I'm an ASE Master Auto tech and a fastener metallurgist for a major automotive OEM. I see this argument against using anti-seize on all sorts of fasteners and threaded joints all the time and it's absurd every time. Yes, adding a thread lubricant to a joint and then torqueing to the dry spec can damage something. So DON'T use the dry torque when adding a thread lubricant! By the way, I always use copper anti-seize on spark plug thread and have had great results with that.
@elektro3000 Is there a reason you prefer using copper anti-seize instead of aluminum? I've been using aluminum for over 35 years with no problems. I'm just curious why you prefer it. Maybe I'll start using too.
@@bernardocisneros4402 In threaded applications, the grease tends to squeeze out from surfaces where the threads make contact and leave the suspended metal particles behind. Copper has the highest electrical conductivity out of all the commonly available anti-seize formulations (copper, aluminum, nickel) and the spark plugs work by passing electricity through the core, across the gap, back into the threaded shell, and finally back to ground through the cylinder head threads. At least theoretically, copper particles squeezed between the spark plug threads and cylinder head threads should create the least electrical resistance, resulting in the highest possible spark current and minimize the localized heating in the threads at the contact point, which can encourage thread galling. Aluminum is also highly conductive, so it should work great as well. Nickel is the least conductive, so while it should work just as well to prevent thread galling during installation/removal and to prevent corrosion, it would not offer as much improvement in conductivity compared to dry threads.
I've seen spark plug specs as hand tight + quarter turn. Wouldn't that be the same tension regardless thereby nullifying the excessive torque argument?
Yeah I think the problem is people tend to use too much anti-seize on threads, all you need is a film or it not a whole lot of it. I like the copper anti-seize for spark plugs as well because the copper conducts really well in that application. Also when it comes to aluminum cylinder heads I tend to be a little neurotic about stripping the threads in the head so I tend to bottom them and then just give them a little bit more than that but not much. The factory torque values are fine, but I've seen people strip the threads using torque wrenches as well, I tend to go by feel with aluminum.
I have been using anti-seize on plugs for 50 years, and never had a problem. Without ant-seize, you stand a good chance of striping the threads on your air-cooled VW.-resulting in a repair or replaced head.
manufactures recommend anti seize only on the uncoated black oxide threads...these new coatings that are siver in color dont require it from nkg NGK spark plugs feature trivalent plating. This silver or chrome-colored finish on the threads is designed to provide corrosion resistance against moisture and chemicals. The coating also acts as a release agent during spark plug removal. NGK spark plugs are installed at the factory dry, without lubrication or anti-seize. Anti-seize can act as a lubricant, altering torque values up to 20 percent, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage and/or metal shell stretch. Thread breakage can sometimes involve removing the cylinder head for repair. Metal shell stretch changes the heat rating of the spark plug and can result in serious engine damage caused by pre-ignition. Do not use anti-seize or lubricant on NGK spark plugs. It is completely unnecessary and can be detrimental.
50 years here as well. No problems. I'm light on tightening them to the point that an unscheduled stop at a garage on a road recently got me a lecture on tightening plugs as they were found to be torqued too loose. I've never lost one. And if I did...big deal. I'd put another one in. I love how they come out so easily after 100,000 miles. I think the risk of breaking a rusty plug on extraction, especially 4x4s living in damp places, is greater than over wrenching it on install. Just tighten them from Tight 'nuff to Good 'nuff.😅
Ever since the first time I put a spark plug in an aluminum head on VWs, I have used anti-seize on every single plug thread. Always have hand tightened using "muscle memory" torque. I am over 60 and have never encountered the problems mentioned here. What I have encountered have been spark plugs practically fused to the cylinder head, where I had to soak the spark plug cavity 24 hours, filled with penetrant oil before I could begin to work the spark plug loose without breakage. Why?.... because someone couldn't be bothered to use anti-seize. PS: don't get excess anti-seize near oxygen sensors elements; it can permanently foul them. If someone is over tightening spark plug threads, the problem is the mechanic, not the anti-seize.
@@rickdeckard1075your comment is irreverent. If you've had success doing something for many years, then that method is one of the correct ways to do it. The experts use trial and error to find ways of doing things just like anyone else. Don't be afraid of using YOUR brain instead of relying on someone else to think for you.
Irrelevant! 67yr collecting WISDOM here! Thanks! Only heard, heat transfer could be interfered w/. .007°or .00007 secs Aint much! Us big 2strk boys stayed away too. Thoughts please!
Never had a problem with it on spark plugs and I also never torque the spark pugs to specifications. I just tighten the spark plug by hand until it seats and just a little more with the ratchet and socket. Good enough for my truck and family sedan in normal driving. No problems in decades.
ASE Master and GM certified Tech for last 15 years. Living in a high corrosion climate, have always used anti seize and always will. Never been a problem, and my personal vehicles are serviced till 200K.
In small engines, especially snowblowers I could not disagree more. Regardless of the spark plug brand… I have seen significant corrosion issues due likely to the harsh environment a snowblower engines are exposed to. In ALL small engines I use anti-seize and an extra careful when tightening.
Agree! Try salt water applications that don't get serviced often enough. I have several times a year a boat with the spark plug shell rusted off or rusted so bad the porcelain blows out. On some inboards and stern drives the plugs are hard enough to get to let alone accessing to extract the remnants of the plug. If antiseize was used it helps the extraction tremendously. It takes very little so just don't get it on the ceramic of either end. I prefer the squeeze tube. The mess is easier to control. By the way. If you don't understand how to tighten spark plugs maybe you shouldn't be installing them because if you do the kind of damage this guy is talking about maybe you should stick to your desk job. I also always use this on stainless steel fasteners with nylock nuts. They tend to gall when using nyloc nuts even when using grease but this stuff totally prevents it.
I do too. Use common sense when tightening. Yes, using never seize is like having some grease on the threads which needs some compensation when torquing down. I've never had a plug loosen up on any of my small engines after using just a gentle pull with a standard ratchet wrench. Same goes for wheel lug/bolts.
@@curtchase3730 ' I've never had a plug loosen up ' Exactly. Used sparingly it's fine. The expansion/contraction cycles and it not being stuck much later are far more important than anything else, and you generally have some form of crush washer for seal. The odds of it having a problem of loosening are very, very low vs how often some plugs and heads have corrosion problems. I wouldn't just use gobs and gobs of it, but a light amount to help ensure it doesn't corrosion weld over time is fine.
I'm 72, retired auto tech over 30 years experience, I enjoy reading about car stuff, Always used anti- seize. I still do my own work! Always glad to learn something Thanks for everyone's tips and comments Always an education!
I'm 71 & agree 100% with u. Nothing wrong with a thin coat at the top of the threads. Using anti seize is essential if u live in the rust belt. I've been doing for decades.
My procedure on sparkplug replacement, where the threads of the block and plug are dissimilar metals, would be to apply a small dab of anti-seize to the threads on the plug, but not closer to the electrode tip than about 5mm. I would then finger tighten the plug until the gasket just comes into light contact and then slowly tighten with a wrench until the washer just crushes, where you feel the tightening torque beginning to increase more. This should be close to the correct clamping force on the plug to the head, even though the tightening torque is probably below the specified value. On sparkplugs without washers, I would simply torque to about 70% of the median value of the recommended torque range. I've been working on engines in cars and motorcycles since I was a kid in the mid-1960s and have never had a problem with stripped threads or seized sparkplugs. I did have to spray some penetrating oil into the sparkplug wells on a couple of aluminum-head engines and let it soak for a few hours as insurance against stripping the threads on a stubborn removal. I often use a long fat-tube straw as a guide and starting tool, especially on aluminum -head engines, as it is easy to cross-thread those things if not careful. Swabbing the sparkplug threads in the block with a very long Q-tip that has been soaked in WD-40 has worked well for me in cleaning the threads and having a smooth installation. I also blow out the sparkplug well with a shot of compressed air before removing the plug, to prevent the introduction of debris into the cylinder. I will also make sure that the gasket surface on the block is clean by wiping it also with the Q-tip.
This pretty much my exact procedure, and exact results. The only plugs I have ever had cause thread damage or broke the plug, was in an aluminum head where no anti-seize was used when installed.
Maybe it’s different with today’s engines but aside from my mid-2000’s Benz, all of the engines I work on are 80’s Japanese motorcycles with aluminum heads or 60’s American engines with cast iron. I always use anti-seize on spark plugs. I’ve never over torqued a spark plug and I’ve never had to heli-coil a plug hole either. I use silver anti-seize and it takes just a little bit to prevent the threads from being dry. Aluminum, steel, heat cycles and condensation are the perfect environment for the aluminum to fester. I’ll keep doing what’s worked for me for the past +40 years.
You couldn't be MORE wrong, especially when installing a spark plug into an aluminum cylinder head. Anti-seize does not hurt the grounding, and when installed at the proper recommended torque the plug will tighten to a higher value when the head gets hot. Ask anyone that tunes racing engines and you'll learn that Anti-sieze is used so you don't damage the threads in a head while removing them for spark plug / fuel mixture checks. The key is to not use very much, it doesn't take much to be effective and save your cylinder head!
Iv been using anti seize for over 50 years and never had a problem. Specially on VW engines or engines with aluminum heads. I can speak for my experience. And I’ll keep using it.
