HOW TO: 4x4 VACUUM SYSTEM SUPER SELECT FIX REPAIR 4X4 MITSUBISHI PAJERO MONTERO DELICA SHOGUN L200
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ย. 2024
- Fixing electrical connectors at the Super-Select 4WD vacuum solenoids. Flashing green lights. Certainly applies to any Mitsubishi or most any 4x4 with vacuum operated engaging system. I hope this video helps with a repair.
FREE COOKIE: DIFFICULT TO FIND INFORMATION...the vacuum hoses for turbo and Super-Select system size is 3.5mm--but I used 3mm for a tight fit.
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I just realized that my pajero IO vacuum solenoid hoses are hanging and not connected . the green light has been blinking for long time now. Can you help me on when the hoses connect on the 4g94 engine?
1. I changed the ATF temp sensor. The blinking neutral light has disappeared.
2. But there higher gears 3 and 4 are delaying to engage.
3. "Jecking" hard hitting when you engage drive . Or reverse. Dont mind my English
Sorry...only took me 6 months! LOL, but here is a video on the Super-Select system. th-cam.com/video/464nQZRAYL4/w-d-xo.html
Hi, my dad (dutch, but living offgrid in Zambia) has a Pajero V78W, 4M41 (2001). He has the service manual, but we don't seem to find a diagram of the vacuum system. All help welcome!
Did you see this video? th-cam.com/video/464nQZRAYL4/w-d-xo.html
Thanks@@offgridislandfamily
Hello! Great video, thank you!
Have the Pajero classic with super select. The 2h to 4h works when stationary but on the move it makes a grinding noise when i try to engane, so i always come back to 2h. Any idea what that could be? Can´t find the answer anywhere.
Well, first guess would most logically be a vacuum leak somewhere that is not fully disengaging the front axles. I spend lots of time fixing my vacuum system. In the end, I simply installed locking hubs and never worried about it again. Furthermore, this will extend the life of your CV joints and reduce fuel consumption in the process.
Hey, can you please tell me where you found those connectors? I'd really appreciate it!
YES! I just went to a generic auto parts store and found them on a rack in the electrical section. They are extremely common and generic T plugs. Thanks for the question...PLEASE subscribe! ;-)
Good editing! 🥰
do you have a video of error code reading with the paper clip trick on a mk 2.8 TD 1996 having trouble with' i had the pump seal done it was running great its been stood a while but that should be an issue its stalling and now puffing black smoke someone said on the pajero forums that it will be the crank sensor I fitted a second hand one and its still the same then i read that if the alternators not putting enough power to the EDC pump it can cause this it did need one so replaced that and it's still doing the same could you shed any light on this problem please kind regards
I've taken some time to respond, as I'm pretty confused by this issue description. First, the very reason I wanted the 4m40, it because it's the last Mitsubishi diesel that is computer-FREE.No 'error codes' for 4m40. WHAT MODEL do you have? I just replaced my crankshaft pulley and there is NO sensor anywhere near it. The only thing that I could imagine to create stalling is either the fuel pump is not supplying enough fuel (tune it as I showed in my video) or the turbo is failing? EDC PUMP? Please find my Instagram under same name: MitsubishiTurboTuner. Please post good photos of your vehicle, engine compartment and this 'EDC pump' if possible. I'll be happy to troubleshoot this with you. Cheers!
th-cam.com/video/n3i2_akwAiI/w-d-xo.html
that is one of the many electrical faults pajeros have either the conectors melt or the cabels...
my pajero melted the cables.
Ironically, the Japanese are reported to be a bit good with electronics. Yes...It's strange. My entire electrical system is always burning hot, which is why I've had the fire extinguisher on the dash since buying nearly two years ago.
Thank you for the video, Im having the same issue and this is a good place to start, it came super handy
TERRIFIC to hear! How did things turn out?
Hello there, wonderful video and very detailed. thanks
Thank you very much for that.
Excellent video and I should check some of the plugs on my Galloper.
If you're 4WD is working normally and no flashing lights on the dash for the system, you're probably good for now. ;-)
bro mechs disconnected all vacuum lines, i needed to pull down the whole diff. problem now is he forget how where to put the right hose. can you guide me on this?
Hehehe...ok. Do you have Instagram? If you do, find me there and I will share photos and descriptions. ;-) After installing the manual hubs, I don't worry about the vacuum system, but it's still connected properly. ;-)
Sorry i dont have ig just fb bro
@@family-car Well, if you want to post your phone number for WhatsApp, then I will contact you there and you can delete your number here after?
my pajero's 4wwd indicator wont turn but but may 4x4 engages what should i do?
