It's surprising how many people don't believe me when I've told them over the years that you can't check a battery properly without a load. This Is a great example of what I have been telling people, so I'll save the link and send them over here to see your demo.
The battery is under load when you measure it... it's a closed circuit. If you measure it for a long time, it will get depleted. Unless the 9V battery inside the voltometer gets depleted first.
@@praclarushtaonas7232 Fluke meters have a minimum input impedance of 10MΩ. Assuming a nominal 3V supply, power dissipated by the meter (taken from the coin cell) will be less than V²/R=0.9 microwatts. Energizer CR2032 batteries are approx 0.6 watt hour capacity, hence time to discharge based on drain via the Fluke will be at least 76.1 years. Like @G56AG said, you really do need a separate load.
Even if this clip has few years, it still useful as of today. We still use these batteries so having some technical info that we can refer to is always a plus. I'm glad you showed the datasheet so that people can more clearly understand the concept. Also, depending on the manufacturers, the specs might slightly vary as for the capacity, the test conditions, etc... so people will have a good idea what to look for. Thanks for your time.
I feel grateful this reconditioning program th-cam.com/users/postUgkxcJ22tnHH9l1vjdIdEIG27iOG55P7LXI8 was started. I had Three dead batteries scheduled for disposing of. Having said that, I tried out reconditioning them and it took me only an hour to do it! It doesn`t matter what type of battery you want, the process works.
Generally, no water is good for a sealed cell. If you are referring to a flooded battery such as one you may find in a car, then you must use distilled water, else the chlorine and other chemicals/minerals in normal tap water will destroy your flooded battery's plates.
Followed your instructions, I found bunch NOS 2032 batteries are junk. terminal voltage reads about 3.1-3.2V without load. But when I connect to 5K load, nearly all of those 15 years old batteries drop to 0.7V.
Indeed, 2032=20mm diameter, 3.2mm thick. So a 1616 cell is 16mm in diameter and 1.6mm thick. It's an effective, yet simple way to indicate the battery size.
Well, I'm confuse. I have 3 old batteries CR2032/DL2032/CR2032 all 3 are from different manufacturers (Panasonic/Duracell/Sony respectively), which I tried to use in a bathroom scale and none of them worked. The scale would work intermittently or not at all. No load: was 3.1v/3.03v/3.05v respectively Load (4.7Kohm, actually measures 4.96K ohms): 2.95v/2.96v/2.96v respectively But none of them would work. I was expecting the values to be below 2.8v under load. Why? Shouldn't they still work at 2.95 or 2.96v? Bought a new battery and the scale is working.
In Rf and IR remotes that is why adding extra decoupling capacitors prolongs cell life, it will work to give single pulses till the cell is under 2V open circuit. I use anything between 10 and 47uF SMD tantalum, whatever will fit and whatever I pull off old boards and any voltage above 16V for 12V. 2 coin cell remotes 10V works, and there you might fit 100uF in the case.
That is certainly an interesting idea. Do you have information on what the current drain from the capacitor would be if you place a tantalum capacitor in parallel with the coin cell?
TechBench Under 500nA of current for good capacitors. See www.vishay.com/docs/49268/tn0003.pdf for more. Basically reduces life by a few weeks but improves pulse performance.
+TechBench i found a box of lithium batteries, button duracell DL1620B. it says best if use by 2005. do you think these batteries are still good? what is the shelf life of a button lithium battery? batteries are all in the box unopened
Normally those button cells have a shelf life of about 10 years, so it's likely that they will all fail very soon after taking them into use. Test them! :-)
thank you for responding , i bought an LED light 3-8 VDC my battery is 3 volts. it is working fine right now. how long do you think before the battery drains if the battery is good? note: the LED that i bought is a blinker or it blinks
You don't mention which country you are from, but in general, you should be able to just search for "button cell tester" and that will render the desired results for under 10 yankee bucks.
Phew, analogue meters (the kind with the needle) can still be used, but you likely will not get the amount of detail you need. Set your analogue meter to a voltage scale that is just above the voltage you intend to measure. In this case, you expect around 3 volts. Set your meter to the 5V or 10V scale and measure the battery.
a really great video .. many thanks .. do you think you might make the video on building your variable resistance box? your set up looks so neat connected to the multi meter. For a novice your explanations and method was really helpful!
i check it by if it doesn't work any more then i get another one. or if i'm in a pinch, i'll connect a 12v 10 amp car battery charger to it for maybe 20 seconds. that usually get it going again.
It simulates a load on the cell. It means you are measuring the battery voltage *while it is in use* which is a more accurate reflection of the battery's state than just measuring it without any load.
My old Radio Shack Micronta 22-188 has two plug-ins for the positive lead. One has a lightning bolt one does not. Which one should I use to check a battery?
