Awesome video!!!! I’m in the process of redoing 1984 Honda ATC 200ES rear fenders. I was afraid to put the heat to them, after watching this I’m not afraid to heat them lol. Thanks for making this. I as well ride my stuff in the woods and silt pits, so I want them to be nice, but still rideable.
Wow! Thank you for the kind words. Work your way up on the heat steps, keep moving, and push it along. You'll see the shine pushing away the dullness once you're doing it. I'm really happy to help, and thank you for watching. 😃
Don't know why people trip when someone takes care of there stuff and makes it look good.....they don't make these machines anymore so....restore it...especially the plastics
True words here. I agree with you ##savesportquads. Plastics are not cheap either, so if the oem just need some love, to me, it's worth the try. I know you can go another level of effort in restoration, but I plan to ride this machine. If it was too nice, i wouldn't want to get her dirty. Lol. Thank you for watching, my friend.
@viceanime7685 Don't feel defeated, my friend. These plastics and bikes take a beating. I'm surprised the materials used from back then haven't become so brittle, they crack just from looking at them at this point. It's really nice we still have the aftermarket option. ##savesportquads
After the process, I cleaned the area where the decals were going to go with some auto paint prep cleaner or like a windex without alcohol. Then, I applied the decals. Mine are still holding up just fine, and they're cheap replica decals. I hope your works out, too. Thanks for watching.
I don't know the condition of your plastics. You can start with a higher grit in a small area around where maybe you boot is to see how it's going to go. I understand being cautious, but wet sanding plastic is not like when wet sanding a painted item. I hope things work out for what you're looking for. Thank you for reaching out.
Also the sanding is to clean and smooth out the roughness. The heat brings out the gloss. Throughout the steps they'll look cleaner, smoother and dull. Then, brighten back out with heat. Then I toss on the shine protectant to really brighten her up and help condition the plastics too
The red I was thinking the same after a ride, but even after a wash and a recoat of the shine restorer seemed to bring it right back. I haven't tried on all red or black plastics and those, I'm not sure yet. Thanks for sharing your input and watching the video.
I see a lot of comments about how heat only works for a short time. I can see if you are only using heat, but if you sand off the top layers and get down to into the plastic, why would it not maintain the shine at least as long as it did the first time? Also, what if you sand it down, use heat to make it shine, and then apply as plastic adhesion promoter and about 5 layers of clear coat on top? Would that outer clear coat protect the shine? I’m asking because I am considering doing this on the plastics of a red 1985 Honda ATC 110.
@@coachwilson954 I would think clear coat on the plastic is a bad idea because it doesn’t have flex. And the clear will just crack. So it would shine but be cracked.
Def not comparing to new oem or even new aftermarket plastics. It's just a budget friendly way to take the bike from looking old & tired to clean & way more attractive. Thank you for watching. I'm going to run her hard and will at some point do an honest follow-up.
I see a lot of comments about how heat only works for a short time. I can see if you are only using heat, but if you sand off the top layers and get down to into the plastic, why would it not maintain the shine at least as long as it did the first time? Also, what if you sand it down, use heat to make it shine, and then apply as plastic adhesion promoter and about 5 layers of clear coat on top? Would that outer clear coat protect the shine? I’m asking because I am considering doing this on the plastics of a red 1985 Honda ATC 110.
The gray and red both came out clean and bright for 1987 plastics. I wasn't going into a deeper buffing process with an atv that would be ridden on the trails again. Thanks for watching.
Awesome video!!!! I’m in the process of redoing 1984 Honda ATC 200ES rear fenders. I was afraid to put the heat to them, after watching this I’m not afraid to heat them lol. Thanks for making this. I as well ride my stuff in the woods and silt pits, so I want them to be nice, but still rideable.
