Catch up on the entire (Not So Tiny) House Build Series here : th-cam.com/play/PLlG1IdP-XNnmVsgBODfKbtPu-LFi6F7bB.html 📹 SUBSCRIBE : goo.gl/V5gcNJ Purchase (Not So Tiny) Tiny House Building Plans : bit.ly/notsotiny
Just a suggestion; I always have a form ready for a concrete countertop for excess concrete. You paid for it and you can make an outdoor table or coffee table. Cheers.
@@cheffsolo7739 I need to figure out how to post pictures but what it comes down I use whatever I can get my hands on and how much concrete is left. Old salat containers often have some interesting patterns in them. One time used a bunch of plastic storage containers the customer had to make blocks for a bench and plant stands for him. I try to get a smooth finish so I really work the concrete to get the air out. On bigger stuff like the storage boxes I used a reciprocating saw with no blade on the sides of the box to rattle out the air. I filled an almost 2’ high plastic barrel which had pretzels in it before. Sometimes I put empty plastic bottles in the concrete so they still stick out and cut them off once the concrete is dry for plants. I hope that makes sense.
I have to give you a lot of credit Johnny. Having all of this going on in the background, raising a child, and having another one while still maintaining a regular upload schedule is incredible. You deserve all the success you have achieved and more.
The expansion bolts work great in a big floor, but may put too much force on your columns, and could cause them to split. You don't have any hoop strength in your column (no rebar) and concrete is brittle in expansion, great in compression. Your best alternative would have been to use epoxy bolts instead of expansion bolts. This would put very little stress on the concrete piers.
Had the same thought on fresh columns. J bolt has no stress on the concrete. The two part epoxy sold for concrete at Home Depot or Lowe’s would also be great and no stress on anytbing. Good vid tho!
Really digging this project series! Side note: I'm surprised the structural engineer was OK with the tops of those J-hooks being flush with the top of the piers. Might want to check and see how you can protect those from rust... Usually a minimum amount of "cover" is required over rebar to face of concrete.
I guess their engineer didn't expect they would leave the J rebar uncovered. Maybe was not specified. That, and also the way they installed the J rebar into the ground where it will corrode and weaken the footings... Not good practice.
All rebar should be 3” from concrete edges. They will rust and cause the concrete to fail early. Followers should make sure to keep 3” clearance. Also, place anchors into fresh concrete is stronger. Lastly, if you drill into cured concrete, you can add epoxy to keep things tightly secured.
These are so great! I've been thinking of building my own house to live in, but I don't want it to be too big. Something smaller than normal, like what you're building here. And the thorough, deep-dive explanations spanning from permits to completion really help me wrap my head around how to actually go about construction.
Looking good. Interesting info on slump. It is measured by filling a standardized cone with concrete and then removing the cone and measuring how far it droops, 3” in your case. There’s also typically an inverse relationship between strength of concrete and slump because more water in the mix means less strength but lower viscosity/higher slump. The slump however, can also be increased without reducing the strength by adding admixtures such as superplasticizer.
glad I found this as I need to pour a base slab with a pillar and was wondering how to keep concrete from coming out the bottom of the quick tube. Was going to build a plywood top (covering the concrete pad with a hole for the tube to sit in) now I'm just going to mix it thicker and just pour it in. Thanks for saving me time money and energy. Great build by the way
Hello friends. let us be grateful to our friend who posted this video sharing knowledge. It doesn't cost anything to like and make a simple comment. It is the least we can do in gratitude for his work. thank you!
With our garage foundation, we used the tube and board cutoffs to create extra forms to accept the extra concrete rather than have a single large concrete boulder. We haven't done anything with them yet, except to mark locations where to not plow the snow. You know when you hit one that the plants behind that line are still alive.
This is an excellent complement to the Perkins Bros videos. You add "beginner" level of details who are very interesting and you have talent to explain clearly with a good speed. I am here from the video of the Perkins Bros you made with them and am glad to have found you. I will make sure to look at the other videos, I am binge watching this playlist for now. Great work and can't wait to see it finished!
