One more that is good, I forgot to mention. A Dado blade for wood mounted on a larger tool post grinder, used that set-up for truing large off-road tires, for on-highway use.
I've made a tool to cut rubber out of a piece of bandsaw blade formed into a loop and welded to a piece of key stock that will fitting the tool post holder. the loop is sharpened on top and the stringer goes through the loop. I got the idea from my pottery days-a potter's trim tool. worked pretty well.
I wanted to reduce the diameter on two wheelie-bin wheels and tyres. I had no idea how to do it, but after watching this I followed your advice and took the bulk off by just cutting the tyre on my bandsaw. Using the finest toothed blade I had I found the saw cut it without problem. I then trued up the tyres on my wood lathe using a skew chisel. I was surprised how easily the rubber cut, but it did blunt the tool really quickly. I think it was a lower-density rubber than you are cutting, but I had no problem cutting it just like I would with wood. Thank you for posting this informative video, without it I would not have dared to try!
Back in the 70s we used to make special seals and whatnot for Sandia National Laboratory from neoprene rubber. We immersed the neoprene in liquid nitrogen and then it could be machined for a few minutes before it had to be cooled down again. Cut very nicely with sharp high speed tools.
At work we mostly turn down rubber rollers on the lathe, we use a carbide insert, actually feeding left to right, the way we do it it results one continous string chip, that's the reason for the feed direction, we make sure it misses the toolpost and use a piece of cardboard at the beginning to make it miss the chuck. We also always cut it dry, the requirement for us is surface finish, since it's printing rollers, our method makes less mess that grinding
I worked with really soft rubber back in the 90's and the way I was taught was to make a HSS tool with a knife edge on the front so the blade was parallel to the lathe axis then leave a crotch on the left face of the tool that will cut the waste into a string. When the stringer becomes a problem then interrupt the feed.
2 years ago i was machining some 3D printed TPU with "hardness" of ~85A. Used CCGT 120404 ALX inserts for aluminium that we had lying around, uncoated, polished, iirc 19° positive rake. Worked like a charm tho a fresh ground HSS tool would have been my second shot. Just don't transport em in your pockets if you don't wanna have your pants dripping in blood... Thanks for sharing!
The hole saw idea, I think I would have come up with a mounting solution for that so you didn’t have to mess with the seals. Good information by the way.
i have made deep hole saws buy welding 2 together. you slice off the teeth from the first one on the lathe with a parting tool then the next one you part off from the base . then stack them and use a mig or tig to join them.
I haven’t machined rubber but plenty of polyurethane. That’s sometimes best to freeze if it’s a soft mix. I’m suprised you throw the scrap rubber on the floor when you have to pick it up off the floor, why not throw it directly into a trash can.
I used to do this on very rare occasion ages ago. I had a 3/4" tool blank, and I ground the top like a ski jump so that the knife was facing upwards. This would cut ribbons, but big wide ribbons.
We had limited success at dry ice on rubber,By the time you got it to the lathe ,it got to warm ,it worked somewhat ,We would use the knife method normally ,Thank You For Your Videos !!!
You always have measurement accuracy problems with rubber, it moves when being measured. On the other hand rubber is flexible enough, that it is ok, just to be close, most of the time
I have turned the OD down on Poly Bushings to fit shackles ....by simply placing them in the freeze for awhile first, they turned excellent I have to turn down a rubber seal for a Hydraulic ram so watched this video, I will knife my cutting tool and try it
The original outside form of the rubber was not true, so chucking/squaring each one would have taken extra time, negating the speed of the hole saw method.
The quickest, easiest way is grinding. I've done it a zillion times. Cutting it with a tool doesn't work very well at all, plus it can get dangerous in a hurry. I've even cut threads in rubber that way. You also will find you have to feed it the correct direction. You can get a toolpost grinder, or do it on a surface grinder.