Wow! Thank you for the kind words. Work your way up on the heat steps, keep moving, and push it along. You'll see the shine pushing away the dullness once you're doing it. I'm really happy to help, and thank you for watching. 😃
Don't know why people trip when someone takes care of there stuff and makes it look good.....they don't make these machines anymore so....restore it...especially the plastics
True words here. I agree with you ##savesportquads. Plastics are not cheap either, so if the oem just need some love, to me, it's worth the try. I know you can go another level of effort in restoration, but I plan to ride this machine. If it was too nice, i wouldn't want to get her dirty. Lol. Thank you for watching, my friend.
bro, its funny i looked up how to sand atv plastics and this the same quad i got 😂😂
😆 #savesportquads
Thanks for watching, I hope you can save yours, too.
@@NOURSEPOWER thinking of just buying maiers mine have huge gouges and chips
@viceanime7685
Don't feel defeated, my friend. These plastics and bikes take a beating. I'm surprised the materials used from back then haven't become so brittle, they crack just from looking at them at this point. It's really nice we still have the aftermarket option. ##savesportquads
Thanks for this video. How did you fix the crack on the front?
Thanks for watching. I used a plastic welder. I do have a video on my channel where I show how I repaired the massive fender crack.
great video will try💪
Thanks for watching. It is a process but doesn't cost much. I hope you have the same success with yours.
Do you think decals will stick to these plastics well? In the process now but I don’t want to waste the decals if they won’t stick to restored plastic
After the process, I cleaned the area where the decals were going to go with some auto paint prep cleaner or like a windex without alcohol. Then, I applied the decals. Mine are still holding up just fine, and they're cheap replica decals. I hope your works out, too. Thanks for watching.
If i use one type of grit and sand it with water i dont want to sand it and it look worse than it was
I don't know the condition of your plastics. You can start with a higher grit in a small area around where maybe you boot is to see how it's going to go. I understand being cautious, but wet sanding plastic is not like when wet sanding a painted item. I hope things work out for what you're looking for. Thank you for reaching out.
Also the sanding is to clean and smooth out the roughness. The heat brings out the gloss. Throughout the steps they'll look cleaner, smoother and dull. Then, brighten back out with heat. Then I toss on the shine protectant to really brighten her up and help condition the plastics too
My bike looks good
Yes, yes, your bike does. 😆 happy to build it for you.
Heat is a temporary fix it’s gonna be back faded in a month or two.
The red I was thinking the same after a ride, but even after a wash and a recoat of the shine restorer seemed to bring it right back. I haven't tried on all red or black plastics and those, I'm not sure yet. Thanks for sharing your input and watching the video.
I see a lot of comments about how heat only works for a short time. I can see if you are only using heat, but if you sand off the top layers and get down to into the plastic, why would it not maintain the shine at least as long as it did the first time?
Also, what if you sand it down, use heat to make it shine, and then apply as plastic adhesion promoter and about 5 layers of clear coat on top? Would that outer clear coat protect the shine?
I’m asking because I am considering doing this on the plastics of a red 1985 Honda ATC 110.
@@coachwilson954 I would think clear coat on the plastic is a bad idea because it doesn’t have flex. And the clear will just crack. So it would shine but be cracked.
@@NOURSEPOWER so 7 months later how is it holding up?
@@TheH-Dfamily good point!
That only works for a short time
Def not comparing to new oem or even new aftermarket plastics. It's just a budget friendly way to take the bike from looking old & tired to clean & way more attractive. Thank you for watching. I'm going to run her hard and will at some point do an honest follow-up.
I see a lot of comments about how heat only works for a short time. I can see if you are only using heat, but if you sand off the top layers and get down to into the plastic, why would it not maintain the shine at least as long as it did the first time?
Also, what if you sand it down, use heat to make it shine, and then apply as plastic adhesion promoter and about 5 layers of clear coat on top? Would that outer clear coat protect the shine?
I’m asking because I am considering doing this on the plastics of a red 1985 Honda ATC 110.
“Restore atv plastics!”
After realizing the brighter colors don’t work.
“oh it’s an Atv for the woods” bruh what? Smh
The gray and red both came out clean and bright for 1987 plastics. I wasn't going into a deeper buffing process with an atv that would be ridden on the trails again. Thanks for watching.