Always nice to get recognized by folks with greater skills than myself. I managed to find a welder I trusted after checking on three or four in my local area. The design was mine partially borrowed from others on You Tube.
Putting it in a doorway is actually a great idea because the door is guaranteed to be clear all the time so you don't have to waste open space along a wall elsewhere where you might want a toolbox or bench or wherever. And mounting the winch not directly above makes things clean. Great job
Super Arbeit,der beste Lift von allen selbst gebauten Aufzügen , mit Sicherungs-Automat,( bei einem Seil riss , ) und 6 Rollen! ich glaube ich baue Den Lift nach, nur mit Funk, dann hängt kein Taster runter??
Hi Brian. Somehow I couldn't finish my first comment. I just wanted to say thank you for such an informative video on your garage elevator. I'm also in the process of building one for my garage and I'm using some of your clever design ideas. I especially appreciate your gantry and pulley design as I also have overhead restrictions. The only problem I'm having is finding the two 2000lb capacity pulleys that you mounted on your gantry. If you could supply your source for pulleys I would greatly appreciate it
As a master, electrician and safety person I just have to let you know that it's okay to have oversized #10 wiring to reduce voltage drop. But you cannot use a 30 amp circuit breaker for your general purpose outlets, which can only be 15 or 20 amps circuits. Looks like you used 15 amp receptacles make sure terminal screws are rated for #10 wire. Additionally you cannot tap to #14 wire if that what did where you transitioned receptacles (can'tsee inside receptacle box). If you needed 30 amps for lift motor you should run a separate circuit for it.
I do remember reading about the duty cycle. I eyeball the hoist pretty carefully as it passes each time I go up and down but admit that I haven't yet checked it's temperature. I have been careful not to ever do more than three trips up and down in a five minute period. Usually, that is easy enough as my attic organizational skills are somewhat lacking and it takes me awhile to find stuff up there. One thing I have noticed is that it is important to watch the cable roll on and off it's spindle. I have added a pipe shaped like the Letter T between two floor rafters that I can slide back and forth with a broomstick from below. Slid to the right, it sticks into the opening a few inches and will support the full weight of the platform. This should extend the life of the hoist brake. I simply raise the lift from the garage floor until it is all the way up (just a bit higher than the pipe). I then slide the pipe over and lower the platform until it is resting on it. If I continue to let cable unspool after the platform is resting, it can become tangled on the spool when I raise it again and it all tightens up. That makes the ride a little jumpy as the cable no longer winds and unwinds as smoothly as before. I have had to sit up there and respool the cable by hand once or twice as a result. It is a good opportunity to inspect your cable but is also a pain in the arse.
I have a question or two. First, I have been looking at these attic lift designs for over a year and your design is the best I have found. I love the gantry you built and the fact that the lift is not mounted to the rafters. My questions relate to how you mounted the lift and the gantry. How did you mount the 1/4" flat stock base plate to the floor? Did you just lag screw it down or is it bolted with a nylon lock nut? Same question on the gantry and how did you mount it to the walls? Lag screwed into the studs? Awesome design and I am going to copy you if you don't mind :)! I'm just paranoid about how to correctly fasten the gantry and mounting plate to the wood where it won't come loose.
The feet of the gantry were made of 1/4" flat steel stock. I arranged for the welder to drill periodic holes through which I inserted 3/8 x 8" lag bolts directly into sandwiched and glued 2x10's on one side and a ridiculously over reinforced wall on the other. If you look closely, you can see a few bolt heads on the video when I give closeups of the winch. Since I used sufficient corner bracing, no mounting to the wall was necessary. The gantry feet are long enough and the design ridgid enough that stability was never an issue. I just sort of imbedded it into the wall. It all looks much better now that I have finished drywalling and painting in the months since filming. It was quite the effort getting the gantry up into the roof. I used two 'come a-longs' and assorted straps and braces. There wasn't a lot of room between the actual roof and the top of the gantry so the rigging had to be mounted to the bottom which introduced balance challenges. If you are intent on copying my design, I must note that my total cost was much higher than other quotes you may see in other videos. I would guess that all in, it was north of $2,000.00. The peace of mind was worth the added cost to me. Please join our little You Tube community by sharing your version when it is built. My design never would have existed but for the ideas posted by those before me.
Is your Gantry load transferred to your ceiling joists? That seems like a extreme load depending upon the span of your joists. If your trolley channel is plumb and runs all the way to your concrete floor it would seem like a better load transfer if your Gantry was sitting on top of the rail. Just a thought. Great job. Would love to see a second video of the wiring of your “lift to compressor” selector switch.
