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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ส.ค. 2024
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We had a request to weld up some 1.6mm (16 gauge) Stainless Steel using the TIG process and no pulse. The trick to TIG welding thin Stainless is to have a fast travel speed. The slower you go, the more oxides you are going to get, so hammer down and go!
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![fellow fellow - PROUD feat. INK WARUNTORN [STRING QUARTET]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/BQrVkMPTdHE/mqdefault.jpg)
love that you showed you actually slipped rather than doing another take good weld tho
The information and knowledge in these videos is only half the reason I watch them, the other is the banter between Bob and the Camera Guy.
erikdude666, That damn camera guy right?
My favorite weld instructor. Always great information.
Thanks Bob, These are the kind of video's we need. Nice work.
I am really very grateful to you Mr.Bob
I'm going to be welding up a stainless plasma table water tank tomorrow same material thickness, thanks for the refresher!
Maybe you can do a video on what size tungsten and cup to use per material size and or weld joint? Any benefits to one over the other? Thanks as always, Bob.
Brandon D Good point.
Great suggestion!!!
Thank you for the demonstration it was very helpful !
I've got a pretty cheap harbor freight 165 amp Tig. I mainly got it to do thin stuff like 12g steel horizontal welds. Thanks for the info
Miss you Bob, loved his lingo
I started with mig but now trying to learn oxy/ acetylene welding I would love to see more videos on it
Appears to be using 80A to 90A, Jesus! What a amp for a sheet metal like 1/8! Today I lost some hours trying to learn TIG weld in these 1/8 stainless with no more than 55A. I will definitely try again with more power. I really suspected that I was burning my steel but I stick with max 55A due to a 'table' that I find on internet. No table substitutes an experienced TIG welder. Let´s try again tomorrow...
Can you do that with 1/8" tungsten ?
He welds so calm that it looks easy
Thanks for the video as always. Sometime you should do a video on .120wall tubing (as commonly used in roll cages and off road parts like axel links/bumpers/etc). I have some projects I want to tig weld up for my truck soon and I am a bit confused. It seems it's recommended to do a full penetration weld on butt joints. Yet on notched tubes I see guys welding in other videos they keep the gap in the joint to a absolute minimum. I don't see how they are getting full penetration in tig in such cases without a gap. I could run way over amperage and I can't get full pen with a 0 gap. They aren't beveling the tube ends either. Any thoughts/advice/video would be great.
Good point. This needs discussion for sure.
Yes please
I have a thickness gauge like that. It's sweet!
Can you also do tig on 16 gauge outside corner joint? I am trying to make a small purge box for small parts that need major argon backing I’ve got an idea just haven’t done much will stainless outside corner joints at such thin gauges
The rules of high and lows of amperage are still making sense to me which, your original setting of 130 complied with my thoughts.
why not call your "weight" what it actually is... a heat sink for that thin ss.
Andrew Cumiford Because it isn't. Most everytime I've used it, I've explained it isn't a heat sink.
If one did want to use a heat sink block, steel is far from the ideal metal.
Nice! I just got my tig machine and have a lot of practice ahead of me!
Can you run one 18mm carbon to SS Tig? Fillet weld. Struggling a bit with it.
When you are tig welding could you tell what type of tungsten you are using? If you only said what color that who be very helpful. Thanks a lot and I look forward to the next video.
E3 on this one.
12ozbuds Color band isn't always consistent with alloy these days though.
I use 2% on most everything so red for thoriated and grey for ceriated. Red seems to keep the nicest point for fine work and it takes the heat best for ac aluminum. My preference only.
Boy, that narrows it down. What I meant when ever he does a tig video he says not only the size of the tungsten but also the type. For example thoriated, ceriated, or zirconiated.
Very good pres. Thanks
I would love to see your opinion on cheap "harbour freight" welders. I am sure your review will be honest cause some people complained on mr.Tig's review. Thanks for your awsome videos!
You are awesome! Thank you for sharing your knowledge
Always so useful! Thank you
I wonder why, if a breeze wafts the gas away, the same thing doesn’t happen with these high velocity, low cfm extractors. They’re pretty close.
Looking at making a dirt bike air box this will be perfect I’m also gonna do the old diy tig set up with a stick welder should be fun
Took a Stainless TIG test yesterday, bombed it (only second time I've welded Stainless). I was having two issues;
#1 vision- seeing what was going on clearly (I guess a 1.0 or a 1.25 cheater lens would help with that)
#2 getting the puddle to form and then move along. I had a similar set up to the one in the video. I set the machine to about 95 amps and gave pedal until I had a puddle. I tried to move out and things just wouldn't move like I would want. It seemed I either had too much heat or not enough and blew out the joint several times. I don't seem to have this kind if issue with carbon. The only two times I have ever welded stainless have been on tests (probably 90% of my problem). If I get another shot is there anything specific I should "look for" when attempting to initiate a puddle and then move out down a fillet or lap joint?
