It sounds pretty good to me.Are both exhaust pipes getting hot?It sounds like It is running on both cylinders They sound different They make a different sound all their own
I just rebuilt a 01 ZR 600 with a new top end and had a similar situation with it seeming to run on one cylinder. I took the head off to inspect and noticed oily residue on one cylinder, decided to put back together and measure compression which matched the other cylinder. Looked over everything and noticed I had one loose bolt on intake and had an fuel injector connection that came off. Fixed both of those and it runs great now. There's a way to read the ecu with led light on the back ECU for trouble codes it's in the service manual. Just a couple ideas.
We built a 04 firecat new motor wire harness cdi box injectors to match cdi new injectors to match new voltage regulator new servo motor and the servo still doesn’t cycle on initial start up but it does cycle under load and seems to run 10xs better than last year before we redid all the electrical it’s for a race sled up here in northern Alaska
Power valves only work at 7000 rpm full throttle. Its hard to tell if they are working or not but you can hear them growl at 3/4 to full throttle going fast at 7000 rpm. They are probably ok
Check the blinking code light under the ecu it shouldn't be blinking. If it is lookup the code. It's under the box. Kinda stupid design but mine was the water temp sensor blinking it operates the enrichiner for the choke shut off. And maybe clean the injectors and fuel pump check hoses in tank.
I just did a top end on mine over Christmas, it definitely ran really weird on the first couple of start-ups. I bought the sled two years ago and I always ran 91 gas with the extra ecu wire plugged in. Well, i found out later after i burnt up a piston that my uncle (who i bought the sled from) ran 87 gas with the wire unplugged for 20 years. He said he only ran 91 one time and plugged the wire in that same time and he burnt up a piston same as i did. Anyways, where I was going with this is those first few heat cycles seemed really rough, acting similar to this one. After that, i replaced the fuel with 87, and it seems to be better. I haven't got much time for testing, but I'm hoping that takes care of things. I still haven't figured out if my power valve servo is working either. I think it's getting power, I just haven't seen it move yet. Also, on my one test ride since the rebuild, i could only get about 55mph out of it,, not sure what that was about. Also, the little filter screens on the end of the fuel lines inside the tank have some tiny little springs in there that wear-out/get-too-weak so I replaced them with springs I took out of a couple of pens. I'm hoping that will stop the sled from cutting-out when trying to accelerate
@teddybooth64 power valves are for top end so you still get good low end power with out raising the port. So at full load and power 7000 rpm they move to give you more top end power and close back down to get good low end back. Best of both worlds. Brilliant engineering. So you can't really see them move. I think you could put some grease on the cable and cams to check if the grease moves after a test pull. You can hear them working at 7/8 to wot back and forth feel it listen to it when full throttle riding
Love the build ❤.. 😊
Hang in there you'll get it.
It sounds pretty good to me.Are both exhaust pipes getting hot?It sounds like It is running on both cylinders They sound different They make a different sound all their own
Put the clutch on, 😉
I just rebuilt a 01 ZR 600 with a new top end and had a similar situation with it seeming to run on one cylinder. I took the head off to inspect and noticed oily residue on one cylinder, decided to put back together and measure compression which matched the other cylinder. Looked over everything and noticed I had one loose bolt on intake and had an fuel injector connection that came off. Fixed both of those and it runs great now. There's a way to read the ecu with led light on the back ECU for trouble codes it's in the service manual. Just a couple ideas.
I did a top end on a 99 lz 600 seemed to run good for a few some miles until it dropped the same cylinder as before. Ended up needing crank seals.
We built a 04 firecat new motor wire harness cdi box injectors to match cdi new injectors to match new voltage regulator new servo motor and the servo still doesn’t cycle on initial start up but it does cycle under load and seems to run 10xs better than last year before we redid all the electrical it’s for a race sled up here in northern Alaska
Power valves only work at 7000 rpm full throttle. Its hard to tell if they are working or not but you can hear them growl at 3/4 to full throttle going fast at 7000 rpm. They are probably ok
Check the blinking code light under the ecu it shouldn't be blinking. If it is lookup the code. It's under the box. Kinda stupid design but mine was the water temp sensor blinking it operates the enrichiner for the choke shut off. And maybe clean the injectors and fuel pump check hoses in tank.
On all these old efi sleds you need to check fuel pressure and get your injectors cleaned. 20yrs of gunk build up is not good
I just did a top end on mine over Christmas, it definitely ran really weird on the first couple of start-ups. I bought the sled two years ago and I always ran 91 gas with the extra ecu wire plugged in. Well, i found out later after i burnt up a piston that my uncle (who i bought the sled from) ran 87 gas with the wire unplugged for 20 years. He said he only ran 91 one time and plugged the wire in that same time and he burnt up a piston same as i did. Anyways, where I was going with this is those first few heat cycles seemed really rough, acting similar to this one. After that, i replaced the fuel with 87, and it seems to be better. I haven't got much time for testing, but I'm hoping that takes care of things.
I still haven't figured out if my power valve servo is working either. I think it's getting power, I just haven't seen it move yet.
Also, on my one test ride since the rebuild, i could only get about 55mph out of it,, not sure what that was about.
Also, the little filter screens on the end of the fuel lines inside the tank have some tiny little springs in there that wear-out/get-too-weak so I replaced them with springs I took out of a couple of pens. I'm hoping that will stop the sled from cutting-out when trying to accelerate
@teddybooth64 power valves are for top end so you still get good low end power with out raising the port. So at full load and power 7000 rpm they move to give you more top end power and close back down to get good low end back. Best of both worlds. Brilliant engineering. So you can't really see them move. I think you could put some grease on the cable and cams to check if the grease moves after a test pull. You can hear them working at 7/8 to wot back and forth feel it listen to it when full throttle riding
I don't think efi cycles the power valves on start up like carb does
That is correct
stator