In the left side, the gantry rests on a wall. I added 3 4x4's into the wall as well as a couple of 2x4's sandwiched in next to others glued and screwed. The top 2 feet or so are a series of 2x6's laid flat glued and screwed sandwiched to each other. While I am not an engineer, I do believe that side is built strong enough. On the right, I added a 4x4 sandwiched glued and screwed to en existing 2x4 in the wall to the right of the door to support the 2 2x12 ceiling rafters I glued and screwed together. They stretch about 8 ft to a massive 4 x 12 beam that was already in existence. I used a sturdy joist hangar to attach the 2x12's to the beam and from the back side used my inpact wrench to drive 4 12" long x 5/8 lag bolts through the existing beam into the sandwiched 2x12s. That would be the weak spot. Further forward (as seen in the footage, I sandwiched glued and screwed 2 more 2x12's and ran them from the reinforced wall to a joist hanger on the previous sandwiched 2x12's to form a 4' x 4' opening. additionally the 1/4 inch steel gantry plate on the open side (where the hoist mounts) is about 10" wide which spreads the weight nicely. The gantry itself is mounted to the plywood floor with 4" lag bolts every 10" or so that dig into the beams below. It feels rock solid and I have seen no movement in the beams when heavy loads are moved from the elevator to the ceiling rafters. The rail was added later and serves as a guide for the lift platform only. I am considering a second video that discusses the wiring in greater detail. It would also allow viewers to see the finished product as I have since dry walled and finished the garage below.
Nice job, but, why didn't you install the lift at the lower level, also how much and how long did it take to build? Since I live in a two story house with a bad knee, I really need to build something like this with some cosmetic improvements for my house.
The hoist comes with a power cord that is about 6 feet long. Installing the hoist overhead requires wiring in a cord extension. Mounting the hoist on the garage floor means it would also be in the way when the lift is raised. I spent a lot more than the comparable ones you see on You Tube mainly because I was trying to add safety. I'd have to guess that, all in I spent around $2000.00 or so. Remember please that I am in no way encouraging other people to use this as an elevator. Using it in that manner is my personal choice. There are all sorts of legal warnings on the hoist, Retracta device etc. expressly mentioning not to do this to keep the lawyers at bay.
I actually thought that was brilliant because that space in from of that door is always open so you don't give up needing an open space for the lift all the time
That was my thought as well. Doors take up space, why not put the space to use a second time? I also liked the idea of having it in a corner... It is a great security measure as well with the lift down. I leave it down when I travel.
Do you suppose insulating and weather sealing the lift platform would be feasible? I have a large clear span attic space accessed by a vertical ladder. The cover for that is hinged so it repeatedly returns to the same position. What I'm really asking is how much slop is there to the fit of the trolleys inside the Unistrut?
There is almost no slop in the trolley/unistrut. Most of the lifts you will find on You Tube were built with an inch or two of space in the hole. Some people have added a clear plastic flap to the lift bolted to the bottom along the edges that will seal the hole relatively well when closed. I live in a temperate climate, so I haven't bothered. the bottom of the lift could be insulated as well.
@@brianstucka5111 Thank you, Brian. I have been unfamiliar with those trolleys. I have ridiculous stock piles of hardware I imagined would work for some application but turned out to be wrong. In my 8th decade I'm trying to reverse that.
I just have plans for the gantry. The welder created the platform based on some quick sketches he made as we discussed my idea. Once I decided that I wanted a gantry, I sat down with graph paper and designed it. Send me an email and I will share.
I usually do not like looking at vertical vids but this one was great, clear spoken, detailed explanation and great up close views of your build. That safety reel is a very smart add to increase safety. 450lb/1850lb. I do not know the expense of them or how they operate but maybe adding a second one for back up if lifting a sizable load. A Harbor Freight store near me. Might think about using some plastic tubing conduit for the wiring. Easy for a rat to come along and do some fast extensive damage, maybe cause a fire. I got to consider the same in my shop. Another idea would be to build and mount a rope ladder above the escape hatch so it can unroll and drop down if you have to get down fast in an emergency. Can you add a web link or tell more about that safety reel where it sold?