Thanks for the great videos.
Hey man I'm having this exact problem now on a stainless job trial. Kinda hard so far.
Beautiful
Bob, what would you change here for 20 Gauge Stainless Steel? Amperage only or cup size as well? Fillet size? My set up is same but 3/32 fillet on 20 gauge and struggling to control the puddle. Thanks for this video, working with it in the shop.
Great job I would have dipped 3 or 15 times lol
At school I TIG 1/16" stainless T joints well, with a nice rainbow color. But, at my last job test no matter how low I set their old Miller machine I was burning through the stainless like a flame through paper. I didn't get the job obviously, and I left embarrassed and tried not to show it. To be fair, they were using contaminated tungsten rods. The chuck that tightens the rod in the torch was spiral twisted and worn out and no extractors were present to clear the vapor. Something was off because they set the machine for me, and got annoyed when I looked over the settings, as If I shouldn't bother.
Come to think of it it was better they didn't hire me.
You dont want rainbow colors, thats overheating the metal. You want a nice straw color
The OOP'S make the videos encouraging.
Be encouraged. You can do this better than me. I can make the oops real easy.
I wanted to see the back an bottom of the plates.
Sea Level Sorry my bad.
A lot of the time, I run into a job that I cant get anything behind the joint to prevent sugaring and way to big to purge. Typically 16 gauge ducts and exhaust assemblies. It's hard not to not sugar the backside and make it look tight and burned in.
Sea Level Agree. Heat paste and or Solar B flux may help in those instances. .045 or even .035 filler might be the trick.
Bob Moffatt don't apologize for camera guys short comings. You are a great teacher keep up the good work.my only hope is that one day you'll get through to camera guy seems like he's got a habit of riding the rails :(
delinquentdesign just use pulse man😀
I like see the back side of that t joint fillet weld.
Thanks bro
What is the reason for it "not using it all" ?
I took what in thought would be an easy test for a job this mornin and failed it. I just had to do two horizontal fillet welds just like this and then weld two cupons together fusing just the base metal with the tungston. Im a rookie at TIG welding and i was used to just tiggin on thick stainless pipes, that thin stuff is a different beast. I can see what i was doin wrong. I was wonderin If i hold the torch with my right should i be pushin or pullin the puddle on this thin stuff? And i noticed hes just runnin the bead along really easy without moving the cup at all i was taught to "walk the cup" id appreciate any helpful advice on the subject. They said if i got in a little practice or something and wanted to retake it i could
Hola ...porque nadie muestra la parte de atrás de las chapas a ver si se quemaron o no ...que eso también es importante.
Back side welding out
Can you do vert up on 16 g t joint
Whoa! You can hear me?!?! I was just asking if you were resting the cup on the material :D
Yes he was, at 2.25 you can see a scratch perpendicular to the weld from the ceramic
was this a number 6 with gas lens or just a number 6 ? im a newbie at welding
Great content Thanks Bob
Wanna see the back side of the weld
I would also like to see if it sugared.
NifalioPhobia BVTV, wouldn't it have some gas coverage on the back side because of the block on the backside trapping any gas that flowed through?
Frank Rodriguez yes it should but I still wanna see how it looks but yes the bloack behind helps trap shielding gas I always use a backing when welding stainless
Not just the back side of the fillet, but also the underside of the bottom plate would be effected. Would not be any "overflow" of argon getting back there.
Cool. I've always wanted to weld with stainless with my powertig. I hear there is money out there welding stainless for restaurants.
How to weld 1mm thick ss sheet please guide us . And 0.8mm too
Can u tig weld 22 gauge stainless
This is very nice!
What size tungsten should be used for thin stainless 3/32 or 1/16
Great Video!
I regularly have to tig high-carbon stainless, that has been cut too deep, in very expensive CNC machined parts; for the food service industry.
I would appreciate some insight dealing with filling in approx .08 cutouts along an edge .1 thick.
If the opportunity presents itself; not everybody is dealing with thick material constantly.
Any tips? I need to get small welds down on some really thin stuff.
Any suggestions you could give on over head tig
Dude mine looked like shit. Did a corner weld.All black, underside was shit too
Please do a copper nickel pipe with tig
then do you beat it back flat while its still hot or wait for it to cool
Are you using a pulse setting on your machine?
Where's mr. tig haven't seen a video with him in about a year. Great welds btw Bob
Please sir show me how to tig weld straight lines on 1mm stainless steel sheet with out penatrate the other of the sheet
Hi Bob, I have a dc, 200A Tig with pulsed option. Is possible to weld stainless 430 of 0.5mm in corner joint with this? Can you make a video?
Great video! Are you left or right handed?
Try mig weld stainless pipe fitting
Any issue with sugaring on the backside with 65A?
