I picked up on the rust comment in reference to a previously posted comment. Maybe it is an age thing or maybe it is because one of us has done this sort of thing more times than can be remembered but as a business prospective, you get paid to do tasks once if this was a customer build, all the needless redundant work becomes free. I know it is your car and the issue for you is you have a deadline. Not sure I heard everything correctly but let me start then if I misunderstood, please correct me. At the end of the video you said several things are going to change...engine...rear ended...chassis. If you brought this car to me as is....I would set the chassis on a table or stands that have been set level. I would clamp the chassis in place so everything stays level and in place. I would mount all the suspension parts and check for square. Install new motor and transmission. Measure for the drive shaft and have that made and balanced. Install shaft into car. Now you have what I call a roller but do not remove from chassis stands. Your frame should now be sitting level. Complete repairs of all body rust everywhere on the body. Now raise the repaired and primered body onto the frame. Verify body mount locations and add more tabs if you see adjusting is needed. All mounting points should be reinforced and gussets welded in. Set the body onto the frame and verify panel alignment. If doors close and latch, bolt in place. Never pry parts to make another item fit as you would be putting stress into the project and it will effect handling and safety. At this point, you go through and verify all rust is removed or transformer is applied. Determine seat height for comfort. Now is the time to decide how much you will chop the top. As I noted before, keep in mind how tall Travis is and his need for head room. Now determine how much you are going to cut and where the cuts need to be made. Cut out and save long pieces that way you can use for fillers at transition points. As soon as you get top cut and welded, get your glass ordered as sometimes this becomes an issue that holds up all progress. Time now to wire your ride. I suggest the commercially available kits as you have a deadline. Have patterns made for interior panels and either order panels or have your local shop make panels and seats. Now send car to your Dads body shop for body prep and paint and blocking. While you don’t want a bond bucket, coating the entire car then sanding imperfections is the way all high end builds are prepared. You want black so have the shop do all the painting for you. Install sound deadened, padding and carpet. Install all interior panels including head liner, now seats. Detail clean the car and it is ready. That is the process I use at my shop. I am starting work on my 1994 triple black Corvette next month and the same schedule will be used on it. While this is never the only way to do a build, it is the way you do things once and you do them right. There are very few hours lost bouncing around the build. We all know other things come up like neighbors wanting to talk or asking for a hand to help them. It is all good until you have either a budget or a time line to beat. This has been drawn out but I see issues that could prevent you from getting done on time. You might want to scale back your expectations and focus on swapping frames, transplant current engine if you are still waiting to fund the purchase of the rebuilt flat head. You can make what you have go up and down the street so that helps. Take your time. Do it once and do it right. Don’t stress over the deadline as you have a show to put on. Have fun. Most of all, both of you stay safe. See you next video.
Don't let it get you down! It's the journey and not the arrival! Getting that old sheet metal to line up is a lot of work, and they weren't that straight and true 100 years ago! I had a '31 Town and Country Sedan (four door with the suicide back doors) and getting that to line up was a pain in the a$$! Go Kelly Builds, keep moving forward!
Don’t get down about this build. Remember you are working with a car that is almost 100 years old. I has been through a lot of crap and it is to be expected to not have good fitment at this time. But you have the ability to fix it and you have someone that is willing to help and has the skills to do it. You will do a great job and learn a lot along the way.
We all are just humans. Some of us doesn't have the luxury of money to buy tools or machines to make it quicker. Besides, the point is, that they both are sharing the loves and compassion for restoring history and enjoying doing it.😊
If it's going onto another chassis, I would definitely try it on that frame before tearing the body all apart. Also, make sure all of your body blocks are the same and correct. Measure the door openings to see of the front/back is parallel. Look at the door gap from the inside to see where you have "uneven" gaps and try to determine why they are like that. Are they supposed to be "tapered" or not. Bending the hinges can help with tapers a lot but remove them first and bend them in a vise instead of trying to bend the 1/4" hinge while sheetmetal is holding it. Compare the two doors. Like Travis said "they're old cars" so you need to be an "investigator" to diagnose where/what the problem is before you can begin to fix anything. Modifying the body is the wrong correction if the issue turns out to be a bent frame. Maybe this frame was under a truck at sometime in it's 90 year life so it's "sagged" in the middle. Don't be "impatient". Study and analyze to determine what it is you need to fix.