A friend of mine is a roadie for big bands and climbs around on scaffolding all the time hooking up lights and speakers etc. Each member of his crew has a safety lanyard as well as a harness. He recommended Protecta, but numerous companies make such devices. They work like a self retracting dog leash or a seatbelt. Mine cost around $280.00 or so. www.globalindustrial.com/c/safety/protection?infoParam.campaignId=T9A&gclid=CjwKCAiAgqDxBRBTEiwA59eEN9CgvAvh7YHu5JYrNrDbUeCUjkJ6uFwNvldQzolMTtecIsak6r1B8BoC4n4QAvD_BwE I want to point out that they are designed to catch a human, not a human and his lift platform and any stuff on it. Your suggestion that two would be better than one was considered but I am unsure how they would work in parallel. Cost also is a consideration that must be balanced against safety. My lift only travels 10 feet up so any slowdown of a fall will significantly change the dynamic of a landing. The orange wiring is code in California for 30 amp circuits. As a former Illinoisan (where building codes are far more strict), I agree that conduit is always a safer alternative. The point is moot now because I have since insulated and wallboarded the entire garage and all wiring is hidden in the walls. The rope ladder is probably a better idea than the safety strap I have in place for emergencies although sliding down the strap is pretty easy... and kind of fun.
Thanks! I did some searching on them back when I posted. They sure can get up in price, more than that winch. Prevent a rapid fall in case of lift failure. Either brakes it or slows down the drop. I probably need to use one when climbing around trimming my trees.
Nice job. good design. Not sure but are you running 14 gauge wire off the upstairs outlet which is fed with the orange 30 amp circuit? It may not be 14 but you can't run 14 gauge on any more than a 15 amp circuit.
You may be right about the wire gauge. I will check it one day when I have some time. It is a good reminder to all that a chain is only as strong as it's weakest link.
This system is special and probably the safest DIY, because it's got fail-safe with a retractable lifeline. Well done! What's the brand of the lifeline?
I just let loose of the hand held button on the controller. If I go too far down, The lift just sits on the ground and the cable continues to unwind. This is an undesirable result as loose cable rewinds less accurately on the spool and the ride becomes jumpy as the cable hunts for the lowest spot on the spindle. I have had to manually rewind the cable once or twice and am planning a follow up maintenance video about it. I have never raised it too high yet but would anticipate problems when the platform jams and the hoist continues to tighten...
I bought the trolleys and C channel track from McMaster Carr: www.mcmaster.com/strut-channel-systems/strut-channel-framing-component~trolley/ I found their prices to be fair and the quality of their products to be excellent. (I am not a paid spokes person :-))
All in, I'd say I spent around $2500.00 plus or minus. Smaller ones with wooden gantrys can be built for much less. I was willing to spend more for the peace of mind.
Do not use 30 amp circuit for receptacles/receptacles are rated for 15 or 20 amps and should be on a GFI protected circuit. Elavator should be on a dedicated circuit and follow MFG recomendations. Name plate will specify wattage or amps required.
A welcome point to be considered by all. The wiring gauge in my install is appropriate and run directly from a dedicated 30 amp circuit in my box to a 30 amp single pole double throw industrial ($100) switch in order to use the 30 amps in a series of plugs throughout my garage for use running table saws, compressors or other high current items when the lift is disabled. I have should probably upgrade the outlet for the lift from 20 to 30 amps per your suggestion. I am unaware of GFI protection for 30 amp circuits but will research it.
The lift stops and is held by an internal lock (seperate from the fall arrestor). Since it is only 10 feet, I feel pretty confident that I can climb up or down to get off it. I have a safety rope above my trapdoor I can slide down if locked up in the loft. I also have a full 30 amp circuit dedicated only to the lift through an insustrial 30 amp switch. We tested this scenario by raising the lift half way and flipping that switch.
Hi Brian I lo e your design and the inspiration its giving me! Would you be willing to share the schematics of your fabrication? Can PM if you choose best not to answer publicly!
I like your design one thing you are not allowed to put receptacle's on a 30 amp circuit they will not trip in case of overload because the highest rated receptacles are 20 amp just letting you know.
Nice work! That’s exactly what I’m working on. Looks like 1x2 steel for the lift but what is the gantry made of? Mounting the hoist is always a sticking point but I like how you did it rather than hanging it.
Raw Materials used: 1. Gantry leg and cap tubes - 3" x 3" x 3/16" wall square tube 2. Gantry corner and base plates - 1/4 flat bar stock 3. Hoist cable pulleys rated > 2000 lbs sized to fit 5/16" cable 4. Platform 1 x 2 x 3/16" square tube 5. Six trolleys 6. Four 8 ft pieces of C channel 7. Hardened nuts, bolts and lock washers for trolley mounts.
There are numerous other examples on You Tube. Mine was designed to be heavier duty than most. The gantry and fall arrestor provide significant peace of mind. I drew up plans on graph paper and handed them to a local welder. He made a few additions as well. The pulley shields were his idea to prevent the possibility of the cable slipping off the pulleys.
