Great video, thanks fellas. Very practical and no nonsense. An engine from C.O.M.E. have been at the top of my wish list for about 20 years now! Keep up the great work.
Backyard workshop.....yeah right....I'll bet these guys have built more solid reliable engines, than snotty nosed kids who make stupid remarks have had hot dinners.... Great videos, and although I consider myself reasonably competent in the home workshop, I've learned loads of good tips.... So from someone who looks forward to and enjoys these types of videos...THANKYOU
Assume you mean the torque wrench used to torque up fasteners? This is an electronic type from Sears Craftsman tools in the U.S I think you can buy their tools on line. I walk into their stores in the U.S whenever I'm there and buy what I need.
With conventional hydraulic roller or flat tappet hydraulic lifters you will see the best long term results using preloads like this. If you want a little higher rpm potential than a looser preload will help but at the expense of parts life. bottom line, if you need big rpm levels over 6000 go with a flat tappet solid lifter cam.
Not so silly. Use some plastic tubing on rod bolts long enough to go over rod journal as you push the piston into the bore. If using "H" beam rods you can make some simple threaded plastic rods (long) that screw into rod threads. These I believe are commercially available but I don't know who sells them. We make our own parts like this and using plastic solid rod (engineering or plastic supply companies) and a die nut you will have the same thing.
you guys did a 351 for me twenty years ago ran 10.2 no nitrous small port factory heads .ended up going 9.48 with small shot of nitrous @ 2300pounds building another motor soon ill be back for another bullet
May be a silly question, but when installing the rod and piston to the block, what is the best way to ensure the rod is going in square so the big end aligns perfectly with the crank, is it just a matter of using eye judgement and feeling it is square? Thanks
hi mate im building a worked 355 holden engine and i want to use a gear drive. u said gear drives are crap why? i bought a jp gear drive. engine specs are. vn heads flowing just over 580 hp with 2.05 valves. crane 300 solid cam. 950 qf race carb. torque power hi rise single plain manifold. your come crank rods srp forged flat top pistons. 11.5 comp. 4 bolt mains. stud girdle for crank. have u done a build like this? what sought of power would this engine have. any tips or hints would be good
I read HOT ROD mag to use feeler gauges both sides of con rods before tensioningif using reco resised rods check piston deck height both sides of pistons at top of deckas the rods can be bent during old piston removal, indication will be con rod side clearance will reduce after tentioning, rod nuts , plasti-guage is up to .001 inaccurate
If it's a backyard workshop, then it looks pretty schmick. I watched a vid where a dude seated o-rings on the piston by working them in with a chisel. His hands had dirt on them from the dirt floor he worked from. His rebuild wasn't a performance engine and for DIYer, it was a pretty good go. I'm not confident in the longevity of his rebuild though. The comparison to this vid is chalk and cheese. Measurements. Torque values. Clean workshop. Attention to detail.
I am a bit skeptical with this bloke narrating the video. The crankshaft oil seals on LS engines are Teflon and should be installed dry! Not to mention how critical the alignment of the front & rear covers is, bit of a back yard workshop by the looks of it not a professional engine shop..
Really respect the skills these guys have and that they are willing to share and help orhers. Great videos
Great video, thanks fellas. Very practical and no nonsense. An engine from C.O.M.E. have been at the top of my wish list for about 20 years now! Keep up the great work.
Nice to see someone measuring clearances instead of using Plastigage. Old school reigns.
Backyard workshop.....yeah right....I'll bet these guys have built more solid reliable engines, than snotty nosed kids who make stupid remarks have had hot dinners....
Great videos, and although I consider myself reasonably competent in the home workshop, I've learned loads of good tips....
So from someone who looks forward to and enjoys these types of videos...THANKYOU
COME RACING THOSE GUYS ARE GREAT NOW THATS A ENGINE BUILDER!
Really a good video on this subject. Thank you very much. Presently building the LY5 variant of the LS line of engines.