I had no idea you were a Mohel, so good with a knife! Jokes aside have you seen the gold chain jewelry vids of them freezing chain to a chilled drum with water? (ps: might be common knowledge in your machinist circles but being an electrician I never heard of the technique )
I wanted to cut some hard rubber lacross balls in half and tried to use a wood band saw holding it by hand and it threw the ball and blew the blade off the bandsaw scared me good. Now I am scared of cutting rubber.,
i do rubber and ill send you the name of the machine i use and you can check it out i cut it first then grind it on a od grinder to get it sized just rig
but but but WD-40 ISN"T A LUBRICANT! sob cry wah... if i had a dime for every time some monkey argued with me about that ... cause it sure works good as a lubricant... Also cutting rubber and plastic SUCKS
I mean, it is a lubricant if you just need a cutting tool to slip and it's only gotta last for all of fifteen seconds. It's NOT a suitable lubricant if we're talking about motorcycle chains for example, which are under much bigger loads for a much longer time. It's way too light and evaporates fairly quickly. Even water is a good lubricant in some cases (e.g. sharpening with stones) but it can't replace proper greases and oils for mechanical lubrication. WD40 is rarely a proper choice of lubricant.
One more that is good, I forgot to mention. A Dado blade for wood mounted on a larger tool post grinder, used that set-up for truing large off-road tires, for on-highway use.
I've made a tool to cut rubber out of a piece of bandsaw blade formed into a loop and welded to a piece of key stock that will fitting the tool post holder. the loop is sharpened on top and the stringer goes through the loop. I got the idea from my pottery days-a potter's trim tool. worked pretty well.
The younger generation appreciates the education. Thank you. Thank you!
Very much so 👍
i've said it before i'll say it again your channel is a real gem on youtube. thank you.
I wanted to reduce the diameter on two wheelie-bin wheels and tyres. I had no idea how to do it, but after watching this I followed your advice and took the bulk off by just cutting the tyre on my bandsaw. Using the finest toothed blade I had I found the saw cut it without problem. I then trued up the tyres on my wood lathe using a skew chisel. I was surprised how easily the rubber cut, but it did blunt the tool really quickly.
I think it was a lower-density rubber than you are cutting, but I had no problem cutting it just like I would with wood.
Thank you for posting this informative video, without it I would not have dared to try!
Back in the 70s we used to make special seals and whatnot for Sandia National Laboratory from neoprene rubber. We immersed the neoprene in liquid nitrogen and then it could be machined for a few minutes before it had to be cooled down again. Cut very nicely with sharp high speed tools.
At work we mostly turn down rubber rollers on the lathe, we use a carbide insert, actually feeding left to right, the way we do it it results one continous string chip, that's the reason for the feed direction, we make sure it misses the toolpost and use a piece of cardboard at the beginning to make it miss the chuck. We also always cut it dry, the requirement for us is surface finish, since it's printing rollers, our method makes less mess that grinding
😮 i had no idea you could turn rubber on the lathe.
Fascinating work.
The lathe is a revolutionary tool.
Could you show the lathe tool you ground? Thanks.
I worked with really soft rubber back in the 90's and the way I was taught was to make a HSS tool with a knife edge on the front so the blade was parallel to the lathe axis then leave a crotch on the left face of the tool that will cut the waste into a string. When the stringer becomes a problem then interrupt the feed.
We use a cylindrical grinder..crush grind it in no time..coolant works great..rubber any durometer
2 years ago i was machining some 3D printed TPU with "hardness" of ~85A. Used CCGT 120404 ALX inserts for aluminium that we had lying around, uncoated, polished, iirc 19° positive rake. Worked like a charm tho a fresh ground HSS tool would have been my second shot. Just don't transport em in your pockets if you don't wanna have your pants dripping in blood...
Thanks for sharing!
Love your work Howie🍻🇦🇺
I reccomend milling a slot from front to back, it will be an interupted cut to break those long stinger bird nests.
The hole saw idea, I think I would have come up with a mounting solution for that so you didn’t have to mess with the seals. Good information by the way.