Thank you so much for this series! This is exactly the kind of hard work you don't get to see in most romanticised (Not So ;) Tiny House videos! Fun AND informative to watch! Awesome job! 👍
how wise was to cut the J bolt and then drill into the newly cured post for the wedge bolt ? would not be it smarter to just use the J -Bolt or L-Bolt with the threaded rod end ?
Looks great, only thing I would say is that since you left the rebar long and had to cut some off at the top of the sonotubes is that that rebar will rust and you risk blowing out the concrete. When rust forms it has a lot of outward pressure and can blow out the concrete cylinder. At most it is 6 inches from the edge but some looked like they are lot less. Not sure what sort of fix you could do to seal the tops of the rebar and concrete to stop moisture from getting in though. Since its under the building it shouldn't get direct water so I'm not sure how likely it is to rust that much but just something that came to mind.
Don't ever drive steel rebar into the ground. Always keep it all encapsulated. Also, break up your "giant concrete boulder" with a shovel before it cures so handling it is much easier. Curious what State this was. Here in Minnesota, those shallow footings would heave pretty much every year. Thanks for a great video!
finally my question is answered on how people get all those sonotubes to the same height !! Another question - does it matter where you place that laser level?
Looks like you only have about a foot of sonotube below the surface, which is a recipe for heaving unless you backfill a couple feet more. All of the non-smooth concrete form must be below the frostline.
Nice work! I would strongly recommend not to use the expanding bolts on "young" concrete, because it takes about 3 months to develop it's specified strength. In this case nothing happened, because you drilled dead center, but if you use the bolts near the edge, they can crack the concrete when you try to fasten them.
7:23 Dunno what you should use that for, but next time you order concrete, build a brick mold and have them pump the remainder into your mold. Instead of one big unusable chunk, you'll have a few concrete blocks that you can use in the future.
with all due respect, folks, we are talking about 34 cents worth of concrete. Did you see the blowout when the sponge came through? Kiss you molds goodbye.
A ja myślałem że USA to kraj wolności :) u nas w Polsce potrzeba tylko zezwoleń :) > I thought the USA was a country of freedom :) in Poland, you only need a few permits :)
With freedom comes responsibilities. If you can’t be responsible, then someone need to have someone keep you in line. Sort of like little kids and unfortunately too many adults act like little kids.
@@kurtr.8907 or you are a freedom loving, patriotic American who employs illegal immigrants at below living wages because you don’t want to pay Americans a living wage.
Yes, it's the reason for the dobies in the first place for the horizontal rebar. I wonder how that would have passed inspection since the inspector generally wants to see all the rebar.
That pump operator is a G. So the slump does influence the viscosity of the concrete, but it also affects the strength as well. The lower the slump (1 being the lowest, up to 8-10 at the highest[by my standards]) the stronger the concrete. When pumping concrete, most pump owners prefer a higher slump, generally a 5-inch slump or higher, with many preferring the concrete as wet as us mixer operators will make it. This is because it flows through the grates and the pump much easier, and there will be less of a chance of clogging. A higher slump also makes the cleanup much easier. Many finishers will prefer a higher slump too, since it is easier to rake and move the concrete, meaning less work for them. Many prefer their job to be easier more than they care about how strong the customer's concrete is, so there is something to be said about the pump O/O advising you to go with a lower slump. Also, while he has a point about the higher slump running out into the forming below, the low slump could also do that by virtue of its weight pushing the rest of the concrete out of the way. Now, I will add the fact that Concrete is overengineered. a 3,000 mix will sustain 3,000 psi which the vast majority of builds will never reach, so having a bit higher slump isn't the end of the world. It's just the point of the matter that people are willing to reduce the structural integrity of the customers concrete when it is unnecessary because they want to take the easy way out.