I've personally seen with my own eyes a very popular Ford technician here on TH-cam use anti-seize on spark plugs on a Ford 5.4 2 valve engine. I personally have done it on my GM engines with no problems whatsoever. As others have mentioned here, you've got to have the proper feel of how far to tighten them and use caution to not overtighten them. I also use high-temp anti-seize on any exhaust components I assemble to help with possible future disassembly. Hell, I use the stuff everywhere!
I agree on all counts. When the plug bottoms out? Maybe an eighth of a turn? It definitely a ‘feel’ thing. When I do any other type of work I use Sil-Glide for fasteners. I do it for me or the next poor sap that has to work on it.
I've used anti seize on sparkplugs for 50 years and never once had an issue with a plug loosening, distorting or breaking. The problem with sparkplugs these days is that they are made out of substandard metals and torque values should be adjust accordingly.
The lubricant that is in anti- seize is 30 weight non detergent motor oil. It will migrate out of the compound and sit on top of the surface. If it does get to thick you can add a little more oil if you can find it. When torquing a fastener with anti - seize you need to use the lubricated torque spec. PS I have been using anti- seize on plugs for 40 years as a certified mechanic and I have never had any issues. A experienced mechanic can feel the proper clamping force on a fastener. I always tighten my fasteners by hand and then check them with a torque wrench to verify the torque. All the torque wrench does is measure the resistance of the threads not the clamping force of the fastener. Torque turn method is a better method to achieve proper clamping strength of a fastener by relying on the pitch of the thread to stretch the bolt to the proper clamping force.
At 74 years old, I was taught how to properly install spark plugs. Tighten until you "feel" the crush washer "crush", then stop. If you've ever had a spark plug twist off in the head, upon removal, you might consider some kind of lubricant.😁
I agree with everyone below. Anti-seize is definitely an advantage. Plus the plug will not bind up on dry threads and give you an uncorrect torque reading.
I will use nothing but nickel anti-seize on spark plugs. The problem is people over due it with anti-seize. A tiny amount on threads is enough. Not excess. I don't disagree with the over torquing. That anti-seize acts as a lube. If there is a range of value for torque go to the minimum. Even if over torqued as you suggest, it still should be within the upper limit range of values.
In aviation on jet engines we use a small bit milk of magnesium NON FLAVORED (Magnesium hydroxide) on the threads of the igniters before installing them. In fact I do know the TO's on the F-4 GE 79 engines it specifically calls out for it.
I agree with most of the information you gave Sir. One thing I have done since I have worked on gas engines is use 30 weight non-detergent motor oil on the threads. Just a little bit on my index finger while rolling the threads around the spark plug. This was shown to my by a old mechanic and I never ever had a problem removing the plugs. This is especially important in the new engines which have a very light inch pounds of torque specifications. PEACE FELLA TOO.
I could not dissagree with this more. I have been a licenced tech for decades now and this notion of over torquing and breaking plugs is batshit crazy! Also has little to do with the reasoning behind ant sieze on plugs and or what type should be used. This guy is wrong.
Thanks for the input. I have no problem with anyone disagreeing with me. Some topics will do that. As a tech myself, I've seen many bulletins or topics that I do the same with. In this video, I just present some facts for thought. It is a fact that applying any oil, lubricant, or anti-sieze to any fastener will change the torque applied by up to 20%. It can also create heat transfer and electrical conductivity concerns. Also, many spark plug manufacturers including NGK and Autolite are against the use of anything applied to the threads of their spark plugs. Take a read of this article that has the bulletin from NGK attached to it www.driven2automotive.com/blog/why-you-shouldnt-use-copper-grease-when-installing-spark-plugs/ Also, I personally have never read instructions from the vehicle manufacturer that instruct a tech to apply anti-size prior to installation. Playing devil's advocate though, I have heard that Honda and Subaru instruct that's it's OK to apply anti-sieze. Subaru does tell you to lower the torque setting by 1/3 when installing though. Lastly, I think some of us that have been wrenching for a long time applied anti-sieze to spark plugs since those plugs did not have the newer special coatings on the threads and many may not even know that newer plugs have these special coatings. Either way, I'm not telling you what you're doing is wrong. Just some food for thought about the newer technologies on today's spark plug. Thanks again for watching.
@@joekeene6718 look. I appreciate your intentions. But here is an education for you from one very experianced tech to another. You know full well the notion of someone actually breaking off a plug in a head because they added and i dont care if its arp bolt prep. But because they added a lube to the thread changing rotational friction altering the tightness of the plug is nutz! Unless someone is already very neglegent and applies way to much rotational torque to the body of the plug to begin with. Will lube be able to contribute to plug body breakage. You know that and so do i. So i am sorry. But imo. Your comments are heavily embelished at the least. Not all head mediums and materials are the same and not all plugs are coated or use the same coatings and or processes. There for no one solution of installing a plug with dry threads can be articulated as correct. As an example. Nickel and copper antisieze have very different properties for a reason. Copper as example is a very efficient conductor of electricity as well as heat. In both cases that can be a far greater advantage than having to worry about if you lube the threads suddenly the plug body will tear in half. That's just silly. Anyone in the trade with feel will have no problem installing a plug with a reasonable amount of final tightness or load to the plug body regardless of what the threads have been in contact with. Nickel antisieze is also required in some cases depending on the medium and particular plug used as well as application it is in. Anyone who makes a blanket statement that plugs need go in dry has not extracted a siezed plug out of a ford or aluminum head that suffered a leaky head gasket or a plug thats been in for 150,000 km. Thats real. So again. No disrespect. But your statements are wrong. Its important people understand these things to prevent large repair bills or missfires and so on.
@@mohanperformance.enginerd.1308 just let me say one thing you're a dip s*** for even saying anything back to this guy I'm just now finding out the reason my car won't run right it's because anti seize is making my car misfire and no I did not know about the new coatings on spark plugs so this guy that you are bashing we need more like them to let us know when new things are out there so maybe you should keep your comments to yourself
For years, the car makers recommended using anti seize on spark plugs in aluminum heads, while the spark plug makers were against using anti seize, because they claimed it affected the spark plugs' heat ranges. I have seen some AC Delco spark plugs come with anti seize on them in the box since then though.
I started back in "the day" using hi temp antiseize due to dissimilar metals, and spark plugs seizing in heads. Still use it "very light light coating" and never have trouble. I've seen too many spark plugs broken off in heads, but never mine. Call me old/antique, but what works under my eyes, over decades is hard to change. Cheers from Canada.
This is a debate that will continue long after all of us here watching this are gone. As a certified aircraft engine mechanic, we were taught a little dab'll do you and to dab a little on spark plug threads being careful NOT to get any on the lower 2 or 3 threads of the spark plug. And then we were taught to ALWAYS use a torque wrench on those plugs. So, to dab or not to dab, the debate goes on.
Been using copper anti-seize on spark plugs for decades. It's been the recommended procedure on Mercedes for as long as I can remember. Just reduce torque by 2-3 nm from dry spec. And anyone that has worked on 3v 5.4 Triton's will tell you how important anti-seize is on those plugs. Also recommended in marine applications.
With Iron heads there generally isn't a problem with a SMALL dab of nickel anti-seize IF you want. The problem is with Aluminum which is a less noble metal and will corrode more easily instead of the spark plug. You need to use either the same or similar material anti-seize as the head or a couple drops of oil. Most plugs these days are plated with zinc or some other less noble metal so that that becomes the sacrificial surface. I just a couple weeks ago changed the original plugs out of a GM Cadillac 3.6l and all 6 were installed BONE DRY. I mean BONE DRY. Some came out 'squeeky' and honestly I'm never comfortable putting things together dry. I used a couple drops of synthetic oil. I didn't have any aluminum AS on hand. I've been changing enough spark plugs over the decades I know how tight they need to be. Just because the factory doesn't do it doesn't mean it's not acceptable.
I would use if it is an aluminum thread on the head to use a stainless steel based never-seize with a temp rating of 2400 degree f rating .it can be purchased through Granger industrial supply. It,s pricy, at about $150.00 per quart. But worth it. it will work. .Then you won't have to suffer the busted knuckles garage syndrome. MISS PAULA WALACH-FORMER INDUSTRIAL ELECTRICIAN-CURRENT UNION MEMBER IBEW
@@paulawalach1770 There are specific anti-seize products for use on specific metals. You would NEVER want to use a 'stainless steel' or nickel based anti-seize on aluminum. It can cause a galvanic reaction and lead to the issue you are trying to avoid. The correct product is aluminum anti-seize which is white. It looks like white lithium grease.
I use it and always will. Most heads now days are Aluminum. Spark plugs are steel. Bad mix. The only thing I recommend is using a copper base anti seize. It gives you conductive properties and equal heat transfer.
Don’t be a tool. Stop using that impact gun. This is where I like to just use a socket and extension. Threading them in till I feel them touch and then use a ratchet to tighten them just right. Yes use anti seize.
I've been working on automobiles for over 45 years and always use anti-sieze on spark plugs. Never had any issues yet. I also work as a maintenance technician in the petrochemical industry. We assembled everything using anti-sieze, whether its in a hot or cold service. Reduce the torque by 25% and you'll have no problems. We have ANSI and API charts that give a dry torque spec, a wet (oiled) torque spec, and of course, a spec for using different grades of anti-sieze.
I work with marine outboard engines . The sticker on mercury says that when using engine i saltwater you should put antiseize product to the threads. I am putting just a light touch of quicksilver 101 grease and in 15 years never had an issue with any spark plugs i've done..