Put a tape measure on the door openings measure in an x pattern on both sides. And measure the doors themselves and see how out of square it is. It will help figuring out where the body needs to be moved. Dont forget to leave a gap all the way around the door so it will open and shut correctly.
Why not set the porta-power on the rocker panel and raise the door frame, and don't let Travis tell you he doesn't know how to fix that bump from the nail, ive seen his work before, 🙄 apparently the body was welded together crooked so always have the doors on with a perfect hinge gap before you weld the rocker panels in place 😉
Put a strap or chain around the chassis and under the jack to prevent lifting the car whilst applying pressure on the bodywork Just found your channel 😄 looks good 👍
Try shimming the very back corner, un-bolt the top of the A-piller when you move the back up.. I had the same problem with the 29 I was building and I had to shim the rear, to get the door open correct. Do give up its not that bad..
Looks like an adult bounce house. Whatever it takes to get the job done. I'm glad you both are sharing your knowledge and making a video tutorial. Keep up the good work. It's awesome to make memories to always look back on.
@KellyBuilds glad you think so. 1 for the front end, 1 for the rear end, and the other 2 for right and left sides. You and your partner are doing great. I hope you both success.
So if Travis didn't get in the way you would've had it done so much quicker!!! I did say!!! He he he!!! Kelly, hey you need to make up a section of channel that you and Travis can slide around under cars that a jack can work off and then also chain the car down to as to push, twist sections. Just two sections of 5" channel connected together as to widen it out as so a jack, port a power can press from.,
I am with you, I am not into the chop the top down to tank turrets. I am not even that tall, but I want to sit in the seat with my feet below my hips and have headroom for my hat. Or hair if I had that. I am not adverse to rust, but the rat rod scene just isn't my scene. I am not a car waxing person, just somewhere in between like your builds. His flathead is epic though.
I have a 29 coupe had the same problem. I took off the hinges from the body and obligated the holes to move the hinge were it needed to be now body lines are perfect. Hopefully this helps.
@@michealfigueroa6325 All newer cars have oblonged holes on the door hinges so you can adjust the door . . i guess all the engineers that designed all newer cars are all hacks . lol , have a great day sir !!
Keep frame squaring to frame squaring and body squaring to body squaring. 😊 Longitude and Latitude and cross points/vertical \diagonal? I am Asian and I apologize if my English is not up to par. 😊
Dammit damnit u got u your ups then u dot your downs but awesome job Kelly those people who think that they can do stuff on there own good for u it's not a crime to have help my wife helps me out on my project because she has small hands and more patients then me hahahahah ❤ love the channel the neg riff raff and go seriously go step.on a Lego keep up the good.work love everything u guys do what's your husband channel called ?
I picked up on the rust comment in reference to a previously posted comment. Maybe it is an age thing or maybe it is because one of us has done this sort of thing more times than can be remembered but as a business prospective, you get paid to do tasks once if this was a customer build, all the needless redundant work becomes free. I know it is your car and the issue for you is you have a deadline. Not sure I heard everything correctly but let me start then if I misunderstood, please correct me. At the end of the video you said several things are going to change...engine...rear ended...chassis. If you brought this car to me as is....I would set the chassis on a table or stands that have been set level. I would clamp the chassis in place so everything stays level and in place. I would mount all the suspension parts and check for square. Install new motor and transmission. Measure for the drive shaft and have that made and balanced. Install shaft into car. Now you have what I call a roller but do not remove from chassis stands. Your frame should now be sitting level. Complete repairs of all body rust everywhere on the body. Now raise the repaired and primered body onto the frame. Verify body mount locations and add more tabs if you see adjusting is needed. All mounting points should be reinforced and gussets welded in. Set the body onto the frame and verify panel alignment. If doors close and latch, bolt in place. Never pry parts to make another item fit as you would be putting stress into the project and it will effect handling and safety. At this point, you go through and verify all rust is removed or transformer is applied. Determine seat height for comfort. Now is the time to decide how much you will chop the top. As I noted before, keep in mind how tall Travis is and his need for head room. Now determine how much you are going to cut and where the cuts need to be made. Cut out and save long pieces that way you can use for