The Micronta 22-188 (like most good multimeters) have separate plugs for current and voltage measurement. The right-hand plug (with the lightning bolt) is used for DC and AC volts. The left-hand plug is used for current and will typically have A or mA designations. You want to use the DC Voltage measurement (along with a load resistor) to check battery voltage.
Thank you for your reply. I considered just trying each plug but I didn't want to ruin the multi-meter by feeding current where it shouldn't go. Unfortunately I have misplaced the manual. I was surprised that I got a reading of 3.03v on a CR2032 because it has been in a tire pressure gauge for several years.
I don't think this meter has the function that adds resistance. And I'm not sure I have the skills to make a load resistor but I might give it a try when I get some time.
Unfortunately, the only way to know how much is left is to measure how much was used while power is being drained. Very few devices do this. An alternative way would be to measure the current draw and work that into how long the battery has been in use.
Simply put: I used a 10 kilo-ohm 10-turn potentiometer with a 10-turn dial. Since both are 10-turn, the values work out nicely so as to scale along with the reading on the dial.
Thanks for your very informative video. Just wondering whether it would also be possible to measure the current (max milli Amps) using a DMM etc by placing the meter probes on each side of the battery terminals? or even through a current limiting resistor in-line with one of the probes? A flat battery should have a very low current reading when shorted through the meter and I can't imagine a fully charged 3V cell this small being able to push more than a few hundred milliamps when new.
You are, of course, correct that you can measure the dead-short current capability, but the result will not give you an reliable indication of how full/empty the cell is. Since different cells have varying internal resistances, there is no specific scale either. In addition, you can easily blow your meter's mA fuse by measuring even just a slightly larger battery (such as a AAA).
The battery, push-button switch and resistor are in series (i.e. they are all connected end-to-end), but effectively we put the load resistor in parallel with the battery for the duration of the button press. Hope that makes sense!
- Hello. You don't say from which country you are, but you can buy them almost anywhere. Online, look on eBay and search for "multiturn potentiometer". You will also get some results for the knob.
I am in the USA I will look thanks The 2032 are a pain to check to see if they are good. Thanks But the Multi turn Pot is not set up like the one you have, Did you make it? Thanks
No, the CR-series are not rechargeable, but the LIR-series and ML-series are. Just be careful about the voltages and make sure that your device can correctly charge these batteries.
If you place the 15k resistor over the poles of the coin cell and measure the voltage, it should be pretty close to the 3V measurement of the cell. The 15k resistor load means it will only draw about (3V/15kohm)=0.0002A (or 200μA) of current. That's a tiny amount of current!
+fellows55 Thanks! I built the resistance box myself, but it's really easy to do. It's a 10k ohm, 10-turn potentiometer with a 10-turn rotary dial. Perhaps I should make a really short video on how to do that. I see similar kits are available here: www.ebay.com/itm/New-10K-Ohm-3590S-2-103L-Potentiometer-With-10-Turn-Counting-Dial-Rotary-Knob-/281782868179
+TechBench Thanks for the info! I think I am going to try and make one for myself. If you do make a video on how to make one that would be great and I will watch. Thanks again!
Essentially potentiometer *is* the 10k resistor, only it's variable. In other words, if I turn it all the way to the one side, it is 10k ohm, but if I turn it all the way to the other side, it's 0 ohm. The adjustment knob is just nicely marked out in 1k increments.
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It's surprising how many people don't believe me when I've told them over the years that you can't check a battery properly without a load. This Is a great example of what I have been telling people, so I'll save the link and send them over here to see your demo.
The battery is under load when you measure it... it's a closed circuit. If you measure it for a long time, it will get depleted. Unless the 9V battery inside the voltometer gets depleted first.
@@praclarushtaonas7232 Fluke meters have a minimum input impedance of 10MΩ. Assuming a nominal 3V supply, power dissipated by the meter (taken from the coin cell) will be less than V²/R=0.9 microwatts. Energizer CR2032 batteries are approx 0.6 watt hour capacity, hence time to discharge based on drain via the Fluke will be at least 76.1 years. Like @G56AG said, you really do need a separate load.
Even if this clip has few years, it still useful as of today. We still use these batteries so having some technical info that we can refer to is always a plus. I'm glad you showed the datasheet so that people can more clearly understand the concept. Also, depending on the manufacturers, the specs might slightly vary as for the capacity, the test conditions, etc... so people will have a good idea what to look for. Thanks for your time.
love it, taking battery testing to the next level
I feel grateful this reconditioning program th-cam.com/users/postUgkxcJ22tnHH9l1vjdIdEIG27iOG55P7LXI8 was started. I had Three dead batteries scheduled for disposing of. Having said that, I tried out reconditioning them and it took me only an hour to do it! It doesn`t matter what type of battery you want, the process works.