I've been using it since the mid '70's and never had any problems and never used a tork wrench eighter I've been playing with cars since I was 14 years old I have the feel for how tight it should be only time I used tork wrench is on engine rebuilding or major components like transmission and differential... Just snug the up just like an oil filter... And blow air around the spark plug before you attempt to remove them to remove dirt and crap so it doesn't fall into the combustion chamber...
i'm just a home mechanic but i have always applied anti- seize graphite grease to spark plugs especially on aluminum heads but careful about tightening. i always wondered how putting any grease on bolts going into blocks or heads affected the torque measurements and bolt stretch.
WRONG... Brodix heads requires use of Anti-seize for warranty... As a long-time machinist, I say yes to using it in moderation on anything with aluminum female threads, especially with heat and corrosion otherwise you will eventually cross-thread and ruin the hole. As far as torque, an experienced person has the feel for a tight plug with or without lube. Lose the torque wrench as it is text-book and not real-world. The seat or gasket washer don't get the lube and provide a secure ground..
Always use anti-sieze on spark plugs installed in aluminum cylinder heads. Never remove a spark plug from an aluminum cylinder head until the head is completely cooled off. Ford had spark plugs blowing out of Triton V8 cylinder heads because Ford did not use anti-sieze when they installed the plugs. The person replacing the spark plugs did so with the head still hot. Carbon builds up on the tip of the spark plug. When the plug gets backed out of the hole, the built up carbon on the tip chews up the threads. Anti-sieze helps prevent this. Whenever I replace plugs on a hot aluminum head, first thing I do is blow out around the spark plugs with compressed air. Then I will back the plug off about a half a turn. I'll put a generous amount of penetrating oil in each hole and let it set until the head completely cools off. The heat from the head will cause the penetrating oil to wick down past the threads and help aid in removing the plugs. It will also soften any carbon that may be on the tip of the plug.
It has been my experience in the past that plugs tended to strip the treads out of the head. That was always my greatest fear when installing spark plugs. There was a time when anti-seize was essential or the plug would never come out (dissimilar metals). Fortunately, the plugs that I am replacing in my Honda have been in there so long that I will probably never do the job again.
This guy is wrong!! You don't want threads absorbing torque, thats insane, you want all the torque applied to the taper or crush washers. With todays aluminum heads you better use antiseize, especially with plugs lasting 100,000 now
Meh. The risk of over-torqueing by someone who knows what they are doing.... is relatively low compared to the amount of pain felt, if a plug seizes in place because you didn't put anti-seize on it. No thanks... after 40 years experience, I'll keep doing it my way.
I have worked industrial maintenance and engineer for decades. We had to use nickle anti-seize on extruder bolts due to the continuous high heat. I use copper anti-seize on spark plugs and O2 sensor threads. This makes a big difference on removing tapered seat spark plugs. I also use purple or low strength thread locker on all fasteners such as lug nuts because it will exclude water and prevent rust.
My experience with plugs and no-anti seize is that there is a good chance of stripping the thread when it comes time to remove it for the first time. You have Aluminum and Steel (a galvanic couple) then you are passing thousands of volts thru the thread. If you think about it, that is how an EDM machine works. The longer it stays in the engine, the more likely it is to seize in place. I use motorcycle chain lube on the threads. Don't use anything with copper in it, it will rot aluminum. I torque plugs by hand and on new plugs, I crush the washer flat. Having had a couple of plugs back out when installed to the correct torque, I don't trust doing it any other way. I understand the principle with the washer design. It is supposed to be self sealing, with the gas pressure coming by the threads and "inflating" the cavity in the washer. In reality, you just have a loose plug with poor electrical conductivity that is ready to back out and could already be misfiring. The carbon left in the gas path does act a little bit like anti-seize, so why not put some in.
@@UNITED2009100 My brother had an outboard motor on a boat used in the sea. The aluminum castings had copper in them. Water pin-holed the castings and was spraying out You should be good with cast iron heads.
I was tought eons ago in our shop class to use anti seize when similar metals are in contact. I've been using it ever since then and never an issue. Of course it effects the torque value - if you can't properly tighten a spark plug by hand, well...
If the torque setting is to turn 1/4 past contact to crush the washer, I cannot see how anti-sieze would affect that. I always used anti-sieze without any issues at all. In fact, it made the changing of plugs much easier. Anti-sieze compounds contain metals and are conductive. Grounding is no issue.
I have actually used high temperature bearing grease on spark plug threads for 45 yrs. Anti-sieze did not exist back in the day. Particularly on motorcycle engines and engines exposed to the elements. With alloy heads that repeatedly get wet, an electrolysis can occur between the two different metals that actually promotes corrosion. You do not have to be a brainiac to use a torque wrench or socket wrench, to know when a plug is securely tight. With any alloy head, if you go swinging off the wrench, you will strip the threads. I do enjoy it when the removal f spark plugs takes less than 10 minutes and the wiping of the plug aperture with a paper towel shows a clean, pristine thread in the cylinder head. I have heard what this guy is saying numerous times. I just like doing it my way.
Back in the 80's Champion plugs in a Chrysler aluminum head were very troublesome when trying to remove them. Right or wrong, Anti-seize prevented a lot of problems with damaged threads and plugs that wouldn't come out. Just a small amount does the job. I think people tend to use too much.
My experience with using aluminum based anti seize on engine parts that get hot is that the aluminum in it melts and seizes the part so it will not move. It in fact become a seize maker.
1st of all, you ONLY use 'aluminum anti-seize' on steel to steel/iron. If you have steel going into an aluminum casting, aluminum anti-seize doesn't give you galvanic protection. Autolite is trying to get mileage out of a special coating they use, but they won't foot the bill for redeeming a seized plug. A light touch of COPPER anti-seize on spark plugs IS A GOOD CALL. At worst, it won't hurt anything. Some of these modern cars use long thread plugs that are literally down in a hole. Moisture sits there, wicks into the threads by capillary action. Becomes 'electrolyte". A plated coating on SP threads partially scrapes off on first install. Use copper anti-seize on all spark plugs and O2 sensors. ALWAYS. Also, looks like a 5YO has been using that Alum AS by the looks of that brush at 1:09. Pitiful.
Krol oil is also an excellent anti seize in high heat areas. If you ever had to retread a head, you may want to use some copper anti seize from the tube on the first couple threads .
I have to agree with all this. I used motor oil on plugs and it caused oil to be sucked up into the plug well. This video is very rational and well presented.
Been using it on spark plugs for almost 50yrs with no ill effects. Especially on plugs with an unplated base like AC or cadmium like Champion. I do try to use only Autolite with the nickel-plated base. Never had to use a torque wrench either. Today's spark plugs last a lot longer than when I started wrenching. Longer time to allow corrosion.
back in the early 70's when I was getting serious about working on cars a mechanic told me when putting in new spark plugs put 2 drops of motor oil on the threads, no more and nothing else, no problems for 50+ years
In the Factory Lycoming engine manual for piston engine aircraft, it requires anti seize on the spark plug threads except the first two closest to the electrode. Evidently anti sieve does bad things inside the cylinder.
I've been using copper coat on spark plug threads all my long life. Torqued to mfg specs and never ever a problem. I see that using copper coat is actually better due to it's conductivity characteristics thus providing a better ground that a spark plug requires. I'm a firm believer that it's helpful all around when used on spark plugs.
As long as you keep it on the threads and not the tapered seat of the plug it will still make a good ground and still have the benefits of never pulling the threads out of your heads, especially on aluminum heads.
I'd rather tighten the sparkplug a little less to get the same desired effect plus the bonus of them not getting stuck or corroded. Tf is this video haha
Please consider research into recip aircraft standard practices. Always use correct type of spark plug anti-seize lubricant, and a new or properly annealed sealing washer EVERY time a spark plug is installed. Torque properly with a torque wrench of known calibration. Thank you for your time and attention.
As I see it as long as there's not a risk of something that needs to be grounded losing it ground, then use it. I've had oxygen sensors that I sure wish I'd used anti-seize. The heat cycles of the exhaust systems and the corrosion from road water spray can cause seizure problems.
I was shocked to see my 1962 motors manual said not to use anti-seize on spark plugs. With that said, I always use it. I put a little bit on the upper threads and on the gasket or seat also, in combination with some light oil and run the plug up and down by hand a couple times to make sure the threads are fully covered with a thin coat, while also trying to have minimal anti-seize exposed in the combustion chamber. Also I never use a torque wrench but rather go by feel. I once read in an old hot rod magazine that all threads should have something on them, and I always follow that rule when it’s something I care about, which definitely includes all spark plugs. I have had a very very difficult time removing spark plugs that clearly went in dry! Also the conductivity argument doesn’t make sense to me since aluminum/copper etc. that are in the anti-seize are better conductors than the steel spark plug itself, and certainly a better conductor than the corrosion that would otherwise form.
This guy is correct... If you're inexperienced and have no capacity for common sense, then don't use anti-sleeze on spark plugs. In fact ... Don't even raise the hood. Leave the work to a professional who knows there is never a one-sided fits all rule like this. (unlike the guy in this video)
It’s a paradox, the hypocrisy you can’t win if you don’t use it you run the risk of a spark plug seizing in the cylinder. If you do use it, you can’t go crazy you can only apply so much but understand a spark plug is not necessarily a moving item only when it’s put in and taken out.
