Just got my first MX5, a 2009 2.0l nc2 less than a week ago. I noticed all the things you said, slightly noisy diff, slightly clunky gear shift, tickover not as smooth as I’d like, slightly damp boot. I’m going to do all these bits of maintenance. Thanks for the vid, it’s like you made it especially for me, very helpful indeed.
Thanks Andy, thats great to hear actually, not that you have the issues but that the video will help! Rest assured the clunky gearbox and diff issue can be solved so quickly and it's not evidence of it being weak or poorly made, quite the opposite, the running gear is good for 400+bhp and i'm not kidding. One thing I wish i did when i changed the oil for the gearbox and diff is a tube of Holts 'MolySlip' from EuroCarParts. Great stuff and well worth putting in. Makes the drivetrain like butter apparently. The wet boot can also be caused by the rear brake light too which is easy to remove. I took it off and used Silicone sealant where the holes are and have had no issues since. Since I made this video ive done a thousand more things to the car so if you do have any questions drop me a comment on here!
@@CHEEKYlad_lol yes it most definitely did, the diff was much quieter after the oil change. I needed to change the plastic bush on bottom of the gear shifter to resolve the clunky gear change though, swapped it for a brass one.
Great video, well explained and very sensible. I have a suggestion to make, please remove the rear fabric wheel arch liners and inspect the metal beneath, particularly the sill-end panels and around the threaded bolts that hold the liners in place. This is a notorious rust area on Mk3 Mx-5's and needs to be treated before it escalates out of control. Often there are no external signs of rust, even if the sill-end panels are completely rusted through, it's all hidden. If it goes, it's an expensive repair. On a 2006 with 70k+ miles it will be rusty unless a previous owner has done preventative maintenance. Hope this is useful. Another potential rust area is behind the mounting plates for the rear bumper bar, again, treat this before it escalates. I use 3 coats of hammerite.
Hey thank you very much! And thanks for this! I just had the whole front bumper off and treated underneath too. How do I get these wheel arch liners off? Is the bit I’m looking at towards to front or rear of the arch if you are looking at the car side on. Hope this makes sense but I’m struggling to visualise it.
@@TwoWheelTorque They are easy to remove, just held on with about 3 or 4 plastic nuts, you will see them in the rear arches when you remove the rear wheels. The vulnerable area is at the front of the rear wheel arches, the vertical panel which separates the wheel arch from the sill. Rear bumper bar is also easy to access, but you have to remove the rear bumper, plenty of videos on youtube which show how to do this
Thanks a lot for this comprehensive video. I will pick up a used MX5 NC in two days so I'll make sure to follow those instructions as soon as I get it. Will make a great difference in everyday driving.
Thanks Victor! Great time to buy in the winter! If you have any problems or need any more info drop me a message! Have done about a thousand more things since this video
@@TwoWheelTorque Thanks, good to know! I intend on learning a lot about cars in general through this one, I already have a long list of light and not so light mods I'd like to do, it will definitely be a journey! I've always loved driving but that will be my first sports car, I can't wait!
As an ex NC owner (I now drive an RF) get your geometry set up, if you can get to Roddisons, he did mine, brilliant handling afterward and on standard tires and shocks too.
Wow, this is really interesting stuff. Ive got a 2006 nc that ive had for two years as my daily driver and its been faultless with just the essential maintenance (oil change and new gearbox oil etc-not done the diff oil yet) Im not sure im clever enough to get into diagnostics just yet lol but luckily ive got a good mechanic and i'll mention this stuff to him on my next visit and hopefully he'll advise. Thanks for posting-great stuff!!👍
Thank you for the kind words! To be honest, a diagnostic tool for around £30/$40 will get you something good enough. Consider doing the spark plugs on your NC if you already havn't. I think they are due at around 70k
I love your garage mate. Proper mans garage that is. I’m super jealous. Don’t have any of that myself. The whole family decides to dump their stuff in the garage instead what actually needs to be kept in there!
