Fiberglass Core Replacement Part 2
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.ย. 2024
- Part 2 of a short series on how to repair a rotten or delaminated core on your boat. For more detailed information on the materials used in this episode please visit our website www.boatworkstoday.com
I have a baja islander im refurbishing and your videos are really helpful, thanks.
Great Tips. Thanks again so much for sharing with us lowly Sailboat Restorations Geeks!
Thank you! I appreciate the kind words :-)
very helpful video!! is there a continuation of this video. I would like to see a how you finish this. Thanks for all you are doing!
Jason
Fantastic! Thanks for posting your videos.
Love your informational videos, great job!!!!
Thank you! Hoping to have Part 3 posted within the next few days (it's been one of those weeks and I am a little behind :-)
not sure if you guys cares but if you are bored like me during the covid times then you can watch pretty much all the latest series on InstaFlixxer. Been binge watching with my girlfriend during the lockdown =)
What do you seal the plywood with before you started applying the glass process?
really enjoying your videos. thx.
great stuff. I like the idea for the cleats with the shims to push the panel down. Probably a stupid question, but what did you pre-seal the plywood with before laying the 403?
I saw on another channel they put the container of mixed epoxy into a larger container of ice water to control the heat and slow the cure.
At heart I'm a sailor too :-) Thank you!!
Thank you so much for these vids. So helpful. Curious would coosa work for this type of replacement considering the bottom should be glassed? I guess you have the bottom laminate there and it is bonded with the epoxy. I have a much larger recore job and I’d much rather use coosa or other composite material
well at least you have helpers.....saw your bird friends @ 5:35.....lol
Thanks for the video. I do have a question, what did you use to seal the plywood before epoxy?
Agreed that it would be a good idea, but I typically don't wear glasses when working face down with thick resin / epoxy.. It would almost require an electric egg beater for it to splash in any way :-)
Just straight epoxy mixed with the hardener :-) Not a silly question at all! There's a lot that I had to edit out in order to get the video down to 10-12 minutes. Some details just don't make it :-(
Meaning used plexus first then core bond for voids
to get the 403 into the sidewall edges i would of used some kind of caulk gun or squrt bottle,maybe even a pastry bag lol . that would of been faster and more effective i think
That corner didn't let loose but it is a little proud. For some reason that section of the pocket that was cut out wasn't the same thickness as the rest of the area.. I think there's a bulkhead underneath that one section that was put in a little stiff. My guess is that thinner squares of plywood were used in that area to compensate for the un-evenness... I take care of that issue in the next episode :-)
Good catch!!
Love your videos! I have an older trawler, and there is a lot of water damage in the walls of the wheelhouse, especially under the windows. I am almost done tearing out the rotted plywood core, and was wondering if replacing it all around the vertical sections of the wheelhouse, especially where the windows will need to be re-bedded, is essentially the same process. Can I just do a couple layers of 1708 and skip the plywood, then insulate with closed cell foam, and cover with like frp? That is kind of my plan. Oh I am working from the inside out, as the gel coat is pretty much ok, just major leaks under the windows. Also I am going to be working in colder weather down in the harbor (around 30-45 deg f.) Are there any recommendations for working with fiberglass in this kind of environment? Thank you so much, I really get a ton of info from your videos!
Does it make any difference if one uses marine plywood or regular plywood?
Great information. Do recommend marine grade plywood for the core, or doesn't it matter if its sandwiched between layers of glass?
I do. It's a much better material and so much easier to work with!! The sheets are dead flat (no warping) making it easier to fit into place
What type of plywood do you use for your core replacements
Hi Jason :-) Yes there will be more vids showing the rest of this project through completion. I was hoping to have Part 3 up this weekend but it looks like it's going to be sometime this coming week.. Thanks for the comment and please remember to subscribe to my channel if you haven't done so already :-)
Your videos are great and very helpfull.Im working on a 94 ANGLER center console boat, is this site still curant? i can use some advise,thanks
Is there a reason you don't use core bond? Or is it not structurally sound enough?I've used core bond on bulkheads after using plexus to fill in small voids
West System 404 is basically Cabosil for all who wanted to know.