I was always told antiseize can result in accidental overtightening and stripping threads in aluminum heads since it contains a super slick molybdenum, zinc or silicone grease base. A lot of heads are aluminum nowadays and manufacturers are advising not too apply it for that reason. A blanket one size fits all solution. It's not needed or recommended for aluminum. If you have iron heads there shouldn't be a problem. But as stated new plug threads are coated and any corrosion that happens won't result in rust welding. It will be more of a powder I believe that's what the old schoolers are trying to convey. Old uncoated plugs plus iron heads can cause rust welding.
Been twisting wrenches for over 60 years with many , . . . sparkplug replacements all kinds of metallurgy and thread seizures and Helicoil installs Until - - - " Neverseize" ! Works fine , a little finger swipe on the threads (only) it is a conductor, a gentle torque and good to go ! No failures either,
Sorry but, you'd have to be an idiot to torque a plug enough to cause it to break or strip the threads out. I have always used anti-sieze on plugs. I dont cake it on.... just a thin film on the threads. Especially on aluminum heads!!
Good video with good points. Most engineers would agree with you. Mechanics in the rust belt..... Probably not. Also, I respect you for leaving the comments section open.
Wrong wrong wrong... mechanic since 1976, seen dozens of cylinder heads were damaged because of some one not using anti seize. Seen zero damaged from the use of it. Someone is full of book smarts and no experience.
Back in the early 70s, I had a corrosion-siezed plug on a small block Chevy. Champion plug, apparently 2-piece construction - broke off and left half of it in the head. Been using nickle-based anti-sieze ever since.... don't want to go through that ever again.
I'm a home garage guy, and what I've done for many years, is to apply just a very thin smear of anti seize spread on the full length of the threads with a tooth brush. I found that too much, and the stuff will cook into a taffy that makes the plug difficult to remove again. I never thought to try to torque spark plugs. New plugs with new ring I spin down to hand snug, and then an additional 1/2 turn. Used plugs with an already crushed ring, 1/4 turn.
Absolutely especially on aluminum heads! Don't overdue it ! Cop a slip is my brand of choice. I use a mixture of extreme pressure lube mixed with cop a slip for general nut and bolt assembly ie: suspension, steering, body bolts.
I think the real problem with anti-seize is the user sometimes has no idea what the chemical compounds are in the lubricant. I believe the horror stories come from corrosion due to corrosive garbage in a lubricant. I've only seen once where the lubricant actually corroded the plugs really bad. Usually no problem. However, I just go with the original engineers who designed an engine who usually don't recommend lubricant. That doesn't mean you can't if you have a specific reason for using it though.
my mechanic, Asian cars, owner of multiple shops, master at his trade without a doubt, i watched him pop a strip of antiseize on plugs and go to town. these were Denzo plugs, coated etc from memory. He said always put just a bit on, not much, as it will seep down onto the plug and cause issues if you gob it on. down spec the torque? i am not sure if he did but from my industrial experience, thread torque ratings always change vrs the type of thread dope you use so i would seriously consider taking the spec down to the greased spec which should be listed in your plug torque specs.
I started using copper cote anti seize lubricant on spark plug threads 35 years ago. (just a light coating). Since then, I have never had an issue with a difficult to remove spark plug. As well, I have never had an issue with spark plug loosening up either. Prior to that, there would be an occasion when I encountered difficulty in removing a spark plug. I replace spark plugs this way on all my cars, trucks, tractors, lawn mower engines, etc.
I’d rather be able to get the old plug out and save the threads instead of battling it and then have crusty threads or need to chase threads and risk metal entering the cylinder.
Retired aircraft mechanic,I only used it once on spark plugs. My 2000 Montero sport. Recently I changed the plugs. #2 I thought it would not come loose. The plugs are supposed to set at .043 they were at.085.
I worked as a mechanic in the 70's and Autolite plugs were the worst offenders for corroding and getting stuck in heads. Later, I bought a car that had Autolite plugs and had a plug fail {no continuity) while in service for the first time. I have always wondered if the antiseize increased resistance between the plug and the head, but preferred not to risk a seized plug.
This is a remarkably simplistic argument... Clearly, the 'reduced torque requirement' argument is correct (of course anti-sieze compounds are lubricating), so it makes sense to determine what an appropriate torque value is when using an anti-seize compound! Likewise, it's obviously important to only use a compound that has good conductivity - so use one! Anyone who's had corroded threads fail in an Aluminum cylinder-head, can tell you about the value of anti-sieze...
Been using copper antiseize for spark plugs and dropping torque specs by about 10% for vehicles and small engines for 25+ years and never have had a problem. Just changed the plugs in my 332,000 miles 4.0L inline 6 Jeep Cherokee for the 5th time. About every 60,000 miles.. My 2004 Ranger with 3.0L V6 246,000 miles is coming due for its plugs. Have had it since 2006 and less than 25,000 miles. I do 95% of my own repairs and all the preventative maintenance on all three of my regular vehicles and several motorcycles.. Tools can get expensive but nowhere near as expensive as a hourly shop rate if you can't work on your own stuff..
Well, o2 sensors come with anti seize pre installed, or includes a pacl of anti seize. Spark plugs do not. Therefore, i do not add anti seize to spark plug threads.
Have been using anti seize on all aluminum head engines for around 40 years and no issues. It prevents galled threads in aluminum heads from dissimilar metals corroding and making plug removal rough. Yes you just torque less as with any faster that is lubed vs dry. Head bolts being an exception to the rule.
Just did a spark plug change on a 2011 Toyota Tacoma V6. The plugs were seizing on the way out and felt scary. Had to screw in and out to get them to release. And these plugs were the so call coated metal ones. Used antiseize on the new plugs and I don't use a torque wrench. I got by turns per the spark plug manufacturer. For instance these had the crush washer. 1/2 to 2/3 from hand tight is recommended. Did that and the engine purrs like a kiltten.
Anyone who worked on cars in the '90s know that if you don't use antisieze you'll pull the threads out of the aluminum heads. If you're only argument is that you have to reduce the torque when you apply an antisieze. Then use antisieze and reduce the torque. Zinc and copper which are the base of antisieze, are good conductors.
The only time I have ever used anti-seize is when the thread on an aluminum head has been previously damaged from over torque (or thread locked from excessive carbon build up), even then it is vary sparing just to run the plug loosely in and out a few times. I typical wipe off any excess before torquing the plug (see note below). > Over torquing pretty much everything is a common problem across the industry. Always they think, "Just that little bit more to be sure" and then it's stretched and busted threads for the next person :)
I just changed plugs on a 2014 Ford Explorer 3.5. Absolutely used anti-seize and torqued to 11 foot pounds. The key is to not overtorque the plug. Simple enough.
I'm an ASE Master Auto tech and a fastener metallurgist for a major automotive OEM. I see this argument against using anti-seize on all sorts of fasteners and threaded joints all the time and it's absurd every time. Yes, adding a thread lubricant to a joint and then torqueing to the dry spec can damage something. So DON'T use the dry torque when adding a thread lubricant! By the way, I always use copper anti-seize on spark plug thread and have had great results with that.
I agree using the copper antiseize where conductivity is needed.
@elektro3000 Is there a reason you prefer using copper anti-seize instead of aluminum? I've been using aluminum for over 35 years with no problems. I'm just curious why you prefer it. Maybe I'll start using too.
@@bernardocisneros4402 In threaded applications, the grease tends to squeeze out from surfaces where the threads make contact and leave the suspended metal particles behind. Copper has the highest electrical conductivity out of all the commonly available anti-seize formulations (copper, aluminum, nickel) and the spark plugs work by passing electricity through the core, across the gap, back into the threaded shell, and finally back to ground through the cylinder head threads. At least theoretically, copper particles squeezed between the spark plug threads and cylinder head threads should create the least electrical resistance, resulting in the highest possible spark current and minimize the localized heating in the threads at the contact point, which can encourage thread galling. Aluminum is also highly conductive, so it should work great as well. Nickel is the least conductive, so while it should work just as well to prevent thread galling during installation/removal and to prevent corrosion, it would not offer as much improvement in conductivity compared to dry threads.
I've seen spark plug specs as hand tight + quarter turn. Wouldn't that be the same tension regardless thereby nullifying the excessive torque argument?
Yeah I think the problem is people tend to use too much anti-seize on threads, all you need is a film or it not a whole lot of it. I like the copper anti-seize for spark plugs as well because the copper conducts really well in that application. Also when it comes to aluminum cylinder heads I tend to be a little neurotic about stripping the threads in the head so I tend to bottom them and then just give them a little bit more than that but not much. The factory torque values are fine, but I've seen people strip the threads using torque wrenches as well, I tend to go by feel with aluminum.
I have been using anti-seize on plugs for 50 years, and never had a problem. Without ant-seize, you stand a good chance of striping the threads on your air-cooled VW.-resulting in a repair or replaced head.
manufactures recommend anti seize only on the uncoated black oxide threads...these new coatings that are siver in color dont require it
from nkg
NGK spark plugs feature trivalent plating. This silver or chrome-colored finish on the threads is designed to provide corrosion resistance against moisture and chemicals. The coating also acts as a release agent during spark plug removal. NGK spark plugs are installed at the factory dry, without lubrication or anti-seize.
