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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ต.ค. 2024
- In this video, I show you two things: how I fine-tune my fountain pens, and how to get through the first day of Christmas if you're bored ;-).
DISCLAIMER: working on a nib always brings the risk of damage, so BE CAREFUL, GO SLOW, and CHECK YOUR PROGRESS OFTEN. I cannot take responsibility for ruined nibs: you carry out these techniques at your own risk!
10+ years later and the video still is helpful.
Thanks.
Yup, I have this model - the red/black stripe is outstanding - & like you, Stephen, wish that Pelikan would make an M1000 in this colour. I was only able to obtain a Broad nib - the BB's, OBB, etc are now no longer available, except thru' the pre-owned marketplace. I also have an M605 - the silvered accents are really attractive, & the cap/body are a beautiful, deep blue. As you may remember, I too, have hands like shovels, but the 600 series isn't uncomfortable when used. For myself, I wouldn't even entertain the 300 range - they're just too small. Thank you, as ever, for an incredible presentation !! :D
One of the most useful and enjoyable videos you have done. One of the things I don't understand is why one can't open up the vents and channels on plastic feeders. I think I heard Nathan said they would need etching? My apologies if this is the wrong word, but ebonite can be adjusted whereby plastic cannot. I learnt a lot, and I have ordered just now a pack of brass shim.
Another incredible video. You are such an asset to the community. You are a master scholar and teacher for all of us. Thank you.
you are a MASTER. I thoroughly relate to your 'neediness' with fountain pens. Learned so much and in awe!
Thank you very much for your kind words: I hope these techniques will be useful for you!
Thanks, I tried it out using a nail buffer - one tip that might be worth passing on is that if the cheap folded steel nib feels like it is trying to cut into the page when you write with it, it WILL cut right into the nail buffer's surface (in my case ruining one end). That pen started to leak too, so it has a new home in the bin. The other worked fine - it'll never be as good as one with a proper tip but it's fairly good now. Oh, and the Parker that was the reason for all this is great too!
Very nice lesson. I recently purchased a very old Swan FP that is scratchy. I will try your suggestions.
This was incredibly helpful. My new Namiki Falcon just sings now. The scratchiness is gone and the flow and line variation are perfect. I can't put it down.
I'm glad this was useful for you!
I'd suggest rocking the front edge of the nib forward and back (like a blotting paper roller) on some micro mesh (or fingernail buffer) to smooth out the very edge a bit.
This was very helpful. Successfully tuned my Jinhao X750. It simply glides on the paper now. Thank you! :)
You're welcome; I'm glad it helped!
Thanks for your excellent vid. It seems that, in the process of nib separation adjustment, one should take into account the flexibility of a nib. More flexible nib tines could conceivably be left closer together assuming that the normal pressure of writing will force them just enough apart to achieve a pretty optimum separation for capillary ink flow.
That's right.
If flattening to open yes, but can close without flatten. To open it you just need to insert a knife kind surface between, in the ink channel without the feeder. The tickness of the blade is enough to force the tines to open and the sharp edge to conduct it and begin operation. I think that the easiest way is fixing the blade in a vice and tapping softly with a hammer the back of the nib. The knife begins to enter the nib channel.
opening it without flaten the nib. Perhaps both are necessary.
It's nice to be able to adjust a pen yourself, isn't it? It saves money and gives you a sense of satisfaction :) Of course, the usual rules apply---practice on cheap pens and go slowly, checking your work at every step. Thanks for the video!
Does spreading out the tines make the nib scratchier? When a nib comes the the manufacturer, the tines are adjusted for flow, then the tip is beaded right? That would mean that the bead wouldn't be spread out, whereas spreading out the tines, after the fact is not the most ideal situation. I'm just putting this idea out there. I'm absolutely sure about this.
Thanks so much for this very helpful and easy to follow video! I found both the brass shim sheet set (K&S 258) and sets of the Micro-Mesh soft sanding pads in various sizes/shapes on Amazon - very reasonable prices for enough of each to get you through many pen tunings.
Thanks so much for your instructions. I tuned up my $5 pen and am so happy!
Great, glad this was useful!
Thanks for the tip, but the tines appear to be tapered properly. I believe the issue may be what is referred to by Richard Binder as a "baby bottom" problem. I don't know how to fix it though as it seems to involve smoothing the shape of the tip on the inside of the gap between the tines.