Great video. Im looking at importing an NC mx5 from japan to canada soon. One thing to add might be to replace power steering fluid. New fluids can have additives to help the rubber seals last and they should give a better steering feel. I changed my 2001 corvette ps fluid this summer and the difference was extremely noticeable(19 year old fluid).
Hey thank you, yea I did do this shortly after this video. Never something I had done before but I suctioned out the old stuff and replaced, I did this 2/3 times to ensure the fluid was renewed. great recommendation. For you in Canada I would have the underbody sorted for rust.
I've just bought one of these! A black 2008 2.0 with under 30000 miles. Will run through all this maintenance stuff - I think you've saved me a huge amount of trouble 🙏
Hey mate no worries at all!! I’m in the works of making another video showing everything I did in total to this car. Comment if you have any issues I generally did everything 😂 Recommend a Facebook page called mx5-Europe NC. Very helpful
@@TwoWheelTorque I really really need to see this updated vid - I'm a complete novice with my first car a 2010 1.8 SE. Non-existent knowledge base but all my spanners have been on bikes so I'm looking forward to caring for my 'new' car. Great videos pal !
Just watch this video for the first time in October of 2022 the ironic thing is is I purchased a MX5 2008 model very close to the same time that this video is shot did everything he did used Valvoline products in the differential and transmission definitely help the transmission the car only had $13,400 mi on it I did notice some filings on each of those plugs similar service on the coolant the car had been kept in a heated garage it's entire life so everything was pretty much pristine I went ahead and bled the brake fluid completely until I was getting fresh fluid through each one of the bleeders and use the good old turkey baster method to suck all the power steering fluid out of the vehicle it was a slow process suck out and fresh cycle the steering wheel to move the fluid throughout suck out and fresh I did this for a few days before I was pretty confident I had recycled all the power steering fluid throughout the rack very straightforward automobile and a ton of fun to drive I pity the people that have never owned one this is my third
Hey John! Ha yes I also did the power steering fluid the same way. Didn’t do the brakes though. I totally agree, it’s a shame people don’t own a car like this at least once in their life. It’s a really great car and reminds you what fun driving really is.
Its a lot over my head not being a car guy, but the video was great. It would be so helpful if you did the actual work so we can see exactly what's been done. I would then try it myself?
Yeah you’re quite right I would have done that. Tbh it takes so long filming and then with oily hands etc it’s pain to film and do it and really requires a second person. Drop a comment if you ever need help and I’ll do my best!
Hey ! Do you know where the screw is to bleed the air out of the coolant? cuz I just used the funnel technique on the expansion tank and now my head gasket's gone. (I jsut changed the thermostat without draining the whole coolant and then filled up again with the funnel technique and when I tried bleeding out more air by revving up to 2k-3k for 10 seconds couple times I made **clonk** and there I am now)
Hey man, No I don’t tbh, however if you change the coolant (I’ve done it a few times as I did a flush) then you honestly won’t need to bleed it. Ideally fill it with the front wheel on ramps and have the heat on full and fans on, it’ll soon burp itself and then go for a drive and when it cools open the radiator cap. I never needed to bleed it
That’s a good shout and I actually did this as I changed the master cylinder and re-did break fluid too. Now I’m annoyed that I didn’t put this in the video! Haha
Great video, and your newer 1 on the mx5 - I have heard that some people are massive advocates for using the same oil for gearbox and diff, specifically this redline mt-90 gl4. Thoughts?
are your back wheels raised? I kind of want that because when hitting pot holes or bumps they hit the car kind of hard and reaches the max threshhold of the suspension quite often ( and makes an impact sound)
1:05 Carefull more expensive filters arrent better in filtering over the long run, i used both a K&N, Bosch, and some other filters and yes the K&N is a bit more free flowing but after 1 month its already behind the bosch because it's get clocked up very easly.
Are you sure this is the case? If it gets clogged then surely it isn’t worse at filtering? It’s actually filtering well and unfortunately not got enough pleats.