fillers at transition points. As soon as you get top cut and welded, get your glass ordered as sometimes this becomes an issue that holds up all progress. Time now to wire your ride. I suggest the commercially available kits as you have a deadline. Have patterns made for interior panels and either order panels or have your local shop make panels and seats. Now send car to your Dads body shop for body prep and paint and blocking. While you don’t want a bond bucket, coating the entire car then sanding imperfections is the way all high end builds are prepared. You want black so have the shop do all the painting for you. Install sound deadened, padding and carpet. Install all interior panels including head liner, now seats. Detail clean the car and it is ready. That is the process I use at my shop. I am starting work on my 1994 triple black Corvette next month and the same schedule will be used on it. While this is never the only way to do a build, it is the way you do things once and you do them right. There are very few hours lost bouncing around the build. We all know other things come up like neighbors wanting to talk or asking for a hand to help them. It is all good until you have either a budget or a time line to beat. This has been drawn out but I see issues that could prevent you from getting done on time. You might want to scale back your expectations and focus on swapping frames, transplant current engine if you are still waiting to fund the purchase of the rebuilt flat head. You can make what you have go up and down the street so that helps. Take your time. Do it once and do it right. Don’t stress over the deadline as you have a show to put on. Have fun. Most of all, both of you stay safe. See you next video.
Don't let it get you down! It's the journey and not the arrival! Getting that old sheet metal to line up is a lot of work, and they weren't that straight and true 100 years ago! I had a '31 Town and Country Sedan (four door with the suicide back doors) and getting that to line up was a pain in the a$$! Go Kelly Builds, keep moving forward!
Haha it’s always something with these things! Thank you!!
Great video Kelly 👍 hope your family has a great 4th of July!
Kelly builds rocks. England enjoys your down to earth content. 🇬🇧❤
🙌🏻🫶🏻
Don’t get down about this build. Remember you are working with a car that is almost 100 years old. I has been through a lot of crap and it is to be expected to not have good fitment at this time. But you have the ability to fix it and you have someone that is willing to help and has the skills to do it. You will do a great job and learn a lot along the way.
Thank you so much!
We all are just humans. Some of us doesn't have the luxury of money to buy tools or machines to make it quicker.
Besides, the point is, that they both are sharing the loves and compassion for restoring history and enjoying doing it.😊
Hahaha! Love the jumping!
😂
If it's going onto another chassis, I would definitely try it on that frame before tearing the body all apart. Also, make sure all of your body blocks are the same and correct. Measure the door openings to see of the front/back is parallel. Look at the door gap from the inside to see where you have "uneven" gaps and try to determine why they are like that. Are they supposed to be "tapered" or not. Bending the hinges can help with tapers a lot but remove them first and bend them in a vise instead of trying to bend the 1/4" hinge while sheetmetal is holding it. Compare the two doors. Like Travis said "they're old cars" so you need to be an "investigator" to diagnose where/what the problem is before you can begin to fix anything. Modifying the body is the wrong correction if the issue turns out to be a bent frame. Maybe this frame was under a truck at sometime in it's 90 year life so it's "sagged" in the middle. Don't be "impatient". Study and analyze to determine what it is you need to fix.
another awesome episode of Travis builds, 🤣 only cause you said it. Hehehehe
😂😂😂
Some people are just jealous about the relationship you and Travis have. Consider them compliments.
True!!
Put a tape measure on the door openings measure in an x pattern on both sides. And measure the doors themselves and see how out of square it is. It will help figuring out where the body needs to be moved. Dont forget to leave a gap all the way around the door so it will open and shut correctly.
When you weld parts together, take into account that it shrinks or collapse from the measurement.
Why not set the porta-power on the rocker panel and raise the door frame, and don't let Travis tell you he doesn't know how to fix that bump from the nail, ive seen his work before, 🙄 apparently the body was welded together crooked so always have the doors on with a perfect hinge gap before you weld the rocker panels in place 😉
Put a strap or chain around the chassis and under the jack to prevent lifting the car whilst applying pressure on the bodywork
Just found your channel 😄 looks good 👍
Omg such a good idea!!!! That’s exactly what we’re gonna try haha
Like watching the Model A Trampoline Olympics when they were both jumping up and down to try and align the driver door lol.