You can also turn it around and write with it always helps me to fix my skipping pens. Common sense really.
That was an amazing tutorial. Great timing too, since it will be useful if my new twsbi clear Vac700 that I'm expecting to arrive, is as dry as the previous models. I haven't got the tools yet because I'm not sure where to get them from, but I'll be ordering some, that's for sure. Thumbs up and thanks!
Merry Christmas! Great video -- very informative. Does this apply to italic nibs as well? I have a Plumix which somehow lost its line variation. I managed to fix it with some tinkering but can't get it as smooth as it was before. It is a little scratchy on the diagonal downstrokes, but not due to the edges of the nib cutting into the paper. Any thoughts?
The plier has a back screw. Adjust it and press what you wanna - It will just go the amount set by the screw. So you have no risc of exceed and deform because it is not the pressure that is regulated but the amount of movement, that is limited. The pressure is provided by your hands and transmited. What is nice is that it goes just till that limit and stops no mather the force you put in. It´s not like a torque wrench that you set the force:it is the movement that is limited.
It's like I can't get away from holiday media! Even on videos with unassuming titles like "Fine-Tuning a Fountain Pen", I get the holiday cheer. lol. Happy almost 1 year old birthday to this video.
Thank you! And merry Christmas!
Same to you sir! What pens do you hope to recieve this christmas? Do you have anyone you gift pens to?
I only gift pens to myself :-). This year, it was a Diplomat. Stay tuned to my channel for the review that will be uploaded in time.
Nice, can't wait.
Good tips that I've used in the past! I have found that anytime I fill or work on my pens, I can prevent getting ink all over my fingers by wearing a cheap pair of Nitrile surgical gloves.
Yes, that's a good idea.
really helpful, learned a lot. sadly I have only one pilot 823, which works well. need to buy some cheap pens to practice this...
please release a video on changing the nib of Reynolds Grippy :) . i have 2 of them for past 1 year and i love them.they're great for better hand writing and is inexpensive too
Clearly a useful video.....I quite like it.
I was wondering if you ever use or do repairs on vintage American pens? I saw that you had a Parker 51, but I haven't seen you use any others.
I'm so glad for that second part. I had a Pilot Vanishing Point that had the exact same problem with the taper going the wrong way that resulted from me pushing it too hard when attempting to do a little bit of flex writing. (I thought the springy nib could handle it).
I've fixed that problem now, but still have another. Under normal use, the pen writes completely ok, but when writing fast the feed just won't keep up. Is there some way to fix this? I don't think it's the nib causing the problem
Great video, thanks. I want to try this out on a Parker pen, but am a bit apprehensive. I also recently unearthed a couple of old no-name folded steel tipped, very cheap (and horribly scratchy) fountain pens that had been hibernating in the back of a drawer for about a decade, (probably cost me 99p in a supermarket) which would be ideal to practise on. Is there any reason why these techniques wouldn't work on nasty cheap folded steel tips rather than a properly tipped nib?
Stephen,
What causes a pen hard to start writing and then writes wet when it finally writes(after about 30 seconds). My Parker Green Check Duofold and Faber-Castell Ondoro does this. They are expensive and didn't expect them to act this way. My cheaper pens act better.
Thanks.....like your videos =)
Do you think this method is appropriate for a nib that has startup issues? One of mine writes perfectly wet enough once I get it going but whenever I pick it up to write with I have to apply some pressure to get ink on the paper initially. The tines appear to be aligned just fine.
@sbrebrown I had an idea: if one has trouble (like I have) to find brass shims, maybe it could work with a distance tool for car spark plugs. Like this one which has a .05 mm/0.002" version (website in Swedish but you can se the image and measurements): www.biltema.se/bil---mc/bilreservdelar/tanddelar/tandstift/bladmatt-mmtum-13-st-2000028588
Or is there a purpose of using brass as a material?
No, I've read about people using these things with good results, so this is a great idea
That's great, many thanks for the answer! I've ordered a bunch of different Jinhaos to try out with.
I had one pen that feels good, but wrote poorly and one cheap one that wrote good, now one writes well and the cheap one writes great!
Also bent the nib off a whole bunch and fixed it, and somehow cut my thumb on the nib pretty good.