@@TwoWheelTorque Yes, i'm driving miata's for 8 years now also racing and tuning. Because of the oil on the K&N and manny after market filters it lets more air thru but after a few weeks/months its get filled with dust en becomes worse then a paper or normal air filter. And yes, after market "high performance"filters filter less good so the engine will get dirty over time. Maybe not a problem because some run them for years without any issues. But il keep it in mind. You can wash them again and put spray on it but its the same story over and over again. Your better of with a stock filter. And if you want a high dymo score remove the filter.
Aaah sorry, we are talking about two separate things. I’m referring to K&N oil filters not air filters. The oil filter I used was K&N and is high flowing and good filtering. Totally with you on air filters. Paper filters 100%
@@TwoWheelTorque You Sure?, because most K&N's are the oil sort and only filter well the first hunderd miles after that they get ristricted. imo you should stay away from K&N only use it on track when that last few HP is neccesary. But for normal cars use normal filters. Its very simple, free flowing means less filtering. So a increase in air is a increase in dust. So far as i know there arrent any good high flow filters in the long term, or they get clogged up and make less power then a stock filter. Or they don't filter at all. In that case your better of with no filter.
No problem at all. Ask away. The air filter is Bosch, from EuroCarParts. The oil filter is a K&N Gold filter. They massively reduce restriction on oil flow and increase oil pressure. You can actually see that on the oil pressure gauge.
@@TwoWheelTorque the oil pressure on the instrument cluster on the nc? that's a fake one essentially just follows the rpm but will indicate no pressure when its too late. I can see you're into the science of these issues but I think you're suggestions are wrong, the friction reducer doesn't have any evidence on your mx5 no matter what your mate says, the redex won't necessarily work and could make it worse, the k&n filter won't increase pressure thats just nonsense.....do yourself a favour and really look for evidence and then and only then, you can be confident in your words
I I looked for evidence and have plenty of it. I think you’ve made the correct sentiment but unfortunately not really understood what evidence is.. The oil pressure indicator doesn’t precisely follow RMP it caps out and has a low that it idles at and a max which it hits when going above 50ish. I get the argument that it is just following RPM but the filter physically changed the needle that it sits at max. Not only that but 3k rmp with your foot off the throttle is lower oil pressure than 3k accelerating which indicates it is not just simply faking a link to RPM. Going from a Bosch to a deliberately high flow oil filter has made a noticeable difference on a gauge, on my friends car who now has an MX5 also, his gauge sits a whole needle mark lower in the high RPM. This is because his oil pressure is reduced by a filter which is not prioritising flow. K&N gold did exactly what is was designed to do. The whole MX5 community know this already. So the evidence is out there x10000 On the reddex part, reddex is known to remove carbon build up, I’m sure there are better things available which contain PEA and I’ve used them too but Reddex is widely available and again. I had physical results readable on a screen. Again... something I can measure on a gauge. These aren’t “feelings” or “positive bias” or just “placebo affect”. So again, your look for evidence statement makes no sense. Finally, the archoil.. nano boron and molybdenum are 2 of the most lubricious substances on the planet. They definitely reduce friction. “No evidence on my mx5” apart from not making any sense that’s total rubbish. They work full stop.. the argument is far deeper than just if it reduces friction. The argument is, is it worth doing? A waste of money? Will it be bad for the catalytic converter? What about rubber seals? That’s the question. I have family in the military who work on engines, aircraft and marine. They use molybdenum and boron additives to reduce friction in engines and save on fuel costs all the time. How much evidence do you need?
Great video, thanks! Could you share the oil you used in the gearbox? I see all the US Miata owners love the Motorcraft but not available here in the U.K. so would love a sold alternative.
Hey certainly, I used Motul eco-nergy 5w30. Motul is insanely good oil, possibly one of the best you can buy. Very long time established oil company in France. (Not to start an oil war) Their range has different oils called things like eco-clean, x-clean, X-Cess, they all have different additive packages but the one it recommended for our car is one which is safe for catalytic converters and doesn’t soot up very easily.