Brian Stucka yes, I’ve watched them all! But I was surprised your video never popped up on my searches as I’ve been at this for some time. I guess that’s the algorithm guessing what I want to see. I’ve been planning on a fall arrestor since I saw one on a wheelchair lift and thought it was genius since the safety brake is the one thing most of these don’t have. Thanks for making a video for all of us!
Those interested in safety ideas above and beyond what I have included in my video and discussions below should check out this link: th-cam.com/video/uKfYjWBLKis/w-d-xo.html These guys are using two safety lanyards as well as an Otis Elevator style fall arrestor they designed themselves. VERY COOL! I plan to add something like that to mine someday in the future (you can't put a price on peace of mind)
I went to an electrical supply store (that pros use) and discussed it with the guy at the counter. He recommended a single pole double throw 30 Amp switch. It cost around $100.00 and is pretty beefy.
The platform used 1" x 2" x 3/16 rectangular tubing. The welder chose the platform tubing as my plans were not sophisticated. Once I realized that I wanted a gantry as well, I sat down and drew up plans calling for: 3" x 3" x 3/16 leg tubing, 1" x 2" x 3/16 rectangular tubing again for the angle brackets and some 1/4 inch flat bar stock for the feet. The welder chose the pulleys to match the cable size of the hoist which I left with him to help size up mounting holes etc.
I like everything you’ve done except the bolts you’re using as axles and securing points for the fall arresting lanyard. A307 bolts are the weakest general purpose bolts, commonly available at most Home Depot’s and Lowe’s. They are only rated around 33000psi proof load, and will fail at a significantly lower rating in the manner you are using them. With just a few hundred pounds they will snap under a shock load. Please at the very least get some grade 8, or even better a L9bolt for your application. Nice job on everything else.
Thank you for your comment Bo. Those are two very important points to consider in any lift application. The hardware I used to secure the trolleys to the carriage are, in fact, 12 High Strength Grade 8 Hex head bolts from McMaster Carr: www.mcmaster.com/screws/hex-head-screws/high-strength-grade-8-steel-hex-head-screws/ The U-bolt securing point for the fall arresting lanyard has since been replaced. I used two very heavy duty U-bolts but do not have the specifications for them. My idea to use the lanyard came months after I had the welding of the lift carriage completed. What you see in the video is what I had laying about in the garage parts bin at the time. I would recommend to future builders that they include welded hoop/s for the lanyard/s as well as the lift itself. In addition, I would also reconfigure the welded design of the back of the carriage to include an internal vertical bar at the location where I intended to weld the fall arrestor hoops.
@@brianstucka5111 Excellent! I wasn't trying to harp on you, but I noticed the head of the bolt on the fall arrestor in the video said A307 on the head, and that threw up some red flags. I sell hardware for a living so it jumped right out at me. Lot's of guy don't know anything about grades of hardware, let alone that the bulk stuff sold at almost all big box stores is grade 2 or lower. I did notice the hardware on the lift it's self appeared to be grade 8 by the color. I really like that design how you mounted the motor to the floor, and ran the cable up and over, good thinking for a tight space. I'm going to adapt a lot of your ideas to my own when I build one this summer. Thanks for posting, and have a great day!
One of very few garage lifts to incorporate safety devices and an independent escape. Good forethought and well executed.
Great job! As a welder of over 40 years, I can see you thought of everything! Love the fall arrest Idea.
Always nice to get recognized by folks with greater skills than myself. I managed to find a welder I trusted after checking on three or four in my local area. The design was mine partially borrowed from others on You Tube.
Beautiful Job! I LOVE the safety aspect that is missing in other designs!
Putting it in a doorway is actually a great idea because the door is guaranteed to be clear all the time so you don't have to waste open space along a wall elsewhere where you might want a toolbox or bench or wherever. And mounting the winch not directly above makes things clean. Great job
It also provides extra security from break in when in the down position in front of the door.
Nice. Love the more heavy duty build. Not enough people have a life line for it not to mention rope keepers
Best design I've seen on YT so far.
Nice build, yours is better built than most on TH-cam.
Super Arbeit,der beste Lift von allen selbst gebauten Aufzügen , mit Sicherungs-Automat,( bei einem Seil riss , ) und 6 Rollen! ich glaube ich baue Den Lift nach, nur mit Funk, dann hängt kein Taster runter??