Generally, no water is good for a sealed cell. If you are referring to a flooded battery such as one you may find in a car, then you must use distilled water, else the chlorine and other chemicals/minerals in normal tap water will destroy your flooded battery's plates.
Followed your instructions, I found bunch NOS 2032 batteries are junk. terminal voltage reads about 3.1-3.2V without load. But when I connect to 5K load, nearly all of those 15 years old batteries drop to 0.7V.
Thanks, TechBench, I never knew what the numbers stood for! I learned something today! Thank you.
Indeed, 2032=20mm diameter, 3.2mm thick.
So a 1616 cell is 16mm in diameter and 1.6mm thick.
It's an effective, yet simple way to indicate the battery size.
Well, I'm confuse. I have 3 old batteries CR2032/DL2032/CR2032 all 3 are from different manufacturers (Panasonic/Duracell/Sony respectively), which I tried to use in a bathroom scale and none of them worked. The scale would work intermittently or not at all.
No load: was 3.1v/3.03v/3.05v respectively
Load (4.7Kohm, actually measures 4.96K ohms): 2.95v/2.96v/2.96v respectively
But none of them would work. I was expecting the values to be below 2.8v under load. Why? Shouldn't they still work at 2.95 or 2.96v?
Bought a new battery and the scale is working.
Hi. Gathering the parts to make a variable resistor box. Quick question. Did you wire the variable resistor in series or parallel? Thanks!
In Rf and IR remotes that is why adding extra decoupling capacitors prolongs cell life, it will work to give single pulses till the cell is under 2V open circuit. I use anything between 10 and 47uF SMD tantalum, whatever will fit and whatever I pull off old boards and any voltage above 16V for 12V. 2 coin cell remotes 10V works, and there you might fit 100uF in the case.
That is certainly an interesting idea. Do you have information on what the current drain from the capacitor would be if you place a tantalum capacitor in parallel with the coin cell?
TechBench Under 500nA of current for good capacitors. See www.vishay.com/docs/49268/tn0003.pdf for more.
Basically reduces life by a few weeks but improves pulse performance.
+TechBench i found a box of lithium batteries, button duracell DL1620B. it says best if use by 2005. do you think these batteries are still good? what is the shelf life of a button lithium battery?
batteries are all in the box unopened
Normally those button cells have a shelf life of about 10 years, so it's likely that they will all fail very soon after taking them into use. Test them! :-)
thank you for responding , i bought an LED light 3-8 VDC my battery is 3 volts. it is working fine right now. how long do you think before the battery drains if the battery is good?
note: the LED that i bought is a blinker or it blinks
What is an affordable but reliable universal battery tester in including the cr 2032?
You don't mention which country you are from, but in general, you should be able to just search for "button cell tester" and that will render the desired results for under 10 yankee bucks.
Umm can you write the steps in measuring the voltage of the BIOS battery...please need it
Being a total newbie I wish you would have said what to set your Multimeter on. I have the older cheaper type that is not digital.
Phew, analogue meters (the kind with the needle) can still be used, but you likely will not get the amount of detail you need. Set your analogue meter to a voltage scale that is just above the voltage you intend to measure. In this case, you expect around 3 volts. Set your meter to the 5V or 10V scale and measure the battery.
a really great video .. many thanks .. do you think you might make the video on building your variable resistance box? your set up looks so neat connected to the multi meter. For a novice your explanations and method was really helpful!
i check it by if it doesn't work any more then i get another one. or if i'm in a pinch, i'll connect a 12v 10 amp car battery charger to it for maybe 20 seconds. that usually get it going again.
Hi TechBench
are you able to please explain further on what 100 ohms resistor test actually does to coin cell battery here?
It simulates a load on the cell. It means you are measuring the battery voltage *while it is in use* which is a more accurate reflection of the battery's state than just measuring it without any load.
My old Radio Shack Micronta 22-188 has two plug-ins for the positive lead. One has a lightning bolt one does not. Which one should I use to check a battery?
The Micronta 22-188 (like most good multimeters) have separate plugs for current and voltage measurement. The right-hand plug (with the lightning bolt) is used for DC and AC volts. The left-hand plug is used for current and will typically have A or mA designations.
You want to use the DC Voltage measurement (along with a load resistor) to check battery voltage.
Thank you for your reply. I considered just trying each plug but I didn't want to ruin the multi-meter by feeding current where it shouldn't go. Unfortunately I have misplaced the manual. I was surprised that I got a reading of 3.03v on a CR2032 because it has been in a tire pressure gauge for several years.
Putting a load resistor on the CR2032 will show it's "true colours" :-)
I don't think this meter has the function that adds resistance. And I'm not sure I have the skills to make a load resistor but I might give it a try when I get some time.