Somehow I think it would bind up on both sides of the hole saw with nowhere for the chips to escape and the heat and the flexibility of the matrl.
Great topic, thanks for sharing your experience.
i have made deep hole saws buy welding 2 together. you slice off the teeth from the first one on the lathe with a parting tool then the next one you part off from the base . then stack them and use a mig or tig to join them.
I haven’t machined rubber but plenty of polyurethane.
That’s sometimes best to freeze if it’s a soft mix.
I’m suprised you throw the scrap rubber on the floor when you have to pick it up off the floor, why not throw it directly into a trash can.
Turned a lot of nylon and Delrin and would pull the "string" directly into a trashcan by my side, nothing to clean up.
tool post grinder or coarse sandpaper works well, removes soft and hard durometer rubbers very quickly
I used to do this on very rare occasion ages ago. I had a 3/4" tool blank, and I ground the top like a ski jump so that the knife was facing upwards. This would cut ribbons, but big wide ribbons.
We had limited success at dry ice on rubber,By the time you got it to the lathe ,it got to warm ,it worked somewhat ,We would use the knife method normally ,Thank You For Your Videos !!!
So like a hand plane ?
Thoikle sno cats are fun! The one i drove had the strait 6 and auto trans from an old mustang.
Wouldn’t there be an issue with freezing then machining rubber with it expanding when it warms up and being out of tolerance?
You always have measurement accuracy problems with rubber, it moves when being measured. On the other hand rubber is flexible enough, that it is ok, just to be close, most of the time
I have turned the OD down on Poly Bushings to fit shackles
....by simply placing them in the freeze for awhile first, they turned excellent
I have to turn down a rubber seal for a Hydraulic ram so watched this video, I will knife my cutting tool and try it
Could you have held the wheel from the outside, and used a hole saw? maybe with screwin pins? just thinking out loud here...
The original outside form of the rubber was not true, so chucking/squaring each one would have taken extra time, negating the speed of the hole saw method.
Was john ever in the military?
The quickest, easiest way is grinding. I've done it a zillion times. Cutting it with a tool doesn't work very well at all, plus it can get dangerous in a hurry. I've even cut threads in rubber that way. You also will find you have to feed it the correct direction. You can get a toolpost grinder, or do it on a surface grinder.
You are too cool! Cheers!
I had no idea you were a Mohel, so good with a knife! Jokes aside have you seen the gold chain jewelry vids of them freezing chain to a chilled drum with water? (ps: might be common knowledge in your machinist circles but being an electrician I never heard of the technique )
When a man in denim coveralls speaks on tricks of the trade…you shut up and listen
I wanted to cut some hard rubber lacross balls in half and tried to use a wood band saw holding it by hand and it threw the ball and blew the blade off the bandsaw scared me good. Now I am scared of cutting rubber.,
i do rubber and ill send you the name of the machine i use and you can check it out i cut it first then grind it on a od grinder to get it sized just rig
but but but WD-40 ISN"T A LUBRICANT! sob cry wah... if i had a dime for every time some monkey argued with me about that ... cause it sure works good as a lubricant...
Also cutting rubber and plastic SUCKS
I mean, it is a lubricant if you just need a cutting tool to slip and it's only gotta last for all of fifteen seconds. It's NOT a suitable lubricant if we're talking about motorcycle chains for example, which are under much bigger loads for a much longer time. It's way too light and evaporates fairly quickly. Even water is a good lubricant in some cases (e.g. sharpening with stones) but it can't replace proper greases and oils for mechanical lubrication. WD40 is rarely a proper choice of lubricant.
@@SqueakyNeb theres another dime...
@@northmanlogging2769you're that bitter about being wrong all the time?
@@SqueakyNebyou can't argue with people like this. Best to just let them stay stupid and move on.
@@desertdweller9548 see i'd be rich i tell ya
I guess the camera man didn't have the heart to tell him he missed a wide strand of hair in the back when he did his self haircut 😂.