Good job man. Been buying broken electronics and amps for a long time, fixing them and either keeping them for myself to enjoy or making some money on the side. Its actually quite easy if you know what your doing, and all these parts are accessible and dirt cheap. Some of us cant afford 2300 for a sundown salt amp, or DD 8k or similar. But can sure buy a broken one for 100 bucks and enjoy it after a few bux and a couple of hours worth of soldering. Ive fixed 3 of these RP 2ks, and a bunch of other random RP and SK model Skar amps. These are very reliable amps, put out over rated if you give them the juice. The problem is that many people clip the absolute shit out of amps and thats really the killer. Incorrectly set EQ setting on a headunit, or just turning the gain all the way up on an amp and all the filters and gains is a guaranteed short life span for subs and amps. Its easy to detect by close listening when you go one click too high on the volume and it starts to distort. Keeping under that distortion is key as providing an amp with a dirty signal will overheat it to the point of failure, same with sub coils. Give them clean signal, and you can get about 2300-2400 watts @1ohm out of this amp if you have good power going into it. Say 13.8v-14.5v constant. All you really need is a single run of 0 guage running to a second battery in the back, XS or even a group 31 would be just fine, then run it to the amp and make sure you have a real solid ground, like a seatbelt bolt, sand around that bitch and get all the paint off. Bolt a run of 0 guage down with an actual ring connector or ground junction if using other amps as well. That goes for all amps like these, they are basically all the same, and honestly, these older half bridge style amps are my personal favorite to own and work on. Then there are brazillian style amps and the (FB) or Full Bridge style also. Those only make power if you really give them a shitload of juice and are good, but tend to sound a little weird in comparison to these style of amps, they just dont hit the low notes quite as hard.
I'm always surprised theres so few of us who actually know how to repair these given how easy it is in most cases. Given every ounce of needed material for learning this stuff and everything else one could possibly want to do is free online.
@@adamelwood7768 The blue LED only shows when the amplifier is "on" and "running" if the blue led is dimming or cuts out, it basically means that its losing power intermittently somehow. I would suggest checking power and grounds. Could also be the remote lead to the head unit.
Also, i can tell you from experience that these amps wont run properly on a wire smaller than a 4 guage (And even thats really pushing it) I suggest a 1/0 guage power and ground. You can also run a bigger power lead from your alternator to the battery. (This one can be a 4 guage or 1/0) That will greatly improve your power output.
I just Blew my Skar 2500d 1ohm. I just got a 5000 Farad Cap so I turned the amp up for my 1ohm 15 ZVX Skar. It lasted about a day. I still have the stock head unit.(you live and you learn) I'm going to fix the amp myself and buy a Good receiver for it finally. I have JL Audio components in the front and door with a MTX 400 4 channel amp for those. My Amp and Cap are dead right now.
The car I just bought has one of their SK-M9005D in it. It was working fine until the other day it started going into protect mode. It will power up then flash protect. My buddy had me unplug each speaker to see if one was blown. Still did it. Then had me unplug the RCAs and still did it. He said it was internal. He suggested just get a new one because they are only about $150. Well problem is no one has a new one. And in this BMW Z4 there isn't much room to put anything else.
I have the same problem mine stuck in protect mode as well I only play it for a week on 2 twelve kickers man can anyone give me instructions on what to do please
I really enjoy watching people that know what they’re doing repair things properly. You are methodical, patient, and smart. Thanks for sharing.