@@TechBench in series or parallel?
Thanks! Very helpful and thorough. Much appreciated.
could I use any load instate of variable resistance
If I use a 4.7 K Ohm resistor, how many Watts should it be? 1/4 or 1/2 or something else? Thank you for a great video.
1/4 watt would be more than sufficient, but any higher value (1/2 watt, 1 watt) will also do if you cannot lay your hands on a 1/4 watt resistor).
all this work to test, i might as well buy a new one
It's a labour of love! :-)
Also, the more stuff we can keep out of landfills, the better.
@@TechBench I stand corrected, I tested a bad cmos using your video. Luckily my volts were below 1, didn't have to test further. Thanks
That battery datasheet says capacity 210mAh
After some time use, how to measure capacity left??
Unfortunately, the only way to know how much is left is to measure how much was used while power is being drained. Very few devices do this. An alternative way would be to measure the current draw and work that into how long the battery has been in use.
How did you make that variable resistance box?
Simply put: I used a 10 kilo-ohm 10-turn potentiometer with a 10-turn dial. Since both are 10-turn, the values work out nicely so as to scale along with the reading on the dial.
Very clearly presented and helpful. Thanks.
Thanks for your very informative video.
Just wondering whether it would also be possible to measure the current (max milli Amps) using a DMM etc by placing the meter probes on each side of the battery terminals? or even through a current limiting resistor in-line with one of the probes?
A flat battery should have a very low current reading when shorted through the meter and I can't imagine a fully charged 3V cell this small being able to push more than a few hundred milliamps when new.
You are, of course, correct that you can measure the dead-short current capability, but the result will not give you an reliable indication of how full/empty the cell is. Since different cells have varying internal resistances, there is no specific scale either.
In addition, you can easily blow your meter's mA fuse by measuring even just a slightly larger battery (such as a AAA).
Even this is a very basic topic, the information was pretty interesting and clear presented.
usual case is to test some used batteries. any. if its 1.5 and measures 0.5 - bin it. if 1.4-1.6 you still had chances to use it.
Is the load resistance placed in series or parallel?
The battery, push-button switch and resistor are in series (i.e. they are all connected end-to-end), but effectively we put the load resistor in parallel with the battery for the duration of the button press. Hope that makes sense!
@@TechBench Yes, thanks! In the meantime I found an old Radio Shack tester that tests 3V button batteries.
Amazing. Should be how Electricals be taught in schools..
Hello where can I buy the var Resistor tester Thanks
- Hello. You don't say from which country you are, but you can buy them almost anywhere. Online, look on eBay and search for "multiturn potentiometer". You will also get some results for the knob.
I am in the USA I will look thanks The 2032 are a pain to check to see if they are good. Thanks
But the Multi turn Pot is not set up like the one you have, Did you make it? Thanks
TechBench
If you recharge this cells again they are good to go ?
No, the CR-series are not rechargeable, but the LIR-series and ML-series are. Just be careful about the voltages and make sure that your device can correctly charge these batteries.
What is output voltage when using 15k resister
If you place the 15k resistor over the poles of the coin cell and measure the voltage, it should be pretty close to the 3V measurement of the cell. The 15k resistor load means it will only draw about (3V/15kohm)=0.0002A (or 200μA) of current. That's a tiny amount of current!
Great video! Can you tell me where I can buy that resistance box?
+fellows55 Thanks! I built the resistance box myself, but it's really easy to do. It's a 10k ohm, 10-turn potentiometer with a 10-turn rotary dial. Perhaps I should make a really short video on how to do that.
I see similar kits are available here:
www.ebay.com/itm/New-10K-Ohm-3590S-2-103L-Potentiometer-With-10-Turn-Counting-Dial-Rotary-Knob-/281782868179
+TechBench Thanks for the info! I think I am going to try and make one for myself. If you do make a video on how to make one that would be great and I will watch. Thanks again!
+TechBench
Did you get around to making that short video?
How is the potentiometer connected to 10k?
Essentially potentiometer *is* the 10k resistor, only it's variable. In other words, if I turn it all the way to the one side, it is 10k ohm, but if I turn it all the way to the other side, it's 0 ohm. The adjustment knob is just nicely marked out in 1k increments.
@@TechBench Thanks!
Very informative. Thank you!
Excellent Presentation !!!
great video, very useful, thanks
Thank you for this video. Very clear.
+Иван Пронин Always happy to see feedback that it helps people. Thanks.
Awesome!!!! Excactly the info I was looking for
You are the Master!
brilliant. very informative!
Great content!
bat-tree?
:-D
Legend's using tongue for testing
Very helpfull, thank you!
Thank you
that was a lot of fun, thanks
thank you very much
?????
Hi hi hi:)
7 mins to tell what can be taught in 2 mins.