6:12 Yah, that's the dirty little secret they don't tell you ahead of time. I got that "surprise" after pouring my shop footings as well. Didn't have the excavator anymore, so I've still got my concrete 💩 outside my shop. 😂
As im studing arquitecture here in mexico we build everything with concrete and I can tell you the pouring was just spot on including the resistance, nice work (by the ay love your channel)
Catch up on the entire (Not So Tiny) House Build Series here : th-cam.com/play/PLlG1IdP-XNnmVsgBODfKbtPu-LFi6F7bB.html
📹 SUBSCRIBE : goo.gl/V5gcNJ
Purchase (Not So Tiny) Tiny House Building Plans : bit.ly/notsotiny
Good times! Missing those warm fall days!
It was 22° on the mtn today!
thanks again Erik and Jaime for telling us about Crafted Workshop channel!
This is the collaboration we all needed. Love both these channels!
Just a suggestion; I always have a form ready for a concrete countertop for excess concrete. You paid for it and you can make an outdoor table or coffee table.
Cheers.
Smart idea
Cool, I normally have some containers etc. to make yard art and such with left over concrete.
Prove it
Can you post a picture ? I think that is a great idea .
@@cheffsolo7739 I need to figure out how to post pictures but what it comes down I use whatever I can get my hands on and how much concrete is left.
Old salat containers often have some interesting patterns in them. One time used a bunch of plastic storage containers the customer had to make blocks for a bench and plant stands for him.
I try to get a smooth finish so I really work the concrete to get the air out.
On bigger stuff like the storage boxes I used a reciprocating saw with no blade on the sides of the box to rattle out the air.
I filled an almost 2’ high plastic barrel which had pretzels in it before. Sometimes I put empty plastic bottles in the concrete so they still stick out and cut them off once the concrete is dry for plants.
I hope that makes sense.
Now I know why Erik & Jamie loves the cordless so much. Be kind to one another. Stay safe. Love to all
I have to give you a lot of credit Johnny. Having all of this going on in the background, raising a child, and having another one while still maintaining a regular upload schedule is incredible. You deserve all the success you have achieved and more.
Thanks man! Definitely a lot of hard work hah
Always good having any of the brothers or Arlow or John-o or Jason or Mr Beard to help out! Clean layout!
The expansion bolts work great in a big floor, but may put too much force on your columns, and could cause them to split. You don't have any hoop strength in your column (no rebar) and concrete is brittle in expansion, great in compression. Your best alternative would have been to use epoxy bolts instead of expansion bolts. This would put very little stress on the concrete piers.
This was the one point that was really bothering me as well...
why not just use J bolts out the top while pouring. .
I’m using “J-bolt” concrete anchors 100%!
Or a tapcon
Had the same thought on fresh columns. J bolt has no stress on the concrete. The two part epoxy sold for concrete at Home Depot or Lowe’s would also be great and no stress on anytbing.
Good vid tho!
I love it because you don't hide the little mistake as your going on through. Awesome work
Finally, a thorough in-depth instructional video. Well done, guys.
Really digging this project series!
Side note: I'm surprised the structural engineer was OK with the tops of those J-hooks being flush with the top of the piers. Might want to check and see how you can protect those from rust... Usually a minimum amount of "cover" is required over rebar to face of concrete.
I guess their engineer didn't expect they would leave the J rebar uncovered. Maybe was not specified. That, and also the way they installed the J rebar into the ground where it will corrode and weaken the footings... Not good practice.
yes this is grade-A hack work, 3" mininum on all edges for metal inside concrete.
All rebar should be 3” from concrete edges. They will rust and cause the concrete to fail early. Followers should make sure to keep 3” clearance. Also, place anchors into fresh concrete is stronger. Lastly, if you drill into cured concrete, you can add epoxy to keep things tightly secured.
Not defending his work, but J bolts are galvanized and necessarily have to be half exposed. They are not rebar. They are a fastener.
