RPM A-Arms - V4 Vs V5/EXB - Conversion TIPS
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ต.ค. 2021
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RPM A-arms v4 vs Stock A-arms - Hope this break down was helpful for ya!
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SPRING INFO... READ BELOW
FYI - This company has changed over to MWcomponents, they may require you to make a $40 dollar minimum purchase, otherwise they tack on a 15 dollar surcharge. So to avoid that, consider to buy 8 springs, and maybe get yourself options.
Here is my latest suggestions on what to order
(For 15.5 plus pound Rigs)
10lb 1631 Springs - ORDER 4 (ATTN! - Require a Dremel to modify/flatten Ends!!!)
See vid - • Shock Spring Experimen...
Front and rear (Adjust collars to suit, since these are a bit long for the front)
1631 - x4 (Recommend M2C zero rebound caps, and 4000-5000cst diff fluid)
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(For 14 and below pound Rigs)
9.5lb springs
Front X2
72377S (Recommend M2C zero rebound caps, and 3000-4000cst diff fluid)
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8.2lb springs
Rear X2
72378S (Recommend M2C zero rebound caps, and 3000-40000cst diff fluid)
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hope that helps
You might as well buy all 8 because there’s a chance you might actually like the softer springs for your 15+ pound rig. - บันเทิง
It's funny I'm literally doing this to my v4 outcast 6s and I had no idea they changed the sway bar! Amazing content brother. So helpful, especially for the people that are new to the hobby.
Nice! Glad it found you in time👍
great video Randy! very informative. Thanks for posting!
🤩thanks🤩
Thank you, great vid!🤘🏻
You bet!
Excellent vid - well done, sir!
The rpm and droop screws is what I had and issue with for the 8s outcast. I went with the exb a arms, but I seen some dude make some sweet limit straps too. On my Revo I just put a silicone o ring inside the Shiite on the shaft to prevent it from bottoming out and never had an issue. Thanks for the info, 👊🏼👍🏼
Great Viedo. Very informative. I search this compare with the arms.
Thank you :-)
Great how to and informational video! 👍💯
Thanks😎👍
That's is such a great video buddy I didn't realise the difference between the v4/vs or the exb thanks brother 💪🤙👊😉
Anytime my man!
@@EastTactics how on earth do u afford all these parts and upgrades to make all these videos? Lol
TH-cam is a huge part of it.
@@EastTactics I'd love to b able to do all wat u do, but thanks to u brother since I've entered the 1st jump challenge I've gone from 50 subs to now having 115 subs and that is down to u so I thanks u so much u have helped my channel grow so much in the last 3 months or so, and because of the springs idea I got from u also lol I've now dared to send my exb 6s to heights its never been b4 lol that video is coming Sunday so thanks again bro and I look forward to the next video 👊🤙💪
That means a lot to me! I love hearing that!
You can fix the RPM A-arm to V5/EXB droop screw alignment problem by drilling new droop screw holes in the RPM arms in the same position as the V5 arms. I did this on my EXB by clamping the OEM arms to the RPM arms and using it like a template to drill through. I found it hard to line up exactly and keep the drill centred properly, and both sides ended up with holes in different spots. But it still worked out fine and I could still make the droop5o9yt symmetrical with screw adjustment. Also I think I only had to do this on the rear. I can't remember if I did the front or not, probably not because both sides look perfectly aligned from underneath, but I can't tell for sure without pulling bits off so I'll confirm that the next time I do some front end maintenance. But I definitely did the rears.
Yeah it’s just the rear end that has the issue. I seen 3sonsRC created a video on this tactic.
Do you worry that over time the new hole might strip into the stock hole, or do you think it will hold up?
Maybe tap a small filler screw into the original just to prevent that.
So what was your motivation for dropping back to the RPM arms?
Also… did you revert your rear shock tower back to the V4 version?
Do you need 6 pins (2 packs) as you'd use 2 for the rear (lower arm only) and 4 for the front arms (upper and lower arms)?
Also those caps for the fronts - do you only need those for 1 of the front arms? i.e. upper, not lower - or vice versa?
What pins are you referring to?