Engine oil yes. I do every 5k miles and every 10k do the oil filter. the filter is underneath and taking it off you got covered in oil so with a 5k interval every 2 changes is fine. The diff and gearbox tbh every 40k is fine.
I bought a 2009 mx5 sport tonight also with 186k miles on it. Still feels strong. It has a groan when the wheel is turned either way so I need to Suss that out and I intend to do everything you’ve covered as well. My question is, despite the fact that Carfax makes the maintenance history for this car look stellar(all the mileage points have been met), are there things I should stay away from being that it is so high mileage? Like am I gonna force an issue to occur if I change the gearbox or diff oil? And what would u recomend for such high mileage?
Thank you! I went with Motul Eco-nergy. If you type in the reg on the motul site the recommended is motul specific 5w20 (it’s a special Ford oil for duratec engines) most would recommend the 5w30 which is what I went for. I’ve done so much more since the video so feel free to drop a question and il do my best to help!
Why you use that combo of jack stand + ramp? arent the ramp enough? are the jack for extra safety? or the jack stand actually make it have a bigger gap below for you to work?
I collect them all in a 20L container and take it to our local skip who recycle it. I think it gets turned into heating oil! Make sure you recycle though
Hey, I recently got a 2009 car for myself and looking to do some of this work on it - just wondering where exactly you jacked the car up and where you put the jack stands? Afraid of damaging something. Great video thanks
Hey there that’s a great question. Along the side under the doors (side skirt? I’m not sure what it’s called) there is a front and rear jack point on both sides. It’s not far under the car if that makes sense, it’s right on the edge just under the doors. You can see a few lines / indents
I can’t remember if I had by the time I did this video. I undersealed it myself using a wire brush and drill bit to remove loose rust, and then using hammerite with waxoyl (called exactly that and comes in spray cans) I wish though, I’d used Dinitrol which is a much better product
Great video as I'm considering buying myself one but I'm not sure if I will be confortable in it as I will do rofly 100km a day and I'm 1.87m tall and 95kg currently owning a Honda Accord 2013 2.0petrol.What is you opinion?
Just got my first MX5, a 2009 2.0l nc2 less than a week ago. I noticed all the things you said, slightly noisy diff, slightly clunky gear shift, tickover not as smooth as I’d like, slightly damp boot. I’m going to do all these bits of maintenance. Thanks for the vid, it’s like you made it especially for me, very helpful indeed.
Thanks Andy, thats great to hear actually, not that you have the issues but that the video will help! Rest assured the clunky gearbox and diff issue can be solved so quickly and it's not evidence of it being weak or poorly made, quite the opposite, the running gear is good for 400+bhp and i'm not kidding. One thing I wish i did when i changed the oil for the gearbox and diff is a tube of Holts 'MolySlip' from EuroCarParts. Great stuff and well worth putting in. Makes the drivetrain like butter apparently.
The wet boot can also be caused by the rear brake light too which is easy to remove. I took it off and used Silicone sealant where the holes are and have had no issues since.
Since I made this video ive done a thousand more things to the car so if you do have any questions drop me a comment on here!
What are your results Andy?
Did it help?
@@CHEEKYlad_lol yes it most definitely did, the diff was much quieter after the oil change. I needed to change the plastic bush on bottom of the gear shifter to resolve the clunky gear change though, swapped it for a brass one.
Great video, well explained and very sensible. I have a suggestion to make, please remove the rear fabric wheel arch liners and inspect the metal beneath, particularly the sill-end panels and around the threaded bolts that hold the liners in place. This is a notorious rust area on Mk3 Mx-5's and needs to be treated before it escalates out of control. Often there are no external signs of rust, even if the sill-end panels are completely rusted through, it's all hidden. If it goes, it's an expensive repair. On a 2006 with 70k+ miles it will be rusty unless a previous owner has done preventative maintenance. Hope this is useful. Another potential rust area is behind the mounting plates for the rear bumper bar, again, treat this before it escalates. I use 3 coats of hammerite.
