I bought to the wife GPZ500S 1996 year. On a motor cycle began to squeeze out an antifreeze in an expansive tank, very much, so that a motor cycle began to overheat. After diagnostics of the state of antifreeze, the breach of exhaust-gass is educed in the system of cooling. I changed the gasket of head and polished the surface of head and cylinders, put all hoses on an encapsulant and washed the cooling system and a problem went away. To polish a head and cylinders 12 $, new gasket of head 25 $, new gaskets of valvular lid 30 $ (rubber). Work free of charge is the hands.
Hola. Siempre que se monta una distribución,hay que comprobar el giro del motor moviéndolo a mano.En todos los motores.Despues de girarlo un mínimo de dos vueltas y comprobar que va fino se vuelven a verificar las marcas correspondientes. Pero seguro que no te vuelve a pasar. Un saludoy buen vídeo.
What gasket is that? Are you sure it is double gasket? I have Vulcan 500, same engine but on mine, head gasket blown twice, compression is a bit on a higher side, possible reason for head gasket blowing, so I think double gasket will reduce compression a bit and save me a trouble :) Also can you provide part number for it, can't see it clearly in video...Is it OEM or aftermarket gasket? BTW you should have lapped the head and jugs, this will ensure you a very looong time without worrying about blowing head gasket again.
Before to put a new gasket, it is needed on a machine-tool to polish the plane of head and cylinders, necessarily! I am from Kyiv, for us it costs 12 $. In course of time or from an overheat an aluminium changes the form, otherwise simply replacement of gasket will help temporally and again gases will go in an antifreeze. All the successes under repair!
excuse me, i have a question: what's the logical link between head gasket and harrd manual rotation of the crankshaft? i'm asking cause my kle has the same behavior: every complete rotaion and half gets hard to push the crankshaft, while the compression and valves clearance are ok, spark plugs are brand new, and on top of that, the engine makes a pronounced ticking like noise on the right cylinder (i don't know if it could be related with a faulty gasket) which stops when i pull out the cap and continues a bit softer when i pull out the left spark plug cap. an anticipated thanks a lot!
Hello! I don't know much about this problem, the only thing I can tell you is that the first kle had a gasket that was approximately 1mm thick, the following models with restyling the gasket was approximately 2mm, I changed it thinking that the brand did it for a reason and the extra thickness helps to avoid contact with the valve, but the truth is that I still don't really know what happened and what the problem was, but it was solved, maybe by disassembling and reassembling... By having a thicker gasket, the valves are higher, and therefore do not touch the piston, and the rotation does not harden when there is no more count, that is my theory I hope this helps you, good luck
I'm seriously thinking to have one KLE 500, as an owner what do you think about buying 15 years old (or more) bike? even if it is kawasaki? I can of course handle the necessary care, but what if a serious problem came out? Do you think that it can be repairable?
I don't know what you guys are talking about. I take my old GPZ 500 to 10000RPM all the time and never had any problems. These engines only start to pull over 7500RPM and theres the fun.
jajaja there is a difference between the gpz engine and the kle. You can see that in the engine specifications, the horsepower or the torque. The power-curve is much different.
The very first gasket you pulled right after uboldting the top and replaced with some kind of caulking what is that one called? I'm a new rider and just as new to messing with trying to fix shit and I think that is the source of my leak . Before watching this video i actually thought that was the head gasket
+Biker Bob Hi!, I don’t have the video but i remove all the valves and they were perfect, straight and with no friction. The revs I think 10.000 more or less, that's too much for this engine.
You should have lapped the head and your valve seats so you won't have to possibly go back in the near future. I guess you're gold still since you got a double thick gasket but I don't think these gaskets conform too great to any level differences in the head. But hey, if it worked, it worked.
10000 is a lot on an older engine. I never take mine above 8000 and even then only very briefly. How many miles did the bike have when it needed the camchain? Mine had gone by 27000 miles
+Biker Bob I know, normally i don’t ride over 7.000 revs but the red line is at 11… I think it should be at 9. In my opinion this engine don’t really need a new camchain, the original should last forever or at least 100k km (that’s what I think, I don’t know..), but mine had a problem which is explained in the other video description. Well.. the bike is for have fun and that’s what I do, now it works fine with the double gasket (which confirm the valves are fine), since I did the video I ride 2 thousand km, I think I loses a little bit of power because of the double gasket but I don’t mine, it’s really bit. Maybe the problem was (or is) on the old valve spring? Or a little bent on the camshaft because of the high temp at high revs? I don’t know…
you can find it here www.manualslib.com/manual/693564/Kawasaki-Kle500.html but be careful, there are some little differences between the gpz engine and the kle, or the er-5 hope you solve your problems!
there is no compression when you dont have the spark plug, but in any case with spark plug should be hard once every rotation because its a 2 cylinder engine...
Refreshing to see i well edited video without a metal track in the backround
I bought to the wife GPZ500S 1996 year. On a motor cycle began to squeeze out an antifreeze in an expansive tank, very much, so that a motor cycle began to overheat. After diagnostics of the state of antifreeze, the breach of exhaust-gass is educed in the system of cooling. I changed the gasket of head and polished the surface of head and cylinders, put all hoses on an encapsulant and washed the cooling system and a problem went away. To polish a head and cylinders 12 $, new gasket of head 25 $, new gaskets of valvular lid 30 $ (rubber). Work free of charge is the hands.
Wow, you are quite brave to just put the head back without checking the valves for impact damage (stem bending etc). Nice video 👍
of course I've checked, but it's not in the video.
Thanks!
Hola.
Siempre que se monta una distribución,hay que comprobar el giro del motor moviéndolo a mano.En todos los motores.Despues de girarlo un mínimo de dos vueltas y comprobar que va fino se vuelven a verificar las marcas correspondientes.
