Had the xtracker hubs installed in my c5 Z06 track car. After two track days the bolts holding the front left hub loosened to finger tight. Shop had not applied thread locker. Don’t forget to do this. Or better yet, new bolts are only about $6 with the GM two-part epoxy applied. I went with new bolts for peace of mind.
Great video, I’m searching online for them and having a difficult time finding the part numbers for these with extended ARP studs. Could you post your part number for these installed in video. Appreciate your work!
I did my fronts on my C5 Z06 with the SKF x Tracker bearing in January 2021, and they've been holding strong. I didn't do my rears at the time because I had no issues with them although putting my car in the air after my last track day the passenger bearing finally gave up. I'm going to replace the rears this winter but given that I only run track days on semi sticky Hankook RS4's I'm hoping they're a "lifetime" part. I love all the articles you have on the C5 Z06!
Thanks! Yes, the initial buy-in on the SKFs hurts a bit. But when you realize how fragile stock-style hubs can be you realize they pay for themselves fairly quickly.
Axis of rotation is perpendicular to the plane of motion. Meaning when you're grabbing the bottom of the wheel and shaking it "in and out" of the car, your axis of rotation would be along the car / parallel with the car.
Nice video. What do you think about timken and moog? Im about to get some skf's most likely. I can only find moog rears. And dont want different brands. Any input on different brands hubs on the car at same time?
We used both those other brands and they never lasted more than a few track days when we ran sticky tires. For an autocross car, or occasional track weekends, you might get away with it, but we spent a lot of money trying to "save" money on non SKF hubs and it never worked out for us.
@Grassroots Motorsports wow that's crazy. Skfs are the real deal. Havent heard 1 bad thing about them other than price lol thanks for testing that out and your response!
According to SKF, the rears should not be installed up front. I know lots of track guys do this (including me) but SKF told me that the rears are not designed for the lateral forces that the fronts are subjected to.
Anybody know the hub mounting dimensions for a c5 hub? I'm trying to see if they will fit a blazer spindle. I know they use the same size mounting bolt.
I'm thinking this is a solid winter project for myself. Doesn't seem crazy to do. I may just do the rears first then the fronts. Is it okay to just run the regular wheel studs versus ARP extended? I'm on stock hubs and studs and don't have any complaints but maybe there's something I don't know?
Yeah you can run the stock studs just fine. Just remember that wheel studs are definitely wear items as well. If you're constantly changing wheels, wheel studs and nuts should be checked a few times a year and replaced every season or two.
@@Grassrootsmotorsports good point on checking and changing them! If you don't need extended studs, why do people run them? Do the ARP studs last longer?
@@shredandenjoy7311 It opens up a bunch of possibilities of different wheel and spacer combos. The stock 2” studs are just barely adequate length for the stock wheels without spacers. The cheap way on a Z to run the really hot tires (I can’t remember which ones everybody wants now) is to run the rear wheels from a non-Z C5 on the front. This requires wheel spacers and hence longer studs. The reason you go with the aforementioned rear wheels on the front is because the tire companies don’t make those super sticky tires in the sizes that a C5Z’S front wheels are. Besides that, I think they just say “race car” to those who know.
My c5 has the abs light on and diagnostic said it was the two from speed sensors . I don’t go to the track my car is stock . It is my daily what brand would be good ? I just don’t want to deal with this issue anytime soon again
The standard SKF hubs are fairly good for a street car as well. Also, check the grounds in the engine bay on the frame rails. They can corrode over time and throw wheel sensor codes.
@@Grassrootsmotorsports I will have to check that out ! Because the two rear sensors are fine. Here in Colorado they will fail the smog /emissions test if the Abs light is on
Had the xtracker hubs installed in my c5 Z06 track car. After two track days the bolts holding the front left hub loosened to finger tight. Shop had not applied thread locker. Don’t forget to do this. Or better yet, new bolts are only about $6 with the GM two-part epoxy applied. I went with new bolts for peace of mind.
Always a watch when the corvette comes back on here.
