using a larger bit though, right?
Hey Myers! I just attempted to cut the fence.. I tried the free version and it went not as expected. It started to go good but then it started to go really deep and then it started to short cut the fence.
Not sure what happened..
Maybe CC did something that was
Incorrect?
Can you explain what flattening is? Great video by the way!
it makes the wasteboard parallel to the endmill/router.
@@MyersWoodshop Can you include a link to the flattening bit that you discussed in the video?
Sorry I found it in your other video
I am trying to wrap my head around including the touch plate into the fence. Does the touch plate align the X and Y to the bottom corner of the fence (as long as the bottom left is selected in the carbide software) or does a touch plate only set Z and you jog to where X&Y are? Sorry, new to cnc and learning before I buy one, I am thinking shopoko 3 standard based on size.
their touch probe does xy and z.
@@MyersWoodshop Thank you for the reply. Perhaps it is just the camera angle that was throwing me off. From what I have seen in the last few weeks I think I will save up for the Shapeoko. I'm going to save your videos to buy the plans when I get the machine.
the file for the small shapeoko doesnt let me right click and save on you blog page?
not sure why not. You can get them from my etsy also.
I have to say it... first!! Thanks for sharing!!
that just means your a true fan! Thanks for your support!
Hi I just bought the 3 files from your store I can load the Fenced file and the clamp file , But when I load the waste board file it loads some what and then it just sits there, across the screen at the top it says that Carbide create is not responding , so what do you think is the matter. Jeff
The wasteboard file has A LOT of calculations for carbide motion. When it 'hangs' get a cup of coffee, check the mail, and give your spouse a kiss. then come back and it should be responsive again.
Thanks
No problem
I wish Carbide would fix the retract height defaulting back to zero. I usually use Vcarve Pro but when I use Carbide create I forget about it.
Yep. I started this one with it at 10 and it changed it on me at some point. Thank goodness it was just the fence😉
What size is your spoilboard? Do you have the file for the holes? Also, where do I get those white clamps?
www.myerswoodshop.com/blog/wasteboard will answer all your questions.
Thank you very much. Great great videos!!
No problem! Glad they helped!
When I tried to create the fence. It appears that the area for the probe is being cut on the outside of the area. I see in the video that when the probe slots are cut. There is one L shape and one straight line. My cut was two L shape cuts. I looked at the c2d using carbide create and the probe cuts look correct. Althought the top cut is not a complete rectangle. Am I doing something wrong?
The probe area should be a pocket cut
I have a picture of the cuts showing that the area that should be cut is still there with a cut all the way around. Don't know how to post a picture.
As an aside I deleted the touch probe paths and recreated them. I then cut out the fence with no problem. The file that I used came from the blog. Both the xxl and xl show the wrong tool path. The small file does not bring up the save as option.
@@MyersWoodshop Does this mean you are saying that the free file is correct? Because I just downloaded the file and ran it. When loaded into carbide create the toolpath shows the path around the area that is supposed to be a pocket.
Having your router gouge your piece like that is the absolute worst feeling ever lol, no matter what it is you're making
NIce Work
What's the hardware that goes under the wasteboard?
The links to them are in the description
I can not find those oops clamps ANYWHERE!!! Man!
www.suckitdustboot.com/oops-clamps
They are sold out. I made my own using this file. www.thingiverse.com/thing:3363392
I would just make a small fence that I can cut out in one piece say 12" x 12" and then use a speed square and micrometer to set it in place with screws. this way you already have the cut at 90. you could then set zero for all axis and if you really wanted run a second path to cut inside edge. just the 12" fence should be sufficient to hold your peace in perfect 90 degree and use your clamps on the the opposite corner sides to hold down tight. Still a great video just though making it two pieces was not the most efficient way to make it.
sometimes 90 isn't always 90 relative to the machine, which is why i trim the insides once it's installed. Two pieces for a fence this size is a way to keep the huge amount of waste down.
What if you mount the fence on the machine wood floor, at the edge of the working board? If you do that you don’t lose any of your cutting area... (I don’t own yet the machine so I don’t know the implications of screwing something on the floor board, so just using my common sense logic here, if I am wrong in my presumption, please correct me)
Yeah, you could do that. But making it removable would be the key.