Anti-seize can act as a lubricant, altering torque values up to 20 percent, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage and/or metal shell stretch. Thread breakage can sometimes involve removing the cylinder head for repair. Metal shell stretch changes the heat rating of the spark plug and can result in serious engine damage caused by pre-ignition. Do not use anti-seize or lubricant on NGK spark plugs. It is completely unnecessary and can be detrimental.
30 years here. Never a problem.
50 years here as well. No problems. I'm light on tightening them to the point that an unscheduled stop at a garage on a road recently got me a lecture on tightening plugs as they were found to be torqued too loose. I've never lost one. And if I did...big deal. I'd put another one in. I love how they come out so easily after 100,000 miles. I think the risk of breaking a rusty plug on extraction, especially 4x4s living in damp places, is greater than over wrenching it on install. Just tighten them from Tight 'nuff to Good 'nuff.😅
@@stevest1300 depends on the engine, your time interval of anti-seize use is irrelevant
I hate dry threads.
Ever since the first time I put a spark plug in an aluminum head on VWs, I have used anti-seize on every single plug thread. Always have hand tightened using "muscle memory" torque. I am over 60 and have never encountered the problems mentioned here. What I have encountered have been spark plugs practically fused to the cylinder head, where I had to soak the spark plug cavity 24 hours, filled with penetrant oil before I could begin to work the spark plug loose without breakage. Why?.... because someone couldn't be bothered to use anti-seize. PS: don't get excess anti-seize near oxygen sensors elements; it can permanently foul them. If someone is over tightening spark plug threads, the problem is the mechanic, not the anti-seize.
your age is irrelevant, the specific engine/plug combination is the important variable.
Wrong; there is no substitute for experience, and you will learn this in time.@@rickdeckard1075
@@rickdeckard1075your comment is irreverent.
If you've had success doing something for many years, then that method is one of the correct ways to do it.
The experts use trial and error to find ways of doing things just like anyone else.
Don't be afraid of using YOUR brain instead of relying on someone else to think for you.
I'd take age and experience over youth and enthusiasm any day of the week. @@rickdeckard1075
Irrelevant!
67yr collecting WISDOM here!
Thanks!
Only heard, heat transfer could be
interfered w/.
.007°or .00007 secs
Aint much!
Us big 2strk boys stayed away too.
Thoughts please!
Never had a problem with it on spark plugs and I also never torque the spark pugs to specifications. I just tighten the spark plug by hand until it seats and just a little more with the ratchet and socket. Good enough for my truck and family sedan in normal driving. No problems in decades.
A quarter turn past hand tight was what I was taught.Has worked for me for decades.
Me too
1/4 to 1/2 after the crash washer sitting on the head.
Try it. You'll find that's about the torque spec.
Yep, still have never had an issue
ASE Master and GM certified Tech for last 15 years. Living in a high corrosion climate, have always used anti seize and always will. Never been a problem, and my personal vehicles are serviced till 200K.
In small engines, especially snowblowers I could not disagree more. Regardless of the spark plug brand… I have seen significant corrosion issues due likely to the harsh environment a snowblower engines are exposed to. In ALL small engines I use anti-seize and an extra careful when tightening.
You damn right!
Agree! Try salt water applications that don't get serviced often enough. I have several times a year a boat with the spark plug shell rusted off or rusted so bad the porcelain blows out. On some inboards and stern drives the plugs are hard enough to get to let alone accessing to extract the remnants of the plug. If antiseize was used it helps the extraction tremendously. It takes very little so just don't get it on the ceramic of either end. I prefer the squeeze tube. The mess is easier to control. By the way. If you don't understand how to tighten spark plugs maybe you shouldn't be installing them because if you do the kind of damage this guy is talking about maybe you should stick to your desk job. I also always use this on stainless steel fasteners with nylock nuts. They tend to gall when using nyloc nuts even when using grease but this stuff totally prevents it.
I do too. Use common sense when tightening. Yes, using never seize is like having some grease on the threads which needs some compensation when torquing down. I've never had a plug loosen up on any of my small engines after using just a gentle pull with a standard ratchet wrench. Same goes for wheel lug/bolts.
@@curtchase3730 ' I've never had a plug loosen up '
Exactly. Used sparingly it's fine. The expansion/contraction cycles and it not being stuck much later are far more important than anything else, and you generally have some form of crush washer for seal. The odds of it having a problem of loosening are very, very low vs how often some plugs and heads have corrosion problems.
I wouldn't just use gobs and gobs of it, but a light amount to help ensure it doesn't corrosion weld over time is fine.
I use aluminum anti-seize on all my small engine projects: mowers, weedeaters, edgers, and so on. NEVER had the first issue.
I'm 72, retired auto tech over 30 years experience, I enjoy reading about car stuff, Always used anti- seize. I still do my own work! Always glad to learn something Thanks for everyone's tips and comments Always an education!
I have good luck with anti-seize too. I have broken off too many that anti-seize wasn't used on.
I'm 70, I guess he never had an old ford truck with seized spark plugs.
I'm 71 & agree 100% with u. Nothing wrong with a thin coat at the top of the threads. Using anti seize is essential if u live in the rust belt. I've been doing for decades.
My procedure on sparkplug replacement, where the threads of the block and plug are dissimilar metals, would be to apply a small dab of anti-seize to the threads on the plug, but not closer to the electrode tip than about 5mm. I would then finger tighten the plug until the gasket just comes into light contact and then slowly tighten with a wrench until the washer just crushes, where you feel the tightening torque beginning to increase more. This should be close to the correct clamping force on the plug to the head, even though the tightening torque is probably below the specified value.
On sparkplugs without washers, I would simply torque to about 70% of the median value of the recommended torque range.
I've been working on engines in cars and motorcycles since I was a kid in the mid-1960s and have never had a problem with stripped threads or seized sparkplugs. I did have to spray some penetrating oil into the sparkplug wells on a couple of aluminum-head engines and let it soak for a few hours as insurance against stripping the threads on a stubborn removal. I often use a long fat-tube straw as a guide and starting tool, especially on aluminum -head engines, as it is easy to cross-thread those things if not careful. Swabbing the sparkplug threads in the block with a very long Q-tip that has been soaked in WD-40 has worked well for me in cleaning the threads and having a smooth installation. I also blow out the sparkplug well with a shot of compressed air before removing the plug, to prevent the introduction of debris into the cylinder. I will also make sure that the gasket surface on the block is clean by wiping it also with the Q-tip.
This pretty much my exact procedure, and exact results. The only plugs I have ever had cause thread damage or broke the plug, was in an aluminum head where no anti-seize was used when installed.
@@corey6393 It's a biatch when you strip threads, then apply anti-seize. Like using rubber protectant after it dry-rots ;-)
@@corey6393👍👍
Maybe it’s different with today’s engines but aside from my mid-2000’s Benz, all of the engines I work on are 80’s Japanese motorcycles with aluminum heads or 60’s American engines with cast iron. I always use anti-seize on spark plugs. I’ve never over torqued a spark plug and I’ve never had to heli-coil a plug hole either. I use silver anti-seize and it takes just a little bit to prevent the threads from being dry. Aluminum, steel, heat cycles and condensation are the perfect environment for the aluminum to fester. I’ll keep doing what’s worked for me for the past +40 years.
You couldn't be MORE wrong, especially when installing a spark plug into an aluminum cylinder head. Anti-seize does not hurt the grounding, and when installed at the proper recommended torque the plug will tighten to a higher value when the head gets hot.
Ask anyone that tunes racing engines and you'll learn that Anti-sieze is used so you don't damage the threads in a head while removing them for spark plug / fuel mixture checks. The key is to not use very much, it doesn't take much to be effective and save your cylinder head!
Iv been using anti seize for over 50 years and never had a problem. Specially on VW engines or engines with aluminum heads. I can speak for my experience. And I’ll keep using it.
I've personally seen with my own eyes a very popular Ford technician here on TH-cam use anti-seize on spark plugs on a Ford 5.4 2 valve engine. I personally have done it on my GM engines with no problems whatsoever. As others have mentioned here, you've got to have the proper feel of how far to tighten them and use caution to not overtighten them. I also use high-temp anti-seize on any exhaust components I assemble to help with possible future disassembly. Hell, I use the stuff everywhere!
I agree on all counts. When the plug bottoms out? Maybe an eighth of a turn? It definitely a ‘feel’ thing. When I do any other type of work I use Sil-Glide for fasteners. I do it for me or the next poor sap that has to work on it.
@@joeyoungs8426most people wouldnt have thzt skill comes with intrrest and practice
AMEN! ESPECIALLY if u live in the rust belt!
I've used anti seize on sparkplugs for 50 years and never once had an issue with a plug loosening, distorting or breaking. The problem with sparkplugs these days is that they are made out of substandard metals and torque values should be adjust accordingly.
The lubricant that is in anti- seize is 30 weight non detergent motor oil. It will migrate out of the compound and sit on top of the surface. If it does get to thick you can add a little more oil if you can find it. When torquing a fastener with anti - seize you need to use the lubricated torque spec. PS I have been using anti- seize on plugs for 40 years as a certified mechanic and I have never had any issues. A experienced mechanic can feel the proper clamping force on a fastener. I always tighten my fasteners by hand and then check them with a torque wrench to verify the torque. All the torque wrench does is measure the resistance of the threads not the clamping force of the fastener. Torque turn method is a better method to achieve proper clamping strength of a fastener by relying on the pitch of the thread to stretch the bolt to the proper clamping force.
