Zenith Super Duty FUEL LINE Installation
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ส.ค. 2021
- In this Zenith Super Duty build video, we are installing the fuel line from Aircraft Specialty Flightlines.
Complete Fuel Line Kit: aircraftspecialty.com/superdut...
Additional Info:
Two questions often come up regarding my fuel line installation. First, what is the lifespan of the hose, and second, why do I use a sealant on the threads.
Let's first talk about the life of the hoses. All hoses from Aircraft Specialty are conductive Teflon PTFE. PTFE is just a fancy technical name for Teflon. Notice I said "conductive" Teflon and not just Teflon. There is a big difference. I've heard many people say "I can build my own hoses from Summit Racing for a lot less money." True you can, but lets' look at WHY it's cheaper. The hoses you will get from Summit may be Teflon, but not conductive Teflon. The flow of fluid in the hoses causes static to build up. Eventually that static can "punch" tiny hoes in your hoses and make them weep. (Google it for a better explanation).
The conductive Teflon hoses from Aircraft Specialty have carbon in the Teflon and that grounds the hose from end to end and prevents that static build up. Yes you can purchase high quality conductive Teflon hoses and make your own, but the cost is equal to what you will pay for a pre-assembled and pressure tested hose from a company like Aircraft Specialty.
So when you look at the life of a standard Teflon hose, it is recommended you change them every 10 years because that static electricity build up can damage the hose over time. The conductive Teflon hoses have an indefinite life. AS still recommends changing your firewall forward hoses when you have your engine rebuilt. The hoses from the wing to the firewall can remain installed for the life of the airplane. If it takes you 30 years to reach TBO on your engine, your FWF hoses will be just fine.
Thread sealant. Note that if you are installing an NPT fitting, it is required to use a sealant. On a hose with a flared end, it is not recommended to use sealant. Then why do I use it? You have to understand WHY it's not recommended. Using sealant will not hurt anything, but you have to be very careful not to get any on the flare or IN the hose. That can travel to your carb or fuel injection system and cause issues. I like the sealant because when putting steel hoses on aluminum fittings, I feel it helps "lube" the threads and prevents galling of the threads. I very carefully apply the sealant and leave the first two or three threads clean with no sealant. Doing it this way makes it impossible to get sealant where I don't want it. Remember, YOU are the manufacture of YOUR aircraft. You have the final say in your own construction methods.
Aircraft Specialty Flightlines: www.asflightlines.com
NOTE: The firewall gascolator mount DOES come with the fuel line kit. (the gascolator comes with the Zenith kit).
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#zenithsuperduty #stol #homebuiltaircraft - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
That Carl Goldberg reference brought me back 30 years to my early RC days. Thanks - it's a nice memory.
FYI-they aren’t from Carl Goldberg. I thought they were but it turns out they are from Sullivan.
@@KitplaneEnthusiast Yes - now I rember. Either case, good memories. Enjoy your build today. Cheers - John
Really clean attention to detail work.
Glad you back working on this bird...👍👍👏👏😊😊💯💯👍🇺🇸🇺🇸!!!
Excellent update, I enjoyed watching. Learned a little too! Which is always a bonus. Cheers from Winnipeg.
Looking good mate looking good.
Love the Carl Goldberg reference. I built a lot of those planes in the ‘80’s.
I used cable tube clamps to secure them. Like the ones you used for the fuel lines. I think you called them addel clamps. I called them P clamps because they’re shaped like a P. Lol
I always enjoy watching the specific tasks you work through. You come up with ingenious ways to make things work like they should. Thanks
Mark, thank you for the videos they are very helpful. I am considering the SD build but may be a year away from starting. Question about the cargo, was there plenty of room for all the stuff you had to bring to Oshkosh ? Could you talk about that in a video sometime? It would be interesting to see how spacious it is. Thank you, Dan.
Beautiful workmanship! You wouldn't want an oil leak in any of those components.
Hi Mark it would be good to see the difference between the control layout especially the elevator setup from the SD and the Cruzer seems to be a topic of conversation on the forums lately. Also what did your Cruzer weigh in at when finished.
I wonder if it wouldn't be better to use a similar aluminum washer on the thru hole. Not sure what the washers you used were as they had a bronze hue to them? Not a fan of having dissimilar metals together. Am I wrong? Is the blue anodization enough to prevent that especially if anodization gets scratched and you get concentrated corrosion at a single point? I see this a lot on the Reddit Aviation Maintenance thread. Also anything to worry about if using low lead and switching to the new av gas formulation coming this year or going from av gas to mo gas as in a Rotax engine besides the oil change schedule? Just thinking ahead to the whole fuel system. What is the quoted life of these fuel lines?
Can you link the deburring tool that looks like a countersink bit, I can find straight versions of that one but I have been unable to find anything like the offset one that you have.
May I ask in 5:07 why didn't you put the two washers at the different side of the bulkhead?
It was my impression that quality AN fuel line fittings do not require a sealant. However, I've also seen it recommended to, as much as possible, use similar metals in male-female fittings such as aluminum to aluminum or steel to steel. I have aluminum AN fittings throughout my plane, used no sealant, and have never had a drop of leakage. However, the one time I used a steel fitting connected to an aluminum fitting (such as you are doing throughout your fuel system), it leaked! So, I think it might be good insurance to use a sealant such as you are doing.
For those who want to save some money, you can fabricate your own fuel lines by buying the hose and fittings. I used Earl's, a quality supplier that sells conductive-lined hose. One additional advantage is you can leave the fitting off one end of the hose and run it through smaller holes since you don't have to have a bigger hole to pass the fitting through and then attach the distal fitting once the hose is in place. This also will allow you to run one continuous length from fuselage bulkhead fitting to fuel selector valve, eliminating one or two connecting fittings in the run.