If your talking the hinge pin/bars (the pins/bars used to hold the actual A-arms to the (Front upper area (x2) and Front lower A,B blocks (x2) and (Rear C,D blocks x2) then yes you need 6.
but the front uppers are going to be different depending on if your rocking a v4/v5 uppper hinge pin block, or an EXB. I asume your upgrading the v4 to the beefier A-arms correct?
The upper hinge pins/bars themselves have threads on the v4/v5 that thread into the upper composite block (Which, I recomend you upgrade to Aluminum one (M2C is the best). but the EXB (that comes as RED aluminum) has unque pins, that take a set screw to hold in place.
S0…. your rig should allready have all these pins/bars… you dont need “new” ones in this a-arm conversation, unless your doing a scratch build.
Thats why I dont referrace these pins at all, as far as things you will need when upgrading from v4 arms to the beefier new v5/EXB's
Now Moving on...
The other pins I’m talking about in this video, that are infact NEEDED when coverting over to the v5/EXB arms, are rather, the little pins that hold your lower shock in place.
You only need a total of 4 of these, shock pins. The Pack I reference in the description comes with 4.
Lastly - the Red caps are only for the lower front arms…. and actually if you really want to save a penny… they are not even needed.
you can install without them. Probably better without them anyway, as without them, your dog bones insert a full mm deaper into the cup. Which is a good thing.
if you DO want them, cuz they look cool, and perhaps add a touch of strength to the ends, I’d still drill the hole in them out bigger so the ball cup rod, tightens past it.
Hope this helps my man!
If I have a v5 but want to put the m2c v4 shock tower on do you know if it would be compatible with the v5 as well as an aluminum wing mount addition?
Yes, after installing the v4 shock tower, just run the Shocks to the outer hole now in the A-arms.
Regarding the Aluminum wing mount, if you want to use one you can, in either set up. However Aluminum wing mounts, im my opinion are better when left flexible.
I dropped a video not too long ago regarding a mod for the 3DRC wing mount. To date, that’s my favorite wing mount set up.
@@EastTactics ok awesome, thank you!
Merry Christmas
Great video!
I’m new to hobby and trying to understand
I have a unused m2c v4 chassis
I’m going to use for my first build
I ordered the m2c v4 rear tower.
And I ordered the m2c v5 Front tower
Will that be ok to use those together
Thank you
Absolutely, the front tower variation doesn’t matter. And the version for chassis is great because it’s got the larger footprint in the back for those droop screws no matter which arms you’re running with. And the V4 tower from MTC is a tank, even with the elongated ears.
Thank you so much!
I was told I would need the v4 rear shock tower to make everything work for this v4 chassis
Is that the case or would the v5 rear shock tower work for this v4 chassis
Sorry for so many questions 😁
Just trying to get this right the first time
Thanks
I have the v5 which comes with the exb lower control arms. My main issue is my front passenger side dog bone keeps popping out of the drive cup. I’ve heard that the v4 RPM control arms help with this because they allow more flex. All I know is I’m tired of replacing chewed up drive cups. Do you have any insight into this issue? Most of what I’ve seen it seams like it’s happening a lot on exb models /V5 (which has exb control arms). Should I just get the v4 rpm arms or is there some other fix I haven’t found?
I haven't had that problem with v5s or exb but I haven't pushed them or done extreme bashing (sending) , yet lol I have had that in the past happen , with v4s , push arms all way up to see what you working with , usually taking that washer out behind the pillar ball is enough , other tips I've read are ordering bump stops , from losi I forget which rc but they install them on alot of there shocks so just make sure for a similar size shock and shaft or go to arrma forum , im sure you see a remedy there . A cheap way doing bump stop is using piece fuel line , your drive shafts should be straight if ones bent that dosen't help , you can try setting droop and spring tension also , its happening when the shock bottoms out . Last but least don't do this without doing tips above but if it persist I would file a mm or 3 off face where the pillar ball threads in .
@@paulclancy2404 great tips!!!
@@paulclancy2404 Thank you for your reply. Those are all promising options! I will experiment with these over the winter and see if I can’t get this eliminated. Thank you much!