Assume you mean the torque wrench used to torque up fasteners? This is an electronic type from Sears Craftsman tools in the U.S I think you can buy their tools on line. I walk into their stores in the U.S whenever I'm there and buy what I need.
DONT NO WHY PEOPLE HAVE PUT THUMBS DOWN TOO U URE GREAT AT WHAT U DO EXSPERIANCE ALWAYS COUNTS AND EACH TO THERE OWN
With conventional hydraulic roller or flat tappet hydraulic lifters you will see the best long term results using preloads like this. If you want a little higher rpm potential than a looser preload will help but at the expense of parts life. bottom line, if you need big rpm levels over 6000 go with a flat tappet solid lifter cam.
I learned a LOT thanks!
Mitutoyo and Sunnen dial bore gauges. Mitutoyo outside micrometers.
Great detail in the video thanks
Not so silly. Use some plastic tubing on rod bolts long enough to go over rod journal as you push the piston into the bore. If using "H" beam rods you can make some simple threaded plastic rods (long) that screw into rod threads. These I believe are commercially available but I don't know who sells them. We make our own parts like this and using plastic solid rod (engineering or plastic supply companies) and a die nut you will have the same thing.
you guys did a 351 for me twenty years ago ran 10.2 no nitrous small port factory heads .ended up going 9.48 with small shot of nitrous @ 2300pounds building another motor soon ill be back for another bullet
carblingautomotive
May be a silly question, but when installing the rod and piston to the block, what is the best way to ensure the rod is going in square so the big end aligns perfectly with the crank, is it just a matter of using eye judgement and feeling it is square? Thanks
Curious as to why you recommend running so much lifter pre-load.
Funny how we never have them leak doing it the backyard way. Yes we are a backyard workshop if you say so.
I learnt this stuff in collage awesome
Why didn't use rod bolt stretch gauge on the con rod bolts. Other than that every thing looks ok
Great vid man. Think an inside micrometer will work equally as good as the dial bore gauge?
cesar enriquez with a dial bore gauge is much easier to read taper and out of round. Although it can be done it takes forever
hi mate im building a worked 355 holden engine and i want to use a gear drive. u said gear drives are crap why? i bought a jp gear drive. engine specs are. vn heads flowing just over 580 hp with 2.05 valves. crane 300 solid cam. 950 qf race carb. torque power hi rise single plain manifold. your come crank rods srp forged flat top pistons. 11.5 comp. 4 bolt mains. stud girdle for crank. have u done a build like this? what sought of power would this engine have. any tips or hints would be good
Hey man did you end up dynoing this combo?
That torque sequence tho .
Beau 88 top fuel teams use the same sequence mate
Out to in
I read HOT ROD mag to use feeler gauges both sides of con rods before tensioningif using reco resised rods check piston deck height both sides of pistons at top of deckas the rods can be bent during old piston removal, indication will be con rod side clearance will reduce after tentioning, rod nuts , plasti-guage is up to .001 inaccurate
Deadly mate I'm sending my 308 to them
what ratchet is that?
If it's a backyard workshop, then it looks pretty schmick. I watched a vid where a dude seated o-rings on the piston by working them in with a chisel. His hands had dirt on them from the dirt floor he worked from. His rebuild wasn't a performance engine and for DIYer, it was a pretty good go. I'm not confident in the longevity of his rebuild though. The comparison to this vid is chalk and cheese. Measurements. Torque values. Clean workshop. Attention to detail.
DerAngriff wtf o -rings on a piston? You haven’t a clue also I’m sure you watched such a video .stfu
DerAngriff troll
hello sir
Really don't care. It's a free country so everyone is entitled to their view.
I am a bit skeptical with this bloke narrating the video. The crankshaft oil seals on LS engines are Teflon and should be installed dry! Not to mention how critical the alignment of the front & rear covers is, bit of a back yard workshop by the looks of it not a professional engine shop..