😂😂
Awesome Video’s Y’all 👍. And DON’T Be Poking Momma Bear Lol 😂
Haha watch out!! 😂
May I ask:
Are you going for original or custom?😊
You could do it Kelly and it will work out great
Thank you!
Try shimming the very back corner, un-bolt the top of the A-piller when you move the back up..
I had the same problem with the 29 I was building and I had to shim the rear, to get the door open correct.
Do give up its not that bad..
Unfortunately we cut the rear body mounts out when we z’ed the frame
Looks like an adult bounce house. Whatever it takes to get the job done. I'm glad you both are sharing your knowledge and making a video tutorial. Keep up the good work. It's awesome to make memories to always look back on.
I’m so glad you like the channel!
Square jigging all jambs would make the fabrication and fitting process a whole lot easier and efficient on time and energy.
Especially if your square jigs are adjustable.
Having two of each would be great. 2 off vertical and horizontal square jigs.😊
That’s an idea!
@KellyBuilds glad you think so.
1 for the front end, 1 for the rear end, and the other 2 for right and left sides. You and your partner are doing great. I hope you both success.
@KellyBuilds I am from Vancouver British Columbia Canada and was wondering how is the weather where you people at?
So if Travis didn't get in the way you would've had it done so much quicker!!!
I did say!!!
He he he!!!
Kelly, hey you need to make up a section of channel that you and Travis can slide around under cars that a jack can work off and then also chain the car down to as to push, twist sections.
Just two sections of 5" channel connected together as to widen it out as so a jack, port a power can press from.,
Haha no way!
I am with you, I am not into the chop the top down to tank turrets. I am not even that tall, but I want to sit in the seat with my feet below my hips and have headroom for my hat. Or hair if I had that. I am not adverse to rust, but the rat rod scene just isn't my scene. I am not a car waxing person, just somewhere in between like your builds. His flathead is epic though.
It’s definitely cool for his style! Thanks for watching!
Umm you guys check the doors if maybe were pulled down or tweaked so the latch is lower than the b-pillar? Just a thought😊
I have a 29 coupe had the same problem. I took off the hinges from the body and obligated the holes to move the hinge were it needed to be now body lines are perfect. Hopefully this helps.
"obligated" the holes Damn cliver Oblonging holes is equally stupid Measure twice and drill once or just be "A HACK"
@@michealfigueroa6325 All newer cars have oblonged holes on the door hinges so you can adjust the door . . i guess all the engineers that designed all newer cars are all hacks . lol , have a great day sir !!
wouldn't you need to shim the middle to pull the door apart ?
Thats all part of building a Hot Rod !
Absolutely!
What is Rust? We don't have rust here😆 in Phoenix Az
Gosh I wish we didn’t know about rust 😂
Adjust the seat frame to see if door fits in opening
Just deal with it. It doesn't have to be perfect.
If someone drove by when you were putting those washers in I’m sure they could only imagine what you were doing! Ha ha
😂😂
I won't say it but...........I AM thinking it!!😁😁
Cool
@@KellyBuilds can't wait to see the chop!
Remember that those vehicles were body over frame.
Keep frame squaring to frame squaring and body squaring to body squaring. 😊
Longitude and Latitude and cross points/vertical \diagonal?
I am Asian and I apologize if my English is not up to par. 😊
It was going up.
Sure the chassis isn’t the issue?
Chassis is fine!
Dammit damnit u got u your ups then u dot your downs but awesome job Kelly those people who think that they can do stuff on there own good for u it's not a crime to have help my wife helps me out on my project because she has small hands and more patients then me hahahahah ❤ love the channel the neg riff raff and go seriously go step.on a Lego keep up the good.work love everything u guys do what's your husband channel called ?
Haha you got that right!!! We have a blast together. His channel is RAC garage!!
Hi beautiful lady you and your man are absolutely amazing ❤❤❤❤
Thank you so much!!
@@KellyBuilds you are welcome dear ❤️
You jumped on it?😂
Another Night Shift. Shim-shim- aree ...
Not my favorite but has to be done!
Just thinking, maybe there is something funny going on with the frame, not the body?
A porter power a hydraulic ram
Yes!
like 74 !
Woo woo!