@ that’s true. My brain was thinking it was rebar but you’re right.
Can't wait for part 4
When doing your line level for the molds.
Do you measure the outside of the concreate tubes or line the middle of the tubes ??
Booking the concrete truck same day as the inspection. Brave
These are so great! I've been thinking of building my own house to live in, but I don't want it to be too big. Something smaller than normal, like what you're building here. And the thorough, deep-dive explanations spanning from permits to completion really help me wrap my head around how to actually go about construction.
I'm eagerly waiting to see the final product. Best of luck for the project.
always love seeing a tradesman amazement at new tools :)
I'm looking at building a small house on my property, so this video series is perfect timing. Thanks for showing your build and progress.
Nice my city is code free, no inspections. Build as you please lol.
Looking good. Interesting info on slump. It is measured by filling a standardized cone with concrete and then removing the cone and measuring how far it droops, 3” in your case. There’s also typically an inverse relationship between strength of concrete and slump because more water in the mix means less strength but lower viscosity/higher slump. The slump however, can also be increased without reducing the strength by adding admixtures such as superplasticizer.
I never see anyone do fooding with concrete surround fooding , this house will last generation-to generation ,great job 👍
Thanks! Definitely not going anywhere any time soon!
glad I found this as I need to pour a base slab with a pillar and was wondering how to keep concrete from coming out the bottom of the quick tube. Was going to build a plywood top (covering the concrete pad with a hole for the tube to sit in) now I'm just going to mix it thicker and just pour it in. Thanks for saving me time money and energy. Great build by the way
Glad I could help!
Hello friends. let us be grateful to our friend who posted this video sharing knowledge. It doesn't cost anything to like and make a simple comment. It is the least we can do in gratitude for his work. thank you!
Those Perkins boys are a pretty good couple of fella's. It's the Builder Buddies you need for comic relief while you build!
They’ll be in the next video 😊
With our garage foundation, we used the tube and board cutoffs to create extra forms to accept the extra concrete rather than have a single large concrete boulder. We haven't done anything with them yet, except to mark locations where to not plow the snow. You know when you hit one that the plants behind that line are still alive.
your videos are well shot and the narration is well explained and is nice and clear. tks
vacuuming the concrete drill dust when outside seems overkill
Thanks! The vacuum was mainly to make sure the dust wasn't compacted in the hole, not necessarily for air quality. Although it certainly didn't hurt!
This is an excellent complement to the Perkins Bros videos. You add "beginner" level of details who are very interesting and you have talent to explain clearly with a good speed. I am here from the video of the Perkins Bros you made with them and am glad to have found you. I will make sure to look at the other videos, I am binge watching this playlist for now. Great work and can't wait to see it finished!
That’s awesome, thanks so much Steve!
Good job
Like from Siberia Russia
Thank you so much for this series! This is exactly the kind of hard work you don't get to see in most romanticised (Not So ;) Tiny House videos! Fun AND informative to watch! Awesome job! 👍
Suggestion for any Future builds that have large nut bolts , get yourself a Gator Grip Socket to add to your socket set ( they work great )
Excellent video and very clear. Congratulations!!!!!
This mini series is so good can’t wait to see more
Really satisfying.. the way you place the casing post.. loveit.,
I’m about to lay out my foundation but I’m using square foot footings, makes life so much easier.
Prayers from Jamie from Perkins Brothers with surgery today hope everything is good 🙏
how wise was to cut the J bolt and then drill into the newly cured post for the wedge bolt ? would not be it smarter to just use the J -Bolt or L-Bolt with the threaded rod end ?
This part of the process always seemed scary to me but the video made it look so easy.
Looks great, only thing I would say is that since you left the rebar long and had to cut some off at the top of the sonotubes is that that rebar will rust and you risk blowing out the concrete. When rust forms it has a lot of outward pressure and can blow out the concrete cylinder. At most it is 6 inches from the edge but some looked like they are lot less. Not sure what sort of fix you could do to seal the tops of the rebar and concrete to stop moisture from getting in though. Since its under the building it shouldn't get direct water so I'm not sure how likely it is to rust that much but just something that came to mind.