I recommend you tu use a tool that in portuguese we call "alicate de pressão". Check google for images. It´s a kind of pliers that can regulate the amount it closes so you press without the problem of over presse cause it goes justa that amount.
I believe the name in english is: grip locking pliers.
Nice tutorial. Very informative. Merry Christmas.
Thank you for posting this video Stephen...I'll give it a try on a troublesome pen.
Would you say tuning steel nibs is a little bit harder than working on gold nibs due to the steel's stiffness etc?
Cheers.
Another question. Does splaying the tines increase the line width, when writing? For example, would splaying the tines on a fine nib, move it towards a medium line width?
Thanks for another great video. Where can I get 12,000 grit paper? Also: I've got a nice-looking pen but standard cartridges are too small for it. It has a German iridium point nib, but no maker's name. How can I get a cartridge that will fit? The opening for the cartridge looks like 6mm diameter. Thanks!
Do nibs always get broader when smoothed? This is something I've noticed, unless I'm doing something wrong, which is quite likely.
Well, you remove some tipping material, which may make the nib a bit broader. Making it wetter by opening the nib tines can also make the nib a bit broader.
Thank you, Stephen, for this great tutorial. I want to practice fine-tuning pens. Tell me, please, what are the most inexpensive pens on your radar? I'm sure I'll ruin a nib or two and I'd rather not cry over it.
The glue to use is A polycement, B Humbrol modelling cement, or as stephen has, Revell modelling cement (its all the same stuff
It all worked out in the end! Great video, thanks for making it.
How do you know on which pens the feed and nib can be removed from the pen and which ones can't? I have been pulling on a few of my pens but don't want to break them. Is there something that can be looked for?
I didnt realise this could be done on a nib.... Nice to learn something new...
Cheers...
Great video Stephen!
How about in the manicure section of a chemist's, or drug store (USA). I found them with each side of the buffer is labelled with a different "intensity". Works fine.
Stephan, do you know if I can use an ultrasonic cleaner to clean nibs & feeders. I am a Dentist & routinely use these to clean instruments. The test to see if your ultrasonic is still working is to submerge an aluminum strip. If it is full of holes, good. You may not know, of course. Just asking if you know. You have taken years off my learning curve. Thank you. David Nelson
Yes, I have used ultrasonic cleaners on my pens without any issues; I do understand that gold plating can occasionally come off when ultrasonic cleaners are used, but I have never experienced that myself.
I have not read all 147 comments so forgive me if this has been asked. What power loupe are you using? I am using a 10X and it seems yours is getting significantly more magnification than mine.
This is a 10x loupe made by BelOmo.
Thanks for this video; I think the 0.003" and 0.005" shims would be useful to have!
Nice video, thanks. Good info and so beneficial to the hobby to have this information made available by video.
BTW, did you acquire a Snorkle yet? :)
Hello Stephen, I am looking for some buffsticks.I checked out Richard Binder but the shipping to my country cost $40. Can you name to me any other shop that sell buffsticks?
Thanks for the response. Is there any way to donate to your cause?
excellent video , very helpfull
I own an old Elysee FP that has been stored for 30 years. It seems to be without a cartridge and the current ones are far too large in diameter to fit the barrel. Are cartridges still made for this model? All the ones I see for sale are too large. Could I use it as a syringe-filled pen. Thanks a bunch.
Philip Duffy I thought the Elysee required a thinner type of cartridge, but I'm not sure and I don't know if they're still made.
Brilliant. Thank you for the share friend!
Where did you get your fabulous nylon pliers and the fine tip glue? Thanks.
The nylon tip pliers are from Richard Binder, the fine tip for van be bought from almost any shop that sells model kits, e.g. Amazon.
sbrebrown Stephen, thank you so much for taking the time to reply to me! Extremely generous of you since I'm sure you're a very busy man. I appreciate it and the information. I'll be getting both. Stephen, years ago I purchased the Mont Blanc Meisterstuck 149 at full price (brand new), so it's one of my prized fountain pens. Recently, I used it and noticed (after seeing your vids) that the tines are not aligned, which accounts for it being slow to start and scratchy. I trust no one with it and I won't dare try to mess with it. Dare I send it to Mont Blanc and hope to get the same pen back? What do you advise? Thanks!