Pero seguro que no te vuelve a pasar.
Un saludoy buen vídeo.
Wow wonderful, you make it look easy!
What gasket is that? Are you sure it is double gasket? I have Vulcan 500, same engine but on mine, head gasket blown twice, compression is a bit on a higher side, possible reason for head gasket blowing, so I think double gasket will reduce compression a bit and save me a trouble :) Also can you provide part number for it, can't see it clearly in video...Is it OEM or aftermarket gasket?
BTW you should have lapped the head and jugs, this will ensure you a very looong time without worrying about blowing head gasket again.
Before to put a new gasket, it is needed on a machine-tool to polish the plane of head and cylinders, necessarily! I am from Kyiv, for us it costs 12 $. In course of time or from an overheat an aluminium changes the form, otherwise simply replacement of gasket will help temporally and again gases will go in an antifreeze. All the successes under repair!
intento sacar los cilindros pero es imposible, alguna recomendacion?
excuse me, i have a question: what's the logical link between head gasket and harrd manual rotation of the crankshaft? i'm asking cause my kle has the same behavior: every complete rotaion and half gets hard to push the crankshaft, while the compression and valves clearance are ok, spark plugs are brand new, and on top of that, the engine makes a pronounced ticking like noise on the right cylinder (i don't know if it could be related with a faulty gasket) which stops when i pull out the cap and continues a bit softer when i pull out the left spark plug cap. an anticipated thanks a lot!
Hello!
I don't know much about this problem, the only thing I can tell you is that the first kle had a gasket that was approximately 1mm thick, the following models with restyling the gasket was approximately 2mm, I changed it thinking that the brand did it for a reason and the extra thickness helps to avoid contact with the valve, but the truth is that I still don't really know what happened and what the problem was, but it was solved, maybe by disassembling and reassembling...
By having a thicker gasket, the valves are higher, and therefore do not touch the piston, and the rotation does not harden when there is no more count, that is my theory
I hope this helps you, good luck
I'm seriously thinking to have one KLE 500, as an owner what do you think about buying 15
years old (or more) bike? even if it is kawasaki?
I can of course handle the necessary care, but what if a serious problem came out? Do you think that it can be repairable?
I don't know what you guys are talking about. I take my old GPZ 500 to 10000RPM all the time and never had any problems. These engines only start to pull over 7500RPM and theres the fun.
jajaja there is a difference between the gpz engine and the kle. You can see that in the engine specifications, the horsepower or the torque. The power-curve is much different.
Никогда не понимал людей которые не ставят лайки.
Did you have to drain the gas from the gas tank before you started i have a 2006 ninja 650 r and i need to replace the head gasket
No, the tank is closed with no depression from the engine (carburator) i suppose it is the same in your bike.
The very first gasket you pulled right after uboldting the top and replaced with some kind of caulking what is that one called? I'm a new rider and just as new to messing with trying to fix shit and I think that is the source of my leak . Before watching this video i actually thought that was the head gasket
I think it's call rocker gasket, you can also buy this caulking (silicon gasket) and use it together with the old rocker gasket.
Regards,
What is that black silicone stuff you put on the valve cover at the end?
its called gasket maker it hardens up to help seal along with the gasket he put on it
You didn't check the valves? Normally an inlet valve will be bent by contacting the piston crown. What revs were you pulling when it blew?
+Biker Bob Hi!, I don’t have the video but i remove all the valves and they were perfect, straight and with no friction.
The revs I think 10.000 more or less, that's too much for this engine.
You should have lapped the head and your valve seats so you won't have to possibly go back in the near future. I guess you're gold still since you got a double thick gasket but I don't think these gaskets conform too great to any level differences in the head. But hey, if it worked, it worked.
...what mean..soft,hard,soft,hard?
10000 is a lot on an older engine. I never take mine above 8000 and even then only very briefly. How many miles did the bike have when it needed the camchain? Mine had gone by 27000 miles
+Biker Bob
I know, normally i don’t ride over 7.000 revs but the red line is at 11… I think it should be at 9.
In my opinion this engine don’t really need a new camchain, the original should last forever or at least 100k km (that’s what I think, I don’t know..), but mine had a problem which is explained in the other video description.
Well.. the bike is for have fun and that’s what I do, now it works fine with the double gasket (which confirm the valves are fine), since I did the video I ride 2 thousand km, I think I loses a little bit of power because of the double gasket but I don’t mine, it’s really bit.
Maybe the problem was (or is) on the old valve spring? Or a little bent on the camshaft because of the high temp at high revs? I don’t know…
Did you lap the cylinder head when you replaced the gasket? or just change the gasket?
no, just change it, there was no mark on the cylinder, only a different color
Did you find out why the valves were kissing the pistons ?
no...
because stretched cam chain or some other reason you changed gasket, not good
What kind of gasket sealer / maker was that?
Loctite 5910
at 6:00 could you send me a photo copy of that by any chance? and or a link to find it?
you can find it here www.manualslib.com/manual/693564/Kawasaki-Kle500.html but be careful, there are some little differences between the gpz engine and the kle, or the er-5
hope you solve your problems!
Thank you so much sir!
Wow that sounds rattle and whistly on start up after re assembly.
Whistling comes from original rosty exhaust chamber. Cutted off, installed Sport exhaust. Problem solved, deeper sound 😍
Герметика нахерачил от души
it is hard because thats the compression stroke
there is no compression when you dont have the spark plug, but in any case with spark plug should be hard once every rotation because its a 2 cylinder engine...
@@CronoCueva 360 degree so will be hard at exact same spot but yeah never thoght to think if plugs where in or not