@@stevensaid2200 no problem, happy rc ing 😆
I have my front set of rpm arms on my v5 they work good and I have the rear set of rpm arms waiting for me to install.... well they where back to the store for a return
Yeah the front ones will work fine, and if you want to do a little modification you can make the rpm ones work watch this video from 3sonsRC.
th-cam.com/video/66AsPW2qxN0/w-d-xo.html
8:55 So if I switched over to the V5/EXB arms. The front top A arms, do I need to change out the pin that goes into the arm as well? Or can I continue to use the stock v4 top arm pins?
The pins that lock in the shocks, need to be changed over to the V5/EXB variant. The ones that are in the bag at the point you bookmarked. They are different then the v4 pins.
Regarding the actual hinge pins that go through the upper a arms and thread into the upper hinge pin block. So long as you have the stock v4upper hinge pin block, you’re fine. However, if you upgrade to the V5/XB upper hinge pin block then you would need to get the v5/EXB pins because they are captured pins by a grub screw that screws in vertically down through the red anodized upper hinge pin block
@@EastTactics So the top ones would be able to remain the same? I do plan on getting the M2C hinge pin blocks all the way around as well. I run the EXB bumper, so I know which A block I need.
But as for the upper/inner hinge pin block from M2C, with the V5 upper A arms and that upper/inner hinge pin block from M2C, would I still be fine with the stock pins? The ones that locate the top A arms.
I plan on staying with v4 shock towers and eventually upgrading those to M2C as well. I'm not sure if being on the v4 shock towers would create any compatibility issues.
I know I have to buy the front sway bar for the rear and that's really the only difference in that regard if you stay on the V4 shock towers with V5 arms.
Please don't feel rushed to reply to this by the way! I feel bad for pouring out all these questions and I know it can get confusing.
Actually, if you pick up the M2C upper hinge pin block. It’s only compatible with the V4 pins that go through the upper a arms. It also comes with retainer pieces to prevent them from coming out. To me that’s better than the V5/XB, red anodized upper hinge pin block, so you’re good keeping your V4 pins in either case whether or not you keep your v4 composite upper hinge pin block or switch over to the M2c variant.
If you’re switching all of your a arms over to the V5/EXB a arms you can choose to run either the V4 or the newer rear shock tower but depending on which one you run. Will determine which holes to use in those thicker rear arms. Just put the old a arm side-by-side with the new ones. And you’ll see which hole to use. 🤜🤛
I installed the RPM A-arms (#81602 & #81572: V5/EXB) on my Arrma Kraton 6S V5. Now the drive shaft sits directly above the screw that releases the shock pin mount, making it really difficult (nearly impossible) to access a screw that I’d need frequently. I’ve searched online and I haven’t seen anyone else suffering from this issue.
Did I do something wrong installing this? How would I fix this?
Send me pics to my em ail. Find it in description or in the “about” section of my channel
Great info Brother. Also want to mention, I tried using the EXB Arms on the v4 chassis but the arms hit the ears. Basically there would be no need to set droop. You'd be stuck with just the travel to the ear. Has anyone else had this experience?
Interesting, I’ve actually got a full set on standby for whenever I break the RPM ones. So I guess I’ll see first hand whenever that time comes. But I didn’t know there was an issue. I’m not exactly keen to the idea of not being able to set my own droop exactly where I want to.
And you’re sure you don’t have the rear arms upside down flipped over and on the wrong side?
Hmmm? 🤔
Thanks for watching, hope you subbed! Or are a long time scriber 😆
@@EastTactics ok I scribed lol. I'm just not the scribing type lol. But I did u got me lol. I don't think they were backwards but I'll double-check. The old kraton chassis I'm referring to could be an older version.
Lol, I love it. Thanks brother!
can you put the v4 chasse on the exb and use all the parts from the exb?
Absolutely… the V4 chassis is identical to the v5 and Exb chassis… except in one way. It has larger wings for those droop screws. So in my opinion it’s actually slightly better.
Dam thanks I was stripping down kraton to build on swb v5 chassis I beileive my kratons a v4 , v4 first version with t2t brace ?
Both V4 & V5 come with the tower to tower brace. But ya, sounds like you have the V4. Which arms do you have?