Hi Brian. Thanks so much for your informative video. It is my favorite garage elevator video. I'm very impr
Hi Brian. Somehow I couldn't finish my first comment. I just wanted to say thank you for such an informative video on your garage elevator. I'm also in the process of building one for my garage and I'm using some of your clever design ideas. I especially appreciate your gantry and pulley design as I also have overhead restrictions. The only problem I'm having is finding the two 2000lb capacity pulleys that you mounted on your gantry. If you could supply your source for pulleys I would greatly appreciate it
Nice design man. I like that you used an retractable lanyard for safety! I was planning on doing that for an elevator in my mother's house.
As a master, electrician and safety person I just have to let you know that it's okay to have oversized #10 wiring to reduce voltage drop. But you cannot use a 30 amp circuit breaker for your general purpose outlets, which can only be 15 or 20 amps circuits. Looks like you used 15 amp receptacles make sure terminal screws are rated for #10 wire. Additionally you cannot tap to #14 wire if that what did where you transitioned receptacles (can'tsee inside receptacle box). If you needed 30 amps for lift motor you should run a separate circuit for it.
over engineered and extremely well thought out. nice job!
Love the fall arrest idea!
That is so cool it makes me want to make one.
Bom dia amigo o senhor poderia me informar o nome dessas guia onde sobe a plataforma
Have you noticed the hoist heating up if you move several loads in succession? I know most of the Harbor Freight hoists have a 20% duty cycle...
I do remember reading about the duty cycle. I eyeball the hoist pretty carefully as it passes each time I go up and down but admit that I haven't yet checked it's temperature. I have been careful not to ever do more than three trips up and down in a five minute period. Usually, that is easy enough as my attic organizational skills are somewhat lacking and it takes me awhile to find stuff up there.
One thing I have noticed is that it is important to watch the cable roll on and off it's spindle. I have added a pipe shaped like the Letter T between two floor rafters that I can slide back and forth with a broomstick from below. Slid to the right, it sticks into the opening a few inches and will support the full weight of the platform. This should extend the life of the hoist brake. I simply raise the lift from the garage floor until it is all the way up (just a bit higher than the pipe). I then slide the pipe over and lower the platform until it is resting on it. If I continue to let cable unspool after the platform is resting, it can become tangled on the spool when I raise it again and it all tightens up. That makes the ride a little jumpy as the cable no longer winds and unwinds as smoothly as before. I have had to sit up there and respool the cable by hand once or twice as a result. It is a good opportunity to inspect your cable but is also a pain in the arse.
I have a question or two. First, I have been looking at these attic lift designs for over a year and your design is the best I have found. I love the gantry you built and the fact that the lift is not mounted to the rafters. My questions relate to how you mounted the lift and the gantry. How did you mount the 1/4" flat stock base plate to the floor? Did you just lag screw it down or is it bolted with a nylon lock nut? Same question on the gantry and how did you mount it to the walls? Lag screwed into the studs? Awesome design and I am going to copy you if you don't mind :)! I'm just paranoid about how to correctly fasten the gantry and mounting plate to the wood where it won't come loose.
The feet of the gantry were made of 1/4" flat steel stock. I arranged for the welder to drill periodic holes through which I inserted 3/8 x 8" lag bolts directly into sandwiched and glued 2x10's on one side and a ridiculously over reinforced wall on the other. If you look closely, you can see a few bolt heads on the video when I give closeups of the winch. Since I used sufficient corner bracing, no mounting to the wall was necessary. The gantry feet are long enough and the design ridgid enough that stability was never an issue. I just sort of imbedded it into the wall. It all looks much better now that I have finished drywalling and painting in the months since filming.
It was quite the effort getting the gantry up into the roof. I used two 'come a-longs' and assorted straps and braces. There wasn't a lot of room between the actual roof and the top of the gantry so the rigging had to be mounted to the bottom which introduced balance challenges.
If you are intent on copying my design, I must note that my total cost was much higher than other quotes you may see in other videos. I would guess that all in, it was north of $2,000.00. The peace of mind was worth the added cost to me.
Please join our little You Tube community by sharing your version when it is built. My design never would have existed but for the ideas posted by those before me.
Is your Gantry load transferred to your ceiling joists? That seems like a extreme load depending upon the span of your joists. If your trolley channel is plumb and runs all the way to your concrete floor it would seem like a better load transfer if your Gantry was sitting on top of the rail. Just a thought. Great job. Would love to see a second video of the wiring of your “lift to compressor” selector switch.