Is polyester resin a possible alternative to epoxy for laminating?
How's it going. I'm looking at doing a similar job on a J24. The main wench has allowed water to destroy the core. Was wondering what type of wood you used for you core replacement. Thanks.
Ok I see you used the epoxy sorry I was a bit distracted watching this. Is there something less expensive I can use to seal it before hand?
Did you sand the plywood after pre seal/ before laying it in to be bonded?
Nope :-) That's actually the best way to do this (similar to laying tile) but I didn't have one and didn't feel like cutting up my nice metal spatula! That being said, a notched trowel is what I normally use but it's kind of a 'one use item' when working with epoxy.. Great comment!
What are your thoughts on core materials such as nidacore honeycomb and Coosa board for decking
Was there a reason you didn't use a notched trowel to spread the epoxy? :-)
:-) Thanks!
The reason you're having soft-deck issues in the first place, is due to the wood core. It my not be wet now, but at some point in time, it certainly did get wet and certainly did rot. They do make various synthetic core materials and you can buy them. They are lighter, stronger, won't absorb water, won't rot etc. They've been around a long time (my 1976 sailboat has a synthetic cored deck.) If you're going through all the trouble of trying to fix spongy deck and soft-spots, why not really fix them? You will never be able to guarantee the job otherwise.
BTW, I would never buy a boat with a wood cored deck, even if it showed zero soft spots. (I have in the past.) It was a bad, construction idea then and remains a bad idea now.
Did they not have protective eyewear in 2013?
👍
What kind of boat are you going to Andy?
What would you think about using vinyl-ester and a vacuum infusion system on something like this...?
highvelocity123 It's a cool process, but for something of this size would end up being more work than it's worth :-/ And more expensive... Still cool to do, though! Fun to do for small parts ;-)
Would there be any chance I would be able to contact yourself about a similar job on my own boat. Hope to hear from yourself :-)
Now I know why he he was smiling when he was pickup the old core ....
I'm doing the top deck on my boat and it sucks
Just me or did the right most corner @ 10:20 pop up again? :)
I have a rear sun deck that had a layer of balsa core then few layers of glass then another layer of balsa core then the outer skin long story short both layers of core are bad could squeeze water out of the balsa once I started removing it. real wet stuff almost the whole sunpad was delaminated. question is can I replace the balsa with plywood instead the balsa was 1/2 cores so using 1 inch ply with your reliefe cuts like you did in this video.
+John Hainer Structurally yes, but there will be a significant weight increase. That high up it will likely cause more rocking / rolling under way. Also the supports for the deck may not be designed for that much weight load. Personally I'd stick with balsa again or possibly looking into using foam matting.. Hope this helps!
It does thank you enjoyed your videos. here's a link to the boat I am working on you can see the hatch in one of the pics it's only 33x60 rear engine hatch. it had 2 layers of balsa both delaminated from each other and from the outer skin for a total thickness of an inch. figured I would use birtch ply 3/4 to replace with a few more layers of glass wet out the wood to seal then 2 layers of glass on the hatch while wet set the wood in screw from back side until setup then add 2 more layers of glass over the top then one layer of cloth. that was the plan anyways :) but here is the photos. goo.gl/photos/cVaJQMc98gC9XUDEA
thank you
forgot to say the reason I am doing this to such an old boat well, when I was younger I worked for sunsation boats and build this boat when new I probably built the hatch the first time :)
+John Hainer too cool :-)!
+John Hainer That should work ;-)
Question wheres your safety glasses?
why wasnt the whole deck not replaced on this boat. if you found this strange type of deck repair, why wouldn't you convince the owner to do the right thing.
Dollars. Can't spend what you don't have
would it be a good idea to use a syringe to inject the thickened epoxy into the gap ?