Very nice Bob but I have one request I know you probably cant get to this but I work in aerospace space currently as a tig welder and there is a bump in the road that I have ran into and I'm wondering if I can see it be done I have a weld test coming back up but a little new to me its .090 thickness 321 Stainless steel using .045 filler wire needed to be used need to fill with no undercut full penetration in the back even all the way threw start to finish it's a Butt joint can add a groove if needed, and is going to be x rayed thank you for your time.
And only one pass
If I go from right to left how would u held the torch?
what amps is best for this same metal just a flat plate? my welds on stainless seem to hot but only on about 35-40 amps and they are grey
Hi bob, I'm having some troubles with MAG welding of Stainless steels. In fact, we use a circular butt-weld configuration for joining tube fitters to a tank shell (1,5mm in thickness ) and we always find hot cracks before the overlap region. What do you is the cause and how to prevent such defect ?
d.17 aerospace test ?
Is the contest for the esab still going on or ??
Bob, here's a question I've often had with respect to back purging stainless welds. We all know that the conventional way to do this is with an argon purge but I've always wondered if you could accomplish the same goal by using vacuum. This would have many advantages if it would work. For one thing there would be on argon expense. Just hook up your vacuum pump, need one of those for air conditioning work anyway, suck out the air and go to town after sealing off the object you're trying to weld. OK something like a SS exhaust system if you need to know. Have you ever heard of someone doing this and is it feasible?
SATAMAN Schmidt
Welding of some form or another can be done in a vacuum, however you need a very significant vacuum to get enough oxygen out that the weld is protected without running inert gas. You definitely couldn't do it in a sheet metal box, you would need a thick walled chamber. Even then some oxygen might still be present. It would be interesting to see how the heat from the tungsten in gtaw would cross the arc gap in a vacuum. I would think tig might not work at all or at a reduced heat level with no gas present in the arc gap. Just as helium increases heat, a vacuum might lower the heat or eliminate it.
Don't think you understood the question. The entire piece isn't going to be placed in a vacuum. On a tube (headers for example) use rubber stoppers on each open end with one of the stoppers having a whole in it to connect to the vacuum pump just as you would with an argon tank except you'd need a vent hole on the other side if using argon back purge as the argon has to go somewhere.
SATAMAN Schmidt
A vacuum strong enough to pull the oxygen/gas out of a header would pose several problems. One is if your weld penetrates the material at all you will have a hole and a loss of vacuum instantly. Second, it takes a serious amount of vacuum to pull enough gasses out that the backside of the weld isn't exposed to oxygen. Enough that the integrity of the pipe could play a role. Obviously not a option on anything thin wall. And third a vacuum strong enough to vacate the pipe of oxygen will surely pull in oxygen into the pipe negating shielding processes. Obviously if it needs welding it has unwelded areas that will just allow air into the pipe. Not practical by any means, biggest issue being that any remote pipe penetration would lead to the molten metal being sucked in. Just as back purging will lead to a weld blowout as you finish the weld provided you didn't leave a vent hole for the Argon to escape.
I understand what you're saying and it's not feasible. You would have to ensure that the argon coming from the torch surrounded the entire area to be welded (every microscopic gap) at all times, or the vacuum is going to draw in air.
You cannot control dissipation to atmosphere in that application. You *can* control dissipation in a back purge setup.
And there's no way to get a perfect vacuum on something that's not sealed. Vacuum equipment has a very low CFM rate of evacuation. Even a pinhole sized opening and that thing will never build vacuum, never mind create an environment akin to back purging.
The idea of welding in a vacuum chamber I think has merit though. Execution, equipment cost, setup cost, productivity rates etc would be the defining factor vs back purging.
It’s an interesting question. How much oxygen, and nitrogen, don’t forget that, needs to be removed? It’s likely that not all of it does, but most all of it. So what would the Hg number need to be? The problem is that you would need a really good seal on the back. But, if your goal isn’t really to save gas, then it might work by drawing argon through the small gap as long as you raise the argon flow. It wouldn’t be perfect, but it could help.
And, by the way, you need the resistance of the air gap for the arc to work properly. That resistance is what produces the heat.
I often use a device I made out of several inches of 1” square copper. I milled a flat in the middle on the corner, drilled and tapped it for a rubber handle. I then milled an 1/8” deep flat along the opposite corner extending to about 1/8” of the ends. When I put that behind the fillet, the slight opening between the two pieces of metal captures a small amount of argon from the torch, and pushes out the air. It works pretty well. I made a similar thing out of 1/4” thick flat copper stock. Machine a groove in the middle. That allows argon to displace the air if you have preflow set for a couple of seconds, and a tiny gap.
Nice result, but when you can't see what's going on in the puddle, some of the purpose goes missing.
how come the video missed the initial formation of the weld pool? Do you start on the continuous side and then move over? It happens pretty fast for me.