In the left side, the gantry rests on a wall. I added 3 4x4's into the wall as well as a couple of 2x4's sandwiched in next to others glued and screwed. The top 2 feet or so are a series of 2x6's laid flat glued and screwed sandwiched to each other. While I am not an engineer, I do believe that side is built strong enough. On the right, I added a 4x4 sandwiched glued and screwed to en existing 2x4 in the wall to the right of the door to support the 2 2x12 ceiling rafters I glued and screwed together. They stretch about 8 ft to a massive 4 x 12 beam that was already in existence. I used a sturdy joist hangar to attach the 2x12's to the beam and from the back side used my inpact wrench to drive 4 12" long x 5/8 lag bolts through the existing beam into the sandwiched 2x12s. That would be the weak spot. Further forward (as seen in the footage, I sandwiched glued and screwed 2 more 2x12's and ran them from the reinforced wall to a joist hanger on the previous sandwiched 2x12's to form a 4' x 4' opening. additionally the 1/4 inch steel gantry plate on the open side (where the hoist mounts) is about 10" wide which spreads the weight nicely. The gantry itself is mounted to the plywood floor with 4" lag bolts every 10" or so that dig into the beams below.
It feels rock solid and I have seen no movement in the beams when heavy loads are moved from the elevator to the ceiling rafters.
The rail was added later and serves as a guide for the lift platform only.
I am considering a second video that discusses the wiring in greater detail. It would also allow viewers to see the finished product as I have since dry walled and finished the garage below.
Nice job, but, why didn't you install the lift at the lower level, also how much and how long did it take to build? Since I live in a two story house with a bad knee, I really need to build something like this with some cosmetic improvements for my house.
The hoist comes with a power cord that is about 6 feet long. Installing the hoist overhead requires wiring in a cord extension. Mounting the hoist on the garage floor means it would also be in the way when the lift is raised. I spent a lot more than the comparable ones you see on You Tube mainly because I was trying to add safety. I'd have to guess that, all in I spent around $2000.00 or so. Remember please that I am in no way encouraging other people to use this as an elevator. Using it in that manner is my personal choice. There are all sorts of legal warnings on the hoist, Retracta device etc. expressly mentioning not to do this to keep the lawyers at bay.
@@brianstucka5111 Thank you.
Nothing like having a large space to store more crap .
Well thought out! Maybe not over a door though... any future plans to re-locate the door?
I actually thought that was brilliant because that space in from of that door is always open so you don't give up needing an open space for the lift all the time
That was my thought as well. Doors take up space, why not put the space to use a second time? I also liked the idea of having it in a corner... It is a great security measure as well with the lift down. I leave it down when I travel.
Do you suppose insulating and weather sealing the lift platform would be feasible? I have a large clear span attic space accessed by a vertical ladder. The cover for that is hinged so it repeatedly returns to the same position. What I'm really asking is how much slop is there to the fit of the trolleys inside the Unistrut?
There is almost no slop in the trolley/unistrut. Most of the lifts you will find on You Tube were built with an inch or two of space in the hole. Some people have added a clear plastic flap to the lift bolted to the bottom along the edges that will seal the hole relatively well when closed. I live in a temperate climate, so I haven't bothered. the bottom of the lift could be insulated as well.
@@brianstucka5111 Thank you, Brian. I have been unfamiliar with those trolleys. I have ridiculous stock piles of hardware I imagined would work for some application but turned out to be wrong. In my 8th decade I'm trying to reverse that.
Are you willing to share you plans you took to your welder and the way you have installed everything?
I just have plans for the gantry. The welder created the platform based on some quick sketches he made as we discussed my idea. Once I decided that I wanted a gantry, I sat down with graph paper and designed it. Send me an email and I will share.
Good Stuff
I usually do not like looking at vertical vids but this one was great, clear spoken, detailed explanation and great up close views of your build. That safety reel is a very smart add to increase safety. 450lb/1850lb. I do not know the expense of them or how they operate but maybe adding a second one for back up if lifting a sizable load.
A Harbor Freight store near me. Might think about using some plastic tubing conduit for the wiring. Easy for a rat to come along and do some fast extensive damage, maybe cause a fire. I got to consider the same in my shop. Another idea would be to build and mount a rope ladder above the escape hatch so it can unroll and drop down if you have to get down fast in an emergency. Can you add a web link or tell more about that safety reel where it sold?
A friend of mine is a roadie for big bands and climbs around on scaffolding all the time hooking up lights and speakers etc. Each member of his crew has a safety lanyard as well as a harness. He recommended Protecta, but numerous companies make such devices. They work like a self retracting dog leash or a seatbelt. Mine cost around $280.00 or so.
www.globalindustrial.com/c/safety/protection?infoParam.campaignId=T9A&gclid=CjwKCAiAgqDxBRBTEiwA59eEN9CgvAvh7YHu5JYrNrDbUeCUjkJ6uFwNvldQzolMTtecIsak6r1B8BoC4n4QAvD_BwE
I want to point out that they are designed to catch a human, not a human and his lift platform and any stuff on it. Your suggestion that two would be better than one was considered but I am unsure how they would work in parallel. Cost also is a consideration that must be balanced against safety. My lift only travels 10 feet up so any slowdown of a fall will significantly change the dynamic of a landing.