Hey thank you very much! And thanks for this! I just had the whole front bumper off and treated underneath too. How do I get these wheel arch liners off? Is the bit I’m looking at towards to front or rear of the arch if you are looking at the car side on.
Hope this makes sense but I’m struggling to visualise it.
@@TwoWheelTorque They are easy to remove, just held on with about 3 or 4 plastic nuts, you will see them in the rear arches when you remove the rear wheels. The vulnerable area is at the front of the rear wheel arches, the vertical panel which separates the wheel arch from the sill. Rear bumper bar is also easy to access, but you have to remove the rear bumper, plenty of videos on youtube which show how to do this
Thanks a lot for this comprehensive video. I will pick up a used MX5 NC in two days so I'll make sure to follow those instructions as soon as I get it. Will make a great difference in everyday driving.
Thanks Victor! Great time to buy in the winter! If you have any problems or need any more info drop me a message! Have done about a thousand more things since this video
@@TwoWheelTorque Thanks, good to know! I intend on learning a lot about cars in general through this one, I already have a long list of light and not so light mods I'd like to do, it will definitely be a journey! I've always loved driving but that will be my first sports car, I can't wait!
As an ex NC owner (I now drive an RF) get your geometry set up, if you can get to Roddisons, he did mine, brilliant handling afterward and on standard tires and shocks too.
Thank you, where abouts in the country is that?
@@TwoWheelTorque Sorry for a very late reply, Shepcote Ln, Tinsley, Sheffield S9 1US
Wow, this is really interesting stuff. Ive got a 2006 nc that ive had for two years as my daily driver and its been faultless with just the essential maintenance (oil change and new gearbox oil etc-not done the diff oil yet) Im not sure im clever enough to get into diagnostics just yet lol but luckily ive got a good mechanic and i'll mention this stuff to him on my next visit and hopefully he'll advise. Thanks for posting-great stuff!!👍
Thank you for the kind words! To be honest, a diagnostic tool for around £30/$40 will get you something good enough. Consider doing the spark plugs on your NC if you already havn't. I think they are due at around 70k
@@TwoWheelTorque hey thanx 4 that!👍
I love your garage mate. Proper mans garage that is. I’m super jealous. Don’t have any of that myself. The whole family decides to dump their stuff in the garage instead what actually needs to be kept in there!
Thank you mate! It’s the one room in the house I get to sort myself hahaha
Love the vacuum lines in passenger carpet. Best feeling haha
Sad to say it doesn’t have them any more haha but it was good at the time
Great video. Im looking at importing an NC mx5 from japan to canada soon. One thing to add might be to replace power steering fluid. New fluids can have additives to help the rubber seals last and they should give a better steering feel. I changed my 2001 corvette ps fluid this summer and the difference was extremely noticeable(19 year old fluid).
Hey thank you, yea I did do this shortly after this video. Never something I had done before but I suctioned out the old stuff and replaced, I did this 2/3 times to ensure the fluid was renewed. great recommendation.
For you in Canada I would have the underbody sorted for rust.
@@TwoWheelTorque
I think this counts as two wheel torque since the torque is sent to two wheels.
Ahaha damn right. You should be a lawyer finding loopholes like that
I've just bought one of these! A black 2008 2.0 with under 30000 miles. Will run through all this maintenance stuff - I think you've saved me a huge amount of trouble 🙏
Hey mate no worries at all!! I’m in the works of making another video showing everything I did in total to this car. Comment if you have any issues I generally did everything 😂
Recommend a Facebook page called mx5-Europe NC. Very helpful
@@TwoWheelTorque Wonderful! Will do. Amazing to have a car that has such a following.
@@TwoWheelTorque I really really need to see this updated vid - I'm a complete novice with my first car a 2010 1.8 SE. Non-existent knowledge base but all my spanners have been on bikes so I'm looking forward to caring for my 'new' car. Great videos pal !