At 74 years old, I was taught how to properly install spark plugs. Tighten until you "feel" the crush washer "crush", then stop. If you've ever had a spark plug twist off in the head, upon removal, you might consider some kind of lubricant.😁
74yo but today engines alloy more delicate most cast iron when u were young lezrnt your skill
Have been using Anti-seize on the spark plugs on all my cars for last 30 yrs - No issues whatsoever. Maybe I am just lucky
I agree with everyone below. Anti-seize is definitely an advantage. Plus the plug will not bind up on dry threads and give you an uncorrect torque reading.
I will use nothing but nickel anti-seize on spark plugs. The problem is people over due it with anti-seize. A tiny amount on threads is enough. Not excess.
I don't disagree with the over torquing. That anti-seize acts as a lube. If there is a range of value for torque go to the minimum. Even if over torqued as you suggest, it still should be within the upper limit range of values.
The anti-sieze I use contains copper and graphite and actually enhances conductivity. Also, torque values are typically given for lubricated fastners.
In aviation on jet engines we use a small bit milk of magnesium NON FLAVORED (Magnesium hydroxide) on the threads of the igniters before installing them. In fact I do know the TO's on the F-4 GE 79 engines it specifically calls out for it.
True...aircraft engines require it. This guy who posted this video has no idea what he's talking about. Like many other TH-cam posters.
@@stephenclemence5856 Agreed.
In aviation, we use a graphite based anti-seize compound. I think it's a good idea to use anti-seize on air cooled engines.
I agree with most of the information you gave Sir. One thing I have done since I have worked on gas engines is use 30 weight non-detergent motor oil on the threads. Just a little bit on my index finger while rolling the threads around the spark plug. This was shown to my by a old mechanic and I never ever had a problem removing the plugs. This is especially important in the new engines which have a very light inch pounds of torque specifications. PEACE FELLA TOO.
I could not dissagree with this more. I have been a licenced tech for decades now and this notion of over torquing and breaking plugs is batshit crazy! Also has little to do with the reasoning behind ant sieze on plugs and or what type should be used. This guy is wrong.
Thanks for the input. I have no problem with anyone disagreeing with me. Some topics will do that. As a tech myself, I've seen many bulletins or topics that I do the same with. In this video, I just present some facts for thought. It is a fact that applying any oil, lubricant, or anti-sieze to any fastener will change the torque applied by up to 20%. It can also create heat transfer and electrical conductivity concerns. Also, many spark plug manufacturers including NGK and Autolite are against the use of anything applied to the threads of their spark plugs. Take a read of this article that has the bulletin from NGK attached to it www.driven2automotive.com/blog/why-you-shouldnt-use-copper-grease-when-installing-spark-plugs/ Also, I personally have never read instructions from the vehicle manufacturer that instruct a tech to apply anti-size prior to installation. Playing devil's advocate though, I have heard that Honda and Subaru instruct that's it's OK to apply anti-sieze. Subaru does tell you to lower the torque setting by 1/3 when installing though. Lastly, I think some of us that have been wrenching for a long time applied anti-sieze to spark plugs since those plugs did not have the newer special coatings on the threads and many may not even know that newer plugs have these special coatings. Either way, I'm not telling you what you're doing is wrong. Just some food for thought about the newer technologies on today's spark plug. Thanks again for watching.
@@joekeene6718 look. I appreciate your intentions. But here is an education for you from one very experianced tech to another. You know full well the notion of someone actually breaking off a plug in a head because they added and i dont care if its arp bolt prep. But because they added a lube to the thread changing rotational friction altering the tightness of the plug is nutz! Unless someone is already very neglegent and applies way to much rotational torque to the body of the plug to begin with. Will lube be able to contribute to plug body breakage. You know that and so do i. So i am sorry. But imo. Your comments are heavily embelished at the least. Not all head mediums and materials are the same and not all plugs are coated or use the same coatings and or processes. There for no one solution of installing a plug with dry threads can be articulated as correct.
As an example. Nickel and copper antisieze have very different properties for a reason. Copper as example is a very efficient conductor of electricity as well as heat. In both cases that can be a far greater advantage than having to worry about if you lube the threads suddenly the plug body will tear in half. That's just silly. Anyone in the trade with feel will have no problem installing a plug with a reasonable amount of final tightness or load to the plug body regardless of what the threads have been in contact with. Nickel antisieze is also required in some cases depending on the medium and particular plug used as well as application it is in. Anyone who makes a blanket statement that plugs need go in dry has not extracted a siezed plug out of a ford or aluminum head that suffered a leaky head gasket or a plug thats been in for 150,000 km. Thats real. So again. No disrespect. But your statements are wrong.
Its important people understand these things to prevent large repair bills or missfires and so on.
@@mohanperformance.enginerd.1308 just let me say one thing you're a dip s*** for even saying anything back to this guy I'm just now finding out the reason my car won't run right it's because anti seize is making my car misfire and no I did not know about the new coatings on spark plugs so this guy that you are bashing we need more like them to let us know when new things are out there so maybe you should keep your comments to yourself
@@verizonwireless7187
😂 Thank you for making me laugh. The world could use more just like you.😂
Se hear ,, ase cert since 1981, never had a problem with anti seize on plugs
For years, the car makers recommended using anti seize on spark plugs in aluminum heads, while the spark plug makers were against using anti seize, because they claimed it affected the spark plugs' heat ranges. I have seen some AC Delco spark plugs come with anti seize on them in the box since then though.
I started back in "the day" using hi temp antiseize due to dissimilar metals, and spark plugs seizing in heads. Still use it "very light light coating" and never have trouble. I've seen too many spark plugs broken off in heads, but never mine. Call me old/antique, but what works under my eyes, over decades is hard to change. Cheers from Canada.
This is a debate that will continue long after all of us here watching this are gone. As a certified aircraft engine mechanic, we were taught a little dab'll do you and to dab a little on spark plug threads being careful NOT to get any on the lower 2 or 3 threads of the spark plug. And then we were taught to ALWAYS use a torque wrench on those plugs. So, to dab or not to dab, the debate goes on.
Been using copper anti-seize on spark plugs for decades. It's been the recommended procedure on Mercedes for as long as I can remember. Just reduce torque by 2-3 nm from dry spec. And anyone that has worked on 3v 5.4 Triton's will tell you how important anti-seize is on those plugs. Also recommended in marine applications.
With Iron heads there generally isn't a problem with a SMALL dab of nickel anti-seize IF you want. The problem is with Aluminum which is a less noble metal and will corrode more easily instead of the spark plug. You need to use either the same or similar material anti-seize as the head or a couple drops of oil. Most plugs these days are plated with zinc or some other less noble metal so that that becomes the sacrificial surface. I just a couple weeks ago changed the original plugs out of a GM Cadillac 3.6l and all 6 were installed BONE DRY. I mean BONE DRY. Some came out 'squeeky' and honestly I'm never comfortable putting things together dry. I used a couple drops of synthetic oil. I didn't have any aluminum AS on hand. I've been changing enough spark plugs over the decades I know how tight they need to be. Just because the factory doesn't do it doesn't mean it's not acceptable.
Not many people can feel the torque needed but yes its a learnt skill
I would use if it is an aluminum thread on the head to use a stainless steel based never-seize with a temp rating of 2400 degree f rating .it can be purchased through Granger industrial supply. It,s pricy, at about $150.00 per quart. But worth it. it will work. .Then you won't have to suffer the busted knuckles garage syndrome.
MISS PAULA WALACH-FORMER INDUSTRIAL ELECTRICIAN-CURRENT UNION MEMBER IBEW
@@paulawalach1770 There are specific anti-seize products for use on specific metals. You would NEVER want to use a 'stainless steel' or nickel based anti-seize on aluminum. It can cause a galvanic reaction and lead to the issue you are trying to avoid. The correct product is aluminum anti-seize which is white. It looks like white lithium grease.
Came out squeaky bringing thread with them. Not ideal, be very carefull fitting new plugs.
@@ldnwholesale8552 Already installed, no threads removed or damaged just dry. No resistance coming out just noisy.
I use it and always will. Most heads now days are Aluminum. Spark plugs are steel. Bad mix. The only thing I recommend is using a copper base anti seize. It gives you conductive properties and equal heat transfer.
Plus one on the copper base.It's the only stuff I use.
Don’t be a tool. Stop using that impact gun.
This is where I like to just use a socket and extension. Threading them in till I feel them touch and then use a ratchet to tighten them just right. Yes use anti seize.
I've been working on automobiles for over 45 years and always use anti-sieze on spark plugs. Never had any issues yet. I also work as a maintenance technician in the petrochemical industry. We assembled everything using anti-sieze, whether its in a hot or cold service. Reduce the torque by 25% and you'll have no problems. We have ANSI and API charts that give a dry torque spec, a wet (oiled) torque spec, and of course, a spec for using different grades of anti-sieze.
I work with marine outboard engines . The sticker on mercury says that when using engine i saltwater you should put antiseize product to the threads. I am putting just a light touch of quicksilver 101 grease and in 15 years never had an issue with any spark plugs i've done..