The orange wiring is code in California for 30 amp circuits. As a former Illinoisan (where building codes are far more strict), I agree that conduit is always a safer alternative. The point is moot now because I have since insulated and wallboarded the entire garage and all wiring is hidden in the walls.
The rope ladder is probably a better idea than the safety strap I have in place for emergencies although sliding down the strap is pretty easy... and kind of fun.
www.globalindustrial.com/c/safety/protection/lifeline-systems
Thanks! I did some searching on them back when I posted. They sure can get up in price, more than that winch. Prevent a rapid fall in case of lift failure. Either brakes it or slows down the drop. I probably need to use one when climbing around trimming my trees.
Can't put romex in conduit.
This design was inspired by other, similar versions already on You Tube. Special thanks to this gentleman: th-cam.com/video/kjlZHgo2w-Q/w-d-xo.html
I incorrectly stated that there are twelve trolley wheels in the video. In fact, each trolley has 4 wheels for a total of 24.
Bravo
Nice job. good design. Not sure but are you running 14 gauge wire off the upstairs outlet which is fed with the orange 30 amp circuit? It may not be 14 but you can't run 14 gauge on any more than a 15 amp circuit.
You may be right about the wire gauge. I will check it one day when I have some time. It is a good reminder to all that a chain is only as strong as it's weakest link.
Awesome, except for portrait mode.
This system is special and probably the safest DIY, because it's got fail-safe with a retractable lifeline.
Well done!
What's the brand of the lifeline?
Protecta
www.globalindustrial.com/c/safety/protection/lifeline-systems
Thank you!
What stops the elevator at top and bottom, your hand held control or some sort of safety switch.
I just let loose of the hand held button on the controller. If I go too far down, The lift just sits on the ground and the cable continues to unwind. This is an undesirable result as loose cable rewinds less accurately on the spool and the ride becomes jumpy as the cable hunts for the lowest spot on the spindle. I have had to manually rewind the cable once or twice and am planning a follow up maintenance video about it. I have never raised it too high yet but would anticipate problems when the platform jams and the hoist continues to tighten...
I was impressed with your wiring for the other outlets with option for just the lift, so I was just curious.
Where did you buy the trolly’s? Thanks
I bought the trolleys and C channel track from McMaster Carr:
www.mcmaster.com/strut-channel-systems/strut-channel-framing-component~trolley/
I found their prices to be fair and the quality of their products to be excellent. (I am not a paid spokes person :-))
What was the total cost of the building in the elevator
All in, I'd say I spent around $2500.00 plus or minus. Smaller ones with wooden gantrys can be built for much less. I was willing to spend more for the peace of mind.
Do not use 30 amp circuit for receptacles/receptacles are rated for 15 or 20 amps and should be on a GFI protected circuit. Elavator should be on a dedicated circuit and follow MFG recomendations. Name plate will specify wattage or amps required.
A welcome point to be considered by all. The wiring gauge in my install is appropriate and run directly from a dedicated 30 amp circuit in my box to a 30 amp single pole double throw industrial ($100) switch in order to use the 30 amps in a series of plugs throughout my garage for use running table saws, compressors or other high current items when the lift is disabled. I have should probably upgrade the outlet for the lift from 20 to 30 amps per your suggestion. I am unaware of GFI protection for 30 amp circuits but will research it.
What happens when you lose power?
The lift stops and is held by an internal lock (seperate from the fall arrestor). Since it is only 10 feet, I feel pretty confident that I can climb up or down to get off it. I have a safety rope above my trapdoor I can slide down if locked up in the loft. I also have a full 30 amp circuit dedicated only to the lift through an insustrial 30 amp switch. We tested this scenario by raising the lift half way and flipping that switch.
Hi Brian I lo e your design and the inspiration its giving me! Would you be willing to share the schematics of your fabrication? Can PM if you choose best not to answer publicly!
email me at brianstucka@hotmail.com. Put "Lift Schematic Request" in the email title so that I can find your email in my spam folder
@@brianstucka5111 Awesome! Done ✔
I like your design one thing you are not allowed to put receptacle's on a 30 amp circuit they will not trip in case of overload because the highest rated receptacles are 20 amp just letting you know.