Just watch this video for the first time in October of 2022 the ironic thing is is I purchased a MX5 2008 model very close to the same time that this video is shot did everything he did used Valvoline products in the differential and transmission definitely help the transmission the car only had $13,400 mi on it I did notice some filings on each of those plugs similar service on the coolant the car had been kept in a heated garage it's entire life so everything was pretty much pristine I went ahead and bled the brake fluid completely until I was getting fresh fluid through each one of the bleeders and use the good old turkey baster method to suck all the power steering fluid out of the vehicle it was a slow process suck out and fresh cycle the steering wheel to move the fluid throughout suck out and fresh I did this for a few days before I was pretty confident I had recycled all the power steering fluid throughout the rack very straightforward automobile and a ton of fun to drive I pity the people that have never owned one this is my third
Hey John! Ha yes I also did the power steering fluid the same way. Didn’t do the brakes though. I totally agree, it’s a shame people don’t own a car like this at least once in their life. It’s a really great car and reminds you what fun driving really is.
Its a lot over my head not being a car guy, but the video was great. It would be so helpful if you did the actual work so we can see exactly what's been done. I would then try it myself?
Yeah you’re quite right I would have done that. Tbh it takes so long filming and then with oily hands etc it’s pain to film and do it and really requires a second person.
Drop a comment if you ever need help and I’ll do my best!
Beautiful car MX5
Just picked up a 5-speed 2008 nc. Transmission fluid and oil are being changed immediately
Yes mate do it. If you’re doing the gearbox you may as well do the diff. So easy once the car is lifted up.
9.30h 9.30h u redu i to to
Just go ahead and change the thermostat as well.
Hi, how many bottles of the Redline MT-90 did you need for the gearbox please? Great video by the way😊
THREE GRAND 😭😭 that price is insane compared to the miata market today
Excellent video. I have an NC from 2009.
Hey ! Do you know where the screw is to bleed the air out of the coolant? cuz I just used the funnel technique on the expansion tank and now my head gasket's gone. (I jsut changed the thermostat without draining the whole coolant and then filled up again with the funnel technique and when I tried bleeding out more air by revving up to 2k-3k for 10 seconds couple times I made **clonk** and there I am now)
Hey man,
No I don’t tbh, however if you change the coolant (I’ve done it a few times as I did a flush) then you honestly won’t need to bleed it. Ideally fill it with the front wheel on ramps and have the heat on full and fans on, it’ll soon burp itself and then go for a drive and when it cools open the radiator cap.
I never needed to bleed it
What about the brake/clutch fluid? It absorbs moisture and should be changed.
That’s a good shout and I actually did this as I changed the master cylinder and re-did break fluid too. Now I’m annoyed that I didn’t put this in the video! Haha
On my 2006 MX5 mk3 Mazda state FL22 coolant is to be used.
You’re quite right. FL22 is the standard mazda coolant and is a solid choice. The one I used is yearly which is a bit of a pain tbh.
Great video, and your newer 1 on the mx5 - I have heard that some people are massive advocates for using the same oil for gearbox and diff, specifically this redline mt-90 gl4. Thoughts?
are your back wheels raised?
I kind of want that because when hitting pot holes or bumps they hit the car kind of hard and reaches the max threshhold of the suspension quite often ( and makes an impact sound)
Great video thanks for posting, I have saved and subscribed as I do some of these jobs on my similar MX-5
Thanks for the sub!
1:05 Carefull more expensive filters arrent better in filtering over the long run, i used both a K&N, Bosch, and some other filters and yes the K&N is a bit more free flowing but after 1 month its already behind the bosch because it's get clocked up very easly.
Are you sure this is the case? If it gets clogged then surely it isn’t worse at filtering? It’s actually filtering well and unfortunately not got enough pleats.
@@TwoWheelTorque Yes, i'm driving miata's for 8 years now also racing and tuning. Because of the oil on the K&N and manny after market filters it lets more air thru but after a few weeks/months its get filled with dust en becomes worse then a paper or normal air filter. And yes, after market "high performance"filters filter less good so the engine will get dirty over time. Maybe not a problem because some run them for years without any issues. But il keep it in mind.