Wal-Mart Hart tools are pretty impressive
An Excellent Explanation ... Well Done!!!!
Don't ever drive steel rebar into the ground. Always keep it all encapsulated.
Also, break up your "giant concrete boulder" with a shovel before it cures so handling it is much easier.
Curious what State this was. Here in Minnesota, those shallow footings would heave pretty much every year.
Thanks for a great video!
Masks outside, that's cute ❤
Allergic to fresh air.
Truck still looking good!
Wait till next week’s video 😂
Good video. Fab-form fastform footing and column plastic would probably change your life though if you ever end up doing this again.
Not a construction person but I think those brackets are for decks or patios. Pretty sure the required one is called ccqm. Might want to Google that
Keep up it man! This series is insane!
Beautiful process, thank you for the filming and uploading your work, i am learning a lot. Greetings from Suriname, South America.
Thank you very much!
You never disappoint Johnny! Since the beginning always making amazing videos... Keep up the good work👏🏻
Great vid...can I ask why you chose pillars over a concrete slab? Im guessing land slope, which we cant really appreciate on camera. Cheers
My guess is price as well as that would be much more concrete to buy
Nice looking lumber
Great series so far! I'm hoping to build a cabin on my acreage in Pisgah Forest this summer, so I'll be watching your build closely.
That’s great! Sounds like a cool project
such an exciting project! eager to see how your channel grows in the new year .... my cordless Dewalt chainsaw is always on our jobs... love that tool
Love this series!
finally my question is answered on how people get all those sonotubes to the same height !! Another question - does it matter where you place that laser level?
Looks like you only have about a foot of sonotube below the surface, which is a recipe for heaving unless you backfill a couple feet more. All of the non-smooth concrete form must be below the frostline.
If the J bar is stuck in the ground in the footings, won't it corrode with humidity from the soil and destroy the whole rebar in the future?
У вас не промерзает грунт?
Nice work! I would strongly recommend not to use the expanding bolts on "young" concrete, because it takes about 3 months to develop it's specified strength. In this case nothing happened, because you drilled dead center, but if you use the bolts near the edge, they can crack the concrete when you try to fasten them.
7:23 Dunno what you should use that for, but next time you order concrete, build a brick mold and have them pump the remainder into your mold. Instead of one big unusable chunk, you'll have a few concrete blocks that you can use in the future.
with all due respect, folks, we are talking about 34 cents worth of concrete. Did you see the blowout when the sponge came through? Kiss you molds goodbye.
I love this series even more after Johnny have served my kinky fantasy of Total Recall Arnold's while drilling the concrete. HOT! hahaha
12:30 Super cool trick!!!
Great work thanks for sharing
Be well be safe
"Eric's first time using a cordless framing nailer" - finally!
USA: freedom!
Also USA: you want to build something? You need 100 inspections and HOA permissions.
A ja myślałem że USA to kraj wolności :) u nas w Polsce potrzeba tylko zezwoleń :) > I thought the USA was a country of freedom :) in Poland, you only need a few
permits :)
Nothing about American is free anymore unless you are an illegal immigrant.
@@kurtr.8907 LOL sad but true
With freedom comes responsibilities. If you can’t be responsible, then someone need to have someone keep you in line. Sort of like little kids and unfortunately too many adults act like little kids.
@@kurtr.8907 or you are a freedom loving, patriotic American who employs illegal immigrants at below living wages because you don’t want to pay Americans a living wage.
Won't the metal of the J bar being buried in dirt, protruding from the concrete end up with the J bar rusting?
Yes, it's the reason for the dobies in the first place for the horizontal rebar. I wonder how that would have passed inspection since the inspector generally wants to see all the rebar.
Moiusture in the groud will make your rebar rust. this will with time crack the concrete. Since you pushed that J-bar thingy straight down.