Good for us all to know, thank you. Perhaps I will add a 20 amp breaker in line ahead of the outlets. Home Depot should have a small breaker box...
Nice work! That’s exactly what I’m working on. Looks like 1x2 steel for the lift but what is the gantry made of? Mounting the hoist is always a sticking point but I like how you did it rather than hanging it.
Raw Materials used: 1. Gantry leg and cap tubes - 3" x 3" x 3/16" wall square tube 2. Gantry corner and base plates - 1/4 flat bar stock 3. Hoist cable pulleys rated > 2000 lbs sized to fit 5/16" cable 4. Platform 1 x 2 x 3/16" square tube 5. Six trolleys 6. Four 8 ft pieces of C channel 7. Hardened nuts, bolts and lock washers for trolley mounts.
There are numerous other examples on You Tube. Mine was designed to be heavier duty than most. The gantry and fall arrestor provide significant peace of mind. I drew up plans on graph paper and handed them to a local welder. He made a few additions as well. The pulley shields were his idea to prevent the possibility of the cable slipping off the pulleys.
The location of the hoist on the gantry baseplate eliminated the need to extend the control wire.
Brian Stucka yes, I’ve watched them all! But I was surprised your video never popped up on my searches as I’ve been at this for some time. I guess that’s the algorithm guessing what I want to see. I’ve been planning on a fall arrestor since I saw one on a wheelchair lift and thought it was genius since the safety brake is the one thing most of these don’t have. Thanks for making a video for all of us!
Those interested in safety ideas above and beyond what I have included in my video and discussions below should check out this link: th-cam.com/video/uKfYjWBLKis/w-d-xo.html
These guys are using two safety lanyards as well as an Otis Elevator style fall arrestor they designed themselves. VERY COOL! I plan to add something like that to mine someday in the future (you can't put a price on peace of mind)
Very cool. What do you call that type of light switch?
I went to an electrical supply store (that pros use) and discussed it with the guy at the counter. He recommended a single pole double throw 30 Amp switch. It cost around $100.00 and is pretty beefy.
@@brianstucka5111 Thanks for replying Brian. One more question, is the platform constructed from 1" square tube?
The platform used 1" x 2" x 3/16 rectangular tubing. The welder chose the platform tubing as my plans were not sophisticated. Once I realized that I wanted a gantry as well, I sat down and drew up plans calling for: 3" x 3" x 3/16 leg tubing, 1" x 2" x 3/16 rectangular tubing again for the angle brackets and some 1/4 inch flat bar stock for the feet. The welder chose the pulleys to match the cable size of the hoist which I left with him to help size up mounting holes etc.
@@brianstucka5111 Great information, thanks for taking the time to post all the specs.
I like everything you’ve done except the bolts you’re using as axles and securing points for the fall arresting lanyard. A307 bolts are the weakest general purpose bolts, commonly available at most Home Depot’s and Lowe’s. They are only rated around 33000psi proof load, and will fail at a significantly lower rating in the manner you are using them. With just a few hundred pounds they will snap under a shock load. Please at the very least get some grade 8, or even better a L9bolt for your application. Nice job on everything else.
Thank you for your comment Bo. Those are two very important points to consider in any lift application. The hardware I used to secure the trolleys to the carriage are, in fact, 12 High Strength Grade 8 Hex head bolts from
McMaster Carr: www.mcmaster.com/screws/hex-head-screws/high-strength-grade-8-steel-hex-head-screws/
The U-bolt securing point for the fall arresting lanyard has since been replaced. I used two very heavy duty U-bolts but do not have the specifications for them. My idea to use the lanyard came months after I had the welding of the lift carriage completed. What you see in the video is what I had laying about in the garage parts bin at the time. I would recommend to future builders that they include welded hoop/s for the lanyard/s as well as the lift itself. In addition, I would also reconfigure the welded design of the back of the carriage to include an internal vertical bar at the location where I intended to weld the fall arrestor hoops.
@@brianstucka5111 Excellent! I wasn't trying to harp on you, but I noticed the head of the bolt on the fall arrestor in the video said A307 on the head, and that threw up some red flags. I sell hardware for a living so it jumped right out at me. Lot's of guy don't know anything about grades of hardware, let alone that the bulk stuff sold at almost all big box stores is grade 2 or lower. I did notice the hardware on the lift it's self appeared to be grade 8 by the color. I really like that design how you mounted the motor to the floor, and ran the cable up and over, good thinking for a tight space. I'm going to adapt a lot of your ideas to my own when I build one this summer. Thanks for posting, and have a great day!
Zach