You can wash them again and put spray on it but its the same story over and over again. Your better of with a stock filter. And if you want a high dymo score remove the filter.
Aaah sorry, we are talking about two separate things. I’m referring to K&N oil filters not air filters. The oil filter I used was K&N and is high flowing and good filtering.
Totally with you on air filters. Paper filters 100%
@@TwoWheelTorque You Sure?, because most K&N's are the oil sort and only filter well the first hunderd miles after that they get ristricted. imo you should stay away from K&N only use it on track when that last few HP is neccesary. But for normal cars use normal filters. Its very simple, free flowing means less filtering. So a increase in air is a increase in dust. So far as i know there arrent any good high flow filters in the long term, or they get clogged up and make less power then a stock filter. Or they don't filter at all. In that case your better of with no filter.
No I mean oil filter. I mean a filter for engine oil Haha. A screw on metal cylinder which replaces your cars oil filter.
Also please advise which obd2 reader you use. Many thx
Hey Andy, I have a NEXPEAK NX301 they're recently come down in price too! I bought mine on Amazon
@@TwoWheelTorque Hey many thanks for the reply.
What air filter did you use and where did you buy it?? I'm asking lots of questions because I really want to do this
No problem at all. Ask away. The air filter is Bosch, from EuroCarParts. The oil filter is a K&N Gold filter. They massively reduce restriction on oil flow and increase oil pressure. You can actually see that on the oil pressure gauge.
@@TwoWheelTorque more mx5 nc videos please I beg!!! 🤣
@@TwoWheelTorque the oil pressure on the instrument cluster on the nc? that's a fake one essentially just follows the rpm but will indicate no pressure when its too late. I can see you're into the science of these issues but I think you're suggestions are wrong, the friction reducer doesn't have any evidence on your mx5 no matter what your mate says, the redex won't necessarily work and could make it worse, the k&n filter won't increase pressure thats just nonsense.....do yourself a favour and really look for evidence and then and only then, you can be confident in your words
I I looked for evidence and have plenty of it. I think you’ve made the correct sentiment but unfortunately not really understood what evidence is..
The oil pressure indicator doesn’t precisely follow RMP it caps out and has a low that it idles at and a max which it hits when going above 50ish. I get the argument that it is just following RPM but the filter physically changed the needle that it sits at max. Not only that but 3k rmp with your foot off the throttle is lower oil pressure than 3k accelerating which indicates it is not just simply faking a link to RPM.
Going from a Bosch to a deliberately high flow oil filter has made a noticeable difference on a gauge, on my friends car who now has an MX5 also, his gauge sits a whole needle mark lower in the high RPM. This is because his oil pressure is reduced by a filter which is not prioritising flow. K&N gold did exactly what is was designed to do. The whole MX5 community know this already. So the evidence is out there x10000
On the reddex part, reddex is known to remove carbon build up, I’m sure there are better things available which contain PEA and I’ve used them too but Reddex is widely available and again. I had physical results readable on a screen.
Again... something I can measure on a gauge. These aren’t “feelings” or “positive bias” or just “placebo affect”. So again, your look for evidence statement makes no sense.
Finally, the archoil.. nano boron and molybdenum are 2 of the most lubricious substances on the planet. They definitely reduce friction. “No evidence on my mx5” apart from not making any sense that’s total rubbish. They work full stop.. the argument is far deeper than just if it reduces friction. The argument is, is it worth doing? A waste of money? Will it be bad for the catalytic converter? What about rubber seals? That’s the question.
I have family in the military who work on engines, aircraft and marine. They use molybdenum and boron additives to reduce friction in engines and save on fuel costs all the time. How much evidence do you need?
Did you take the throttle body off and clean that, I gather they can get gummed up also
Hey, yes I did, I should make another video really! Stay tuned for it!
@@TwoWheelTorque subbed now
Great video, thanks! Could you share the oil you used in the gearbox? I see all the US Miata owners love the Motorcraft but not available here in the U.K. so would love a sold alternative.