I've been using it since the mid '70's and never had any problems and never used a tork wrench eighter I've been playing with cars since I was 14 years old I have the feel for how tight it should be only time I used tork wrench is on engine rebuilding or major components like transmission and differential... Just snug the up just like an oil filter... And blow air around the spark plug before you attempt to remove them to remove dirt and crap so it doesn't fall into the combustion chamber...
I used my cordless leaf blower and a parts cleaning brush. Brushed and blew most of the parts under the hood while I was at it.
i'm just a home mechanic but i have always applied anti- seize graphite grease to spark plugs especially on aluminum heads but careful about tightening. i always wondered how putting any grease on bolts going into blocks or heads affected the torque measurements and bolt stretch.
👍
WRONG... Brodix heads requires use of Anti-seize for warranty... As a long-time machinist, I say yes to using it in moderation on anything with aluminum female threads, especially with heat and corrosion otherwise you will eventually cross-thread and ruin the hole. As far as torque, an experienced person has the feel for a tight plug with or without lube. Lose the torque wrench as it is text-book and not real-world. The seat or gasket washer don't get the lube and provide a secure ground..
Always use anti-sieze on spark plugs installed in aluminum cylinder heads. Never remove a spark plug from an aluminum cylinder head until the head is completely cooled off. Ford had spark plugs blowing out of Triton V8 cylinder heads because Ford did not use anti-sieze when they installed the plugs. The person replacing the spark plugs did so with the head still hot. Carbon builds up on the tip of the spark plug. When the plug gets backed out of the hole, the built up carbon on the tip chews up the threads. Anti-sieze helps prevent this. Whenever I replace plugs on a hot aluminum head, first thing I do is blow out around the spark plugs with compressed air. Then I will back the plug off about a half a turn. I'll put a generous amount of penetrating oil in each hole and let it set until the head completely cools off. The heat from the head will cause the penetrating oil to wick down past the threads and help aid in removing the plugs. It will also soften any carbon that may be on the tip of the plug.
It has been my experience in the past that plugs tended to strip the treads out of the head. That was always my greatest fear when installing spark plugs. There was a time when anti-seize was essential or the plug would never come out (dissimilar metals). Fortunately, the plugs that I am replacing in my Honda have been in there so long that I will probably never do the job again.
😂
This guy is wrong!! You don't want threads absorbing torque, thats insane, you want all the torque applied to the taper or crush washers. With todays aluminum heads you better use antiseize, especially with plugs lasting 100,000 now
Meh. The risk of over-torqueing by someone who knows what they are doing.... is relatively low compared to the amount of pain felt, if a plug seizes in place because you didn't put anti-seize on it. No thanks... after 40 years experience, I'll keep doing it my way.
I've used it. I also never used a torque wrench. Lol. Just about a 1/4 turn past hand tight. Never had a problem. (Yet). Lol
I have worked industrial maintenance and engineer for decades. We had to use nickle anti-seize on extruder bolts due to the continuous high heat. I use copper anti-seize on spark plugs and O2 sensor threads. This makes a big difference on removing tapered seat spark plugs. I also use purple or low strength thread locker on all fasteners such as lug nuts because it will exclude water and prevent rust.
My experience with plugs and no-anti seize is that there is a good chance of stripping the thread when it comes time to remove it for the first time. You have Aluminum and Steel (a galvanic couple) then you are passing thousands of volts thru the thread. If you think about it, that is how an EDM machine works. The longer it stays in the engine, the more likely it is to seize in place.
I use motorcycle chain lube on the threads. Don't use anything with copper in it, it will rot aluminum.
I torque plugs by hand and on new plugs, I crush the washer flat. Having had a couple of plugs back out when installed to the correct torque, I don't trust doing it any other way.
I understand the principle with the washer design. It is supposed to be self sealing, with the gas pressure coming by the threads and "inflating" the cavity in the washer. In reality, you just have a loose plug with poor electrical conductivity that is ready to back out and could already be misfiring.
The carbon left in the gas path does act a little bit like anti-seize, so why not put some in.
Copper ! That might be a good point. I use Copper Coat on my plugs, but it's an older Ford FE 390 with cast heads.
@@UNITED2009100 My brother had an outboard motor on a boat used in the sea. The aluminum castings had copper in them. Water pin-holed the castings and was spraying out
You should be good with cast iron heads.
The boat motor might be a little different. We fight "electrolysis" issues on boats. That is why they use zinc pieces on boats.
Duh, so simply undertorque plugs by 30% with a dab of antiseize. No problem.
Wow, it's that simple. Thanks
I was tought eons ago in our shop class to use anti seize when similar metals are in contact.
I've been using it ever since then and never an issue. Of course it effects the torque value - if you can't properly tighten a spark plug by hand, well...
If the torque setting is to turn 1/4 past contact to crush the washer, I cannot see how anti-sieze would affect that. I always used anti-sieze without any issues at all. In fact, it made the changing of plugs much easier. Anti-sieze compounds contain metals and are conductive. Grounding is no issue.
I have actually used high temperature bearing grease on spark plug threads for 45 yrs. Anti-sieze did not exist back in the day. Particularly on motorcycle engines and engines exposed to the elements. With alloy heads that repeatedly get wet, an electrolysis can occur between the two different metals that actually promotes corrosion. You do not have to be a brainiac to use a torque wrench or socket wrench, to know when a plug is securely tight. With any alloy head, if you go swinging off the wrench, you will strip the threads. I do enjoy it when the removal f spark plugs takes less than 10 minutes and the wiping of the plug aperture with a paper towel shows a clean, pristine thread in the cylinder head. I have heard what this guy is saying numerous times. I just like doing it my way.
Back in the 80's Champion plugs in a Chrysler aluminum head were very troublesome when trying to remove them. Right or wrong, Anti-seize prevented a lot of problems with damaged threads and plugs that wouldn't come out. Just a small amount does the job. I think people tend to use too much.
I use antisieze on my plugs all the time. Never had a problem, always back out when I need to remove them. I will continue using it thanks!
My experience with using aluminum based anti seize on engine parts that get hot is that the aluminum in it melts and seizes the part so it will not move. It in fact become a seize maker.
Same... just use a small drop of motor oil.
1st of all, you ONLY use 'aluminum anti-seize' on steel to steel/iron. If you have steel going into an aluminum casting, aluminum anti-seize doesn't give you galvanic protection. Autolite is trying to get mileage out of a special coating they use, but they won't foot the bill for redeeming a seized plug. A light touch of COPPER anti-seize on spark plugs IS A GOOD CALL. At worst, it won't hurt anything. Some of these modern cars use long thread plugs that are literally down in a hole. Moisture sits there, wicks into the threads by capillary action. Becomes 'electrolyte". A plated coating on SP threads partially scrapes off on first install. Use copper anti-seize on all spark plugs and O2 sensors. ALWAYS.
Also, looks like a 5YO has been using that Alum AS by the looks of that brush at 1:09. Pitiful.
Krol oil is also an excellent anti seize in high heat areas. If you ever had to retread a head, you may want to use some copper anti seize from the tube on the first couple threads .
I have to agree with all this. I used motor oil on plugs and it caused oil to be sucked up into the plug well. This video is very rational and well presented.
Been using it on spark plugs for almost 50yrs with no ill effects. Especially on plugs with an unplated base like AC or cadmium like Champion. I do try to use only Autolite with the nickel-plated base. Never had to use a torque wrench either. Today's spark plugs last a lot longer than when I started wrenching. Longer time to allow corrosion.
I agree 1000 percent on this video Been a long time debate for ages
back in the early 70's when I was getting serious about working on cars a mechanic told me when putting in new spark plugs put 2 drops of motor oil on the threads, no more and nothing else, no problems for 50+ years
In the Factory Lycoming engine manual for piston engine aircraft, it requires anti seize on the spark plug threads except the first two closest to the electrode. Evidently anti sieve does bad things inside the cylinder.
I've been using copper coat on spark plug threads all my long life. Torqued to mfg specs and never ever a problem. I see that using copper coat is actually better due to it's conductivity characteristics thus providing a better ground that a spark plug requires. I'm a firm believer that it's helpful all around when used on spark plugs.
Well, should definitely be applied on diesel injector threads. Copper paste, me thinks. Depends on the head, I guess. And lambda sensor.
As long as you keep it on the threads and not the tapered seat of the plug it will still make a good ground and still have the benefits of never pulling the threads out of your heads, especially on aluminum heads.
Been a motorhead all my 63 years. Dirt tracks, street car and trucks, etc. Have never put anything on sparkplug threads. Zero issue in or out.
I am a licensed mechanic since 1968. He’s never heard of copper anti-seize. Always use it and u will get proper grounding and tork and avoid galling.
In addition to applying anti-seize compound to spark plug threads, I also apply the stuff to my bung hole.
Is that to keep your boyfriend from getting stuck?
@@The_Gallowglass Negative. It's actually to prevent your mum from getting stuck.
@@The_Gallowglass LMFAO
I'd rather tighten the sparkplug a little less to get the same desired effect plus the bonus of them not getting stuck or corroded. Tf is this video haha
Please consider research into recip aircraft standard practices.
Always use correct type of spark plug anti-seize lubricant, and a new or properly annealed sealing washer EVERY time a spark plug is installed. Torque properly with a torque wrench of known calibration.
Thank you for your time and attention.
How about JET-SKI?
Engines used in the sea are stuck due to salt damage.
As I see it as long as there's not a risk of something that needs to be grounded losing it ground, then use it. I've had oxygen sensors that I sure wish I'd used anti-seize. The heat cycles of the exhaust systems and the corrosion from road water spray can cause seizure problems.