You are genius guys
Thank you for the video. Do you know how deep the Internet cables burry under the ground in your state?
Wow, you got Action Bronson to do your concrete pumping.
Nice project! Curios how you made concrete piers all leveled?
Very nice
For perspective on climate difference, in central Alberta, Canada water lines need to be 2.5 -2.8m or 8.5 to 9 feet below finished grade.
Yup, pretty crazy the difference!
Great Craft
for the slump test, you should have talk to the structural engineer.
he should have specified it when doing the drawing for the footings.
Hi. Great video! Where did you get your laser? What was the cost? Thanks!
at 5:00 It says "thinner less viscose concrete" but thinner actually means higher viscosity.
That pump operator is a G. So the slump does influence the viscosity of the concrete, but it also affects the strength as well. The lower the slump (1 being the lowest, up to 8-10 at the highest[by my standards]) the stronger the concrete. When pumping concrete, most pump owners prefer a higher slump, generally a 5-inch slump or higher, with many preferring the concrete as wet as us mixer operators will make it. This is because it flows through the grates and the pump much easier, and there will be less of a chance of clogging. A higher slump also makes the cleanup much easier. Many finishers will prefer a higher slump too, since it is easier to rake and move the concrete, meaning less work for them. Many prefer their job to be easier more than they care about how strong the customer's concrete is, so there is something to be said about the pump O/O advising you to go with a lower slump. Also, while he has a point about the higher slump running out into the forming below, the low slump could also do that by virtue of its weight pushing the rest of the concrete out of the way.
Now, I will add the fact that Concrete is overengineered. a 3,000 mix will sustain 3,000 psi which the vast majority of builds will never reach, so having a bit higher slump isn't the end of the world. It's just the point of the matter that people are willing to reduce the structural integrity of the customers concrete when it is unnecessary because they want to take the easy way out.
Good job 👍🏻
We Russia делаем такой фундамент для бани, только не менее чем на 2 meters
If three 2X12 measure 4-1/2 thick how do you use a 6" anchor bracket?
Whats the purpose of the J bar sticking out of the piers to the be cut level?
Nice build so far! Whats the difference between a girder and a beam?
I think girder is the correct technical term here but I’ve heard them called beams a lot since this foundation style is called pier and beam.
www.differencebetween.net/object/difference-between-beam-and-girder/
6:12 Yah, that's the dirty little secret they don't tell you ahead of time. I got that "surprise" after pouring my shop footings as well. Didn't have the excavator anymore, so I've still got my concrete 💩 outside my shop. 😂
No kidding! Would have been nice to know ahead of time.
Good stuff ! ! !
How far apart did you say those sonatubes were? Thanks
I’m wondering why you didn’t remove the bar tops and insert an anchor bolt or bracket while the concrete was still wet 🤔
Thanks for building with us. Oh wait, wrong channel.
How far away were the sonotubes from each other?
Should have used bigfoot forms for the concrete. Might have saved you money in the long run.
Totally outside my experience. Thank you.
No problem!
13:18 always gotta love trying to figure out how to put a clip in..
Hah first time loading this nail gun 😊🤯
@@craftedworkshop I say that a few times a day 😂
Those hart brands will be big some day!
Which model line laser did you use for cutting the sonotubes/quiktubes?
As im studing arquitecture here in mexico we build everything with concrete and I can tell you the pouring was just spot on including the resistance, nice work (by the ay love your channel)
Hi
First of all, great video.
You wear a tool belt in your video. What type/brand is it?
Keep it up!!
sweet content brah
could you of added the extra left over concrete to the footers around the tubes instead of just dumping it into a pile ?
I seen Eric crowning those 2x12's
Yup, forgot to mention that!
Tree boards together .
Thank you very much.
Sep. 27th 2022 Tue. 14:19
from Yokohama City Japan
What did it cost to get it to the dried in stage?
Good job