You mean the 4x4 system works, but the lights don't indicate on the gauge cluster?
@@offgridislandfamily yes i replaced the bulbs already but still no light
@@matchaaagaming6704 Then it could be the very flimsy plastic circuit board on the back...how does your look? Burned, ripped, torn, damaged? If not the circuit board or light bulbs, then it would be sensors on the 4wd system itself.
Did it work?
th-cam.com/video/464nQZRAYL4/w-d-xo.html
Did it work?
Yes Sir...it DID. ;-) However, I'm about 98% sure to weld the front diff, so I'll probably just remove the front vacuum system entirely. No need. The oil Catch Can should be here in a couple days...get ready for a smokin' video! LOL! ;-)
How about disengaging low 4x4 when i go to 2 gear only hi 4x4 is functioning. very well apriciated if you could answer this problem.
Sounds like your vacuum system has a leak or the solenoids are not functioning correctly. The solenoids and vacuum system only engages and disengages the front axles, which is why I installed manual locking hubs. The actual front drive system and Hi / Low are all mechanically operated with the lever inside the vehicle. This is why I installed manual locking hubs. ALWAYS WORKS, reduced wear on front axle CV joints and reduced fuel usage. I posted the factory manual schematics for the vacuum system under my 'Community Section'. Let me know how it goes.
Link the replacement connectors please
I just went to an auto parts store and bought two generic plugs that looked the part.
I have just ordered the solenoid valves and the clutch actuator for my vehicle , it's a Mitsubishi pickup L200 2005 Warrior , I bought it 3 years ago , but it came with a broken front wheel differential clutch actuator and the solenoid valves are missing ! , so I have to build the all system from scratch , can you help me ?
I prefer the styling on your model more than the very rounded later version. Still the 4D56 I think? Unless you have limited-slip front diff, I'm pretty sure there is no 'clutch' in the diff...only the vacuum actuator. I would be happy to assist as much as possible. As I responded to your other post, I'll probably remove the entire vacuum system after welding the front diff. No need for the vacuum operation after that.
@@offgridislandfamily Hi , yes it is the best! .
And yes it's still 4D56 .
And yes only the vacuum actuator , but it's broken so I have to replace it with a new one beside a new solenoid valves , but I have no idea how to connect that small pipes with the solenoid valves to the vacuum actuator .
Appreciate the help :)
@@khangarkarrar7800 I see. ALL of your vacuum stuff was disconnected/broken? So, you need from the upper vacuum solenoid system, down to the metal tubes on the frame rail, then from these tubes down to the mechanical parts they actuate underneath?
@@offgridislandfamily yes the all thing
@@khangarkarrar7800 Maybe I can send you annotated photos showing where each side of each solenoid goes to what component underneath. Why not just weld the diff and install manual hubs? FAR easier and effective for offroad.
hey there any way you can guide me on how to route the vacuum hoses the correct way? the previous owner did not route them properly
YEP: Here's the video exactly on that! ;-) CHEERS
th-cam.com/video/464nQZRAYL4/w-d-xo.html
@@offgridislandfamily thank you
@@anthonyx187 MOST welcome. ;-)
If you swap electrical connectors to the opposite solenoid....will the drive modes when shifting the lever from rear to front change to:
4hi, 2hi, 2hi, 2lo ?
As far as I know, the solenoid and vacuum system only engages and disengages the front axles, which is why I installed manual locking hubs. The actual front drive system and Hi / Low are all mechanically operated with the lever inside the vehicle. This is why I installed manual locking hubs. ALWAYS WORKS, reduced wear on front axle CV joints and reduced fuel usage.
hey mate what do you call those connections? do you have a link for them off amazon ?
Do you mean the silicone tubing or the solenoid actuators? Cheers!
@@offgridislandfamily the plugs that you changed that plug into the solenoids.. thanks mate
@@benjarvie1072 Ahh...the white plastic plugs. These are very commonly used connectors. I just went to a local motorcycle shop and bought these, pulled out the terminals with wires and clipped my factory wires in place. I'm SURE you can also find them on Shopee or a similar online store. Let me know how it goes...
I see 😂 Think you need to get aircon fitted to the engine bay 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
And then aircon for the aircon system! LOL! ;-)
Hi the reason the plastic connectors failed is probably due to poor electrical resistive connection at crimp joint causing heat.
Thanks for the feedback. However, nearly all the plastic and rubber in the engine compartment is in exactly the same temperature. You can see the same 'crumbling plastic' in my tachometer repair video. Here in the Philippines (today 34 degrees), the under-hood temperatures are always hot. After 20 years of heat cycles...well...you get where I'm going.