Great, detailed video. Keep'em coming, Mark!
John, you should read what I wrote in the description box.
"When all else fails, read the instructions. " So, to paraphrase, "When all else fails, read the discussion box!" LOL!
@@n206ja FYI-I just added the explanations to help answer a couple questions. So it wasn’t there before. You’re off the hook! Lol
John and all,
Sealant is NOT required on AN flare joints. It is required on NPT threads. No issue at all with stainless fittings on anodized aluminum fittings. For those who want to fabricate their own fuel lines, there are absolutely high quality "do it yourself" lines available. However, it is extremely important to make sure you are utilizing a conductive lined hose. A standard non conductive teflon hose which is available from many industrial/automotive suppliers will not stand the test of time due to static discharge to the pin braid which can result in a weeping "soaker" hose over time. For those that enjoy fabricating hoses, it is definitely something to consider. However, there is no real cost savings to doing so. Another item to consider is the pressure testing of the assemblies. A correct proof pressure test is in the thousands of PSI. The hose will never see that in actual usage, but the proof pressure test is done to ensure correct assembly of components.
Meticulous work!
Would be interested to know why you put sealant on AN fitting and where you put it: on the thread or on the flare?
Good question. So others can also learn, I have posted my answer in the description box of this video.
OK, so I have to geek-out and ask how you arrived at those precise caliper dimensions to locate the pass through fitting into your fuselage. Do they correspond to the as-built fuel line location in your wing or ???? Great video Mark.
You dont have to be that precise. All I did was mount one elbow so that it cleared the longeron, and once that pilot hole was drilled, just measured it so I could get it in the same place on the other side.
Have you considered adding a BRS?
I’ll be starting my SuperDuty late 22’, looking around for a 750 build with a chute.
No I haven't.
Mark, I saw that you plugged the vent tube for the gas tank. But, if I understand, you will relocate the vent tube so it will not leak onto your wing. How does this work? Where will the new vent tube go? How is it set up? Thanks!
On the Super Duty tank there is no vent tube. The threaded hole I plugged is for a return line if you are using an engine like the UL Power. The fuel caps are vented.
Excellent video and I will contact Aircraft Specialty. I understand you are not installing a UL Power engine but have one in your Cruiser - I'm considering a UL520T (turbo) for my 750SD which will require a Header Tank (I will often be at gross and live in the Rocky mountains). Do you have any videos on the installation of your UL engine including the fuel system (I looked but no luck)?
Yes I have a couple videos on the UL Power.
Do the plans call for flex lines everywhere? Also, What is the service life of the flex lines?
The plans call for rubber hose. You can use it if you want, just be aware that in 5 years you'll need to replace it all.
@@KitplaneEnthusiast I for sure wouldn’t want rubber hoses! Just wonder why they don’t use solid aluminum tubing,... what is the service life of the lines you installed?
@@cebunting You can use solid aluminum tubing. In fact this is what I initially planned in my Cruzer. The problem is that you have to get the bends very precise, and you can't use one line from wing to fuel selector. Using multiple lines means multiple connection points that have the potential to leak. The other thing I don't like about solid aluminum lines is that should you find yourself crashing into the trees or the back-country and the fuselage gets bent, those lines can break and pour fuel all over the inside of the plane. Prob not a good idea. The flexible braided lines will simply bend and not break. For the life of the hoses, see the description box of this video for more info.
@@KitplaneEnthusiast thanks for explanation! Makes good sense now.
Actually you should have one washer on the inside and one on the outside. Fuel lines inside the cabin make me crazy.
You can put one on the inside and one on the outside like I did on the two 90 degree elbows in the tunnel, but you’ll have to grind down the inside washer quite a bit to fit under the longeron.
That's the way I did mine in the STOL 750. I ground a flat side on the inner washer which fit flush with the longeron.@@KitplaneEnthusiast
@@n206ja Either way works. There’s no scientific reason both washers can not be on one side. These fittings are designed to go into a hole with a washer on the nut. It makes no difference if two washers are under the nut.
@@KitplaneEnthusiast I agree either way works, but if you put a large-diameter washer on the inside (i.e., there's a washer on both sides of the fuselage skin), it greatly increases the surface area of the clamping forces and somewhat increases the rigidity/decreases the flex of the fitting on the very thin fuselage skin. I'll grant you, however, in this particular application there is very little stress so the benefits are marginal, at best! As you say, either way works - and do what works for you! LOL!
Can you use electrical great shrink tubing to splice your protective sleeve? Grote makes a hot glue line shrink tube as well.
Yes that's the plan. I need heat shrink that has glue on it. I have a lot of heat shrink tubing but non of it has glue to stick it in place.
How do you get the air bubbles out of the high point by the selector valve? I installed transparent fuel lines on my zenith. Scared me to death to see what air actually does and doesnt do. Air does not purge from a high point.
Obviously I know nothing about your fuel system, but there should be no air in your lines. My fuel system is nearly identical in the Cruzer as it is in the SD and it works perfectly well with no air bubbles. Maybe you’ll need to flush your system sort of like bleeding the brakes?
If you open your line and let it run, the air should evacuate. Trapped air that won’t bleed is usually a sign that your lines are oversized for the flow demand and you cannot generate enough velocity to purge the trapped air.
Trying to find your fuel level sender video without joy (the one before your burnout video). If they were to be installed inside the tanks per kit instructions, the float arms would need to be rotated 90°, correct? Is that catered for or would you just get more burned out scratching your head? Glad you took your time and made a great decision.
Looking great! Can’t wait to see it with an engine hanging off the nose.
cleee eeen
G,day from Quarantine house lockdown Sydney Australia.
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