So Stephen, do you feel that if I send it to Montblanc I will get the exact pen back? The reason I ask is because years ago I sent a Parker Premiere gold pen (albeit 10K) with an exquisite art deco nib for repair but they kept it claiming they couldn't repair the nib. They sent me a "replacement" pen (18K) but it was nothing like mine. I didn't protest or demanded my original pen back due to excessive stress I was undergoing at work at the time. Hence, I did nothing and kept the pen. Therefore, I'm leery of these companies keeping the pens sent for repair. So, should I go ahead and send it to them? Thank you for your time.
Did you get you m1000 for Christmas ?????
Merry Christmas
xx
^,,^
How many days of Christmas did you get? I thought there was only one!
Sup mate, I love your videos. I recently bought a Sheaffer Agio (I'll gift it), but I think that the nib has a little imperfection on one side (Like a little metallic dot over there) which makes the fountain pen scratch a little in that side. Should I try to remove it by sanding it? or the future owner should do so? or the customer service should do so? (I guess the warranty could cover such imperfection)
The warranty should cover burrs, I think.
sbrebrown Wow, thanks for the quick answer. I wrote warranty last cuz in my country I guess it would take ages, but maybe i'll give it a try.
AnakinMSMP With the proper Micro-Mesh you can probably also do it yourself. It's not hard; it just requires some patience.
sbrebrown Well, I got extra patience. Keep rocking. Cheers from Colombia.
Thanks for a really useful and helpful video. I like other I am sure are always afraid to tough and reach for the holy grail in case we go too far and do not know how you remedy what we have done, thank called knowledge or expertise. Thanks.
Is it ok to use feeler guages instead of the brass sheets or does it need to be brass?
feeler gauges are fine too.
On the first day of Christmas I imagine you playing with all the pens you received as pressies!
I've been watching too many Carry On films: kept hearing innuendos in this vid :)
Does over-shimming cause baby's bottom? I think my Parker 45 has baby's bum, but I've never attempted to smooth its nib.
Merry Christmas, happy birthday to Jesus, Stephen, make a separate video on how to make a pen dry. That appears to be trickier than making a pen wet. You made working with nib look easy, it is not easy, and very easy to get it wrong and ruin the nib.
Plastic is more prone to "cutting" when scraped with a shim or knife edge. Ebonite is easier to "scrape away" with the edge of a knife or shim.
Thank you, sir; much appreciated.
You're welcome!
Hi and thank your for amazing video ! Sorry bother you but i am not able in find the stuff that you use to fix the pens. Can you please give me some hints to find it.
Thank you !!
Check richardspens.com.
Thnks so much ! Looks like in the 3th city of Italy (Naples btw) noone know what i am talking about.
Another question please. I have just bought a Sapporo F nib. Is awesome but the ink is very little in the ink cartridges and in Italy cost 5 $ for 10 a box. There are any compatible one bit cheap ?
Stefano Francescon Sailor cartridges are proprietary, so you can only use Sailor cartridges in Sailor pens. If you buy a converter, you can use bottled ink and that is a lot cheaper.
Ty a bunch
Merry belated Christmas to you!!! xoxxooo!
Nice tutorial! Thank you and merry christmas!:)
ps.......your tines are also bent too much. Lots of problems with that pen
When are you going to upload reviews of the pens I sent you?
Get the k and s shims off amazon
Sounded like you said, "I don't chew on all my pens" Of course it is early here...
thanks for being on the web. You are one of a few go to guys for my "reliable Pen information and instruction". Please tell the professor Hello for me. His Scotland yard hat is the Bomb!
Thank you, I'm glad you're enjoying the videos! The Professor replies, "Ah, there you are. Hat? What hat? Do I wear a hat?"
Interesting video..thanks.
"Re-locating the crack" had me laughing so hard...
Thanks
Do you have an account on The Fountain Pen Network? If you do, can I add you as a friend?
I'm liking what I see. 8^)
C'est bon...
I believe some people do not celebrate or like Christmas, therefore I would believe it would be polite to disregard such information in consideration of those people. But, if you simply do not care, then that is your choice. But anyways, I do appreciate the educational section of your video, in which I believe I may find such knowledge useful.
What's With Creepy annoying intro lol ???
could you speak german? ^^
I do speak German.
fake accent good try
+David Matthews I certainly can't tell. Where do you live? (said the Yank)