That's a smooth shield when you put it down to weld I haven't found one that doesn't slam down.
How about stainless squares tubing to ss sheet? Anybody ever weld 22 gage?
Really like Bobs videos, but what ever happened to Mr. Tig?
He doesn't play golf so they canned him. I enjoyed his videos too!
thanks for vid
Nice video, not as simple as you make it looks.
Hahaha keeping up that golf game always helps.🤣
Are you right or left handed in day to day life?
I want to weld 32 mm thickness plate or pl tell me chart for high thickness welding co2 400amp
but was there sugaring on the back? that's my problem with stainless...
Michael Robertson There wasn't but sorry we forgot to show that. That's why I need to go fast.
How do you determine what size cup?
Generally the thickness of metal ( amperage) and type of joint.
Bob Moffatt so more amps, bigger cup?
Can you show the back, I keep getting sugar.
My welds turn out real dull and not colorful at all can you tell me what I'm doing wrong?
Gas
Bob, I'm a beginner welder. I was practicing on 304 Stainless 1/8 in Coupons. I'm using 100% Argon at 30 CFH, Stubby gas lense, #8 Cup, 3/32 2% Lanth, 308L 1/16 Filler. All my welds are coming out dark Gray. No matter how low I go on amperage, i can't seem to get bright colors. Any ideas would be much appreciated. Thanks for all the great Videos.
I asking myself the same question. How to get bright weld. Where are you now at, one year later?
Late comment, but use piece of aluminum block or angle 1/8" or preferably 1/4" or more to touch as much of the back side or the weld as you can as a backer. It will pull the heat from the stainless and keep the temps down so reduce to oxidation (gray)...
I keep sugaring stainless like this any tips???
I'm having the same issue, keep getting sugaring and the weld is also contaminated. I've tried every setting from here to the moon and nothing helps. But I'm welding 1,2mm stainless steel.
I notice that everyone talks about foot pedals. What about those without foot pedals, or the welding situation doesn't allow for foot pedals?
How many amp is good for 1.5mm thick stainless? I believe I welded like you do, not as good as you but I'm not getting those golden/blue beads like Pacific arc tig weld does, but you're also using a normal sized cup and he seems to be using giant gas lenses... Is brushing the stainless after the weld acceptable, or using electro polishing brushes to remove the oxidation acceptable?
I don't watch PATW much because his result is unrealistic for someone without a GIANT cup and lots of gas flow. Regardless of the setup I have, #8 or #10 I've found the best result is from about 5 liters per minute (I guess this is about 10 CFH). I've dialed down the pressure quite a bit, the manufacturer of my welder recommends 15 psi, I don't have a gauge measuring the discharge pressure but the dialing down really saves on gas. More gas than 10CFH, even twice as much (20CFH) doesn't help me at all.
Hi Bob, great video. I have tried to do the same, only my 304 is 2mm thick, using 12mm gas lens with 2.4mm 2%throriated red tungsten, sharpened quite thin. 20cfm argon. 70amps current. 3 sec start and 8 sec post gas. Am very new at stainless welding. My welds have a black scale on which kind of releases a bit as the weld cools so you can see a bit of shine underneath. I guess if I brushed it would come off. Why are my welds not shiney and bright like yours?
Hi Shane, check out the fabrication series by Tim McAmis here on YT, he goes through flow rate, Furick cups, and some trouble shooting.
th-cam.com/video/fEJulorXTMw/w-d-xo.html
That vid addresses your question. (around 12:54 ), but I'd watch the entire vid. !
Im a beginner myself. Sounds like your cooking your work piece. That could be one of the issues. I started moving a little faster and put down rod more often mine came out shinny.
sorry sir, i see the bottom plate has distortion
Does the "camera guy" have a name? Don't tell me Huckleberry.
BTW..... What makes your filler wire stick to the work? How can I prevent this?
Mark Tracy
If filler wire sticks to the molten pool your either running too little amperage or too big of a filler wire.
That dang camera guy always riding the rails. He's gotta keep up. Stay on him Bob.
I can smell it threw the screen
I would have liked to see the back
Don't need use of rod ,use autogenous welding way ,not even the amperage used was shown .
What was the exact amperage used during the weld? I've tried even 30 amps and it melted the steel at the joints especially when i'm doing tubes. Need some advise on this.
@Sic Semper Tyrannis In the video appears to be 90 amps(!) OMG, how can he do it!?
a very good tig welder on a 16th stainless steel should not burn through, you should show the back side of that.
Camera man needs a different filter if you want to show more than the arc. I would like to watch your puddle. *:)* Donald
Donald in New Mexico ooooh talk dirty to me
Put a weight on it...just in case I STICK......Gold Nugget there for free.....
Charlie Chaplin
Could you show the backside next time