Good job man. Been buying broken electronics and amps for a long time, fixing them and either keeping them for myself to enjoy or making some money on the side. Its actually quite easy if you know what your doing, and all these parts are accessible and dirt cheap. Some of us cant afford 2300 for a sundown salt amp, or DD 8k or similar. But can sure buy a broken one for 100 bucks and enjoy it after a few bux and a couple of hours worth of soldering. Ive fixed 3 of these RP 2ks, and a bunch of other random RP and SK model Skar amps. These are very reliable amps, put out over rated if you give them the juice. The problem is that many people clip the absolute shit out of amps and thats really the killer. Incorrectly set EQ setting on a headunit, or just turning the gain all the way up on an amp and all the filters and gains is a guaranteed short life span for subs and amps. Its easy to detect by close listening when you go one click too high on the volume and it starts to distort. Keeping under that distortion is key as providing an amp with a dirty signal will overheat it to the point of failure, same with sub coils. Give them clean signal, and you can get about 2300-2400 watts @1ohm out of this amp if you have good power going into it. Say 13.8v-14.5v constant. All you really need is a single run of 0 guage running to a second battery in the back, XS or even a group 31 would be just fine, then run it to the amp and make sure you have a real solid ground, like a seatbelt bolt, sand around that bitch and get all the paint off. Bolt a run of 0 guage down with an actual ring connector or ground junction if using other amps as well. That goes for all amps like these, they are basically all the same, and honestly, these older half bridge style amps are my personal favorite to own and work on. Then there are brazillian style amps and the (FB) or Full Bridge style also. Those only make power if you really give them a shitload of juice and are good, but tend to sound a little weird in comparison to these style of amps, they just dont hit the low notes quite as hard.
I'm always surprised theres so few of us who actually know how to repair these given how easy it is in most cases. Given every ounce of needed material for learning this stuff and everything else one could possibly want to do is free online.
Does the blue LED show any signs that something isn't right? Or would it? Mine seems to flicker/fade randomly.
@@adamelwood7768 The blue LED only shows when the amplifier is "on" and "running" if the blue led is dimming or cuts out, it basically means that its losing power intermittently somehow. I would suggest checking power and grounds. Could also be the remote lead to the head unit.
Also, i can tell you from experience that these amps wont run properly on a wire smaller than a 4 guage (And even thats really pushing it) I suggest a 1/0 guage power and ground. You can also run a bigger power lead from your alternator to the battery. (This one can be a 4 guage or 1/0) That will greatly improve your power output.
@@xxdjsolomanxx narrowed it down to the cheap line out converter im using. no a/c current coming out either of the rca's
I just Blew my Skar 2500d 1ohm. I just got a 5000 Farad Cap so I turned the amp up for my 1ohm 15 ZVX Skar. It lasted about a day. I still have the stock head unit.(you live and you learn) I'm going to fix the amp myself and buy a Good receiver for it finally. I have JL Audio components in the front and door with a MTX 400 4 channel amp for those. My Amp and Cap are dead right now.
Being able to repair is useful knowledge
The car I just bought has one of their SK-M9005D in it. It was working fine until the other day it started going into protect mode. It will power up then flash protect. My buddy had me unplug each speaker to see if one was blown. Still did it. Then had me unplug the RCAs and still did it. He said it was internal. He suggested just get a new one because they are only about $150. Well problem is no one has a new one. And in this BMW Z4 there isn't much room to put anything else.
How much are the parts you replaced and where best to order them? I have the exact same amp with the exact same problem and this video gave me hope 😅
Can u send me info where u bought the parts to get it fixed.
How much you charge to fix a skar rp1500 does the same thing
I need 2 amps fixed how do I send them to you
How much do you charge also would like to fix mine its having same problems
I have a 1500w RP-15001D that got fried from the ground tapping the power adapter. Was wondering if you were able to fix it?
Nvm i got that working but i have a 1000w mid n high amp stuck in protection mode
I have the same problem mine stuck in protect mode as well I only play it for a week on 2 twelve kickers man can anyone give me instructions on what to do please
I need the same parts
Are they 0603 or 0805?
What size are the smd 22 ohm ?
I need my amp fixed can you do it ?
Do you have a service for repairs?
I need a service repair on mine
You're pulling the spreader the wrong way
I need the information two
For 200 i can buy another ,,y go thru all this
He fixed it for an hours work and 15 bucks. Some people like me actually enjoy repairing things.
Hey how are you would you mind PDF me instructions on how to fix mine please
@@georgeowen2083 fix amps
Those mosfets always blow to bad there isn't a way to upgrade them mofo's