Hey certainly, I used Motul eco-nergy 5w30.
Motul is insanely good oil, possibly one of the best you can buy. Very long time established oil company in France. (Not to start an oil war)
Their range has different oils called things like eco-clean, x-clean, X-Cess, they all have different additive packages but the one it recommended for our car is one which is safe for catalytic converters and doesn’t soot up very easily.
@@TwoWheelTorque So just regular engine oil and transmission oil?
Engine oil yes. I do every 5k miles and every 10k do the oil filter. the filter is underneath and taking it off you got covered in oil so with a 5k interval every 2 changes is fine.
The diff and gearbox tbh every 40k is fine.
5w30 in the gearbox? You sure
I bought a 2009 mx5 sport tonight also with 186k miles on it. Still feels strong. It has a groan when the wheel is turned either way so I need to Suss that out and I intend to do everything you’ve covered as well. My question is, despite the fact that Carfax makes the maintenance history for this car look stellar(all the mileage points have been met), are there things I should stay away from being that it is so high mileage? Like am I gonna force an issue to occur if I change the gearbox or diff oil? And what would u recomend for such high mileage?
What ended up happening with this?
Can we get an update video?
Hey mate yes you can, what would you like to see?
@@TwoWheelTorque anythng please whyg?
Great information 👍I’ve just subscribed
Thank you! More to come when the weather is better
Very good video very informative. As I am getting an NC I will follow this. Which engine oil did you use?
Thank you! I went with Motul Eco-nergy.
If you type in the reg on the motul site the recommended is motul specific 5w20 (it’s a special Ford oil for duratec engines) most would recommend the 5w30 which is what I went for.
I’ve done so much more since the video so feel free to drop a question and il do my best to help!
@@TwoWheelTorque Cheers
Why you use that combo of jack stand + ramp? arent the ramp enough? are the jack for extra safety? or the jack stand actually make it have a bigger gap below for you to work?
ohhhh nevermind, now I see you dont have 4 ramps but 2, would you advise to just get 4 ramps (its doable, just think about it and you'll see) ?
How do you dispose of the oils/fluids?
I collect them all in a 20L container and take it to our local skip who recycle it. I think it gets turned into heating oil! Make sure you recycle though
Do you use Archoil in the MX5 nc petrol?
Hey yes I did. Used their engine flush then the 9100 friction modifier
Hey, I recently got a 2009 car for myself and looking to do some of this work on it - just wondering where exactly you jacked the car up and where you put the jack stands? Afraid of damaging something. Great video thanks
Hey there that’s a great question. Along the side under the doors (side skirt? I’m not sure what it’s called) there is a front and rear jack point on both sides. It’s not far under the car if that makes sense, it’s right on the edge just under the doors. You can see a few lines / indents
forum.mx5oc.co.uk/uploads/default/original/2X/b/b1fc73342e71f8d5695487da5f0975b1842be1f3.jpeg
@@TwoWheelTorque thanks good to know
Late reply, but in the rear you can jack it underneath the differential and then place axle stands under the rear subframe at both sides
Brilliant. Please consider a regular four wheels channel as well.
Thank you very much!
Looks rust free underneath, did you get it undersealed?
I can’t remember if I had by the time I did this video. I undersealed it myself using a wire brush and drill bit to remove loose rust, and then using hammerite with waxoyl (called exactly that and comes in spray cans)
I wish though, I’d used Dinitrol which is a much better product
Great video as I'm considering buying myself one but I'm not sure if I will be confortable in it as I will do rofly 100km a day and I'm 1.87m tall and 95kg currently owning a Honda Accord 2013 2.0petrol.What is you opinion?
I am 194cm, 100kg. With jass seat lowering perfect.
You"ll be fine
How often should owner decarbonize MK3 motor? Cheers.
I dont think you need to really if you do a few long journeys and use a bit of injector cleaner now and again.
What engine oil do you use??
I used Motul Eco-Nergy 5w30. Motul is insanely good oil I use it on my bikes too
Thank you so much you are the man