@@EastTactics i have rpm arms , definitely the v4 the chassis seen better days been totaled and I just hammered it out but I realize it's probably why I keep bending front drive shaft . I've been ordering extra parts from jennys with the intention using v5 chassis , I also have the original outcast chassis not bent but well used lol , im still making a t2t brace a actual one bolted to each tower really streathens the rigs , I only bent kraton bc I landed on cement water fountain
Splurge for the M2C chassis… it’s a must have
You can completely remove the t2t brace
@@EastTactics I should have from the start went with m2 chassis , probably would've saved in long run 500 for a arrma and 100 for m2 chassis was only yesterday free fun compared to now 😆, uk how it is when you have a collection can't put 1000 into all of em , My understanding? V4 chassis we can use with exb and v5 arms , just can't use the rpm arms if going use exb towers and the v5 chassis has to be used with v5 or exb arms bc of the ears being shorter . Feels like horizon marketing why wouldn't they keep ears same so all universal , im going order from mitch but im going want use on one my newerb arrmas , how about the kraton exb chassis same deal , the ears are shorter , im going watch again I was driving sorry if you already covered , thanks for your help ,
Anytime👍
M2C built the v5 variant chassis to match the stock v5. So yeah the rear end has those slightly smaller wings that are mostly built for the EXB arms.
I agree maybe down the road MTC will simply just make the V5 version with slightly bigger wings. I’m sure they are aware of the issue, and if they weren’t then I know they are now. Avery himself replied in this video. Lol
So our older models we can only use on older chassis rebuilding
Opposite. The older chassis is compatible with all arm types. And the older rear shock tower is also compatible with all arm types.
If you convert your V4 chassis to a v5 then pay close attention in the rear regarding your droop screws. Stock V4 arms you might be fine, especially if you’ve got button head droop screws. RPM though… you’ll want to completely move the hole location of the droop screws. 3sonsRC has a vid on this mod.
Thanks brother , I was about ask you exactly that , uk how is have collection and want use all suplus parts , mitch parts are works of art just I don't want to abuse when we build em nice you seemed find nice balance your rcs look gr8 thanks again this is video I needed to see , I chec out 3son on droop screw mod
Any stuff off the front of v5 to add to v4 to run v5 arms?
Nope…Just make sure when you pick up the V5 arms that you also pick up the red anodized caps as well as the pins for the shocks. Having the V4 body just means you’ll have a nice big foot wing for those droop screws.
I do recommend m2c droop screws to.
@@EastTactics yeah, i have all the m2c stuff. I tried the v5 arms but something wouldn't fit right. Im using the hot racing hubs also. Idk ill have to try again. Have you put the fronts on yours yet?
I picked up the conversion kit but I’m waiting for my rpm arms to break. And they just won’t break. No I haven’t yet, but I was never questioning there being an issue until now. Can you give me more details about what felt off?
One thing to keep in mind sometimes people put the upper arm of the pair on backwards or in reverse. And this screws up All kinds of things.
@@EastTactics heck that may have been it im not sure, i tried when the v5 first came out. I know the front pillow ball studs are different part numbers but it prolly is because its a newer version i dont know. I really cant remember, will try again once i get thru these stock v4 arms. Took the rpm ones off because the rear droop screw even the m2c ones barley hit the ear of chassis. Didn't like that. I have the newer updated chassis.
Great channel bro, you really help out. I go back on your old videos when im wrenching to help lol. Good stuff. Keep it up! A lot of people that make videos lack on the wrenching part. And with you having the v4 and upgrading it really helps us. Im still having issues with stripping the crown gear and input. Maybe i shimmed it right this time lol. Haven't tested it. 🤝
no wonder .............. i switch over to rpm for my k8 exb and didn't understand what was wrong till now tanks broman!
Anytime my man!!👍😝😎
Hey east tactics I just uploaded my uncut video of ur jump challenge plz check it out broman thanks for ur support again
P.s. I know the challenge is over with I just wanted to show everyone the uncut version didn't want to fill your playlist with a 10min video lol 🤣👍 thanks again man !
I just got done watching it, I loved it. Just goes to show how much you invested in doing an amazing take. Lots of Carnage
@@EastTactics thanks man highly appreciate it