I was shocked to see my 1962 motors manual said not to use anti-seize on spark plugs. With that said, I always use it. I put a little bit on the upper threads and on the gasket or seat also, in combination with some light oil and run the plug up and down by hand a couple times to make sure the threads are fully covered with a thin coat, while also trying to have minimal anti-seize exposed in the combustion chamber. Also I never use a torque wrench but rather go by feel. I once read in an old hot rod magazine that all threads should have something on them, and I always follow that rule when it’s something I care about, which definitely includes all spark plugs. I have had a very very difficult time removing spark plugs that clearly went in dry! Also the conductivity argument doesn’t make sense to me since aluminum/copper etc. that are in the anti-seize are better conductors than the steel spark plug itself, and certainly a better conductor than the corrosion that would otherwise form.
This guy is correct... If you're inexperienced and have no capacity for common sense, then don't use anti-sleeze on spark plugs. In fact ... Don't even raise the hood. Leave the work to a professional who knows there is never a one-sided fits all rule like this. (unlike the guy in this video)
A lot of people don't have money to bring their vehicle to a sleaze-bag...I mean mechanic.
@@The_Gallowglass, OUCHIE!!! 🤣
In aircraft recip engines you apply antiseize to the threads, but never in the first 3 threads.
It’s a paradox, the hypocrisy you can’t win if you don’t use it you run the risk of a spark plug seizing in the cylinder. If you do use it, you can’t go crazy you can only apply so much but understand a spark plug is not necessarily a moving item only when it’s put in and taken out.
I was always told antiseize can result in accidental overtightening and stripping threads in aluminum heads since it contains a super slick molybdenum, zinc or silicone grease base. A lot of heads are aluminum nowadays and manufacturers are advising not too apply it for that reason. A blanket one size fits all solution. It's not needed or recommended for aluminum. If you have iron heads there shouldn't be a problem. But as stated new plug threads are coated and any corrosion that happens won't result in rust welding. It will be more of a powder I believe that's what the old schoolers are trying to convey. Old uncoated plugs plus iron heads can cause rust welding.
Been twisting wrenches for over 60 years with many , . . . sparkplug replacements all kinds of metallurgy and thread seizures and Helicoil installs Until - - - " Neverseize" ! Works fine , a little finger swipe on the threads (only) it is a conductor, a gentle torque and good to go ! No failures either,
Sorry but, you'd have to be an idiot to torque a plug enough to cause it to break or strip the threads out. I have always used anti-sieze on plugs. I dont cake it on.... just a thin film on the threads. Especially on aluminum heads!!
Good video with good points. Most engineers would agree with you. Mechanics in the rust belt..... Probably not. Also, I respect you for leaving the comments section open.
Wrong wrong wrong... mechanic since 1976, seen dozens of cylinder heads were damaged because of some one not using anti seize. Seen zero damaged from the use of it. Someone is full of book smarts and no experience.
Back in the early 70s, I had a corrosion-siezed plug on a small block Chevy. Champion plug, apparently 2-piece construction - broke off and left half of it in the head. Been using nickle-based anti-sieze ever since.... don't want to go through that ever again.
I'm a home garage guy, and what I've done for many years, is to apply just a very thin smear of anti seize spread on the full length of the threads with a tooth brush. I found that too much, and the stuff will cook into a taffy that makes the plug difficult to remove again. I never thought to try to torque spark plugs. New plugs with new ring I spin down to hand snug, and then an additional 1/2 turn. Used plugs with an already crushed ring, 1/4 turn.
Thread chaser? So I could get metal particulates in my combustion chamber?
2004 f150 good luck getting those spark plugs out if you don't add anti- seize
Yeah those 5.4 triton's are notorious for seized plugs
Absolutely especially on aluminum heads! Don't overdue it ! Cop a slip is my brand of choice. I use a mixture of extreme pressure lube mixed with cop a slip for general nut and bolt assembly ie: suspension, steering, body bolts.
I think the real problem with anti-seize is the user sometimes has no idea what the chemical compounds are in the lubricant. I believe the horror stories come from corrosion due to corrosive garbage in a lubricant. I've only seen once where the lubricant actually corroded the plugs really bad. Usually no problem. However, I just go with the original engineers who designed an engine who usually don't recommend lubricant. That doesn't mean you can't if you have a specific reason for using it though.
I’m 74 and have been wrenching on HD motorcycles and aircooled VWs since my teens. I always use antiseize on spark plugs on both. It’s a no brainer.
The 1st time you remove a 3:25 spark plug and the head threads come out on the plugs you’ll become a believer.
my mechanic, Asian cars, owner of multiple shops, master at his trade without a doubt, i watched him pop a strip of antiseize on plugs and go to town. these were Denzo plugs, coated etc from memory. He said always put just a bit on, not much, as it will seep down onto the plug and cause issues if you gob it on. down spec the torque? i am not sure if he did but from my industrial experience, thread torque ratings always change vrs the type of thread dope you use so i would seriously consider taking the spec down to the greased spec which should be listed in your plug torque specs.
I've used anti- seize with no problems at all for over 20 years on my spark plugs its a lifesaver and has copper grounding properties within
I started using copper cote anti seize lubricant on spark plug threads 35 years ago. (just a light coating). Since then, I have never had an issue with a difficult to remove spark plug. As well, I have never had an issue with spark plug loosening up either.
Prior to that, there would be an occasion when I encountered difficulty in removing a spark plug. I replace spark plugs this way on all my cars, trucks, tractors, lawn mower engines, etc.
I’d rather be able to get the old plug out and save the threads instead of battling it and then have crusty threads or need to chase threads and risk metal entering the cylinder.
Retired aircraft mechanic,I only used it once on spark plugs. My 2000 Montero sport. Recently I changed the plugs. #2 I thought it would not come loose. The plugs are supposed to set at .043 they were at.085.
I worked as a mechanic in the 70's and Autolite plugs were the worst offenders for corroding and getting stuck in heads. Later, I bought a car that had Autolite plugs and had a plug fail {no continuity) while in service for the first time. I have always wondered if the antiseize increased resistance between the plug and the head, but preferred not to risk a seized plug.
This is a remarkably simplistic argument... Clearly, the 'reduced torque requirement' argument is correct (of course anti-sieze compounds are lubricating), so it makes sense to determine what an appropriate torque value is when using an anti-seize compound! Likewise, it's obviously important to only use a compound that has good conductivity - so use one! Anyone who's had corroded threads fail in an Aluminum cylinder-head, can tell you about the value of anti-sieze...
Been using copper antiseize for spark plugs and dropping torque specs by about 10% for vehicles and small engines for 25+ years and never have had a problem. Just changed the plugs in my 332,000 miles 4.0L inline 6 Jeep Cherokee for the 5th time. About every 60,000 miles.. My 2004 Ranger with 3.0L V6 246,000 miles is coming due for its plugs. Have had it since 2006 and less than 25,000 miles. I do 95% of my own repairs and all the preventative maintenance on all three of my regular vehicles and several motorcycles.. Tools can get expensive but nowhere near as expensive as a hourly shop rate if you can't work on your own stuff..
I've used anti-seize for decades without failures. Applied with a fresh toothbrush, you'll avoid slopping too much on the plug.
Well, o2 sensors come with anti seize pre installed, or includes a pacl of anti seize. Spark plugs do not. Therefore, i do not add anti seize to spark plug threads.
Have been using anti seize on all aluminum head engines for around 40 years and no issues. It prevents galled threads in aluminum heads from dissimilar metals corroding and making plug removal rough. Yes you just torque less as with any faster that is lubed vs dry. Head bolts being an exception to the rule.
Just did a spark plug change on a 2011 Toyota Tacoma V6. The plugs were seizing on the way out and felt scary. Had to screw in and out to get them to release. And these plugs were the so call coated metal ones. Used antiseize on the new plugs and I don't use a torque wrench. I got by turns per the spark plug manufacturer. For instance these had the crush washer. 1/2 to 2/3 from hand tight is recommended. Did that and the engine purrs like a kiltten.
Anyone who worked on cars in the '90s know that if you don't use antisieze you'll pull the threads out of the aluminum heads.
If you're only argument is that you have to reduce the torque when you apply an antisieze. Then use antisieze and reduce the torque. Zinc and copper which are the base of antisieze, are good conductors.
When I was a kid, I had threads come out with the spark plug on a Honda 50. My grandfather put a helicoil in it. I always use anti-seize.
The only time I have ever used anti-seize is when the thread on an aluminum head has been previously damaged from over torque (or thread locked from excessive carbon build up), even then it is vary sparing just to run the plug loosely in and out a few times. I typical wipe off any excess before torquing the plug (see note below).
>
Over torquing pretty much everything is a common problem across the industry. Always they think, "Just that little bit more to be sure" and then it's stretched and busted threads for the next person :)
If you ever had a stuck, seized taper seat spark plug, you'll happily use anti seize going forward.
Never had a plug seize since I started using anti seize! Before I had several cases of stuck plugs and damaged thread.
I'm 65 used it on plugs my whole life on tractors that my grandparents had and other cars and equipment. No problem.
I just changed plugs on a 2014 Ford Explorer 3.5. Absolutely used anti-seize and torqued to 11 foot pounds. The key is to not overtorque the plug. Simple enough.