These guys do such a great job with everything they do.
Great video, I’m searching online for them and having a difficult time finding the part numbers for these with extended ARP studs.
Could you post your part number for these installed in video. Appreciate your work!
I did my fronts on my C5 Z06 with the SKF x Tracker bearing in January 2021, and they've been holding strong. I didn't do my rears at the time because I had no issues with them although putting my car in the air after my last track day the passenger bearing finally gave up. I'm going to replace the rears this winter but given that I only run track days on semi sticky Hankook RS4's I'm hoping they're a "lifetime" part. I love all the articles you have on the C5 Z06!
Thanks! Yes, the initial buy-in on the SKFs hurts a bit. But when you realize how fragile stock-style hubs can be you realize they pay for themselves fairly quickly.
I haven’t seen a video with this car for quite a while. Nice! Thanks
Nice video. Thanks!
Great advice and an excellent succinct presentation. Thanks GRM!
Thank you for this video.
Great instructional video. Helped out immensely.
Glad it helped
Excellent instruction video!
Glad it was helpful!
Axis of rotation is perpendicular to the plane of motion. Meaning when you're grabbing the bottom of the wheel and shaking it "in and out" of the car, your axis of rotation would be along the car / parallel with the car.
whats the PN for these bearings? just want to make sure I get the correct ones
Had to put two on the rear of my c5 at 75 thousand miles
Nice video. What do you think about timken and moog? Im about to get some skf's most likely. I can only find moog rears. And dont want different brands. Any input on different brands hubs on the car at same time?
We used both those other brands and they never lasted more than a few track days when we ran sticky tires. For an autocross car, or occasional track weekends, you might get away with it, but we spent a lot of money trying to "save" money on non SKF hubs and it never worked out for us.
@Grassroots Motorsports wow that's crazy. Skfs are the real deal. Havent heard 1 bad thing about them other than price lol thanks for testing that out and your response!
According to SKF, the rears should not be installed up front. I know lots of track guys do this (including me) but SKF told me that the rears are not designed for the lateral forces that the fronts are subjected to.
Do you reapply thread lock on the 3 fasteners for the hub?
Anybody know the hub mounting dimensions for a c5 hub? I'm trying to see if they will fit a blazer spindle. I know they use the same size mounting bolt.
I'm thinking this is a solid winter project for myself. Doesn't seem crazy to do. I may just do the rears first then the fronts.
Is it okay to just run the regular wheel studs versus ARP extended? I'm on stock hubs and studs and don't have any complaints but maybe there's something I don't know?
Yeah you can run the stock studs just fine. Just remember that wheel studs are definitely wear items as well. If you're constantly changing wheels, wheel studs and nuts should be checked a few times a year and replaced every season or two.
@@Grassrootsmotorsports good point on checking and changing them!
If you don't need extended studs, why do people run them? Do the ARP studs last longer?
@@shredandenjoy7311 It opens up a bunch of possibilities of different wheel and spacer combos. The stock 2” studs are just barely adequate length for the stock wheels without spacers. The cheap way on a Z to run the really hot tires (I can’t remember which ones everybody wants now) is to run the rear wheels from a non-Z C5 on the front. This requires wheel spacers and hence longer studs. The reason you go with the aforementioned rear wheels on the front is because the tire companies don’t make those super sticky tires in the sizes that a C5Z’S front wheels are.
Besides that, I think they just say “race car” to those who know.
@@failranch9542 noted. I'm running the Apex sm10 ET57 with 305/35r18. No issue with the wheel studs with those which is nice.
My c5 has the abs light on and diagnostic said it was the two from speed sensors . I don’t go to the track my car is stock . It is my daily what brand would be good ? I just don’t want to deal with this issue anytime soon again
The standard SKF hubs are fairly good for a street car as well. Also, check the grounds in the engine bay on the frame rails. They can corrode over time and throw wheel sensor codes.
@@Grassrootsmotorsports I will have to check that out ! Because the two rear sensors are fine. Here in Colorado they will fail the smog /emissions test if the Abs light is on