I'm surfacing my spoil board right now and 2 things keep happening. 1) the axis is a hair off, leading to a step y cut and 2) it quits in the middle of the job and has done this 5 times now.
i bet your vac is killing the usb connectivity.
Ben - thanks for all your awesome tips. VERY much appreciated! do u have a vid on zeroing with paper for those of us that don't have a probe yet? thanks!
I think I do it on part 2 of carbide create how to
Hi I downloaded your wasteboard. It won’t let me load your file in motion. I’m new to Cnc and was curious if you know why
You have to open it in carbides great first, then save gcode in toolpaths tab, then load that gcode into motion.
@@MyersWoodshop ill try that thanks you
No problem
@@MyersWoodshop that worked thanks a lot. I have learned a lot from you. great videos. thanks for all your help
Ben, I have several bits with the "K" mark on them. Is there a problem with inserting the bit deeper than the "K"? This assumes sufficient clearance for the collet and the hold down clamps.
Nope. As long as it’s at least at the k you’ll be fine
@@MyersWoodshop That's exactly what I thought. And, I suppose it could also help with "less deflection". BTW -- I bought both your spoilboard and fence plans.
Awesome. Thanks Steve. If you can leave feedback on etsy, that helps me a lot! Hit me up with more questions!
Why not leave a little extra on the cut side and use the router to cut the x and y edges. It can be cut just jog the machine!
That is cool… does it work for X Carve Pro spoilboard?
I tried the file but when i upload it to CC it has no toolpaths :(
You need to have the latest carbide create (316). Go download the newest version and toolpaths will show up!
Yeah! It worked , thank you!
Your welcome!
@@MyersWoodshop It appears that you suggested 1/4" screws for the fence but the diameter on the cc file is .156. Should that be changed to .25 or is there a reason to make it smaller and screw it into the mdf?
X axis wasnt even set off the tooth of the tool. This is the only reason I dont like the tool setter... accuracy is always a pet peeve to me when I deal with microns every day lol :(
Nice
Thanks!
whats rong with your website the down load files are like a bunch of numbers or is that the g-code
It says clearly to right click, save as
If this line was in the Z0 position it would not be there. The probe was moving at zeroing ...
what line?
@@MyersWoodshop 7:41 this is your problem
@@MyersWoodshop 8:23 The button on the sensor is outside the measured element, so it moves. You must necessarily improve it.
Ah. It registers the intial touch. The rest is just inertia.
@@MyersWoodshop So it should be and if this is not the reason, there are 2 options, error in Gcode, wrong height of the probe in the program.
Sharpen your bit ! LOL
i know right?!
basic error, bit have too out. need be little more in collect.
the sound of your router running was painful in this vid. Good idea on the fence though.
I usually try to edit that sound lower, forgot on this one. sorry bout that!
dont see no tool path and iam up to date.. the wasteboard worked ... nothing in the tool path for the fence...xxl
your using the .c2d and have the latest carbide create software?
@@MyersWoodshop yes the watseboard worked goo had toolpath in it
@@MyersWoodshop oky sorry i didnt have the updated version now i do and i see the toolpaths ...will do the fence tommorrow ty...
wow. that Shepoko team is pretty serious about marketing. it's a shit CNC kit, the equivalent to a cheap multi-tool that can do just so little that it'll cost you a lot of time and not do the job and you'll end up buying the more expensive tool, now you have a good tool but you had to pay for a shitty tool as well making things even more expensive
For the about the same cost, which cnc would you recommend?
worst cnc out there. horrible, simplistic, buggy software, hilarious rigidity (axes are somewhat ok but table is like a blanket), can be easily derailed i Z axis,cannot remove z axis for cleaning, gets detuned easily, dust goes everywhere, belts easily skip and you lose xyz even when changing tool, 800w spindle is an overkill, an 125W would be more appropriate, the list of why this cnc sucks is endless. no tool changer, no spindle controls, no options in general. trendy, branded expensive trash for rich diy hipsters.
i have developed gray hair in the first months of use, just because my friends in a 'fablab' (wow) bought it.
you can get tons better machine in similar, same, or even lower prices.
Name a few
constantinos schinas maybe you’re just an idiot. Mine is great.
@@MyersWoodshop Queenbee Pre