This is my first sword with that style and it also the loudest sword I’ve heard. I don’t know if that has anything to do with it but it is extremely loud either way.
@@StudioGDT it’s definitely starting to show up a bit more in the “Chinese manufacturers” as of late. You see lots of nihonto with that. The only “non -Japanese” that I could think of that did that was Thiatsuki , HSTS and Skijiro. I am sure there were more but mainstream budget brands never did till now!
Really like the lack of menuki. I always discard them when rewrapping the handle. Also the bo-hi termination and yokote make it look more expensive than $200. Right on
Thank you Sir. For 200 it does pack a punch I think albeit with no frills-but for many this could be just what they are looking for-one of my Kyokai students just ordered one in fact since he wasn’t sure what type of sugata or koshirae theme he wanted to invest in yet.
@@StudioGDT There was a time that I forbade new students from purchasing swords with bohi; it often makes a less than true cut sound good. I told them, "Show me that you can make a plain blade whistle first, then you can use whatever you wish." I have softened since. Given that these swords are just heavier by nature, the hi are almost necessary to give them a workable balance.
@@williammaren1681 I would have to agree, for a student doing homework in a quiet space. I think there's value in the bohi tho. It could make it more fun in class to hear the rip. Often there could be someone talking, or feet shuffling, so a little louder can be a good thing. Also helps to build confidence. For practicing by myself, I never rely on the bohi. Either the cut is good or it isn't. Would propose the primary value is the lighter weight, to allow for longer training duration.
@@williammaren1681 interesting. When I order an aluminum iaito I will forgo the bo-hi. I've got it on my steel iaito but just for weight reasons, I find it hard to keep up in class with an already heavier sword than everybody else.
195 dollars ,so cheap I find it difficult to think it's a good sword 1095 is the bottom end,as I think ,y have t10 Seen chipped on bone S5 katana that seems to be what a lot of people want ,I only hold 1 katana tamahangane from swordier 😊 that brings its own qualities but limitations
Personally, I have full confidence in a properly heat treated 1095 sword. I wouldn’t even consider 1060 “bottom end” from a metallurgical standpoint. Many tamahagane nihonto (not reproductions sold as tamahagane which they are not) are equal in hardness and strength with steels like T10 and 1095 as well as other modern steels surpassing that. Hard edges will chip at some point. It’s all about quality control and processes as not all items are treated equally. Purely my opinion however. Thanks for watching!
Yes, exactly! Most of our modern steels are so damn good, the only real factor is the quality of the tempering. I've had 1045 steel that held up beautifully well, because the tempering was good. Tempering is key.
@@KF1thanks for helping me not think I’m crazy lol. I’m actually going to take a little more time with 1060 in order to dispel (hopefully if the MFG did their job right) the myths about 1060 being unsuitable. I have a 1060 YariNoHanzo in the stable as a start.
That's a well thought out practitioners sword. Great job RyanSword.
Then I get caught up watching ryansword videos...
HA!
I like the placement of the bo-hi ,starting a bit up from the habaki rather than running underneath!
This is my first sword with that style and it also the loudest sword I’ve heard. I don’t know if that has anything to do with it but it is extremely loud either way.
@@StudioGDT it’s definitely starting to show up a bit more in the “Chinese manufacturers” as of late. You see lots of nihonto with that. The only “non -Japanese” that I could think of that did that was Thiatsuki , HSTS and Skijiro. I am sure there were more but mainstream budget brands never did till now!
@@aaronmatheson9730with it running under the habaki you could hide poor work…this is out there for the world to see so it better be clean!
@@StudioGDT agreed my brother!!
tozando and iaito manufactures actually charge more for the bo-hi that continues under the habaki.
Great review!, you gave me a great idea of what this sword is about, Ryansword has had their ups and downs I own a Ryansword and I like it much😁
They will be the first to admit past mistakes and they definitely learned from them. One of my favorite brands.
See Samurai Byrd and his Ryansword naginata saga.
Really like the lack of menuki. I always discard them when rewrapping the handle. Also the bo-hi termination and yokote make it look more expensive than $200. Right on
Thank you Sir. For 200 it does pack a punch I think albeit with no frills-but for many this could be just what they are looking for-one of my Kyokai students just ordered one in fact since he wasn’t sure what type of sugata or koshirae theme he wanted to invest in yet.
@@StudioGDT There was a time that I forbade new students from purchasing swords with bohi; it often makes a less than true cut sound good. I told them, "Show me that you can make a plain blade whistle first, then you can use whatever you wish." I have softened since. Given that these swords are just heavier by nature, the hi are almost necessary to give them a workable balance.
@@williammaren1681 I would have to agree, for a student doing homework in a quiet space. I think there's value in the bohi tho. It could make it more fun in class to hear the rip. Often there could be someone talking, or feet shuffling, so a little louder can be a good thing. Also helps to build confidence.
For practicing by myself, I never rely on the bohi. Either the cut is good or it isn't.
Would propose the primary value is the lighter weight, to allow for longer training duration.
@@williammaren1681that makes complete sense to me Sensei. Thank you for commenting on the subject!
@@williammaren1681 interesting. When I order an aluminum iaito I will forgo the bo-hi. I've got it on my steel iaito but just for weight reasons, I find it hard to keep up in class with an already heavier sword than everybody else.
Still a nice looking sword
It won’t win any beauty contests, but it will get the job done and if you trash it on a bad cut, it didn’t cost you a fortune to buy.
@@StudioGDT smiles ,again very true ,makes cutting interesting as y know its about form which I have little 😀
@@StudioGDT no bohi so y know when Yr correct in swing as in swish
195 dollars ,so cheap I find it difficult to think it's a good sword 1095 is the bottom end,as I think ,y have t10
Seen chipped on bone
S5 katana that seems to be what a lot of people want ,I only hold 1 katana tamahangane from swordier 😊 that brings its own qualities but limitations
Personally, I have full confidence in a properly heat treated 1095 sword. I wouldn’t even consider 1060 “bottom end” from a metallurgical standpoint. Many tamahagane nihonto (not reproductions sold as tamahagane which they are not) are equal in hardness and strength with steels like T10 and 1095 as well as other modern steels surpassing that. Hard edges will chip at some point. It’s all about quality control and processes as not all items are treated equally. Purely my opinion however. Thanks for watching!
@@StudioGDT very true 👍
Yes, exactly! Most of our modern steels are so damn good, the only real factor is the quality of the tempering. I've had 1045 steel that held up beautifully well, because the tempering was good. Tempering is key.
@@KF1thanks for helping me not think I’m crazy lol. I’m actually going to take a little more time with 1060 in order to dispel (hopefully if the MFG did their job right) the myths about 1060 being unsuitable. I have a 1060 YariNoHanzo in the stable as a start.
@@StudioGDT Hey if it's strong enough to work for the frame of your truck, it's strong enough to cut some oak dowels wrapped in mats. No contest!